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Artykuły w czasopismach na temat "Sloping beach"

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Hsu, Tai-Wen, Jian-Wu Lai i Yuan-Jyh Lan. "EXPERIMENTAL AND NUMERICAL STUDIES ON WAVE PROPAGATION OVER COARSE GRAINED SLOPING BEACH". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, nr 32 (25.01.2011): 26. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.26.

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In this paper, the hydrodynamics and turbulence on wave propagation over coarse grained sloping beach is investigated by both experimental and numerical methods. The coarse grained sloping beach was conducted over a 1:5 smooth inclined bottom with two layers of spherical balls. A set of newly and rarely experimental data for the distribution and evolution of the wave and velocity field over porous sloping beach were measured in this study. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) and digital image process (DIP) techniques are employed to measure the flow field and free surface both inside and outside regions for a coarse grain porous sloping bed. Eleven fields of views (FOVs) were integrated to represent the global results converting the entire propagating waves from the outer to the inner surf zones and swash zones. In addition, a high-resolution CCD Camera was constructed to capture wave propagating images continuously. Subsequent digital image processing (DIP) techniques that including image enhancement, coordinate transformation, edge detection and sub-pixel concept for resolution advancement were developed to analysis the image and get the information of wave motions. In this experimental study, the PIV and DIP techniques offer a possibility for measuring full scale spatio-temporal information of the wave motions and velocity field within / without the porous sloping bed without instructive instrument. Furthermore, the FLOW-3D which based on the Navier-Stokes equations was adopted for CFD computations. The direct three-dimensional simulations were employed for simulating wave profile and velocity field for the sloping beach. Numerical results were favorably compared with experiments to examine the validity of the model. According to the comparison of the wave and velocity data of hydraulic physical model with computational results, the direct three-dimensional simulations method can offer results much agreement with the experimental data in the global regions. The results showed that direct three-dimensional simulations can resolve the wave and velocity profile more complete and reasonable descriptions from outer to the inner porous layer and it is true no matter in the surf zone, swash zone and within the porous layer. Moreover, according to the experimental analysis, the process of the turbulence characteristics of the maximum turbulent kinetic energy, turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate and turbulence intensity occurred between the toe of breaker and surface of porous layer. In addition, general discussion of hydrodynamics and turbulence on wave propagation over coarse grained sloping beach and impermeable sloping bed were investigated with the results of direct three-dimensional simulations in this study. The results showed that wave propagation over coarse grained sloping beach effects the breaker types in the shallow water, i.e. the steepening and overturning of the front face due to plunging breaker over impermeable sloping beach becomes indistinctively and the breaker type transform into the collapsing type. Besides, the dissipation of wave energy due to the role of infiltration and friction are significant differences from surf zone to swash zone between the coarse grained and impermeable sloping beach.
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Constantin, Adrian. "Edge waves along a sloping beach". Journal of Physics A: Mathematical and General 34, nr 45 (6.11.2001): 9723–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/0305-4470/34/45/311.

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EVANS, D. V. "EDGE WAVES OVER A SLOPING BEACH". Quarterly Journal of Mechanics and Applied Mathematics 42, nr 1 (1989): 131–42. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/qjmam/42.1.131.

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Raubenheimer, B., R. T. Guza, Steve Elgar i N. Kobayashi. "Swash on a gently sloping beach". Journal of Geophysical Research 100, nr C5 (1995): 8751. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/95jc00232.

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Ton, Bui An. "Water waves over a sloping beach". Journal of Mathematical Analysis and Applications 122, nr 2 (marzec 1987): 555–81. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0022-247x(87)90284-8.

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Izumiya, Takashi, i Masahiko Isobe. "BREAKING CRITERION ON NON-UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, nr 20 (29.01.1986): 25. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.25.

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This paper deals with the breaker height on non-uniformly sloping beaches. A large number of experiments were carried out to obtain a breaking criterion on bar and step-type beaches. Based on the experimental data, a relationship among the breaker height, water depth, and wave period is investigated for various bottom configurations. As a result, the breaker height on non-uniformly sloping beaches is found to be well predicted by substituting an equivalent bottom slope in Goda's breaker index which has been obtained for uniformly sloping beaches. The equivalent bottom slope is defined as the mean slope in the distance of 5hg offshoreward from a breaking point, where hg denotes the water depth at the breaking point. The method for calculating the breaker height on natural beaches is also presented.
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Billson, Oliver, Paul Russell i Mark Davidson. "Storm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, nr 5 (11.05.2019): 139. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7050139.

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Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005–0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditions, how their importance varies on different beach types, and with different mixes of swell and wind-waves is largely unknown. Here, a new dataset, comprising shoreline video observations from five contrasting sites (one low-sloping sandy beach, two steep gravel beaches, and two compound/mixed sand and gravel beaches), under storm wave conditions (deep water wave height, H0 up to 6.6 m, and peak period, Tp up to 18.2 s), was used to assess: how the importance and dominance of infragravity waves varies at the shoreline? In this previously unstudied combination of wave and morphological conditions, significant infragravity swash heights (Sig) at the shoreline in excess of 0.5 m were consistently observed on all five contrasting beaches. The largest infragravity swash heights were observed on a steep gravel beach, followed by the low-sloping sandy beach, and lowest on the compound/mixed sites. Due to contrasting short wave breaking and dissipation processes, infragravity frequencies were observed to be most dominant over gravity frequencies on the low-sloping sandy beach, occasionally dominant on the gravel beaches, and rarely dominant on the compound/mixed beaches. Existing empirical predictive relationships were shown to parameterize Sig skillfully on the sand and gravel beaches separately. Deep water wave power was found to accurately predict Sig on both the sand and gravel beaches, demonstrating that, under storm wave conditions, the wave heights and periods are the main drivers of infragravity oscillations at the shoreline, with the beach morphology playing a secondary role. The exception to this was the compound/mixed beach sites where shoreline infragravity energy remained low.
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IFUKU, MAKOTO. "Propagation of long wave on sloping beach." PROCEEDINGS OF COASTAL ENGINEERING, JSCE 36 (1989): 99–103. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/proce1989.36.99.

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Miles, John. "Edge waves on a gently sloping beach". Journal of Fluid Mechanics 199 (luty 1989): 125–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112089000315.

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Edge waves of frequency ω and longshore wavenumber k in water of depth h(y) = h1H(σy/h1), 0 [les ] y < ∞, are calculated through an asymptotic expansion in σ/kh1 on the assumptions that σ [Lt ] 1 and kh1 = O(1). Approximations to the free-surface displacement in an inner domain that includes the singular point at h = 0 and the turning point near gh ≈ ω2/K2 and to the eigenvalue λ ≡ ω2/σgh are obtained for the complete set of modes on the assumption that h(y) is analytic. A uniformly valid approximation for the free-surface displacement and a variational approximation to Λ are obtained for the dominant mode. The results are compared with the shallow-water approximations of Ball (1967) for a slope that decays exponentially from σ to 0 as h increases from 0 to h1 and of Minzoni (1976) for a uniform slope that joins h = 0 to a flat bottom at h = h1 and with the geometrical-optics approximation of Shen, Meyer & Keller (1968).
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Miles, John. "Wave reflection from a gently sloping beach". Journal of Fluid Mechanics 214, nr -1 (maj 1990): 59. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112090000040.

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Rozprawy doktorskie na temat "Sloping beach"

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Baryla, Andrew John. "Laboratory measurements of wave-induced near-bed velocity over a sloping natural sand beach". Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1999. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk2/ftp01/MQ35051.pdf.

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Teo, Hhih-Ting, i h. teo@griffith edu au. "Tidal Dynamics in Coastal Aquifers". Griffith University. School of Engineering, 2003. http://www4.gu.edu.au:8080/adt-root/public/adt-QGU20030729.155028.

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The prediction of coastal groundwater movement is necessary in coastal management. However, the study in this field is still a great challenge due to the involvement of tidal-groundwater interactions and the phenomena of hydrodynamic dispersion between salt-fresh water in the coastal region. To date, numerous theories for groundwater dynamic have been made available in analytical, numerical and also experimental forms. Nevertheless, most of them are based on the zeroth-order shallow flow, i.e. Boussinesq approximation. Two main components for coastal unconfined aquifer have been completed in this Thesis: the vertical beach model and the sloping beach model. Both solutions are solved in closed-form up to higher order with shallow water parameter ([epsilon]) and tidal amplitude parameter ([alpha]). The vertical beach solution contributes to the higher-order tidal fluctuations while the sloping beach model overcomes the shortcomings in the existing solutions. From this study, higher-order components are found to be significant especially for larger value of [alpha] and [epsilon]. Other parameters such as hydraulic conductivity (K) and the thickness of aquifer (D) also affect the water table fluctuations. The new sloping solution demonstrated the significant influence of beach slope ([beta]) on the water table fluctuations. A comprehensive comparison between previous solution and the present sloping solution have been performed mathematically and numerically and the present solution has been demonstrated to provide a better prediction
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Zikmunda, Václav. "Alzheimer centrum". Master's thesis, Vysoké učení technické v Brně. Fakulta stavební, 2019. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-392035.

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The diploma thesis solves the new building of the medical facility. The building will serve as a home for people with Alzheimer's disease and other types of dementia. The facility will be equipped and equipped to provide modern nursing care that focuses on Alzheimer's clients in all stages of the disease and other types of dementia. If necessary, a nursing doctor with a nurse will be present in the facility. The nursing doctor has a separate medical office in 1st floor. In addition, a phototherapeutic beach in the 1st floor, which has a favorable influence on human psyche and helps in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease, will also serve to the clients. Furthermore, it will be possible for the clients of this facility to use the accompanying services of commuter hairdressers and pedicurists / manicurists who will use the multipurpose room (canteen) in their 2nd floor for their work. The kitchen has been designed to prepare and dispatch imported food.
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Wang, Yunli. "Etude expérimentale et numérique des oscillations hydrodynamiques en milieux poreux partiellement saturés". Thesis, Toulouse, INPT, 2010. http://www.theses.fr/2010INPT0127/document.

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Cette thèse vise à étudier expérimentalement, analytiquement et numériquement, les conséquences de variations et d'oscillations hydrodynamiques à forte variabilité temporelle en milieux poreux partiellement saturés. Les problèmes que nous étudions comportent des surfaces libres tant à l'extérieur qu'à l'intérieur des milieux poreux, celles-ci étant définies comme des isosurfaces de pression d'eau égale à la pression atmosphérique (Pwater = Patm). Les différentes études expérimentales réalisées en laboratoire sont, respectivement : une expérience d'imbibition dans une boite à sable avec effets capillaires importants; la transmission d'oscillations de la surface libre à travers un massif sableux intercalaire dans un petit canal à houle (IMFT, Toulouse); l'étude de la dynamique et de la propagation des oscillations des niveaux d'eau dans un grand canal à houle (HYDRALAB, Barcelone), partiellement recouvert d'un fond sableux incliné, avec mesures de niveaux d'eau en pleine eau et sous le sable, et mesures du fond sableux (érosion/dépôts). Pour les études théoriques, nous avons développés des solutions analytiques linéarisées. Un exemple de problème traité analytiquement est: l'équation linéarisée de Dupuit-Boussinesq (D-B) transitoire à surface libre, en hypothèse d'écoulements plans et vidange/remplissage instantané : oscillations forcées, transmission et dissipation d'ondes à travers une boite à sable rectangulaire. Nous avons aussi développé une solution de l'équation faiblement non linéaire de Dupuit- Boussinesq (D-B) pour étudier le problème d'imbibition avec variation abrupte du niveau d'eau amont (suivi temporel du front de saturation). Nous avons pu étudier les différents types de problèmes transitoires liés aux expériences citées plus haut par simulation numérique. En particulier, nous avons simulé des écoulements partiellement saturés et insaturés, en coupe verticale, à l'aide d'un code de calcul (BIGFLOW 3D) qui résoud l'équation de Richards généralisée en régime transitoire. Nous avons ainsi étudié numériquement en régime non saturé, l'expérience d'imbibition dans un sable initialement sec à frontières verticales (IMFT sandbox), puis l'expérience de propagation d'ondes dans le grand canal à houle de Barcelone (laboratoire HYDRALAB) comportant une plage de sable inclinée, avec un couplage complètement intégré entre les zones micro-poreuse (sable) et “macro-poreuse” (pleine eau). Pour analyser les résultats de cette dernière expérience et les comparer aux simulations, nous avons utilisé plusieurs méthodes de traitement et d'analyse des signaux : analyse de Fourier (spectres de fréquences) ; ondelettes discrètes multi-résolution (Daubechies) ; analyses corrélatoires simple et croisée. Ces méthodes sont combinées avec des méthodes de préfiltrage pour estimer dérives et résidus (moyennes mobiles ; ondelettes multi-résolution). Cette analyse des signaux a permis de comprendre et quantifier la propagation à travers une plage de sable. Au total, les différentes approches de modélisation mis en oeuvre, associé à des procédures de calage en situation de couplage transitoire non linéaire ont permis de reproduire globalement les phénomènes de propagation de teneur en eau et de niveau d'eau dans les différentes configurations étudiées
This thesis aims at investigating experimentally, analytically and numerically, the consequences of hydrodynamic variations and oscillations with high temporal variability in partially saturated porous media. The problems investigated in this work involve “free surfaces” both outside and inside the porous media, the free surface being defined as the “atmospheric” water pressure isosurface (Pwater = Patm). The laboratory experiments studied in this work are, respectively: Lateral imbibition in a dry sand box with significant capillary effects; Transmission of oscillations of the free surface through a vertical sand box placed in a small wave canal (IMFT, Toulouse); Dynamics of free surface oscillations and wave propagation in a large wave canal (HYDRALAB, Barcelona), partially covered with sand, with measurements of both open water and groundwater levels, and of sand topography (erosion / deposition). For theoretical studies, we have developed linearized analytical solutions. Here is a sample problem that was treated analytically in this work: The linearized equation of Dupuit-Boussinesq (DB) for transient free surface flow, assuming horizontal flow and instantaneous wetting/drainage of the unsaturated zone: forced oscillations, wave transmission and dissipation through a rectangular sandbox. We also developed a weakly nonlinear solution of the Dupuit-Boussinesq equation to study the sudden imbibition (temporal monitoring of the wetting front). We have studied the different types of transient flow problems related to the experiments cited above by numerical simulation. In particular, we have simulated unsaturated or partially saturated transient flows in vertical cross-section, using a computer code (BIGFLOW 3D) which solves a generalized version of Richards’ equation. Thus, using the Richards / BIGFLOW 3D model, we have studied numerically the experiment of unsaturated imbibition in a dry sand (IMFT sandbox), and then, with the same model, we have also studied the partially saturated wave propagation experiment in the large Barcelona wave canal (HYDRALAB laboratory), focusing on the sloping sandy beach, with coupling between the micro-porous zone (sand) and the “macro-porous” zone (open water). To interpret the results of the latter experiment and compare them to simulations, we use several methods of signal analyzis and signal processing, such as: Fourier analysis, discrete multi-resolution wavelets (Daubechies), auto and cross-correlation functions. These methods are combined with pre-filtering methods to estimate trends and residuals (moving averages; discrete wavelet analyses). This signal analyzis has allowed us to interpret and quantify water propagation phenomena through a sandy beach. To sum up, different modeling approaches, combined with model calibration procedures, were applied to transient nonlinear coupled flow problems. These approaches have allowed us to reproduce globally the water content distributions and water level propagation in the different configurations studied in this work
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FU-TUNG, CHANG, i 張富東. "The surface-waves propagating on a sloping beach". Thesis, 1999. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/81714112960837851078.

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碩士
國立中山大學
海洋環境及工程學系
87
By linearizing the problem of the surface-waves propagating on a gentle sloping beach in two dimension, this paper has developed by a suitable perturbation expansion in the bottom slope to any order and the analytical solution has been derived to third order . Furthermore, the Eulerian form is transformed to the Lagrangian form by making use of a transform function to describe the solution. The Lagrangian form can be computerized by the numerical quadrate procedure with a personal computer program of continence. This program can easily calculate the result for the diverse surface-waves propagating on the any gentle sloping beach. When the momentary serial data of the undulate waves was calculated, it could combine into the dynamic three-dimension graph of full-time evolution by the skills of the multimedia. Finally, performs a practical experiment to inspect the theoretical and numerical result and researches the agreements between the reality and the solution. Comparing the experimental data with the solutions for the different wave steepness of the deep water on the three kinds sloping beach (1/5,1/10,1/20), the wave height proportion value is between 0.892 to 1.177,the wavelength proportion value between 0.953 to 1.163 and the wave steepness proportion value between 0.901 to 1.087. Over 95% the experiment data and solutions, the errors between them are less than 10%. Hereinbefore, These evidences can prove out the theoretical solution and numerical result, which can suffice the reality.
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Hu, Chia-Sheng, i 胡嘉昇. "A Laboratory Study of the Sedimentation on a Sloping Beach". Thesis, 1994. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/46445796285755330856.

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碩士
淡江大學
水資源及環境工程所
82
The study is done with a rectangular section of water tank with the sizes of length、width and height is 30 m、0.8 m and 0.8 m, respectively.We make waves with a piston-type wave maker.Then we use different kinds of slopes、wave heights and wave periods pass through the channel with a sandy bed. During the waves pass by,it will change the bed of the channel.We consider situations among the different wave conditions and slopes to investigate the sedimentation on this sloping sandy beach. Finally,we also discuss the effects of smooth fixed-shape bed and rough fixed-shape bed on the wave run-up.We also compared and discussed the equations,which were taken by some researcher with the results of this study.
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HU, QIONG-WEN, i 胡瓊文. "A study of the sedimentation along the sloping sandy beach". Thesis, 1992. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/28589188774430597590.

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Chen, Mu-Shuang, i 陳木祥. "A Numerical Simulation of Profile Changes on a Sloping Sandy Beach". Thesis, 1995. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/11341386720627103526.

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碩士
淡江大學
水資源及環境工程所
83
This study is to develope a numerical simulation of the profile changes on sloping sandy beach due to on-offshore sediment transport under continuous wave actions. This research has discussed the topographic variation of beach, changes of sediment volume, and sediment transport rate with respect to the effects of wave characteristics and the beach slope. Wave run-up on sloping beach is simulated by the finite-amplitude shallow-water wave thoery. When the run-up reaches the maximum level, the back-wash is then simulated by the free-falling motion afterward. The concept of mass conservation is also considered. We have considered two forms of seaward boundary conditions, bore form and the small amplitude wave form. The sediment transport quantities are calculated by the Bagnold''s formula, and the local slope changes due to the sediment movement have been taken into consideration. The null point is assumed to be at the grid point next to the seaward boundary seawards. To simulate the continuous incident waves, the superposition method is adopted. Owing to the profile changes, this study considers three flow situations which are hydraulic jump, flow through humpy bed, and no flow condition. The results of back-wash simulated by the free-falling motion are fine. The outcomes of using the small amplitude wave form at the seaward boundary have better agreement compared with the experimental results. The effect of the original beach slope is another important factor to the beach profile changes.
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Lai, Jian-Wu, i 賴堅戊. "Experimental and numerical studies on wave propagation over coarse grained sloping beach". Thesis, 2009. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/80677107941479616571.

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博士
國立成功大學
水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
97
In this paper, the hydrodynamics and turbulence for wave propagating over coarse grained sloping beach is investigated using both experimental and numerical model. The coarse grained sloping beach was placed over a 1:5 inclined bottom with two layers of spherical balls. Measurements on temporal and spatial variations of physical quantities such as wave profiles, current fields and turbulence were conducted in the wave flume. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) and digital image process (DIP) techniques are employed to detect the flow field and free surface configuration at both inside and outside regions on the sloping bed. Eleven fields of views (FOVs) were integrated to explore the entire evolutions for waves propagating from the surf zone to the swash zone. In addition, a high resolution Charge Coupled Device (CCD) Camera was used to grasp the images of wave profile. Subsequent digital image processing (DIP) techniques consisting of the image enhancement, coordinate transformation, edge detection and sub-pixel concept for higher resolution were developed to resolve the image and achieve a complete water surface evolutions. In the experimental study, the PIV and DIP techniques provide a possibility for measuring a full scale temporal and spatial variation of the wave profiles and velocity field. Furthermore, the FLOW-3D modeling based on the Navier-Stokes equations was adopted for the simulation of waves traveling over the sloping bed. The porous body model and direct three-dimensional simulations were employed for the calculation of wave profile and velocity field. Numerical results were favorably compared with experiments. The compare results show that the direct three-dimensional simulations method provides accurate predictions in the all wave propagation regions. The wave and velocity profile are resolved more completed as well as in the not only from outer to the inner porous layer, but also in the surf zone and swash zone. Experimental results show that the process of the turbulence characteristics of the maximum turbulent kinetic energy, turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate and turbulence intensity take place in the region between the toe of breaker and surface of porous layer. Flow 3D modeling is implemented to compute wave transformation, flow velocity and turbulent. Their differences were compared for the cases of waves propagating over porous and impermeable bed. The results show that the breaker type is significantly influenced by the porous coarse grained bottom. A plunging breaker becomes a collapsing breaker due to the additional resistance and friction of discrete grains within the porous medium. The front of water bore is stopped at the breaking point and ceases to move forward. Therefore, no significant retuned flow occurs in the surf zone.
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Hsiao, Kuan-yu, i 蕭冠宇. "An Application of Nonlinear Evolution Equation for Mild-Slope Equation on Sloping Beach". Thesis, 2008. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/54808876107087829461.

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Streszczenie:
碩士
國立成功大學
水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
96
The evolution equation for mild-slope equation model is expended to second order in bottom slope to derive a nonlinear evolution equation of mild-slope equation. The nonlinear evolution equation of mild-slope equation model is used to simulate wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection, wave breaking and energy dissipation. In the condition of bottom slope on 1/10, 1/5 and 1/3, the proposed model can modify wave transformations under the sloping bottom by examining Yang’s (2004) theory and calculate the accurate results. The bottom slope on 1/40 and 1/10, proposed model calculate the accurate results for wave phase with Guza and Bowen’s (1976) theory.
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Części książek na temat "Sloping beach"

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Lehman, R. S., i H. Lewy. "Uniqueness of Water Waves on a Sloping Beach". W Hans Lewy Selecta, 158–83. Boston, MA: Birkhäuser Boston, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4612-2082-4_16.

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Roseau, Maurice. "Water waves over a sloping beach in a rotating frame". W Theoretical, Experimental, and Numerical Contributions to the Mechanics of Fluids and Solids, 584–611. Basel: Birkhäuser Basel, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-0348-9229-2_31.

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Li, Tiejun, i Pingwen Zhang. "Numerical Simulation of 3D Shallow Water Waves on Sloping Beach". W Recent Progress in Computational and Applied PDES, 259–68. Boston, MA: Springer US, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4615-0113-8_19.

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Sugimoto, N., i T. Kakutani. "Asymptotic Behavior of a Shallow-Water Soliton Reflected at a Sloping Beach". W Nonlinear Water Waves, 77–84. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1988. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_8.

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Rodin, Artem, Ira Didenkulova i Efim Pelinovsky. "Numerical Study for Run-Up of Breaking Waves of Different Polarities on a Sloping Beach". W Extreme Ocean Waves, 155–72. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-21575-4_9.

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Porsch, M. R. M. H., N. Kinalski, R. Goergen, A. Fiegenbaum, L. A. Rasia i A. C. Valdiero. "Mathematical Modeling and Prototype Development of a Pneumatically-Actuated Bench for Sloping Terrain Simulation". W Multibody Mechatronic Systems, 357–66. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-67567-1_34.

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Adam, John A. "Scattering of Surface Gravity Waves by Islands, Reefs, and Barriers". W Rays, Waves, and Scattering. Princeton University Press, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.23943/princeton/9780691148373.003.0017.

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This chapter focuses on the scattering of surface gravity waves by islands, reefs, and barriers. Surface gravity waves that propagate from the deep ocean to coastal regions may be strongly amplified by reflection, refraction, diffraction, and shoaling due to variation in water depth. Analytical solutions provide an attractive approach to studies on wave scattering, but they are obtainable for only special topographies and simple governing equations. The chapter considers long surface gravity waves (linear shallow water waves) such that the depth of the water is much greater than the vertical free surface displacement and the wavelength is much larger than the depth. The fluid equations are derived directly for the present context. The discussion covers trapped waves, the scattering or S-matrix, submerged circular islands, edge waves on a sloping beach, one-dimensional edge waves on a constant slope, and wave amplication by a sloping beach.
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Kânoğlu, Utku. "NONLINEAR EVOLUTION OF LONG WAVES OVER A SLOPING BEACH". W Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 237–41. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2008. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812790910_0008.

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Kawarada, H., i H. Suito. "Numerical simulation of spilled oil drifted on the sloping beach". W Computational Fluid and Solid Mechanics, 876–78. Elsevier, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-008043944-0/50792-7.

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SEO, S. N., i P. L. F. LIU. "NUMERICAL SOLUTION OF LANDSLIDE TSUNAMI PROPAGATION OVER A UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH". W Asian And Pacific Coasts 2011, 1567–74. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2011. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789814366489_0188.

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Streszczenia konferencji na temat "Sloping beach"

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Erwina, N., i S. R. Pudjaprasetya. "Reflection wave on sloping beach". W 4TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON MATHEMATICS AND NATURAL SCIENCES (ICMNS 2012): Science for Health, Food and Sustainable Energy. AIP Publishing LLC, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.4868841.

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Izumiya, Takashi, i Masahiko Isobe. "Breaking Criterion on Non-Uniformly Sloping Beach". W 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1987. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872626003.025.

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Yamamoto, Yoshimichi, Katsutoshi Tanimoto i Karunarathna G. Harshinie. "Run-up of Irregular Waves on Gently Sloping Beach". W 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784400890.052.

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Memos, Constantine D. "Experimental Results of Wave Transformation Across a Sloping Beach". W 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784400890.171.

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Yeh, Harry H., i A. Ghazali. "Nearshore Behavior of Bore on a Uniformly Sloping Beach". W 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1987. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872626003.066.

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Weir, Felicia M., Tom E. Baldock i Michael G. Hughes. "Berm Development and Lagoon Closure on a Gently Sloping Beach". W Fifth International Conference on Coastal Dynamics. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40855(214)12.

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Cho, Yong-Sik, Jong-In Lee i Jong-Kyu Lee. "Bragg Reflection of Shallow-Water Waves on a Sloping Beach". W 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784402429.075.

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Sammarco, Paolo, Emiliano Renzi i Matthieu Lecouvez. "Landslide Tsunamis Propagating Along a Semi-Plane Beach". W ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2009-79789.

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A forced three-dimension analytical model is developed to investigate the main characteristics of landslide tsunamis propagating on a semi-plane beach. The method of separation of variables and the Fourier transform are employed to obtain the solution in the form of an eigenfunction expansion. Parametric discussion and further comparison with the model of a uniformly sloping beach are finally made.
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Lubin, Pierre, Hubert Branger i Olivier Kimmoun. "LARGE EDDY SIMULATION OF REGULAR WAVES BREAKING OVER A SLOPING BEACH". W Proceedings of the 30th International Conference. World Scientific Publishing Company, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812709554_0021.

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Nakajima, Mitsuhiro, Masatoshi Yuhi, Majime Mase i Hajime Ishida. "Improved Boussinesq Model and its Application to Wave Transformations over Artificial Reef on Sloping Beach". W Coastal Structures 2003. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40733(147)69.

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