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Статті в журналах з теми "Wave breaking"

Автор: Grafiati

Опубліковано: 4 червня 2021

Оновлено: 25 липня 2025

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1

Bian, Hongwei, Zhili Zou, and Sheng Yan. "A Computation Model for Coast Wave Motions with Multiple Breakings." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12, no. 6 (2024): 860. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse12060860.

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This paper presents a computational model for coast wave motions with multiple wave breakings. In the Boussinesq model, the wave breaking judgment method is combined with the wave recovery judgment condition, which stops the wave breaking process when triggered. The energy dissipation of wave breaking is corrected, and the dissipation of wave energy is maintained at about 10% during the wave recovery stage, so that the dissipation caused by the residual turbulent motion of wave breaking and the increase in wave height caused by the shallowing of waves due to the water bottom slope are offset.

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2

Hwang, Paul A., Delun Xu, and Jin Wu. "Breaking of wind-generated waves: measurements and characteristics." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 202 (May 1989): 177–200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s002211208900114x.

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A method of using local wave properties to provide a detailed description of breakings in a random wave field is developed. These properties, derived through the Hilbert transform, include the angular frequency, phase velocity, and surface-velocity components. The breaking characteristics are presented, including the probability of breaking, its time- and lengthscales, its intensity, and the phase of its inception. The time- and lengthscales, of breaking events were found to be linearly proportional to the corresponding scales of underlying waves, and to indicate that the breaking region is ge

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3

Bulanov, S. V., F. Pegoraro, A. M. Pukhov, and A. S. Sakharov. "Transverse-Wake Wave Breaking." Physical Review Letters 78, no. 22 (1997): 4205–8. http://dx.doi.org/10.1103/physrevlett.78.4205.

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4

Li, Changfei, Fuping Gao, and Lijing Yang. "Breaking-Wave Induced Transient Pore Pressure in a Sandy Seabed: Flume Modeling and Observations." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, no. 2 (2021): 160. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9020160.

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Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused on non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced pore pressure response in a sandy seabed was physically simulated with a large wave flume. The breaking-wave was generated by superimposing a series of longer waves onto the foregoing shorter waves at a specified location. Water surface elevations and the corresponding pore pressure in the process of wave breaking were measured simultaneously at three typical locations, i.e., at the rear, just at

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5

McAllister, M. L., S. Draycott, R. Calvert, T. Davey, F. Dias, and T. S. van den Bremer. "Three-dimensional wave breaking." Nature 633, no. 8030 (2024): 601–7. http://dx.doi.org/10.1038/s41586-024-07886-z.

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AbstractAlthough a ubiquitous natural phenomenon, the onset and subsequent process of surface wave breaking are not fully understood. Breaking affects how steep waves become and drives air–sea exchanges1. Most seminal and state-of-the-art research on breaking is underpinned by the assumption of two-dimensionality, although ocean waves are three dimensional. We present experimental results that assess how three-dimensionality affects breaking, without putting limits on the direction of travel of the waves. We show that the breaking-onset steepness of the most directionally spread case is double

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6

Tejerina-Risso, J., and P. Le Gal. "Around the Cusp Singularity and the Breaking of Waves." Leonardo 47, no. 1 (2014): 80–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.1162/leon_a_00687.

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WAVES is an “Art-Science” project on water surface waves. The authors aim to visualize the behaviour of water waves during their evolution: generation, focusing and breaking. Relying on the general property of waves to focus when properly generated or reflected, the authors use a parabolically shaped wave maker to focus water waves in a region of the water surface called the Huygens cusp in optics and then record these breakings using a fast video camera. A novel and spectacular vision of wave breakings is obtained when playing at slow speed.

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7

Knobler, Sagi, Ewelina Winiarska, Alexander Babanin, and Dan Liberzon. "Wave breaking probabilities under wind forcing in open sea and laboratory." Physics of Fluids 34, no. 3 (2022): 032122. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/5.0084276.

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Water wave breaking represents one of the most arduous problems in fluid mechanics. Understanding the process of wave breaking and developing an ability to quantify the associated energy losses and redistribution are critical across a wide range of coastal oceanic applications, maritime navigation, and climate and hydrodynamic research. Naturally, waves become steeper toward the inception of breaking; however, there is still a lack of unanimity regarding the relationship between breaking probability statistics and wave steepness. Here, we present a detailed investigation of breaking vs non-bre

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8

Seyama, Akira, and Akira Kimura. "THE MEASURED PROPERTIES OF IRREGULAR WAVE BREAKING AND WAVE HEIGHT CHANGE AFTER BREAKING ON THE SLOPE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 29. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.29.

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Wave height change of the zero-down-cross waves on uniform slopes were examined experimentally. The properties of shoaling, breaking and decay after breaking for a total of about 4,000 irregular waves of the Pierson-Moskowitz type on 4 different slopes (1/10, 1/20, 1/30 and 1/50) were investigated. The shoaling property of the zero-down-cross waves can be approximated by the linear wave theory. However, the properties of breaking and decay after breaking differ considerably from those for periodic waves. The wave height water depth ratio (H/d) at the breaking point for the zero-down-cross wave

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9

You, Tao, Li Ping Zhao, Zheng Xiao, Lun Chao Huang, and Xiao Rui Han. "Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore." Applied Mechanics and Materials 858 (November 2016): 354–58. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.858.354.

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Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height d

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10

Kishi, Tsutomu. "TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF A LONG WAVE OF FINITE HEIGHT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (2011): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.5.

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On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation. In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief con

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11

Dao, M. H., H. Xu, E. S. Chan, and P. Tkalich. "Modelling of tsunami wave run-up, breaking and impact on vertical wall by SPH method." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Discussions 1, no. 3 (2013): 2831–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhessd-1-2831-2013.

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Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modeling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on vertical wall using two methods, the enhanced Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic

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12

Dao, M. H., H. Xu, E. S. Chan, and P. Tkalich. "Modelling of tsunami-like wave run-up, breaking and impact on a vertical wall by SPH method." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 13, no. 12 (2013): 3457–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-13-3457-2013.

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Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modelling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a vertical wall using two methods, an enhanced smoothed particle hydrodynam

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13

Ermakov, Stanislav, Vladimir Dobrokhotov, Irina Sergievskaya, and Ivan Kapustin. "Suppression of Wind Ripples and Microwave Backscattering Due to Turbulence Generated by Breaking Surface Waves." Remote Sensing 12, no. 21 (2020): 3618. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs12213618.

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The role of wave breaking in microwave backscattering from the sea surface is a problem of great importance for the development of theories and methods on ocean remote sensing, in particular for oil spill remote sensing. Recently it has been shown that microwave radar return is determined by both Bragg and non-Bragg (non-polarized) scattering mechanisms and some evidence has been given that the latter is associated with wave breaking, in particular, with strong breaking such as spilling or plunging. However, our understanding of mechanisms of the action of strong wave breaking on small-scale w

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14

Zou, Xuefeng, Liangsheng Zhu, and Jun Zhao. "Numerical Simulations of Non-Breaking, Breaking and Broken Wave Interaction with Emerged Vegetation Using Navier-Stokes Equations." Water 11, no. 12 (2019): 2561. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/w11122561.

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Coastal plants can significantly dissipate water wave energy and services as a part of shoreline protection. Using plants as a natural buffer from wave impacts remains an attractive possibility. In this paper, we present a numerical investigation on the effects of the emerged vegetation on non-breaking, breaking and broken wave propagation through vegetation over flat and sloping beds using the Reynolds-average Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a volume of fluid (VOF) surface capturing method. The multiphase two-equation k-ω SST turbulence model is adopted to simulate wave breaking a

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15

JIANG, LEI, MARC PERLIN, and WILLIAM W. SCHULTZ. "Period tripling and energy dissipation of breaking standing waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 369 (August 25, 1998): 273–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112098001785.

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We examine the dynamics of two-dimensional steep and breaking standing waves generated by Faraday-wave resonance. Jiang et al. (1996) found a steep wave with a double-peaked crest in experiments and a sharp-crested steep wave in computations. Both waveforms are strongly asymmetric in time and feature large superharmonics. We show experimentally that increasing the forcing amplitude further leads to breaking waves in three recurrent modes (period tripling): sharp crest with breaking, dimpled or flat crest with breaking, and round crest without breaking. Interesting steep waveforms and period-tr

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16

Banner, Michael L. "The influence of wave breaking on the surface pressure distribution in wind—wave interactions." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 211 (February 1990): 463–95. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112090001653.

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In reviewing the current status of our understanding of the mechanisms underlying wind-wave generation, it is apparent that existing theories and models are not applicable to situations where the sea surface is disturbed by breaking waves, and that the available experimental data on this question are sparse. In this context, this paper presents the results of a detailed study of the effects of wave breaking on the aerodynamic surface pressure distribution and consequent wave-coherent momentum flux, as well as its influence on the total wind stress.Two complementary experimental configurations

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17

Wang, David W., and Hemantha W. Wijesekera. "Observations of Breaking Waves and Energy Dissipation in Modulated Wave Groups." Journal of Physical Oceanography 48, no. 12 (2018): 2937–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-17-0224.1.

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AbstractIt has been recognized that modulated wave groups trigger wave breaking and generate energy dissipation events on the ocean surface. Quantitative examination of wave-breaking events and associated turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rates within a modulated wave group in the open ocean is not a trivial task. To address this challenging topic, a set of laboratory experiments was carried out in an outdoor facility, the Oil and Hazardous Material Simulated Environment Test Tank (203 m long, 20 m wide, 3.5 m deep). TKE dissipation rates at multiple depths were estimated directly whi

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18

Kukulka, Tobias, Tetsu Hara, and Stephen E. Belcher. "A Model of the Air–Sea Momentum Flux and Breaking-Wave Distribution for Strongly Forced Wind Waves." Journal of Physical Oceanography 37, no. 7 (2007): 1811–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo3084.1.

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Abstract Under high-wind conditions, breaking surface waves likely play an important role in the air–sea momentum flux. A coupled wind–wave model is developed based on the assumption that in the equilibrium range of surface wave spectra the wind stress is dominated by the form drag of breaking waves. By conserving both momentum and energy in the air and also imposing the wave energy balance, coupled equations are derived governing the turbulent stress, wind speed, and the breaking-wave distribution (total breaking crest length per unit surface area as a function of wavenumber). It is assumed t

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19

Kuznetsov, Sergey, Yana Saprykina, and Valentina Volkova. "DEPENDENCIES OF BREAKING TYPE, BREAKING CRITERIA AND ENERGY DISSIPATION ON AMPLITUDE-PHASE FREQUENCY STRUCTURE OF WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 72. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.papers.72.

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Type of wave breaking - plunging or spilling - depends on symmetry of waves. The spilling waves are asymmetric against horizontal axis and are practically symmetric against vertical axis so the phase shift between first and second nonlinear harmonics (or biphase) is close to zero. The plunging breaking waves have larger asymmetry against vertical axis, (biphase is close to -pi/2), and near symmetric on horizontal axis (close to saw-toothed form). Non-linear wave transformation influences on depth-induced wave breaking. Breaking index depends on relation of wave energy in frequency range of sec

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20

Pujianiki, Ni Nyoman. "Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves in a Wave Group by SPH." Applied Mechanics and Materials 776 (July 2015): 151–56. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.776.151.

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Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (SPH) numerical model is used to investigate wave group effects at breaking and after breaking by comparing individual waves in a group with equivalent regular waves. Regular wave break almost at the same position and with the same wave height. Meanwhile in a wave group, the wave breaks in the variant positions and with variant wave heights. These phenomena cause the breaking point to be more scattered in a wave group rather than in regular waves. Return flow due to the breaking of wave groups appears more significant and is extended to the full depth in the surf

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21

Rhee, Shin Hyung, and Fred Stern. "RANS Model for Spilling Breaking Waves." Journal of Fluids Engineering 124, no. 2 (2002): 424–32. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.1467078.

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A RANS model for spilling breaking waves is developed, which can be implemented with ship hydrodynamics RANS CFD codes. The model is based on the Cointe & Tulin theory of steady breakers. The breaker cross section is assumed triangular with maximum height determined by the theoretical/experimental linear relationship with following wave height. Pressure and velocity boundary conditions are imposed on the dividing streamline between the breaker and underlying flow based on the hydrostatic and mixing layer models. An iterative solution procedure provides a unique solution for specified break

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22

Liu, Shan, and Zhenyu Liu. "Influence of Currents on the Breaking Wave Forces Acting on Monopiles over an Impermeable Slope." Sustainability 15, no. 1 (2022): 129. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/su15010129.

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It is known that the wave breaking process is significantly affected by a current, but little attention has been paid to the effect of wave–current interaction on the breaking wave forces acting on a monopile. This study presented a total of 88 flume tests, among which solitary and regular breaking waves were generated with a following current. The waves propagated over an impermeable slope and induced impulsive loads on a vertical monopile. The moments on the monopile were measured utilizing a high-precision load cell, and the effect of current velocities on the peak moment was analyzed. Test

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23

Deike, Luc, Stephane Popinet, and W. Kendall Melville. "Capillary effects on wave breaking." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 769 (March 25, 2015): 541–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2015.103.

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We investigate the influence of capillary effects on wave breaking through direct numerical simulations of the Navier–Stokes equations for a two-phase air–water flow. A parametric study in terms of the Bond number, $\mathit{Bo}$, and the initial wave steepness, ${\it\epsilon}$, is performed at a relatively high Reynolds number. The onset of wave breaking as a function of these two parameters is determined and a phase diagram in terms of $({\it\epsilon},\mathit{Bo})$ is presented that distinguishes between non-breaking gravity waves, parasitic capillaries on a gravity wave, spilling breakers an

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24

Amron. "NOISE CHARACTERISTICS OF SEA WAVES BASED ON ITS HEIGHT, PERIOD AND BREAKING WAVES." JOURNAL ONLINE OF PHYSICS 5, no. 2 (2020): 28–34. http://dx.doi.org/10.22437/jop.v5i2.9509.

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ABSTRACT Wave sound is one of the sources of ambient noise in the waters which causes the role of sound as a transmission medium of information and communication becomes disrupted. The characteristics of wave noise can be influenced by their parameters, such as height and period of the waves and breaking waves. The study aimed to determine the characteristics of noise (intensity, frequency, pulse duration and interval duration) of waves based on its height, periods and breaking waves. Data acquisition for sound wave is obtained by hydrophones, visual of wave from CCTV cameras, and wave p

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25

Wei, Zhangping, and Robert A. Dalrymple. "SPH MODELING OF VORTICITY GENERATION BY SHORT-CRESTED WAVE BREAKING." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 1. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.waves.1.

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This study investigates vorticity generation by short-crested wave breaking by using the mesh-free Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics model, GPUSPH. The short-crested waves are created by generating intersecting wave trains in a numerical wave basin with a beach. The capability of GPUSPH to simulate short-crested waves is first validated by laboratory measurements. Then we examine short-crested wave breaking with two incident wave heights H = 0.2 m and 0.3 m. The larger incident wave breaks at the toe of the planar beach, while the smaller incident wave breaks above the planar beach. The breaking

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26

Schwendeman, Michael S., and Jim Thomson. "Sharp-Crested Breaking Surface Waves Observed from a Ship-Based Stereo Video System." Journal of Physical Oceanography 47, no. 4 (2017): 775–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-16-0187.1.

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AbstractA new ship-based stereo video system is used to observe breaking ocean waves (i.e., whitecaps) as three-dimensional surfaces evolving in time. First, the stereo video measurements of all waves (breaking and nonbreaking) are shown to compare well with statistical parameters from traditional buoy measurements. Next, the breaking waves are detected based on the presence of whitecap foam, and the geometry of these waves is investigated. The stereo measurements show that the whitecaps are characterized by local extremes of surface slope, though the larger-scale, crest-to-trough steepness of

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27

LI, YING, and FREDRIC RAICHLEN. "Non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 456 (April 9, 2002): 295–318. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112001007625.

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The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank was investigated experimentally and numerically. If only the general characteristics of the run-up process and the maximum run-up are of interest, for the case of a breaking wave the post-breaking condition can be simplified and represented as a propagating bore. A numerical model using this bore structure to treat the process of wave breaking and subsequent shoreward propagation was developed. The nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) were solved using the weighted essent

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28

Aggarwal, Ankit, Mayilvahanan Alagan Chella, Arun Kamath, and Hans Bihs. "NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION OF BREAKING IRREGULAR WAVES OVER A SUBMERGED BAR WITH CFD." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 43. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.43.

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The study of breaking irregular waves is of great practical interest, because of the waves found in the nature. Regular waves are seldom found in the field. Irregular waves can be viewed as the superposition of a number of regular waves (wave components) with the different frequencies and the amplitudes. The breaking process for irregular waves is more complex as compared to breaking regular waves. The energy transfer between the individual wave components of different frequencies also takes place during the breaking process. Due to this, the spectral characteristics of the incident wave spect

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29

Babanin, Alexander V., Michael L. Banner, Ian R. Young, and Mark A. Donelan. "Wave-Follower Field Measurements of the Wind-Input Spectral Function. Part III: Parameterization of the Wind-Input Enhancement due to Wave Breaking." Journal of Physical Oceanography 37, no. 11 (2007): 2764–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2007jpo3757.1.

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Abstract This is the third in a series of papers describing wave-follower observations of the aerodynamic coupling between wind and waves on a large shallow lake during the Australian Shallow Water Experiment (AUSWEX). It focuses on the long-standing problem of the aerodynamic consequences of wave breaking on the wind–wave coupling. Direct field measurements are reported of the influence of wave breaking on the wave-induced pressure in the airflow over water waves, and hence the energy flux to the waves. The level of forcing, measured by the ratio of wind speed to the speed of the dominant (sp

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30

Doyle, James D., and Carolyn A. Reynolds. "Implications of Regime Transitions for Mountain-Wave-Breaking Predictability." Monthly Weather Review 136, no. 12 (2008): 5211–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2008mwr2554.1.

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Abstract A suite of high-resolution two-dimensional ensemble simulations are used to investigate the predictability of mountain waves, wave breaking, and downslope windstorms. For relatively low hills and mountains, perturbation growth is weak and ensemble spread is small. Gravity waves and wave breaking associated with higher mountains exhibit rapid perturbation growth and large ensemble variance. Near the regime boundary between mountain waves and wave breaking, a bimodal response is apparent with large ensemble variance. Several ensemble members exhibit a trapped wave response and others re

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31

Vollestad, P., A. A. Ayati, and A. Jensen. "Experimental investigation of intermittent airflow separation and microscale wave breaking in wavy two-phase pipe flow." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 878 (September 18, 2019): 796–819. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2019.660.

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We perform an experimental analysis of co-current, stratified wavy pipe flow, with the aim of investigating the effect of small scale wave breaking (microscale breaking) on the airflow. Particle image velocimetry is applied simultaneously in the gas and liquid phases. Active wave breaking is identified by high levels of vorticity on the leeward side of individual waves, and the statistics of the airflow above breaking and non-breaking waves are extracted from the gas-phase velocity fields. Keeping the liquid superficial velocity constant ($U_{sl}=0.1~\text{m}~\text{s}^{-1}$), we consider two e

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32

Zappa, Christopher J., Michael L. Banner, Russel P. Morison, and Sophia E. Brumer. "On the Variation of the Effective Breaking Strength in Oceanic Sea States." Journal of Physical Oceanography 46, no. 7 (2016): 2049–61. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-15-0227.1.

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AbstractA spectral framework for quantifying the geometric/kinematic and dynamic/energetic properties of breaking ocean waves was proposed by Phillips in 1985. Phillips assumed a constant breaking strength coefficient to link the kinematic/geometric breaking crest properties to the associated excess energy and momentum fluxes from the waves to the upper ocean. However, a scale-dependent (spectral) breaking strength coefficient is needed, but is unavailable from measurements. In this paper, the feasibility of a parametric mean effective breaking strength coefficient valid for a wide range of se

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33

Liu, Zhenyu, Zhen Guo, Yuzhe Dou, and Fanyu Zeng. "Characteristics of Breaking Wave Forces on Piles over a Permeable Seabed." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, no. 5 (2021): 520. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9050520.

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Most offshore wind turbines are installed in shallow water and exposed to breaking waves. Previous numerical studies focusing on breaking wave forces generally ignored the seabed permeability. In this paper, a numerical model based on Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations (VARANS) is employed to reveal the process of a solitary wave interacting with a rigid pile over a permeable slope. Through applying the Forchheimer saturated drag equation, effects of seabed permeability on fluid motions are simulated. The reliability of the present model is verified by comparisons betwee

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34

Riedel, Hans Peter, and Anthony Paul Byrne. "RANDOM BREAKING WAVES HORIZONTAL SEABED." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 68. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.68.

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According to wave theories the depth limited wave height over a horizontal seabed has a wave height to water depth ratio (H/d) of about 0.8. Flume experiments with monochromatic waves over a horizontal seabed have failed to produce H/d ratios greater than 0.55. However designers still tend to use H/d 0.8 for their design waves. Experiments have been carried out using random wave trains in the flume over a horizontal seabed. These experiments have shown that the limiting H/d ratio of 0.55 applies equally well to random waves.

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35

Chalikov, Dmitry, and Alexander V. Babanin. "Simulation of Wave Breaking in One-Dimensional Spectral Environment." Journal of Physical Oceanography 42, no. 11 (2012): 1745–61. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-11-0128.1.

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Abstract Results of numerical investigations, based on full dynamic equations, are presented for wave breaking in a one-dimensional environment with a wave spectrum. The breaking is defined as a process of irreversible collapse of an individual wave in physical space, and the incipient breaker is a wave that reached a dynamic condition of the limiting stability where the collapse has not started yet but is inevitable. The main attention is paid to documenting the evolution of different wave characteristics before the breaking commences. It is shown that the breaking is a localized process that

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36

Barthelemy, X., M. L. Banner, W. L. Peirson, F. Fedele, M. Allis, and F. Dias. "On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 841 (February 23, 2018): 463–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93.

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We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. Based on a fully nonlinear 3D boundary element model, our numerical simulations investigate geometric, kinematic and energetic differences between maximally tall non-breaking waves and marginally breaking waves in focusing wave groups. Our study focuses initially on unidirectional domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth (depth to wavelength ratio from 1 to 0.2). Maximally tall non-breaking (maximally recurrent)

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37

HULT, ERIN L., CARY D. TROY, and JEFFREY R. KOSEFF. "The breaking of interfacial waves at a submerged bathymetric ridge." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 637 (September 17, 2009): 45–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112009008040.

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The breaking of periodic progressive two-layer interfacial waves at a Gaussian ridge is investigated through laboratory experiments. Length scales of the incident wave and topography are used to parameterize when and how breaking occurs. Qualitative observations suggest both shear and convection play a role in the instability of waves breaking at the ridge. Simultaneous particle image velocimetry (PIV) and planar laser-induced fluorescence (PLIF) measurements are used to calculate high resolution, two-dimensional velocity and density fields from which the local gradient Richardson number Rig i

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38

Kukulka, Tobias, and Tetsu Hara. "The Effect of Breaking Waves on a Coupled Model of Wind and Ocean Surface Waves. Part II: Growing Seas." Journal of Physical Oceanography 38, no. 10 (2008): 2164–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2008jpo3962.1.

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Abstract This is the second part of a two-part investigation of a coupled wind and wave model that includes the enhanced form drag of breaking waves. The model is based on the wave energy balance and the conservation of air-side momentum and energy. In Part I, coupled nonlinear advance–delay differential equations were derived, which govern the wave height spectrum, the distribution of breaking waves, and vertical air side profiles of the turbulent stress and wind speed. Numeric solutions were determined for mature seas. Here, numeric solutions for a wide range of wind and wave conditions are

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39

Hu, Zhengyu, and Yuzhu Li. "EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF THE BREAKING WAVE IMPACT ON RIGID AND ELASTIC PLATES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 38 (May 29, 2025): 11. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v38.structures.11.

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Coastal and offshore deformable structures such as flexible breakwaters, wave energy converters, and Floating Production Storage and Offloading (FPSO) hulls are vulnerable to ocean hydrodynamic loads, as structural deformation may happen in these interactions. The structural deformation can lead to decreased wave reflection, wave loading, and runup on the steep-fronted coastal structures in non-breaking waves (Hu et al., 2023; Hu and Li, 2023a). When flexible structures face breaking waves, their structural integrity is challenged. Tremendous impact pressure with a short duration can be produc

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40

Kjeldsen, Soren Peter, Alf Torum, and Robert G. Dean. "WAVE FORCES ON VERTICAL PILES CAUSED BY 2- AND 3-DIMENSIONAL BREAKING WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 142. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.142.

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The present study deals with analysis of results from a new experiment in which local wave forces on a vertical pile penetrating the free surface were measured, both in transient breaking waves and in 2- and 3-dimensional irregular seas, regular waves, and waves and uniform currents superposed. The performance of the entire experimental programme showed that extreme wave load intensities are associated with transient 2- or 3-dimensional breaking waves, of relatively short wave periods, and not with the highest waves in the simulated sea states. The total integrated in-line force and the total

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41

Pan, Yun, Yong Zhou Cheng, Qing Feng Li, and Wen Cheng Wang. "Experimental Study on Changes of Sloping Sandy Bed Profile under Breaking Waves." Applied Mechanics and Materials 212-213 (October 2012): 163–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.212-213.163.

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The wave breaking forces can exacerbate sediment transport, and lead to erosion of the seabed, coastal deformation and destruction of coastal structures. The experiment is carried out in a wave flume with a 1:30 sloping sandy seabed. A wide range of measurements from the regular wave runs are reported, including time series of wave heights, changes of bed profile. The video records are analysed to measure the time development of the seabed form and the characteristics of the orbital motion of the sand in the wave breaking region. The location and wave height at wave breaking point is measured

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42

Hieu, Phung Dang, and Phan Ngoc Vinh. "A numerical model for simulation of near-shore waves and wave induced currents using the depth-averaged non-hydrostatic shallow water equations with an improvement of wave energy dissipation." Tạp chí Khoa học và Công nghệ biển 20, no. 2 (2020): 155–72. http://dx.doi.org/10.15625/1859-3097/20/2/15087.

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This study proposes a numerical model based on the depth-integrated non-hydrostatic shallow water equations with an improvement of wave breaking dissipation. Firstly, studies of parameter sensitivity were carried out using the proposed numerical model for simulation of wave breaking to understand the effects of the parameters of the breaking model on wave height distribution. The simulated results of wave height near the breaking point were very sensitive to the time duration parameter of wave breaking. The best value of the onset breaking parameter is around 0.3 for the non-hydrostatic shallo

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43

Pizzo, N. E., Luc Deike, and W. Kendall Melville. "Current generation by deep-water breaking waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 803 (August 22, 2016): 275–91. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2016.469.

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We examine the partitioning of the energy transferred to the water column by deep-water wave breaking; in this case between the turbulent and mean flow. It is found that more than 95 % of the energy lost by the wave field is dissipated in the first four wave periods after the breaking event. The remaining energy is in the coherent vortex generated by breaking. A scaling argument shows that the ratio between the energy in this breaking generated mean current and the total energy lost from the wave field to the water column due to breaking scales as $(hk)^{1/2}$, where $hk$ is the local slope at

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44

Woods, Bryan K., and Ronald B. Smith. "Short-Wave Signatures of Stratospheric Mountain Wave Breaking." Journal of the Atmospheric Sciences 68, no. 3 (2011): 635–56. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2010jas3634.1.

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Abstract Recent stratospheric mountain wave measurements over the Sierra Nevada indicate that downgoing secondary waves may be common or even ubiquitous in large wave events. Because of their short wavelengths, they may dominate the vertical velocity field near the tropopause, and they give a remote indicator of wave breaking farther aloft. Using a 2D numerical model, the authors have simulated the secondary wave generation process with qualitative agreement in the wave location, phase speed, wavelength (i.e., 10–20 km), and amplitude. A key to the analysis was the use of Morlet wavelet cross

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45

Chakrabarti, Subrata K. "Measurement and Analysis of Laboratory Generated Steep Waves." Journal of Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering 125, no. 1 (2003): 17–24. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.1556403.

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In many offshore locations, storm generated steep waves are common and the survival of offshore structures in their presence is an important design condition. The design environment in depth-limited waters often includes waves of breaking and near-breaking conditions, in which currents may be present. Experiments were carried out in a wave tank with simulated steep waves with and without steady in-line current in which the wave profiles and the corresponding kinematics were simultaneously measured. The waves included both regular and random waves and often approached the breaking wave height f

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46

Manasseh, Richard, Alexander V. Babanin, Cameron Forbes, Kate Rickards, Irena Bobevski, and Andrew Ooi. "Passive Acoustic Determination of Wave-Breaking Events and Their Severity across the Spectrum." Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 23, no. 4 (2006): 599–618. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jtech1853.1.

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Abstract A passive acoustic method of detecting breaking waves of different scales has been developed. The method also showed promise for measuring breaking severity. Sounds were measured by a subsurface hydrophone in various wind and wave states. A video record of the surface was made simultaneously. Individual sound pulses corresponding to the many individual bubble formations during wave-breaking events typically last only a few tens of milliseconds. Each time a sound-level threshold was exceeded, the acoustic signal was captured over a brief window typical of a bubble formation pulse, regi

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47

Schultz, William W., Jin Huh, and Owen M. Griffin. "Potential energy in steep and breaking waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 278 (November 10, 1994): 201–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112094003678.

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Анотація:

We find that the RMS wave height (square root of the potential energy) rather than peak-to-peak wave height is a better experimental and analytic criterion for determining when a regular, two-dimensional deep-water wave will break. A spectral algorithm for two-dimensional potential flow is developed and used to compare breaking onset criteria for energy input from (i) converging sidewalls, (ii) a submerged disturbance, and (iii) wave focusing. We also find that wave-breaking criteria (potential energy or the more classical peak-to-peak wave height) are a function of the rate of energy input. L

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48

Saoxian, Shen, Zhang Yang, and Andrew Cornett. "WAVE LOADS ASSESSMENT FOR SUBMERGED WATER INTAKE DESIGN." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 56. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.structures.56.

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Estimating wave-induced forces on water intake is challenging, particularly for large size intake (up to 15m in its cap diameter) subject to breaking waves in shallow water. The relationships between wave properties and wave loads are not well understood, and no simple methods are available to predict hydrodynamic loads on submerged intakes, particularly under breaking waves. This paper attempts to provide a method of assessing wave forces on water intake pipe and velocity cap using the Froude-Krylov formula, based on physical modeling test results for submerged intake under breaking waves.

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49

Kukulka, Tobias, and Tetsu Hara. "The Effect of Breaking Waves on a Coupled Model of Wind and Ocean Surface Waves. Part I: Mature Seas." Journal of Physical Oceanography 38, no. 10 (2008): 2145–63. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2008jpo3961.1.

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Анотація:

Abstract This is the first of a two-part investigation of a coupled wind and wave model that includes the enhanced form drag of breaking waves. In Part I here the model is developed and applied to mature seas. Part II explores the solutions in a wide range of wind and wave conditions, including growing seas. Breaking and nonbreaking waves induce air-side fluxes of momentum and energy above the air–sea interface. By balancing air-side momentum and energy and by conserving wave energy, coupled nonlinear advance–delay differential equations are derived, which govern simultaneously the wave and wi

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50

Delisi, Donald P., and Timothy J. Dunkerton. "Laboratory Observations of Gravity Wave, Critical Layer Flows Using Single and Double Wave Forcing." Applied Mechanics Reviews 47, no. 6S (1994): S113—S117. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.3124384.

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Laboratory measurements of gravity wave, critical layer flows are presented. The measurements are obtained in a salt-stratified annular tank, with a vertical shear profile. Internal gravity waves are generated at the floor of the tank and propagate vertically upward into the fluid. At a depth where the phase speed of the wave equals the mean flow speed, defined as a critical level, the waves break down, under the right forcing conditions, generating small scale turbulence. Two cases are presented. In the first case, the wave forcing is a single, monochromatic wave. In this case, the early wave

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