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1

Shakhin, Victor M., i Tatiana V. Shakhina. "Waves on the Water Surface — Mathematical Models — Part 1". International Journal of Ocean and Climate Systems 6, nr 3 (wrzesień 2015): 113–35. http://dx.doi.org/10.1260/1759-3131.6.3.113.

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Shakhin, Victor M., i Tatiana V. Shakhina. "Waves on the Water Surface — Mathematical Models — Part 2". International Journal of Ocean and Climate Systems 6, nr 3 (wrzesień 2015): 137–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.1260/1759-3131.6.3.137.

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Seadawy, Aly R., Asghar Ali i Dianchen Lu. "Applications of modified mathematical method on some nonlinear water wave dynamical models". Modern Physics Letters A 33, nr 35 (19.11.2018): 1850204. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s0217732318502048.

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The extended simple equation method is applied to construct solitary wave solutions of (3 + 1)-dimensional Kadomtsev–Petviashvili-Benjamin–Bona–Mahony (KP-BBM), Korteweg–de Vries Benjamin–Bona–Mahony (KdV-BBM), Breaking soliton (BS) and (2 + 1) Maccari system waves system of equations. These models have prevalent usage in modern science. This technique can also be functional to solve different kinds of nonlinear evolution problems in contemporary areas of research. It is an effective and powerful mathematical tool in finding solitary wave solutions of nonlinear evolution equations (NLEEs) in mathematical physics.
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Sakhnenko, O. I. "Results of calculation of wave-wind water dynamics at the Tiligul Estuary". Ukrainian hydrometeorological journal, nr 18 (29.10.2017): 140–49. http://dx.doi.org/10.31481/uhmj.18.2016.16.

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Features of spatial distribution of the main parameters of wind waves, such as height, average orbital velocities of wave motions determining transportation of bottom material were specified. Maximum heights of significant waves were obtained in the central, most deep-water part of the estuary, as well as in the southern part and near the windward shores. At the time of storm winds maximum heights of significant waves, according to the simulation results, constitute up to 0,83 m. On the basis of calculations of wind waves with application of the SWAN numerical model (Simulating Waves Nearshore) made using wind observations during 2012, regime functions of wind waves’ heights for different parts of the estuary were built. Statistical estimates of wind waves’ heights at typical points of the estuary waters were analyzed. Spatial fields of wind-wave flows in the estuary under the influence of steady winds of the southern and western directions calculated using the complex of numerical mathematical models of wind wave generation and models of wind-wave water circulation based on Reynolds equations and supplemented with com-ponents of the wave radiation stresses were specified.
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5

Granero-Belinchón, Rafael, i Stefano Scrobogna. "Models for Damped Water Waves". SIAM Journal on Applied Mathematics 79, nr 6 (styczeń 2019): 2530–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.1137/19m1262899.

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Li, Qinjun, Danyal Soybaş, Onur Alp Ilhan, Gurpreet Singh i Jalil Manafian. "Pure Traveling Wave Solutions for Three Nonlinear Fractional Models". Advances in Mathematical Physics 2021 (9.04.2021): 1–18. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2021/6680874.

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Three nonlinear fractional models, videlicet, the space-time fractional 1 + 1 Boussinesq equation, 2 + 1 -dimensional breaking soliton equations, and SRLW equation, are the important mathematical approaches to elucidate the gravitational water wave mechanics, the fractional quantum mechanics, the theoretical Huygens’ principle, the movement of turbulent flows, the ion osculate waves in plasma physics, the wave of leading fluid flow, etc. This paper is devoted to studying the dynamics of the traveling wave with fractional conformable nonlinear evaluation equations (NLEEs) arising in nonlinear wave mechanics. By utilizing the oncoming exp − Θ q -expansion technique, a series of novel exact solutions in terms of rational, periodic, and hyperbolic functions for the fractional cases are derived. These types of long-wave propagation phenomena played a dynamic role to interpret the water waves as well as mathematical physics. Here, the form of the accomplished solutions containing the hyperbolic, rational, and trigonometric functions is obtained. It is demonstrated that our proposed method is further efficient, general, succinct, powerful, and straightforward and can be asserted to install the new exact solutions of different kinds of fractional equations in engineering and nonlinear dynamics.
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7

Kichenassamy, Satyanad. "Existence of solitary waves for water-wave models". Nonlinearity 10, nr 1 (1.01.1997): 133–51. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/0951-7715/10/1/009.

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Hong, Woo-Pyo. "Dynamics of Combined Solitary-waves in the General Shallow Water Wave Models". Zeitschrift für Naturforschung A 58, nr 9-10 (1.10.2003): 520–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/zna-2003-9-1008.

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We find new analytic solitary-wave solutions, having a nonzero background at infinity, of the general fifth-order shallow water wave models using the hyperbolic function ansatz method. We study the dynamical properties of the solutions in the combined form of a bright and a dark solitary-wave by using numerical simulations. It is shown that the solitary-waves can be stable or marginally stable, depending on the coefficients of the model.We study the interaction dynamics by using the combined solitary-waves as the initial profiles to show the formation of sech2-type solitary-waves in the presence of a strong nonlinear dispersion term. - PACS: 03.40.Kf, 02.30.Jr, 47.20.Ky, 52.35.Mw
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9

Lu, Dianchen, Aly R.Seadawy i Asghar Ali. "Structure of traveling wave solutions for some nonlinear models via modified mathematical method". Open Physics 16, nr 1 (31.12.2018): 854–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/phys-2018-0107.

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Abstract We have employed the exp(-φ(ξ))-expansion method to derive traveling waves solutions of breaking solition (BS), Zakharov-Kuznetsov-Burgers (ZKB), Ablowitz-Kaup-Newell-Segur (AKNS) water wave, Unstable nonlinear Schrödinger (UNLS) and Dodd-Bullough-Mikhailov (DBM) equations. These models have valuable applications in mathematical physics. The results of the constructed model, along with some graphical representations provide the basic knowlegde about these models. The derived results have various applications in applied science.
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10

Lara, Javier L., Inigo J. Losada, Gabriel Barajas, Maria Maza i Benedetto Di Paolo. "RECENT ADVANCES IN 3D MODELLING OF WAVE-STRUCTURE INTERACTION WITH CFD MODELS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, nr 36 (30.12.2018): 91. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.91.

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Numerical modelling of the interaction of water waves with coastal structures has continuously been among the most relevant challenges in coastal engineering research and practice. During the last years, 3D modelling based on RANS-type equations, has been the dominant methodology to address the mathematical modelling of wave and coastal structure interaction. However, the three-dimensionality of many flowstructure interactions processes demands overcoming existing modelling limitations. Under some circumstances relevant three-dimensional processes are still tackled using physical modelling. It has been shown that beyond numerical implementation of the well-known mathematical 3-D formulation of the Navier-Stokes equations, the application of 3-D codes to standard coastal engineering problems demands some additional steps to be taken. These steps could be classified into three main groups relevant to: a) the modelling of the physical processes; b) the use of the tool and c) the applicability of the codes. This work presents an analysis of the use of three-dimensional flow models to analyze wave interaction with coastal structures focusing on recent developments overcoming existing limitations. Last modelling advances, including the implementation of new physics and pre-and postprocessing tools will be shown with the aim of extending the use of three-dimensional modelling of wavestructure interaction in both coastal and offshore fields.
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11

Dyachenko, A. I., D. I. Kachulin i V. E. Zakharov. "Super compact equation for water waves". Journal of Fluid Mechanics 828 (12.09.2017): 661–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2017.529.

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Mathematicians and physicists have long been interested in the subject of water waves. The problems formulated in this subject can be considered fundamental, but many questions remain unanswered. For instance, a satisfactory analytic theory of such a common and important phenomenon as wave breaking has yet to be developed. Our knowledge of the formation of rogue waves is also fairly poor despite the many efforts devoted to this subject. One of the most important tasks of the theory of water waves is the construction of simplified mathematical models that are applicable to the description of these complex events under the assumption of weak nonlinearity. The Zakharov equation, as well as the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) and the Dysthe equation (which are actually its simplifications), are among them. In this article, we derive a new modification of the Zakharov equation based on the assumption of unidirectionality (the assumption that all waves propagate in the same direction). To derive the new equation, we use the Hamiltonian form of the Euler equation for an ideal fluid and perform a very specific canonical transformation. This transformation is possible due to the ‘miraculous’ cancellation of the non-trivial four-wave resonant interaction in the one-dimensional wave field. The obtained equation is remarkably simple. We call the equation the ‘super compact water wave equation’. This equation includes a nonlinear wave term (à la NLSE) together with an advection term that can describe the initial stage of wave breaking. The NLSE and the Dysthe equations (DystheProc. R. Soc. Lond.A, vol. 369, 1979, pp. 105–114) can be easily derived from the super compact equation. This equation is also suitable for analytical studies as well as for numerical simulation. Moreover, this equation also allows one to derive a spatial version of the water wave equation that describes experiments in flumes and canals.
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12

Constantin, A. "Nonlinear water waves: introduction and overview". Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 376, nr 2111 (11.12.2017): 20170310. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2017.0310.

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For more than two centuries progress in the study of water waves proved to be interdependent with innovative and deep developments in theoretical and experimental directions of investigation. In recent years, considerable progress has been achieved towards the understanding of waves of large amplitude. Within this setting one cannot rely on linear theory as nonlinearity becomes an essential feature. Various analytic methods have been developed and adapted to come to terms with the challenges encountered in settings where approximations (such as those provided by linear or weakly nonlinear theory) are ineffective. Without relying on simpler models, progress becomes contingent upon the discovery of structural properties, the exploitation of which requires a combination of creative ideas and state-of-the-art technical tools. The successful quest for structure often reveals unexpected patterns and confers aesthetic value on some of these studies. The topics covered in this issue are both multi-disciplinary and interdisciplinary: there is a strong interplay between mathematical analysis, numerical computation and experimental/field data, interacting with each other via mutual stimulation and feedback. This theme issue reflects some of the new important developments that were discussed during the programme ‘Nonlinear water waves’ that took place at the Isaac Newton Institute for Mathematical Sciences (Cambridge, UK) from 31st July to 25th August 2017. A cross-section of the experts in the study of water waves who participated in the programme authored the collected papers. These papers illustrate the diversity, intensity and interconnectivity of the current research activity in this area. They offer new insight, present emerging theoretical methodologies and computational approaches, and describe sophisticated experimental results. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.
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13

Escher, Joachim. "Regularity of rotational travelling water waves". Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 370, nr 1964 (13.04.2012): 1602–15. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2011.0458.

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Several recent results on the regularity of streamlines beneath a rotational travelling wave, along with the wave profile itself, will be discussed. The survey includes the classical water wave problem in both finite and infinite depth, capillary waves and solitary waves as well. A common assumption in all models to be discussed is the absence of stagnation points.
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14

Iornumbe, SI, T. Tivde i RA Chia. "A Mathematical Model of Stratified Geophysical Fluid Flows Over Variable Bottom Topography". NIGERIAN ANNALS OF PURE AND APPLIED SCIENCES 3, nr 3b (15.11.2020): 112–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.46912/napas.202.

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In this paper, a mathematical model of stratified geophysical fluid flow over variable bottom topography was derived for shallow water. The equations are derived from the principles of conservation of mass and conservation of momentum. The force acting on the fluid is gravity, represented by the gravitational constant. A system of six nonlinear partial differential equations was obtained as the model equations. The solutions of these models were obtained using perturbation method. The presence of the coriolis force in the shallow water equations were shown as the causes of the deflection of fluid parcels in the direction of wave motion and causes gravity waves to disperse. As water depth decreases due to varied bottom topography, the wave amplitude were shown to increase while the wavelength and wave speed decreases resulting in overturning of the wave. The results are presented graphically.
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15

Lin, Ray-Qing, Weijia Kuang i Arthur M. Reed. "Numerical Modeling of Nonlinear Interactions Between Ships and Surface Gravity Waves, Part 1: Ship Waves in Calm Water". Journal of Ship Research 49, nr 01 (1.03.2005): 1–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.5957/jsr.2005.49.1.1.

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This paper presents a pseudo-spectral model for nonlinear ship-surface wave interactions. The algorithm used in the model is a combination of spectral and boundary element methods: the boundary element method is used to translate physical quantities between the nonuniform ship surface and the regular grid of the spectral representation; the spectral method is used throughout the remainder of the fluid domain. All possible wave-wave interactions are included in the model (up to N-wave interactions for the truncation order N of the spectral expansions). This paper focuses on the mathematical theory and numerical method of the model and presents some numerical results for steady Kelvin waves in calm water. The nonlinear bow waves at high Froude numbers from the pseudo-spectral model are much closer to the experimental results than those from linear ship wave models. Our results demonstrate that the pseudo-spectral model is significantly faster than previous ship wave models: with the same resolution, the CPU time of the pseudo-spectral model is orders of magnitude less than those of previous models. Convergence speed of this model is ANLogN instead of BN2, where N is the number of unknown (note that the N for the traditional boundary element method may be significantly larger than the N for the pseudo-spectral method for the same quality solution). A and B are CPU time requirements in each time step for our model and others, respectively.
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16

Lu, Dianchen, Aly R. Seadawy i Asghar Ali. "Dispersive analytical wave solutions of three nonlinear dynamical water waves models via modified mathematical method". Results in Physics 13 (czerwiec 2019): 102177. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.rinp.2019.102177.

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Vrecica, Teodor, i Yaron Toledo. "Consistent nonlinear stochastic evolution equations for deep to shallow water wave shoaling". Journal of Fluid Mechanics 794 (4.04.2016): 310–42. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2015.750.

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Nonlinear interactions between sea waves and the sea bottom are a major mechanism for energy transfer between the different wave frequencies in the near-shore region. Nevertheless, it is difficult to account for this phenomenon in stochastic wave forecasting models due to its mathematical complexity, which mostly consists of computing either the bispectral evolution or non-local shoaling coefficients. In this work, quasi-two-dimensional stochastic energy evolution equations are derived for dispersive water waves up to quadratic nonlinearity. The bispectral evolution equations are formulated using stochastic closure. They are solved analytically and substituted into the energy evolution equations to construct a stochastic model with non-local shoaling coefficients, which includes nonlinear dissipative effects and slow time evolution. The nonlinear shoaling mechanism is investigated and shown to present two different behaviour types. The first consists of a rapidly oscillating behaviour transferring energy back and forth between wave harmonics in deep water. Owing to the contribution of bottom components for closing the class III Bragg resonance conditions, this behaviour includes mean energy transfer when waves reach intermediate water depths. The second behaviour relates to one-dimensional shoaling effects in shallow water depths. In contrast to the behaviour in intermediate water depths, it is shown that the nonlinear shoaling coefficients refrain from their oscillatory nature while presenting an exponential energy transfer. This is explained through the one-dimensional satisfaction of the Bragg resonance conditions by wave triads due to the non-dispersive propagation in this region even without depth changes. The energy evolution model is localized using a matching approach to account for both these behaviour types. The model is evaluated with respect to deterministic ensembles, field measurements and laboratory experiments while performing well in modelling monochromatic superharmonic self-interactions and infra-gravity wave generation from bichromatic waves and a realistic wave spectrum evolution. This lays physical and mathematical grounds for the validity of unexplained simplifications in former works and the capability to construct a formulation that consistently accounts for nonlinear energy transfers from deep to shallow water.
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Apriliani, Vina, Ikhsan Maulidi i Budi Azhari. "Extended F-Expansion Method for Solving the modified Korteweg-de Vries (mKdV) Equation". Al-Jabar : Jurnal Pendidikan Matematika 11, nr 1 (24.06.2020): 93–100. http://dx.doi.org/10.24042/ajpm.v11i1.5153.

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One of the phenomenon in marine science that is often encountered is the phenomenon of water waves. Waves that occur below the surface of seawater are called internal waves. One of the mathematical models that can represent solitary internal waves is the modified Korteweg-de Vries (mKdV) equation. Many methods can be used to construct the solution of the mKdV wave equation, one of which is the extended F-expansion method. The purpose of this study is to determine the solution of the mKdV wave equation using the extended F-expansion method. The result of solving the mKdV wave equation is the exact solutions. The exact solutions of the mKdV wave equation are expressed in the Jacobi elliptic functions, trigonometric functions, and hyperbolic functions. From this research, it is expected to be able to add insight and knowledge about the implementation of the innovative methods for solving wave equations.
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Ai, Hongzhou, Lingkan Yao, Haixin Zhao i Yiliang Zhou. "Shallow-Water-Equation Model for Simulation of Earthquake-Induced Water Waves". Mathematical Problems in Engineering 2017 (2017): 1–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2017/3252498.

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A shallow-water equation (SWE) is used to simulate earthquake-induced water waves in this study. A finite-difference method is used to calculate the SWE. The model is verified against the models of Sato and of Demirel and Aydin with three kinds of seismic waves, and the numerical results of earthquake-induced water waves calculated using the proposed model are reasonable. It is also demonstrated that the proposed model is reliable. Finally, an empirical equation for the maximum water elevation of earthquake-induced water waves is developed based on the results obtained using the model, which is an improvement on former models.
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20

Wang, Mian, Zhan Wang i Hennes Hajduk. "Nonlinear interactions of nearly non-dispersive equatorial shallow-water waves". IMA Journal of Applied Mathematics 85, nr 3 (15.04.2020): 365–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/imamat/hxaa009.

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Abstract This paper is concerned with nonlinear interactions of fundamental equatorial modes. In order to understand the mechanism of large-scale atmospheric motions in the near equator regime—especially the observed wavenumber-frequency spectrum—we develop novel models describing interactions among Kelvin, Yanai and Poincaré waves. Based on the methods of multiple scales and Galerkin projection, the primitive equations can be simplified to model equations which reduce the complexity and cost of computation significantly. Subsequently, the detailed numerical results indicate that wave interactions between the aforementioned modes in the non-dispersive regime depends on initial amplitude and relative phase and that the eastward Yanai wave can be generated from the second Poincaré mode. We also compare the simplified models to an advanced finite element approximation for the primitive equations. The fact that results of the latter are in good agreement, at least qualitatively, with those of the simplified models, indicates that reduced models capture most of the wave interaction mechanisms in the nearly non-dispersive regime.
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21

Bennetts, L. G., i T. D. Williams. "Water wave transmission by an array of floating discs". Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 471, nr 2173 (styczeń 2015): 20140698. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2014.0698.

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An experimental validation of theoretical models of regular-water-wave transmission through arrays of floating discs is presented. The experiments were conducted in a wave basin. The models are based on combined potential-flow and thin-plate theories, and the assumption of linear motions. A low-concentration array, in which discs are separated by approximately a disc diameter in equilibrium, and a high-concentration array, in which adjacent discs are almost touching in equilibrium, were used for the experiments. The proportion of incident-wave energy transmitted by the discs is presented as a function of wave period, and for different wave amplitudes. Results indicate the models predict wave-energy transmission accurately for small-amplitude waves and low-concentration arrays. Discrepancies for large-amplitude waves and high-concentration arrays are attributed to wave overwash of the discs and collisions between discs. Validation of model predictions of a solitary disc's rigid-body motions are also presented.
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Melinand, Benjamin. "Long wave approximation for water waves under a Coriolis forcing and the Ostrovsky equation". Proceedings of the Royal Society of Edinburgh: Section A Mathematics 148, nr 6 (19.07.2018): 1201–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0308210518000136.

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This paper is devoted to the study of the long wave approximation for water waves under the influence of the gravity and a Coriolis forcing. We start by deriving a generalization of the Boussinesq equations in one (spatial) dimension and we rigorously justify them as an asymptotic model of water wave equations. These new Boussinesq equations are not the classical Boussinesq equations: a new term due to the vorticity and the Coriolis forcing appears that cannot be neglected. We study the Boussinesq regime and derive and fully justify different asymptotic models when the bottom is flat: a linear equation linked to the Klein–Gordon equation admitting the so-called Poincaré waves; the Ostrovsky equation, which is a generalization of the Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) equation in the presence of a Coriolis forcing, when the rotation is weak; and the KdV equation when the rotation is very weak. Therefore, this work provides the first mathematical justification of the Ostrovsky equation. Finally, we derive a generalization of the Green–Naghdi equations in one spatial dimension for small topography variations and we show that this model is consistent with the water wave equations.
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Lindgren, Georg. "Slepian models for the stochastic shape of individual Lagrange sea waves". Advances in Applied Probability 38, nr 02 (czerwiec 2006): 430–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0001867800001038.

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Gaussian wave models have been successfully used since the early 1950s to describe the development of random sea waves, particularly as input to dynamic simulation of the safety of ships and offshore structures. A drawback of the Gaussian model is that it produces stochastically symmetric waves, which is an unrealistic feature and can lead to unconservative safety estimates. The Gaussian model describes the height of the sea surface at each point as a function of time and space. The Lagrange wave model describes the horizontal and vertical movements of individual water particles as functions of time and original location. This model is physically based, and a stochastic version has recently been advocated as a realistic model for asymmetric water waves. Since the stochastic Lagrange model treats both the vertical and the horizontal movements as Gaussian processes, it can be analysed using methods from the Gaussian theory. In this paper we present an analysis of the stochastic properties of the first-order stochastic Lagrange waves model, both as functions of time and as functions of space. A Slepian model for the description of the random shape of individual waves is also presented and analysed.
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Lindgren, Georg. "Slepian models for the stochastic shape of individual Lagrange sea waves". Advances in Applied Probability 38, nr 2 (czerwiec 2006): 430–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.1239/aap/1151337078.

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Gaussian wave models have been successfully used since the early 1950s to describe the development of random sea waves, particularly as input to dynamic simulation of the safety of ships and offshore structures. A drawback of the Gaussian model is that it produces stochastically symmetric waves, which is an unrealistic feature and can lead to unconservative safety estimates. The Gaussian model describes the height of the sea surface at each point as a function of time and space. The Lagrange wave model describes the horizontal and vertical movements of individual water particles as functions of time and original location. This model is physically based, and a stochastic version has recently been advocated as a realistic model for asymmetric water waves. Since the stochastic Lagrange model treats both the vertical and the horizontal movements as Gaussian processes, it can be analysed using methods from the Gaussian theory. In this paper we present an analysis of the stochastic properties of the first-order stochastic Lagrange waves model, both as functions of time and as functions of space. A Slepian model for the description of the random shape of individual waves is also presented and analysed.
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Ambrose, David M., Jerry L. Bona i David P. Nicholls. "On ill-posedness of truncated series models for water waves". Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 470, nr 2166 (8.06.2014): 20130849. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2013.0849.

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The evolution of surface gravity waves on a large body of water, such as an ocean, is reasonably well approximated by the Euler system for ideal, free-surface flow under the influence of gravity. The well-posedness theory for initial-value problems for these equations, which has a long and distinguished history, reveals that solutions exist, are unique, and depend continuously upon initial data in various function–space contexts. This theory is subtle, and the design of stable, accurate, numerical schemes is likewise challenging. Depending upon the wave regime in question, there are many different approximate models that can be formally derived from the Euler equations. As the Euler system is known to be well-posed, it seems appropriate that associated approximate models should also have this property. This study is directed to this issue. Evidence is presented calling into question the well-posedness of a well-known class of model equations which are widely used in simulations. A simplified version of these models is shown explicitly to be ill-posed and numerical simulations of quadratic- and cubic-order water-wave models, initiated with initial data predicted by the explicit analysis of the simplified model, lends credence to the general contention that these models are ill-posed.
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Shelushinin, Yuriy, i Konstantine Makarov. "Problems and prospects for hydraulic modeling of wave processes in the distorted scales". Stroitel stvo nauka i obrazovanie [Construction Science and Education], nr 2 (30.06.2019): 4. http://dx.doi.org/10.22227/2305-5502.2019.2.4.

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Introduction. The method of scales distortion in physical modeling of wave processes is considered. Distortion of scales is applied in practice, but has an insufficient theoretical basis in relation to researching of the waves impact on hydraulic structures. Development of theoretical basis and practical recommendations for the conversion of model data at the construction site in hydraulic modeling with distortion of scale will allow exploring the extended constructions under the circumstances of laboratory with a limited size, and reduce the building costs of hydraulic models. The prospects of development and application of the method of the scales distortion of physical models have been estimated. Materials and methods. The available methods of the scales distortion of hydraulic models are considered. To estimate the errors arising from the scale distortion of the model, a mathematical modeling of the three typical sections at the coastal area of the sea, subjected to different degrees of the scale distortion has been performed. The parameters of waves in the water area were calculated using the regulatory methodology of the Russian Federation, followed by an analysis of changes in the wave situation caused by distortion of scale. Results. The estimation of existing mathematical apparatus, allowing to deviate from strictly geometric similarity of model and the full-scale object, was given. The parameters of waves on twelve mathematical models with different degrees of the scale distortion were obtained, allowing to explore the impact of method on the results obtained in the modeling. Conclusions. Usage of existing provisions on the scales distortion of hydraulic model at exploring of wave processes in the most cases leads to essential errors in results, or to their full discrepancy of reality. Affine transformations can serve as a basis for the development of the scales distortion on hydraulic models technique. Experimental research can play a crucial role in the development of methodology, estimating the errors and degree of permissible scale distortion. At the moment, without a validated procedure, it is recommended to make a preliminary analysis of refraction plans and wave transformation parameters for determining the degree of permissible scale distortion and estimating the errors that arise.
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Emerald, Louis. "Rigorous Derivation from the Water Waves Equations of Some Full Dispersion Shallow Water Models". SIAM Journal on Mathematical Analysis 53, nr 4 (styczeń 2021): 3772–800. http://dx.doi.org/10.1137/20m1332049.

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28

di Martino, B., F. Flori, C. Giacomoni i P. Orenga. "Mathematical and Numerical Analysis of a Tsunami Problem". Mathematical Models and Methods in Applied Sciences 13, nr 10 (październik 2003): 1489–514. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s0218202503003008.

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In this paper, we present a tsunami model based on the displacement of the lithosphere and the mathematical and numerical analysis of this model. More precisely, we give an existence and uniqueness result for a problem which models the flow and formation of waves at the time of a submarine earthquake in the vicinity of the coast. We propose a model which describes the behavior of the fluid using a bi-dimensional shallow-water model by means of a depth-mean velocity formulation. The ocean is coupled to the Earth's crust whose movement is assumed to be controlled on a large scale by plate equations. Finally, we give some numerical results showing the formation of a tsunami.
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29

Waswa, G. W., i S. A. Lorentz. "A model of landslide triggering by transient pressure waves". Hydrology and Earth System Sciences Discussions 11, nr 2 (26.02.2014): 2355–90. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/hessd-11-2355-2014.

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Abstract. Previous studies indicate that most rainfall-triggered shallow landslides are initiated by a spike in rainfall intensity, which does not usually occur at the beginning of a critical storm, within which the slide is triggered, but after several minutes (or hours) of the storm. The critical storm is also usually not positioned at the beginning of a rainfall season, but after several days of antecedent period. Rainfall triggers landslides via rapid increase in pore water pressure, commonly associated with the change in water content. Consequently, many hydrologic pressure wave models assume that rapid pore water pressure responses are as a result of rapid infiltration of rainwater. On the contrary, this paper argues that, based on the above timings of landslide occurrences and the knowledge that infiltration rate decays with the soil wetness, the rapid increase in pore water pressure that triggers shallow landslides is as a result of rapid introduction of additional energy into the tension saturated (or nearly saturated) zone by the intense rainfall at the ground surface, without infiltration. Antecedent and critical precipitations are significant in creating a tension saturated zone, necessary for rapid transmission of the introduced energy from the ground surface to the lower soil horizons during the critical storm. These arguments are supported by a newly proposed one-dimensional diffusion mathematical model, which, when solved for the appropriate boundary conditions, can yield pore water pressure at any time and depth of a tension-saturated soil profile, without infiltration. The newly proposed diffusion model is mathematically similar to Iverson's model (Iverson, 2000), except that the hydraulic diffusivity parameter in the latter is substituted with a newly proposed energy diffusivity coefficient in the former. A combination of the new diffusion model and the infinite slope model can predict the stability of a shallow slope as a result of transient pore water pressure.
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30

Ali, Alfatih, i Henrik Kalisch. "Mechanical Balance Laws for Boussinesq Models of Surface Water Waves". Journal of Nonlinear Science 22, nr 3 (12.01.2012): 371–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00332-011-9121-2.

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31

Miyata, Hideaki, Makoto Kanai, Noriaki Yoshiyasu i Yohichi Furuno. "Diffraction Waves About an Advancing Wedge Model in Deep Water". Journal of Ship Research 34, nr 02 (1.06.1990): 105–22. http://dx.doi.org/10.5957/jsr.1990.34.2.105.

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The diffraction of regular waves by advancing wedge models is studied both experimentally and numerically. The nonlinear features of diffracted waves are visualized by wave pattern pictures and the formation is analyzed by the grid-projection method. The experimental observation indicates that the diffracted waves have a number of nonlinear characteristics similar to shock waves due to the interaction of incident waves with the advancing obstacle in the flow-field caused by the advancing motion. Bow waves of both oblique type and normal detached type are observed at remarkably lower Froude numbers than in the case of a ship in steady advance motion. Their occurrence systematically depends on the Froude number and the wedge angle. The numerical simulation of this phenomenon by a finite-difference method shows approximate agreement with the experimental results.
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32

Jones, Alan F., i A. Hulme. "The Hydrodynamics of Water on Deck". Journal of Ship Research 31, nr 02 (1.06.1987): 125–35. http://dx.doi.org/10.5957/jsr.1987.31.2.125.

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We consider the wave motion produced in a rolling water-filled tank, which models the hydrodynamics of water trapped on a ship's deck. The waves produced are seen to depend on the values of four dimensionless parameters. Discussion is given of the most physically relevant of the many possible parameter regimes. Solutions are found by a combination of asymptotic and numerical methods. It is shown that significant turning moments can be exerted on the vessel by the transient waves that are produced in the general case. Even larger effects are possible if the forcing frequency happens to lie close to a resonance frequency of the system.
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33

Fiorot, G. H., G. F. Maciel i C. Kitano. "MATHEMATICAL MODEL AND EXPERIMENTAL PROCEEDINGS TO DETERMINE ROLL WAVES IN OPEN CHANNELS". Revista de Engenharia Térmica 10, nr 1-2 (31.12.2011): 55. http://dx.doi.org/10.5380/reterm.v10i1-2.61953.

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The goal of this paper is consolidate a representative model previously developed by RMVP team (Rheological Studies on Viscous and Viscousplastic Materials) from UNESP - Ilha Solteira, for a typical phenomenonthat occurs on spillways, river's bed, landslides, mudflows, blood flows, for Newtonian and non-Newtonian fluids, known as roll waves. Another goal of this paper is present an experimental project designed for capturing measurements (amplitude and wavelength) of these instabilities. From a mathematical perspective, a first-order analytical model is showed, based on Cauchy's equations system, once developed by the team (Ferreira, 2007), which provides a generation condition for roll waves through temporal linear stability analysis. This model follows the remarkable work of Dressler (1949) and it is able to generate roll waves for many rheological configurations, from Newtonian to Herschel & Bulkley models, representing clean water up to muddy mixtures, respectively. A numerical routine developed in Matlab/Simulink is used to show some results that illustrate roll waves pattern. Due to the lack of roll waves data (amplitude and wavelength), the team started to focus on the experimental approach of the phenomenon, aiming to design an apparatus that would be capable to reproduce roll waves in special conditions of flow, isolated from external perturbations. This project is here presented along with a proposal of a photometric system to ascertain measures of the flow height through light absorption technique, based on experiments found in the literature. The final execution of this experiment and the correct obtaining of amplitude and wavelength will contribute for the validation of the model here presented.
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34

Avila, Deivis, Graciliano Nicolás Marichal, Ramón Quiza i Felipe San Luis. "Prediction of Wave Energy Transformation Capability in Isolated Islands by Using the Monte Carlo Method". Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, nr 9 (7.09.2021): 980. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9090980.

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In this work, a mathematical computer simulation model is used to predict the possible energy generated from different Waves Energy Converters (WECs) in the Canary Islands. The Monte Carlo Method is the computer simulation model proposed to predict the generated energy. The Waves Energy Converter systems analyzed in the study were, the Aqua Buoy, Wave Dragon and Pelamis converters. The models were implemented and validated, with the dataset of Gran Canaria deep water buoy. This buoy belongs to a network of buoys belonging to Spain’s State Ports and they cover a dataset period of 22 years. The research has concluded that it is possible to affirm that the achieved model is a strong tool to compute the possible energy of any WECs, when the power matrix is known. The model based on the Monte Carlo simulation can be used in isolated islands of the Atlantic Ocean and can be extrapolated to other regions with the same characteristics.
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35

Alfaro Vigo, Daniel G., i Gladys Calle Cardeña. "A family of asymptotic models for internal waves propagating in intermediate/deep water". Communications in Mathematical Sciences 16, nr 3 (2018): 809–19. http://dx.doi.org/10.4310/cms.2018.v16.n3.a10.

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36

Duchêne, Vincent. "Asymptotic models for the generation of internal waves by a moving ship, and the dead-water phenomenon". Nonlinearity 24, nr 8 (1.07.2011): 2281–323. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/0951-7715/24/8/008.

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37

Kolyadenko, Yu Yu, i N. А. Chursanov. "5 G communication network signal propagation models". Radiotekhnika, nr 205 (2.07.2021): 161–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.30837/rt.2021.2.205.17.

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The next generation 5G / IMT-2020 technology, like any new technology, brings its own specific features to all aspects related to the practice of its application. One of these particularly important aspects is electromagnetic compatibility. At the stage of preparation for the introduction of 5G radio networks, called NewRadio, it is necessary to take early measures to assess effectively the electromagnetic compatibility conditions for these networks based on a thorough analysis of the features of 5G technology. Correct and accurate assessments of these conditions means successful provision of the electromagnetic compatibility of radio equipment of new networks. The World Radio Communication Conference WRC-15 identified new radio frequency bands for 5G, including centimeter and millimeter wave bands. In general, this RF spectrum is located in three regions: below 1 GHz, 1 GHz to 6 GHz, and above 6 GHz (up to 100 GHz). From the EMC standpoint, the following can be distinguished as the main features of this spectrum: different nature of losses during signal propagation, in particular, a significant influence of additional factors (gases – oxygen, water vapor, etc.) on the level of losses previously unknown in cellular communication. The mathematical model of signal propagation of 5 G communication networks has been developed which takes into account: the attenuation of signals in free space; attenuation of signals caused by the influence of walls and floor slabs, loss of signal energy, when space is filled with various objects; attenuation of signals caused by loss of energy of radio waves, when propagating through rains; signal attenuation due to loss of radio wave energy due to fog; signal attenuation, when propagating through tree leaves, slow and fast random fading.
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38

Gunawan, Dr Putu Harry. "OpenMP Performance in Numerical Simulation of Dambreak Problem Using Shallow Water Equations". Lontar Komputer : Jurnal Ilmiah Teknologi Informasi 11, nr 1 (30.04.2020): 1. http://dx.doi.org/10.24843/lkjiti.2020.v11.i01.p01.

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Numerical simulation of water surface waves is widely used to describe water flow and its impact for human life. For instance, numerical simulation of waves is elaborated to simulate Tsunami as an early warning system. Using numerical approach, the study of water flow will reduce cost and save time compared with the conventional approach (in laboratory). Shallow water equations (SWE) is one of the mathematical models which can be used to describe water flow. In numerical simulation of SWE, finite volume method is a robust method to approximate SWE. The result using numerical approach depends on the number of grids. High number of grids then smooth solution can be obtained. However, increasing number of grids leads to the increasing of computational cost. In this paper, parallel computing using OpenMP platform is given in order to reduce computational cost of numerical simulation. In parallel computing performances, Speedup andEfficiency of numerical simulation using 6400 grids points are obtained 4 times and 51% respectively.Moreover, by several numbers of cores from 2 to 8, CPU time of parallel computing is shown decreasing along the increasing number of computer cores.
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39

Rubino, A., S. Pierini i J. O. Backhaus. "Dispersive mudslide-induced tsunamis". Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 5, nr 3 (30.09.1998): 127–36. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-5-127-1998.

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Abstract. A nonlinear nested model for mudslide-induced tsunamis is proposed in which three phases of the life of the wave, i.e. the generation, far-field propagation and costal run-up are described by means of different mathematical models, that are coupled through appropriate matching procedures. The generation and run-up dynamics are simulated through a nonlinear shallow-water model with movable lateral boundaries: in the generation region two active layers are present, the lower one describing the slide descending on a sloping topography. For the intermediate phase, representing wave propagation far from the generation region, the hydrostatic assumption is not assumed as appropriate in general and, therefore, a nonlinear model allowing for weak phase dispersion, namely a Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, is used. This choice is made in order to assess the relevance of dispersive features such as solitary waves and dispersive tails. It is shown that in some realistic circumstances dispersive mudslide-induced tsunami waves can be produced over relatively short, distances. In such cases the use of a hydrostatic model throughout the whole tsunami history turns out to give erroneous results. In particular, when solitary waves are generated during the tsunami propagation in the open sea, the resulting run-up process yields peculiar wave forms leading to amplified coastal inundations with respect to a mere hydrostatic context.
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40

Katsardi, V., i C. Swan. "The evolution of large non-breaking waves in intermediate and shallow water. I. Numerical calculations of uni-directional seas". Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 467, nr 2127 (wrzesień 2010): 778–805. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2010.0280.

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In deep water it is well known that the evolution of the largest waves in realistic, broad-banded frequency spectra is governed by dispersive focusing. However, as the water depth reduces this process weakens and the relative significance of wave modulation is shown to be increasingly important. This leads to very different extreme wave groups, the properties of which are critically dependent upon the local nonlinearity. To explore these effects, and to provide a physical explanation for their occurrence, two complementary wave models are employed. The combined numerical results show that the nature of large uni-directional waves varies depending on the relative water depth. As the water depth reduces, both the bound and resonant interactions become more significant. However, the third-order resonant terms have the most profound influence. By modifying both the amplitude and phase of the underlying linear wave components, the largest waves arise as a local instability within a truncated quasi-regular wave train; the latter appearing because of an initial narrowing of the underlying frequency spectrum. Furthermore, the numerical calculations show that, with large changes in both the spectral shape and the phasing of the wave components, both the maximum crest elevations and wave heights are less than those predicted by linear theory.
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41

Wolf, J., i R. A. Flather. "Modelling waves and surges during the 1953 storm". Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 363, nr 1831 (14.06.2005): 1359–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2005.1572.

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Waves and sea levels have been modelled for the storm of 31 January–1 February 1953. Problems in modelling this event are associated with the difficulty of reconstructing wind fields and validating the model results with the limited data available from 50 years ago. The reconstruction of appropriate wind fields for surge and wave models is examined. The surges and waves are reproduced reasonably well on the basis of tide-gauge observations and the sparse observational information on wave heights. The maximum surge coincided closely in time with tidal high water, producing very high water levels along the coasts of the southern North Sea. The statistics of the 1953 event and the likelihood of recurrence are also discussed. Both surge and wave components were estimated to be approximately 1 in 50 year events. The maximum water level also occurred when the offshore waves were close to their maximum. The estimation of return period for the total water level is more problematic and is dependent on location. A scenario with the 1953 storm occurring in 2075, accounting for the effects of sea level rise and land movements, is also constructed, suggesting that sea level relative to the land could be 0.4–0.5 m higher than in 1953 in the southern North Sea, assuming a rise in mean sea level of 0.4 m.
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42

Pierson, Willard J., i Azed Jean-Pierre. "Monte Carlo Simulations of Nonlinear Ocean Wave Records with Implications for Models of Breaking Waves". Journal of Ship Research 43, nr 02 (1.06.1999): 121–34. http://dx.doi.org/10.5957/jsr.1999.43.2.121.

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A Monte Carlo method for simulating nonlinear ocean wave records as a function of time is described. It is based on a family of probability density functions developed by Karl Pearson and requires additional knowledge of the dimensionless moments of a postulated nonlinear wave record, which are the skewness and kurtosis. A frequency spectrum is used to simulate a linear record. It is then transformed to a nonlinear record for the chosen values of the skewness and kurtosis. The result is not a perturbation expansion of the nonlinear equations that describe unbroken waves. It yields a simulated wave record that reproduces the chosen values for the skewness and, if needed, the kurtosis of a wave record so that the statistical properties are modeled. A brief history of the development of the linear model, presently in use, is given along with a survey of wave data that show the variability of the nonlinear properties of wave records. The need for a nonlinear model of waves for naval architecture, remote sensing and other design problems is shown. This method cannot provide any information on whether a particular wave will break. Some of the recent results on breaking waves and "green water" are reviewed. The possibility that this method can be extended based on the concept of a "local absorbing patch" is described.
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43

Qiao, Fangli, Yeli Yuan, Jia Deng, Dejun Dai i Zhenya Song. "Wave–turbulence interaction-induced vertical mixing and its effects in ocean and climate models". Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 374, nr 2065 (13.04.2016): 20150201. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2015.0201.

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Heated from above, the oceans are stably stratified. Therefore, the performance of general ocean circulation models and climate studies through coupled atmosphere–ocean models depends critically on vertical mixing of energy and momentum in the water column. Many of the traditional general circulation models are based on total kinetic energy (TKE), in which the roles of waves are averaged out. Although theoretical calculations suggest that waves could greatly enhance coexisting turbulence, no field measurements on turbulence have ever validated this mechanism directly. To address this problem, a specially designed field experiment has been conducted. The experimental results indicate that the wave–turbulence interaction-induced enhancement of the background turbulence is indeed the predominant mechanism for turbulence generation and enhancement. Based on this understanding, we propose a new parametrization for vertical mixing as an additive part to the traditional TKE approach. This new result reconfirmed the past theoretical model that had been tested and validated in numerical model experiments and field observations. It firmly establishes the critical role of wave–turbulence interaction effects in both general ocean circulation models and atmosphere–ocean coupled models, which could greatly improve the understanding of the sea surface temperature and water column properties distributions, and hence model-based climate forecasting capability.
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44

Acanfora, Begovic i De Luca. "A Fast Simulation Method for Damaged Ship Dynamics". Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, nr 4 (19.04.2019): 111. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040111.

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Ship accidents that entail flooding may lead to disastrous consequences which could be avoided or mitigated based on the knowledge of damaged ship dynamics. The dynamic behaviour of a damaged hull is a complex phenomenon involving the interaction of the flooded water and the ship motions. The presence of a damage opening allows water flow into and out from the compartment, which further complicates the mathematical description of the problem. A fast simulation method, based on the lumped mass approach, is developed and presented. The lumped mass path in space depends on free-surface inclinations that differ from the ship angles of the roll and pitch. The viscous effects in the floodwater dynamics are implemented based on the model for the dissipation of the energy of standing waves in rectangular rooms. The method applies to both the transient stage of flooding and to the dynamic behaviour of a flooded ship in regular waves. In the first case, viscous effects are implemented considering the water in the compartment variable with time. Several case studies are carried out on three different hull models: Transient stage of flooding, roll decay of the damaged hull, and steady state responses in waves are simulated and compared with available experimental data.
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45

Meng, Zhongliang, Yanjun Liu, Jian Qin i Yun Chen. "Mathematical Modeling and Experimental Verification of a New Wave Energy Converter". Energies 14, nr 1 (31.12.2020): 177. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/en14010177.

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As traditional energy sources are increasingly depleting, ocean energy has become an emergent potential clean energy source. Wave energy, as an important part of ocean-derived energy, has been studied and utilized by coastal countries worldwide, which have developed various wave energy converters. In this paper, a new wave energy converter is designed, and water movement in fluid channels is analyzed. The results are, then, used to generate a mathematical model that simulates water movement. Based on this approach, the water movement state is analyzed, and a formula for calculating the natural frequency of water movement in the power generator is derived. The formula shows that the characteristic length of the water movement in the proposed generator and the backboard tilt angle at the exit point of the fluid channel are two design-related variables that can be used to alter the natural frequency; a regular wave experiment is conducted based on the fluid model, which is designed based on the natural frequency formula, to verify the changes in model torque and speed as well as whether the model can operate under normal wave conditions. This study lays a theoretical foundation for the design of further experiments and engineering prototypes to verify the validity of mathematical models by way of experimental analysis.
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46

Risselada, Tj J., i C. Deelen. "AN ADJUSTABLE MARINE FENDER SYSTEM PROGRAMMED WITH THE AID OF NUMERICAL MODELS IN ORDER TO MINIMIZE BERTHING AND MOORING LOADS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, nr 20 (29.01.1986): 203. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.203.

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An adjustable marine fender system, programmed with the aid of mathematical models, can substantially contribute to safer berthing and mooring of ships with various water displacements, operating at high or at low speed under varying wind, wave and current conditions. This doesn't only imply a reduction of risks to vessel and terminal structures but also in case of exposed sites or of unruly waters, a - possible substantial - reduction of ship's costly down-time.
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47

Burde, Georgy I. "Solitary wave solutions of the high-order KdV models for bi-directional water waves". Communications in Nonlinear Science and Numerical Simulation 16, nr 3 (marzec 2011): 1314–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cnsns.2010.06.032.

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48

Ting, Chao-Lung, i Ming-Chung Lin. "Generation of Harmonics by Non-Breaking Water Waves Over Permeable Submerged Breakwaters". Journal of Mechanics 20, nr 1 (marzec 2004): 57–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s1727719100004044.

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ABSTRACTThis work examines the interesting phenomenon of the generation of harmonics by non-breaking waves over permeable submerged obstacles. Nine model geometries, each with six different porosities, from 0.421 to 0.912, were considered to examine the effects of model width, porosity, and submergence depth on harmonic generation. The results revealed coupled effects on harmonic generation. A modified Ursell number was proposed to analyze experimental data. Almost no harmonic generation occurs at a modified Ursell number of less than five and/or a model width to wavelength ratio of over 1.6. After harmonics have been generated, wave profiles become dimpled, and the energy of the fundamental mode is transferred to higher-frequency components. Furthermore, the higher harmonics become more pronounced as the models widen, the depth of submergence becomes shallower, and model porosity declines.
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49

Purwono, Novi. "ANALISA KEJADIAN GELOMBANG DENGAN METODE EMPIRIK DAN MODEL MATEMATIK DI KAWASAN PERAIRAN PELABUHAN TANJUNG LAUT". Gorontalo Journal of Infrastructure and Science Engineering 3, nr 1 (1.04.2020): 1. http://dx.doi.org/10.32662/gojise.v3i1.862.

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Tanjung Laut is water located in the administrative area of Bontang Regency, East Kalimantan. These waters are widely used for ship traffic to and from the Port. To find out the hydrodynamic conditions, especially waves that occur in the sea and propagate into these waters, it is necessary to analyze wave transformations to describe the conditions and impacts that occur due to wave propagation from the high seas that enter the port waters. The purpose of this study is to look at the shipping security channel. The method used in analyzing wind data from BMKG into wave data and modeling with cgwave mathematical models. Wave analysis is carried out with a cgwave model mathematical to determine the hydrodynamic conditions of the waves and to determine the shipping obstacles and to describe the plan waves that occur as one of the bases in determining the elevation of the pier and port breakwater structures. The results showed the conversion of wind speed and direction to be high, the period and direction of waves in the waters of Tanjung Laut in 2006-2016. The maximum significant wave height in the waters of Tanjung Laut occurred in 2007 was 3.91 meters with a period of 7.89 seconds. The results of statistical analysis using the wave recurrence method show that the wave height can occur or exceed for a 50 year return period is 4.80 meters to 5.54 meters, while the 10 year return period is 3.70 meters to 4.17 meters. The results of the waveform simulation with the cgwave are the wave height in the harbor pool ranging from 0.03 meters to 0.06 meters in the direction of waves from the Northeast, 0.03 meters to 0.07 meters in the direction of waves from the East, and 0.05 meters up to 0.09 meters in the direction of waves from the Southeast. Simulation results show that the conditions in the port pond are quite safe and calm against wave attacksTanjung laut merupakan pelabuhan perairan yang berada di wilayah administrasi Kabupaten Bontang Kalimantan Timur, dimana banyak digunakan untuk lalu lintas kapal yang menuju dan keluar dari Pelabuhan. Untuk mengetahui kondisi hidrodinamika khususnya gelombang yang terjadi di laut dan merambat ke perairan tersebut, perlu adanya analisa transformasi gelombang untuk menggambarkan kondisi dan dampak yang terjadi akibat perambatan gelombang dari laut lepas yang masuk ke kawasan perairan pelabuhan. Tujuan dari penelitian ini adalah untuk melihat keamanan alur pelayaran. Metode yang digunakan yaitu menganalisa data angin dari BMKG menjadi data gelombang dan pemodelan dengan model matematik cgwave. Analisa gelombang dilakukan dengan model matematik model cgwave untuk mengetahui kondisi hidrodinamika gelombang dan untuk mengetahui hambatan pelayaran serta untuk menggambarkan gelombang rencana yang terjadi sebagai salah satu dasar dalam penentuan elevasi dermaga dan bangunan pemecah gelombang pelabuhan. Hasil penelitian menunjukan konversi kecepatan dan arah angin menjadi tinggi, periode dan arah gelombang di perairan Tanjung laut Tahun 2006-2016. Tinggi gelombang signifikan maksimum di perairan Tanjung Laut terjadi pada tahun 2007 adalah 3,91 meter dengan periode 7,89 detik. Hasil analisa statistik menggunakan metode kala ulang kejadian gelombang, menunjukkan tinggi gelombang dapat terjadi atau terlampaui untuk kala ulang 50 tahun adalah 4,80 meter sampai dengan 5,54 meter, sedangkan kala ulang 10 tahun adalah 3,70 meter sampai dengan 4,17 meter. Hasil simulasi trasformasi dgelombang dengan model cgwave adalah tinggi gelombang di kolam pelabuhan berkisar antara 0,03 meter sampai dengan 0,06 meter dengan arah datang gelombang dari Timur Laut, 0,03 meter sampai dengan 0,07 meter dengan arah datang gelombang dari Timur, dan 0,05 meter sampai dengan 0,09 meter dengan arah datang gelombang dari Tenggara. Hasil simulasi menunjukkan kondisi di kolam pelabuhan cukup aman dan tenang terhadap serangan gelombang.
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50

Wazwaz, Abdul-Majid. "Painlevé analysis for three integrable shallow water waves equations with time-dependent coefficients". International Journal of Numerical Methods for Heat & Fluid Flow 30, nr 2 (28.08.2019): 996–1008. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/hff-07-2019-0555.

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Purpose The purpose of this paper is concerned with investigating three integrable shallow water waves equations with time-dependent coefficients. The author obtains multiple soliton solutions and multiple complex soliton solutions for these three models. Design/methodology/approach The newly developed equations with time-dependent coefficients have been handled by using Hirota’s direct method. The author also uses the complex Hirota’s criteria for deriving multiple complex soliton solutions. Findings The developed integrable models exhibit complete integrability for any analytic time-dependent coefficients defined though compatibility conditions. Research limitations/implications The paper presents an efficient algorithm for handling time-dependent integrable equations with analytic time-dependent coefficients. Practical implications This study introduces three new integrable shallow water waves equations with time-dependent coefficients. These models represent more specific data than the related equations with constant coefficients. The author shows that integrable equations with time-dependent coefficients give real and complex soliton solutions. Social implications The paper presents useful algorithms for finding integrable equations with time-dependent coefficients. Originality/value The paper presents an original work with a variety of useful findings.
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