Articoli di riviste sul tema "Maison Martin Margiela (Paris)"

Today's society is in a trend toward external beauty rather than internal beauty due to rapid changes. As of the 21st century, with the development of high-tech technology, humans are familiar with the Internet and SNS, and the world is sharing with each other and making various exchanges. Among them, with this development, modern people are increasingly interested in the fashion and beauty industries, increasing individual values and accelerating the trend cycle, creating new trends according to social and cultural trends. In particular, it is an era in which consumers are centered from Generation Y to Generation Z, which were born and grown together in the digital era, and are highly influential and led. Entering Generation Z, he is leading the era by directly expressing his inner desire and beauty differentiated from free and future-oriented others that deviate from the existing framework of dissolutionism. With this development of the times, new elements are added to the existing disintegrationism, which can be new to the new disintegrationism created by reflecting the needs of consumers. Maison Margiela, a fashion brand that represented the disintegrationism of the past, embraces various cultures and presents creative and interesting designs to the public. Nail art design has an identity as a diversified visual element, and modern people need a new design that fits the trend in a new aspect. Therefore, this study aims to produce autonomous, individualized, and diversified gel nail art designs as works to satisfy consumers' needs by examining the trend and aesthetic value of the times as a new deconstructionist characteristic of fashion brand Maison Margiela. As a method of this study, the characteristics of neodisintegrationism in Maison Margiela fashion were analyzed through previous studies, books, and the Internet, and based on studies by Kim (2021), Lee (2018), Wu (2021), and Park & Kim (2020) were combined with the characteristics of recreational gel nail art. The materials for producing the work were gel polish, gel brush, glitter, wire, and full tip No. 3. The conclusion of this paper is based on the design of Maison Martin Margiela, a representative fashion brand of neo-disintegrationism for diverse and creative designs, and the gel nail art design is presented by classifying the characteristics of neo-disintegrationism into playfulness, diversity, and reinvention recombination. The research results produced by the work are as follows. First, with Yoo Hee-sung's design, Work 1 first produced a sense of freedom as a design element from a design suppressed by a design that deviates from the existing framework of nail art. Work 2 is a design using space, designed for pure purpose, not intentional expression, and produced works in a fun and playful atmosphere. Second, with the diversity design, Work 3 expressed color expression and see-through flowers, and produced works by expressing gender boundaries from a neutral perspective. Work 4 was produced with a design that expresses an open and intriguing inner desire by expressing a part of it in three dimensions. Third, with the reinvention and recombination design, Work 5 was transformed and applied using space in three dimensions to produce works by expressing them in a auditory design. Work 6 was recombined by applying the existing gradation technique and produced a work with a design that gives a familiar image rather than unfamiliarity by using curves to create an integrated harmony of play and diversity. Therefore, this study was produced as a gel nail art work by applying the new deconstructionist Maison Margiela's fashion elements and sublimated into art works, and individual personality and original design showed trends and usability in nail industrial sites, and it is hoped that gel nail design research will be continuously conducted.

Resumo: O presente artigo visa mostrar algumas reflexões existentes no pensamento do filósofo francês Michel Foucault concernente à ontologia do presente, às relações de poder e à heterotopia. A atualidade analisada por Foucault está vinculada ao aspecto vital de cada época, nas formas de vivência dos indivíduos, principalmente, aqueles considerados pela normatividade e normalidade das relações de poder como sendo marginais, anormais, resíduos, infames. Assim, Foucault aproxima-se do trabalho desenvolvido por Sebastião Salgado ao relatar e denunciar os homens infames, habitantes dos espaços heterótopos.Palavras-chave: Michel Foucault. Ontologia do presente. Heterotopia. Homens infames. Sebastião Salgado. Abstract: This paper aims to show some reflections about the thoughts of the French philosopher Michel Foucault concerning the ontology of the present, power relations and heterotopia. actuality analyzed by Foucault is linked to the vital aspect of each age, in the ways of individuals living, especially, those considered by the power relations of normativity and normality as marginal, abnormal, waste, infamous. Therefore, Foucault approach his work to the work developed by Sebastião Salgado reporting and denouncing the infamous men, inhabitants of heterotopical spaces.Keywords: Michel Foucault. Ontology of the present. Heterotopia. Infamous men. Sebastião Salgado. REFERÊNCIASBAUMAN, Zygmunt; LYON, David. A vigilância líquida como pós-pan-óptico. In: ______. Vigilância líquida. Tradução de Carlos Alberto Medeiros. Rio de Janeiro: Zahar, 2013, p. 55-74. CASTRO, Edgardo. Vocabulário Foucault: um percurso pelos seus temas, conceitos e autores. Tradução de Ingrid Müller. Belo Horizonte: Autêntica Editora, 2009.DELEUZE, Gilles. Michel Foucault: rachar as coisas, rachar as palavras. In: Conversações (1972-1990). 3. ed. Tradução de Peter Pál Perlbart. São Paulo : 34, 2013.FOUCAULT, Michel. As palavras e as coisas: uma arqueologia das ciências humanas (1966). 8. ed. Tradução de Salma Tannus Muchail. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 1999._______. Des espaces autres (1984). In : _______. Dits et ecrits II (1976-1988). Paris: Gallimard, 2001b, p. 1571-1581. _______. Em defesa da sociedade. Curso no Collège de France (1975-1976). Tradução de Maria Ermantina Galvão. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 1997. (Coleção: tópicos)._______. La vie des hommes infâmes (1977). In: _______. Dits et ecrits II (1976-1988). Paris: Gallimard, 2001b, p. 237-253._______. Les anormaux (1975). In: _______. Dits et ecrits I (1954-1975). Paris: Gallimard, 2001a, p. 1690-1696.FOUCAULT, Michel. Microfísica do poder. 22 ed. Rio de Janeiro, Graal, 2006a._______. O poder psiquiátrico. São Paulo, Martins Fontes, 2006b._______. Poder e saber (1977). In: MOTTA, Manoel Barros da (Org.). Estratégia, poder-saber. Tradução de Vera Lúcia Avellar Ribeiro. Rio de Janeiro: Forense Universitária, 2003, p. 223-240. (Col. Ditos & Escritos IV).FURTADO, Rafael Nogueira. A atualidade como questão: ontologia do presente em Michel Foucault. In: Natureza humana, vol.17, n.1, São Paulo (2015), p. 144-156. Disponível em: <http://pepsic.bvsalud.org/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1517-24302015000100007> (acessado em: 16.08.2016).JAQUET, Gabriela. É preciso questionar o presente: Foucault, o diagnóstico, a Aufklärung, Anais da XIII Semana Acadêmica do PPG em Filosofia da PUCRS, Porto Alegre, RS (2014). Disponível em: <http://ebooks.pucrs.br/edipucrs/anais/semanadefilosofia/XIII/9.pdf> (acessado em: 16.08.2016).REVEL, Judith. Foucault, une pensée du discontinu. Paris: Mille et une nuits, 2010.WENDERS, Wim. O sal da terra [documentário]. Autoria: Juliano Ribeiro Salgado, Wim Wenders, David Rosier. Produção: Decia Films. Co-produção: Amazonas Images, Fondazione Solares dele Arti com apoio de La région Île-de-France, Les Amis de la Maison Européenne de la Photographie (2014), 1 DVD (115 min).ZENDRON, Rute Coelho. O fotógrafo, Dossiê migrações, Esboços. In: Revista do programa de pós-graduação em História da UFSC, v.10, n.10, Florianópolis (2002), p. 83-95. Disponível em: <https://periodicos.ufsc.br/index.php/esbocos/article/view/389/9854> (acessado em: 16.08.2016).

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RÉSUMÉLe principal objectif de cet article est d’encourager une approche plus large, supraconfessionnelle, du mariage et de la famille à l’époque moderne. La conjugalité a été “désacralisée” par les réformateurs protestants du 16e siècle. Martin Luther, parmi d’autres, a refusé le statut de sacrement au mariage, tout en valorisant celui-ci comme une arme contre le péché. En réaction, le concile de Trente a réaffirmé avec force que le mariage est bien un des sept sacrements chrétiens. Mais, promouvant la supériorité du célibat, l’Église catholique n’a jamais beaucoup insisté sur les vertus de la vie et de la piété familiales avant le 19e siècle. En parallèle, les historiens décèlent des signes de “sacralisation” de la famille protestante à partir du 16e siècle. Leurs conclusions doivent être relativisées à la lumière de recherches plus récentes et plus critiques, centrées sur les rapports et les représentations de genre. Elles peuvent néanmoins inspirer une étude élargie et comparative, inexistante dans l’historiographie traditionnelle, des réalités et des perceptions de la famille chrétienne au-delà des frontières confessionnelles.MOTS-CLÉ: Époque Moderne, mariage, famille, protestantisme, Concile de TrenteABSTRACTThe main purpose of this paper is to encourage a broader supra-confessional approach to the history of marriage and the family in the Early Modern era. Wedlock was “desacralized” by the Protestant reformers of the 16th century. Martin Luther, among others, denied the sacramental status of marriage but valued it as a weapon against sin. In reaction, the Council of Trent reinforced marriage as one of the seven sacraments. But the Catholic Church, which promoted the superiority of celibacy, did little to defend the virtues of family life and piety before the 19th century. In parallel, historians have identified signs of a “sacralization” of the Protestant family since the 16th century. 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Il me regarde. Parfois il murmure des mots que je ne comprends pas. Et puis il s’assoit sur le lit, et il rabat les couvertures. Il dit mon nom tout bas, tu dormais, mon amour ? Là il n’y a plus d’espoir, je sais que ça commence. J’ouvre les yeux sur le noir de la chambre qui peu à peu s’éclaire et dévoile le visage de papa. Il n’y a pas de mots pour ce qu’il me fait dans la chambre. Voix coupée, je ne pourrai jamais le dire. À moi seule je le dis pour ne pas me perdre de vue. Lori Saint-Martin (1999). Mon père, la nuit (p. 7). L’instant même. Nous voilà au troisième solstice d’hiver pour la revue HYBRIDA. J’ai eu la chance de passer mon anniversaire à Montréal, de recevoir l’automne aux couleurs changeantes, de savourer l’énergie du jaune, ma couleur préférée, décliné à l’infini : citron, cadmium, moutarde, ocre, auréolin, indien, de Naples, de Sienne, de Cambodge… L’Association Internationale des Études Québécoises, incarnée dans la précieuse figure de Suzie Beaulieu, a contribué à la réussite de ce séjour d’un mois à l’Université de Montréal, accueilli par une personne magnifique et généreuse, écrivaine prestigieuse à juste titre, Catherine Mavrikakis, qui venait de publier son dernier roman Niagara (2022), ainsi que par son entourage académique et familial, son frère Nicolas Mavrikakis, perspicace critique d’art ; son conjoint, l’insigne professeur de littérature Terry Cochran, et leur fille Loulou, toujours le sourire aux lèvres et aux yeux… Le mois d’octobre est spécialement animé du point de vue culturel à Montréal ce qui m’a permis de participer à une intense vie culturelle : nouvelles publications, activités théâtrales, expositions artistiques, cycles organisés par la cinémathèque québécoise (dont la superbe rétrospective sur l’œuvre du canadien Bruce LaBruce)… Je me suis plu à visiter les intéressantes librairies montréalaises toujours en ébullition. J’ai eu la chance d’entrer en contact direct avec le monde éditorial québécois qui connaît certainement un nouvel âge d’or, des maisons d’édition d’une longue tradition comme Gallimard, dont l’ancien directeur Rolf Puls m’a parlé de tant d’anecdotes littéraires en nous régalant avec des huîtres et des oursins des mers du Nord, et dont l’actuelle directrice générale, Florence Noyer, m’a ouvert également les portes. Tout comme les éditions du Boréal où je suis passé plusieurs fois, reçu magnifiquement par Jean Bernier, avec qui j’ai passé des moments d’intense complicité où j’ai pu partager la passion pour Marie-Claire Blais, qu’il connaît dans le moindre détail, et le deuil à cause de la disparition douloureuse, cet intense mois d’octobre, du jeune écrivain Simon Roy, qui était venu à Valence présenter son premier roman Ma vie rouge Kubrick (2014) ; ainsi que celle de Lori Saint-Martin quelques jours plus tard. Il me reste à mentionner la maison d’édition Héliotrope. Un vrai bijou. J’ai eu le privilège de partager quelques conversations littéraires et humaines de haut niveau et une belle promenade du côté du Mont Royal, avec une halte dans la petite pâtisserie du quartier portugais pour prendre un vrai café, avec sa directrice, écrivaine elle-aussi, Olga Duhamel-Noyer, une âme sœur, qui dirige cette maison respirant sans aucun doute un air nouveau, fortement stimulant. Ma valise était donc bien pleine au retour à Valence et j’aurai de quoi lire dans les prochains mois. Tout cela m’a permis de rencontrer, parfois intensément, dans divers contextes, plusieurs écrivain·e·s, tous les âges confondus, dont je signalerai, par ordre alphabétique, Martine Audet, Arianne Bessette (écrivaine discrète et sensible avec qui j’ai connecté immédiatement), Lula Carballo (« ma Lula », mon double), David Clerson, Pierre-­André Doucet (charmant auteur et musicien acadien spécialement remarquable), Clara Dupuis-Morency, Benjamin Gagnon Chainey, Julien Guy-Béland (personne exceptionnelle, engagée, et écrivain percutant), Monique Proulx, que j’ai reçue à Valence et que j’apprécie énormément comme écrivaine et comme personne, avec qui j’ai partagé des croissants et de la confiture faite maison sur son balcon en regardant les arbres perdre leurs feuilles lorsqu’elle me dédicaçait son dernier roman Enlève la nuit (2022) ; et, bien entendu, Lori Saint-Martin. Je ne voudrais pas oublier le professeur de l’Université de Montréal Alex Noël, qui s’intéresse à la littérature québécoise récente et à la mémoire queer, et qui m’a fait découvrir le travail de l’artiste multidisciplinaire canadienne, originaire de l’île Maurice, Kama La Mackerel et le professeur espagnol de l’Université du Québec à Montréal Antonio Domínguez Leiva, écrivain lui-aussi, dont j’avais perdu la trace et avec qui je partage bien des intérêts littéraires autour du corps, de la monstruosité et du « panique ». Une dernière mention spéciale pour deux danseurs : Francis Paradis, personne instruite et empathique qui est restée tout le temps à mon écoute et m’a fait découvrir des lieux remarquables ; et, enfin, le danseur tunisien Achraf El Abed, en asile politique à Montréal à cause des persécutions LGBT dans son pays, n’ayant pas pu venir à Valence pour ces raisons lors du Colloque Queer Maghreb que nous avons organisé en juin 2022. Il a dansé pour nous en privé chez moi dans le quartier du Red Light de Montréal, pas loin de l’emblématique Café Cléopâtre, le jour de mon anniversaire, en compagnie de ma collègue et amie Adela Cortijo, qui était venue pour l’occasion. Je n’oublierai jamais ce moment magique. Merci à tous et à toutes pour avoir contribué à rendre ce séjour montréalais si spécial et si riche dans tous les sens. Comme je l’annonçais, nous avons perdu Lori Saint-Martin, excellente professeure, traductrice et écrivaine canadienne, ayant choisi le français comme langue d’asile et de refuge, d’identité réinventée, et surtout personne proche et généreuse, disparue dans la Seine, subitement. Des ombres spectrales ont envahi mon cœur et mes pensées à cause de ce destin trop funeste, trop tragique, trop romanesque, tellement j’ai envie de ne pas y croire… et, pourtant, Lori n’est plus là. Juste un dernier message sur WhatsApp quelques jours avant l’hécatombe : « Aquí todo bien » (« tout va vient ici »). Elle adorait l’espagnol, sa nouvelle demeure, sa nouvelle passion. Lori, mon amie, tu as troublé mon âme et laissé un grand vide difficile à combler. Je n’ai que des mots de gratitude envers toi. Et, pourtant, la vie continue à couler, elle coule et coule… comme les larmes des mères qui perdent leurs enfants dans toutes les guerres de la planète. Cette planète Terre qui pleure de plus en plus fort pour que l’on prenne soin d’elle, pour que l’on développe une conscience écologique efficace et durable… Temps catastrophiques, oui… excessifs, oui… scandaleux, oui… Et, pourtant, temps de Saturnales et de Noël, de fêtes, de chants et de vœux, de décorer les maisons, d’allumer les bougies et d’offrir des cadeaux, de rêves de santé, de paix et d’amour… tellement on a besoin de diluer les tensions que l’on ressent ; temps d’apaiser nos esprits… de se ressourcer, de reprendre haleine… de se projeter dans un meilleur avenir… malgré… Revenons à nos moutons… Le Dossier central de ce cinquième numéro de la revue HYBRIDA, coordonné par Fabio Libasci, vise à s’interroger sur les multiples enjeux de la notion d’extrême, que ce soit du point de vue chronologique que du point de vue conceptuel. En effet, l’expression « extrême contemporain », étant en perpétuel déplacement, reste spécialement attirante mais problématique, depuis sa création attribuée à Michel Chaillou, à la toute fin des années 80 du siècle dernier. On assisterait, de nos jours, à une « deuxième génération » de l’extrême contemporain. On pourrait donc l’actualiser pour faire référence aux productions littéraires et culturelles récentes au sens large. Du point de vue thématique, l’extrême est vite associé à la notion de limite, de démesure, voire de violence. En ce sens, force est de constater une tendance et une présence des esthétiques de rupture et des formes de l’excès chez des auteur·e·s contemporain·e·s, plus ou moins jeunes, ce qui nous a menés à nous pencher sur les usages et, peut-être les abus, de cette notion poreuse et changeante. Ce Dossier est composé de quatre articles venus de Côte d’Ivoire, de Finlande et de France. Ils abordent l’œuvre des écrivain·e·s Azo Vauguy, Koffi Kwahulé et Hélène Cixous et des cinéastes tels qu’Anne Fontaine, Christopher Doyle ou Julien Abraham. Dans la section Mosaïque, nous publions quatre articles très intéressants également. Hassna Mabrouk, de l’Université Chouaïb Doukkali (Maroc), en s’appuyant sur le révisionnisme historique proposé par les études postcoloniales et subalternes, s’empare de la figure historique de l’explorateur et interprète du début du XVIe siècle Mostafa Al-Azemmouri ou Estevanico, connue essentiellement en Europe sous l’angle de la relation de voyage de Cabeza de Vaca, trop eurocentrée, pour y opposer d’autres représentations de l’explorateur comme celle du personnage Al-Azemmouri qui apparaît dans le roman de Kebir M. Ammi, Les Vertus immorales (2009) où les représentations artistiques qui perdurent dans la ville marocaine d’Azzemmour où il est né. Ahmed Aziz Houdzi, de l’Université Chouaïb Doukkali également, analyse les transformations identitaires du sujet diasporique par rapport aux événements historiques dans le contexte français marqué par les attentats terroristes qui ont eu lieu à Paris en 2015. Il fait une fine lecture de Ce vain combat que tu livres au Monde (2016) de Fouad Laroui où le personnage principal se débat entre le désir d’intégration dans la société laïque et la tentation intégriste incarnée par l’État islamique. Lourdes Rubiales Bonilla de l’Université de Cadix (Espagne) se penche sur « l’affaire Batouala ». Dans son article, elle analyse avec précision les clés de la réception et de la diffusion dans la presse du moment du Prix Goncourt de 1921 octroyé au roman Batouala. Véritable roman nègre de René Maran. Ainsi, elle s’efforce de démontrer les mécanismes de la censure pour essayer de neutraliser le discours politique de l’auteur. Enfin, Diana Requena Romero de l’Université de Valence (Espagne) revient sur la problématique liée à l’étude des personnages féminins dans l’œuvre de Boris Vian. Pour ce faire, elle prend un corpus peu étudié qui est celui des nouvelles de l’auteur afin d’y déceler les processus de métamorphose du corps et les images de l’hybridation de la femme-animal située dans des espaces intermédiaires. Dans la section Traces, plus créative, nous publions trois contributions. Nous avons l’honneur de publier un texte fragmentaire bilingue (en français et en espagnol) de l’écrivaine québécoise, originaire de l’Uruguay, Lula Carballo intitulé restos de barrios (« des restes de quartiers ») où les bribes du passé se mélangent à la rupture du discours à la recherche de nouvelles voies d’expression littéraire. Son premier roman Créatures du hasard (2018) a été spécialement apprécié par la critique. Elle a aussi publié l’album illustré Ensemble nous voyageons (2021), co-écrit avec Catherine-Anne Laranjo et illustré par l’artiste Kesso. Carballo explore avec délicatesse et subtilité la mémoire liée aux souvenirs d’enfance et d’adolescence dans un contexte social spécialement marqué par la pauvreté et la migration, ainsi que les hybridations culturelles et la quête identitaire guidée par l’émotion et par un clair positionnement féministe aux côtés des minorités. Alexandre Melay nous offre [Timescapes], un document photographique présenté par l’auteur où il met en valeur ses préoccupations environnementales et nous fait partager son regard engagé face à « l’impossibilité du paysage » et « l’implacable déconstruction structuraliste du sujet ». Ces photographies en noir en blanc, sorte de cartographie de villes grises, polluées, envahies par les déchets et les éléments inhospitaliers, à l’ère du « Capitalocène », constituent un bel exemple de l’« extrême urbain contemporain ». Enfin, Natalia L. Ferreri de l’Université Nationale de Cordoba et Francisco Aiello de l’Université Nationale de Mar del Plata (toutes deux en Argentine) ont eu la générosité de choisir notre revue pour publier un long entretien en espagnol avec l’écrivaine française (née en Argentine en 1968) Laura Alcoba intitulé « ¿Para qué sirven las historias ? » (« À quoi servent les histoires ? »). Après l’évocation de son sixième et dernier roman intitulé Par la forêt (2022) où la narratrice évoque des expériences traumatiques telles que l’infanticide, le suicide et l’exil, Ferreri et Aiello passent en revue, d’une manière savante et subtile en même temps, les questions essentielles qui traversent l’écriture d’Alcoba où le geste de la traduction, la langue maternelle et la matière des histoires occupent une place prépondérante. Nous inaugurons la section Éventail, où nous voudrions, par le biais des recensions ou des comptes rendus, aérer et diffuser des publications de recherche ou de création proches des intérêts et des perspectives qui animent notre revue. En ce sens, nous publions l’intéressante et complète recension de Martine Renouprez de l’Université de Cadix (Espagne) sur le livre de Laurence Hansen-Love (2022), Planète en ébullition. Écologie, féminisme et responsabilité. Notre revue commence à décoller, à être indexée, répertoriée, présente un peu partout dans le monde grâce au grand intérêt démontré particulièrement par les chercheur·e·s africain·e·s. Un grand merci à vous. Bonne lecture et rendez-vous en juin 2023 pour questionner les « frontières » dans un Dossier intitulé LIMES. Sol invictus.

RESUMENEl culto a los muertos es una práctica documentada en el ser humano desde tiempos prehistóricos. Uno de los fenómenos funerarios que revisten mayor popularidad dentro de la Prehistoria Reciente es el megalitismo, desarrollado en amplios territorios de Europa desde mediados del v milenio cal BC, y caracterizado por la construcción de grandes tumbas colectivas cuyo imaginario permanece en el folclore popular hasta nuestros días. En este trabajo se ofrece una interpretación de las prácticas funerarias que engloban dicho fenómeno a partir del estudio regional del conjunto megalítico de la Lora burgalesa, en el noreste de la Submeseta Norte española. Tras décadas de estudio, que en los últimos años se ha focalizado en el análisis de las colecciones esqueléticas, ha sido posible profundizar en el conocimiento de las sociedades que enterraban a sus muertos en estas tumbas. Palabras clave: megalitismo, prácticas funerarias, enterramientos colectivosTopónimos: Lora burgalesa, Submeseta Norte españolaPeriodo: Neolítico Final, Calcolítico ABSTRACTThe cult of the death has been a well-documented human activity since prehistoric times. A popular funerary phenomenon of Neolithic period is megalithism, developed in large areas of Europe from the mid-5th millennium BC. It is characterised by the construction of large collective tombs that have remained in popular folklore to the present day. This paper offers an interpretative approach to the funerary practices involved in this phenomenon from the regional study of the megalithic complex of la Lora burgalesa, in the northeast of the Spanish North Plateau. Decades of study, which in recent years focus on the analysis of skeletal collections, have provided us with a better knowledge of the societies that buried their ancestors in these tombs. 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Françoise Blum, Héloïse Kiriakou, Martin Mourre, Maria-Benedita Basto, Pierre Guidi, Céline Pauthier, Ophélie Rillon, Alexis Roy et Elena Vezzadini (dir.), Socialismes en Afrique, Paris, Éditions de la Maison des sciences de l’homme, 2021, 716p.

IntroductionThe European will to modify the natural world emerged through English landscape design during the eighteenth century. Released from the neo-classical aesthetic dichotomy of the beautiful and the ugly, new categories of the picturesque and the sublime gestured towards an affective relationship to nature. Europeans began to see the world as a picture, the elements of which were composed as though part of a theatrical scene. Quite literally, as I shall discuss below, gardens were “composed with ‘pantomimic’ elements – ruins of castles and towers, rough hewn bridges, Chinese pagodas and their like” (McGillivray 134–35) transforming natural vistas into theatrical scenes. Such a transformation was made possible by a habit of spectating that was informed by the theatrical metaphor or theatrum mundi, one version of which emphasised the relationship between spectator and the thing seen. The idea of the natural world as an aesthetic object first developed in poetry and painting and then through English landscape garden style was wrought in three dimensions on the land itself. From representations of place a theatrical transformation occurred so that gardens became a places of representation.“The Genius of the Place in All”The eighteenth century inherited theatrum mundi from the Renaissance, although the genealogy of its key features date back to ancient times. Broadly speaking, theatrum mundi was a metaphorical expression of the world and humanity in two ways: dramaturgically and formally. During the Renaissance the dramaturgical metaphor was a moral emblem concerned with the contingency of human life; as Shakespeare famously wrote, “men and women [were] merely players” whose lives consisted of “seven ages” or “acts” (2.7.139–65). In contrast to the dramaturgical metaphor with its emphasis on role-playing humanity, the formalist version highlighted a relationship between spectator, theatre-space and spectacle. Rooted in Renaissance neo-Platonism, the formalist metaphor configured the world as a spectacle and “Man” its spectator. If the dramaturgical metaphor was inflected with medieval moral pessimism, the formalist metaphor was more optimistic.The neo-Platonist spectator searched in the world for a divine plan or grand design and spectatorship became an epistemological challenge. As a seer and a knower on the world stage, the human being became the one who thought about the world not just as a theatre but also through theatre. This is apparent in the etymology of “theatre” from the Greek theatron, or “seeing place,” but the word also shares a stem with “theory”: theaomai or “to look at.” In a graceful compression of both roots, Martin Heidegger suggests a “theatre” might be any “seeing place” in which any thing being beheld offers itself to careful scrutiny by the beholder (163–65). By the eighteenth century, the ancient idea of a seeing-knowing place coalesced with the new empirical method and aesthetic sensibility: the world was out there, so to speak, to provide pleasure and instruction.Joseph Addison, among others, in the first half of the century reconsidered the utilitarian appeal of the natural world and proposed it as the model for artistic inspiration and appreciation. In “Pleasures of the Imagination,” a series of essays in The Spectator published in 1712, Addison claimed that “there is something more bold and masterly in the rough careless strokes of nature, than in the nice touches and embellishments of art,” and compared to the beauty of an ordered garden, “the sight wanders up and down without confinement” the “wide fields of nature” and is “fed with an infinite variety of images, without any certain stint or number” (67).Yet art still had a role because, Addison argues, although “wild scenes [. . .] are more delightful than any artificial shows” the pleasure of nature increases the more it begins to resemble art; the mind experiences the “double” pleasure of comparing nature’s original beauty with its copy (68). This is why “we take delight in a prospect which is well laid out, and diversified, with fields and meadows, woods and rivers” (68); a carefully designed estate can be both profitable and beautiful and “a man might make a pretty landskip of his own possessions” (69). Although nature should always be one’s guide, nonetheless, with some small “improvements” it was possible to transform an estate into a landscape picture. Nearly twenty years later in response to the neo-Palladian architectural ambitions of Richard Boyle, the third Earl of Burlington, and with a similarly pictorial eye to nature, Alexander Pope advised:To build, to plant, whatever you intend,To rear the Column, or the Arch to bend,To swell the Terras, or to sink the Grot;In all, let Nature never be forgot.But treat the Goddess like a modest fair,Nor over-dress, nor leave her wholly bare;Let not each beauty ev’ry where be spy’d,Where half the skill is decently to hide.He gains all points, who pleasingly confounds,Surprizes, varies, and conceals the Bounds.Consult the Genius of the Place in all;That tells the Waters or to rise, or fall,Or helps th’ ambitious Hill the heav’ns to scale,Or scoops in circling theatres the Vale,Calls in the Country, catches opening glades, Joins willing woods, and varies shades from shades,Now breaks or now directs, th’ intending Lines;Paints as you plant, and, as you work, designs. (Epistle IV, ll 47–64) Whereas Addison still gestured towards estate management, Pope explicitly advocated a painterly approach to garden design. His epistle articulated some key principles that he enacted in his own garden at Twickenham and which would inform later garden design. No matter what one added to a landscape, one needed to be guided by nature; one should be moderate in one’s designs and neither plant too much nor too little; one must be aware of the spectator’s journey through the garden and take care to provide variety by creating “surprises” that would be revealed at different points. Finally, one had to find the “spirit” of the place that gave it its distinct character and use this to create the cohesion in diversity that was aspired to in a garden. Nature’s aestheticisation had begun with poetry, developed into painting, and was now enacted on actual natural environments with the emergence of English landscape style. This painterly approach to gardening demanded an imaginative, emotional, and intellectual engagement with place and it stylistically rejected the neo-classical geometry and regularity of the baroque garden (exemplified by Le Nôtre’s gardens at Versailles). Experiencing landscape now took on a third dimension as wealthy landowners and their friends put themselves within the picture frame and into the scene. Although landscape style changed during the century, a number of principles remained more or less consistent: the garden should be modelled on nature but “improved,” any improvements should not be obvious, pictorial composition should be observed, the garden should be concerned with the spectator’s experience and should aim to provoke an imaginative or emotional engagement with it. During the seventeenth century, developments in theatrical technology, particularly the emergence of the proscenium arch theatre with moveable scenery, showed that poetry and painting could be spectacularly combined on the stage. Later in the eighteenth century the artist and stage designer Philippe Jacques de Loutherbourg combined picturesque painting aesthetics with theatrical design in works such as The Wonders of Derbyshire in 1779 (McGillivray 136). It was a short step to shift the onstage scene outside. Theatricality was invoked when pictorial principles were applied three dimensionally; gardens became sites for pastoral genre scenes that ambiguously positioned their visitors both as spectators and actors. Theatrical SceneryGardens and theatres were explicitly connected. Like “theatre,” the word “garden” was sometimes used to describe a collection, in book form, which promised “a whole world of items” which was not always “redeemable” in “straightforward ways” (Hunt, Gardens 54–55). Theatrum mundi could be emblematically expressed in a garden through statues and architectural fabriques which drew spectators into complex chains of associations involving literature, art, and society, as they progressed through it.In the previous century, writes John Dixon Hunt, “the expectation of a fine garden [. . .] was that it work upon its visitor, involving him [sic] often insidiously as a participant in its dramas, which were presented to him as he explored its spaces by a variety of statues, inscriptions and [. . .] hydraulically controlled automata” (Gardens 54). Such devices, which featured heavily in the Italian baroque garden, were by the mid eighteenth century seen by English and French garden theorists to be overly contrived. Nonetheless, as David Marshall argues, “eighteenth-century garden design is famous for its excesses [. . .] the picturesque garden may have aimed to be less theatrical, but it aimed no less to be theater” (38). Such gardens still required their visitors’ participation and were designed to deliver an experience that stimulated the spectators’ imaginations and emotions as they moved through them. Theatrum mundi is implicit in eighteenth-century gardens through a common idea of the world reimagined into four geographical quadrants emblematically represented by fabriques in the garden. The model here is Alexander Pope’s influential poem, “The Temple of Fame” (1715), which depicted the eponymous temple with four different geographic faces: its western face was represented by western classical architecture, its east face by Chinese, Persian, and Assyrian, its north was Gothic and Celtic, and its south, Egyptian. These tropes make their appearance in eighteenth-century landscape gardens. In Désert de Retz, a garden created between 1774 and 1789 by François Racine de Monville, about twenty kilometres west of Paris, one can still see amongst its remaining fabriques: a ruined “gothic” church, a “Tartar” tent (it used to have a Chinese maison, now lost), a pyramid, and the classically inspired Temple of Pan. Similar principles underpin the design of Jardin (now Parc) Monceau that I discuss below. Retz: Figure 1. Tartar tent.Figure 2. Temple of PanStowe Gardens in Buckinghamshire has a similar array of structures (although the classical predominates) including its original Chinese pavillion. It, too, once featured a pyramid designed by the architect and playwright John Vanbrugh, and erected as a memorial to him after his death in 1726. On it was carved a quote from Horace that explicitly referenced the dramaturgical version of theatrum mundi: You have played, eaten enough and drunk enough,Now is time to leave the stage for younger men. (Garnett 19) Stowe’s Elysian Fields, designed by William Kent in the 1730s according to picturesque principles, offered its visitor two narrative choices, to take the Path of Virtue or the Path of Vice, just like a re-imagined morality play. As visitors progressed along their chosen paths they would encounter various fabriques and statues, some carved with inscriptions in either Latin or English, like the Vanbrugh pyramid, that would encourage associations between the ancient world and the contemporary world of the garden’s owner Richard Temple, Lord Cobham, and his circle. Stowe: Figure 3. Chinese Pavillion.Figure 4. Temple of VirtueKent’s background was as a painter and scene designer and he brought a theatrical sensibility to his designs; as Hunt writes, Kent particularly enjoyed designing “recessions into woodland space where ‘wings’ [were] created” (Picturesque 29). Importantly, Kent’s garden drawings reveal his awareness of gardens as “theatrical scenes for human action and interaction, where the premium is upon more personal experiences” and it this spatial dimension that was opened up at Stowe (Picturesque 30).Picturesque garden design emphasised pictorial composition that was similar to stage design and because a garden, like a stage, was a three-dimensional place for human action, it could also function as a set for that action. Unlike a painting, a garden was experiential and time-based and a visitor to it had an experience not unlike, to cautiously use an anachronism, a contemporary promenade performance. The habit of imaginatively wandering through a theatre in book-form, moving associatively from one item to the next, trying to discern the author’s pattern or structure, was one educated Europeans were used to, and a garden provided an embodied dimension to this activity. We can see how this might have been by visiting Parc Monceau in Paris which still contains remnants of the garden designed by Louis Carrogis (known as Carmontelle) for the Duc de Chartres in the 1770s. Carmontelle, like Kent, had a theatrical background and his primary role was as head of entertainments for the Orléans family; as such he was responsible for designing and writing plays for the family’s private theatricals (Hays 449). According to Hunt, Carmontelle intended visitors to Jardin de Monceau to take a specific itinerary through its “quantity of curious things”:Visitors entered by a Chinese gateway, next door to a gothic building that served as a chemical laboratory, and passed through greenhouses and coloured pavilions. Upon pressing a button, a mirrored wall opened into a winter garden painted with trompe-l’œil trees, floored with red sand, filled with exotic plants, and containing at its far end a grotto in which supper parties were held while music was played in the chamber above. Outside was a farm. Then there followed a series of exotic “locations”: a Temple of Mars, a winding river with an island of rocks and a Dutch mill, a dairy, two flower gardens, a Turkish tent poised, minaret-like, above an icehouse, a grove of tombs [. . .], and an Italian vineyard with a classical Bacchus at its center, regularly laid out to contrast with an irregular wood that succeeded it. The final stretches of the itinerary included a Naumachia or Roman water-theatre [. . .], more Turkish and Chinese effects, a ruined castle, yet another water-mill, and an island on which sheep grazed. (Picturesque 121) Monceau: Figure 5. Naumachia.Figure 6. PyramidIn its presentation of a multitude of different times and different places one can trace a line of descent from Jardin de Monceau to the great nineteenth-century World Expos and on to Disneyland. This lineage is not as trite as it seems once we realise that Carmontelle himself intended the garden to represent “all times and all places” and Pope’s four quadrants of the world were represented by fabriques at Monceau (Picturesque 121). As Jardin de Monceau reveals, gardens were also sites for smaller performative interventions such as the popular fêtes champêtres, garden parties in which the participants ate, drank, danced, played music, and acted in comedies. Role playing and masquerade were an important part of the fêtes as we see, for example, in Jean-Antoine Watteau’s Fêtes Vénitiennes (1718–19) where a “Moorishly” attired man addresses (or is dancing with) a young woman before an audience of young men and women, lolling around a fabrique (Watteau). Scenic design in the theatre inspired garden designs and gardens “featured prominently as dramatic locations in intermezzi, operas, and plays”, an exchange that encouraged visitors to gardens to see themselves as performers as much as spectators (Hunt, Gardens 64). A garden, particularly within the liminal aegis of a fête was a site for deceptions, tricks, ruses and revelations, assignations and seductions, all activities which were inherently theatrical; in such a garden visitors could find themselves acting in or watching a comedy or drama of their own devising. Marie-Antoinette built English gardens and a rural “hamlet” at Versailles. She and her intimate circle would retire to rustic cottages, which belied the opulence of their interiors, and dressed in white muslin dresses and straw hats, would play at being dairy maids, milking cows (pre-cleaned by the servants) into fine porcelain buckets (Martin 3). Just as the queen acted in pastoral operas in her theatre in the grounds of the Petit Trianon, her hamlet provided an opportunity for her to “live” a pastoral fantasy. Similarly, François Racine de Monville, who commissioned Désert de Retz, was a talented harpist and flautist and his Temple of Pan was, appropriately, a music room.Versailles: Figure 7. Hamlet ConclusionRichard Steele, Addison’s friend and co-founder of The Spectator, casually invoked theatrum mundi when he wrote in 1720: “the World and the Stage [. . .] have been ten thousand times observed to be the Pictures of one another” (51). Steele’s reiteration of a Renaissance commonplace revealed a different emphasis, an emphasis on the metaphor’s spatial and spectacular elements. Although Steele reasserts the idea that the world and stage resemble each other, he does so through a third level of abstraction: it is as pictures that they have an affinity. World and stage are both positioned for the observer within complementary picture frames and it is as pictures that he or she is invited to make sense of them. The formalist version of theatrum mundi invokes a spectator beholding the world for his (usually!) pleasure and in the process nature itself is transformed. No longer were natural landscapes wildernesses to be tamed and economically exploited, but could become gardens rendered into scenes for their aristocratic owners’ pleasure. Désert de Retz, as its name suggests, was an artfully composed wilderness, a version of the natural world sculpted into scenery. Theatrum mundi, through the aesthetic category of the picturesque, emerged in English landscape style and effected a theatricalised transformation of nature that was enacted in the aristocratic gardens of Europe.ReferencesAddison, Joseph. The Spectator. No. 414 (25 June 1712): 67–70. Eighteenth Century Collections Online.Garnett, Oliver. Stowe. Buckinghamshire. The National Trust, 2011.Hays, David. “Carmontelle's Design for the Jardin de Monceau: A Freemasonic Garden in Late-Eighteenth-Century France.” Eighteenth-Century Studies 32.4 (1999): 447–62.Heidegger, Martin. The Question Concerning Technology and Other Essays. Trans. William Lovitt. New York: Harper and Row, 1977.Hunt, John Dixon. Gardens and the Picturesque: Studies in the History of Landscape Architecture. Cambridge, Massachusetts: MIT Press, 1992.———. The Picturesque Garden in Europe. London: Thames and Hudson, 2002.Marshall, David. The Frame of Art. Fictions of Aesthetic Experience, 1750–1815. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins UP, 2005.Martin, Meredith S. Dairy Queens: The Politics of Pastoral Architecture from Catherine de' Medici to Marie-Antoinette. Harvard: Harvard UP, 2011.McGillivray, Glen. "The Picturesque World Stage." Performance Research 13.4 (2008): 127–39.Pope, Alexander. “Epistle IV. To Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington.” Epistles to Several Persons. London, 1744. Eighteenth Century Collections Online.———. The Temple of Fame: A Vision. By Mr. Pope. 2nd ed. London, 1715. Eighteenth Century Collections Online. Shakespeare, William. As You Like It. Ed. Agnes Latham. London: Routledge, 1991.Steele, Richard. The Theatre. No. 7 (23 January 1720).