Littérature scientifique sur le sujet « Vêtements – Terminologie »

Il presente lavoro si inserisce nel filone degli studi terminologici francesi con l’analisi della terminologia della moda, di cui è indagato, quale campo di ricerca privilegiato, il settore del vêtement d’extérieur. Viene adottato un modello descrittivo ampio, fondato sulla riconciliazione teorica e metodologica tra diacronia e sincronia e su un approccio interdisciplinare alla disciplina terminologica. Lo studio è articolato in due parti: la prima sezione è dedicata alla ricostruzione della terminologia del vêtement d’extérieur in diacronia. Dopo una premessa metodologica circa la redazione delle schede terminologiche, è tracciato il percorso che conduce, dal ristretto nucleo di unità terminologiche in antico francese, alla complessa rete lessicale nel francese contemporaneo. Nella seconda sezione, sono approfondite le dimensioni applicate, che vanno dall’elaborazione informatica di ontoterminologie allo studio della variazione terminologica in contesti professionali eterogenei, fino alla rassegna di prodotti lessicografici e terminografici della moda, in contesti di comunicazione monolingue e plurilingue. Infine, dopo aver enucleato l’approccio alla terminologia, si ripercorrono i risultati salienti della ricerca e si delineano ulteriori prospettive di indagine.
This work analyses the French terminology of fashion, particularly the field of the outerwear, within the framework of French terminological research. A broad descriptive model is adopted, based on the theoretical and methodological reconciliation between diachrony and synchrony, as well as on an interdisciplinary approach to terminology. The study is divided into two parts: the former is devoted to the historical reconstruction of the outerwear terminology. After a methodological introduction about term records, we trace the path leading from the small group of terminological units in Old French to the complex lexical network in contemporary French. In the latter section, the applied dimensions are explored, including the construction of “ontoterminologies”, the study of terminology variation in heterogeneous professional contexts, and the list of lexicographical and terminographic resources for fashion, both in monolingual and multilingual communication. Finally, the description of the approach to terminology is followed by the main results of the research and by further perspectives of study.

Il presente lavoro si inserisce nel filone degli studi terminologici francesi con l’analisi della terminologia della moda, di cui è indagato, quale campo di ricerca privilegiato, il settore del vêtement d’extérieur. Viene adottato un modello descrittivo ampio, fondato sulla riconciliazione teorica e metodologica tra diacronia e sincronia e su un approccio interdisciplinare alla disciplina terminologica. Lo studio è articolato in due parti: la prima sezione è dedicata alla ricostruzione della terminologia del vêtement d’extérieur in diacronia. Dopo una premessa metodologica circa la redazione delle schede terminologiche, è tracciato il percorso che conduce, dal ristretto nucleo di unità terminologiche in antico francese, alla complessa rete lessicale nel francese contemporaneo. Nella seconda sezione, sono approfondite le dimensioni applicate, che vanno dall’elaborazione informatica di ontoterminologie allo studio della variazione terminologica in contesti professionali eterogenei, fino alla rassegna di prodotti lessicografici e terminografici della moda, in contesti di comunicazione monolingue e plurilingue. Infine, dopo aver enucleato l’approccio alla terminologia, si ripercorrono i risultati salienti della ricerca e si delineano ulteriori prospettive di indagine.
This work analyses the French terminology of fashion, particularly the field of the outerwear, within the framework of French terminological research. A broad descriptive model is adopted, based on the theoretical and methodological reconciliation between diachrony and synchrony, as well as on an interdisciplinary approach to terminology. The study is divided into two parts: the former is devoted to the historical reconstruction of the outerwear terminology. After a methodological introduction about term records, we trace the path leading from the small group of terminological units in Old French to the complex lexical network in contemporary French. In the latter section, the applied dimensions are explored, including the construction of “ontoterminologies”, the study of terminology variation in heterogeneous professional contexts, and the list of lexicographical and terminographic resources for fashion, both in monolingual and multilingual communication. Finally, the description of the approach to terminology is followed by the main results of the research and by further perspectives of study.

La présente thèse consiste en une étude en diachronie de la terminologie du prêt-à-porter féminin dans des catalogues français de vente par correspondance depuis l’introduction du concept en France au début des années 1950. Notre travail est centré sur les emprunts à l’anglais et les créations sous influence anglaise comparativement à la néologie dans l’ensemble de notre corpus.Notre objectif est, d’une part, d’apprécier l’influence de l’anglais dans cette terminologie et, d’autre part, d’appréhender les tendances et mécanismes propres à ce domaine. Par l’étude des néologismes, des nécrologismes et des termes stables de notre corpus, nous examinons le renouvellement terminologique, ses mécanismes et ses motivations.Nous avons travaillé par comparaison de sous-corpus distants de cinq ans environ, chacun composé des catalogues des collections Printemps-Été et Automne-Hiver d’une année donnée. Les termes, collectés et traités manuellement, ont dans un premier temps fait l’objet d’une étude synchronique, à l’aide de sources secondaires, pour établir leur étymologie, leur définition et les catégoriser selon une typologie adaptée de la typologie des emprunts proposée par l’Office québécois de la langue française. Dans un second temps, les analyses diachroniques se sont fondées sur un trépied méthodologique formé des termes du corpus, des visuels des catalogues et d’avis d’experts. Sur le plan théorique, ces analyses se sont appuyées sur des théories issues de la linguistique et de la sociologie, en tenant compte de logiques économiques et d’autres facteurs, tels que des évènements historiques et sociétaux.Ces analyses nous ont permis d’étayer la place de l’anglais dans ce domaine ainsi que l’importance du renouvellement terminologique, fréquemment citées dans la littérature. De plus, au-delà de logiques propres au fonctionnement de la mode, notre corpus a révélé une régularité dans l’activité néologique permettant d’appuyer l’hypothèse d’un renouvellement à fréquence générationnelle. Enfin, nous proposons une réflexion sur la nécessité de travaux – en linguistique notamment – dans le domaine de la mode, compte tenu du manque d’étude sur le sujet et des lacunes des sources dictionnairiques
This dissertation is a diachronic study of the terminology of women’s ready-to-wear fashion in French mail-order catalogs since the introduction of the ready-to-wear concept in France in the early 1950s. Our work focuses on English borrowings and English-influenced neologisms, compared with neologisms in our corpus as a whole.Our goal is two-fold: we wish, first, to assess the influence of English in this terminology, and second, to delineate trends and mechanisms specific to this field. Based on a study of neologisms, necrologisms, and stable terms in our corpus, we examine terminological renewal, its mechanisms, and its motivations.We compared sub-corpora approximately five years apart, each comprising the catalogs from the Spring-Summer and Fall-Winter collections of a given year. The terms were collected and studied manually. They were first studied synchronically, using secondary sources to establish their etymologies, their definitions, and their types, according to a typology adapted from the Office québécois de la langue française’s typology of borrowings. Secondly, terms were analyzed diachronically using a three-part methodological framework, consisting of the terms from our corpus, of the visuals from the catalogs, and of expert opinions. These analyses drew on theories from linguistics and sociology, while also considering economic and other factors, such as historical and societal events.Our analyses enabled us to show the importance of the English language in this field, as well as the importance of terminological renewal, both frequently cited in academic works. Our corpus demonstrated neological activity that goes beyond the dynamics of fashion and that supports the hypothesis of regular generational terminological renewal. Finally, we propose a reflection on the need for work – linguistic research in particular – in the field of fashion, given the lack of studies on the subject and the shortcomings of dictionary sources

Par « définition ontologique du terme », nous entendons une définition qui repose sur une représentation explicite du concept dénoté par le terme (la norme ISO 1087-1 définit le terme comme une « désignation verbale d’un concept général dans un domaine spécifique »). Cette démarche permet non seulement de prendre en compte les dimensions linguistique et conceptuelle qui composent toute terminologie, mais aussi de concilier les définitions des termes en langue et les spécifications formelles des concepts. Le résultat est un dictionnaire terminologique structuré selon l’ontologie du domaine (au sens de l’Ingénierie des Connaissances). Une telle approche, qui a un coût non négligeable, celui de la construction de l’ontologie, se justifie lorsqu’il existe un « flou » terminologique tel qu’il nuit à la communication et au partage des connaissances dans un domaine de spécialité. C’est le cas de la terminologie des vêtements de la Grèce antique.