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Shan, Yu Fu, Gu Huang, Xiao Ming Qian i Li Min Tong. "Research on Stitch Slipping and Influencing Factors of Silk Garments". Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (styczeń 2011): 879–83. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.879.
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Due to the delicacy of the material, stitch slipping occurs easier in silk garments than in the garments of other materials. Stitch slipping often occurs in the positions which are often subjected to stress, such as shoulder seam, side seam, and sleeve seam of the silk garment. The reasons of the stitch slipping in silk garments both from silk material itself and the manufacturing process of silk garments were analyzed. Sewing needle, stitch density and seam allowance were main manufacturing factors that affecting the stitch slipping in silk garments. By making experiments with silk garments of satin fabric, the influencing level of these three manufacturing factors were analyzed, at the same time the valuable reference data was also put forward.
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Wu, Jing, Jing Wei Liu i Qing Jin Wang. "Research on Implications of Silk Garments". Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (styczeń 2011): 873–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.873.
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Silk is Chinese cultural legacy, and whether in ancient times or now, a very important role was played on the clothing stage. Through the history, silk reeling technology, fabric texture, printing and dyeing patterns and clothing styles of silk clothing may have been improved, but many implications have not been changed. Implication is a person's heart for an object out of the product taste. Times changes, implication remains. In the modern era consumer psychology were focused on, consumers’ implications for silk clothing were dived, so resonance is greatly caused by consumers. First the traditional and modern implications of silk were analyzed, and the key words were got. These terms have been used to describe the different means of silk clothing. Second 5 sample silk garment was researched by the way of interpreting drawings. Semantic differential method was used to score. Last two kinds of properties of silk garments’ implications were obtained through factor analysis. The original implications can be included by these two properties, and the representation has been clearly shown. In the future silk clothing design methods and research directions, these two properties can be used as the basis, the consumer market segments positioning and style design has been carried out. Reference was supplied for silk clothing design methods and research.
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Davidson, Hilary. "Reconstructing Jane Austen’s Silk Pelisse, 1812–1814". Costume 49, nr 2 (1.06.2015): 198–223. http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/0590887615z.00000000076.
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This article explores the physical qualities and historical contexts of the silk pelisse coat dated c. 1812–1814 associated with Jane Austen (1775–1817) through family provenance and now held by Hampshire County Museum Services and Archives. The author took an exact pattern of the pelisse (included), then made replica garments. The association with Jane Austen is considered using evidence from Austen’s letters about her tastes in colours, length of fabrics needed for clothing, and ownership of a silk pelisse. The silk’s oak-leaf pattern is interpreted as a British patriotic motif, especially during the period of Napoleonic conflicts. Questions and insights arising from the process of reproduction are discussed, and the pelisse is compared to other surviving garments, and to contemporary fashionable images. As evidence suggests the pelisse probably did belong to Austen, her physical characteristics that can be gleaned from the garment are compared with information about Austen’s appearance.
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Huang, Zhen Zhen, i Xiao Yun Wang. "Research on Silk Apparel Retail Marketing Development Strategy". Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (styczeń 2011): 900–905. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.900.
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As large marketing research data shown, silk clothing marketing share of china has been small. So far, there is still lack of a high-profile silk clothing brand in our country, which has great potential for developing. In this paper, silk apparel retail marketing development strategy were profoundly analyzed and studied. Firstly, silk garments’ marketing research data was analyzed. In order to expand silk clothing marketing comprehensively in the perspective of marketing channels and brand-building, the retail marketing strategy and mathematical statistics methods were used. At last it simulated the retail marketing development strategy in a small silk garments marketing sample in order to have a more intuitive view for the implementation of the strategy. Thereby, it can contribute to grasp silk apparel marketing, make full use of china’s rich silk resources and create silk brand power to make china silk flare brilliant in the world.
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Saraswathi, E., i J. Jeyakodi Moses. "Polyacrylic Acid and Chitosan Treatments on Silk Fabric for Protection Enhancements". International Research Journal of Pure and Applied Chemistry 24, nr 2 (27.03.2023): 19–34. http://dx.doi.org/10.9734/irjpac/2023/v24i2805.
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Silk is utilized as most valuable fibers based on the unique properties like shiny sheen, remarkable comfort performance and bio considerations. Silk materials possess high applications as a natural substrate in the textile/garment industry and as a bio component in the medical applications. As silk is fine, delicate and sensitive it needs more care to protect from the ill effects of insects, light and chemicals. Hence, in this work an attempt is carried out on silk fabric by treatment with polyacrylic acid and chitosan followed by dyeing using few natural dyes and one synthetic reactive dye and subsequently subjected for different tests towards physical properties, colorimetric and fastness properties, low stress mechanical properties, antimicrobial and uv protection properties, SEM and XRD studies. The results of these tests give very good improvement of the protection behavior on the silk fabric suitable for the garments and other end use products.
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Thomas, Kim S., Lucy E. Bradshaw, Tracey H. Sach, Fiona Cowdell, Jonathan M. Batchelor, Sandra Lawton, Eleanor F. Harrison i in. "Randomised controlled trial of silk therapeutic garments for the management of atopic eczema in children: the CLOTHES trial". Health Technology Assessment 21, nr 16 (kwiecień 2017): 1–260. http://dx.doi.org/10.3310/hta21160.
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BackgroundAtopic eczema (AE) is a chronic, itchy, inflammatory skin condition that affects the quality of life of children and their families. The role of specialist clothing in the management of AE is poorly understood.ObjectivesTo assess the effectiveness and cost-effectiveness of silk garments for the management of AE in children with moderate to severe disease.DesignParallel-group, observer-blind, randomised controlled trial of 6 months’ duration, followed by a 2-month observational period. A nested qualitative study evaluated the beliefs of trial participants, health-care professionals and health-care commissioners about the use of silk garments for AE.SettingSecondary care and the community in five UK centres.ParticipantsChildren aged 1–15 years with moderate or severe AE.InterventionsParticipants were randomised (1 : 1 using online randomisation) to standard care or standard care plus 100% silk garments made from antimicrobially protected knitted sericin-free silk [DermaSilkTM(AlPreTec Srl, San Donà di Piave, Italy) or DreamSkinTM(DreamSkin Health Ltd, Hatfield, UK)]. Three sets of garments were supplied per participant, to be worn for up to 6 months (day and night). At 6 months the standard care group received the garments to use for the remaining 2-month observational period.Main outcome measuresPrimary outcome – AE severity using the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI) assessed at 2, 4 and 6 months, by nurses blinded to treatment allocation. EASI scores were log-transformed for analysis. Secondary outcomes – patient-reported eczema symptoms (Patient Oriented Eczema Measure); global assessment of severity (Investigator Global Assessment); quality of life of the child (Atopic Dermatitis Quality of Life, Child Health Utility – 9 Dimensions), family (Dermatitis Family Impact Questionnaire) and main carer (EuroQoL-5 Dimensions-3 Levels); use of standard eczema treatments (e.g. emollients, topical corticosteroids); and cost-effectiveness. The acceptability and durability of the clothing, and adherence to wearing the garments, were assessed by parental/carer self-report. Safety outcomes – number of skin infections and hospitalisations for AE.ResultsA total of 300 children were randomised (26 November 2013 to 5 May 2015): 42% female, 79% white, mean age 5 years. The primary analysis included 282 out of 300 (94%) children (n = 141 in each group). Garments were worn for at least 50% of the time by 82% of participants. Geometric mean EASI scores at baseline, 2, 4 and 6 months were 8.4, 6.6, 6.0, 5.4 for standard care and 9.2, 6.4, 5.8, 5.4 for silk clothing, respectively. There was no evidence of difference between the groups in EASI score averaged over all follow-up visits adjusted for baseline EASI score, age and centre (ratio of geometric means 0.95, 95% confidence interval 0.85 to 1.07;p = 0.43). This confidence interval is equivalent to a difference of –1.5 to 0.5 in the original EASI scale units. Skin infections occurred in 39 out of 141 (28%) and 36 out of 142 (25%) participants for standard care and silk clothing groups, respectively. The incremental cost per QALY of silk garments for children with moderate to severe eczema was £56,811 from a NHS perspective in the base case. Sensitivity analyses supported the finding that silk garments do not appear to be cost-effective within currently accepted thresholds.LimitationsKnowledge of treatment allocation may have affected behaviour and outcome reporting for some of the patient-reported outcomes.ConclusionsThe addition of silk garments to standard AE care is unlikely to improve AE severity, or to be cost-effective compared with standard care alone, for children with moderate or severe AE. This trial adds to the evidence base to guide clinical decision-making.Future workNon-pharmacological interventions for the management of AE remain a research priority among patients.Trial registrationCurrent Controlled Trials ISRCTN77261365.FundingThis project was funded by the National Institute for Health Research (NIHR) Health Technology Assessment programme and will be published in full inHealth Technology Assessment; Vol. 21, No. 16. See the NIHR Journals Library website for further project information.
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Wang, Bing Zi, i Ying Chen. "The Application of Digital Printing Technology in Modern Silk Garments". Advanced Materials Research 796 (wrzesień 2013): 577–83. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.796.577.
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Mainly from the perspectives of technology, design and application, this paper studied how to take use of digital printing technology to make silk garments feature more modern aesthetic value, and expand the application space of silk fabrics in modern clothing. Through the investigation of the whole production process currently, this paper gave a summary of the status quo and existing problems of digital positioning printing on cutting pieces, and put forward an optimization of the overall design and production process. A simulating practical production process in CAD software is applied to verify the optimized process. It is considered that the rise of digital printing technology pulls the direction of fashion design toward the Eastern from the Western system, the former one focusing on decorative patterns and the later on perspective and structure. The aim of this paper is to promote new thinking and develop silk fabrics and silk clothing, which have more modern aesthetic value, through the investigation of the application of digital printing technology in modern silk clothing, so as to make silk the symbol of Chinese civilization recover its vitality.
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Panagiotakopulu, E., P. C. Buckland, P. M. Day, C. Doumas, A. Sarpaki i P. Skidmore. "A lepidopterous cocoon from Thera and evidence for silk in the Aegean Bronze Age". Antiquity 71, nr 272 (czerwiec 1997): 420–29. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0003598x00085021.
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What were the fine garments vividly painted in the Minoan frescoes made of? Fine cotton (cotton from Egypt is still prized today)? Or the yet finer fabric of silk? And if silk, where did the stuff, or knowledge of cultivating the silk-worms, come from? A cocoon from Santorini offers new evidence.
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Yan, Yu Xiu, Li Xin Li i Zi Min Jin. "Analysis on Quality Management of Silk Clothing Production". Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (styczeń 2011): 943–46. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.943.
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In order to improve the quality of silk garments, on the basis of the result of previous studies, and through the practice in the silk companies, the root of the problems was analyzed by SPSS. In view of the unique nature of silk fabrics, the improvement measures of quality management were raised, which is of significant practical value and social value.
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Zhang, Guang Xian, Fu Tang Chen, Jun Zhou, Feng Xiu Zhang, Hui Zheng i Da Yang Wu. "Preparation and Property of Bamboo Silk Fabric". Advanced Materials Research 627 (grudzień 2012): 53–56. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.627.53.
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In this paper, natural bamboo yarn and silkworm silk, bamboo pulp yarn and silkworm silk were twisted together to make bamboo silk yarn. And then they were weaved to bamboo silk fabric. The properties of bamboo silk fabrics were studied too. The results showed that bamboo pulp silk fabric was very soft, suitable to make underwear and shirt etc. Natural bamboo silk fabric was relative stiff, suitable to make outwear. All the bamboo silk fabric had wonderful anti statistic property; their cockle elasticity property was equal to silk; the whiteness, moisture regain and moisture permeability were very good. These showed the bamboo silk fabric not only had the properties of bamboo fibers, but also had the properties of pure silk fabric. Then they were suitable to be fabric of garments.
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Huang, Boling. "Silk in the Muslim Sartorial Code: The Making, Collaboration, and Separation of the Ulama and the Political Elites ca. 7th-10th Century". Communications in Humanities Research 2, nr 1 (28.02.2023): 200–206. http://dx.doi.org/10.54254/2753-7064/2/2022581.
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Lavish silk textiles have drawn considerable attention of historians that have been dedicated to studying the Islamic sartorial code. How changes in the style of silk garments were able to illustrate political development in the Islamic empire, however, was a topic that academic scholars have rarely touched upon. This essay is dedicated to examining how the establishment and development of the Sunni Muslim silk sartorial code is as much the making of the Ulama as the making of the political elites.
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Huang, Boling. "Silk in the Muslim Sartorial Code: The Making, Collaboration, and Separation of the Ulama and the Political Elites ca. 7th-10th Century". Communications in Humanities Research 2, nr 1 (28.02.2023): 200–206. http://dx.doi.org/10.54254/2753-7064/2/20220581.
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Lavish silk textiles have drawn considerable attention of historians that have been dedicated to studying the Islamic sartorial code. How changes in the style of silk garments were able to illustrate political development in the Islamic empire, however, was a topic that academic scholars have rarely touched upon. This essay is dedicated to examining how the establishment and development of the Sunni Muslim silk sartorial code is as much the making of the Ulama as the making of the political elites.
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Douny, Laurence. "Silk-embroidered garments as transformative processes: layering, inscribing and displaying Hausa material identities". Journal of Material Culture 16, nr 4 (grudzień 2011): 401–15. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1359183511424197.
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This article explores some aspects of Hausa wild silk embroidered gowns known as riga, interpreting these famous and prestigious attires in the light of techniques and transformative processes. The author thus highlights implicit forms of knowledge underlying material practices about, first, the wearing and layering of highly decorated gowns and, second, the process of creating silk-embroidered motifs (on the outside gown) and inked patterns (on the inside gown) that stand as the objectification and expression of charismatic power through self-display. The author proposes that Hausa wild silk-embroidered gowns constitute a material identity of power in that they materialize individual as well as group social status, prestige, fame and wealth. The empirical materials derive from ongoing fieldwork in northern Nigeria on the production and use of wild silk, a particular substance/material to which mystic properties are attributed and which plays an important role in the empowerment of riga.
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Sathish Kumar, T., M. Ramesh Kumar i Balakrshnan Senthil Kumar. "Evaluation of Moisture Management Properties of Plated Interlock, Mini Flat Back Rib and Flat Back Rib Structures". Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 29, nr 2(146) (30.04.2021): 66–74. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0014.6084.
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Moisture management is a very fundamental criterion for any type of fabric. Hence, in this study three different knits viz plated interlock, mini flat back rib and flat back rib fabric structures with 100% eri silk (top), 100% bamboo (bottom) and 100% tencel (bottom) with the combination of two different yarn counts were used. The yield was tested for moisture management properties. It was identified that the bi-layer eri silk (14.3 tex) combined with bamboo (14.8 tex) and tencel (14.8 tex) plated interlock, mini flat back rib and flat back rib knit structure fabrics were excellent. Due to the high level of comfort and breathable nature, eri silk with bamboo and tencel fabrics are recommended for performance based garments.
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Renne, Elisha P., i Abdulkarim Umar DanAsabe. "Royal Garments of the Emir of Kano Muhammadu Sanusi II, 2014–2020". Textile Museum Journal 48, nr 1 (2021): 72–91. http://dx.doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2021.a932827.
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Abstract: Successive Kano emirs have worn resplendent garments to convey their regal political authority among their subjects. The former Emir of Kano, Sarkin Muhammadu Sanusi II, of Kano State, Nigeria, was renowned for his striking royal dress, which often included a long jacket-like robe covered by a large hooded burnous, trousers, ostrich feather shoes, and a turban with a veil-like cloth, which could cover his face. These expensive garments and accessories were made with a range of materials, which included handwoven cotton and raw silk material made in Nigeria, as well as imported textiles from Egypt, Morocco, Saudi Arabia, Switzerland, and China that were sewn and embroidered in Nigeria, Egypt, and Morocco. The garments of late or former emirs are not retained in the palace but rather are distributed among family members, thus continuing connections between emirs—past and present—and their relations. While similar styles and materials have been maintained to some extent, certain aspects of these royal garments have changed over the past century, which reflect the specific preferences of the reigning emir. This study is based on a selection of royal garments worn by the Emir of Kano, Muhammadu Sanusi II, along with discussions with palace officials, embroiderers, and tailors. Photographs of burnouses, robes, and turbans worn by Sarkin Muhammadu Sanusi II as well as by earlier emirs illustrate how these garments were worn at public events, which have contributed to the continuing political authority of traditional rulers in the modern political era in northern Nigeria.
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Jui, Kaniz Fatima, Saifur Rahman, Md Akter Faruk Fuad, Umme Munmun Ashrafi Flora, Md Hassan Shafiul Alam Shanto, Md Hasan Sofiur Rahman i Homaira Siddika. "A Systematic Review on Prospects and Barriers of Silk in Bangladesh". Asian Journal of Education and Social Studies 48, nr 2 (8.08.2023): 1–16. http://dx.doi.org/10.9734/ajess/2023/v48i21048.
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Sericulture is an ancient agricultural practice and silk production has economic as well as historical importance in Bangladesh. The study has reviewed the prospects and barriers of silk compiling the production to industry level. In the last five years, silk production has decreased from 46 to 41 metric tons. As the total demand for silk in Bangladesh is 300 metric tons, it created import pressure, accounting for an average of 393.73 metric tons. Bangladesh produced 1099 kg silk yarn which contributed to the 4.43million USD export return and made the emergence of light more than in previous years. This paper shows that 75% of the total rural population lived in rural areas, and more than 60% of the total population directly or indirectly depended on agricultural activities where majority of employees were women, accounting for 60%. Bangladesh has achieved the honor of becoming the second largest exporter of Readymade Garments (RMG) which employed 4.4 million people and exported 81.16 million dollars, contributing about 18% of the total GDP. But the condition stagnated regarding the proper timing of raw materials procurement, temperature fluctuation, the Covid-19 outbreak, and others. Bangladesh Sericulture Development Board, Bangladesh Sericulture Research and Training Institute, and other non-government organizations support are required for its further growth.
GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT
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Munroe, Nazanin Hedayat. "Yusuf and Zulaikha in Sufi Poetry and Safavid Silks". Textile Museum Journal 50, nr 1 (2023): 104–17. http://dx.doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2023.a932853.
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Abstract: The romance of Yusuf and Zulaikha was codified as a Sufi allegory in Persian poetry by Abd al-Rahmān Jāmī in 1483. Included in both the Old Testament and the Qur’an, the legend of beautiful Yusuf (Joseph) and his temptress Zulaikha are illustrated in manuscripts of Jāmī’s Haft Awrang , a septet of epic poetry. Zulaikha, a would-be adulteress who is smitten with the young enslaved Yusuf, is mocked by the noblewomen of society until they too meet him in person and lose their senses. This recognizable event in the narrative is illustrated on both embroidered and woven textiles in the sixteenth century, at the height of Safavid luxury figural silk production. In the embroided textile, Yusuf wears a coat with a design of seated youths wearing taj Safavi , the emblem of Twelver Shi’a belief—a rare example of a figural silk textile referencing itself. In double cloth, the couple is rendered in late sixteenth-century Safavid dress surrounded by poetic verse. By dressing in figural silks depicting Yusuf and Zulaikha, the wearer indicated familiarity with Jāmī’s narrative, setting the poetry in motion by embodying the characters. What motivated elite consumers to display this scene on garments in the sixteenth century, and what does the story of Yusuf and Zulaikha indicate about the beliefs of its wearer? Through a comparison of textile techniques, paintings of the scene, passages from Jāmī’s poetry, and primary sources from the Safavid period, this research note examines the mystic messages communicated through these precious silk textiles.
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Höfer, Dirk. "A Real-Life Based Evaluation of the Effectiveness of Antibacterial Fabrics in Treating Atopic Dermatitis". Dermatology Research and Practice 2018 (19.11.2018): 1–8. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2018/7043438.
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Background. Antibacterial clothes are classified as a complementary treatment in line with antisepsis, although meta-studies are unable to find significant improvements of eczemas. Methods. The antibacterial effectiveness of conventional AD clothes was compared across each other by (i) standard suspension tests for the appraisal of antibacterial products and (ii) a real-life setup of affected AD skin using S. aureus colonised artificial skin, to assess if functional clothes are effective under practical wear conditions. Additionally, the interaction of the fibre types with a moisturising cream was evaluated during a real wearing situation and after domestic laundry. Results. In the real-life setup simulating dry skin microenvironment, all samples failed to reduce S. aureus. Silver and zinc-fabrics showed a slight activity only under unrealistic moist conditions. When using standard suspension tests, samples differed considerably in their antibacterial effectiveness, where silver and zinc endowed fibres outperformed AEGIS endowed silk fabrics. Garments absorbed the cream dependent on the particular fibre types. Furthermore, domestic laundry was unable to completely remove the cream. Conclusion. Considerable differences in the antibacterial effectiveness of conventional AD clothes were revealed. Under practical (dry) wear conditions, garments were unable to modify skin colonization with S. aureus, although effectiveness can be triggered by wetting the garments. Remnants of moisturising cream remain on the fibres after laundry.
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Mikhaila, Ninya. "Borne Out with Whalebone: A Late Sixteenth-Century Farthingale Sleeve". Costume 58, nr 1 (marzec 2024): 2–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0284.
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An extant farthingale sleeve support and a silk satin sleeve to wear over it form part of a collection of garments still owned by the Willoughby family to which it originally belonged in the 1590s or early 1600s. This paper provides an insight into its history as part of the Willoughby women’s wardrobe and a technical description of its materials, manufacture and current form. Its construction matches contemporary documentary evidence for farthingale sleeves which were assumed to form part of elite dress. Evidence presented here suggests that the fashion moved rapidly through society and became a feature of ordinary women’s dress by the early seventeenth century.
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Petroviciu, Irina, Emanuela Cernea, Iolanda Turcu, Silvana Vasilca i Ina Vanden Berghe. "Natural Dyes in Embroideries of Byzantine Tradition, the Collection of Embroidered Aëres and Epitaphioi in the National Museum of Art of Romania". Heritage 7, nr 6 (11.06.2024): 3248–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/heritage7060153.
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The medieval textiles collection of the National Museum of Art of Romania (MNAR) has been in place since 1865 and nowadays preserves about 1000 medieval and pre-modern weavings and embroideries. These extremely valuable objects, dated between the 14th and the 19th centuries, are mainly religious embroidered garments and veils with special significance in the Byzantine li-turgy. Ecclesiastical embroideries of Byzantine tradition are characterized by a complex technique: metallic threads with a silk core, metallic wires and coloured silk threads are couched over padding on layers of silk and cellulosic supports so as to create relief through light reflection. The silk sup-ports and the sewing threads are coloured, mainly in red, blue, green and yellow hues, and analytical investigations of the dyes used in embroideries preserved in the MNAR, in the Putna and Sucevița Monasteries, have been released in previous studies by the corresponding author. The present work continues the approach with research into dyes in about 25 aëres and epitaphioi from the MNAR collection. Considering their privileged function in the liturgical ritual, these luxurious pieces embroidered with silver, gilded silver or coloured silk threads and decorated with pearls, sequins or semi-precious stones are the most faithful description of the stylistic and technological evolution of the art of post-Byzantine embroidery in the Romanian provinces. The data resulting from the present research will improve the knowledge regarding this topic. Dye analysis was performed by liquid chromatography with diode array detection, while fibres were characterized by infrared spectroscopy (with attenuated total reflectance) and optical microscopy. The biological sources identified—carminic acid-based dyes, redwood, dyer’s broom, weld, indigo-based dyes––will be discussed in correspondence with their use in the embroidery technique: support, lining and embroidery threads, together with other sources previously reported on Byzantine embroideries in Romanian collections, and in similar objects preserved at Holy Mount Athos.
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Gafurova, N. T., N. I. Hikmatov i D. F. Barakaeva. "Influence of raw properties on product quality". Современные инновации, системы и технологии - Modern Innovations, Systems and Technologies 2, nr 2 (22.06.2022): 0169–77. http://dx.doi.org/10.47813/2782-2818-2022-2-2-0169-0177.
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The purpose of this article is to study methods for determining and predicting the drapability of a fabric. Drapability is one of the main aesthetic properties of fabric that must be taken into account when designing fabrics with desired properties, obtaining garments of the desired shape and ensuring their efficient production. An analysis of the literature revealed a number of results of experimental methods for the formation of drapery and the need to take into account new information about the characteristic methods for the formation of folds and gathers. The indicators of production of current volumes of silk and mixed fabrics chosen for clothing are analyzed, and the results of experimental studies are presented.
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Maier, Angelica J. "“Is Cleopatra Black?”: Examining Whiteness and the American New Woman". Humanities 10, nr 2 (9.04.2021): 68. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/h10020068.
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In the 1920s and 1930s, conceptions of the “New Woman” and Egyptomania shaped American culture. Employing methods of critical race art history and material culture studies, I focus on a 1925 Callot Soeurs dress and silk pajamas (c. 1920–1929), taking into consideration both the semiotic qualities of Egyptian motifs as they circulated in early twentieth century American visual culture as well as the sensuous material aspects of the garments. Through primary sources like cosmetic advertisements, fashion magazines, and costume manuals, I contextualize the figure of Cleopatra as a symbol of white beauty and power in this period. Weighing both visual and material aspects, I argue that the repeated act of wearing these garments by white-presenting women placed them in a performative valence, where the wearer ironically became a white woman through her appropriation of Cleopatra and Egyptian motifs. Further, these motifs conferred modernity, cosmopolitanism, class status and an acceptable sexuality upon the wearer. As such, I address how material objects shape subjectivity, simultaneously reflecting and producing racialized and gendered discourses. By focusing on white womanhood, I draw upon critical studies of whiteness in order to disrupt its invisible normative status. This essay traces its operational logic and aids in dismantling the pervasive power of white supremacy that continues to circulate today.
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David, Alison Matthews. "ELEGANT AMAZONS: VICTORIAN RIDING HABITS AND THE FASHIONABLE HORSEWOMAN". Victorian Literature and Culture 30, nr 1 (marzec 2002): 179–210. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s1060150302301098.
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There is a delightful feeling when you are well mounted, that those who are casting admiring glances at your horse, will find your dress and “get-up” just as perfect in their way.— Mrs. Alice Hayes, The Horsewoman, 1893At no time are the beauties of the female form divine displayed with such witching grace, the faultless flowing lines so attractively posed, the tout ensemble so thoroughly patrician. But if there be one blot in the fair picture, the charm at once vanishes.— E. Kerr, Riding for Ladies, 1895THE VICTORIAN SIDESADDLE RIDING HABIT was a paradoxical garment. It was a fashionable anti-fashion statement, masculine and feminine, practical yet alluring. While on horseback, the fair equestrian shunned the lace, frills, and furbelows worn by her pedestrian sisters. Even when the bell-like silhouette produced by the crinoline skirt was at its greatest width, the essence of the horsewoman’s garb was a lean, understated, and almost masculine simplicity. She represented the epitome of cultivated elegance and cut a fine figure in her tailored habit and silk top hat. Clad in her severe attire, the horsewoman became a center of visual attention in Victorian England. Though she graced fewer pages than the traditional fashion plate, she put her stamp on paintings, photographs, and caricatures. Preceded by showy, colorful riding costumes and superseded by breeches, caught between the demands of Victorian femininity and rising feminism, the riding habit and the women who wore it were typical of and unique to their era. The modern horsewoman represents a turning point in the history of female dress. She adopted the first sports costume specifically designed for women and opened the way for the invention of other athletic garments like the bicycling suit. The riding habit’s combination of style and practicality launched the fashion for more gender-neutral, utilitarian garments and heralded the advent of the twentieth-century working woman’s uniform: the tailored suit.
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Schmitz, Norma. "Muschelseide – Goldene Gewänder aus dem Meer". Archiv Natur- und Landeskunde Mecklenburg-Vorpommern 58 (19.11.2021): 71–76. http://dx.doi.org/10.30819/anlk.58.07.
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Zu den tierischen Rohstoffen, die der Mensch vor Erfindung der synthetischen Fasern nutzte, gehört eine besonders feine und seltene Faser zur Herstellung von Kleidungsstücken, die Byssus- oder Muschelseide. Hierbei handelt es sich um die Haftfäden der Edlen Steckmuschel Pinna nobilis Linnaeus, 1758 aus dem Mittelmeer, die bei erwachsenen Exemplaren bis 20 cm lang werden können. Schon in der Antike wurden aus diesen Fasern kostbare goldglänzende Gewänder in feinster mühevoller Handarbeit gefertigt. Nach einer Blütezeit während des Römischen Reichs wurde sie in den folgenden Jahrhunderten bis in das 20. Jh. zu Kleingegenständen, wie Handschuhe, Strümpfe oder Stickereien, verarbeitet. Die Zentren der Muschelseidenverarbeitung lagen im Golf von Tarent und auf Sardinien. Aufgrund von Überfischung kamen die Bestände fast zum Erlöschen und 1992 wurde die Art unter Schutz gestellt. Heute wird die Verarbeitung der Muschelseide nur noch zur Bewahrung eines alten Kunsthandwerks betrieben. In der Zoologischen Sammlung Rostock werden zwei Paar Handschuhe aus Muschelseide aus der 2. Hälfte des 18. Jh. aufbewahrt. Shell silk – golden robes from the sea Abstract: A particularly fine and rare fiber belongs to the animal raw materials that man used to make clothes, before the invention of synthetic fibers. It is byssus- or shell silk. This is the adhesive threads of the noble pen shell Pinna nobilis Linnaeus, 1758 from the Mediterranean Sea, which can grow up to 20 cm long in adult specimens. Even in ancient times, these fibers were used to make precious shiny gold garments with the finest of painstaking craftsmanship. After a heyday during the Roman Empire, it was processed in the following centuries until the 20th century to small items such as gloves, stockings or embroidery. The centers of shell silk processing were in the Gulf of Taranto and in Sardinia. Due to overfishing, the stocks almost became extinct and were placed under protection in 1992. Today, the processing of mussel silk is only carried out to preserve an old craft. Two pairs of gloves made of mussel silk from the 2nd half of the 18th century are kept in the Rostock Zoological Collection.
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Wang, Yunli, i Chunlei Wang. "Conservation of a Fur Court Robe of the Qing Dynasty". Studies in Engineering and Technology 2, nr 1 (20.07.2015): 86. http://dx.doi.org/10.11114/set.v2i1.957.
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Although fur artifacts are not numerous, they are relatively common in northern China’s museums. This article focuses on the conservation of a man’s court robe from the Palace Museum, lined with golden yellow silk kesi and decorated with golden dragons in colorful clouds and fur trim. It illustrates the treatment process for fur garments, including fur type identification, original sewing methodology documentation, replacement fur piece preparation and degraded fur repair. The fur class cultural relics appraisal method makes we completed a research project1. It based on fur fiber micro detection in the field of zoology2 and fiber detection of textile field3. Fur repair methods described in the article isfusion of the traditional fur production and restoration. This article would provide a detailed reference for future similar fur artifact repair work.
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Born, Robert. "The Ottoman Tributaries Transylvania, Wallachia and Moldavia: Reflections on the Mobility of Objects and Networks of Actors". DIYÂR 2, nr 1 (2021): 27–58. http://dx.doi.org/10.5771/2625-9842-2021-1-27.
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This paper explores the different channels of transfer of luxury commodities (rugs, silk fabrics) from Persia and the Ottoman Empire to the three principalities of Moldavia, Wallachia and Transylvania, located at the north-western fringes of the Transottomanica. In the introductory section, it examines the function of the luxury products and their integration into the representational culture of the fifteenth century at the Hungarian royal court, in the Transylvanian cities, as well as in the two Danubian Principalities. The successive integration of Transylvania, Moldavia and Wallachia into the Ottoman sphere of power led to different forms of acceptance and transformation of the imported objects. Although there are parallels between the three principalities with regard to the bestowal of the honorary garments during the investiture rituals by the sultan and his officials, there are differences with regard to the further destiny of these valuable garments. While in Transylvania these were often treasured or reworked into representative costumes given their high material value, in Moldavia and in Wallachia a considerable number of kaftans were transferred into the sacral realm. Hereby older traditions were adapted to the new circumstances. The rulers of the two Danubian Principalities now acted as donors alongside high dignitaries within the framework of supra-regional networks. In addition to their native territories, their activities encompassed the major Orthodox sanctuaries in Greece and the Holy Land. Furthermore, the Danubian Principalities were an important hub for transfers to the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Tsardom of Russia.
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Ekeyeva, Emma V., i Nikolay V. Ekeyev. "Особенности национальной одежды алтайцев". Oriental Studies 14, nr 1 (5.04.2021): 103–14. http://dx.doi.org/10.22162/2619-0990-2021-53-1-103-114.
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Introduction. With reference to works by Russian ethnographers and collected field materials, the paper presents the first insight into specific features of Altaian traditional clothes and changes the latter undergo in the modern period. Goals. The work primarily seeks to reveal transformations of Altaian national garments in the late 20th – early 21st centuries. Materials. The study examines data from field expeditions to Ust-Kansky, Shebalinsky and other districts of the Altai Republic in 2017-2019. The research data collection methods included those of questionnaires and interviews among local communities of the mentioned districts of the region. Results. The paper highlights various aspects of men’s and women’s clothes represented mainly by outer garments, such as sheepskin coats, e.g., nekey ton (a sheepskin coat a with long thick fur), akar ton (a coat sheepskin with short thick fur), kyptu ton (a coat with fabric-trimmed upper elements), tortok ton (a short sheepskin coat), and also sleeveless jackets (kögÿspek) and national gowns (chekpen). The work describes caps worn both by men and women (tÿlkÿ bychkak börÿk, talbañ börÿk, kish börÿk, bolchok börÿk), shoes made of fur (skin) from animals’ lower legs (bychkak ödÿk) or leather ones (katu/ köm ödÿk, charyk ödÿk, shiri ödÿk) usually decorated with upright pointed toes. Special attention is paid to women’s wedding and festal clothes, namely: dresses with wide sleeves and long cuffs that were to completely cover hands, the former decorated with buttons, beads, and ornaments to be worn under a full-length silk sleeveless jacket. The research explains differences between the classical and contemporary conventionalized chegedek full-length sleeveless jackets worn by women over a special dress during wedding ceremonies. Chegedek communicates a symbolic message that a girl acquires the new status of a married woman. Some attention is given to men’s undergarments, such as regular shirts (chamcha) mostly worn untucked with woolen trousers (shtan). Conclusions. The Altaian clothes have underwent certain changes but some centuries-old traditions survive till nowadays, e.g., women’s dresses are distinguished by special sleeves (ushtuktar) and ‘wings’ (kanattar). However, it is noteworthy that the tradition of selecting colors for garments with due regard of age and sex is lost, and layout of decorative elements has also changed. The loss of ethnic features in national clothes results from the wide use of commercial cloths and services of tailor shops.
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Strohmaier, Patricia. "Mobil, taktil und nah am Körper – Über den Gebrauch von Beuteln". Das Mittelalter 25, nr 2 (10.11.2020): 271–93. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/mial-2020-0038.
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AbstractMedieval bags or pouches have survived mainly in church treasuries, preserved in reliquaries and altars. Usually made of silk, they vary considerably in form, colour, motif and size. Although most surviving pouches have been interpreted as containers for relics that were safely stored away in church treasuries, the form of a sewn bag was not mandatory for wrapping a relic to be placed inside a reliquary or an altar. Nor were all bags intended for ecclesiastical use, as is evident from the number of alms bags preserved in church treasuries. Through an analysis of textual sources and surviving items this article explores alternative uses of these highly tactile textiles that served as containers for valued personal belongings, either as an amulet while traveling, as a container of an individual’s relic donation to a church or even by means of theft. Worn close to the body, around the waist on a belt, around the neck and above or underneath garments, the softness and lightness of bags offered high comfort. Ornaments such as fringes, tassels or ribbons with beads invited wearers to touch it and play with it, thus deepening their engagement with the bag and its content.
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Maskiell, Michelle. "Embroidering the Past: Phulkari Textiles and Gendered Work as “Tradition” and “Heritage” in Colonial and Contemporary Punjab". Journal of Asian Studies 58, nr 2 (maj 1999): 361–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/2659401.
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While the men worked in the fields in the wine-like [winter] air, the women sat in the afternoon sun spinning and embroidering while they sang together, before starting to cook for their men. They embroidered phulkaris….” (Tandon 1968, 65). These stereotypes of feminine and masculine work in Prakash Tandon's memory book Punjabi Century illustrate dominant literary representations of economic production in Punjab, a province of the British Raj from the mid-nineteenth century until it was partitioned between independent India and Pakistan in 1947 (see fig. 1). Many Punjabi women used phulkari (literally, “flower-work”) embroidery to decorate their daily garments and handmade gifts in the nineteenth century. Illustrations only partially convey the vibrant visual impact of phulkaris, and even color photographs fail to capture fully the sheen of the silk thread. The embroidery ranges from striking geometric medallions in reds, shocking pinks, and maroons, through almost monochromatic golden tapestry-like, fabric-covering designs, to narrative embroideries depicting people and objects of rural Punjab. Women stitched phulkaris generally on handwoven cotton cloth (khadi), and phulkaris shared linked construction techniques, a dominant embroidery stitch (the darning stitch), and several distinctive motifs (Frater 1993, 71–74; Yacopino 1977, 42–45; Askari and Crill 1997, 95–101).
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Mushtaq, Hina, Shabir Ahmad Ganai, Arshid Jehangir, Bashir Ahmad Ganai i Rubiya Dar. "Molecular and functional characterization of protease from psychrotrophic Bacillus sp. HM49 in North-western Himalaya". PLOS ONE 18, nr 3 (30.03.2023): e0283677. http://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0283677.
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In this work, a psychrotrophic bacteria producing cold-active protease, was obtained from Dachigam National Park, an ecologically significant habitat in Western Himalayas owing to its varied endemic and endangered flora and fauna. This isolate was identified as Bacillus sp. HM49 via phenotypic, Gram staining, bio-chemical and 16S rRNA gene identification. Isolate HM49 when tested for proteolytic activity revealed prominent hydrolytic zone with the most production at 20 °C and pH, 8.0 post 72 h incubation. This enzyme was purified, enhancing its specific activity to 61.15 U/mg and its characterization studies revealed it to be a cold-alkaline protease being active in a wide pH (6.0–12) and temperature (5–40 °C) range. Amplification of CAASPR gene of HM49 was performed, followed by enzyme-substrate docking studies and MMGBSA providing details about its type, molecular weight validation as well as functional applications. The purified protease of HM49 was tested for laundry applications and the enzyme was found to be compatible with majority of the detergents tested. Its potential as an eco-friendly detergent additive was further validated by wash performance test as it effectively removed recalcitrant blood stains at a low temperature of 20 °C that could be beneficial for fine garments like silk which preferably need cold washing.
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Thomas, Kim S., Lucy E. Bradshaw, Tracey H. Sach, Jonathan M. Batchelor, Sandra Lawton, Eleanor F. Harrison, Rachel H. Haines i in. "Silk garments plus standard care compared with standard care for treating eczema in children: A randomised, controlled, observer-blind, pragmatic trial (CLOTHES Trial)". PLOS Medicine 14, nr 4 (11.04.2017): e1002280. http://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pmed.1002280.
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Polosmak, N. V. "CLOTHES FROM THE XIONGNU WARDROBE (Based on Finds from the Noin-Ula Burial Mounds)". Archaeology and Early History of Ukraine 36, nr 3 (10.06.2020): 431–44. http://dx.doi.org/10.37445/adiu.2020.03.31.
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Clothing has always served as a major ethnic marker by uniting people of the same community. Written and archaeological sources tell us a lot about the Xiongnu culture, but the appearance of these formidable rulers of the steppe remains a mystery, and we are still on our way to deciphering it.
Archaeological finds for reconstructing the Xiongnu costume come from the Noin-Ula burial mounds (Mongolia), the only site attributed to this people where objects from organic materials have survived. Many items of clothing were discovered as early as in the 1920s by Pyotr Kozlov’s expedition. New data were obtained from three large Noin-Ula mounds as a result of studies organized and directed by the author of this article at the beginning of this century.
The main conclusions that we have arrived at today are as follows:
The costume worn by the Xiongnu nobility was eclectic and consisted of items of different origin. Those were mainly robes made of expensive silk, which were manufactured at Chinese (Han) workshops and presented by the emperor as gifts to the chanyu, who then passed them, as was the custom, to his confidants.
Clothes for people of high rank were sewn from an imported woolen textile of the topmost quality. The clothes from this textile — caftans, trousers, leggings-were created directly in the Steppe, possibly by craftswomen at the chanyu’s base camp.
We do not know the design of the woolen caftans, but the small fragments that were found in Noin-Ula mounds 20 and 22 give us a clue of how bright and decorative they were: these caftans must have been completely covered with embroidery and trimmed with sable fur. A variety of silk textiles were also used in creating these clothing items. It is known that the Xiongnu received from the imperial court as gifts (disguised tribute) plenty of silks from the best workshops of China. These unique textiles were then passed to local craftswomen, who skillfully combined them with woolen textiles and fur. They created truly magnificent garments, as is evident from the surviving fragments of a caftan from Noin-Ula mound 20. In our opinion, it was these caftans that represented the costume of the Xiongnu nobility; i. e., the eclecticism of this costume manifested itself not only in a combination of items of different origin and culture but also in the fact that the clothing items that were created directly in the Steppe were made not only from local materials-felts, coarse textiles, birch bark — but also from imported woolen and silk textiles and embroideries. A good example of these clothes is the leggings from Noin-Ula mound 22. They were sewn by a local craftswoman from a magnificent woolen textile produced in the Mediterranean workshops and embroidered with silk by a Chinese craftswoman, of whom there were many at the chanyu’s base camp. Felt shoes sewn to the leggings were covered with Chinese silk, and their soles were carved from birch bark. This one item brings together three civilizations: Mediterranean, China, and Eurasian Steppe.
Even if we possessed actual clothing items from the burials, we would not be able to confidently reconstruct the Xiongnu costume because we could not be sure that the available items represented the entire wardrobe. Furthermore, we would not know exactly how these clothes were worn. The experience of studying the undisturbed Pazyryk mounds showed that only in those cases where we see all the details of clothes directly on human body, we get a correct idea of how related to one another and how they were worn.
The recent finds from the Noin-Ula mounds added a lot of new details to the description of the costume of the Xiongnu nobility. However, the costume itself, by which we mean not only a set of clothes from the headdress to the shoes but also the color scheme, hairstyle, jewelry, cosmetics, accessories, and manner of wearing, still cannot be reconstructed in its entirety. As of now, we can describe in detail only individual components of this costume. However, I believe that over time we will «assemble» the entire wardrobe and reconstruct the appearance of the splendid riders of the Mongolian steppes.
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Lech, Tomasz. "The impact of high-density polyethylene materials on microbiological purity in the process of storing and preserving textiles". Textile Research Journal 87, nr 17 (17.08.2016): 2076–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517516663159.
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Textiles made of natural fibers, both contemporary and historical, are at constant risk of degradation caused by, among others, microbial enzymatic activity. Fungi, bacteria, or actinomycetes are capable of producing proteolytic and cellulolytic enzymes, enabling microbial growth on textiles and leading to their decay. Ensuring proper storage conditions, including the usage of protective materials, allows long-term preservation of historical textiles in a good condition. These studies involved a broad microbiological analysis in order to verify whether high-density polyethylene (HDPE) materials can protect historical textiles during their storage. The results demonstrate interesting differences in microbial counts between washed textiles stored without HDPE covers and those stored in such covers; the latter presented considerably higher counts of microorganisms. However, when textiles had previously been sterilized, HDPE covers helped maintain appropriate microbiological purity. A considerable portion of historical textile collections, particularly exceptional silk liturgical vestments or burial garments, are kept by church institutions and stored in sacristies, treasuries, or other church rooms. The specificity of these places, both cultural and related to the age of the buildings themselves, makes them exceptional environments for storing textiles. To date, these places have rarely been researched, particularly in microbiological aspects. The analysis recounted below encompasses qualitative and quantitative assessment of fungi and bacteria present in the air of the treasury of the Wawel Royal Cathedral in Krakow, Poland, as well as the analysis of their destructive potential.
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Niftiyev, İbrahim. "De-industrialization in Azerbaijan's Textile Subsectors: Canonical Correlation Analysis and the Dutch Disease Hypothesis". Journal of Applied And Theoretical Social Sciences 5, nr 3 (28.09.2023): 270–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.37241/jatss.2023.93.
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Since 2014, academic studies have increasingly underscored the potential adverse consequences associated with Azerbaijan's imbalanced and dependent economic structure. It is widely recognized that countries relying heavily on the export of primary commodities are ill-prepared for situations characterized by sharp declines in international commodity prices. Hence, the objective of this paper is to examine the Azerbaijani economy amidst two parallel developments: the growth of oil-related macroeconomic indicators and the contraction of non-oil subsectoral industrial production. To achieve this, the analytical framework of the Dutch disease, a widely preferred theory to study commodity exporters, and canonical correlation analysis (CCA) were employed in the period 1995 to 2021. The findings reveal statistically significant canonical correlations between certain subsectors of the textile industry (such as ginned cotton, cotton fabric, silk fabric, bed linen of cotton, and cotton yarn) and the Dutch disease variables (e.g., oil rent, real effective exchange rate), while other subsectors (including carpets, crocheted legwear and garments, outerwear, underwear, and footwear) do not exhibit similar patterns. These results show that non-consumer subsectors of the textile subsectors, especially the cotton sector, are more vulnerable to the effects of Dutch disease than consumer subsectors of the textile subsectors. In addition, the oil rent variable is a persistent channel that shows a negative correlation with the latent variables of the textile subsectors. These results prompt policymakers and researchers to reassess the role of large extractive industries in a small, open economy like Azerbaijan and to formulate economic policies that safeguard and foster specific subsectors.
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Yang, Su Rui. "Application of Traditional Chinese Auspicious Patterns in the Design of Modern Silk Garment". Advanced Materials Research 796 (wrzesień 2013): 532–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.796.532.
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The traditional Chinese auspicious patterns and silk garment both have characteristics of the traditional Chinese cultures, and always have intimate relationship with each other. In the design of silk garment in many dynasties in China, auspicious patterns were very extensively applied. In the design of modern silk garment, the agile application of auspicious patterns not only can transmit characteristic Chinese ethos, but also can enhance international competence due to its unique Chinese element. Through in-depth study of cultural connotation of the traditional auspicious patterns, this article analyzes application of these patterns in the design of modern silk garment from their constitution, composition, arts and crafts, respectively, with a hope for investigating the inheritance and development of silk garment art, so that providing reference for innovative design of silk garment.
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Zhao, Mei Hua, i Xiao Ping Zhang. "Study on how to Control the Affect by Ironing Shrinking to the Size of Silk Garment in International Silk Garment Business". Key Engineering Materials 480-481 (czerwiec 2011): 1255–59. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/kem.480-481.1255.
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As regarding silk garment, size is a very important factor in quality control in international trade. Garment size is affected by many factors of which ironing shrinkage is one of the most important. This assay discusses how to control the affect by ironing shrinking to the size of silk garment in international silk garment business.
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Wang, Qing Jin, Jing Wei Liu i Jing Wu. "Research on High Grade Sense of Silk Garment Based on Kansei Engineering". Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (styczeń 2011): 859–64. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.859.
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Silk was the most ancient export commodity, and it’s the evidence and pride of Chinese civilization. Silk is of noble temperament and deep culture; it is loved by old and young man at home and abroad. The high price of silk depends on its technic, therefore, in the development of silk garment, it is essential to consider high grade sense of silk garment. Silk has a certain high grade sense on texture and sheen, but it still needs to be combined with apparel color and pattern, which can make silk garment possess high grade sense. The paper aims at apparel color and pattern, extracts the key factors of high grade sense through the investigation of the comprehension and cognition of people. The paper is on the basis of the theory of Kansei Engineering. It extracts emotional evaluation factors of garment high grade sense by the way of interview and questionnaire survey, and then the author analyses the survey data by the statistic software of SPSS17.0. Finally the author concludes the different kinds of high grade sense which are understood by people. As a result, they can lead the development of silk garment.
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Deng, Hong Tao. "Optimized Design of Modern Silk Clothing Based on Material Matches". Advanced Materials Research 627 (grudzień 2012): 577–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.627.577.
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The main shortages of traditional design for silk garment are: stylized design concept; simple and plane model; lack of diversified skin texture; and the color limit to the inherent quality of silk fabric, not fit for diversified and personalized aesthetic need of modern people. This paper breaks through traditional fabric design, and proposes optimization design methods of modern silk garment. The methods include matching different silk fabrics with different textures, or matching silk fabrics with other fabrics such as leather, fur, jean and knits.
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Wang, Xuan, i Xiao Peng Duan. "Geometry in Ethnic Garment Construction". Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (styczeń 2011): 884–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.884.
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Ethnic garment construction was investigated from the perspective of geometry. Basic characteristics of ethnic garment construction of different regions and nationalities were analyzed and summarized. Features of silk and the decisive role playing in the forming of geometrical garment structure of Chinese ethnic costumes which have great impact on the style features of oriental ethnic costumes were mainly discussed. The aesthetic features and philosophic ideas silk endows Chinese traditional garment were also discussed. By exploring the wisdom and skills of ethnic garment construction design, the geometric characteristics of ethnic garment construction, the basic rule of changes in ethnic garment construction and the essence of the construction structure variation were revealed. Inspiration from the techniques of ethnic garment construction design will be valuable for us to explore innovative ideas for today’s fashion design.
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Sun, Mei Qin, i Da Li Ma. "Ponders on the Silk Garment: Cheongsam Phenomenon". Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (styczeń 2011): 545–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.545.
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Silk is a symbol of Chinese traditional garment culture, it represents the characteristics and spirits of Chinese civilization; Cheongsam is an integrated epitomization of modern Chinese civilization and western culture, and is an acknowledged quintessence of traditional Chinese garment. No matter cheongsam chooses the silk or silk chooses the cheongsam, it is the excellent match of unique material and classical style that accomplishes the elegant appearance and cultural connotations. However, in reality, cheongsam culture has been deducted but failed to come to any agreements, and presents awkward cheongsam phenomenon. This paper ascribed and explained cheongsam phenomenon, discussed the real situation and culture passing-down in terms of modern garment culture.
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Cao, Aijuan, Lanlan Yan i Yiling Zhang. "A Study on the Public Aesthetic Perception of Silk Fabrics of Garment -Based on Research Data from Hangzhou, China". Asian Social Science 14, nr 2 (29.01.2018): 69. http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v14n2p69.
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Silk owns a number of excellent qualities, while the perception status of the public on property regarding to silk fabrics of garment is unclear. In this paper, four indicators based on aesthetics as breakthrough point such as gloss, drapability, wrinkle resistance and pilling resistance, were used to analyze the status of the public aesthetic perception of silk fabrics through questionnaire investigation and statistical analysis based on surveys conducted from the public of Hangzhou, China as core objects. The result shows that the public owns high perception on the gloss and drapability of silk fabrics of garment and factors such as gender, personal preference, purchase and use experience, whether the silk industry practitioners are of a significant impact on perception. The higher the monthly income or education level, the higher the perception. Age and life span in Hangzhou are of no significant impact.
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Guan, Jinping, Hong Lu i Yan Chen. "Apparel Performance of Flame Retardant Silk Fabrics". Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 8, nr 4 (grudzień 2013): 155892501300800. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/155892501300800411.
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Many countries enacted flame retardant legislation for apparel such as evening dress, and pajamas. But durable and formaldehyde free flame retardant finishing for silk is necessary and challenging. In this paper, three kinds of silk fabrics with different weaving styles for apparel uses were treated with a vinyl phosphorus monomer dimethyl-2-(methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphate (DMMEP) by a graft copolymerization technique using potassium persulfate as an initiator. The treated silk fabrics can be self-extinguished after being ignited with a candle like fire, can pass the vertical flammability test, and. show some decrease in permeability. Fabric bending, shear, compression, and drape were tested so that possible problems in garment manufacturing could be predicted, because these properties not only affect the appearance of silk products but also influence the garment making process. The sewing properties of the treated silk fabrics are also discussed.
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Cao, Aijuan, Qi Zhu, Yiling Zhang i Lanlan Yan. "Research on the Public Cognitive Differences of Healthcare Functions of Silk Fabrics for Garment: Based on Research Data from Hangzhou, China". Asian Social Science 14, nr 3 (26.02.2018): 63. http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v14n3p63.
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Silk fabrics own a number of excellent qualities, while the public cognition status of on property regarding silk fabrics of the garment is unclear. In this paper, three indicators based on healthcare function as breakthrough point such as anti-mite, anti-bacteria and anti-allergy, healthy and environmentally friendly function, andskin-care function, were used to analyze the status of the public cognition on healthcare function of silk fabrics through questionnaire investigation and statistical analysis based on surveys conducted from the public of Hangzhou, China as core respondents. The result shows that the public owns high cognition on the healthy and environmentally friendly function of silk fabrics of the garment. Factors such as personal preference, purchase and use experience, whether the silk industry practitioners are of a significant impact on healthcare cognition, while gender, age, and years of residence in Hangzhou are of no significant impact.
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Wake, E. V., J. Batchelor, S. Lawton, K. S. Thomas, E. F. Harrison, F. C. Cowdell, Hywel Williams i in. "The views of children and young people on the use of silk garments for the treatment of eczema: a nested qualitative study within the CLOTH ing for the relief of Eczema Symptoms ( CLOTHES ) randomized controlled trial". British Journal of Dermatology 178, nr 1 (styczeń 2018): 183–90. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/bjd.15909.
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Xin, Wang. "Study on the Suzhou Embroidery and Innovative Design of Modern Silk Scarf". Advanced Materials Research 796 (wrzesień 2013): 588–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.796.588.
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Silk scarf, which is an important accessory for a woman, is far behind in the design level compared with the garment nowadays. The indisputable fact is that the consumer group of scarf is gradually reducing, and the most style of current silk scarf can not cohere with womens modern dress anymore. This paper discusses the innovative design of silk scarf on subjects, art form etc. by using traditional element of Suzhou embroidery. By this way, modern silk scarf can cater to consumers demand and play an important role in fashion.
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Makhunton, Suphalak, Songkoon Chantachon i Phanat Phothibat. "Integration of the Local Wisdom of Natural-Dyed Mud-Treated Silk in Thailand for Creative Economy". Advanced Materials Research 860-863 (grudzień 2013): 2695–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.860-863.2695.
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The present research compared minerals contained in mud from different sites. These were analyzed by atomic absorption spectroscopy: AAS. It found the highest quantity is iron, zinc in second, lead in third, copper in fourth. The study results show that silk threads with and without mud treatment were not so different in color durability towards light, color durability towards scrubbing, and color durability towards washing. We also found that crease recovery capacity of mud-treated silk cloth was better than that of silk cloth without mud treatment. Hence, the mud treated silk is more suitable for the development of Thai garment.
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Bian, Xiangyang, i Aijuan Cao. "Research on the Public Comfort Cognition of Silk Fabrics for Garment---Base on the Survey Data from Hangzhou, China". Asian Social Science 14, nr 8 (27.07.2018): 107. http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v14n8p107.
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As the traditional products with local characteristics in Hangzhou, silk has numerous excellent qualities. However, public cognition degree about the performance of silk fabrics remains unclear. In this paper, taking comfort as the entry point, the thesis retrieves seven indicators related to temperature comfort and contact comfort to develop silk fabrics comfort measurement scale based on traditional evaluation methods, and public comfort cognition of silk fabrics for garment is investigated through questionnaire. According to the results, the public have higher awareness to skin comfort and softness of silk fabrics, while have lower awareness to moisture absorption feature, heat conductivity and warmth retention property of silk fabrics; industry and experience in using exert a significant effect on their recognition, while gender, education background, occupation, and time length living in Hangzhou have no significant effect on cognition.
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Jeyakodi Moses, J., Mariappan A i Vellingiri K. "A Study on the Production of a Silk Saree mixed with Lyocell and Polyester". Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 19, nr 4 (1.11.2015): 57–64. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-19-04-2015-b006.
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Silk and lyocell textiles are categorized as protein and cellulose polymer products of natural fibers. They have their unique uses in the textile, apparel and garment fields. Polyester (PET) is one of the most important synthetic textiles with very good resistance towards chemical and microbial attacks. The presence of PET in mixed silk fabric provides added value. In this study, a saree is developed with silk as the warp and lyocell and PET as the weft. The product is compared with a 100% silk saree with respect to tensile strength, elongation, drapeability, stiffness and antimicrobial activity. The developed saree gives good results that are close to that of the 100% silk saree, and the cost of the developed saree is less than half of that of 100% silk.
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Li, Xin Ge, Xue Qin Wang, Jia Lin Li i Chen Zheng. "Innovation of Creative Lady Wear Based on Origami and Jacquard". Advanced Materials Research 1048 (październik 2014): 268–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.1048.268.
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This paper presents a research of women clothing style, pattern design, and fabric by developing origami culture and double faced jacquard weaving. Four kinds of clothing styles are researched by folding fabric according some origami concept. Based on the developed folded garment structures, some positioned patterns are studied for modern advanced fashion design purposes. In the technology aspect, jacquard technology is used in this study. Jacquard technology uses double stitching structure which face and back patterns are not the same. The face fabric is colorful with pure silk while the back fabric is composite of twill and eight weft satin pattern with silk and cashmere yarn. The final example presents a combination creation of garment and fabric. The method and design of this type of creation requires a high integration of aesthetic and technical aspects, therefore a high added value would be achieved.
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Khan, Tasnif ullah, i Attaullah Umar Zai. "رنگوں کےذریعے امراض کا علاج: ایک تحقیقی مطالعہ". Al-Duhaa 2, nr 01 (10.07.2021): 71–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.51665/al-duhaa.002.01.0042.
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Allah Almighty has made the life of the world in the Universe perishable. Therefore, he has also made the lives of human beings, animals, birds and insects living on the earth eternal. For the end of their lives, Allah Almighty has made different causes according to his Sunnah. Among these causes of the decline of worldly life are also diseases. On the other hand Allah Almighty has also created means to take life to the appointed time. Among these causes are medicines which can be used to prolong the life of this world till the appointed time. Therefore, along with diseases, Allah Almighty has also revealed to human beings various methods of treatment for diseases. One of these methods is the treatment of colors. Different colors have different effects on human life. The proof of this is stated in the Holy Quran “The Said! Ask Allah to tell us what color it is. Musa Said! My Allah says: let its color be deep yellow, that it may please the beholders.”
Since man is naturally endowed with beauty, Allah Almighty has adorned the universe with colors. This blessing is also mentioned in various places in the Holy Qur’an, as the Almighty says: “Do they not look at the sky above them, how we have made it and adorned it, and there is no crack in it?” “On top of these Paradises will be green garments of cherubim and silk rings and they will be adorned with silver bracelets”.
The importance of colors has been mentioned in the Holy Quran. Keeping in view the importance of colors, Azimi Sahib has described the treatment of colors as a natural means of treatment. He has written “Treatment” “Color therapy” and “Theory of Color and Lights”. According to him, due to the excess and deficiency of colors, the human body suffers from various diseases. And if the deficiency and excess of the desired color in the body is corrected, the disease can be got rid of. Sunlight and rays help to eliminate abuse.
Describing the mental properties of red, he has called it the color of courage and love. When things go awry and expectations are dashed, red dominates the mental center. The red color in the center of the red is an indication of abnormal emotional attachment or emotional trauma. People in the red color are in moderation, they help others and use all their abilities in their favorite hobbies.