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Добірка наукової літератури з теми "Surface gravity wave"

Автор: Grafiati

Опубліковано: 8 листопада 2023

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Статті в журналах з теми "Surface gravity wave"

Pizzo, Nick E. "Surfing surface gravity waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 823 (June 16, 2017): 316–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2017.314.

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A simple criterion for water particles to surf an underlying surface gravity wave is presented. It is found that particles travelling near the phase speed of the wave, in a geometrically confined region on the forward face of the crest, increase in speed. The criterion is derived using the equation of John (Commun. Pure Appl. Maths, vol. 6, 1953, pp. 497–503) for the motion of a zero-stress free surface under the action of gravity. As an example, a breaking water wave is theoretically and numerically examined. Implications for upper-ocean processes, for both shallow- and deep-water waves, are discussed.

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Robinson, T. O., I. Eames, and R. Simons. "Dense gravity currents moving beneath progressive free-surface water waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 725 (May 23, 2013): 588–610. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2013.112.

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AbstractThe characteristics of dense gravity currents in coastal regions, where free-surface gravity waves are dominant, have yet to be studied in the laboratory. This paper provides a first insight into the dynamics of dense saline gravity currents moving beneath regular progressive free-surface water waves. The gravity currents were generated by releasing a finite volume of saline into a large wave tank with an established periodic wave field. After the initial collapse, the gravity currents propagated horizontally with two fronts, one propagating in the wave direction and the other against the wave direction. The fronts of the gravity currents oscillated with an amplitude and phase that correlated with the orbital velocities within a region close to the bed. To leading order, the overall length of the gravity current was found to be weakly affected by the wave action and the dynamics of the current could be approximated by simply considering the buoyancy of the released fluid. Other characteristics such as the position of the gravity current centre and the shape of the two leading profiles were found to be significantly affected by the wave action. The centre was displaced at constant speed dependent on the second-order wave-induced mean Lagrangian velocity. For long waves, the centre was advected downstream in the direction of wave propagation owing to the dominance of Stokes drift. For short waves, the gravity current centre moved upstream against the wave direction, as under these wave conditions Stokes drift is negligible at the bed. An asymmetry in the shape of the upstream and downstream current heads was observed, with the gravity current front moving against the waves being much thicker and the front steeper, similar to the case of a current moving in a stream.

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Doering, J. C., and A. J. Bowen. "SHOALING SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES: A BISPECTRAL ANALYSIS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 12. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.12.

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Nonlinearities (wave-wave interactions) play a vital role in many aspects of nearshore dynamics, such as wave shoaling and breaking, wave forces, wave-current interactions, radiation stress effects, and sediment transport. The importance of nonlinearities in the nearshore region cannot be overemphasized. At present, however, there is no wave theory that adequately accounts for these interactions, and field observations are sparse. Herein, the bispectrum is used to investigate the temporal and spatial variation of wave-wave interactions in cross-shore velocity for shoaling surface gravity waves in several nearshore environments. The implications for sediment movement of the sign of the observed wavewave interactions for both the real part of the velocity bispectrum (which is related to the skewness of the horizontal asymmetry) and the imaginary part of the velocity bispectrum (which is related to the skewness of the temporal derivative) are discussed. A parameterization is given for the amplitude and phase evolution of the self-self sum interactions within the wind-wave peak for both planar and barred nearshore topography. The results of this paper underline the potential importance of infragravity wave energy in determining nearshore morphology.

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Mui, R. C. Y., and D. G. Dommermuth. "The Vortical Structure of Parasitic Capillary Waves." Journal of Fluids Engineering 117, no. 3 (September 1, 1995): 355–61. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.2817269.

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A two-dimensional numerical simulation of the parasitic capillary waves that form on a 5 cm gravity-capillary wave is performed. A robust numerical algorithm is developed to simulate flows with complex boundary conditions and topologies. The free-surface boundary layer is resolved at the full-scale Reynolds, Froude, and Weber numbers. Seventeen million grid points are used to resolve the flow to within 6 × 10–4 cm. The numerical method is used to investigate the formation of parasitic capillary waves on the front face of a gravity-capillary wave. The parasitic capillary waves shed vorticity that induces surface currents that exceed twenty-five percent of the phase velocity of the gravity-capillary wave when the steepness of the parasitic capillary waves is approximately 0.8 and the total wave steepness is 1.1. A mean surface current develops in the direction of the wave’s propagation and is concentrated on the front face of the gravity-capillary wave. This current enhances mixing, and remnants of this surface current are probably present in post-breaking waves. Regions of high vorticity occur on the back sides of the troughs of the parasitic capillary waves. The vorticity separates from the free surface in regions where the wave-induced velocities exceed the vorticity-induced velocities. The rate of energy dissipation of the gravity-capillary wave with parasitic capillaries riding on top is twenty-two times greater than that of the gravity-capillary wave alone.

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Longuet-Higgins, M. S. "Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173 (December 1986): 683–707. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112086001325.

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Surface waves can be recorded in two kinds of ways, either with a fixed (Eulerian) probe or with a free-floating (Lagrangian) buoy. In steep waves, the differences between corresponding properties can be very marked.By a simple physical model and by accurate calculation it is shown that the Lagrangian wave period may differ from the Eulerian wave period by as much as 38 %. The Lagrangian mean level is also higher than the Eulerian mean, leading to possible discrepancies in remote sensing of the ocean from satellites.Surface accelerations are of interest in relation to the incidence of breaking waves, and for interactions between short (gravity or capillary) waves and longer gravity waves. Eulerian accelerations tend to be very non-sinusoidal, with large downwards peaks, sometimes exceeding - g in magnitude, near to sharp wave crests. Lagrangian accelerations are much smoother; for uniform gravity waves they lie between −0.388g and +0.315g. These values are verified by laboratory experiments. In wind-generated waves the limits are probably wider.In progressive gravity waves in deep water the horizontal accelerations generally exceed the vertical accelerations. In steep waves, the subsurface accelerations can slightly exceed those at the free surface.A novel application is made to the rolling motion of ships. In very steep, irrotational waves it is shown theoretically that the flow near the wave crest can lead to the rotation of the hull through angles up to 120° by a single wave, even if the wave is not breaking. This is confirmed by simple experiments. The efficiency of the keel appears to promote capsizing.

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Balk, Alexander M. "Surface gravity wave turbulence: three wave interaction?" Physics Letters A 314, no. 1-2 (July 2003): 68–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0375-9601(03)00795-3.

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Kenyon, Kern E. "On Surface Gravity Wave Energies." Natural Science 12, no. 10 (2020): 667–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.4236/ns.2020.1210057.

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Coleman, Timothy A., and Kevin R. Knupp. "Factors Affecting Surface Wind Speeds in Gravity Waves and Wake Lows." Weather and Forecasting 24, no. 6 (December 1, 2009): 1664–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2009waf2222248.1.

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Abstract Ducted gravity waves and wake lows have been associated with numerous documented cases of “severe” winds (>25 m s−1) and wind damage. These winds are associated with the pressure perturbations and transient mesoscale pressure gradients occurring in many gravity waves and wake lows. However, not all wake lows and gravity waves produce significant winds nor wind damage. In this paper, the factors that affect the surface winds produced by ducted gravity waves and wake lows are reviewed and examined. It is shown theoretically that the factors most conducive to high surface winds include a large-amplitude pressure disturbance, a slow intrinsic speed of propagation, and an ambient wind with the same sign as the pressure perturbation (i.e., a headwind for a pressure trough). Multiple case studies are presented, contrasting gravity waves and wake lows with varying amplitudes, intrinsic speeds, and background winds. In some cases high winds occurred, while in others they did not. In each case, the factor(s) responsible for significant winds, or the lack thereof, are discussed. It is hoped that operational forecasters will be able to, in some cases, compute these factors in real time, to ascertain in more detail the threat of damaging wind from an approaching ducted gravity wave or wake low.

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Krasitsky, V. P. "Five-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves." Physical Oceanography 5, no. 6 (November 1994): 413–21. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/bf02198507.

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Raghukumar, Kaustubha, Lindsay Hogan, Christopher Zappa, Frank Spada, and Grace Chang. "Optical detection of ensonified capillary-gravity waves using polarimetric imaging." Journal of the Acoustical Society of America 153, no. 3_supplement (March 1, 2023): A64. http://dx.doi.org/10.1121/10.0018177.

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The optical detection of surface capillary-gravity waves induced by underwater sound has many potential applications that range from the detection of sound-generating underwater objects to airborne bathymetric surveys. While multiple lab-based efforts have measured acoustically generated surface capillary-gravity waves, we report on a recent field-based measurement using polarimetric imaging. A controlled acoustic source was placed 10 m below a lake surface and emitted sound in the 500 Hz to 10000Hz frequency range. The lake surface was imaged using a polarimetric camera mounted 7 m above the lake surface. Measurable short-lived surface capillary-gravity waves (∼3 mm wavelength) were observed in the polarimetric camera images during ensonification of the lake surface. Changes were observed in both the omnidirectional and directional wave spectra. In the omni-directional wavenumber spectrum, enhanced capillary wave activity at high wavenumbers was observed for acoustic source frequencies in the 2–5 kHz range. Additionally, ensonification was observed to result in the amplitude and wavenumber modulation (enhancement/diminution) of existing wind-generated surface gravity-capillary waves. In the directional spectra, while ambient gravity-capillary waves showed a spreading function with stronger downwind versus upwind propagation, the acoustically generated gravity-capillary waves showed minimal impact on the directionality of the wave spectra.

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Дисертації з теми "Surface gravity wave"

Thomas, Alexandra Elizabeth. "The interaction of an internal solitary wave with surface gravity waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2002. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/13106.

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Solitary waves are nonlinear, non-oscillatory disturbances of permanent form. Recent advances in synthetic aperture radar imaging and analysis techniques have confirmed in situ observations and measurements that the passage of oceanic internal waves, and in particular internal solitary waves, is associated with modulations in sea surface roughness. It has not only revealed the ubiquity of this phenomenon but also highlighted the global existence of large amplitude, tidally induced, internal solitary waves. It appears, however, that little laboratory-based research has been carried out in this field. This work, therefore, focusses on the study of surface wavetrain modulations resulting from the passage of a single internal solitary wave. Digital Particle Image Velocimetry (DPIV) and Planar Laser Induced Fluorescence (PLIF) were employed to provide two-dimensional instantaneous velocity and density information respectively. Previous studies in this field have been performed with intrusive probe techniques, disturbing the fluid flow during measurement. Preliminary DPIV and PLIF experiments were performed on single internal solitary waves in a two-layer brine - fresh water stratification. To the author’s knowledge, the application of PLIF to the study of these waves had not been done previously. Results from the DPIV measurements concurred with previous research and highlighted the constraints of the DPIV system. The results were also compared to a recently developed and validated fully nonlinear numerical method. From the interaction investigations, both wavelength and amplitude modulations of the surface waves as a function of solitary wave phase were observed. In some cases, the shape of the internal wave was also affected. Velocity profiles were compared to the linear superposition of surface wave linear theory and the fully nonlinear numerical method. In addition, the PLIF analysis showed that, for the wave and stratification parameters investigated, there was no evidence for the compression and expansion of the density interface during the interaction.

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Chamberlain, Neil. "Wave-induced mixing within a gravity-driven surface current." Thesis, Imperial College London, 2000. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.325566.

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Howell, David W. "A numerical study of rain-induced surface gravity wave attenuation." Thesis, Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1989. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/27173.

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van, den Bremer T. S. "The induced mean flow of surface, internal and interfacial gravity wave groups." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2014. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:e735afe7-a77d-455d-a560-e869a9941f69.

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Although the leading-order motion of waves is periodic - in other words backwards and forwards - many types of waves including those driven by gravity induce a mean flow as a higher-order effect. It is the induced mean flow of three types of gravity waves that this thesis examines: surface (part I), internal (part II) and interfacial gravity waves (part III). In particular, this thesis examines wave groups. Because they transport energy, momentum and other tracers, wave-induced mean flows have important consequences for climate, environment, air traffic, fisheries, offshore oil and other industries. In this thesis perturbation methods are used to develop a simplified understanding of the physics of the induced mean flow for each of these three types of gravity wave groups. Leading-order estimates of different transport quantities are developed. For surface gravity wave groups (part I), the induced mean flow consists of two compo- nents: the Stokes drift dominant near the surface and the Eulerian return flow acting in the opposite direction and dominant at depth. By considering subsequent orders in a separation of scales expansion and by comparing to the Fourier-space solutions of Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1962), this thesis shows that the effects of frequency dis- persion can be ignored for deep-water waves with realistic bandwidths. An approximate depth scale is developed and validated above which the Stokes drift is dominant and below which the return flow wins: the transition depth. Results are extended to include the effects of finite depth and directional spreading. Internal gravity wave groups (part II) do not display Stokes drift, but a quantity analogous to Stokes transport for surface gravity waves can still be developed, termed the “divergent- flux induced flow” herein. The divergent-flux induced flow it itself a divergent flow and induces a response. In a three-dimensional geometry, the divergent-flux induced flow and the return flow form a balanced circulation in the horizontal plane with the former transporting fluid through the centre of the group and the latter acting in the opposite direction around the group. In a two-dimensional geometry, stratification inhibits a balanced circulation and a second type of waves are generated that travel far ahead and in the lee of the wave group. The results in the seminal work of Bretherton (1969b) are thus validated, explicit expressions for the response and return flow are developed and compared to numerical simulations in the two-dimensional case. Finally, for interfacial wave groups (part III) the induced mean flow is shown to behave analogously to the surface wave problem of part I. Exploring both pure interfacial waves in a channel with a closed lid and interacting surface and interfacial waves, expressions for the Stokes drift and return flow are found for different configurations with the mean set-up or set-down of the interface playing an important role.

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Lin, Yiqiang Farouk Bakhtier. "Acoustic wave induced convection and transport in gases under normal and micro-gravity conditions /." Philadelphia, Pa. : Drexel University, 2007. http://hdl.handle.net/1860/1795.

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Yarber, Robert K. "Development and calibration of two and four wire water surface wave height measurement systems." Thesis, Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1992. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/23863.

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Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited
Capacitance and conductance measurements using two and four wire techniques were developed and statically and dynamically calibrated in this thesis. The voltage sensitivities range from 7.3 to 8.1 ± 0.1 mV/cm for the two wire capacitance system static calibrations. This is ± 5.2% of the limiting theoretical value. The voltage sensitivities range from 0.3 to 0.4 ± 0.1 V/cm for the four wire conductance system static calibrations. Dynamic calibrations were only completed for the conductance system. The dynamic calibration results were weakly frequency dependent with a qj-0.15 decay in a limited, 2-4 Hz range. Wind power spectrum measurements were taken in the existing Upper Ocean Simulations Facility at the Naval Postgraduate School. There was excellent agreement in the spectra with both techniques. Driven gravity wave frequency downshifting and wind energy dumping was observed in the combined gravity wave and wind-wave measurements. The power spectra peaked near two Hertz and decayed at 50 to 70 dB per decade, or as CO -5 to G)" 7 for both systems. Gravity wave phase speed and wavelength measurements were performed with the capacitance system. The results were approximately 40% higher than theory.
http://archive.org/details/developmentcalib00yarb

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McAllister, Mark Laing. "Analysis of laboratory and field measurements of directionally spread nonlinear ocean waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/28762.

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Surface gravity waves exist in the oceans as multi-directional nonlinear phenomena. Understanding how these two properties interact is intrinsically important in itself. Furthermore, an understanding of this relationship may be used to gain insight into other oceanic phenomena. This thesis first describes an experimental investigation into the relationship between directionality and non-linearity (Part I). This relationship was then used as a tool to estimate the directional spreading of field data (Part II). Experiments have been conducted in which directionally spread focused wave groups were created in a wave tank. The relationship between the degree of directional spreading and the second-order bound harmonics of the wave groups was examined, in particular the formation of a `set-up'. These measurements were then compared to predictions from second-order theories, finding good agreement. The two-dimensional structure of the bound waves was explored giving new insight into the underlying physics. Experiments were then carried out for directionally spread crossing wave groups. It is believed that the crossing of two sufficiently separated wave groups may be the cause of an anomalous set-up in the second-order bound waves observed for some extreme and potentially freak waves. This set-up is reproduced experimentally. Again, the results of these test agreed very well when compared to second-order theory. The insight gained from the foregoing experiments was then utilised in the analysis of field data. A method, which requires only a single measurement to estimate the observed degree of directional spreading, was applied to a large dataset of field measurements from the North Alwyn platform in the North Sea. This method was then compared to conventional approaches, which require multiple concurrent measurements. The method that requires only a single measurement was shown to be effective, and presents a promising approach to gaining additional insight about the directional spreading of point observations.

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Parmhed, Oskar. "Near surface atmospheric flow over high latitude glaciers." Doctoral thesis, Stockholm University, Department of Meteorology, 2004. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:su:diva-197.

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In this thesis various descriptions of the near surface atmospheric flow over a high latitude glacier is used in an effort to increase our understanding of the basic flow dynamics there.

Through their contribution to sea-level change, mountain glaciers play a significant role in Earth’s climate system. Properties of the near surface atmospheric flow are important for understanding glacier response to climate change.

Here, the near surface atmospheric flow is studied from several perspectives including the effects of both rotation and slope. Rotation is an important aspect of most atmospheric flows and its significance for mesoscale flows have gained recognition over the last years. Similarly, the very stable boundary layer (VSBL) has lately gained interest. Within a VSBL over sloping terrain katabatic flow is known to be usual and persistent. For the present thesis a combination of numerical and simple analytical models as well as observations from the Vatnajökull glacier on Iceland have been used. The models have continuously been compared to available observations. Three different approaches have been used: linear wave modeling, analytic modeling of katabatic flow and of the Ekman layer, and numerical simulations of the katabatic flow using a state of the art mesoscale model. The analytic models for the katabatic flow and the Ekman layer used in this thesis both utilizes the WKB method to allow the eddy diffusivity to vary with height. This considerably improves the results of the models. Among other findings it is concluded that: a large part of the flow can be explained by linear theory, that good results can be obtained for surface energy flux using simple models, and that the very simple analytic models for the katabatic flow and the Ekman layer can perform adequately if the restraint of constant eddy diffusivity is relieved.

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Kupčíková, Laura. "Částice plovoucí na volné hladině vln." Master's thesis, Vysoké učení technické v Brně. Fakulta strojního inženýrství, 2021. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-444637.

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This master’s thesis deals with analytical and numerical description of surface gravity waves. Wave theories and their influence on water particle movement is described in the theoretical part of the thesis. Water particle moves in the same direction as wave propagation and this phenomenon is called Stokes drift. It has a significant influence on sediment transport and floating particle movement at water free surface. The experimental part consists of wave profile monitoring and water particle tracking in a wave flume with wave generator and beach model. The experimental results are compared with numerical simulation performed in the ANSYS Fluent software. Finally, the wave profiles obtained from simulation are compared with experimental wave profiles extracted by digital image processing.

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Chapalain, Georges. "Étude hydrodynamique et sédimentaire des environnements littoraux dominés par la houle." Université Joseph Fourier (Grenoble ; 1971-2015), 1988. http://www.theses.fr/1988GRE10121.

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La propagation des houles longues est étudiée expérimentalement, théoriquement et numériquement. La validité du modèle harmonique quasi-résonnant de lau et barcilon (1972) est confirmée. Les processus hydro-sédimentaires se développant dans la couche limite turbulente de fond générée par la houle sont analysés à l'aide d'un modèle uni-dimensionnel avec fermeture turbulente au second ordre. Un modèle simplifie avec fermeture turbulente au premier ordre est envisagé dans la perspective d'une modélisation des interactions des trains de houle avec un fond sableux. La modélisation hydro-morphologique ainsi élaborée explique la formation des barres sableuses d'avant-cote. Elle est confrontée avec succès à des mesures effectuées dans le lac Huron et dans le golfe du Saint-Laurent. L'extension de la modélisation a des substrats de granulométrie étendue est réalisée en vue de la simulation du tri granulométrique observe sur les systèmes de barres littorales. Enfin, un essai d'intégration des pertes d'énergie par les déferlements multiples survenant sur les séquences de barres est entrepris.

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Книги з теми "Surface gravity wave"

Howell, David W. A numerical study of rain-induced surface gravity wave attenuation. Monterey, Calif: Naval Postgraduate School, 1989.

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Vanden-Broeck, J. M. Gravity-capillary free-surface flows. New York: Cambridge University Press, 2010.

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Vanden-Broeck, J. M. Gravity-capillary free-surface flows. New York: Cambridge University Press, 2010.

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Keeley, J. R. SAR sensitivities to surface gravity waves. Ottawa: Department of Fisheries and Oceans, 1992.

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Agnon, Yehuda. Nonlinear diffraction of ocean gravity waves. Woods Hole, Mass: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1986.

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Lawrence, Richard T. Experimental inquires into collective sea state modes in deep water surface gravity waves. Monterey, Calif: Naval Postgraduate School, 1992.

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Abou-Taleb, A. A. A microwave model for investigating first and second order electromagnetic scattering from gravity water waves on the surface. Birmingham: University of Birmingham, 1985.

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Zeitlin, Vladimir. Rotating Shallow-Water Models with Moist Convection. Oxford University Press, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198804338.003.0015.

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It is shown how the standard RSW can be ’augmented’ to include phase transitions of water. This chapter explains how to incorporate extra (convective) vertical fluxes in the model. By using Lagrangian conservation of equivalent potential temperature condensation of the water vapour, which is otherwise a passive tracer, is included in the model and linked to convective fluxes. Simple relaxational parameterisation of condensation permits the closure of the system, and surface evaporation can be easily included. Physical and mathematical properties of thus obtained model are explained, and illustrated on the example of wave scattering on the moisture front. The model is applied to ’moist’ baroclinic instability of jets and vortices. Condensation is shown to produce a transient increase of the growth rate. Special attention is paid to the moist instabilities of hurricane-like vortices, which are shown to enhance intensification of the hurricane, increase gravity wave emission, and generate convection-coupled waves.

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Gravity-capillary Free Surface Flows (Cambridge Monographs on Mechanics). Cambridge University Press, 2008.

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Ferriole, Mary Ann. Laboratory observations of the evolution of surface-gravity waves through the shoaling and breaking regions and the surf zone. 1991.

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Частини книг з теми "Surface gravity wave"

Harger, Robert O. "The SAR Image of Short Gravity Waves On a Long Gravity Wave." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, 371–92. Boston, MA: Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_26.

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Hasselmann, D., J. Bösenberg, M. Dunckel, K. Richter, M. Grünewald, and H. Carlson. "Measurements of Wave-Induced Pressure over Surface Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, 353–68. Boston, MA: Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_25.

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Kwoh, Daniel S. W., and Bruce M. Lake. "Microwave Scattering from Short Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, 443–47. Boston, MA: Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_30.

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Masuda, Akira. "Nonlinear Energy Transfer between Random Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, 41–57. Boston, MA: Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_3.

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Su, Ming-Yang, and Albert W. Green. "Experimental Studies of Strong Nonlinear Interactions of Deep-Water Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, 231–53. Boston, MA: Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_15.

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Huang, Norden E., Steven R. Long, and Larry F. Bliven. "An Experimental Study of the Statistical Properties of Wind-Generated Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, 129–44. Boston, MA: Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_8.

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Christiansen, Søren. "A Stability Analysis of a Eulerian Method for Some Surface Gravity Wave Problems." In Nonlinear Hyperbolic Equations — Theory, Computation Methods, and Applications, 75–84. Wiesbaden: Vieweg+Teubner Verlag, 1989. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-322-87869-4_8.

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Miles, Alan J., and B. Roberts. "Magnetoacoustic-Gravity Surface Waves." In Mechanisms of Chromospheric and Coronal Heating, 508–10. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1991. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-87455-0_84.

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Longuet-Higgins, M. S. "A New Way to Calculate Steep Gravity Waves." In The Ocean Surface, 1–15. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands, 1985. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-015-7717-5_1.

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Pedlosky, Joseph. "Equations of Motion; Surface Gravity Waves." In Waves in the Ocean and Atmosphere, 19–31. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-05131-3_3.

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Тези доповідей конференцій з теми "Surface gravity wave"

Fu, Shenhe, Yuval Tsur, Jianying Zhou, Lev Shemer, and Ady Arie. "Surface Gravity Water Wave Airy Wavepacket." In Laser Science. Washington, D.C.: OSA, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1364/ls.2015.lth1h.1.

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Clement, Eric, Lenaic Bonneau, Bruno Andreotti, Masami Nakagawa, and Stefan Luding. "Surface wave acoustics of granular packing under gravity." In POWDERS AND GRAINS 2009: PROCEEDINGS OF THE 6TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON MICROMECHANICS OF GRANULAR MEDIA. AIP, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.3179945.

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Gade, Martin, Thomas Alexander Grobelny, and Detlef Stammer. "Multi-polarization scatterometer measurements of long surface gravity wave breaking." In IGARSS 2014 - 2014 IEEE International Geoscience and Remote Sensing Symposium. IEEE, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1109/igarss.2014.6947022.

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Dimas, Athanassios A. "Large-Wave Simulation of Surface Tension Effect on Weak Spilling Breakers." In ASME 2005 24th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2005. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2005-67278.

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The effect of surface tension on the evolution of weak spilling breakers is studied by performing large-wave simulations (LWS) of the free-surface flow developing by the interaction of a gravity free-surface wave and a surface shear-layer current. The flow models the evolution of gravity waves under the influence of wind shear. The surface tension modifies the dynamic free-surface condition and its effect depends on the dimensionless Weber number. The Euler equations are filtered according to the LWS formulation and solved numerically by a spectral method and a fractional-time-step scheme. The results indicate a stronger surface tension effect with decreasing Weber number values and increasing initial wave height. Specifically, decreasing the Weber number alters the size and shape of the characteristic bulge of spilling breakers and the toe position resulting in sharper slopes and angles of the free surface profile. The spiller wave height is reduced with decreasing Weber number.

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Roland Kjærgaard Qwist, Jesper, and Erik Damgaard Christensen. "Solitary Wave Propagation Using a Novel Single Fluid Finite Volume Method for Free Surface Gravity Waves." In ASME 2022 41st International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2022-80255.

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Abstract Accurate prediction of wave loads from extreme waves on individual beams in offshore jacket structures are important to ensure the structural integrity. As the load distribution along a beam is strongly tied to the wave kinematics it is crucial to have an accurate prediction of the surface elevation and the velocity field. The open-source CFD code OpenFOAM contains two solution algorithms (interFoam and interIsoFoam), which are used for ocean wave simulations and wave load predictions. The algorithms are often applied using a too coarse spatial discretisation, which violates the assumption of a continuous solution at the free surface. The consequence is inaccurate and unphysical predictions even for propagation of a steady wave. Our recently developed Direct Surface Description (DSD) solution algorithm in OpenFOAM is used to simulate a solitary wave with different cell aspect ratios. The solitary wave case shows that the DSD method provides accurate velocity fields and surface elevations both for square and horizontally elongated cells.

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Hayashi, Koichi, Akinori Okada, Toshifumi Matsuoka, and Hideki Hatakeyama. "Joint Analysis of a Surface‐Wave Method and a Micro‐Gravity Survey." In Symposium on the Application of Geophysics to Engineering and Environmental Problems 2004. Environment and Engineering Geophysical Society, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.4133/1.2923309.

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Hayashi, Koichi, Akinori Okada, Toshifumi Matsuoka, and Hideki Hatakeyama. "Joint Analysis Of A Surface-Wave Method And A Micro-Gravity Survey." In 17th EEGS Symposium on the Application of Geophysics to Engineering and Environmental Problems. European Association of Geoscientists & Engineers, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.3997/2214-4609-pdb.186.sur09.

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Calder, A. C. "Mixing by Non-linear Gravity Wave Breaking on a White Dwarf Surface." In CLASSICAL NOVA EXPLOSIONS: International Conference on Classical Nova Explosions. AIP, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.1518190.

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Roos, Jannicke, Chris Swan, and Sverre Haver. "Wave Impacts on the Column of a Gravity Based Structure." In ASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2010. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2010-20648.

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An accurate prediction of the wave loading on the columns of any offshore structure is an integral part of the design / re-assessment process. Earlier studies have investigated the nonlinear loads on single columns covering a wide range of diameters (expressed as a ratio of the incident wave length) and addressing a variety of incident wave steepness. As a result, it is generally accepted that wave-structure interaction effects can be important even outside the diffraction regime and may be one possible cause of structural dynamic response. The importance of wave-structure and wave-wave interaction effects will again be highlighted in the present study; the emphasis of the work being the occurrence of wave impacts on the columns of a gravity-based structure in random seas involving very large, steep waves. This paper presents the results of an experimental study of a gravity based structure in a severe wave climate. The structure comprises an arrangement of storage caissons located on the sea bed in relatively shallow water, with four large diameter surface-piercing columns. The primary purpose of the present paper is to provide a comparison between the incident waves and the measured loads. This shows that robust predictions of the slamming load cannot be made without taking into account the geometry of the structure, including that of the underlying caissons. It is also shown that the largest loads frequently do not correspond to the tallest or steepest incident waves. This emphasizes the importance of correctly incorporating the nonlinear wave-wave interactions and hence the need to undertake long random wave tests in offshore engineering design.

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Bredmose, H., J. Skourup, E. A. Hansen, E. D. Christensen, L. M. Pedersen, and A. Mitzlaff. "Numerical Reproduction of Extreme Wave Loads on a Gravity Wind Turbine Foundation." In 25th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2006-92258.

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A fully nonlinear 3D Navier Stokes solver with VOF (Volume of Fluid) treatment of the free surface is used to reproduce two extreme laboratory wave impacts on a gravity wind turbine foundation. The wave climate is irregular waves with a current. Numerical results for inline force, overturning moment and run-up are compared to measurements. The extreme wave loads for the two events are associated with slamming onto the under side of a horizontal platform placed 9.1m above the still water level. For such impacts, the computed wave loads are strongly sensitive to the shape of the incoming waves. A comparison with a Morison-type estimation of the wave loads shows that this much simpler approach can reproduce the overall trend of the wave load history, but not the extreme moment.

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Звіти організацій з теми "Surface gravity wave"

Guza, R. T. Surface Gravity Waves And Ambient Microseismic Noise. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada256498.

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Hara, Tetsu. Interaction Between Surface Gravity Waves and Near Surface Atmospheric Turbulence. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada634931.

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Sullivan, Peter P., James C. McWilliams, and Chin-Hoh Moeng. Surface Gravity Waves and Coupled Marine Boundary Layers. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada625363.

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Guza, Robert T. Surface Gravity Waves on the Continental Shelf and Beach. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, February 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada389276.

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Ko, Dong S. A Multiscale Nested Modeling Framework to Simulate the Interaction of Surface Gravity Waves with Nonlinear Internal Gravity Waves. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ad1013704.

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Van Roekel, Luke, Erin Thomas, and Olawale Ikuyajolu. Enabling studies of long term climate effects from surface gravity waves. Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI), April 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.2172/1968204.

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Street, Robert L. Large Eddy Simulation of Sediment Transport in the Presence of Surface Gravity Waves, Currents and Complex Bedforms. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada627539.

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McWilliams, James C., and Yusuke Uchiyama. The Effects of Surface Gravity Waves on Coastal Currents: Implementation, Phenomenological Exploration, and Realistic Simulation with ROMS. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada573291.

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