Bibliografías temáticas / Wave breaking

Literatura académica sobre el tema "Wave breaking"

Autor: Grafiati
Publicado: 4 de junio de 2021
Última modificación: 20 de abril de 2024

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Artículos de revistas sobre el tema "Wave breaking"

1

Bulanov, S. V., F. Pegoraro, A. M. Pukhov y A. S. Sakharov. "Transverse-Wake Wave Breaking". Physical Review Letters 78, n.º 22 (2 de junio de 1997): 4205–8. http://dx.doi.org/10.1103/physrevlett.78.4205.

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Hwang, Paul A., Delun Xu y Jin Wu. "Breaking of wind-generated waves: measurements and characteristics". Journal of Fluid Mechanics 202 (mayo de 1989): 177–200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s002211208900114x.

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A method of using local wave properties to provide a detailed description of breakings in a random wave field is developed. These properties, derived through the Hilbert transform, include the angular frequency, phase velocity, and surface-velocity components. The breaking characteristics are presented, including the probability of breaking, its time- and lengthscales, its intensity, and the phase of its inception. The time- and lengthscales, of breaking events were found to be linearly proportional to the corresponding scales of underlying waves, and to indicate that the breaking region is geometrically similar. Consistent results were obtained from temporal and spatial measurements. Finally, on the basis of these results we have evaluated geometric and kinematic criteria for identifying breaking waves.
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3

Li, Changfei, Fuping Gao y Lijing Yang. "Breaking-Wave Induced Transient Pore Pressure in a Sandy Seabed: Flume Modeling and Observations". Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, n.º 2 (5 de febrero de 2021): 160. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9020160.

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Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused on non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced pore pressure response in a sandy seabed was physically simulated with a large wave flume. The breaking-wave was generated by superimposing a series of longer waves onto the foregoing shorter waves at a specified location. Water surface elevations and the corresponding pore pressure in the process of wave breaking were measured simultaneously at three typical locations, i.e., at the rear, just at, and in front of the wave breaking location. Based on test results, characterization parameters are proposed for the wave surface elevations and the corresponding pore-pressures. Flume observations indicate that the wave height was greatly diminished during wave breaking, which further affected the pore-pressure responses. Moreover, the measured values of the characteristic time parameters for the breaking-wave induced pore-pressure are larger than those for the free surface elevation of breaking-waves. Under the action of incipient-breaking or broken waves, the measured values of the amplitude of transient pore-pressures are generally smaller than the predicted results with the analytical solution by Yamamoto et al. (1978) for non-breaking regular waves with equivalent values of characteristic wave height and wave period.
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4

Tejerina-Risso, J. y P. Le Gal. "Around the Cusp Singularity and the Breaking of Waves". Leonardo 47, n.º 1 (febrero de 2014): 80–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.1162/leon_a_00687.

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WAVES is an “Art-Science” project on water surface waves. The authors aim to visualize the behaviour of water waves during their evolution: generation, focusing and breaking. Relying on the general property of waves to focus when properly generated or reflected, the authors use a parabolically shaped wave maker to focus water waves in a region of the water surface called the Huygens cusp in optics and then record these breakings using a fast video camera. A novel and spectacular vision of wave breakings is obtained when playing at slow speed.
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5

Seyama, Akira y Akira Kimura. "THE MEASURED PROPERTIES OF IRREGULAR WAVE BREAKING AND WAVE HEIGHT CHANGE AFTER BREAKING ON THE SLOPE". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, n.º 21 (29 de enero de 1988): 29. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.29.

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Wave height change of the zero-down-cross waves on uniform slopes were examined experimentally. The properties of shoaling, breaking and decay after breaking for a total of about 4,000 irregular waves of the Pierson-Moskowitz type on 4 different slopes (1/10, 1/20, 1/30 and 1/50) were investigated. The shoaling property of the zero-down-cross waves can be approximated by the linear wave theory. However, the properties of breaking and decay after breaking differ considerably from those for periodic waves. The wave height water depth ratio (H/d) at the breaking point for the zero-down-cross waves is about 30% smaller than that for periodic waves on average despite the slopes. Wave height decay after breaking also differs from that for periodic waves and can be classified into three regions, i.e. shoaling, plunging and bore regions. Experimental equations for the breaking condition and wave height change after breaking are proposed in the study. A new definition of water depth for the zero-crossing wave analysis which can reduce the fluctuation in the plotted data is also proposed.
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6

You, Tao, Li Ping Zhao, Zheng Xiao, Lun Chao Huang y Xiao Rui Han. "Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore". Applied Mechanics and Materials 858 (noviembre de 2016): 354–58. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.858.354.

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Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height variation caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction, and about the wave breaking criterion under regular and irregular breaking waves. Flume experiments relating to the regular and irregular breaking wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. The agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results.
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7

Knobler, Sagi, Ewelina Winiarska, Alexander Babanin y Dan Liberzon. "Wave breaking probabilities under wind forcing in open sea and laboratory". Physics of Fluids 34, n.º 3 (marzo de 2022): 032122. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/5.0084276.

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Water wave breaking represents one of the most arduous problems in fluid mechanics. Understanding the process of wave breaking and developing an ability to quantify the associated energy losses and redistribution are critical across a wide range of coastal oceanic applications, maritime navigation, and climate and hydrodynamic research. Naturally, waves become steeper toward the inception of breaking; however, there is still a lack of unanimity regarding the relationship between breaking probability statistics and wave steepness. Here, we present a detailed investigation of breaking vs non-breaking statistics estimated using a recently developed method for accurate detection of breaking waves, based on the phase-time approach to identify breaking-associated patterns in the instantaneous frequency variations of surface elevation fluctuations. The findings are based on data collected both in the open sea and in a laboratory wind wave flume. An in-depth examination of celerities and steepnesses of breaking and non-breaking waves is presented. The analysis, which involved wave-by-wave examination, produced skewed Gaussian-like steepness histograms, revealing that non-breaking waves and breaking waves can reach steeper profiles, above the Stokes limit. All extreme steepness values were investigated and are presented here.
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8

Kishi, Tsutomu. "TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF A LONG WAVE OF FINITE HEIGHT". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, n.º 8 (29 de enero de 2011): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.5.

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On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation. In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief considerations are given to the effects of bottom friction on wave transformation. In § 2, breaking of a long wave is discussed. Breakings on a uniformly sloping beach and on a beach of parabolic profile are considered and the effects of beach profile on breaking are clarified. Finally in § 3, experimental results on wave run-up over l/30 slope are described in comparing with the Kaplan's results.
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9

Banner, Michael L. "The influence of wave breaking on the surface pressure distribution in wind—wave interactions". Journal of Fluid Mechanics 211 (febrero de 1990): 463–95. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112090001653.

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In reviewing the current status of our understanding of the mechanisms underlying wind-wave generation, it is apparent that existing theories and models are not applicable to situations where the sea surface is disturbed by breaking waves, and that the available experimental data on this question are sparse. In this context, this paper presents the results of a detailed study of the effects of wave breaking on the aerodynamic surface pressure distribution and consequent wave-coherent momentum flux, as well as its influence on the total wind stress.Two complementary experimental configurations were used to focus on the details and consequences of the pressure distribution over breaking waves under wind forcing. The first utilized a stationary breaking wave configuration and confirmed the presence of significant phase shifting, due to air flow separation effects, between the surface pressure and surface elevation (and slope) distributions over a range of wind speeds. The second configuration examined the pressure distribution, recorded at a fixed height above the mean water surface just above the crest level, over short mechanically triggered waves which were induced to break almost continuously under wind forcing. This allowed a very detailed comparison of the form drag for actively breaking waves and for waves of comparable steepness just prior to breaking (‘incipiently’ breaking waves). For these propagating steep-wave experiments, the pressure phase shifts and distributions closely paralleled the stationary configuration findings. Moreover, a large increase (typically 100%) in the total windstress was observed for the breaking waves, with the increase corresponding closely to the comparably enhanced form drag associated with the actively breaking waves.In addition to further elucidating some fundamental features of wind-wave interactions for very steep wind waves, this paper provides a useful data set for future model calculations of wind flow over breaking waves. The results also provide the basis for a parameterization of the wind input source function applicable for a wave field undergoing active breaking, an important result for numerical modelling of short wind waves.
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Dao, M. H., H. Xu, E. S. Chan y P. Tkalich. "Modelling of tsunami wave run-up, breaking and impact on vertical wall by SPH method". Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Discussions 1, n.º 3 (22 de junio de 2013): 2831–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhessd-1-2831-2013.

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Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modeling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on vertical wall using two methods, the enhanced Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method and the traditional non-breaking nonlinear model Tunami-N2. The Tunami-N2 model fails to capture the evolution of steep waves at the proximity of breaking that observed in the experiments. Whereas, the SPH method successfully simulate the wave propagation, breaking, impact on structure and the reform and breaking processes of wave run-down. The study also indicates that inadequate approximation of the wave breaking could lead to significant under-predictions of wave height and impact pressure on structures. The SPH model shows potential applications for accurate impact assessments of wave run-up onto coastal structures.
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Tesis sobre el tema "Wave breaking"

1

Pullen, Timothy Arnold. "A numerical study of breaking waves and breaking criteria". Thesis, University of Brighton, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.251809.

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Griffiths, Matthew W. P. "Breaking waves". Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 1989. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/13963.

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Sweeny, Margaret E. "Breaking wave turbulence in the surf zone". Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2005. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion/05Jun%5FSweeny.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Applied Science (Physical Oceanography))--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2005.
Thesis Advisor(s): Timothy P. Stanton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 51). Also available online.
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4

Tew, R. "Imaging theory of surface-breaking discontinuities". Thesis, University of Oxford, 1987. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.380008.

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Weir, Brad. "The transfer of momentum from waves to currents due to wave breaking". Diss., The University of Arizona, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/195128.

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The research presented in this dissertation focuses on understanding the dynamics of waves and currents in the presence of wave breaking. The simplest approach, direct numerical simulation of the ocean dynamics, is computationally prohibitive--waves typically have periods of tens of seconds, while currents vary on times from hours to days. This work uses a multi-scale asymptotic theory for the waves and currents (Craik and Leibovich, 1976; McWilliams et al., 2004}, similar to Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes, in order to avoid resolving the wave field. The theory decomposes the total flow into the mean flow (current) and fluctuations (waves), then takes a moving time average of the total flow equations to determine the wave forcing on the current. The main challenge is extending this theory to include a physical model for dissipative wave effects, notably breaking, in terms of the wave age, wind speed, and bottom topography. Wave breaking is difficult to observe, model, and predict, because it is an unsteady, non-linear process that takes place over disparate scales in both space and time. In the open ocean, white-capping often covers less than 2% of the surface, yet still plays an important role in the flux of mass, momentum, heat, and chemicals between the atmosphere and ocean. The first part of this dissertation proposes a stochastic model for white-capping events, and examines the stability of the ensemble average of these events. Near the shore, the decreasing ocean depth causes waves to overturn and break. Over time, this drives currents that erode sediment from beaches and deposit it around coastal structures. These currents are often so strong that their effect on the wave field, and thus their own forcing, is significant. A detailed analysis of this phenomena makes up the second part of this dissertation.
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Müller, Gerald Uwe. "A study of breaking wave loads on a shoreline wave power station". Thesis, Queen's University Belfast, 1993. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.333837.

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Shand, Thomas Duncan Civil &amp Environmental Engineering Faculty of Engineering UNSW. "The effect of wave grouping on shoaling and breaking processes". Awarded by:University of New South Wales. Civil & Environmental Engineering, 2009. http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/44588.

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Determining the largest breaking wave height which can occur in water of finite depth is a fundamental reference quantity for the design of coastal structures. Current design guidelines are based on investigations which predominantly used monochromatic waves, thereby neglecting group effects which are inherent to the free propagation of waves in deep water. The Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM) states that wave grouping and its consequences is of significant concern, with breakwater armour damage being generally attributed to higher waves associated with wave groups. However, the CEM also acknowledges that there is little guidance and few formulae for use in practical engineering. This thesis describes a laboratory-based investigation into the effect of wave groupiness on wave shoaling, breaking and surf zone processes. New optical-based techniques for data abstraction, developed within this study, have allowed examination of the interaction between deep water intra-wave group processes and shallow water shoaling processes. The applicability of existing methods for predicting breaking wave height and position is evaluated, along with the implications of groupiness on engineering design in the nearshore. The effect of wave groupiness on overtopping and hazard on emerged rock platforms is similarly assessed. Wave group testing has revealed that the spatial phasing of intra-group processes during shoaling can result in considerably different shoaling and breaking regimes. Under certain regimes, wave breaking occurred further shoreward and in a more plunging manner than under other regimes. Within the mid to inner surf zone, waves were also observed to propagate into shallower water before breaking than is predicted by existing design guidelines. This could result in under-prediction of wave height by up to 100%. Expressions are developed for the prediction of maximum wave heights and surface elevation on plane slopes. These expressions implicitly include non-linear group effects and group-induced water-level variations within the surf zone, and are found to provide conservative upper envelopes for the range of data observed within the current testing regimes. Predictive schemes are similarly developed for overtopping hazard on emerged rock platforms based on critical wave and water-level conditions. Variations in maximum overtopping flow values due to intra-wave group processes of up to +/-35% were found. These group effects were found to reduce by up to 30% the threshold wave conditions before the initiation of hazard.
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Zhang, Erik. "Breaking of a rod induced by wave propagation". Thesis, KTH, Teoretisk fysik, 2014. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:kth:diva-145873.

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The aim of this project is to visualize multiple failure of an inelastic rod, caused by wave propagating through the rod, as the result can be applied to a spaghetti where it commonly breaks into multiple pieces. By looking into the wave we will see that when the wave propagates, it will cause local increase of bending which causes a secondary break. Method which is used to solve this problem is primary solving a fourth order partial dierential equation (PDE) which is derived from calculus of variations. This PDE is then solved numerically and analytically. Other approach to this problem is also done, where the simulation is based on basic solid and rigid mechanics. The method used to perform these calculation and simulation is shown and how it is implemented in MATLAB. Results from the mechanics point of view can be questioned, but the result based on the PDE do show promise as it have a successful attempt in showing waves to exists and are related to the secondary breaks.
Rapportens mål är att använda olika metoder för att visualisera hur en spröd stav (där sträck och brottgränsen ligger vid samma punkt) kan brytas i 　era delar, på grund av vågor som fortplantar sig i materialet. Denna process kan exempelvis appliceras i vardagliga problemet, om varför en spaghetti oftast bryts i 　era delar. Det angrepps punkt som rapporten har på problem, är då att simulera dess rörelse, efter att man har släppt en stav från ett jämt böjt läge, där den fria punkten ska motsvara ett första brott. Det som kommer då visas att det bildas lokala ökningar av böjningar, vilket motsvarar lokala spänningar ökas jämfört med initialt läget. Två metoder kommer testas, en lösning med energi perspektiv kommer användas, som löses analytisk och numerisk. Den andra metoden, är en mekaniks synsätt, där grundläggande mekanik och hållfasthetslära används. Dess fysik och matematik, kommer att presenteras i rapporten och dess implementation i MATLAB. Resultatet från den mekaniska tillvägagångssätt kan diskuteras, då resultat inte nådde upp till förväntan. Resultatet från energiska perspektivet klarar av att visa att vågor propagerar, och hur dessa skapar lokala ökningar av spänningar, vilket kan ses som en lyckad simulering.
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Ryu, Yong Uk. "Extreme wave impinging and overtopping". [College Station, Tex. : Texas A&M University, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/ETD-TAMU-1768.

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Jorgensen, Carther Frederic. "Wave slopes and breaking distributions in the surf zone". Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1996. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA309161.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, March 1996.
"March 1996." Thesis advisor(s): Edward B. Thornton, Thomas C. Lippmann. Bibliography: p. 47-48. Also Available online.
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Libros sobre el tema "Wave breaking"

1

Lemos, Carlos M. Wave Breaking. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84688-5.

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Shute, Nevil. The breaking wave. New York: Vintage Books, 2010.

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3

Balsillie, James H. Shore-breaking wave height transformation. Tallahassee: Florida Geological Survey, 2000.

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4

1941-, Curtin Dennis P., ed. Information technology: The breaking wave. Boston: Irwin/McGraw-Hill, 1998.

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Lemos, C. M. Wave breaking: A numerical study. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, 1992.

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Leeuwen, P. J. van. Low frequency wave generation due to breaking wind waves. [Delft]: Faculty of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology, 1992.

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Friedman, Jeff. The record-breaking heat wave: Poems. Kansas City, Mo: BkMk Press, 1986.

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8

1945-, Banner M. L., Grimshaw R y International Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics., eds. Breaking waves: IUTAM symposium, Sydney, Australia, 1991. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, 1992.

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Banner, Michael L. Breaking Waves: IUTAM Symposium Sydney, Australia 1991. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992.

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1931-, Toba Y., Mitsuyasu Hisashi 1929-, IOC/SCOR Committee on Climatic Changes and the Ocean., WMO/ICSU Joint Scientific Committee. y Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface (1984 : Tohoku University), eds. The Ocean surface: Wave breaking, turbulent mixing, and radio probing. Dordrecht [Netherlands]: Reidel, 1985.

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Capítulos de libros sobre el tema "Wave breaking"

1

Kjeldsen, Søren Peter. "Breaking Waves". En Water Wave Kinematics, 453–73. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands, 1990. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_29.

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Watanabe, Yasunori. "Breaking Wave Dynamics". En Dynamics of Water Surface Flows and Waves, 223–60. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/9781003140160-8.

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Katsaros, Kristina B. y Serhad S. Ataktürk. "Dependence of Wave-Breaking Statistics on Wind Stress and Wave Development". En Breaking Waves, 119–32. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_9.

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Cavaleri, L. y P. Lionello. "Possible Mechanisms for Wave Breaking". En Breaking Waves, 175–79. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_16.

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Peregrine, D. H. "Mechanisms of Water-Wave Breaking". En Breaking Waves, 39–53. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_3.

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Zakharov, V. E. "Inverse and Direct Cascade in the Wind-Driven Surface Wave Turbulence and Wave-Breaking". En Breaking Waves, 69–91. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_5.

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Peregrine, D. H. "Computations of Breaking Waves". En Water Wave Kinematics, 475–90. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands, 1990. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_30.

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Su, Ming-Yang y John Cartmill. "Breaking Wave Statistics Obtained During ‘Swade’". En Breaking Waves, 161–64. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_14.

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Ebuchi, N., H. Kawamura y Y. Toba. "Microwave Backscattering from Laboratory Wind-Wave Surfaces and its Relation to Wave Breaking with Bubble Entrainment". En Breaking Waves, 103–8. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_7.

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Kitaigorodskii, Sergei A. "The Dissipation Subrange of Wind Wave Spectra". En Breaking Waves, 199–206. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_20.

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Actas de conferencias sobre el tema "Wave breaking"

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Kuznetsov, Sergey, Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, Yana Saprykina, Boris Divinskiy y Boris Divinskiy. "PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA". En Managing risks to coastal regions and communities in a changing world. Academus Publishing, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.31519/conferencearticle_5b1b94019210f7.30842240.

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On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.
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Kuznetsov, Sergey, Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, Yana Saprykina, Boris Divinskiy y Boris Divinskiy. "PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA". En Managing risks to coastal regions and communities in a changing world. Academus Publishing, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.21610/conferencearticle_58b4315241f49.

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On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.
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Castello-Lurbe, David. "Tunable dispersive waves from wave breaking". En Bragg Gratings, Photosensitivity and Poling in Glass Waveguides and Materials. Washington, D.C.: Optica Publishing Group, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1364/bgppm.2022.jtu2a.18.

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Fullerton, Anne M., Thomas C. Fu y Edward S. Ammeen. "Distribution of Wave Impact Forces From Breaking and Non-Breaking Waves". En ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2009-79978.

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Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are highly complex and may involve wave breaking, making these changes difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of forces and pressures measured from breaking and non-breaking waves, with no clear trend between wave characteristics and the localized forces and pressures that they generate. In 2008, a canonical breaking wave impact data set was obtained at the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division, by measuring the distribution of impact pressures of incident non-breaking and breaking waves on one face of a cube. The effects of wave height, wavelength, face orientation, face angle, and submergence depth were investigated. A limited number of runs were made at low forward speeds, ranging from about 0.5 to 2 knots (0.26 to 1.03 m/s). The measurement cube was outfitted with a removable instrumented plate measuring 1 ft2 (0.09 m2), and the wave heights tested ranged from 8–14 inches (20.3 to 35.6 cm). The instrumented plate had 9 slam panels of varying sizes made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and 11 pressure gages; this data was collected at 5 kHz to capture the dynamic response of the gages and panels and fully resolve the shapes of the impacts. A Kistler gage was used to measure the total force averaged over the cube face. A bottom mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was used to obtain measurements of velocity through the water column to provide incoming velocity boundary conditions. A Light Detecting and Ranging (LiDAR) system was also used above the basin to obtain a surface mapping of the free surface over a distance of approximately 15 feet (4.6 m). Additional point measurements of the free surface were made using acoustic distance sensors. Standard and high-speed video cameras were used to capture a qualitative assessment of the impacts. Impact loads on the plate tend to increase with wave height, as well as with plate inclination toward incoming waves. Further trends of the pressures and forces with wave characteristics, cube orientation, draft and face angle are investigated and presented in this paper, and are also compared with previous test results.
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Thornton, E. B., C. S. Wu y R. T. Guza. "Breaking Wave Design Criteria". En 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1985. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872624382.003.

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Odzer, Michael y Kristina Francke. "Acoustic Study of Wave-Breaking to Enhance the Understanding of Wave Physics". En ASME 2020 39th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2020-19352.

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Abstract The sound of waves breaking on shore, or against an obstruction or jetty, is an immediately recognizable sound pattern which could potentially be employed by a sensor system to identify obstructions. If frequency patterns produced by breaking waves can be reproduced and mapped in a laboratory setting, a foundational understanding of the physics behind this process could be established, which could then be employed in sensor development for navigation. This study explores whether wave-breaking frequencies correlate with the physics behind the collapsing of the wave, and whether frequencies of breaking waves recorded in a laboratory tank will follow the same pattern as frequencies produced by ocean waves breaking on a beach. An artificial “beach” was engineered to replicate breaking waves inside a laboratory wave tank. Video and audio recordings of waves breaking in the tank were obtained, and audio of ocean waves breaking on the shoreline was recorded. The audio data was analysed in frequency charts. The video data was evaluated to correlate bubble sizes to frequencies produced by the waves. The results supported the hypothesis that frequencies produced by breaking waves in the wave tank followed the same pattern as those produced by ocean waves. Analysis utilizing a solution to the Rayleigh-Plesset equation showed that the bubble sizes produced by breaking waves were inversely related to the pattern of frequencies. This pattern can be reproduced in a controlled laboratory environment and extrapolated for use in developing navigational sensors for potential applications in marine navigation such as for use with autonomous ocean vehicles.
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Iwata, Koichiro, Koji Kawasaki y Do-Sam Kim. "Breaking Limit, Breaking and Post-Breaking Wave Deformation Due to Submerged Structures". En 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784402429.181.

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Lader, Pål F., Dag Myrhaug y Bjo/rnar Pettersen. "Wave Crest Kinematics of Deep Water Breaking Waves". En 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE). Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40549(276)28.

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Kawata, Yoshiaki. "Wave Breaking under Storm Condition". En 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784400890.026.

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Holthuijsen, L. H. y N. Booij. "EXPERIMENTAL WAVE BREAKING IN SWAN". En Proceedings of the 30th International Conference. World Scientific Publishing Company, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812709554_0034.

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Informes sobre el tema "Wave breaking"

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Smith, Jane M. Nearshore Wave Breaking and Decay. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, julio de 1993. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada268810.

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Fullerton, Anne M., Ann Marie Powers, Don C. Walker y Susan Brewton. The Distribution of Breaking and Non-Breaking Wave Impact Forces. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, marzo de 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada495574.

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Lippmann, Thomas C. Wave Breaking and Wave Driven Flow in the Nearshore. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, septiembre de 2000. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada609992.

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Veeramony, Jayaram y Ib A. Svendsen. Propagation and Breaking of Wave Groups. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, febrero de 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada295225.

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Farmer, David M. y Johannes Gemmrich. Wave Breaking and Near-Surface Turbulence. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, septiembre de 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada626448.

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Lippmann, Thomas C. Wave Breaking, Infragravity Waves, and Sediment Transport in the Nearshore. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, septiembre de 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada629637.

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Lippmann, Thomas C. Wave Breaking and Dissipation in the Nearshore. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, septiembre de 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada628436.

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Shen, Lian. Multiscale Deterministic Wave Modeling with Wind Input and Wave Breaking Dissipation. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, septiembre de 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada612024.

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Shen, Liam. Multiscale Deterministic Wave Modeling with Wind Input and Wave Breaking Dissipation. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, septiembre de 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada573209.

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Zakharov, V. E. Modeling Swell, High Frequency Spreading and Wave Breaking. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, septiembre de 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada629906.

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