Статті в журналах з теми "Thin juice heater"

ABSTRACT Unheated spores of nonproteolytic Clostridium botulinumwere able to lead to growth in sterile deoxygenated turnip, spring green, helda bean, broccoli, or potato juice, although the probability of growth was low and the time to growth was longer than the time to growth in culture media. With all five vegetable juices tested, the probability of growth increased when spores were inoculated into the juice and then heated for 2 min in a water bath at 80°C. The probability of growth was greater in bean or broccoli juice than in culture media following 10 min of heat treatment in these media. Growth was prevented by heat treatment of spores in vegetable juices or culture media at 80°C for 100 min. We show for the first time that adding heat-treated vegetable juice to culture media can increase the number of heat-damaged spores of C. botulinum that can lead to colony formation.

Ohmic heating is an alternative fast-heating method especially for liquid foods. In this study, pomegranate juice samples, prepared by two different extraction methods, were heated ohmically by matching the same thermal history, with that of the conventional method. The ohmic heating application was conducted by changing the voltage gradient (10—40 V/cm) at 50 Hz. The samples were heated from 20 ° C to 90°C and held at 90 °C for different treatment times (0, 3, 6, 9 or 12 min). Although rheological properties, color, and total phenolic content (TPC) values changed at the initial heating up period, there were no significant changes during holding period (p < 0.05). Non-Newtonian (power law) rheology model had higher regression coefficient than Newtonian model, and the extraction method affected the consistency of pomegranate juice samples (p < 0.05). Color values of juice extracted from arils (APJ) was better than that of juice extracted from whole fruits (PPJ), as PPJ contained higher amount of TPC (p < 0.05). Since the heating method did not affect the rheological properties, color, and TPC values, it could be said that there was no electrical effect rather than thermal effects during ohmic heating of pomegranate juice. Ohmic heating could be recommended as an alternative fast-heating method for fruit juices.

Juice production is a multibillion dollar industry and an economical way to use fruit past seasonal harvests. To evaluate how production steps influence not-from-concentrate (NFC) blueberry (Vaccinium sp.) juice recovery, bench top and pilot scale experiments were performed. In bench-top, southern highbush (SHB) blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii × Vaccinium corymbosum) and rabbiteye blueberry (RAB) (Vaccinium ashei) were pressed at varying temperatures. Press treatments included ambient temperature, frozen then thawed, and frozen then heated berries. In addition, two commercial pectinase enzymes were evaluated. Three batches were pressed and average juice recovery was calculated. The highest average free juice recovery (68.8% ± 1.1%) was attained by heating frozen berries and treating with enzyme. Comparing berry species pressed, SHB blueberries produced significantly more juice than RABs. There were no significant differences between enzymes used between berry species. Using this preliminary data, the optimum juice recovery method was then transferred to pilot scale processing. RABs were heated and treated with enzyme then pressed. Free juice recovery from the pilot scale was 74.0% ± 1.0%. Total juice recovery was calculated to be 87% ± 0.6%. With this information, further refinement of juice processes could increase juice production output for small-scale producers and expand local outlets for growers to market their crops as well as create new opportunities for growth in the fresh juice market segment.

Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae are acid-tolerant microorganisms that are able to spoil citrus juices before and after pasteurization. The growth of these microorganisms in orange juice with and without pasteurization was investigated. Two samples of orange juice were inoculated with ca. 105 CFU/ml of each microorganism. Others were inoculated with ca. 107 CFU/ml of each microorganism and then thermally treated. L. plantarum populations were reduced by 2.5 and &lt;1 log10 CFU/ml at 60°C for 40 s and at 55°C for 40 s, respectively. For the same treatments, S. cerevisiae populations were reduced by &gt;6 and 2 log10 CFU/ml, respectively. Samples of heated and nonheated juice were incubated at 15°C for 20 days. Injured populations of L. plantarum decreased by ca. 2 log10 CFU/ml during the first 70 h of storage, but those of S. cerevisiae did not decrease. The length of the lag phase after pasteurization increased 6.2-fold for L. plantarum and 1.9-fold for S. cerevisiae, and generation times increased by 41 and 86%, respectively. The results of this study demonstrate the differences in the capabilities of intact and injured cells of spoilage microorganisms to spoil citrus juice and the different thermal resistance levels of cells. While L. plantarum was more resistant to heat treatment than S. cerevisiae was, growth recovery after pasteurization was faster for the latter microorganism.

Juices from oranges, mandarins and hybrids were thermally treated in a plate exchanger at different conditions to evaluate the effects of treatment on fresh taste and on residual pectinmethylesterase (PME) activity. Freshness was significantly higher in fresh juices than in samples treated at 70°C or higher temperatures for 10 seconds of retention time, whereas no differences were found among samples heated at temperatures from 70 to 90°C for the same time, however at 95°C fresh taste decreased again. Residual PME activity was about 20% in samples treated at 70°C for 5, 10 and 20 seconds and in those heated at 80°C for 5 and 10 seconds, decreasing to 15%, also at 80°C, when retention time increased to 20 seconds. A drastic reduction to about 3% of residual activity was observed at 85°C for 10 seconds. Minimum activities of 0-1% corresponded to samples treated at 95°C. Considering the results of sensory and residual enzyme analyses, the treatment at 85°C for 10 seconds can be considered suitable. In these conditions fresh taste did not differ from that of juices treated at lower temperatures but residual enzyme activity was clearly smaller and acceptable for chilled juices, products of high quality but short shelf life. On the other hand, a deeper reduction of PME activity increasing the temperature to 95°C does not seem advisable since fresh taste decreases. Mandarin juices pasteurised at 85°C for 10 seconds and pasteurised again at the same conditions did not show a further decrease of fresh taste. Two heat treatments were usually applied when packing plants receive the juice from other factories.

Natural orange juice pasteurised (pascalised) by high pressure was stored for 180 days at room temperature in dark conditions. Sensory evaluation of several quality parameters was made. At the same time the frozen and heat pasteurised parallel samples of the juice of the same origin were evaluated for comparison. The sensory evaluation consists of overall image, flavour, taste and sensorial viscosity. The instrumental evaluation of colour, pH and kinematic viscosity was made. The best overall image was received for frozen juice. The pressurised and heated samples were nearly the same as regards the flavour. The sensorial viscosity of all samples was evaluated as thin with very small differences during storage. The preference test was also made – the best quality for the test panel was received for samples of frozen juice followed by pressurised juice. The third rank was given to heat treated samples. The pressurised samples exhibited the acceptable quality for 150 days of storage at room temperature.

Abstract Interest in soursop and its derivatives has increased over time, with many scientific articles reporting its health benefits. Several recent studies reported the presence of bioactive compounds and phytochemicals from soursop juice. However, climatic fruit tends to have different post-harvest handling than others. A series of processes from harvesting to extraction played an important role in its final product. The thermal inactivation of the PPO enzyme, which causes brownish color, can be used to improve the quality of soursop juice. This process can be carried out using the MTLT (Mild Temperature Long Time) pasteurization process using a customized double jacket heater by considering the thermoresistence properties of bioactive compounds in soursop juice. This study aims to determine the optimal formulation for process parameters also provide the optimal choice for the pasteurization process in pilot scale and database for the transition to industrial production. Response Surface Methodology (RSM) was a method used to optimize the process and formulation of soursop fruit juice. In this study, two factors were used, namely pasteurization temperature (56-80 °C) and heating time (5-15 min) obtained by previous research to determine the most optimal total Total Phenolic Content (TPC), Total Flavonoid Content (TFC), Color measurement, Total Dissolve Solid and Viscosity.

The effectiveness of ohmic and conventional heating for reducing spores of Alicyclobacillus acidoterrestris was investigated in commercial pasteurized orange juice. The kinetic parameters (D- and z-values) were determined during ohmic and conventional heating. The effects of temperature (70, 80, and 90°C) and heating time (0, 10, 15, 20, and 30 min) on inactivation of A. acidoterrestris spores during ohmic heating in orange juice were significant (P &lt; 0.05). For 70°C, the voltage gradient also had an effect on inactivation kinetics. At 30 V/cm, D-values at 70, 80, and 90°C were 58.48, 12.24, and 5.97 min, respectively. D-values at corresponding temperatures for conventionally heated spores were 83.33, 15.11, and 7.84 min, respectively. Results showed significantly higher lethality for spores treated with ohmic heating than for spores treated with conventional heating. Conventional heating was ineffective for pasteurizing orange juice, whereas the maximum ohmic heating treatment applied at 30 V/cm was sufficient to inactivate 5 log units of A. acidoterrestris spores.

Fruits from five mayhaw selections were harvested and frozen at –2 °C. Juice was extracted with a steamer and kept in storage at 5 °C until processing. Percent soluble solids, percent malic acid, initial pH, and color were then determined for postharvest characteristics. 550 mL juice was placed in a 2000-mL beaker and heated until boiling. Dry pectin mixed with a portion of the total sugar equivalent to 5–10 times the weight of the pectin was sprinkled into the boiling juice. Once pectin was in solution, the amount of sugar to obtain a ratio of ≈45 parts fruit: 55 parts sugar was added to the mixture. The mixture was cooked until the soluble solid reading reached 65% and then poured into jars to cool to room temperature. The five mayhaw jellies alone with one commercial apple and one commercial mayhaw were evaluated using a panel preference test. Evaluation was based on a scale from dislike extremely to like extremely. Preference scores indicated that mayhaw jellies were preferred to a commercially available apple jelly. There was a definite preference to deep red colored jellies. The specific varietal jellies were preferred to a commercially available mayhaw jelly.

The evaporation process, boiler, and turbine are the main components of the cogeneration system of the sugar factory. In the conventional process, the evaporator requires extracted steam from the turbine, and bled vapor from the evaporator is supplied to the juice heater and the pan stage. The evaporation process may be modified by using extracted steam for the heating duty in the pan stage. This paper is aimed at the investigation of the effects of this process modification. Mathematical models of the conventional and modified processes were developed for this purpose. It was found that, under the conditions that the total evaporator area is 13,000 m2, and the inlet juice flow rate is 125 kg/s, the optimum modified evaporation process requires extracted steam at a pressure of 157.0 kPa. Under the condition that the fuel consumption rate is 21 kg/s, the cogeneration system that uses the optimum modified evaporation process yields 2.3% more power output than the cogeneration system that uses a non-optimum conventional cogeneration process. Furthermore, sugar inversion loss of the optimum modified process is found to be 63% lower than that of the non-optimum conventional process.

Abstract A peer-verified, gas chromatographic (GC) method is presented for the identification of hydrolyzed inulin syrup (HIS) and high-fructose corn syrup (HFCS) in apple juice. The procedure involves determining the Brix value of the apple juice or apple juice concentrate and preparing a dilution of the test sample to 5.5° Brix. A 100 μL aliquot of the 5.5° Brix test solution is then freeze-dried in a GC autosampler vial. The sugars in the freeze-dried residue are converted to trimethylsilyl derivatives, by the addition of an appropriate silylation reagent, and the vial is heated at 75°C for 30 min. After derivatization, the solution is introduced into a gas chromatograph where the analytes are separated on a 30 m, 0.25 mm id DB-5 column. The method can use hydrogen, helium, or nitrogen as the carrier gas. The analytes and marker compounds are measured by use of a flame ionization detector. Commercial apple juice concentrates were diluted with one of the 2 syrups at 2 levels. Dilution was ascertained by the presence of retrograde sugar markers found in the 2 sugar syrups. All 3 laboratories involved in the study were able to identify the correct diluent in the blind, randomly coded, apple juice test portions. The levels of dilution in the test portions were 0, 6.9% (HIS), 16.0% (HIS), 8.1% (HFCS), and 17.0% (HFCS). No false positive results were reported. Quantitative conclusions can be drawn when the same syrup is used for dilution and as a reference standard.

This study was aimed to develop conductive packaging for ohmic heating. Polypropylene (PP) was mixed with conductive material (CM) in the ratios of 70:30 (CM30), 75:25 (CM25), and 80:20 (CM20) (w/w), then the conductive bottles were developed using extrusion blow molding process. The bottles were suspended in different sodium sulfate (Na2SO4) solutions (0.2, 0.3, and 0.5% w/w) as a transmitting current medium for ohmic heating and heated for 8 min. The CM30 and CM 25 had the highest electrical conductivity compared to the CM20, however the CM20 exhibited best processability, hence it was selected to be used for ohmic heating of orange juice. Different concentrations of Na2SO4 solutions had the effects on ohmic heating. The CM20 bottle suspended in 0.2% Na2SO4 solution resulted in the most uniform heating and suitable for ohmic processing of orange juice. The new conductive bottles developed could potentially be used for beverage processing by ohmic heating.

Polyphenols are gaining importance in view of their health beneficial influences. Onion (<em>Allium cepa</em>) was analyzed for total polyphenol and flavonoid contents and their bioaccessibility as influenced by heat processing and food acidulants. Total polyphenols in raw onion (2.17 mg/g) were increased by 50% upon roasting. Total flavonoids in onion (0.27 mg/g) remained unchanged in heat processing. Bio accessible polyphenols and flavonoids from onion were 0.96 and 0.02 mg/g respectively and open-pan boiling increased the bio accessible polyphenols from onion. Addition of food acidulants to onion altered the composition and concentration of phenolic compounds. Total bio accessible polyphenols of onion decreased by 15% in presence of lime juice, while the same increased from microwave heated onions by 21% in presence of amchur. Presence of lime juice decreased bio accessible polyphenols in native and pressure-cooked onion, while the same increased by 37% in roasted onion in presence of amchur. Bioaccessibility of quercetin from onion increased 6-fold in presence of amchur, while a few polyphenols viz., protocatechuic acid, syringic acid, rutin and myricetin became bio accessible in presence of these food acidulants. Amchur enhanced the bio accessible polyphenols from onion more than lime juice. Concentration of bio accessible polyphenols was higher upon open-pan boiling of onion. There was a qualitative as well as quantitative change in the phenolic composition on addition of the food acidulants. Since amchur enhances the concentration of bio accessible polyphenols more than lime juice, its use in food preparations could be a strategy to maximize bioavailability of polyphenols, especially flavonoids from onion.

Occupational Safety and Health (Keselamatan dan Kesehatan Kerja (K3)) is not only important for improving the social security and welfare of its workers but far from that, K3 has a positive impact on the sustainability of employee work productivity. On the safety of the PG production section. Kremboong still has a risk that causes work accidents that often occur such as accidents in the processing department, namely the occurrence of leaks in the evaporator body and the juice heater body. The hazard identification assessment uses the RPN (Risk Priority Number) method where each risk-causing factor is assessed by its value of severity, frequency or probability (occurrence), and detection, then illustrated with a Pareto Diagram to determine the most dominant problem. and using the five why's analysis method to analyze the root causes of the problem in order to obtain a solution.

Loss in Ascorbic Acid contents of orange juice heated under different situations and pH was researched. In this experiment, Navanila oranges from Spain were squeezed and filtered by using a vacuum pump to make orange juice samples. These samples were extracted and make up with 0.1% Formic Acid in HPLC water, HPLC water and phosphate buffer solution (pH=6). Pasteurization was achieved at 60, 65 and 70℃ over 15, 25 and 35min period by using the water bath method and cooled to room temperature immediately. After that, Ascorbic Acid contents were analyzed by HPLC and 0.1% Formic Acid in HPLC water, HPLC water and phosphate buffer solution (pH=6) were used as mobile phases separately for their solutions. HPLC standard samples of Ascorbic Acid were prepared which means 0.1g Ascorbic Acid was weighted and then diluted into 50-250mg/ L solutions to make calibration lines for three solutions. The wavelength of Ascorbic Acid was 245nm but it changed to 296nm when samples in phosphate buffer solution (pH=6). Results showed that Ascorbic Acid concentration is more at 60℃ at 15min and there was a total decline trend with the increase of time and temperature. After statistics analysis, it has a significant affect (P&lt;0.5) related to Ascorbic Acid contents with temperature and pH.

Three successive experiments were included in this trial. The first experiment was a derailed screening program to test the effects of various temperatures and durations on the fruit quality of strawberry fruit. Fruit were exposed to temperatures of 37, 40, 43, and 46°C for durations of 20, 40, 60, 80, end 100 minutes at each temperature level. The temperatures and durations which were detrimental to fruit quality were eliminated; then experiments 2 & 3 were conducted using the remaining temperature and duration levels to study their effects on fruit quality, respiration, and ethylene production.Strawberries heated to 46° C were too severely damaged for other test comparisons. Those exposed to temperature treatments of 43 °C for 30 or 60 mins were consistently less firm, had more heat damage, developed less decay, and had lower CO2 and ethylene production than fruit from lower temperature treatments or control fruit. Differences were sometimes significant.While the heat damage scores from fruit exposed to the 43°C treatments indicated some serious injury, the fruit were stiff judged to be marketable. There were no significant differences in soluble solids content (SSC), titratable acidity, SSC/acid ratio, or juice pH among any of the treatments.

`Elegant Lady', `O'Henry' and `September Sun' peaches [(Prunus persica (L.) Batsch (Peach Group)] and `Summer Bright' and `Summer Grand' nectarines [(Prunus persica (L.) Batsch f. nucipersica (Nectarine Group)] heated to a seed surface temperature of 47.2 °C over a period of 4 hours developed mealy flesh sooner and to a much greater extent than nonheated fruit following cold storage at 5 °C for 1 to 3 weeks. Exo- and endopolygalacturonase activities were reduced following 3 to 4 hours of heating and may have been responsible for the increased mealiness. Mealiness often developed in defined regions rather than throughout the entire fruit. Comparison of juicy and mealy regions within individual fruit revealed that mealy regions contained 65% and 86% less exo- and endopolygalacturonase activity, respectively, than juicy regions, whereas pectinmethylesterase activity was unchanged. Extractable protein was reduced by >50% in the mealy regions of the fruit. Intermittent warming periods of 24 hours at 20 °C at weekly intervals during storage at 5 °C were less effective in reducing mealiness in heat-treated than in control fruit. It is important that future work with heat treatments and stone fruit closely monitor potential effects on this disorder to avoid loss of market quality following treatment.

To isolate bioactive broccoli peptides, crude proteins were flocculated from heated juice of broccoli stems and leaves and then hydrolyzed by proteases. Different proteases yielded different peptides with a significant effect on the bio-activities of broccoli peptides. Antioxidant activity of the broccoli peptides was investigated by measuring their DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) radicals scavenging action in comparison to native antioxidants, reduced glutathione (GSH) and soybean peptides. Broccoli peptides (obtained by Neutrase® hydrolysis) at 5.0 mg/mL exhibited 72.8% of radicals scavenging rates, resembling GSH at 1.0 mg/mL (72.1%), and was 2.8 times than that of soybean peptides at 5.0 mg/mL (25.7%). Subsequently, the hypolipidemic activities were measured by oral gastric gavage of broccoli peptides in hyperlipemic golden hamster. Treatment with broccoli peptides (obtained by papain hydrolysis) significantly decreased the serum TC and LDL-C levels (P < 0.01) in experimental rats. The constitution of amino acid and the distribution of molecular weight analysis showed broccoli peptides contained sixteen amino acids and a great percentage of low molecular weight peptides (<1 kDa, 77.67%). By analyzing the amino acid compositions and bio-activities, our results indicate the high nutritive value and possible applications of broccoli peptides for human health.

Three successive experiments were included in this trial. The first experiment was a derailed screening program to test the effects of various temperatures and durations on the fruit quality of strawberry fruit. Fruit were exposed to temperatures of 37, 40, 43, and 46°C for durations of 20, 40, 60, 80, end 100 minutes at each temperature level. The temperatures and durations which were detrimental to fruit quality were eliminated; then experiments 2 & 3 were conducted using the remaining temperature and duration levels to study their effects on fruit quality, respiration, and ethylene production. Strawberries heated to 46° C were too severely damaged for other test comparisons. Those exposed to temperature treatments of 43 °C for 30 or 60 mins were consistently less firm, had more heat damage, developed less decay, and had lower CO2 and ethylene production than fruit from lower temperature treatments or control fruit. Differences were sometimes significant. While the heat damage scores from fruit exposed to the 43°C treatments indicated some serious injury, the fruit were stiff judged to be marketable. There were no significant differences in soluble solids content (SSC), titratable acidity, SSC/acid ratio, or juice pH among any of the treatments.

The paper presents the optical characteristics of extracts obtained from marc berries of the heather family - lingonberries, cranberries, blueberries and blueberries. To obtain extracts, the berries were pressed by electromechanical method. From the obtained marc berries, water extracts were obtained in a microwave oven with a power of 800 W and a generation frequency of 2450 MHz for different exposure modes from 288 W to 800 W. Hydraulic module 1:10. The duration of the microwave heating 60 seconds. Controls were extracts obtained using hot water and infusion for 10 minutes. The optical characteristics of the juices and extracts from the marc berries were measured spectrophotometrically in the wavelength range of 410-630 nm. The maximum values of the optical spectra were recorded at D520, regardless of the berries used. An increase in the power of the microwave effect led to an increase in the optical values of the spectra of the extracts: bilberry > blueberry> lingonberry> cranberry. The optical characteristics of microwave extracts reached control values when exposed to 464 W for bilberries and blueberries, 648 W for lingonberries and 800 W for cranberries, which affected the color intensity and color coordinates, but did not significantly affect the shade, with the exception of bilberries. The color coordinates of bilberry extracts were closest to the color coordinates of the juices, the hue was more intense than in the juices, but was within the limits characteristic of the formation of color under the influence of anthocyanins. Bilberry extracts had a higher color intensity than blueberry extracts, but smaller shade values. Optical characteristics of berry extracts can be used to optimize the hydronic module and extraction modes.

Abstract The objective was to determine the effect of ultimate pH or “quality grade” (combination of color and marbling) on consumer eating experience of pork chops cooked to different final internal temperatures. The hypothesis was that consumers would rate a greater percentage of pork chops as acceptable with a greater pH, when graded “choice”, or when cooked to 63°C compared with 71°C or 82°C. Consumers (264 total) were served chops in 1 of 2 experiments. Experiment 1 assessed chops as high pH (6.23–5.88) or low pH (5.36–5.56) and cooked to 63°C, 71°C or 82°C. Experiment 2 classified chops as “choice” when NPPC color score ≥ 3 and marbling score was ≥ 2 or “standard” when NPPC scores were below “choice” and cooked to 63°C or 71°C. Chops were cooked with an immersion heater (ANOVA Precision Cooker, Anova Applied Electronics, San Francisco, CA) in a water bath. Consumers used a 9-point Likert-type score system where 1 was extremely tough, dry, bland, or unacceptable and 9 was extremely tender, juicy, flavorful, or acceptable. Data were organized as a percentage of responses and analyzed using the GLIMMIX procedure of SAS for both experiments with models including treatment (pH or quality grade category, temperature and all interactions). More (P < 0.01) consumers scored chops at 7, 8, or 9 for juiciness with a high pH (36.07%) compared with chops with a low pH (24.29%), but pH category did not alter other traits (P ≥ 0.13). Quality grade did not affect (P ≥ 0.30) consumer ratings of any sensory trait. In both studies, a greater (P < 0.001) percentage of consumers rated chops cooked to 63°C as acceptable compared with chops cooked to 71°C. Therefore, internal cooking temperature has a greater impact on consumer eating experience than ultimate pH or “quality grade.”

Oleocellosis or oil spotting on the peel of citrus fruit is a common post-harvest injury caused by improper handling. Mechanical injury allows phytotoxic oil to leak out of oil glands and cause injury to surrounding flavedo cells, resulting in oleocellosis. Mechanical harvesting (MH) of ‘Valencia’ sweet orange is conducted in late spring, when the next season's fruitlets are in their early stages of development. There is a concern that mechanical injury from harvesting machines can cause oleocellosis and fruit drop of young, green ‘Valencia’ sweet orange fruitlets, especially late in the harvest season when fruitlets are relatively large. We evaluated the effects of winter drought stress and subsequent late-season MH with a canopy shaker on oleocellosis of ‘Valencia’ sweet orange fruitlets. In April, mature fruit size, juice content, total soluble solids, and acidity were unaffected by previous winter drought stress treatments. Mechanical harvesting removed ≈90% to 95% of mature fruit and 20% to 50% of fruitlets depending on previous drought stress treatments and harvesting date. Beginning 1 week after the late harvest (13 June), attached fruitlets were tagged and visually evaluated approximately every other month to determine oleocellosis injury until the late-season harvest 12 months later. Only 12% of the fruitlets had oleocellosis on more than 30% of their surface area. Up to 75% of the fruitlets from the previously drought-stressed trees had less than 10% of their surface area injured after MH and 11% of these fruitlets dropped before harvest. Nonetheless, there was no significant increase in fruit drop with increased surface area injured nor was juice quality affected at harvest. Overall, fruit surface oleocellosis decreased and healed as fruit expanded, but surface blemishes did not completely disappear. Thus, fruitlet oleocellosis in late-season mechanically harvested trees was cosmetic and did not increase fruit drop nor alter internal fruit quality.

Heat treatment can affect antimicrobial activity of plant by-products by altering phenolic content and composition and forming melanoidins. The antilisterial efficacy of heat-treated and unheated lyophilized pomegranate juice (LPJ) was determined. The LPJ was heated at 100°C for 0, 30, 60, or 120 min and added at 2% (wt/wt) to ground top round beef, which was then cooked and inoculated with individual L. monocytogenes strains. Samples of meat stored at 5°C were taken at days 1, 8, 14, and 21 and plated onto Oxford medium for enumeration of bacteria. The MIC of LPJ was determined, and agar well diffusion assays were conducted. Against five L. monocytogenes strains, LPJ had a MIC of 1.50 to 1.75% (wt/vol) and 16.8- to 20.0-mm zones of inhibition. In general, no significant differences in L. monocytogenes levels between the various treatments, including the commercial sodium lactate–sodium diacetate combination, were detected at days 1 and 8. The LPJ (0, 30, 60, and 120 min of heating) significantly inhibited growth of all five L. monocytogenes strains in refrigerated ground cooked beef by 1.80 to 4.61 log CFU/g at day 21. Heating did not negatively impact LPJ antilisterial activity. Addition of LPJ lowered pH values by 0.3 units. The L*, a*, and b* values of cooked ground beef with LPJ changed during the study by 3.4 to 4.43, 0.44 to 0.8, and 0.57 to 1.36 units, respectively, compared with the control. This is the first investigation to confirm pomegranate's antilisterial activity in vitro and in ground beef.

When developing modes of food products thermal sterilization, it is necessary to determine the conditions for microorganisms test cultures and their spores guaranteed death in the least heating zone. The location of this zone is a critical parameter in thermal processes. At present, there are conflicting ideas about the localization and possible migration of the zone of least heating in the process of thermal sterilization of products with convective heat transfer. The kinetics of localization of the zone of least heating in the medium volume with convective heat transfer during heat treatment in conjunction with rheological properties was studied in the work. The clarified apple juice for baby food of domestic production was used as the object of study. The probe was placed so that the thermocouple was located on the vertical axis of the can at a geometric height of 3, 6, 9, 12, 18 and 24 mm. At each height value of the thermocouple, the jar with the sample was thermostated for 20 minutes, and then quickly cooled for 10 minutes. Heating was carried out at a thermostat temperature of 75, 80, 85, 90, and 95°C. The dynamics of rheological properties under isothermal conditions at temperatures of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, and 60°C and a range of shear rates from 0 to 700 s – 1 were also studied in the samples. As a result of the studies carried out, the presence of the migration of the zone of least heating during the heat treatment of single-phase media with convective heat transfer was determined experimentally, its kinetics was studied, the non-linear and reversible nature of the migration of the zone of least heating was established. The mechanism of the process of migration of the zone of least heating was proposed taking into account the dynamics of the rheology of the heated medium and the convective flows interaction.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to elucidate the influences of the animal fat and fatty acid type on the formation of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and to propose a formation mechanism of PAHs in fat during electric roasting, which is a method of non-direct-contact-flame heating. Design/methodology/approach The effects of animal fats and model fat on the formation of PAHs were valued on the basis of the ultra high-performance liquid chromatography data. The corresponding products of the FAME pyrolysis were detected by TG-FTIR. The proposal formation mechanism of PAHs was based on the summary of the literature. Findings Contrary to the International Agency for Research on Cancer, DF had higher risk with 280.53 ng/g of concentration after being roasted than the others animal fats of red meat in terms of PAHs formation. This research also ensured the importance of fat on PAHs formation, the concentration of PAHs in pure fats was higher after being electric roasted than that in meat patties and juice which made from corresponding animal fat. What is more, during pure animal fats and meat products being processed, less PAHs formed in the fat with lower extent of unsaturation and lower content of linolenate. In the same way, methyl linolenate demonstrated the significant increasement to PAHs formation compared to the other fatty acids. And, the number of carbon atom and the extent of unsaturation in fatty acid affects the formation of PAHs during roasting. The detection of alkene and alkane allows to propose a formation mechanism of PAHs during model fat being heated. Further study is required to elucidate the confirm moleculars during the formation of PAHs. Originality/value This work studied the effect of the carbon atom number and the unsaturation extent of fats and model fats on the formation of PAHs. This work also assure the important of alkene and alkane on the pyrolysis of model fats. This study also researched the formation and distribution of PAHs in pure fats and meat products after being heated.

Our Survey area is Dilasaini, Ward no.5 of Baitadi District where sugarcane cultivation is widely done in almost all the households of that area and their main problem was red rot disease of sugarcane. We had collected data by using semi structured questionnaire and key informant survey (KIS) was also conducted. Pilot testing was also done to check the accuracy. Data entry was done using MS Excel and descriptive analysis was done using IPM SPSS V.20. Among the diseases of plants, Collectotricum falcatum is highly prevalent in Baitadi and has affected the sugarcane cultivation and production. It not only reduce the production but also causes decline in quality of sugarcane produce and our survey is based on status of people residing there, sugarcane status and Collectotrichum presence, its causes, losses and the expectations of farmers regarding its management. We found that 81.81% were male headed and 18.18% were female headed, 59.09% were Brahmins, 22.72% were Chhetris, 12.12% were Yogis and 6.06% were Dalits. 36.36% have less than 5 ropani land, 40.905 have between 5 to 10 ropani and 22.72% have more than 10 ropani. 83.33% have given prority to jaggery production followed by16.67% to juice extractions and 0% in sugar production. We found that 40.90% households has faced loss more than 60%, 40.90% household facing losses between 30-60% and 18.18% households were facing loss around 10-30%. 68.18% respondents have expectations priority on provision of subsides, 16.67% respondents have on timely availability of planting material, 6.06 % respondents have on fungicide availability, 4.54% have on irrigation facility and remaining 3.03% have on provision of research facility.

AbstractLettuce production in the winter on the Adriatic coast, especially in a non-heated plastic tunnel, requires longer cultivation and is characterised by lower head mass and yield. In these conditions, the effect of biostimulant Bio-algeen S-90 and fertilizer Megagreen on the production of the traditional winter lettuce cultivar ‘Four Seasons’ was tested. Both treatments showed a positive effect on the growth and total yield of winter lettuce, and decreased the share of non-marketable yield. Bio-algeen S-90 treatment increased the plant height by 61.5%, and foliar treatment with Megagreen by 60.9%, as compared to the control treatment. Equally, both treatments resulted in higher leaf numbers (47.7% for Bio-algeen S-90 and 37.2% for Megagreen). The head mass of lettuce treated with Bio-algeen S-90 and Megagreen was 30.3% and 25.0% higher than in the control treatment, respectively. Megagreen contributed more to chlorophyll and carotenoid content, while Bio-algeen S-90 elevated the amount of vitamin C and dry matter. The pH value of lettuce juice decreased after Bio-algeen S-90, while the mineral content (N, P and K) did not differ between the tested treatments. Lower nitrate content was detected after both treatments. The obtained results elucidate the effect of Bio-algeen S-90 and Megagreen on “low input” lettuce production.

Tharus are the marginalized indigenous people of Nepal. This study was carried out using Participatory Rural Appraisal (PRA), Rapid Rural Appraisal (RRA), and Focus Group Discussion (FGD) from 2019 to 2020. The ethnomedicinal data were collected using a semi-structured interview with 75 key informants, local healers, and Guruwas. A total of 74 plants, belonging to 39 families, for the treatment of 11 categories of ailments, were documented. The highest informant consensus factor (FIC) value was for respiratory troubles (0.84), followed by the skeletomuscular disorder (0.83), and dermatological trouble (0.82). The highest frequency of citation (%) was found in Azadirachta indica (90 %), followed by Calotropis gigantea (67 %), Euphorbia antiquorum (67 %), and Rauvolfia serpentina (51 %). Fabaceae (6 spp.) was the most dominating family; herbs (47 %) the most frequently used life forms; leaves (32 %) the most frequently used plant part, and juice (30 %) being the most widely preferred mode of drug preparation. Different parts of the plant species were used for the treatment of more than one ailment using a different mode of drug preparation, and a single species was used to treat more than one ailments. The high average FIC value (0.72) showed that there was a higher agreement among the informants for the use against certain categories of ailments. Some plants like Rauvolfia serpentina, Piper longum, and Asparagus racemosus need a proper conservation strategy, as their population is decreasing in this area.

В статье рассматривается использование экологически чистого сахаросодержащего продукта - соргового сиропа в пищевой промышленности взамен сахара-песка, содержащего вредные химические вещества. Например, в Европе российский сахар (а значит и казахстанский) не признается пищевым продуктом, так как кроме цветности он еще содержит техногенные примеси в виде формалина, извести, серы, вызывающие различные заболевания. Сорговый сок, полученный механическим отжимом стеблей на вальцевых установках, перерабатывается в сорговый сироп, который по питательности не уступает тростниковому и свекловичному сахару, легче усваивается организмом человека, не содержит посторонних примесей и является экологически чистым продуктом. Производителями соргового сиропа являются многие страны, в том числе Венгрия, Китай, а в США годовой объем превышает 10 млн литров. В этих странах сорговый сироп используется как самостоятельный продукт или как заменитель традиционного сахара при производстве продуктов питания. Чистое сорго, иногда называемое сиропом сорго, производится из натурального сока, полученного из растения, называемого тростниковым сорго. Этот сок концентрируют путем выпаривания в открытой кастрюле, очищают от примесей, получая мягкий ароматный сироп. Сироп сорго изготавливают из зеленого сока растения сорго, который извлекают из измельченных стеблей, а затем нагревают для испарения лишней воды, оставляя сироп. Сорговый сироп получают из тростника, собирая его листья и измельчая или растирая их. Как показали результаты исследований, оптимальное количество соргового сиропа при производстве пшеничного хлеба - 8 % к массе муки в тесте взамен 1 % сахара; оптимальное количество соргового сиропа при производстве сахарного печенья - 50 % соргового сиропа к массе сахарной пудры. Таким образом, при замене сахара сорговым сиропом в процессе производства пищевых продуктов, во-первых, снижается импорт сахара за счет замены его отечественным сорговым сиропом в пищевой промышленности, во-вторых, за счет использования экологически чистого продукта исключается вредное воздействие сахаросодержащего продукта на организм человека. The article discusses the use of an environmentally friendly sugar-containing product - sorghum syrup in the food industry instead of granulated sugar, which contains harmful chemicals. For example, in Europe, Russian sugar (and hence Kazakhstani) is not recognized as a food product, since, in addition to color, it also contains technogenic impurities in the form of formalin, lime, and sulfur, which cause various diseases. Sorghum juice, obtained by mechanical squeezing of the stems on roller plants, is processed into sorghum syrup, which is not inferior to cane and beet sugar in terms of nutritional value, is easier to digest by the human body, does not contain impurities and is an environmentally friendly product. Sorghum syrup is produced in many countries, including Hungary, China, and in the USA the annual volume exceeds 10 million liters. In these countries, sorghum syrup is used as a standalone product or as a substitute for traditional sugar in food production. Pure sorghum, sometimes called sorghum syrup, is made from natural juice obtained from a plant called cane sorghum. This juice is concentrated by evaporation in an open pan, purified from impurities, obtaining a soft fragrant syrup. Sorghum syrup is made from the green sap of the sorghum plant, which is extracted from the crushed stems and then heated to evaporate excess water, leaving the syrup. Sugarcane is obtained from the cane by collecting its leaves and crushing or rubbing the juice. As the research results showed, the optimal amount of sorghum syrup in the production of wheat bread is 8% by weight of flour in the dough instead of 1% sugar; the optimal amount of sorghum syrup in the production of sugar cookies is 50% sorghum syrup to the mass of powdered sugar. Thus, when replacing sugar with sorghum syrup in the process of food production, firstly, the import of sugar is reduced by replacing it with domestic sorghum syrup in the food industry, and secondly, due to the use of an environmentally friendly product, the harmful effects of a sugar-containing product on the human body are eliminated.

The effect of high-intensity pulsed electric fields (HiPEF) has been reported on the microbial resistance of fruit juices and beverages. However, the influence of HiPEF on bioactive compounds in herbal infusions is still limited. The objective of the present work was to evaluate chemical stability of polyphenols of infusions from Buddleja scordioides or Salvilla under thermal processing (concentrates) followed by HiPEF treatments. Buddleja infusions were prepared at 1% w/v of salvilla, heated, filtered and concentrated in a thin falling film evaporator. Three different HiPEF treatments were applied to Buddleja scordioides concentrated beverages. The percentage of pulse rate was 25 and 90%; output temperature, 18.3 ± 1 °C; and the frequency range, 100, 300 and 400 Hz. The feed flow was 0.5 L/h. DPPH radical scavenging assay, inhibition of Nitric Oxide activity and analysis of phenolic acids and flavonoids by UPLC-ESI-MS/MS were determined. ANOVA one-way analysis and Tukey test (p < 0.05) were used to analyze results. Concentration process increases the amount of flavonols; however, the use of HiPEF produces a minor reduction on antioxidant capacity. The use of HiPEF at 1000 kJ/kg and 1100 kJ/kg displays a similar profile on phenolic acids between HiPEF-treated beverages and concentrates, showing that the use of HiPEF may be a promissory technology in the processing practices of herbal infusions.

ABSTRACT Increased popularity of natural and organic processed meats can be attributed to the growing consumer demand for preservative-free foods, including processed meats. To meet this consumer demand, meat processors have begun using celery juice concentrate in place of sodium nitrite to create products labeled as no-nitrate or no-nitrite-added meat products while maintaining the characteristics unique to conventionally cured processed meats. Because of flavor limitations, natural cures with celery concentrate typically provide lower ingoing nitrite concentrations for ready-to-eat processed meats than do conventional cures, which could allow for increased growth of pathogens, such as Clostridium perfringens, during cooked product cooling such as that required by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The objective of this study was to investigate the implications associated with reduced nitrite concentrations for preventing C. perfringens outgrowth during a typical cooling cycle used for cooked products. Nitrite treatments of 0, 50, and 100 ppm were tested in a broth system inoculated with a three-strain C. perfringens cocktail and heated with a simulated product thermal process followed by a typical cooling-stabilization process. The nitrite concentration of 50 ppm was more effective for preventing C. perfringens outgrowth than was 0 ppm but was not as effective as 100 ppm. The interaction between nitrite and temperature significantly affected (P &lt; 0.05) C. perfringens outgrowth in both total population and number of vegetative cells. Both temperature and nitrite concentration significantly affected (P &lt; 0.05) C. perfringens spore survival, but the interaction between nitrite and temperature did not have a significant effect (P &gt; 0.05) on spore outgrowth. Results indicate that decreased nitrite concentrations (50 ppm) have increased potential for total C. perfringens population outgrowth during cooling and may require additional protective measures, such as faster chilling rates.

Twenty litres of milk was obtained from lactating Bunaji cows and clarified and then divided into fifteen parts of one litre such that each treatment had three replicates. Each part (1 L) was heated to a temperature of 50˚C with intermittent stirring. Thereafter, 20 g of coagulant (Calotropis procera) leaves juice was added and immediately, ascorbic acid was added at varying levels of 0 mg (T1), 50 mg (T2), 100 mg (T3), 150 mg (T4) and 200 mg (T5) and allowed to form curd. The whey was drained off to obtain the curd and refrigerated for fourteen (14) days. The cheeses obtained were investigated for proximate and microbial qualities at days 1, 7 and 14. Storage effect showed significant (p<0.05) reduction in carbohydrate and increase in moisture contents of the cheese. Treatment 1 had the highest moisture (35.52%) and ash (3.03%) values than cheeses enhanced with ascorbic acid. Treatment 4 was superior in fat (28.48%) and protein (22.73%) while carbohydrate concentration was at maximum (21.61%) in treatment 5. The highest Total viable bacteria count (TVBC), coliform count (TVCC), Lactobacillus count (TVLC), mold and yeast count (TVMYC) were quantified as 131.60 x 102, 63.10 x 102, 54.93 x 102 and 25.67 x 102 cfu respectively at day 14. Treatment influence showed significant (P<0.05) difference with treatment 3 having the highest TVBC (141.11x 102 cfu) and TVCC (67.94 x102 cfu) values respectively. Treatment and storage effects showed that T3 had the highest TVBC (147.33 x102 cfu) and TVCC (74.50 x102 cfu) at day 14. The TVMYC (26.83x102 cfu) was superior in T3 at day 1, while the TVLC was at its peak (61.67x 102 cfu) in T4 at day 14. Isolated bacteria were Micrococcus lactis, Lactobacillus spp, Bacillus subtilis, and the mold and yeast were Fusarium solani, Candida albican and Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Conclusively, due to the higher concentration of carbohydrate in the refrigerated ascorbic acid enhanced cheese, it could serve as a source of energy for human, ......

Although chemical control is still the main way to reduce the preharvest and postharvest incidence of mycotoxigenic fungi, the worldwide tendency to reduce chemical use, and the emergence of resistant strains, have accelerated the search for non-chemical strategies. Those applied at the postharvest stage include heat treatments, biological control, and modified-or controlled-atmosphere storage. It is now evident that combinations of treatments are more efficient than individual treatments applied alone. Most of the studies on mycotoxins in fruits are focused on patulin (produced mainly by Penicillium expansum) in apple products, and ochratoxin A (produced mainly by Aspergillus carbonarius) in grapes and in wines. Patulin levels can be significantly reduced by washing and sorting apples, and trimming away rotten tissues. Other treatments for patulin reduction have been associated with its ability to react readily with compounds containing sulphydryl groups. Other additives that reduce patulin levels are ascorbic acid and B-complex vitamins. The rate of ochratoxin A reduction during fermentation depends, among others, on the yeast used for fermentation and the type of wine produced. During vinification, ochratoxin A is also reduced by binding to the solid residues of grapes. Alternaria mycotoxins may be produced naturally in a variety of fruits and vegetables and their processed products. At least two of these mycotoxins, alternariol and alternariol monomethyl, were shown to be stable in heated apple juice. In some apple cultivars, Alternaria occurs in the core and the damage is hidden. Contamination with mycotoxins is recognized as an unavoidable risk, but three major components are involved in the attempt to minimize the risk: Good Agricultural Practices, Good Manufacturing Practices, and Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points. In many countries, regulatory measures have been taken to limit the presence of mycotoxins in fruits and vegetables. Several factors may influence the establishment of national and regional mycotoxin limits and regulations.

Machine harvest of ‘Brown Snout’ specialty cider apple (Malus ×domestica) has been shown to provide yield and juice quality characteristics similar to that of hand harvest. In this 2-year study, the sensory perception (color, aroma, flavor, mouthfeel, taste, and aftertaste) of ciders produced from machine-harvested and hand-harvested fruit that were ambient stored (56 °F) 0–4 weeks postharvest were compared using a trained panel and electronic tongue (e-tongue). For nearly all sensory attributes evaluated, the trained panelists scored the 2014 machine-harvested samples higher than the 2014 hand-harvested samples. Some of the key sensory differences included a darker color, a more astringent and heated mouthfeel, and a more sour taste of the machine-harvested samples than the hand-harvested samples. Trained panelists perceived no differences due to the harvest method among the 2015 samples for any of the sensory attributes evaluated. The e-tongue demonstrated good discrimination (index value = 95) of 2014 samples, but poor discrimination (index value = −0.5) of 2015 samples, mirroring the year-to-year variation experienced by the trained panelists. Overall, the e-tongue demonstrated a response to metallic and sour that was more associated with the machine-harvested samples and a response to sweet and umami that was more associated with the hand-harvested samples. These results demonstrate that cider made from machine-harvested fruit can have a different sensory profile than cider made from hand-harvested fruit. A consumer tasting panel should be conducted next to provide an indication of market response to the differing sensory profiles, qualifying the impact of harvest method. Results also indicate that ambient storage (56 °F) of fruit up to 4 weeks may not impact cider sensory attributes; however, cider apple growers should avoid ambient storage of machine-harvested fruit given the significant yield losses demonstrated in previous studies. Variation in cider quality due to year of harvest was most likely a result of differences in the hand-harvest technique between the 2 years, specifically more fruit bruising in 2014 than in 2015, demonstrating the importance of harvesting fully mature fruit with a standard protocol so as to supply a consistent raw material to cider producers. The e-tongue produced variable results compared with trained panelists and more development is needed before it can be incorporated into cider sensory evaluation protocol.

Background:: In the long run, synthetic tints were found to be harmful to the chemicals. As a result natural tints have come to be used for their many intrinsic values. The main reason being, then availability of local plants as the main source of natural colorants. Their easy availability in the country being zero cost – effective and planted for other purposes are the main reasons for utilizing them as natural tints. Almost all the parts of the plants, namely stem, leaves, fruits, seeds, barks etc. are used for extracting natural colour. In addition, they are antimicrobial antifungal, insect – repellant deodorant, disinfectant having medicinal values. Methods:: Sweet Indrajao leaves were cleaned by washing with water and dried under direct sunlight and ground as fine powder. A fine strainer was used to remove the wastages. After all these processes, 1-kilogram leaves weighed 318 grams. Then, it is put in 75% ethanol 25% water and heated in a breaker which in kept over a water bath for 2 hours. After this, the contents were filtered and kept in a separate beaker. Bleached fleece draperies stained with stain extract were made to become wet and put into different stain baths which contain the required amount of stain extract and water. Acetic acid was added to it after 20 minutes. The fleece drapery was stained for about one hour at 60oC. The draperies thus stained were removed, squeezed, and put to treatment with metal salts without washing. Different metal salts were used for the treatment using 3% of any one of the chemical mordants like alum, stannous chloride, potassium dichromate, ferrous sulphate, nickel sulphate, copper sulphate and natural mordants such as myrobolan, turmeric, cow dung, Banana sap juice at 60oC for 30 minutes with MLR of 1:30. The stained draperies were washed repeatedly in all the three methods in water and dried in air. At last, the stained draperies were put to soap with soap solution at 60oC for 10 minutes. The draperies were repeatedly washed in water and dried under the sun. Results:: Sweet Indrajao leaves discharged colour easily in alcoholic water. The fleece draperies were stained with chemical and natural mordants. It was observed that the stain uptake was found to be good in post-mordanting method. Ultrasonication has clearly improved the stainability of the draperies at pH 3 and 3.5 values. The pH decreases the stain ability under both Conventional and Ultrasonic conditions. The colour strength increases with an increase in staining temperature in both cases of US and CH methods. Conclusion:: Sweet Indrajao.L has been found to have good ultrasonic potential as a stain plant. The stain uptake as well as the fastness properties of the fleece drapery were found to enhance when metal mordant was used in conjugation with ultra-sonication for the extract of Sweet Indrajao. It was also found that the enhancement of staining ability was better without mordant draperies. The dye extract showed good antibacterial activity against the three bacterial pathogens. Among the three bacterial pathogens, dye extract showed more effective against Escherichia coli pathogens and dye extract showed more effective against Aspergillus pathogens. Hence, the ultrasonic method of drapery staining may be appropriate and beneficial for society at large in future.

<b><i>Introduction:</i></b> Insufficient and unhealthy total fluid intake (TFI), especially in early stages of life, may have negative health impact [<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="ref1">1</xref>]. Understanding how fluid consumption may differ throughout the day or as a function of location could help drive policy initiatives to encourage healthier drinking habits, especially in young population groups, so this study assesses current patterns of fluid consumption in children and adolescents in Spain, including drinking occasions and locations and to compare TFI with the adequate intake of water from fluids recommended by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) [<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="ref2">2</xref>]. <b><i>Methods:</i></b> Our analyses were based on a Spanish cross-sectional study assessing TFI from all sources of fluid consumption according to occasions of the day and location, using a validated liquid intake 7-day record (Liq.In7), details of which can be found elsewhere [<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="ref3">3</xref>]. Data collection occurred in spring 2018. A sample of 146 (63% boys) children (4–9 years old) and adolescents (10–17 years old) was included (Table 1). Parents reported such information in case children were younger than 16 years. The header categories of fluid consumption were water, milk and derivatives, hot beverages, sugar-sweetened beverages (SSBs), fruit juices, artificial non-nutritive sweetened beverages, alcoholic beverages, and others. Regarding occasions, the analyzed categories were main meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), snacks (mid-morning, mid-afternoon, after-dinner) and outside meals. Considered occasions were home, school/university/work, and other. <b><i>Results:</i></b> A high proportion of children and adolescents did not meet EFSA-derived reference values for fluid intake (73% and 72%, respectively) (Fig. 1). Forty percent of children and around 50% of adolescents consumed at least one serving of SSB per day, while about 20% consumed only one or less serving of water per day. Consumption during main meals was most important for both children and adolescents (representing 50% and 54% of TFI, respectively) and was mainly driven by water (62%). The consumption at home in children (70% of TFI) was made of water (47%). In the same way, at school, water was contributing to half of the intake. However, adolescent girls at school drink more SSB (41%) than water (34%), being the highest consumed fluid. At other locations, adolescent boys also drink more SSBs (51%) than either water (29%) or milk and derivatives (10%). <b><i>Conclusion:</i></b> Drinking habits of Spanish young populations are far away from current recommendations because a low fluid intake, specifically water, and a high proportion of SSB consumption in children and adolescents. Interventions that assure achieving EFSA TFI recommendations are of special importance for children and adolescents, with, according our results, a special focus in male adolescents.

The present study investigates the development of functional enriched sugarcane juice processed through ohmic heating. Currently, ready to drink functional enriched sugarcane juice with extended shelf life is not available in markets. As conventional heat processing methods reduce the taste, color, and flavor of juices, functional enriched sugarcane juice blended with amla and lemon juice extracts was developed with extended shelf life processed with minimal heat treatment by utilizing ohmic heating - a novel food processing technology. Ohmic Heating (OH) is an alternative thermal treatment as it causes volumetric heating of the sample with a short processing time and it causes minimum discoloration and maintains the nutritive value of the food. The preliminary trials were carried out to optimize the levels of sugarcane juice, amla juice and lemon juice for acceptable sensory attributes on 9 point hedonic scale. Response Surface Methodology (RSM) was used to determine the combinations of the experiment. The independent variables considered were sugarcane juice, amla juice and lemon juice. The responses considered were sensory Volume xxx | Issue xxxx | 2 attributes such as color, flavor, taste and overall acceptability. The optimum levels of sugarcane juice, amla juice and lemon juice were 91.998 mL, 4.720 mL, and 3.282 mL, respectively. The optimum levels were blended for the development of functionally enriched sugarcane juice. The standardized juice was processed using ohmic heating with two different treatments, viz., 50 °C (T1) and 60 °C (T2), for 3 minutes at 25 V/cm. The processed juice was collected in sterile glass bottles and stored at 5 ˚C for conducting storage studies at regular intervals. Microbial and sensory parameters of the untreated, control (pasteurized), and ohmic heated juice were analyzed using one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA). No significant difference (p>0.05) was observed in sensory immediately after ohmic processing when compared to control samples but showed a highly significant difference (p<0.01) in sensory during the storage period. There was a high significant difference (p<0.01) in the total plate count of ohmic heated samples compared to control and during the storage period. No coliform was found in all ohmic heated and control samples. Yeast and mold were present in the untreated sample, but after ohmic heating, no growth was observed. Hence highest microbial reduction was observed in ohmic heating treatment T2 than T1 and control, and the shelf life also extended up to 4 weeks

Описан механизм влияния вязкости на процессы выпаривания очищенного сока и кристаллизации сахарозы. Исследовано влияние сульфитационной обработки очищенного по типовой схеме сока II сатурации на его кинематическую и динамическую вязкость и эффективность выпаривания. Для эксперимента очищенный сок II сатурации со значением рН 9,2 делили на две равные части. Одну часть оставляли в неизменном виде – контрольный образец, другую подвергали сульфитационной обработке до рН 8,8 – опытный образец. В обоих образцах определяли кинематическую вязкость с последующим пересчетом в динамическую вязкость. Эффективность сульфитационной обработки определяли по степени снижения динамической вязкости в образце обработанного сока II сатурации и содержанию сухих веществ в образцах сиропа, полученных после выпаривания контрольного и опытного образцов сока в течение 90 мин на глицериновой бане, нагретой до 120°С. Установлено, что сульфитационная обработка очищенного сока II сатурации обеспечивает снижение его динамической вязкости на 6,27%, а при его последующем выпаривании – повышает содержание сухих веществ в сиропе на 4,0% по сравнению с контрольным образцом. Высказано предположение, что сульфитационная обработка очищенного сока целесообразна для повышения качества – снижения цветности и конкурентоспособности продукции за счет снижения расхода условного топлива на получение готового продукта. The mechanism of influence of viscosity on the processes of evaporation of purified juice and crystallization of sucrose is described. The influence of sulfitation treatment of purified thin juice according to the standard scheme on its kinematic and dynamic viscosity and evaporation efficiency has been studied. For the experiment the purified thin juice with pH value of 9,2 is divided into two equal parts. One part was left unchanged – the control sample, the other was subjected to sulfitation treatment to pH 8,8 – the experimental sample. Kinematic viscosity with subsequent conversion to dynamic viscosity was determined in both samples. The effectiveness of sulfitation treatment is determined by the degree of reduction in the dynamic viscosity in the sample of processed thin juice and the content of dry substances in the thick juice samples obtained after evaporation of the control and experimental samples of juice for 90 minutes in a glycerin bath heated to 120°C. It was found that the sulfitation treatment of purified thin juice provides a decrease in its dynamic viscosity by 6,27%, and during its subsequent evaporation – increases the dry matter content in the thick juice by 4,0% compared to the control sample. The suggestion was made that the sulfitation treatment of purified juice is appropriate for improving the quality – reducing the color and competitiveness of products by reducing the consumption of conventional fuel to obtain the finished product.

AbstractThis research conducted with the fully fresh, ripe and sound tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum Mill.) was collected then washed, peeled, seeds removed and transferred to the juice extractor. Sugar, preservatives were added to the extracted filtrated juice. Then the juice was heated, cooled and bottled for preservation. Tomato juice was prepared with three different treatments. Among the three treatments T1, T2 and T3 sample were prepared with no preservative, Na-benzoate preservative and potassium meta-bisulphite (KMS) preservative respectively. The organoleptic observation of this tomato juice was studied for 60 days storage period. Chemical analysis and sensory tests were carried out during the 30 days at an interval of 15 days to assess the effect of chemical additives on the shelf life of tomato juice. Negligible Change in chemical constituents except vitamin C was observed in the prepared juice throughout the 30 days storage period. Color was gradually faded and slightly off flavor develops at the end of the storage periods. The treatment T2 secured highest score for color, flavor, taste and overall acceptability and ranked as “Like very much” by a taste testing panel. Tomato juice prepared with no preservative (T1) spoiled after 45 days storage and juice prepared with KMS preservative (T3) spoiled after 60 days storage. Total number of viable bacteria was highest in tomato juice treated with no preservative (T1) and KMS preservative (T3). Tomato juice with Na-benzoate preservative (T2) contained least viable bacteria which was better than T1 and T3 sample. Considering all the parameters, Na-benzoate tends to be better additives than potassium meta-bisulphite (KMS) for preservation of tomato juice.

Aims: The aim of this study was to optimize clarification process of the Aloe vera juice followed by its preservation by ohmic heating as no systematic study has been conducted on these aspects. Study Design: The enzymatic clarification method was used for clarification of Aloe vera juice by using the enzyme pectinase. The enzyme concentration, incubation temperature and time were optimized for clarification of juice. The Aloe vera juice was treated at different Time (min) gradients, current, initial temperature and after temperature at particular current gradient and the ohmic heated juice was then stored in sterilized bottles for further analysis. Place and Duration of Study: Experiments were done in Department of Food Science and Technology, Shivaji University, Kolhapur, M.S. (India) and completed within 12 months. Methodology: The optimal conditions for the enzymatic treatment of Aloe vera juice were investigated in order to minimize the turbidity of the juice and maximize the TSS of the juice. The clarified Aloe vera juice was then treated with ohmic heating at different time and current combinations and stored for 60 days to study the physic-chemical and microbial parameters of stored juice. Results: The recommended enzymatic treatment conditions were: enzyme concentration 1% incubation time 6 h and incubation temperature 45ºC and the TSS, acidity and Turbidity under these conditions were 3.5ºBx, 0.30% and 206.66 NTU respectively. During storage, increased in TSS value from 2.1 to 2.6ºBx, acidity from 0.21 to 0.33% were recorded in ohmic treated juice samples. A very high TPC (102x105 CFU/ml) and yeast and mold count (68x105 CFU/ml) was recorded in untreated sample at 30 days of storage whereas the juice samples treated with ohmic heating at different time and current gradients were observed to be within the limit of standard requirement of microbial quality even up to 60 days of storage. Conclusion: Enzymatic treatments can reduce the turbidity in Aloe vera juice. Ohmic treatment at different time and current gradients can preserve the clarified juice with respect to its microbial quality for more than 60 days.

A few years ago, the Ledesma sugar company (Argentina) started an investment process with the aim of increasing the milling capacity from 14,000 to 24,000 t/d (tonnes cane/day). The sugar plant began to install plate heat exchangers and plate evaporators as an alternative to the traditional tubular equipment. Information was collected on the installation, operation and maintenance parameters during more than 15 years, during both the harvesting and off-season. Some of the results obtained in comparison with tubular equipment and with data for plate equipment in the literature were: Heaters: heat transfer coefficients similar to those quoted in the literature for heating limed juice and 80% higher for clarified juice heating, shorter cleaning time (8–10 h reduced to 4 h), shorter maintenance times but higher costs in spare parts than expected; Evaporators: 15–30% higher heat transfer coefficients, 30–40% higher specific evaporation rates, shorter cleaning times (18–24 h reduced to 5 h), 20% less surface area per t/d, but higher cost of spare parts than expected.

Objectives: This study aimed to assess the effect of three commonly consumed beverages on surface roughness of polished and glazed zirconia-reinforced lithium silicate (ZLS) glass ceramics. Materials and Methods: In this experimental study, 104 rectangular specimens were cut from Vita Suprinity blocks with 2 mm thickness. After ultrasonic cleaning and firing of the specimens, they were finished and polished in two groups. Specimens in the first group were polished using a 2-step polishing kit while the second group specimens were glazed and heated in a porcelain firing oven according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Baseline surface roughness was measured using a profilometer. Specimens in each group were then randomly divided into 4 subgroups (n=13) for immersion in artificial saliva (control group), cola, orange juice and black tea. Surface roughness was measured again and data were analyzed using two-way ANOVA. Results: The highest and the lowest mean Ra were found in orange juice and saliva subgroups, respectively in both glazed and polished groups. The Ra values of both polished and glazed groups significantly increased after immersion in orange juice and cola (P<0.05). The polished surfaces showed insignificantly higher surface roughness compared with glazed surfaces (P>0.05). Conclusion: Orange juice and cola significantly increased the surface roughness of both polished and glazed ZLS ceramics. Type of surface finishing (polishing versus glazing) had no significant effect on the surface roughness of specimens following immersion in different beverages.

Objectives: This study aimed to assess the effect of three commonly consumed beverages on surface roughness of polished and glazed zirconia-reinforced lithium silicate (ZLS) glass ceramics. Materials and Methods: In this experimental study, 104 rectangular specimens were cut from Vita Suprinity blocks with 2 mm thickness. After ultrasonic cleaning and firing of the specimens, they were finished and polished in two groups. Specimens in the first group were polished using a 2-step polishing kit while the second group specimens were glazed and heated in a porcelain firing oven according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Baseline surface roughness was measured using a profilometer. Specimens in each group were then randomly divided into 4 subgroups (n=13) for immersion in artificial saliva (control group), cola, orange juice and black tea. Surface roughness was measured again and data were analyzed using two-way ANOVA. Results: The highest and the lowest mean Ra were found in orange juice and saliva subgroups, respectively in both glazed and polished groups. The Ra values of both polished and glazed groups significantly increased after immersion in orange juice and cola (P<0.05). The polished surfaces showed insignificantly higher surface roughness compared with glazed surfaces (P>0.05). Conclusion: Orange juice and cola significantly increased the surface roughness of both polished and glazed ZLS ceramics. Type of surface finishing (polishing versus glazing) had no significant effect on the surface roughness of specimens following immersion in different beverages.

The polysaccharides in asparagus are additionally peremptory to incorporate into this area on cancer prevention agent and calming medical advantages. Polysaccharides are an exceptionally regular kind of complex sugars, and you will in some cases hear them being suggested to just as starches [1]. The majority of the polysaccharides dissected in asparagus to date include the inulins and heteroxylans. These two huge groups of polysaccharides are not as regular in sustenances, particularly in concentrated sums. In creature contemplates, the polysaccharides in asparagus have been show to have both cell reinforcement and antitumor properties.As for the inulins, it is likewise important here that while asparagus isn't exactly as rich in these polysaccharides as chicory root or Jerusalem artichoke, it is as yet a very focus source [2]. Asparagus racemosus has a place with the family Liliaceae, and is regularly known as Satavari. In Thai, it is named Rak‑Sam‑Sib or on the other hand Sam‑Roi‑Rak. The plant is every now and again found at low heights in shaded territories and in tropical atmospheres all through Asia, Australia furthermore, Africa [3]. Steroidal saponins are the real constituents of the plant. The pharmacological exercises of A. racemosus root extricates have been accounted for, including antiulcer, cancer prevention agent, immunomodulatory, antidiabetic, antidiarrhoeal, phytoestrogenic, against maturing and adaptogenic properties [4]. Base of A. racemosus can be utilized as a tonic, and is thought to be mixed with emollient, cooling, nerve tonic, obstructing, galactagogic, Spanish fly, diuretic, restoring, carminative, stomachic and germicide properties. The foundation of A. racemosus has a few helpful impacts that are proposed for the treatment of apprehensive issue, dyspepsia, the runs, tumors and irritation [5]. Asparagus along with cell reinforcement action is also a vegetable. Asparagus juice was created with new asparagus macerate treated with a carbohydrases blend at 37 °C for up to 8 h. Rutin , cancer prevention agent movement, yield, solvent strong substance, and shade of the delivered asparagus juice were resolved [6]. The outcomes demonstrated that Viscozyme, especially in the first hour, asparagus juice yield was higher than the control, but the juice was basically less rutin than the control and had most anti cancerous agents movement than control only in the first two hours.The juice treated with viscosity has a soluble strong substance that is significantly higher than the control [7]. The green part of asparagus juice is rapidly weakening both for the collection and control of Viscozyme. It had the advantage of creating a highly viscous juice cell reinforcement movement, and dissolvable strong substance in shorter time of treatment contrasted with control [8]. A pectolytic protein readiness from Aspergillus nigerimpaired most rutin substance and cell reinforcement movement of asparagus juice. To research the system of such misfortune, we dissected a few conceivable related chemical exercises in pectinase AN. It is seen that movement of pectinase A to oxidize guaiacol had no huge distinction by the nearness of H 2 O 2; in this manner it can be laccase action, not peroxidase action, that pectinase A contained [9]. It didn't discover any polyphenol oxidase action in pectinase AN. Laccase in pectinase A are the real reason for rutin lose and cancer prevention agent movement of asparagus juice. At the point where many laccase action of pectinase A was inactivated subsequent to warming at seventy degree for one point five minutes and brooded with asparagus squeeze, rate of rutin was just nine percent of that treated with unheated pectinase AN, and the cancer prevention agent action was also expanded [10]. The effect of ramnosidase has been described in pectinase AN, and it can convert rutin into quercetin-3-glucoside, which has a higher cellular supplement action in asparagus juice. This can clarify the expansion of the cellular reinforcement movement of asparagus juice treated with heated pectinase A, which still contains the ramnosidase effect [11]. The revelation of our exploration is useful to create juice with higher cancer prevention agent movement and high medical advantages in the juice business [12]. It is found that business pectolytic chemical arrangement from Aspergillus Niger which contains laccase action which diminished rutin substance and cell reinforcement movement in asparagus juice. Exploration examined impacts of pH, temperature, and grouping of pectinase AN on pectinase A's laccase movement to diminish rutin substance and cell reinforcement action of asparagus juice [13]. Asparagus juice was hatched with pectinase AN at various pHs , temperatures and compound fixations. Rutin substance and cancer prevention agent movement of tests was dictated by HPLC and free radical technique, individually [14]. Rutin loss rate and cancer prevention agent action of asparagus juice was little at pH 3.2 than at pH 4.5 and pH 5.8, littler for 0.1% pectinase A than 0.5% and 1% pectinase AN. Rutin loss rate of asparagus drink was more prominent at 25 °C than at the other two temperatures [15]. Pectinase A can diminish rutin substance and cell reinforcement action of asparagus drink in chose conditions. Be that as it may, rutin substance and cell reinforcement movement of asparagus drink delivered utilizing pectin’s A can be less diminished at pH 3.2 and 0.1% of protein under two hours of pondering time. The data was useful for drink industry to create drinks with higher cell reinforcement action utilizing pectin’s AN [16]. The polysaccharides in asparagus are additionally imperative to incorporate in cancer prevention.Asparagus contains rich numbers of B vitamins that helps maintain healthy homocysteine levels. The rich folate present in asparagus helps reduce the risk of low birth weight and birth defects. Asparagus contains a large amount of inulin supplements, a type of complex sugar, ordinarily referred to as prebiotic.

Bacterial Meningitis (BM) is the most common serious infection of the central nervous system (brain and spinal cord). This research aims to determine the mineral composition and to evaluate the in vitro antibacterial activity of the Juice Extract of Allium Sativum, Ethanolic Extract of Allium Sativum and Aqueous Extract of Allium sativum (JEAS, EEAS and AEAS). The collected bulbs of A. sativum (600 g) were washed and air dried under shade for 2 hours and the dry scaly outer covering was peeled-off to obtain the fresh garlic cloves which were then divided into three parts of 200 g each. These three portions were crushed separately for cold extraction. The first portion was homogenized and poured into a muslin cloth to squeeze out the juice, while second and third portions were homogenized and submerged into 500 ml of 96% ethanol and 500 ml of distilled water respectively for 24 hours and both filtered after thorough shaking. The antibacterial activity of bulbs of A. sativum juice, ethanolic and aqueous (JEAS, EEAS and AEAS) extracts as folkloric medicine against clinical isolates were determined using Agar well diffusion and broth dilution method. Distilled water, concentrated nitric acid (HNO3) and hydrochloric acid (HCl) were used to digest the extract, which was then heated in water bath at 90ºC and filtered to obtain the filtrate for the analytical studies for A. sativum nutritional composition and zeolite herbominerals. The micro-herbominerals with their proximate values observed pharmacologic of Silver, Manganese, Zinc, Iron and Selenium; which has biocidal properties as well as immune system to cushioning the challenges of the BM pathogens. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) and phytochemical screening of the extracts were evaluated. The results obtained showed that the juice and ethanolic extracts were potent, inhibiting the growth of clinical isolates with zone of inhibition ranging from 14-36 mm. The extracts inhibited bacterial isolates in concentration dependant manner with MICs ranging 0.02-15 mg/ml and MBCs 0.04-5 mg/ml. Phytochemical screening of the extracts revealed the presence of alkaloids, flavonoids, anthraquinone, carbohydrates, fats and oils, steroidal ring, saponins and terpenoids. This experimental investigation has provided the scientific validation basis for the ethnomedical use of A. sativum as a remedy to treat bacterial meningitis locally as anti-infectious agent.

ObjectivesRecent reports of an extremely heat resistant but non-pathogenic beef Escherichia coli strain, AW 1.7, raised concerns over the adequacy of cooking ground beef to 71°C in Canada. The objective of this study was to assess the adequacy of the current cooking recommendations for ground beef in relation to heat resistant E. coli.Materials and MethodsIn total, 8 potentially heat resistant E. coli strains (4 generic and 4 E. coli O157:H7) from beef along with E. coli AW1.7 were included in this study. Heat resistance of the strains was first evaluated by decimal reductions at 60°C (D60°C-value), the time required to have a log reduction of the bacterial population at 60°C. The more heat resistant strains of each group (E. coli 62 and 68, and E. coli O157 J3 and C37) were further assessed for their heat resistance when grown in Lennox Broth without salt (LB-NS), LB + 2% NaCl and Meat Juice (MJ). Then, the two most heat resistant E. coli O157 strains (J3 and C37) and E. coli AW 1.7 were each introduced to extra lean ground beef (100 g) in vacuum pouches for determination of their D-values at three temperatures, 54, 57, and 60°C, from which a z-value for each strain was derived. The thermal characteristics of all three strains were fed into a predictive model to determine the process lethality of cooking burgers to 71°C with resting for up to 5 min. Finally, inactivation of the most heat resistant E. coli strain AW1.7, assessed in this study and reported in the literature, in ground beef was validated by grilling burgers containing 6.20 ± 0.24 log CFU/g of the organism to 71°C without or with a resting of 3 or 5 min.ResultsThe D60°C-values for these strains varied from 1.3 to 9.0 min, with J3 and AW1.7 being the least and most heat resistant strains, respectively. The D60°C-values for E. coli 62 and 68 were similar and were not affected by growth medium, while the heat resistance of C37, J3 and AW1.7 varied with the growth medium. When heated in extra lean ground beef (100 g) in vacuum pouches, the mean D54°C, D57°C, and D60°C-values were 44.8, 18.6 and 2.9 min for C37, 13.8, 6.9 and 0.9 min for J3, and 40.5, 9.1 6.1 min for AW1.7. The derived z- and D71°C-values were, respectively, 5.0, 5.1 and 7.3°C; and 0.022, 0.008, and 0.156 min. Burger temperatures continued to rise after being removed from heat when the target temperature was reached, by up to 5°C, and resting of 1 min would result in a destruction of 133, 374, and 14 log C37, J3 and AW1.7, estimated from process lethality. When burgers inoculated with AW1.7 were cooked to 71°C, 14 of the 15 burgers yielded no E. coli, while the 15th had a reduction of 4.5 log. Additional resting of 3 or 5 min resulted in complete elimination of AW 1.7.ConclusionIt has been predicted that 2% of E. coli from beef may carry heat resistant genes. The findings in this study, along with the very low level of total E. coli expected in ground beef in Canada, suggest that cooking ground beef to 71°C should be adequate to ensure the safety of such products.

Iain Sinclair is a writer who is synonymous with a city. Sinclair’s sustained literary engagement with London from the mid 1960s has produced a singular account of place in that city (Bond; Baker; Seale “Iain Sinclair”). Sinclair is a leading figure in a resurgent and rebranded psychogeographic literature of the 1990s (Coverley) where on-foot wandering through the city brings forth narrative. Sinclair’s wandering, materialised as walking, is central to the claim of intimacy with the city that underpins his authority as a London writer. Furthermore, embodied encounters with the urban landscape through the experience of “getting lost” in urban environments are key to his literary methodology. Through works such as Lights Out for the Territory (2007), Sinclair has been repeatedly cast as a key chronicler of London, a city focused with capitalist determination on the future while redolent, even weighted, with a past that, as Sinclair says himself, is there for the wanderer to uncover (Dirda).In this essay, we examine how Sinclair’s wandering makes place in London. We are interested not only in Sinclair’s wandering as a spatial or cultural “intervention” in the city, as it is frequently positioned in critiques of his writing (Wolfreys). We are also interested in how Sinclair’s literary methodology of wandering undertakes its own work of placemaking in material ways that are often obscured because of how his work is positioned within particular traditions of wandering, including those of psychogeography and the flâneur. It is our contention that Sinclair’s wandering has an ambivalent relationship with place in London. It belongs to the tradition of the wanderer as a radical outsider with an alternative practice and perspective on place, but also contributes to contemporary placemaking in a global, neo-liberal London.Wandering as Literary MethodologyIain Sinclair’s writing about London is considered both “visionary” and “documentary” in its ambitions and has been praised as “giving voice to lost, erased, or forgotten histories or memories” (Baker 63). Sinclair is the “raging prophet” (Kerr) for a transforming and disappearing city. This perspective is promulgated by Sinclair himself, who in interviews refers to his practice as “bearing witness” to the erasures of particular place cultures, communities, and their histories that a rapidly gentrifying city entails (Sinclair quoted in O’Connell). The critical reception of Sinclair’s perambulation mostly follows Michel de Certeau’s observation that walking is a kind of reading/writing practice that “makes the invisible legible” (Baker 28). Sinclair’s wandering, and the encounters it mobilises, are a form of storytelling, which bring into proximity complex and forgotten narratives of place.Sinclair may “dive in” to the city, yet his work writing and rewriting urban space is usually positioned as representational. London is a text, “a system of signs […], the material city becoming the (non-material) map” (Baker 29). Sinclair’s wandering is understood as writing about urban transformation in London, rather than participating in it through making place. The materiality of Sinclair’s wandering in the city—his walking, excavating, encountering—may be acknowledged, but it is effectively dematerialised by the critical focus on his self-conscious literary treatment of place in London. Simon Perril has called Sinclair a “modernist magpie” (312), both because his mode of intertextuality borrows from Modernist experiments in form, style, and allusion, and because the sources of many of his intertexts are Modernist writers. Sinclair mines a rich seam of literature, Modernist and otherwise, that is produced in and about London, as well as genealogies of other legendary London wanderers. The inventory includes: “the rich midden of London’s sub-cultural fiction, terse proletarian narratives of lives on the criminous margin” (Sinclair Lights Out, 312) in the writing of Alexander Baron and Emanuel Litvinoff; the small magazine poetry of the twentieth century British Poetry Revival; and the forgotten suburban writings of David Gascoyne, “a natural psychogeographer, tracking the heat spores of Rimbaud, from the British Museum to Wapping and Limehouse” (Atkins and Sinclair 146). Sinclair’s intertextual “loiterature” (Chambers), his wayward, aleatory wandering through London’s archives, is one of two interconnected types of wandering in Sinclair’s literary methodology. The other is walking through the city. In a 2017 interview, Sinclair argued that the two were necessarily interconnected in writing about place in London:The idea of writing theoretical books about London burgeoned as a genre. At the same time, the coffee table, touristy books about London emerged—the kinds of books that can be written on Google, rather than books that are written by people of the abyss. I’m interested in someone who arrives and takes this journey into the night side of London in the tradition of Mayhew or Dickens, who goes out there and is constantly wandering and finding and having collisions and bringing back stories and shaping a narrative. There are other people who are doing things in a similar way, perhaps with a more journalistic approach, finding people and interviewing them and taking their stories. But many books about London are very conceptual and just done by doing research sitting at a laptop. I don’t think this challenges the city. It’s making a parallel city of the imagination, of literature. (Sinclair quoted in O'Connell)For Sinclair, then, walking is as much a literary methodology as reading, archival research, or intertextuality is.Wandering as Urban InterventionPerhaps one of Sinclair’s most infamous walks is recorded in London Orbital (2003), where he wandered the 127 miles of London’s M25 ring road. London Orbital is Sinclair’s monumental jeremiad against the realpolitik of late twentieth-century neo-liberalism and the politicised spatialisation and striation of London by successive national and local governments. The closed loop of the M25 motorway recommends itself to governmental bodies as a regulated form that functions as “a prophylactic, […] a tourniquet” (1) controlling the flow (with)in and (with)out of London. Travellers’ movements are impeded when the landscape is cut up by the motorway. Walking becomes a marginalised activity it its wake, and the surveillance and distrust to which Sinclair is subject realises the concerns foreshadowed by Walter Benjamin regarding the wanderings of the flâneur. In the Arcades Project, Benjamin quoted a 1936 newspaper article, pessimistically titled “Le dernier flâneur” [The last flâneur]:A man who goes for a walk ought not to have to concern himself with any hazards he may run into, or with the regulations of a city. […] But he cannot do this today without taking a hundred precautions, without asking the advice of the police department, without mixing with a dazed and breathless herd, for whom the way is marked out in advance by bits of shining metal. If he tries to collect the whimsical thoughts that may have come to mind, very possibly occasioned by sights on the street, he is deafened by car horns, [and] stupefied by loud talkers […]. (Jaloux, quoted in Benjamin 435)Susan Buck-Morss remarks that flâneurs are an endangered species in the contemporary city: “like tigers, or pre-industrial tribes, [they] are cordoned off on reservations, preserved within the artificially created environments of pedestrian streets, parks, and underground passages” (344). To wander from these enclosures, or from delineated paths, is to invite suspicion as the following unexceptional anecdote from London Orbital illustrates:NO PUBLIC RITE [sic] OF WAY. Footpaths, breaking towards the forest, have been closed off. You are obliged to stick to the Lee Navigation, the contaminated ash conglomerate of the Grey Way. Enfield has been laid out in grids; long straight roads, railways, fortified blocks. […] In a canalside pub, they deny all knowledge of the old trace. Who walks? “There used to be a road,” they admit. It’s been swallowed up in this new development, Enfield Island Village. […] The hard hat mercenaries of Fairview New Homes […] are suspicious of our cameras. Hands cover faces. Earth-movers rumble straight at us. A call for instruction muttered into their lapels: “Strangers. Travellers.” (69-70)There is an excess to wandering, leading to incontinent ideas, extreme verbiage, compulsive digression, excessive quotation. De Certeau in his study of the correlation between navigating urban and textual space speaks of “the unlimited diversity” of the walk, highlighting its improvised nature, and the infinite possibilities it proposes. Footsteps are equated with thoughts, multiplying unchecked: “They are myriad, but do not compose a series. […] Their swarming mass is an innumerable collection of singularities” (97). Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, the erratic trajectories, digression, and diversion of Sinclair’s wanderings are aligned with a tradition of the flâneur as homo ludens (Huizinga) or practitioner of the Situationist derive, as theorised by Guy Debord:The dérive entails playful-constructive behaviour and awareness of psychogeographical effects, which completely distinguishes it from the classical notions of the journey or the stroll. In a dérive one or more persons during a certain period drop their usual motives for movement and action, their relations, their work and leisure activities, and let themselves be drawn by the attractions of the terrain and the encounters they find there. The element of chance is less determinant than one might think: from the dérive point of view, cities have a psychogeographical relief, with constant currents, fixed points and vortexes that strongly discourage entry into or exit from certain zones. (“Theory of the dérive” 50)Like Charles Baudelaire’s painter of modern life, Sinclair is happily susceptible to distraction. The opening essay of Lights Out is a journey through London with the ostensible purpose of diligently researching and reporting on the language he detects on his travels. However, the map for the walk is only ever half-hearted, and Sinclair admits to “hoping for some accident to bring about a final revision” (5). Sinclair’s walks welcome the random and when he finds the detour to disfigure his route, he is content: “Already the purity of the [walk] has been despoiled. Good” (8). Wandering’s Double Agent: Sinclair’s Placemaking in LondonMuch has been made of the flâneur as he appears in Sinclair’s work (Seale “Eye-Swiping”). Nevertheless, Sinclair echoes Walter Benjamin in declaring the flâneur, as previously stereotyped, to be impossible in the contemporary city. The fugeur is one détournement (Debord “Détournement”) of the flâneur that Sinclair proposes. In London Orbital, Sinclair repeatedly refers to his wandering as a fugue. A fugue is defined in the Oxford English Dictionary as a “flight from or loss of the awareness of one’s identity, sometimes involving wandering away from home, and often occurring as a reaction to shock or emotional stress.” As Sinclair explains:I found the term fugueur more attractive than the now overworked flâneur. Fugueur had the smack of a swear word […]. Fugueur was the right job description for our walk, our once-a-month episodes of transient mental illness. Madness as a voyage. […] The fugue is both drift and fracture. (London Orbital, 146)Herbert Marcuse observed that to refuse to comply with capitalist behaviour is to be designated irrational, and thus relegate oneself to the periphery of society (9). The neo-liberal city’s enforcement of particular spatial and temporal modalities that align with the logic of purpose, order, and productivity is antagonistic to wandering. The fugue state, then, can rupture the restrictive logic of capitalism’s signifying chains through regaining forcibly expurgated ideas and memories. The walk around the M25 has an unreason to it: the perversity of wandering a thoroughfare designed for cars. In another, oft-quoted passage from Lights Out, Sinclair proposes another avatar of the flâneur:The concept of “strolling”, aimless urban wandering […] had been superseded. We had moved into the age of the stalker; journeys made with intent—sharp-eyed and unsponsored. The stalker was our role model: purposed hiking, not dawdling, nor browsing. No time for the savouring of reflections in shop windows, admiration for Art Nouveau ironwork, attractive matchboxes rescued from the gutter. This was walking with a thesis. With a prey. […] The stalker is a stroller who sweats, a stroller who knows where he is going, but not why or how. (75)Not only has the flâneur evolved into something far more exacting and purposeful, but as we want to illuminate, the flâneur’s wandering has evolved into something more material than transforming urban experience and encounter into art or literature as Baudelaire described. In a recent interview, Sinclair stated: The walker exists in a long tradition, and, for me, it’s really vital to simply be out there every day—not only because it feels good, but because in doing it you contribute to the microclimate of the city. As you withdraw energy from the city, you are also giving energy back. People are noticing you. You’re doing something, you’re there, the species around you absorb your presence into it, and you become part of this animate entity called the city. (Sinclair quoted in O'Connell)Sinclair’s acknowledgement that he is acting upon the city through his wandering is also an acknowledgement of a material, grounded interplay between what Jonathan Raban has called the “soft” and the “hard” city: “The city as we might imagine it, the soft city of illusion, myth, aspiration, nightmare, is as real, maybe more real, than the hard city one can locate in maps and statistics, in monographs on urban sociology and demography and architecture” (quoted in Manley 6). Readers and critics may gravitate to the soft city of Sinclair, but as Donald puts it, “The challenge is to draw the connections between place, archive, and imagination, not only by tracing those links in literary representations of London, but also by observing and describing the social, cultural, and subjective functions of London literature and London imagery” (in Manley, 262).Sinclair’s most recent longform book, The Last London (2017), is bracketed at both beginning and end with the words from the diarist of the Great Fire of 1666, John Evelyn: “London was, but is no more.” Sinclair’s evocation of the disaster that razed seventeenth-century London is a declaration that twenty-first century London, too, has been destroyed. This time by an unsavoury crew of gentrifiers, property developers, politicians, hyper-affluent transplants, and the creative classes. Writers are a sub-category of this latter group. Ambivalence and complicity are always there for Sinclair. On the one hand, his wanderings have attributed cultural value to previously overlooked aspects of London by the very virtue of writing about them. On the other hand, Sinclair argues that the value of these parts of the city hinges on their neglect by the dominant culture, which, of course, is no longer possible when his writing illuminates them. Certainly, wandering the city excavating the secret histories of cities has acquired an elevated cultural currency since Sinclair started writing. In making the East End “so gothically juicy”, Sinclair inaugurated a stream of new imaginings from “young acolyte psychogeographers” (McKay). Moreover, McKay points out that “Sinclair once wryly noted that anywhere he ‘nominated’ soon became an estate agent vision of luxury lifestyle”.Iain Sinclair’s London wanderings, then, call for a recognition that is more-than-literary. They are what we have referred to elsewhere as “worldly texts” (Potter and Seale, forthcoming), texts that have more-than-literary effects and instead are materially entangled in generating transformative conditions of place. Our understanding sits alongside the insights of literary geography, especially Sheila Hones’s concept of the text as a “spatial event”. In this reckoning, texts are spatio-temporal happenings that are neither singular nor have one clear “moment” of emergence. Rather, texts come into being across time and space, and in this sense can be understood as assemblages that include geographical locations, material contexts, and networks of production and reception. Literary effects are materially, collaboratively, and spatially generated in the world and have “territorial consequences”, as Jon Anderson puts it (127). Sinclair’s writings, we contend, can be seen as materialising versions of place that operate outside the assemblage of “literary” production and realise spatial and socio-economic consequence.Sinclair’s work does more than mimetically reproduce a “lost” London, or angrily write against the grain of neo-liberal gentrification. It is, in a sense, a geographic constituent that cannot be disaggregated from the contemporary dynamics of the privileges and exclusions of city. This speaks to the author’s ambivalence about his role as a central figure in London writing. For example, it has been noted that Sinclair is “aware of the charge that he’s been responsible as anyone for the fetishization of London’s decrepitude, contributing to an aesthetic of urban decay that is now ubiquitous” (Day). Walking the East End in what he has claimed to be his “last” London book (2017), Sinclair is horrified by the prevalence of what he calls “poverty chic” at the erstwhile Spitalfields Market: a boutique called “Urban Decay” is selling high-end lipsticks with an optional eye makeover. Next door is the “Brokedown Palace […] offering expensive Patagonia sweaters and pretty colourful rucksacks.” Ironically, the aesthetics of decline and ruin that Sinclair has actively brought to public notice over the last thirty years are contributing to this urban renewal. It could also be argued that Sinclair’s wandering is guilty of “the violence of spokesmanship”, which sublimates the voices of others (Weston 274), and is surely no longer the voice of the wanderer as marginalised outsider. When textual actors become networked with place, there can be extra-textual consequences, such as Sinclair’s implication in the making of place in a globalised and gentrified London. It shifts understanding of Sinclair’s wandering from representational and hermeneutic interpretation towards materialism: from what wandering means to what wandering does. From this perspective, Sinclair’s wandering and writing does not end with the covers of his books. The multiple ontologies of Sinclair’s worldly texts expand and proliferate through the plurality of composing relations, which, in turn, produce continuous and diverse iterations in an actor-network with place in London. Sinclair’s wanderings produce an ongoing archive of the urban that continues to iteratively make place, through multiple texts and narrative engagements, including novels, non-fiction accounts, journalism, interviews, intermedia collaborations, and assembling with the texts of others—from the many other London authors to whom Sinclair refers, to the tour guides who lead Time Out walking tours of “Sinclair’s London”. Place in contemporary London therefore assembles across and through an actor-network in which Sinclair’s wandering participates. Ultimately, Sinclair’s wandering and placemaking affirm Manley’s statement that “the urban environment in which (and in response to which) so much of English literature has been written has itself been constructed in many respects by its representation in that literature—by the ideas, images, and styles created by writers who have experienced or inhabited it” (2).ReferencesAnderson, Jon. “Towards an Assemblage Approach to Literary Geography.” Literary Geographies 1.2 (2015): 120–137.Atkins, Marc and Iain Sinclair. Liquid City. London: Reaktion, 1999.Baker, Brian. Iain Sinclair. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007.Baudelaire, Charles. The Painter of Modern Life and Other Essays. Trans. and ed. Jonathan Mayne. London and New York: Phaidon, 1995.Benjamin, Walter. The Arcades Project. Trans. Howard Eiland and Kevin McLaughlin. Ed. Rolf Tiedmann. Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press, 2002.Bond, Robert. Iain Sinclair. Cambridge: Salt Publishing, 2005.Buck-Morss, Susan. The Dialectics of Seeing: Walter Benjamin and the Arcades Project. Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, 1989.Chambers, Russ. Loiterature. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1999.Coverley, Merlin. Psychogeography. Harpenden: Pocket Essentials, 2005.Day, Jon. “The Last London by Iain Sinclair Review—an Elegy for a City Now Lost.” The Guardian 27 Sep. 2017. 7 July 2017 <https://www.theguardian.com/books/2017/sep/27/last-london-iain-sinclair-review>.Debord, Guy. “Theory of the Dérive.” Situationist International Anthology. Trans. and ed. Ken Knabb. Berkeley, Calif.: Bureau of Public Secrets, 1981.———. “Détournement as Negation and Prelude.” Situationist International Anthology. Trans. and ed. Ken Knabb. Berkeley, Calif.: Bureau of Public Secrets, 1981.De Certeau, Michel. The Practice of Everyday Life. Trans. Steven Rendall. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1984.Dirda, Michael. “Modern Life, as Seen by a Writer without a Smart Phone.” The Washington Post 17 Jan. 2018. 4 July 2018 <https://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/books/modern-life-as-seen-by-an-artist-without-a-phone/2018/01/17/6d0b779c-fb07-11e7-8f66-2df0b94bb98a_story.html?noredirect=on&utm_term=.9333f36c6212>.Hones, Sheila. “Text as It Happens: Literary Geography.” Geography Compass 2.5 (2008): 301–1307.Huizinga, Johan. Homo Ludens: A Study of the Play-Element in Culture. Boston: Beacon Press, 1955.Kerr, Joe. “The Habit of Hackney: Joe Kerr on Iain Sinclair.” Architects’ Journal 11 Mar. 2009. 8 July 2017 <https://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/home/the-habit-of-hackney-joe-kerr-on-iain-sinclair/1995066.article>.Manley, Lawrence, ed. The Cambridge Companion to the Literature of London. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2011.Marcuse, Herbert. One-Dimensional Man. London and New York: Routledge, 2002.McKay, Sinclair. “Is It Time for All Lovers of London to Pack up?” The Spectator 2 Sep. 2017. 6 July 2018 <https://www.spectator.co.uk/2017/09/is-it-time-for-all-lovers-of-london-to-pack-up/>.O’Connell, Teresa. “Iain Sinclair: Walking Is a Democracy.” Guernica 16 Nov. 2017. 7 July 2018 <https://www.guernicamag.com/iain-sinclair-walking-democracy/>.Perril, Simon. “A Cartography of Absence: The Work of Iain Sinclair.” Comparative Criticism 19 (1997): 309–339.Potter, Emily, and Kirsten Seale. “The Worldly Text and the Production of More-than-Literary Place: Helen Garner’s Monkey Grip and Melbourne’s ‘Inner North’”. Cultural Geographies (forthcoming 2019).Seale, Kirsten. “‘Eye-Swiping’ London: Iain Sinclair, Photography and the Flâneur.” Literary London 3.2 (2005).———. “Iain Sinclair’s Archive.” Sydney Review of Books. 10 Sep. 2018. 12 July 2019 <https://sydneyreviewofbooks.com/sinclair-last-london/>.Sinclair, Iain. Dining on Stones, or, The Middle Ground. London: Hamish Hamilton, 2004.———. Lights Out for the Territory. London: Granta, 1997.———. London Orbital. London: Penguin, 2003.———. The Last London: True Fictions from an Unreal City. London: Oneworld Publications, 2017.Weston, Daniel. “‘Against the Grand Project’: Iain Sinclair’s Local London.” Contemporary Literature 56.2 (2015): 255–280. Wolfreys, Julian. Writing London: Materiality, Memory, Spectrality Volume 2. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2004.

At a time when a trip abroad was out of the reach of most women, even if they could not make the journey, Australian women could imagine “abroad” just by reading popular women’s magazines such as Woman (later Woman’s Day and Home then Woman’s Day) and The Australian Women’s Weekly, and journals, such as The Progressive Woman and The Housewife. Increasingly in the post-war period, these magazines and journals contained advertisements for holidaying abroad, recipes for international foods and articles on overseas fashions. It was not unusual for local manufacturers, to use the lure of travel and exotic places as a way of marketing their goods. Healing Bicycles, for example, used the slogan “In Venice men go to work on Gondolas: In Australia it’s a Healing” (“Healing Cycles” 40), and Exotiq cosmetics featured landscapes of countries where Exotiq products had “captured the hearts of women who treasured their loveliness: Cincinnati, Milan, New York, Paris, Geneva and Budapest” (“Exotiq Cosmetics” 36).Unlike Homer’s Penelope, who stayed at home for twenty years waiting for Odysseus to return from the Trojan wars, women have always been on the move to the same extent as men. Their rich travel stories (Riggal, Haysom, Lancaster)—mostly written as letters and diaries—remain largely unpublished and their experiences are not part of the public record to the same extent as the travel stories of men. Ros Pesman argues that the women traveller’s voice was one of privilege and authority full of excitement and disbelief (Pesman 26). She notes that until well into the second part of the twentieth century, “the journey for Australian women to Europe was much more than a return to the sources of family identity and history” (19). It was also:a pilgrimage to the centres and sites of culture, literature and history and an encounter with “the real world.”Europe, and particularly London,was also the place of authority and reference for all those seeking accreditation and recognition, whether as real writers, real ladies or real politicians and statesmen. (19)This article is about two Australian writers; Helen Seager, a journalist employed by The Argus, a daily newspaper in Melbourne Australia, and Gwen Hughes, a graduate of Emily McPherson College of Domestic Economy in Melbourne, working in England as a lecturer, demonstrator and cookbook writer for Parkinsons’ Stove Company. Helen Seager travelled to England on an assignment for The Argus in 1950 and sent articles each day for publication in the women’s section of the newspaper. Gwen Hughes travelled extensively in the Balkans in the 1930s recording her impressions, observations, and recipes for traditional foods whilst working for Parkinsons in England. These women were neither returning to the homeland for an encounter with the real world, nor were they there as cultural tourists in the Cook’s Tour sense of the word. They were professional writers and their observations about the places they visited offer fresh and lively versions of England and Europe, its people, places, and customs.Helen SeagerAustralian Journalist Helen Seager (1901–1981) wrote a daily column, Good Morning Ma’am in the women’s pages of The Argus, from 1947 until shortly after her return from abroad in 1950. Seager wrote human interest stories, often about people of note (Golding), but with a twist; a Baroness who finds knitting exciting (Seager, “Baroness” 9) and ballet dancers backstage (Seager, “Ballet” 10). Much-loved by her mainly female readership, in May 1950 The Argus sent her to England where she would file a daily report of her travels. Whilst now we take travel for granted, Seager was sent abroad with letters of introduction from The Argus, stating that she was travelling on a special editorial assignment which included: a certificate signed by the Lord Mayor of The City of Melbourne, seeking that any courtesies be extended on her trip to England, the Continent, and America; a recommendation from the Consul General of France in Australia; and introductions from the Premier’s Department, the Premier of Victoria, and Austria’s representative in Australia. All noted the nature of her trip, her status as an esteemed reporter for a Melbourne newspaper, and requested that any courtesy possible to be made to her.This assignment was an indication that The Argus valued its women readers. Her expenses, and those of her ten-year-old daughter Harriet, who accompanied her, were covered by the newspaper. Her popularity with her readership is apparent by the enthusiastic tone of the editorial article covering her departure. Accompanied with a photograph of Seager and Harriet boarding the aeroplane, her many women readers were treated to their first ever picture of what she looked like:THOUSANDS of "Argus" readers, particularly those in the country, have wanted to know what Helen Seager looks like. Here she is, waving good-bye as she left on the first stage of a trip to England yesterday. She will be writing her bright “Good Morning, Ma'am” feature as she travels—giving her commentary on life abroad. (The Argus, “Goodbye” 1)Figure 1. Helen Seager and her daughter Harriet board their flight for EnglandThe first article “From Helen in London” read,our Helen Seager, after busy days spent exploring England with her 10-year-old daughter, Harriet, today cabled her first “Good Morning, Ma’am” column from abroad. Each day from now on she will report from London her lively impressions in an old land, which is delightfully new to her. (Seager, “From Helen” 3)Whilst some of her dispatches contain the impressions of the awestruck traveller, for the most they are exquisitely observed stories of the everyday and the ordinary, often about the seemingly most trivial of things, and give a colourful, colonial and egalitarian impression of the places that she visits. A West End hair-do is described, “as I walked into that posh looking establishment, full of Louis XV, gold ornateness to be received with bows from the waist by numerous satellites, my first reaction was to turn and bolt” (Seager, “West End” 3).When she visits Oxford’s literary establishments, she is, for this particular article, the awestruck Australian:In Oxford, you go around saying, soto voce and aloud, “Oh, ye dreaming spires of Oxford.” And Matthew Arnold comes alive again as a close personal friend.In a weekend, Ma’am, I have seen more of Oxford than lots of native Oxonians. I have stood and brooded over the spit in Christ Church College’s underground kitchens on which the oxen for Henry the Eighth were roasted.I have seen the Merton Library, oldest in Oxford, in which the chains that imprisoned the books are still to be seen, and have added by shoe scrape to the stone steps worn down by 500 years of walkers. I have walked the old churches, and I have been lost in wonder at the goodly virtues of the dead. And then, those names of Oxford! Holywell, Tom’s Quad, Friars’ Entry, and Long Wall. The gargoyles at Magdalen and the stones untouched by bombs or war’s destruction. It adds a new importance to human beings to know that once, if only, they too have walked and stood and stared. (Seager, “From Helen” 3)Her sense of wonder whilst in Oxford is, however, moderated by the practicalities of travel incorporated into the article. She continues to describe the warnings she was given, before her departure, of foreign travel that had her alarmed about loss and theft, and the care she took to avoid both. “It would have made you laugh, Ma’am, could you have seen the antics to protect personal property in the countries in transit” (Seager, “From Helen” 3).Her description of a trip to Blenheim Palace shows her sense of fun. She does not attempt to describe the palace or its contents, “Blenheim Palace is too vast and too like a great Government building to arouse much envy,” settling instead on a curiosity should there be a turn of events, “as I surged through its great halls with a good-tempered, jostling mob I couldn’t help wondering what those tired pale-faced guides would do if the mob mood changed and it started on an old-fashioned ransack.” Blenheim palace did not impress her as much as did the Sunday crowd at the palace:The only thing I really took a fancy to were the Venetian cradle, which was used during the infancy of the present Duke and a fine Savvonerie carpet in the same room. What I never wanted to see again was the rubbed-fur collar of the lady in front.Sunday’s crowd was typically English, Good tempered, and full of Cockney wit, and, if you choose to take your pleasures in the mass, it is as good a company as any to be in. (Seager, “We Look” 3)In a description of Dublin and the Dubliners, Seager describes the food-laden shops: “Butchers’ shops leave little room for customers with their great meat carcasses hanging from every hook. … English visitors—and Dublin is awash with them—make an orgy of the cakes that ooze real cream, the pink and juicy hams, and the sweets that demand no points” (Seager, “English” 6). She reports on the humanity of Dublin and Dubliners, “Dublin has a charm that is deep-laid. It springs from the people themselves. Their courtesy is overlaid with a real interest in humanity. They walk and talk, these Dubliners, like Kings” (ibid.).In Paris she melds the ordinary with the noteworthy:I had always imagined that the outside of the Louvre was like and big art gallery. Now that I know it as a series of palaces with courtyards and gardens beyond description in the daytime, and last night, with its cleverly lighted fountains all aplay, its flags and coloured lights, I will never forget it.Just now, down in the street below, somebody is packing the boot of a car to go for, presumably, on a few days’ jaunt. There is one suitcase, maybe with clothes, and on the footpath 47 bottles of the most beautiful wines in the world. (Seager, “When” 3)She writes with a mix of awe and ordinary:My first glimpse of that exciting vista of the Arc de Triomphe in the distance, and the little bistros that I’ve always wanted to see, and all the delights of a new city, […] My first day in Paris, Ma’am, has not taken one whit from the glory that was London. (ibid.) Figure 2: Helen Seager in ParisIt is my belief that Helen Seager intended to do something with her writings abroad. The articles have been cut from The Argus and pasted onto sheets of paper. She has kept copies of the original reports filed whist she was away. The collection shows her insightful egalitarian eye and a sharp humour, a mix of awesome and commonplace.On Bastille Day in 1950, Seager wrote about the celebrations in Paris. Her article is one of exuberant enthusiasm. She writes joyfully about sirens screaming overhead, and people in the street, and looking from windows. Her article, published on 19 July, starts:Paris Ma’am is a magical city. I will never cease to be grateful that I arrived on a day when every thing went wrong, and watched it blossom before my eyes into a gayness that makes our Melbourne Cup gala seem funeral in comparison.Today is July 14.All places of business are closed for five days and only the places of amusement await the world.Parisians are tireless in their celebrations.I went to sleep to the music of bands, dancing feet and singing voices, with the raucous but cheerful toots from motors splitting the night air onto atoms. (Seager, “When” 3)This article resonates uneasiness. How easily could those scenes of celebration on Bastille Day in 1950 be changed into the scenes of carnage on Bastille Day 2016, the cheerful toots of the motors transformed into cries of fear, the sirens in the sky from aeroplanes overhead into the sirens of ambulances and police vehicles, as a Mohamed Lahouaiej Bouhlel, as part of a terror attack drives a truck through crowds of people celebrating in Nice.Gwen HughesGwen Hughes graduated from Emily Macpherson College of Domestic Economy with a Diploma of Domestic Science, before she travelled to England to take up employment as senior lecturer and demonstrator of Parkinson’s England, a company that manufactured electric and gas stoves. Hughes wrote in her unpublished manuscript, Balkan Fever, that it was her idea of making ordinary cooking demonstration lessons dramatic and homelike that landed her the job in England (Hughes, Balkan 25-26).Her cookbook, Perfect Cooking, was produced to encourage housewives to enjoy cooking with their Parkinson’s modern cookers with the new Adjusto temperature control. The message she had to convey for Parkinsons was: “Cooking is a matter of putting the right ingredients together and cooking them at the right temperature to achieve a given result” (Hughes, Perfect 3). In reality, Hughes used this cookbook as a vehicle to share her interest in and love of Continental food, especially food from the Balkans where she travelled extensively in the 1930s.Recipes of Continental foods published in Perfect Cooking sit seamlessly alongside traditional British foods. The section on soup, for example, contains recipes for Borscht, a very good soup cooked by the peasants of Russia; Minestrone, an everyday Italian soup; Escudella, from Spain; and Cream of Spinach Soup from France (Perfect 22-23). Hughes devoted a whole chapter to recipes and descriptions of Continental foods labelled “Fascinating Foods From Far Countries,” showing her love and fascination with food and travel. She started this chapter with the observation:There is nearly as much excitement and romance, and, perhaps fear, about sampling a “foreign dish” for the “home stayer” as there is in actually being there for the more adventurous “home leaver”. Let us have a little have a little cruise safe within the comfort of our British homes. Let us try and taste the good things each country is famed for, all the while picturing the romantic setting of these dishes. (Hughes, Perfect 255)Through her recipes and descriptive passages, Hughes took housewives in England and Australia into the strange and wonderful kitchens of exotic women: Madame Darinka Jocanovic in Belgrade, Miss Anicka Zmelova in Prague, Madame Mrskosova at Benesova. These women taught her to make wonderful-sounding foods such as Apfel Strudel, Knedlikcy, Vanilla Kipfel and Christmas Stars. “Who would not enjoy the famous ‘Goose with Dumplings,’” she declares, “in the company of these gay, brave, thoughtful people with their romantic history, their gorgeously appareled peasants set in their richly picturesque scenery” (Perfect 255).It is Hughes’ unpublished manuscript Balkan Fever, written in Melbourne in 1943, to which I now turn. It is part of the Latrobe Heritage collection at the State Library of Victoria. Her manuscript was based on her extensive travels in the Balkans in the 1930s whilst she lived and worked in England, and it was, I suspect, her intention to seek publication.In her twenties, Hughes describes how she set off to the Balkans after meeting a fellow member of the Associated Country Women of the World (ACWW) at the Royal Yugoslav Legation. He was an expert on village life in the Balkans and advised her, that as a writer she would get more information from the local villagers than she would as a tourist. Hughes, who, before television gave cooking demonstrations on the radio, wrote, “I had been writing down recipes and putting them in books for years and of course the things one talks about over the air have to be written down first—that seemed fair enough” (Hughes, Balkan 25-26). There is nothing of the awestruck traveller in Hughes’ richly detailed observations of the people and the places that she visited. “Travelling in the Balkans is a very different affair from travelling in tourist-conscious countries where you just leave it to Cooks. You must either have unlimited time at your disposal, know the language or else have introductions that will enable the right arrangements to be made for you” (Balkan 2), she wrote. She was the experiential tourist, deeply immersed in her surroundings and recording food culture and society as it was.Hughes acknowledged that she was always drawn away from the cities to seek the real life of the people. “It’s to the country district you must go to find the real flavour of a country and the heart of its people—especially in the Balkans where such a large percentage of the population is agricultural” (Balkan 59). Her descriptions in Balkan Fever are a blend of geography, history, culture, national songs, folklore, national costumes, food, embroidery, and vivid observation of the everyday city life. She made little mention of stately homes or buildings. Her attitude to travel can be summed up in her own words:there are so many things to see and learn in the countries of the old world that, walking with eyes and mind wide open can be an immensely delightful pastime, even with no companion and nowhere to go. An hour or two spent in some unpretentious coffee house can be worth all the dinners at Quaglino’s or at The Ritz, if your companion is a good talker, a specialist in your subject, or knows something of the politics and the inner life of the country you are in. (Balkan 28)Rather than touring the grand cities, she was seduced by the market places with their abundance of food, colour, and action. Describing Sarajevo she wrote:On market day the main square is a blaze of colour and movement, the buyers no less colourful than the peasants who have come in from the farms around with their produce—cream cheese, eggs, chickens, fruit and vegetables. Handmade carpets hung up for sale against walls or from trees add their barbaric colour to the splendor of the scene. (Balkan 75)Markets she visited come to life through her vivid descriptions:Oh those markets, with the gorgeous colours, and heaped untidiness of the fruits and vegetables—paprika, those red and green peppers! Every kind of melon, grape and tomato contributing to the riot of colour. Then there were the fascinating peasant embroideries, laces and rich parts of old costumes brought in from the villages for sale. The lovely gay old embroideries were just laid out on a narrow carpet spread along the pavement or hung from a tree if one happened to be there. (Balkan 11)Perhaps it was her radio cooking shows that gave her the ability to make her descriptions sensorial and pictorial:We tasted luxurious foods, fish, chickens, fruits, wines, and liqueurs. All products of the country. Perfect ambrosial nectar of the gods. I was entirely seduced by the rose petal syrup, fragrant and aromatic, a red drink made from the petals of the darkest red roses. (Balkan 151)Ordinary places and everyday events are beautifully realised:We visited the cheese factory amongst other things. … It was curious to see in that far away spot such a quantity of neatly arranged cheeses in the curing chamber, being prepared for export, and in another room the primitive looking round balls of creamed cheese suspended from rafters. Later we saw trains of pack horses going over the mountains, and these were probably the bearers of these cheeses to Bitolj or Skoplje, whence they would be consigned further for export. (Balkan 182)ConclusionReading Seager and Hughes, one cannot help but be swept along on their travels and take part in their journeys. What is clear, is that they were inspired by their work, which is reflected in the way they wrote about the places they visited. Both sought out people and places that were, as Hughes so vividly puts it, not part of the Cook’s Tour. They travelled with their eyes wide open for experiences that were both new and normal, making their writing relevant even today. Written in Paris on Bastille Day 1950, Seager’s Bastille Day article is poignant when compared to Bastille Day in France in 2016. Hughes’s descriptions of Sarajevo are a far cry from the scenes of destruction in that city between 1992 and 1995. The travel writing of these two women offers us vivid impressions and images of the often unreported events, places, daily lives, and industry of the ordinary and the then every day, and remind us that the more things change, the more they stay the same.Pesman writes, “women have always been on the move and Australian women have been as numerous as passengers on the outbound ships as have men” (20), but the records of their travels seldom appear on the public record. Whilst their work-related writings are part of the public record (see Haysom; Lancaster; Riggal), this body of women’s travel writing has not received the attention it deserves. Hughes’ cookbooks, with their traditional Eastern European recipes and evocative descriptions of people and kitchens, are only there for the researcher who knows that cookbooks are a trove of valuable social and cultural material. Digital copies of Seager’s writing can be accessed on Trove (a digital repository), but there is little else about her or her body of writing on the public record.ReferencesThe Argus. “Goodbye Ma’am.” 26 May 1950: 1. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/22831285?searchTerm=Goodbye%20Ma%E2%80%99am%E2%80%99&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=195>.“Exotiq Cosmetics.” Advertisement. Woman 20 Aug. 1945: 36.Golding, Peter. “Just a Chattel of the Sale: A Mostly Light-Hearted Retrospective of a Diverse Life.” In Jim Usher, ed., The Argus: Life & Death of Newspaper. North Melbourne: Australian Scholarly Publishing 2007.Haysom, Ida. Diaries and Photographs of Ida Haysom. <http://search.slv.vic.gov.au/MAIN:Everything:SLV_VOYAGER1637361>.“Healing Cycles.” Advertisement. Woman 27 Aug. 1945: 40. Hughes, Gwen. Balkan Fever. Unpublished Manuscript. State Library of Victoria, MS 12985 Box 3846/4. 1943.———. Perfect Cooking London: Parkinsons, c1940.Lancaster, Rosemary. Je Suis Australienne: Remarkable Women in France 1880-1945. Crawley WA: UWA Press, 2008.Pesman, Ros. “Overseas Travel of Australian Women: Sources in the Australian Manuscripts Collection of the State Library of Victoria.” The Latrobe Journal 58 (Spring 1996): 19-26.Riggal, Louie. (Louise Blanche.) Diary of Italian Tour 1905 February 21 - May 1. <http://search.slv.vic.gov.au/MAIN:Everything:SLV_VOYAGER1635602>.Seager, Helen. “Ballet Dancers Backstage.” The Argus 10 Aug. 1944: 10. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/11356057?searchTerm=Ballet%20Dancers%20Backstage&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=194>.———. “The Baroness Who Finds Knitting Exciting.” The Argus 1 Aug. 1944: 9. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/11354557?searchTerm=Helen%20seager%20Baroness&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=194>.———. “English Visitors Have a Food Spree in Eire.” The Argus 29 Sep. 1950: 6. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/22912011?searchTerm=English%20visitors%20have%20a%20spree%20in%20Eire&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=195>.———. “From Helen in London.” The Argus 20 June 1950: 3. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/22836738?searchTerm=From%20Helen%20in%20London&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=195>.———. “Helen Seager Storms Paris—Paris Falls.” The Argus 15 July 1950: 7.<http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/22906913?searchTerm=Helen%20Seager%20Storms%20Paris%E2%80%99&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=195>.———. “We Look over Blenheim Palace.” The Argus 28 Sep. 1950: 3. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/22902040?searchTerm=Helen%20Seager%20Its%20as%20a%20good%20a%20place%20as%20you%20would%20want%20to%20be&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=195>.———. “West End Hair-Do Was Fun.” The Argus 3 July 1950: 3. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/22913940?searchTerm=West%20End%20hair-do%20was%20fun%E2%80%99&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=195>.———. “When You Are in Paris on July 14.” The Argus 19 July 1950: 3. <http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/22906244?searchTerm=When%20you%20are%20in%20Paris%20on%20July%2014&searchLimits=l-title=13|||l-decade=195>.

There have been a number of Australian memoirs written by adoptees over the last twenty years—Robert Dessaix’s A Mother’s Disgrace, Suzanne Chick’s Searching for Charmian, Tom Frame’s Binding Ties:An Experience of Adoption and Reunion in Australia, for example—as well as international adoptee narratives by Betty Jean Lifton, Florence Fisher, and A. M. Homes amongst others. These works form a component of the small but growing field of adoption life writing that includes works by “all members of the adoption triad” (Hipchen and Deans 163): adoptive parents, birthparents, and adoptees. As the broad genre of memoir becomes more theorised and mapped, many sub-genres are emerging (Brien). My own adoptee story (which I am currently composing) could be a further sub-categorisation of the adoptee memoir, that of “late discovery adoptees” (Perl and Markham), those who are either told, or find out, about their adoption in adulthood. When this is part of a life story, secrets and silences are prominent, and digging into these requires using whatever resources can be found. These include cookbooks, recipes written by hand, and the scraps of paper shoved between pages. There are two cookbooks from my adoptive mother’s belongings that I have kept. One of them is titled Miss Tuxford’s Modern Cookery for the Middle Classes: Hints on Modern Gas Stove Cooking, and this was published around 1937 in England. It’s difficult to date this book exactly, as there is no date in my copy, but one of the advertisements (for Bird’s Custard, I think; the page is partly obscured by an Orange Nut Loaf recipe from a Willow baking pan that has been glued onto the page) is headed with a date range of 1837 to 1937. It has that smell of long ago that lingers strongly even now, out of the protective custody of my mother’s storage. Or should I say, out of the range of my adoptive father’s garbage dump zeal. He loved throwing things away, but these were often things that I saw as valuable, or at least of sentimental value, worth keeping for the memories they evoked. Maybe my father didn’t want to remember. My mother was brimming with memories, I discovered after her death, but she did not reveal them during her life. At least, not to me, making objects like these cookbooks precious in my reconstruction of the lives I know so little about, as well as in the grieving process (Gibson).Miss Tuxford (“Diplomée Board of Education, Gold Medallist, etc”) produced numerous editions of her book. My mother’s is now fragile, loose at the spine and browned with age. There are occasional stains showing that the bread and cakes section got the most use, with the pages for main meals of meat and vegetables relatively clean. The author divided her recipes into the main chapters of Soups (lentil, kidney, sheep’s head broth), Sauces (white, espagnol, mushroom), Fish (“It is important that all fish is fresh when cooked” (23)), Meats (roasted, boiled, stuffed; roast rabbit, boiled turkey, scotch collop), Vegetables (creamed beetroot, economical salad dressing, potatoes baked in their skins), Puddings and Sweets (suet pastry, Yorkshire pudding, chocolate tarts, ginger cream), Bread and Cakes (household bread, raspberry sandwich cake, sultana scones, peanut fancies), Icings and Fillings, Invalid Cookery (beef tea, nourishing lemonade, Virol pudding), Jams, Sweetmeats and Pickles (red currant jelly, piccalilli) and Miscellaneous Dishes including Meatless Recipes (cheese omelette, mock white fish, mock duck, mock goose, vegetarian mincemeat). At the back, Miss Tuxford includes sections on gas cooking hints, “specimen household dinners” (206), and household hints. There is then a “Table of Foods in Season” (208–10) taking the reader through the months and the various meats and vegetables available at those times. There is a useful index and finally an advertisement for an oven cleaner on the last page (which is glued to the back cover). There are food and cookery advertisements throughout the book, but my favourite is the one inside the front cover, for Hartley’s jam, featuring two photographs of a little boy. The first shows him looking serious, and slightly anxious, the second wide-eyed and smiling, eager for his jam. The text tells mothers that “there’s nothing like plenty of bread and Hartley’s for a growing boy” (inside front cover). I love the simple appeal to making your little boy happy that is contained within this tiny narrative. Did my mother and father eat this jam when they were small? By 1937, my mother was twenty-one, not yet married, living with her mother in Weston-super-Mare. She was learning secretarial skills—I have her certificate of proficiency in Pitman’s shorthand—and I think she and my father had met by then. Perhaps she thought about when she would be giving her own children Hartley’s jam, or something else prepared from Miss Tuxford’s recipes, like the Christmas puddings, shortbread, or chocolate cake. She would not have imagined that no children would arrive, that twenty-five years of marriage would pass before she held her own baby, and this would be one who was born to another woman. In the one other cookbook I have kept, there are several recipes cut out from newspapers, and a few typed or handwritten recipes hidden within the pages. This is The Main Cookery Book, in its August 1944 reprint, which was written and compiled by Marguerite K. Gompertz and the “Staff of the Main Research Kitchen”. My mother wrote her name and the date she obtained the cookbook (31 January 1945) on the first blank page. She had been married just over five years, and my father may, or may not, have still been in the Royal Air Force. I have only a sketchy knowledge of my adoptive parents. My mother was born in Newent, Gloucestershire, and my father in Bromley, Kent; they were both born during the first world war. My father served as a navigator in the Royal Air Force in the second world war in the 1940s, received head and psychological injuries and was invalided out before the war ended. He spent some time in rehabilitation, there being letters from him to my mother detailing his stay in one hospital in the 1950s. Their life seemed to become less and less secure as the years passed, more chaotic, restless, and unsettled. By the time I came into their lives, they were both nearly fifty, and moving from place to place. Perhaps this is one reason why I have no memory of my mother cooking. I cannot picture her consulting these cookbooks, or anything more modern, or even cutting out the recipes from newspapers and magazines, because I do not remember seeing her do it. She did not talk to me about cooking, we didn’t cook together, and I do not remember her teaching me anything about food or its preparation. This is a gap in my memory that is puzzling. There is evidence—the books and additional paper recipes and stains on the pages—that my mother was involved in the world of the kitchen. This suggests she handled meats, vegetables, and flours, kneaded, chopped, mashed, baked, and boiled all manners of foods. But I cannot remember her doing any of it. I think the cooking must have been a part of her life before me, when she lived in England, her home country, which she loved, and when she still had hope that children would come. It must have then been apparent that her husband was going to need support and care after the war, and I can imagine she came to realise that any dreams she had would need rearranging.What I do remember is that our meals were prepared by my father, and contained no spices, onions, or garlic because he suffered frequently from indigestion and said these ingredients made it worse. He was a big-chested man with small hips who worried he was too heavy and so put himself on diets every other week. For my father, dieting meant not eating anything, which tended to lead to binges on chocolate or cheese or whatever he could grab easily from the fridge.Meals at night followed a pattern. On Sundays we ate roast chicken with vegetables as a treat, then finished it over the next days as a cold accompaniment with salad. Other meals would feature fish fingers, mince, ham, or a cold luncheon meat with either salad or boiled vegetables. Sometimes we would have a tin of peaches in juice or ice cream, or both. No cookbooks were consulted to prepare these meals.What was my mother doing while my father cooked? She must have been in the kitchen too, probably contributing, but I don’t see her there. By the time we came back to Australia permanently in 1974, my father’s working life had come to an end, and he took over the household cookery for something to do, as well as sewing his own clothes, and repairing his own car. He once hoisted the engine out of a Morris Minor with the help of a young mechanic, a rope, and the branch of a poinciana tree. I have three rugs that he wove before I was born, and he made furniture as well. My mother also sewed, and made my school uniforms and other clothes as well as her own skirts and blouses, jackets and pants. Unfortunately, she was fond of crimplene, which came in bright primary colours and smelled of petrol, but didn’t require ironing and dried quickly on the washing line. It didn’t exactly hang on your body, but rather took it over, imposing itself with its shapelessness. The handwritten recipe for salad cream shown on the pink paper is not in my mother’s hand but my father’s. Her correction can be seen to the word “gelatine” at the bottom; she has replaced it with “c’flour” which I assume means cornflour. This recipe actually makes me a liar, because it shows my father writing about using pepper, paprika, and tumeric to make a food item, when I have already said he used no spices. When I knew him, and ate his food, he didn’t. But he had another life for forty-seven years before my birth, and these recipes with their stains and scribbles help me to begin making a picture of both his life, and my mother’s. So much of them is a complete mystery to me, but these scraps of belongings help me inch along in my thinking about them, who they were, and what they meant to me (Turkle).The Main Cookery Book has a similar structure to Miss Tuxford’s, with some variations, like the chapter titled Réchauffés, which deals with dishes using already cooked foodstuffs that only then require reheating, and a chapter on home-made wines. There are also notes at the end of the book on topics such as gas ovens and methods of cooking (boiling, steaming, simmering, and so on). What really interests me about this book are the clippings inserted by my mother, although the printed pages themselves seem relatively clean and uncooked upon. There is a recipe for pickles and chutneys torn from a newspaper, and when I look on the other side I find a context: a note about Charlie Chaplin and the House of Representatives’s Un-American Activities Committee starting its investigations into the influence of Communists on Hollywood. I wonder if my parents talked about these events, or if they went to see Charlie Chaplin’s films. My mother’s diaries from the 1940s include her references to movies—Shirley Temple in Kiss and Tell, Bing Crosby in Road to Utopia—as well as day to day activities and visits to, and from, family and friends, her sinus infections and colds, getting “shock[ed] from paraffin lamp”, food rationing. If my father kept diaries during his earlier years, nothing of them survives. I remember his determined shredding of documents after my mother’s death, and his fear of discovery, that his life’s secrets would be revealed. He did not tell me I had been adopted until I was twenty-three, and rarely spoke of it afterwards. My mother never mentioned it. I look at the recipe for lemon curd. Did my mother ever make this? Did she use margarine instead of butter? We used margarine on sandwiches, as butter was too hard to spread. Once again, I turn over this clipping to read the news, and find no date but an announcement of an exhibition of work by Marc Chagall at the Tate Gallery, the funeral of Sir Geoffrey Fison (who I discover from The Peerage website died in 1948, unmarried, a Baronet and decorated soldier), and a memorial service for Dr. Duncan Campbell Scott, the Canadian poet and prose writer, during which the Poet Laureate of the time, John Masefield, gave the address. And there was also a note about the latest wills, including that of a reverend who left an estate valued at over £50 000. My maternal adoptive grandmother, who lived in Weston-super-Mare across the road from the beach, and with whom we stayed for several months in 1974, left most of her worldly belongings to my mother and nothing to her son. He seems to have been cut out from her life after she separated from her husband, and her children’s father, sometime in the 1920s. Apparently, my uncle followed his father out to Australia, and his mother never forgave him, refusing to have anything more to do with her son for the rest of her life, not even to see her grandchildren. When I knew her in that brief period in 1974, she was already approaching eighty and showing signs of dementia. But I do remember dancing the Charleston with her in the kitchen, and her helping me bathe my ragdoll Pollyanna in a tub in the garden. The only food I remember at her stone house was afternoon tea with lots of different, exotic cakes, particularly one called Neopolitan, with swirls of red and brown through the moist sponge. My grandmother had a long narrow garden filled with flowers and a greenhouse with tomatoes; she loved that garden, and spent a lot of time nurturing it.My father and his mother-in-law were not each other’s favourite person, and this coloured my mother’s relationship with her, too. We were poor for many years, and the only reason we were able to go to England was because of the generosity of my grandmother, who paid for our airfares. I think my father searched for work while we were there, but whether he was successful or not I do not know. We returned to Australia and I went into grade four at the end of 1974, an outsider of sorts, and bemused by the syllabus, because I had moved around so much. I went to eight different primary schools and two high schools, eventually obtaining a scholarship to a private girls’ school for the last four years. My father was intent on me becoming a doctor, and so my life was largely study, which is another reason why I took little notice of what went on in the kitchen and what appeared on the dining table. I would come home from school and my parents would start meal preparation almost straight away, so we sat down to dinner at about four o’clock during the week, and I started the night’s study at five. I usually worked through until about ten, and then read a novel for a little while before sleep. Every parcel of time was accounted for, and nothing was wasted. This schedule continued throughout those four years of high school, with my father berating me if I didn’t do well at an exam, but also being proud when I did. In grades eight, nine, and ten, I studied home economics, and remember being offered a zucchini to taste because I had never seen one before. I also remember making Greek biscuits of some sort for an exam, and the sieve giving out while I was sifting a large quantity of flour. We learned to cook simple meals of meats and vegetables, and to prepare a full breakfast. We also baked cakes but, when my sponges remained flat, I realised that my strengths might lay elsewhere. This probably also contributed to my lack of interest in cooking. Domestic pursuits were not encouraged at home, although my mother did teach me to sew and knit, resulting in skewed attempts at a shirt dress and a white blouse, and a wildly coloured knitted shoulder bag that I actually liked but which embarrassed my father. There were no such lessons in cakemaking or biscuit baking or any of the recipes from Miss Tuxford. By this time, my mother bought such treats from the supermarket.This other life, this previous life of my parents, a life far away in time and place, was completely unknown to me before my mother’s death. I saw little of them after the revelation of my adoption, not because of this knowledge I then had, but because of my father’s controlling behaviour. I discovered that the rest of my adoptive family, who I hardly knew apart from my maternal grandmother, had always known. It would have been difficult, after all, for my parents to keep such a secret from them. Because of this life of constant moving, my estrangement from my family, and our lack of friends and connections with other people, there was a gap in my experience. As a child, I only knew one grandmother, and only for a relatively brief period of time. I have no grandfatherly memories, and none either of aunts and uncles, only a few fleeting images of a cousin here and there. It was difficult to form friendships as a child when we were only in a place for a limited time. We were always moving on, and left everything behind, to start again in a new suburb, state, country. Continuity and stability were not our trademarks, for reasons that are only slowly making themselves known to me: my father’s mental health problems, his difficult personality, our lack of money, the need to keep my adoption secret.What was that need? From where did it spring? My father always seemed to be a secretive person, an intensely private man, one who had things to hide, and seemed to suffer many mistakes and mishaps and misfortune. At the end, after my mother’s death, we spent two years with each other as he became frailer and moved into a nursing home. It was a truce formed out of necessity, as there was no one else to care for him, so thoroughly had he alienated his family; he had no friends, certainly not in Australia, and only the doctor and helping professionals to talk to most days. My father’s brother John had died some years before, and the whereabouts of his other sibling Gordon were unknown. I discovered that he had died three years previously. Nieces had not heard from my father for decades. My mother’s niece revealed that my mother and she had never met. There is a letter from my mother’s father in the 1960s, probably just before he died, remarking that he would like a photograph of her as they hadn’t seen each other for forty years. None of this was talked about when my mother was alive. It was as if I was somehow separate from their stories, from their history, that it was not suitable for my ears, or that once I came into their lives they wanted to make a new life altogether. At that time, all of their past was stored away. Even my very origins, my tiny past life, were unspoken, and made into a secret. The trouble with secrets, however, is that they hang around, peek out of boxes, lurk in the corners of sentences, and threaten to be revealed by the questions of puzzled strangers, or mistakenly released by knowledgeable relatives. Adoptee memoirs like mine seek to go into those hidden storage boxes and the corners and pages of sources like these seemingly innocent old cookbooks, in the quest to bring these secrets to light. Like Miss Tuxford’s cookbook, with its stains and smudges, or the Main Cookery Book with its pages full of clippings, the revelation of such secrets threaten to tell stories that contradict the official version. ReferencesBrien, Donna Lee. “Pathways into an ‘Elaborate Ecosystem’: Ways of Categorising the Food Memoir”. TEXT (October 2011). 12 Jun. 2013 ‹http://www.textjournal.com.au/oct11/brien.htm›.Chick, Suzanne. Searching for Charmian. Sydney: Picador, 1995.Dessaix, Robert. A Mother’s Disgrace. Sydney: Angus & Robertson, 1994.Fisher, Florence. The Search for Anna Fisher. New York: Arthur Fields, 1973.Frame, Tom. Binding Ties: An Experience of Adoption and Reunion in Australia. Alexandria: Hale & Iremonger, 1999.Gibson, Margaret. Objects of the Dead: Mourning and Memory in Everyday Life. Carlton, Victoria: Melbourne U P, 2008. Gompertz, Marguerite K., and the Staff of the Main Research Kitchen. The Main Cookery Book. 52nd. ed. London: R. & A. Main, 1944. Hipchen, Emily, and Jill Deans. “Introduction. Adoption Life Writing: Origins and Other Ghosts”. a/b: Auto/Biography Studies 18.2 (2003): 163–70. Special Issue on Adoption.Homes, A. M. The Mistress’s Daughter: A Memoir. London: Granta, 2007.Kiss and Tell. Dir. By Richard Wallace. Columbia Pictures, 1945.Lifton, Betty Jean. Twice Born: Memoirs of An Adopted Daughter. Middlesex, England: Penguin, 1977.Lundy, Darryl, comp. The Peerage: A Genealogical Survey of the Peerage of Britain as well as the Royal Families of Europe. 30 May 2013 ‹http://www.thepeerage.com/p40969.htm#i409684›Perl, Lynne and Shirin Markham. Why Wasn’t I Told? Making Sense of the Late Discovery of Adoption. Bondi: Post Adoption Resource Centre/Benevolent Society of NSW, 1999.Road to Utopia. Dir. By Hal Walker. Paramount, 1946.Turkle, Sherry, ed. Evocative Objects: Things We Think With. Cambridge, Massachusetts: MIT P, 2011. Tuxford, Miss H. H. Miss Tuxford’s Modern Cookery for the Middle Classes: Hints on Modern Gas Stove Cooking. London: John Heywood, c.1937.

Introduction In November 2020, upon learning that the company’s Covid-19 vaccine trial had been successful, the head of Pfizer’s Vaccine Research and Development, Kathrin Jansen, celebrated with champagne – “some really good stuff” (Cohen). Bubbles seem to go naturally with celebration, and champagne is fundamentally associated with bubbles. Yet, until the late-seventeenth century, champagne was a still wine, and it only reached the familiar levels of bubbliness in the late-nineteenth century (Harding). During this period and on into the early twentieth century, “champagne” was in many ways created, defined, and defended. A “champagne bubble” was created, within which the “nature” of champagne was contested and constructed. Champagne today is the result of hundreds of years of labour by many sorts of bubble-makers: those who make the bubbly drink, and those who construct, maintain, and defend the champagne bubble. In this article, I explore some elements of the champagne bubble, in order to understand both its fragility and rigidity over the years and today. Creating the Champagne Bubble – the Labour of Centuries It is difficult to separate the physical from the mythical as regards champagne. Therefore the categorisations below are always overlapping, and embedded in legal, political, economic, and socio-cultural factors. Just as assemblage – the mixing of wine from different grapes – is an essential element of champagne wine, the champagne bubble may be called heterogeneous assemblage. Indeed, the champagne bubble, as we will see below, is a myriad of different sorts of bubbles, such as terroir, appellation, myth and brand. And just as any assemblage, its heterogeneous elements exist and operate in relation to each other. Therefore the “champagne bubble” discussed here is both one and many, all of its elements fundamentally interconnected, constituting that “one” known as “champagne”. It is not my intention to be comprehensive of all the elements, historical and contemporary. Indeed, that would not be possible within such a short article. Instead, I seek to demonstrate some of the complexity of the champagne bubble, noting the elaborate labour that has gone into its creation. The Physical Champagne and Champagne – from Soil to Bubbles Champagne means both a legally protected geographical area (Champagne), and the wine (here: champagne) produced in this area from grapes defined as acceptable: most importantly pinot noir, pinot meunier (“black” grapes), and chardonnay (“white” grape). The method of production, too, is regulated and legally protected: méthode champenoise. Although the same method is used in numerous locations, these must be called something different: metodo classico (Italy), método tradicional (Spain), Methode Cap Classique (South Africa). The geographical area of Champagne was first legally defined in 1908, when it only included the areas of Marne and Aisne, leaving out, most importantly, the area of Aube. This decision led to severe unrest and riots, as the Aube vignerons revolted in 1911, forcing the inclusion of “zone 2”: Aube, Haute-Marne, and Seine-et-Marne (Guy). Behind these regulations was a surge in fraudulent production in the early twentieth century, as well as falling wine prices resulting from increasing supply of cheap wines (Colman 18). These first appellations d’origine had many consequences – they proved financially beneficial for the “zone 1”, but less so for the “zone 2”. When both these areas were brought under the same appellation in 1927, the financial benefits were more limited – but this may have been due to the Great Depression triggered in 1929 (Haeck et al.). It is a long-standing belief that the soil and climate of Champagne are key contributors to the quality of champagne wines, said to be due to “conditions … most suitable for making this type of wine” (Simon 11). Already in the end of the nineteenth century, the editor of Vigneron champenois attributed champagne’s quality to “a fortunate combination of … chalky soil … [and] unrivalled exposure [to the sun]” (Guy 119) among other things. Factors such as soil and climate, commonly included in and expressed through the idea of terroir, undoubtedly influence grapes and wines made thereof, but the extent remains unproven. Indeed, terroir itself is a very contested concept (Teil; Inglis and Almila). It is also the case that climate change has had, and will continue to have, devastating effects on wine production in many areas, while benefiting others. The highly successful English sparkling wine production, drawing upon know-how from the Champagne area, has been enabled by the warming climate (Inglis), while Champagne itself is at risk of becoming too hot (Robinson). Champagne is made through a process more complicated than most wines. I present here the bare bones of it, to illustrate the many challenges that had to be overcome to enable its production in the scale we see today. Freshly picked grapes are first pressed and the juice is fermented. Grape juice contains natural yeasts and therefore will ferment spontaneously, but fermentation can also be started with artificial yeasts. In fermentation, alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2) are formed, but the latter usually escapes the liquid. The secret of champagne is its second fermentation, which happens in bottles, after wines from different grapes and/or vineyards have been blended for desired characteristics (assemblage). For the second fermentation, yeast and sugar are added. As the fermentation happens inside a bottle, the CO2 that is created does not escape, but dissolves into the wine. The average pressure inside a champagne bottle in serving temperature is around 5 bar – 5 times the pressure outside the bottle (Liger-Belair et al.). The obvious challenge this method poses has to do with managing the pressure. Exploding bottles used to be a common problem, and the manner of sealing bottles was not very developed, either. Seventeenth-century developments in bottle-making, and using corks to seal bottles, enabled sparkling wines to be produced in the first place (Leszczyńska; Phillips 137). Still today, champagne comes in heavy-bottomed bottles, sealed with characteristically shaped cork, which is secured with a wire cage known as muselet. Scientific innovations, such as calculating the ideal amount of sugar for the second fermentation in 1836, also helped to control the amount of gas formed during the second fermentation, thus making the behaviour of the wine more predictable (Leszczyńska 265). Champagne is characteristically a “manufactured” wine, as it involves several steps of interference, from assemblage to dosage – sugar added for flavour to most champagnes after the second fermentation (although there are also zero dosage champagnes). This lends champagne particularly suitable for branding, as it is possible to make the wine taste the same year after year, harvest after harvest, and thus create a distinctive and recognisable house style. It is also possible to make champagnes for different tastes. During the nineteenth century, champagnes of different dosage were made for different markets – the driest for the British, the sweetest for the Russians (Harding). Bubbles are probably the most striking characteristic of champagne, and they are enabled by the complicated factors described above. But they are also formed when the champagne is poured in a glass. Natural impurities on the surface of the glass provide channels through which the gas pockets trapped in the wine can release themselves, forming strains of rising bubbles (Liger-Belair et al.). Champagne glasses have for centuries differed from other wine glasses, often for aesthetic reasons (Harding). The bubbles seem to do more than give people aesthetic pleasure and sensory experiences. It is often claimed that champagne makes you drunk faster than other drinks would, and there is, indeed, some (limited) research showing that this may well be the case (Roberts and Robinson; Ridout et al.). The Mythical Champagne – from Dom Pérignon to Modern Wonders Just as the bubbles in a champagne glass are influenced by numerous forces, so the metaphorical champagne bubble is subject to complex influences. Myth-creation is one of the most significant of these. The origin of champagne as sparkling wine is embedded in the myth of Dom Pérignon of Hautvillers monastery (1638–1715), who according to the legend would have accidentally developed the bubbles, and then enthusiastically exclaimed “I am drinking the stars!” (Phillips 138). In reality, bubbles are a natural phenomenon provoked by winter temperatures deactivating the fermenting yeasts, and spring again reactivating them. The myth of Dom Pérignon was first established in the nineteenth century and quickly embraced by the champagne industry. In 1937, Moët et Chandon launched a premium champagne called Dom Pérignon, which enjoys high reputation until this day (Phillips). The champagne industry has been active in managing associations connected with champagne since the nineteenth century. Sparkling champagnes had already enjoyed fashionability in the later seventeenth and early eighteenth century, both in the French Court, and amongst the British higher classes. In the second half of the nineteenth century, champagne found ever increasing markets abroad, and the clientele was not aristocratic anymore. Before the 1860s, champagne’s association was with high status celebration, as well as sexual activity and seduction (Harding; Rokka). As the century went on, and champagne sales radically increased, associations with “modernity” were added: “hot-air balloons, towering steamships, transcontinental trains, cars, sports, and other ‘modern’ wonders were often featured in quickly proliferating champagne advertising” (Rokka 280). During this time, champagne grew both drier and more sparkling, following consumer tastes (Harding). Champagne’s most important markets in later nineteenth century included the UK, where the growing middle classes consumed champagne for both celebration and hospitality (Harding), the US, where (upper) middle-class women were served champagne in new kinds of consumer environments (Smith; Remus), and Russia, where the upper classes enjoyed sweeter champagne – until the Revolution (Phillips 296). The champagne industry quickly embraced the new middle classes in possession of increasing wealth, as well as new methods of advertising and marketing. What is remarkable is that they managed to integrate enormously varied cultural thematics and still retain associations with aristocracy and luxury, while producing and selling wine in industrial scale (Harding; Rokka). This is still true today: champagne retains a reputation of prestige, despite large-scale branding, production, and marketing. Maintaining and Defending the Bubble: Formulas, Rappers, and the Absolutely Fabulous Tipplers The falling wine prices and increasing counterfeit wines coincided with Europe’s phylloxera crisis – the pest accidentally brought over from North America that almost wiped out all Europe’s vineyards. The pest moved through Champagne in the 1890s, killing vines and devastating vignerons (Campbell). The Syndicat du Commerce des vins de Champagne had already been formed in 1882 (Rokka 280). Now unions were formed to fight phylloxera, such as the Association Viticole Champenoise in 1898. The 1904 Fédération Syndicale des Vignerons was formed to lobby the government to protect the name of Champagne (Leszczyńska 266) – successfully, as we have seen above. The financial benefits from appellations were certainly welcome, but short-lived. World War I treated Champagne harshly, with battle lines stuck through the area for years (Guy 187). The battle went on also in the lobbying front. In 1935, a new appellation regime was brought into law, which came to be the basis for all European systems, and the Comité National des appellations d'origine (CNAO) was founded (Colman 1922). Champagne’s protection became increasingly international, and continues to be so today under EU law and trade deals (European Commission). The post-war recovery of champagne relied on strategies used already in the “golden years” – marketing and lobbying. Advertising continued to embrace “luxury, celebration, transport (extending from air travel to the increasingly popular automobile), modernity, sports” (Guy 188). Such advertisement must have responded accurately to the mood of post-war, pre-depression Europe. Even in the prohibition US it was known that the “frivolous” French women might go as far as bathe in champagne, like the popular actress Mistinguett (Young 63). Curiously, in the 1930s Soviet Russia, “champagne” (not produced in Champagne) was declared a sign of good living, symbolising the standard of living that any Soviet worker had access to (at least in theory) (Gronow). Today, the reputation of champagne is fiercely defended in legal terms. This is not only in terms of protection against other sparkling wine making areas, but also in terms of exploitation of champagne’s reputation by actors in other commercial fields, and even against mass market products containing genuine champagne (Mahy and d’Ath; Schneider and Nam). At the same time, champagne has been widely “democratised” by mass production, enabled partly by increasing mechanisation and scientification of champagne production from the 1950s onwards (Leszczyńska 266). Yet champagne retains its association with prestige, luxury, and even royalty. This has required some serious adaptation and flexibility. In what follows, I look into three cultural phenomena that illuminate processes of such adaptation: Formula One (F1) champagne spraying, the 1990s sitcom Absolutely Fabulous, and the Cristal racism scandal in 2006. The first champagne bottle is said to have been presented to F1 grand prix winner in Champagne in 1950 (Wheels24). Such a gesture would have been fully in line with champagne’s association with cars, sport, and modernity. But what about the spraying? Surely that is not in line with the prestige of the wine? The first spraying is attributed to Jo Siffert in 1966 and Dan Gurney in 1967, the former described as accidental, the latter as a spontaneous gesture of celebration (Wheels24; Dobie). Moët had become the official supplier of F1 champagnes in 1966, and there are no signs that the new custom would have been problematic for them, as their sponsorship continued until 1999, after which Mumm sponsored the sport for 15 years. Today, the champagne to be popped and sprayed is Chanson, in special bottles “coated in the same carbon fibre that F1 cars are made of” (Wheels24). Such an iconic status has the spraying gained that it features in practically all TV broadcasts concerning F1, although non-alcoholic substitute is used in countries where sale of alcohol is banned (Barker et al., “Quantifying”; Barker et al., “Alcohol”). As disturbing as the champagne spraying might look for a wine snob, it is perfectly in line with champagne’s marketing history and entrepreneurial spirit shown since the nineteenth century. Nor is it unheard of to let champagne spray. The “art” of sabrage, opening champagne bottle with a sable, associated with glamour, spectacle, and myth – its origin is attributed to Napoleon and his officers – is perfectly acceptable even for the snob. Sparkling champagne was always bound up with joy and celebration, not a solemn drink, and the champagne bubble was able to accommodate middle classes as well as aristocrats. This brings us to our second example, the British sitcom Absolutely Fabulous. The show, first released in 1992, featured two women, “Eddy” (Jennifer Saunders) and “Patsy” (Joanna Lumley), who spent their time happily smoking, taking drugs, and drinking large quantities of “Bolly” (among other things). Bollinger champagne may have initially experienced “a bit of a shock” for being thus addressed, but soon came to see the benefits of fame (French). In 2005, they hired PR support to make better use of the brand’s “Ab Fab” recognisability, and to improve its prestige reputation in order to justify their higher price range (Cann). Saunders and Lumley were warmly welcomed by the Bollinger house when filming for their champagne tour Absolutely Champers (2017). It is befitting indeed that such controversial fame came from the UK, the first country to discover sparkling champagne outside France (Simon 48), and where the aspirational middle classes were keen to consume it already in the nineteenth century (Harding). More controversial still is the case of Cristal (made by Louis Roederer) and the US rap world. Enthusiastically embraced by the “bling-bling” world of (black) rappers, champagne seems to fit their ethos well. Cristal was long favoured as both a drink and a word in rap lyrics. But in 2006, the newly appointed managing director at the family owned Roederer, Frédéric Rouzaud, made comments considered racist by many (Woodland). Rouzard told in an interview with The Economist that the house observed the Cristal-rap association “with curiosity and serenity”. He reportedly continued: “but what can we do? We can’t forbid people from buying it. I’m sure Dom Pérignon or Krug would be delighted to have their business”. It was indeed those two brands that the rapper Jay-Z replaced Cristal with, when calling for a boycott on Cristal. It would be easy to dismiss Rouzard’s comments as snobbery, or indeed as racism, but they merit some more reflection. Cristal is the premium wine of a house that otherwise does not enjoy high recognisability. While champagne’s history involves embracing new sorts of clientele, and marketing flexibly to as many consumer groups as possible (Rokka), this was the first spectacular crossing of racial boundaries. It was always the case that different houses and their different champagnes were targeted at different clienteles, and it is apparent that Cristal was not targeted at black rap artists. Whereas Bollinger was able to turn into a victory the questionable fame brought by the white middle-class association of Absolutely Fabulous, the more prestigious Cristal considered the attention of the black rapper world more threatening and acted accordingly. They sought to defend their own brand bubble, not the larger champagne bubble. Cristal’s reputation seems to have suffered little – its 2008 vintage, launched in 2018, was the most traded wine of that year (Schultz). Jay-Z’s purchase of his own champagne brand (Armand de Brignac, nicknamed Ace of Spades) has been less successful reputation-wise (Greenburg). It is difficult to break the champagne bubble, and it may be equally difficult to break into it. Conclusion In this article, I have looked into the various dilemmas the “bubble-makers” of Champagne encountered when fabricating what is today known as “champagne”. There have been moments of threat to the bubble they formed, such as in the turn of nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and eras of incomparable success, such as from the 1860s to 1880s. The discussion has demonstrated the remarkable flexibility with which the makers and defenders of champagne have responded to challenges, and dealt with material, socio-cultural, economic, and other problems. It feels appropriate to end with a note on the current challenge the champagne industry faces: Covid-19. The pandemic hit champagne sales exceptionally hard, leaving around 100 million bottles unsold (Micallef). This was not very surprising, given the closure of champagne-selling venues, banning of public and private celebrations, and a general mood not particularly prone to (or even likely to frown upon) such light-hearted matters as glamour and champagne. Champagne has survived many dramatic drops in sales during the twentieth century, such as the Great Depression of the 1930s, and the post-financial crisis collapse in 2009. Yet they seem to be able to make astonishing recoveries. 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