Thèses sur le sujet « Men’s clothing »

Metrosexual men living in Växjö travel to other bigger cities in order to purchase desirable clothing. They are highly concerned about expressing desirable image through clothing, brand selection and personal attachments. Strong appearance and fashion awareness as well as desire for refreshing their wardrobe and image update categorize them as early adopters of new clothing collections. Metrosexual men are favorite brand switchers, which means brand loyal to few clothing brands within product category.

South African clothing retailers are currently struggling to obtain and retain market share as a result of the challenging economic climate, new international market entrants and changes in consumer behaviour (MarketLine, 2018). In particular, consumer behaviour relating to men’s clothing is changing and for the first time in decades, menswear is dominating the South African clothing retail industry (MarketLine, 2018; Hastreiter & Marchetti, 2016). A lucrative market segment is the Millennial generation, born between 1980 and 2000 (Cham, Ng, Lim & Cheng, 2018; Cho, 2017). Consequently, knowledge on the clothing consumer behaviour of specifically Millennial men is crucial and the topic is still under explored, resulting in a research gap, which inspired this study. The store image perceived by the consumer has a direct influence on store choice and is important for retailer success. Since personal values ultimately drive consumer decision-making, an understanding of the personal values that motivate store choice may assist clothing retailers with their positioning (store image) to obtain customer loyalty and a sustainable competitive advantage. Gutman (1982) means-end chain (MEC) theory explains that consumers make choices based on the product/store attributes that they perceive as ultimately assisting them in reaching the desirable end-state (personal value). An MEC is a hierarchical structure that consists of three main interconnected levels, namely, attributes (means), consequences and personal values (ends), which are organised according to the level of abstraction. This study applied the MEC as a theoretical framework for exploring and understanding the role of Millennial men’s personal values in their perception of store image and their store choice. Laddering is a probing technique that is used specifically in MEC studies to uncover underlying motivations for behaviour. This technique can be used in qualitative studies (where it is referred to as soft laddering) and also in quantitative studies (where it is referred to as hard laddering). This exploratory mixed-method study started with an initial qualitative phase and the findings were subsequently used to develop the measuring instrument for the second quantitative phase. The second quantitative phase specifically used the Association Pattern Technique (APT), a hard laddering technique developed by Ter Hofstede, Audenaert, Steenkamp and Wedel (1998). Using a series of matrices, the APT reveals how consumers link desirable attributes, sought-after consequences and personal values. Using non-probability sampling methods (i.e. convenience-, snowball and quota sampling), 25 participants were recruited in the first phase and 408 workable questionnaires were obtained during the second phase. The personal in-depth interviews conducted during phase 1 used soft laddering and elicited the attributes and consequences that are pivotal in clothing store choice. Together with these attributes and consequences, the ten basic personal values of Schwartz (1992) and colleagues (2001; 2014) were used to develop the matrices for the measuring instrument used in phase 2. During this phase, data was collected using a self-administered questionnaire that was completed online. The findings of this study indicate that hedonism ultimately motivates store image and store choice. Although the personal values of “self-direction”, “achievement” and “power” were also indicated as motivational drivers within different demographic subsets and different types of clothing retailers, “hedonism” unequivocally was found to be the most relevant personal value. It is therefore hedonism that influences Millennial men’s clothing store image and store choice. From this study it is recommended that clothing retailers in South Africa, targeting the Millennial male, pay specific attention to hedonism in terms of the design and implementation of their marketing strategies to give credit to consumers’ need to associate with a store image that projects a pleasurable experience. Clothing retailers that can successfully position themselves accordingly, will most likely be favoured.
Thesis (PhD)--University of Pretoria, 2019.
Consumer Science
PhD
Unrestricted

Thesis (BTech (Fashion Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010
Wearing clothes such as the white shirt is a part of everyday life and history. In the 21st century, the persistence of the white shirt as a staple basic menswear garment is still apparent, and thus the focus of this range. The white menswear button- up shirt is not simply worn for any insignificant reason but may signify a number of associations, such as: purity, status, class, righteousness or it may even stand as a symbol of human rights. I would also want to add eco-consciousness to these meanings. As environmental awareness increases and the need to curb the effects of global warming becomes more pressing, the design-conscious and eco-conscious consumer plays a fundamental role in achieving this role.

Thesis (M.A. in apparel, merchandising, design and textiles)--Washington State University, May 2010.
Title from PDF title page (viewed on July 7, 2010). "Department of Apparel, Merchandising, Design & Textiles." Includes bibliographical references (p. 59-62).

The purposes of this study were (1) to identify selected consumers' attitudes toward purchasing domestic- made shirts and those imported from a low-wage country, and (2) to evaluate the relative effects of price, brand name, and country-of-origin on perception of quality of menâ s dress shirts. A convenience sample of 120 male undergraduate students registered at Virginia Tech completed questionnaires in selected classes.

Research hypotheses that consumers' attitudes toward selected beneficial and imagery attributes would be more positive for domestic shirts than for imported shirts were supported in the single cue situation. The effects of price, brand name and country-of-origin on consumers' quality perception were significant with price and brand name slightly more important than country-of-origin. The interactions between price and country-of-origin, and between brand name and country-of-origin were not significant.

Master of Science

The UK market in fashion retailing is recognised as being the most concentrated in the world and companies in this sector are constantly striving to improve their market share and profitability. To do this requires a strong market position, which is developed, maintained and communicated to the target customer. This thesis explores the key issues of consumer and retailer perspectives of store positioning, how customers and retail employees perceive this image; and how image variables can be manipulated to defend or enhance market positioning. It concludes by developing a framework to indicate how image can be strategically managed. The literature review commences by setting out the historical perspective of the study of consumer behaviour and discusses a number of models, which aim to explain shopper attitude towards store and product selection. It moves on to investigate the attributes contributing to store image perception and to explore a number of methods of measuring store image. Past and current trends in retailing are examined and marketing strategies in the formation of retail image are discussed. The methodological pluralism used to obtain, generate and analyse data, is justified and results from four separate research phases. The exploratory research phase utilised qualitative methods to identify factors contributing towards store choice. In the second phase a multi-attribute model was applied to data to measure consumer and retail staff perception of store image. Furthermore, the congruence of customer and employee perception was evaluated. The third phase considered how con'sumers make store choice decisions by trading off attributes and allowed segmentation of sub-groups of customers with similar purchasing characteristics. The fourth phase used an interpretative approach to understand and compare key marketing strategies for two retailers. The conclusion highlights the issues that retailers have to manage in a fragmented market of consumers with high expectations of product quality, customer service and store environment. The research identifies that store choice factors vary not only between sectors but also significantly within sectors and shows product quality to be the prime factor. In addition, employee store image perception is acknowledged to be a useful indicator of customer purchase intention and the research emphasises the importance of companies having an organisational culture, which nurtures employee attitudes, motivation and skills to anticipate consumer behaviour and to provide quality service.

This works explores how to work with Event scores as a design method. In the search for what is real or what is reality the already existing things are being explored. The work started with investigating suitable ways to work with the moving body in the design process, with the aim to find a method that gave control but also left some parameters to the undecided and ambiguous. Convinced that this will lead to something new some parts of the process were highlighted and re-formulated.
Program: Modedesignutbildningen

This thesis considers the figure of the metrosexual, a contemporary archetype of stylish masculinity that has received considerable attention in the global media. It traces the development of a style-conscious and consuming masculinity in the West since the eighteenth century, through the figures of the dandy, the playboy and the new man. It also traces the discourse that has emerged in relation to metrosexuality in the Western media, from its first mention to the present. The metrosexual represents a significant departure from the norms of Western masculinity, most notably in his relationship to the homosexual and homoerotic. This thesis considers the implications of such a version of masculinity as they relate to women, gay men and theories of masculine subjectivity.

The purpose of this research was to establish the relationship between the stylistic changes the men's business suit and the masculine roles as represented in advertising imagery in the United States from 1950 through 1988. The men's business suit is a behavioral expectation for business and professional men often called "white collar workers." The suits are a social product given to change as collective tastes are manifest over time. The masculine role, a set of behavioral expectations dictated by consensus, is also a social product given to change over time. This research examined the relationship between changes in styling of men's business suits, and changes in masculine roles apparent in advertising.

A content analysis of men's business suits was executed to quantify the stylistic expressions, manifest in the structural components of the business suit. The classic appearance was represented by a composite illustration and was used as a device against which to compare the dominant style traits apparent in business suits for each decade researched. A survey of advertising and editorial spreads in The New York Times, Esquire and Vogue was combined with a survey of scholarly literature on gender and masculine roles to determine the pervasive masculine roles for each decade.
Master of Science

The aim of this research was to investigate the possibility of adopting the lens of fashion and clothing in order to explore the older men’s experience of ageing. In this vein, as a creative practitioner, I sought to explore the vantage point and the relationship between fashion and clothing, embodiment and the physical and social processes of growing older in relation to individuals' experiences. A multi-disciplinary literature review revealed that fashion and clothing is a significant, yet often overlooked, element of individuals' experiences of ageing. Furthermore, this contextual review exposed an array of various influential stereotypes especially in regards to gender and ageing. Notably, the topic of older men and fashion seems to intersect two stereotypical assumptions; firstly, that fashion is a sphere exclusively reserved for women; and, secondly, that individuals' interest and engagement with fashion ceases significantly as they grow older. As a consequence, the majority of the existing studies investigating this phenomenon tend to focus on older women, their experiences and expectations towards clothing. While there is no doubt that such scholarship is valuable, such an imbalance needs to be addressed. Via this thesis I aim to contribute to the fulfillment of this identified gap in knowledge. In this research, I have developed a novel hybrid methodology, Arts-Informed Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis. Rooted in phenomenology and arts, this methodology put to the test the concept of 'making' as a valid way of data analysis, equal to writing. My research process built on the concept of the hermeneutic circle; the subsequent activities of writing and making allowed me to constantly move between different elements of the participants' experiences, which in turn facilitated the conditions for more in-depth and holistic understanding and enhanced interpretations. In addition, such an approach gave me the opportunity to utilise my skills and sensibilities as an artist and designer and to blur the boundaries between the artificially disconnected domains of fashion research and practice. This research found that ageing, fashion, clothing, men and masculinities are not disjointed. Fashion and clothing was not only revealed as a valid and useful lens through which individuals' experiences of ageing can be analysed and interpreted but also the experiences of men in this study proved to be rich and meaningful. This research culminated in a unified body of work that has relevance to the fields of psychology, sociology, as well as art and design. A composition of the research outcomes consisted of a series of suit jackets, short films and written accounts offering novel insights into a particular sample of men's individual and shared experiences of ageing. In addition, such a multi-layered composition of research outcomes has the potential to reach audiences beyond academia. Contributions to knowledge are claimed in the three following areas: . The novelty of the topic of investigation into mature men's experiences of ageing through the lens of fashion and clothing; . The uniqueness of the developed hybrid methodology, Arts-Informed Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis; . The originality of the outcomes arising from this investigation.

A wear test of men’s polypropylene indoor exercise prototypes was conducted to investigate heat and moisture measurements during exercise and compare the results to a man exercising in a partially nude condition. The usefulness of infrared thermography as instrumentation for observation of surface temperature during a wear test was also investigated. Based on Univariate Analysis of Variance with Repeated Measures, one prototype was shown to react in a more similar manner to the skin of a man exercising in a partially nude condition. Pearson Correlation was used to determine the relationships between the data from the infrared camera and the data from wearer sensation scales. Little correlation was found and the results were not consistent over time. Results from the data obtained with the infrared camera suggested other uses for the instrumentation, such as observation of heat flow properties of various fibers. A description of various methods and instrumentation for collecting heat and moisture data during a wear test is included. The wear test procedure and use of the infrared camera are described.
Master of Science

The varieties of decorative finishing of men`s suits used by the designers of the world Fashion Houses in their collections at the beginning of the 21st century have been studied. The main directions of development of decoration of men`s clothing and its main tendencies have been determined; the artistic means of decoration of men`s suits have been identified.
Досліджено різновиди декоративного оздоблення чоловічого костюма, які використовували дизайнери світових Будинків моди у своїх колекціях на початку ХХІ ст. Визначено основні напрями розвитку декорування чоловічого одягу, його основні тенденції; виявлено художні засоби оздоблення чоловічого костюма.

South Africa, as many of the countries on the African continent, has for a long time been discriminated against when it comes to export of clothing and textiles. The trade regulations are now getting more favorable and the US and European markets are becoming more open for exports from the African continent.

We came in contact with the House of Monatic, which is a manufacturer of high quality men’s wear clothing in South Africa, and found that they were interested in us doing an export analysis of the company. The House of Monatic is an old colonial company founded in 1906 with over 1000 employees. The head office is situated in Cape Town, South Africa. Monatic manufactures licensed brands such as Yves Saint-Laurent as well as their own brands. At present the company is exporting to countries on the African continent, United Kingdom, Ireland and the United States. The thesis was mostly carried out at the House of Monatic in Cape Town where we stayed for three months. The method was to interview all the managers at the company to find out how the export management is run today and through theories find alternative exports strategies and how to improve the company’s current strategies. We also made a customer survey, which we sent out to Monatic’s customers to see

The end of apartheid in 1994 opened the borders not only for further exports but also for imports from overseas countries. This made Monatic’s domestic market share shrink and expanding through exports to new international markets became inevitable. Because the trade regulations are becoming more favorable we believe the international market is where profits can be found, especially on the US market. A risk when exporting is that profitability can be dependent on the exchange rates between currencies. As a solution to this problem Monatic could convince its international customers to do business in the South African currency, Rand. Monatic is currently establishing contacts in the US where they are setting up a new sales office. Monatic is going to introduce one of their own brands by letting a customer called Nordstrom sell it.

We think this is wise to sneak into the market and to not undertake large marketing campaigns, which could prove to be too costly. We believe it is risky for Monatic to enter several markets at the same time and that Monatic should concentrate on positioning itself on the US market at the moment. But we think it is smart to establish new contacts on other markets so that Monatic is ready when the opportunities come. We believe the Sub Saharan market has some potential that is worth further investigation. The UK market seems to have stagnated at the moment and we think it will become more profitable when the economy in Europe has recuperated. In the meantime it is best not to make to much investments but to harvest the profits that can be gained. There seem to be confusion about weather Monatic should focus on being a designer house or a manufacturer. It is difficult to combine the big bulk customers with boutique customers in the same production line.

Many of the customers wants improved design according to a customer survey we conducted. We also believe that the customers need to be organized in a classification system depending on volume and profitability. This would help Monatic to decide on how to distribute its limited resources. IT is becoming more and more frequently used among Monatic’s business partners. To not risking being pushed out of the market it is important to be ahead of competitors. By introducing an online order system and a product tracking system at the home page Monatic would decrease the workload of the sales staff. Furthermore it would make it easier for customers and Monatic would gain more competitive advantage by this facility. We also believe that by establishing their own shops in South Africa, Monatic’s brand would be strengthened and become more competitive on the domestic market. A Monatic shop would give an entire atmosphere and service to the customer that would

This thesis explores high-end and bespoke menswear, tailoring and fashion, asking the question - why do some men choose to spend large sums of money to have clothes made for them? Using tailors and high-end menswear as a lens, this thesis unpacks how men construct their notion of self in the digital and terrestrial worlds through the clothes that they wear and the identities they perform. Based on twelve months' terrestrial fieldwork in London and twenty-four months' concurrent digital fieldwork with Instagram, this thesis examines notions of dress, performance and the individual across a multi-dimensional fieldsite set within a blended digital and terrestrial landscape. The fieldwork comprised visiting and interviewing tailors, and observing inside their workshops and at their fashion shows. In addition, the analyst-as-client built relationships with tailors, and constructed a digital self within Instagram through the publication of self-portraits and images of clothing. This thesis is presented in four chapters, flanked by an Introduction and Conclusion. These chapters move from an exploration of terrestrial research in the first two, to an analysis of digital research in the latter two. Five major motifs emerge in this thesis: the importance of the anthropology of clothing and adornment within western society; the nature of the individual in a digitised world; the difficulty in conducting western-centric fieldwork without an element of digital analysis; a methodological restructuring of digital anthropology; and the idea that a digital self can acquire agency. This thesis employs a pioneering blended methodology which brings together the fields of digital anthropology, visual anthropology and material culture to question how selves are constructed in a rapidly changing and increasingly digitised modernity. In conclusion, the thesis argues that individuals construct multiple digital selves and a sense of identity (around the notion of 'authentic individualism') that is illusory.

Представлено образно-стилістичний аналіз жіночого і чоловічого костюма др. пол. XIX ст., визначено актуальність жіночого одягу, що базується на поєднанні формотворчих і стильових рис чоловічого і жіночого костюма. Представлено моделі колекції жіночого одягу, розроблені з елементами історичного костюма, обґрунтовано проектні рішення.
The figurative and stylistic analysis of women's and men's costumes of the second half of the 19th century is presented, the relevance of women's clothing is determined, which is based on a combination of formative and stylistic features of men's and women's costumes. Models of the women's clothing collection, developed with elements of historical costume, are presented, design decisions are substantiated.

Костюм епохи бідермейєр відрізняється своєю формою від інших костюмів XIX сторіччя. Характерні об’ємні рукава-буфи, пишна спідниця-дзвін, вузька, знижена талія прикрашена ремінем, або стрічкою. Жіночий костюм повністю віддзеркалював тенденції чоловічого. Сюртуки або фраки з зібраними по окату в верхній частині рукавами. Модними були образи денді в корсетах та з фігурно зав’язаними хустками під коміром сорочки. Актуальність теми пояснюється підвищеним інтересом суспільства до минулих століть, необхідністю аналізу одягу історичного стилю бідермейєр в повсякденній культурі з метою застосування його елементів у розробці сучасних моделей одягу. Метою дослідження є удосконалення дизайн-проектування сучасного одягу на основі тенденцій моди середини XIX ст., вивчення форм і структури складових композиційних елементів історичного костюма. Об’єктом дослідження є процес художнього проектування сучасного одягу на основі принципів формоутворення історичного костюма періоду бідермаєр. Предметом дослідження є розробка художньо-композиційних принципів проектування сучасного жіночого одягу на основі історичних особливостей і крою костюма періоду бідермаєр. Наукова новизна полягає в теоретичному обґрунтуванні застосування системи гармонізації тектонічної структури і візуалізації форм сучасного одягу з використанням історичних мотивів; застосуванні методів системно-структурного аналізу конструктивних елементів для поліпшення ергономічних характеристик сучасного одягу. Практичне значення отриманих результатів полягає в розробці рекомендацій до створення проектних рішень колекцій сучасного костюма вдосконалення етичних норм. На основі проведених досліджень виконано проектування сучасної колекції жіночого одягу з покращеними естетичними якостями та поєднанням сучасних тенденцій, та історичних елементів, що присутні в костюмі періоду бідермаєр.
Костюм эпохи бидермейер отличается своей формой от других костюмов XIX столетия. Характерные объемные рукава-буфы, пышная юбка-колокол, узкая, снижена талия украшена ремнем или лентой. Женский костюм полностью отражал тенденции мужского. Сюртуки или фраки с собранными по окату в верхней части рукавами. Очень модные денди в корсетах и с фигурно завязанными платками под воротником рубашки. Актуальность темы обясняется повышеным интересом общества к прошлым векам, необходимостью анализа одежды исторического стиля бидермейер в культуре повседневности. Целью исследования является совершенствование дизайн-проектирования современной одежды на основе тенденций моды середины XIX века, классификация форм и структуры составляющих композиционных элементов исторического костюма. Объектом исследования является процесс художественного проектирования современной одежды на основе принципов формообразования исторического костюма периода бидермайер. Предметом исследования является разработка художественно-композиционных принципов проектирования современной женской одежды на основе исторических особенностей и кроя костюма периода бидермайер. Научная новизна заключается в теоретическом обосновании применения системы гармонизации тектонической структуры и визуализации форм современной одежды с использованием исторических мотивов; применение методов системно-структурного анализа конструктивных элементов для улучшения эргономических характеристик современной одежды. Практическое значение полученных результатов заключается в разработке рекомендаций для создания проектных решений коллекций современного костюма совершенствования этических норм. На основе проведенных исследований выполнено проектирование современной коллекции женской одежды с улучшенными эстетическими качествами и сочетанием современных тенденций, и исторических элементов, присутствующих в костюме периода бидермайер.
The costume of the Biedermeier era is very expressed in its form against the background of the entire 19th century. Characteristic voluminous puff sleeves, a fluffy bell skirt, narrow, lowered waist is decorated with a belt or ribbon. The women's suit fully reflected the men's tendencies. Suits or tailcoats, with sleeves gathered along the rim, in the upper part. Very fashionable dandies in corsets and with figuratively tied shawls under the shirt collar. The need for a scientific analysis of the Biedermeier period lies in the increased public interest in past centuries, cultures and the relevance of the historical style of clothing in everyday life. The aim of the study is to improve the design of modern clothing based on the fashion trends of the mid-19th century, to classify the forms and structures of the constituent composite elements of the historical costume. The object of the research is the process of artistic design of modern clothing based on the principles of shaping the historical costume of the Biedermeier period. The subject of the research is the development of artistic and compositional principles for the design of modern women's clothing based on historical features and the cut of the costume of the Biedermeier period. Scientific novelty lies in the theoretical substantiation of the application of the tectonic structure harmonization system and the visualization of the forms of modern clothing using historical motives; application of methods of system-structural analysis of structural elements to improve the ergonomic characteristics of modern clothing. The practical significance of the results obtained lies in the development of recommendations for the creation of design solutions for collections of a modern suit for the improvement of ethical standards. Based on the research carried out, the design of a modern collection of women's clothing with improved aesthetic qualities and a combination of modern trends and historical elements present in the costume of the Biedermeier period has been carried out.

This paper examines consumer preferences regarding men’s underwear and aimed to assist the owner of the Skidmark brand with recommendations how to improve existing product and to extend product portfolio. Primary and secondary data was used in this study to overview the industry and to identify market trends and consumers preferences. Two data collection activities are discussed, ten one-on-one interviews and one focus group which revealed consumer’s reactions and feedback regarding Skidmark exciting and proposed products. Recommendations for production, price and promotion are given; limitations of the study discussed.
text

by Lai Hau-yee, Lee Siu-ling.
Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1995.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves 68-70).
ACKNOWLEDGMENT --- p.iii
ABSTRACT --- p.iv
TABLE OF CONTENTS --- p.v
Chapter
Chapter I. --- INTRODUCTION --- p.1
Scope --- p.1
Statement of Problems --- p.2
Motive for Shopping --- p.3
Source of Product Information --- p.3
Choice of Outlet/Product --- p.3
Influencer of Purchase Decision --- p.3
Type of Salesperson Preferred --- p.4
Chapter II. --- RESEARCH METHODOLOGY --- p.5
Research Design --- p.5
Exploratory Research --- p.5
Descriptive Research --- p.6
Data Collection Method --- p.7
Secondary Data --- p.7
Primary Data --- p.7
Fieldwork --- p.8
Analysis --- p.9
Chapter III. --- LITERATURE REVIEW --- p.10
Chapter IV. --- ENVIRONMENTAL ANALYSIS --- p.14
Purpose --- p.14
External Environment --- p.14
Population Demographics --- p.15
Economic Environment --- p.15
Infrastructure --- p.16
Taxation --- p.16
Legal Environment and Government Bureaucracy --- p.17
Political Environment --- p.19
Competitive Environment --- p.20
Culture --- p.20
Marketing Environment --- p.22
Market Segmentation --- p.22
Product --- p.23
Price --- p.24
Distribution --- p.24
Promotion --- p.26
Chapter V. --- SURVEY FINDINGS --- p.29
Results of Descriptive Research --- p.29
Cross-Tabulation --- p.29
Hypothesis Testing --- p.39
Chapter VI. --- CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS --- p.45
Chapter VII. --- LIMITATIONS --- p.49
APPENDICES --- p.53
BIBLIOGRAPHY --- p.68

More research has been conducted regarding women's costume history than that of men's historic costume. One area in which little research has been conducted concerns men's boxer underwear. The need for additional research dealing with basic style changes of men's boxer undershorts was compelling to this researcher, as well as adding to the literature concerning men's historic costume. The purpose of this study was to research the availability of men's boxer undershorts post World War II (1946-1988). Specifically, based on pictorial underwear fashions illustrated in the Sears Annual Merchandise Catalog, this study documented and analyzed the availability of boxer undershorts as to fiber content, fabric structure, color, style features, and special design motifs during the time period studied. The objective of the study was to increase the knowledge of men's historic costume through an investigation into the styles of men's boxer undershorts. The historical continuity of fashion, as well as other theories concerning fashion change served as the theoretical framework for this study. The historical continuity process of fashion proposes that each new fashion is an evolutionary outgrowth and elaboration of the previous fashion (Blumer, 1969). Examples include past research by Young (1937), Kroeber (1919), and Robinson (1976), which indicated that changes in fashions took place in well-defined cycles. It is believed by some researchers that broad fashion trends follow an evolutionary process. However, specific fashion details and styles may be a result of social events, technological advances, and other cultural activities. Studies by researcher's such as Baker (1962), Nugent (1962), and Behling (1985-1986) found relationships between women's clothing and changes in society. To document and analyze men's boxer undershorts, Sears Annual Merchandise Catalog was selected. Spring/Summer issues in two-year issues were chosen between the years of 1946 and 1988, which yielded a sample of 237 boxer undershorts. With seriation of the boxer undershorts, a frequency distribution was completed. Five research hypotheses were tested to accomplish the objective of the study. Results indicated that there were differences between the frequency of occurrence among a) fiber content, b) color, and c) style features. However, there was not a significant difference of occurrence among fabric structure of men's boxer undershorts. In addition, due to lack of information concerning fabric design motifs, an analysis was not able to be performed concerning this hypothesis. These findings support the belief that there are broad changes in boxer undershorts which follow an evolutionary process, however, specific changes in details are a result of society's influence. This is evident in the changes concerning fiber content, color, and style features which were influenced by technological advances. The fact that fabric structure of boxer undershorts was not influenced by society suggests that this is a broad trend which follows an evolutionary process. Comparing these results with data collected from advertisments in a fashion magazine such as Esquire is suggested for further study. The data also suggest that further study comparing the trends in style features of boxer undershorts documented in this study with those of men's trousers of the same time period would provide another topic for research.
Graduation date: 1991

This is an in-depth analysis of competing cultural ideas at a pivotal time in Japanese history through study of masculinity and identity. Through diaries, newspaper articles, and illustrations found in popular periodicals of the Meiji period, it is evident that there were two major groups who espoused very different sets of ideals competing for the favor of the masses and the control of Japanese progress in the modern world. Manner of dress, comportment, hygiene, and various other parts of outward appearance signified the mentality and ideology of the person in question. One group espoused traditional Japanese ideas of masculinity and dress while another advocated embracing Western dress and culture. This, in turn, explained their opinions on the direction they believed Japan should take. Throughout the Meiji period (1868-1912), the two ideas grew and competed for supremacy until the late Meiji period when they merged to form a traditional-minded modernity.
Department of History

Dissertation submitted in compliance with the requirements for the Masters Degree: Fashion, Durban Institute of Technology, 2004.
This study sought to reveal conceptual connections between experienced social reality and garment products as cultural artefacts. Evaluation of the aesthetic fashion appeal of garment products was seen as a specialised interpretive skill. Modelling of essential elements of fashion meaning in South African men's leisurewear aimed to render professional interpretive acumen more widely accessible
M

Clothing is the primary means that wilderness backpackers have to protect themselves from injuries and illnesses that can occur while hiking in the cold. The current method of layering clothing may not meet backpackers' needs for both thermal insulation and heat dissipation, particularly in areas of the body that produce greater sweat, and during times of high physical exertion. No previous studies have addressed backpackers' needs for thermal and moisture comfort in different body areas within a single layer garment. The purpose of this study was to design and evaluate a single-layer garment of different textiles, to improve the physiological comfort of male backpackers hiking in cold winter weather conditions. The objectives of this study were to identify the physiological comfort needs of male backpackers hiking in the cold, to design a prototype backpacking shirt to improve comfort, and to evaluate the comfort and performance of the prototype over time, in comparison to a control. Male backpackers were recruited from a wilderness therapy company in Bend, Oregon, where subjects' employment duties included regularly backpacking in the cold. Qualitative data was collected by interviewing the subjects about their physiological comfort needs, types of garments and materials worn, dissatisfactions and preferences with hiking clothing, and locations on the body that need better attention to thermal and moisture comfort. Information provided by the qualitative interviews was used to develop design criteria. From the guarded hot plate and moisture management testing, results were used to select one thermal insulation, moisture management, and control fabric for the garment design. Based on the design criteria, a prototype shirt was developed. A prototype garment was constructed using the combination of the thermal, moisture, and control fabrics; while a control garment was constructed in an identical style using only the control fabric. The prototype and control garments were worn and tested by subjects while they backpacked. Additionally, comparisons of thermal insulation data between the prototype and control garment were collected on a thermal manikin. Major findings from the qualitative interviews were that subjects preferred base layer shirts made with synthetic fibers and style features that helped retain body heat. Subjects preferred to have greater thermal insulation in the chest and the arms, and less thermal insulation in the underarms and upper back area. Additionally, subjects were concerned about durability. A polyester fleece pile-knit was selected for the thermal insulation fabric and located in the arms and chest of the prototype. The moisture management fabric selected was a polyester fiber mesh knit fabric and was located in the upper back, underarms, and side seams of the garment. The control fabric was a brushed polyester double knit fabric and was located in all other body areas of the prototype and in the entire control garment. The wear test data indicated that both the control and prototype garments were perceived to be comfortable. The prototype had slightly better overall comfort than the control, and there were significant differences found between the prototype and the control in the areas of overall comfort, combined thermal comfort, and combined moisture comfort. The prototype did not consistently have better comfort performance than the control in each trial and for each subject. It was found that the prototype and control shirts could be worn without additional layers when the temperatures were above 35 ��F and 40 ��F, respectively. Thermal manikin testing results confirmed that the overall thermal insulation of both test shirts was equal, but that the prototype had greater or less thermal insulation than the control in specific body areas, depending on the placement of the thermal insulation or moisture management fabric. In summary, the prototype shirt designed in this study has accomplished the goal of providing backpackers' physiological comfort needs identified in the qualitative interviews.�� The design prototype, when worn alone, is able to keep backpackers comfortable when hiking in cold conditions, particularly in temperatures above 35��F. Although not intended to be worn as part of a layer system, the prototype also keeps backpackers comfortable when they are wearing multiple clothing layers. The use of different fabrics in different body areas satisfies the backpackers' needs of both retaining and dissipating body heat with changes in physical activity. Although both the prototype and the control shirts were found to have good thermal, moisture, and overall comfort, the prototype had slightly higher overall comfort ratings than the control.�� In addition, both the prototype and the control were perceived to be better than the subjects' own base layer shirts, and all subjects were willing to recommend the shirts to other hikers.
Graduation date: 2013

This study proposes a loyalty segmentation model for the South African men's retail credit fashion industry. Retailers operate in a highly competitive market where competitors strive for share-of-wallet of the same customer. The likely victor in this battle is the retailer who best understands customer needs, purchase behaviour and utilises this information to influence customer's spending patterns. The research method comprised a postal survey to randomly selected customers. The process included the construct of the loyalty model which comprised four input models, namely the Competitiveness, Brand experience, Referral and Credit appeal models as well as a number of customer demographics. The Desert scenario, where extreme conditions exist, is used as the analogy for the Segmentation model, with four macro segments (Desert, Oasis, Sand Storm, Rain clouds) being used to categorise respondents along two criteria, namely that of value and relative risk. Segment characteristics are used to segment the retailer's database.
Business Management
MCom (Business Management)

Thesis (MVerbruikerswet)--University of Stellenbosch, 2006.
ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The retail environment in South Africa is dynamic and complex. The apparel retailing industry functions within an emergent economic milieu, and the consumers it targets are exposed to various factors that influence their shopping behaviour. Some of these factors are shopping orientation, patronage behaviour, lifestyle, and shopping mall behaviour. Male apparel shopping behaviour can therefore be regarded as a complex phenomenon. The aim of this study was to identify those factors that influence male apparel shopping behaviour and to determine whether distinct clusters of male apparel shoppers could be identified. Theoretical models in the study discipline of Consumer Behaviour were investigated. The information was synthesised into an expanded conceptual model of variables influencing male apparel shopping behaviour. The variables that are relevant to this study, include demographic characteristics, lifestyle, shopping orientation, patronage behaviour, and shopping mall behaviour. Information for this exploratory study was generated by means of a store-intercept interview. The questionnaire was based on previous research. Trained fieldworkers conducted the interviews with 297 male apparel shoppers. Eight lifestyle components were identified and labelled as follows: Apparel oriented lifestyle; Performing arts defined lifestyle; Media oriented lifestyle; Socialising lifestyle; Sport oriented lifestyle; Published information oriented lifestyle; Relaxing oriented lifestyle as well as Family/community oriented lifestyle. The three shopping orientation components identified were labelled Local store patronage; Credit prone, Brand conscious and fashion innovating; as well as Shopping self-confidence and enjoyment. Four cluster profiles of male apparel shoppers were formed by means of cluster analysis, according to the eight lifestyles components and three shopping orientation components, as well as the 11 patronage behaviour items. Demographic characteristics describing each cluster profile completed the typology of the four male apparel shopper groups. Cluster 1 was the largest (38%) and was labelled Traditionalists. Its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 4. Cluster 2 was labelled Shopping enthusiasts, and its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 3; they comprised 19% of the total group. Cluster 3 was the second largest (30%) cluster and was identified as Dynamics, and its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 3 and 4. Cluster 4 (13%) was labelled as Laggards, and its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 2. It was evident that the male apparel market is not homogeneous and that it could be clustered into distinct segments of male apparel shoppers with similar characteristics. The following can be regarded as the main implications for retailers, shopping mall management, and marketers: • In order to make retailers’ marketing plan more focused and strategic, marketers could make use of the proposed expanded conceptual model that provides them with an overall view of variables influencing male apparel shopping behaviour within a shopping mall environment. The identified profiles of male apparel shoppers could serve as point of departure when composing marketing strategies. • Advertising and promotional campaigns must be versatile in order to cater for the identified cluster profiles of male apparel consumers. • Male apparel consumers behave differently within different retail stores and shopping malls. Retailers and shopping mall management should therefore attempt to understand their consumers’ needs, wants and, more importantly, prerequisites for patronising their stores and/or shopping malls. South African male apparel consumers should not be considered a homogenous group. Further research should be done across various cultural and ethnic groups, as well as across different gender and age groups. This study focused only on a few concepts pertaining to male apparel shoppers aged 20-35. As, a result, further research is needed to assess the impact of these variables on a wider spectrum of apparel consumers, such as males outside this age demarcation, females or teenagers, and mature shoppers. Recommendations for future research were made which can guide and encourage further scientific research in the field of apparel shopping behaviour.
AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Suid-Afrika beskik oor ‘n dinamiese en komplekse kleinhandelomgewing. Die klerekleinhandelindustrie funksioneer binne ‘n ontwikkelende ekonomiese milieu, en ‘n verskeidenheid faktore beinvloed die teikenverbruikers se koopgedrag. Sommige van die faktore is koop-oriëntasie, winkelvoorkeurgedrag, lewenstyl en winkelsentrumgedrag. Mansklerekoopgedrag kan dus as a komplekse verskynsel beskou word. Die doel van hierdie studie was om die veranderlikes wat mansklerekoopgedrag beïnvloed te identifiseer, en om te bepaal of die onderskeibare groepe van mansklereverbruikers geïdentifiseer kan word. Teoretiese modelle in die studieveld van Verbruikergedrag is bestudeer. Die inligting is verfyn en verder ontwikkel tot ‘n omvattende konseptuele model van veranderlikes wat mansklerekoopgedrag beïnvloed. Die veranderlikes relevant vir hierdie studie sluit in: die demografiese eienskappe, lewenstyl, kooporiëntasie, winkelvoorkeurgedrag, asook winkelsentrumgedrag. Data vir hierdie verkennende studie is verkry deur respondente in winkels te nader vir ‘n onderhoud (store intercept interview). Die vraelys is op vorige navorsing gebaseer. Opgeleide veldwerkers het 297 onderhoude gevoer met mansklereverbruikers. Agt lewenstylkomponente is geïdentifiseer en soos volg benoem: Klere-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Uitvoerende kunste-georënteerde lewenstyl; Mediageoriënteerde lewenstyl; Sosialiserings-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Sport-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Gepubiseerde informasie-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Ontspannings-georiënteerde lewenstyl asook Familie/gemeenskaps-georiënteerde lewenstyl. Die drie kooporiëntasie-komponente was benoem as plaaslike winkelvoorkeuroriëntasie; krediet-geneigdheid, handelsmerk en mode-innoverende oriëntasie, asook aankoop-selfvertroue en genot-oriëntasie. Vier groepe profiele van mansklereverbruikers is deur middel van trosanalise gevorm. Die trosanalise is gedoen op grond van die agt lewenstylkomponente, die drie kooporiëntasie komponente asook die 11 winkelvoorkeurgedrag-items. Die tipering van die vier groepe is afgerond deur die demografiese eienskappe: Groep 1 was die grootste (38%) en is Traditionalists genoem, en is geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 4. Groep 2 is Shopping enthusiasts genoem en maak 19% van die totale groep uit. Hulle is geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 3. Groep 3 was die tweede grootste (30%) groep en is Dynamics genoem, en is geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Levels 3 en 4. Groep 4 (13%) is Laggards genoem en geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 2. Dit is dus duidelik dat die mansklere-aankopersmark nie homogeen is nie en dat hulle in onderskeibare segmente van mansklere-aankopers met ooreenkomstige eienskappe gegroepeer kan word. Die volgende kan beskou word as die belangrikste implikasies vir kleinhandelaars, winkelsentrumbestuur en bemarkers: • Om kleinhandelaars se bemarkingsplan ‘n meer gefokusde en strategiese wending te gee, kan hulle gebruik maak van die voorgestelde uitgebreide konseptuele model wat hul van ‘n oorsig voorsien oor die veranderlikes wat mansklere-aankoopgedrag binne ‘n winkelsentrumomgewing beïnvloed. Die geïdentifiseerde profiele van mansklere-aankopers kan as vertrekpunt dien wanneer bemarkingstrategieë saamgestel word. • Advertensie- en promosieveldtogte moet veelsydig wees om vir die geïdentifiseerde groepe van mansklereverbruikers of -aankopers te voorsien. • Mansklereverbruikers toon verskillende soorte gedrag in verskillende kleinhandelwinkels en winkelsentrums. Kleinhandelaars en winkelsentrumbestuur moet ‘n poging aanwend om hul verbruikers se behoeftes en begeertes, maar bowenal in hul voorkeurgedrag vir winkels/winkelsentrums, te voorsien. Suid-Afrikaanse mansklereverbruikers moet nie as ‘n homogene groep beskou word nie. Verdere navorsing moet oor verskeie kulturele en etniese groepe heen, asook oor verskillende geslags- en ouderdomsgroepe, gedoen word. Hierdie studie fokus alleenlik op ‘n paar konsepte wat betrekking het op mansklereverbruikers tussen 20 en 35 jaar. Gevolglik word verdere navorsing benodig om die impak van hierdie veranderlikes op ‘n wyer spektrum van verbruikers te beraam, byvoorbeeld mans buite die ouderdomsperk, vrouens, tienderjariges, en bejaarde verbruikers. Aanbevelings vir toekomstige navorsing word gemaak wat verdere wetenskaplike navorsing in die studieveld van klereaankoopgedrag kan rig en aanmoedig.

v anglickém jazyce The dissertation thesis with title "Presumptions of the formation of the modern men's suit" elaborates the general and unique features in the typology of men's court, military and ecclesiastical clothes. Research, which is based on written, iconographical and material sources, is aimed at environment at the court of the Austrian Habsburgs in early new ages from the end of the 15th century till beginning of the 90s of the 18th century having respect to history of clothing in the in Czech countries in the context with European clothing culture. The conception of the thesis goes out from the approach to men's suit in the history of clothing as to the cultural discipline. The main theoretic-metodological basis is investigsation of the general and the unique features in the concrete types of the men's clothing, which are characterized most of all of the contemporary construction (cut), material (cloth) and colours of the men's clothing and which has got the style-forming importance by means of these general features. The results of the research work amplifies not only the knowledge in the area of the clothing history, but also brings the possibility of practical application of this knowledge to increase of the cultural values of written, iconographical and material memories with time,...