Tesis sobre el tema "Nonlinear water waves"
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Baumstein, Anatoly I. Saffman P. G. Saffman P. G. "Nonlinear water waves with shear /". Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1997. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-01042008-093737.
Texto completoBird, Charlotte C. "Nonlinear interactions of water waves, wave groups and beaches". Thesis, University of Bristol, 1999. http://hdl.handle.net/1983/c8fedc4e-9c73-4791-b1d8-b4ff14646025.
Texto completoQu, Wendong Wu Theodore Y. T. "Studies on nonlinear dispersive water waves /". Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 2000. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-08152006-140314.
Texto completoSmith, Susan Frances. "Large transient waves in shallow water". Thesis, Imperial College London, 1999. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.313296.
Texto completo陳健行 y Kin-hang Chan. "Computational studies of forced, nonlinear waves in shallow water". Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2001. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B31224003.
Texto completoOhl, Clifford Owen Groome. "Free surface disturbances and nonlinear runup around offshore structures". Thesis, University of Oxford, 2000. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:320ff8da-c225-40da-a7dd-d6cf55c97b51.
Texto completoGrataloup, Géraldine Léonie 1979. "Localization of nonlinear water waves over a random bottom". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2003. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/16918.
Texto completoIncludes bibliographical references (p. 87-90).
This electronic version was submitted by the student author. The certified thesis is available in the Institute Archives and Special Collections.
by Géraldine Léonie Grataloup.
S.M.
Mathew, Joseph. "Nonlinear three-dimensional waves on water of varying depth". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1990. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/14065.
Texto completoLiang, Junhong. "Linear and nonlinear analysis of shallow mixing layers /". View abstract or full-text, 2006. http://library.ust.hk/cgi/db/thesis.pl?CIVL%202006%20LIANG.
Texto completoVilleneuve, Marc. "Nonlinear, dispersive, shallow-water waves developed by a moving bed". Thesis, McGill University, 1989. http://digitool.Library.McGill.CA:80/R/?func=dbin-jump-full&object_id=55658.
Texto completoXü, Hongbo. "Numerical study of fully nonlinear water waves in three dimensions". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1992. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/13067.
Texto completoTitle as it appears in the M.I.T. Graduate List, Feb. 1992: Numerical simulations of fully-nonlinear water waves in three dimensions.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves 203-211).
by Hongbo Xü.
Sc.D.
Yang, Jianke. "Some nonlinear equations arising in the theory of water waves". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1994. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/12051.
Texto completoMoreira, Roger Matsumoto. "Nonlinear interactions between water waves, free surface flows and singularities". Thesis, University of Bristol, 2001. http://hdl.handle.net/1983/48c03019-9f5d-4aae-83b5-d9ea23c2f6ec.
Texto completoLi, Yile 1973. "Linear and nonlinear resonance of water waves near periodic structures". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/38266.
Texto completoIncludes bibliographical references (p. 395-401).
In the first part of this thesis, we present a nonlinear theory for the excitation of trapped wave around a circular cylinder mounted at the center of a channel. It is well-known that near an infinite linear array of periodically spaced cylinders trapped waves of certain eigen-frequencies can exist. If there are only a finite number of cylinders in an infinite sea, trapping is imperfect. Simple harmonic incident waves can excite a nearly trapped wave at one of the eigen-frequencies through a linear mechanism. However the maximum amplification ratio increases monotonically with the number of the cylinders, hence the solution is singular in the limit of infinitely many cylinders. A nonlinear theory is developed for the trapped waves excited subharmonically by an incident wave of twice the eigen-frequency. The effects of geometrical parameters on the initial growth of resonance and the final amplification are studied in detail. The nonlinear theory is further extend to random incident waves with a narrow spectrum centered near twice the natural frequency of the trapped wave. The effects of detuning and bandwidth of the spectrum are examined. In the second part of the thesis, we study the Bragg resonance of surface water waves by (i) a line of periodic circular cylinders in a long channel, and (ii) a two-dimensional periodic array of cylinders.
(cont.) For case (i), strong reflection takes place in a channel when the cylinder spacing is one-half that of the incident waves. Solutions for a large but finite number of cylinders in a channel are examined and compared with finite element results. For case (ii) we study an array of cylinders extending in both horizontal directions toward infinity, the Bragg resonance condition is found to be the same as that in the physics of solid state and photonic crystals, and can be determined by Ewald construction. Envelope equations of Klein-Gordon type for resonated waves are derived for multiple resonated waves. For a wide strip of cylinders, analytical solutions of both two-wave and three-wave resonance are discussed in detail. We also extend the theory to include second-order nonlinear effects of the free surface. For a train of periodically modulated incident waves scattered by an one-dimensional line of cylinders, free long waves are found to exist and propagate faster than the set-down long wave bound to the short wave envelopes. At Bragg resonance, the short waves are reflected by the array but the induced free long wave can pass through it. For a train of periodically modulated waves scattered by a finite strip of cylinders, the free long waves can propagate away from the strip or be trapped near the strip depending on the angle of incidence.
by Yile Li.
Ph.D.
Lai, Wing-chiu Derek. "The propagation of nonlinear waves in layered and stratified fluids /". Hong Kong : University of Hong Kong, 2001. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk:8888/cgi-bin/hkuto%5Ftoc%5Fpdf?B23234398.
Texto completoZhao, Zhongxiang. "A study of nonlinear internal waves in the northeastern South China Sea". Access to citation, abstract and download form provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company; downloadable PDF file 11.38Mb, 181 p, 2005. http://wwwlib.umi.com/dissertations/fullcit/3157312.
Texto completoKillen, Sean Martin. "Propagation of nonlinear water waves over variable depth in cylindrical geometry". Thesis, University of Newcastle Upon Tyne, 2000. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.366639.
Texto completoTeng, Michelle Hsiao Tsing Wu Theodore Y. T. "Forced emissions of nonlinear water waves in channels of arbitrary shape /". Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1990. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-06132005-111317.
Texto completoLai, Wing-chiu Derek y 黎永釗. "The propagation of nonlinear waves in layered and stratified fluids". Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2001. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B29750441.
Texto completoPanupintu, Wantana. "The propagation of nonlinear water waves over variable depth with shear flow". Thesis, University of Newcastle Upon Tyne, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.246653.
Texto completoLi, Yile 1973. "Nonlinear shallow water three-dimensional solitary waves generated by high speed vessels". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2001. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/91907.
Texto completoKomarova, Natalia 1971. "Essays on nonlinear waves: Patterns under water; pulse propagation through random media". Diss., The University of Arizona, 1998. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/282787.
Texto completoKim, Won-Gyu 1962. "A Study of Nonlinear Dynamics in an Internal Water Wave Field in a Deep Ocean". Thesis, University of North Texas, 1996. https://digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc278092/.
Texto completoHoseini, Sayed Mohammad. "Solitary wave interaction and evolution". Access electronically, 2007. http://www.library.uow.edu.au/adt-NWU/public/adt-NWU20080221.110619/index.html.
Texto completoKim, Sungeun 1963. "Nonlinear interaction of water waves with three-dimensional floating bodies in a current". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1998. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/10082.
Texto completoSander, Johannes. "Weakly nonlinear unidirectional shallow water waves generated by a moving boundary : a historical essay : experiments and computations /". Zürich, 1990. http://e-collection.ethbib.ethz.ch/show?type=diss&nr=9156.
Texto completoBrühl, Markus [Verfasser] y Hocine [Akademischer Betreuer] Oumeraci. "Direct and inverse nonlinear Fourier transform based on the Korteweg-deVries equation (KdV-NLFT) - A spectral analysis of nonlinear surface waves in shallow water / Markus Brühl ; Betreuer: Hocine Oumeraci". Braunschweig : Technische Universität Braunschweig, 2014. http://d-nb.info/1175820547/34.
Texto completoBocchi, Edoardo. "Compressible-incompressible transitions in fluid mechanics : waves-structures interaction and rotating fluids". Thesis, Bordeaux, 2019. http://www.theses.fr/2019BORD0279/document.
Texto completoThis manuscript deals with compressible-incompressible transitions arising in partial differential equations of fluid mechanics. We investigate two problems: floating structures and rotating fluids. In the first problem, the introduction of a floating object into water waves enforces a constraint on the fluid and the governing equations turn out to have a compressible-incompressible structure. In the second problem, the motion of geophysical compressible fluids is affected by the Earth's rotation and the study of the high rotation limit shows that the velocity vector field tends to be horizontal and with an incompressibility constraint.Floating structures are a particular example of fluid-structure interaction, in which a partially immersed solid is floating at the fluid surface. This mathematical problem models the motion of wave energy converters in sea water. In particular, we focus on heaving buoys, usually implemented in the near-shore zone, where the shallow water asymptotic models describe accurately the motion of waves. We study the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water equations in the axisymmetric configuration in the presence of a floating object with vertical side-walls moving only vertically. The assumptions on the solid permit to avoid the free boundary problem associated with the moving contact line between the air, the water and the solid. Hence, in the domain exterior to the solid the fluid equations can be written as an hyperbolic quasilinear initial boundary value problem. This couples with a nonlinear second order ODE derived from Newton's law for the free solid motion. Local in time well-posedness of the coupled system is shown provided some compatibility conditions are satisfied by the initial data in order to generate smooth solutions.Afterwards, we address a particular configuration of this fluid-structure interaction: the return to equilibrium. It consists in releasing a partially immersed solid body into a fluid initially at rest and letting it evolve towards its equilibrium position. A different hydrodynamical model is used. In the exterior domain the equations are linearized but the nonlinear effects are taken into account under the solid. The equation for the solid motion becomes a nonlinear second order integro-differential equation which rigorously justifies the Cummins equation, assumed by engineers to govern the motion of floating objects. Moreover, the equation derived improves the linear approach of Cummins by taking into account the nonlinear effects. The global existence and uniqueness of the solution is shown for small data using the conservation of the energy of the fluid-structure system.In the second part of the manuscript, highly rotating fluids are studied. This mathematical problem models the motion of geophysical flows at large scales affected by the Earth's rotation, such as massive oceanic and atmospheric currents. The motion is also influenced by the gravity, which causes a stratification of the density in compressible fluids. The rotation generates anisotropy in viscous flows and the vertical turbulent viscosity tends to zero in the high rotation limit. Our interest lies in this singular limit problem taking into account gravitational and compressible effects. We study the compressible anisotropic Navier-Stokes-Coriolis equations with gravitational force in the horizontal infinite slab with no-slip boundary condition. Both this condition and the Coriolis force cause the apparition of Ekman layers near the boundary. They are taken into account in the analysis by adding corrector terms which decay in the interior of the domain. In this work well-prepared initial data are considered. A stability result of global weak solutions is shown for power-type pressure laws. The limit dynamics is described by a two-dimensional viscous quasi-geostrophic equation with a damping term that accounts for the boundary layers
Sutherland, James. "The dynamics of nonlinear water wave groups". Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 1992. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/13045.
Texto completoAbdolmaleki, Kourosh. "Modelling of wave impact on offshore structures". University of Western Australia. School of Mechanical Engineering, 2007. http://theses.library.uwa.edu.au/adt-WU2008.0055.
Texto completoAbreu, Manuel A. "Nonlinear transformation of directional wave spectra in shallow water". Thesis, Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1991. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/28400.
Texto completoDe, Azevedo Jose Paulo Soares. "Application of the boundary element method to two-dimensional nonlinear gravity wave problems". Thesis, University of Southampton, 1991. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.292283.
Texto completoSchuh, K., P. Rosenow, M. Kolesik, E. M. Wright, S. W. Koch y J. V. Moloney. "Nonlinear rovibrational polarization response of water vapor to ultrashort long-wave infrared pulses". AMER PHYSICAL SOC, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/625977.
Texto completoGodey, Cyril. "Bifurcations locales et instabilités dans des modèles issus de l'optique et de la mécanique des fluides". Thesis, Bourgogne Franche-Comté, 2017. http://www.theses.fr/2017UBFCD008/document.
Texto completoIn this thesis we present several contributions to qualitative study of solutions of nonlinear partial differential equations in optics and fluid mechanics models. More precisely, we focus on the existence of solutions and their stability properties. In Chapter 1, we study the Lugiato-lefever equation, which is a variant of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation arising in sereval contexts in nonlinear optics. Using tools from bifurcation and normal forms theory, we perfom a systematic analysis of stationary solutions of this equation and prove the existence of periodic and localized solutions. In Chapter 2, we present a simple criterion for linear instability of nonlinear waves. We then apply this result to the Lugiato-Lefever equation, to the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili-I equation and the Davey-Stewartson equations. These last two equations are model equations arising in fluid mechanics. In Chapter 3, we prove a criterion for linear instability of periodic solutions with small amplitude, with respect to certain quasiperiodic perturbations. This result is then applied to the Lugiato-Lefever equation
Zhou, Zhengquan. "A theory and analysis of planing catamarans in calm and rough water". ScholarWorks@UNO, 2003. http://louisdl.louislibraries.org/u?/NOD,45.
Texto completoTitle from electronic submission form. "A dissertation ... in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Engineering and Applied Science"--Dissertation t.p. Vita. Includes bibliographical references.
Wang, Yunli. "Etude expérimentale et numérique des oscillations hydrodynamiques en milieux poreux partiellement saturés". Thesis, Toulouse, INPT, 2010. http://www.theses.fr/2010INPT0127/document.
Texto completoThis thesis aims at investigating experimentally, analytically and numerically, the consequences of hydrodynamic variations and oscillations with high temporal variability in partially saturated porous media. The problems investigated in this work involve “free surfaces” both outside and inside the porous media, the free surface being defined as the “atmospheric” water pressure isosurface (Pwater = Patm). The laboratory experiments studied in this work are, respectively: Lateral imbibition in a dry sand box with significant capillary effects; Transmission of oscillations of the free surface through a vertical sand box placed in a small wave canal (IMFT, Toulouse); Dynamics of free surface oscillations and wave propagation in a large wave canal (HYDRALAB, Barcelona), partially covered with sand, with measurements of both open water and groundwater levels, and of sand topography (erosion / deposition). For theoretical studies, we have developed linearized analytical solutions. Here is a sample problem that was treated analytically in this work: The linearized equation of Dupuit-Boussinesq (DB) for transient free surface flow, assuming horizontal flow and instantaneous wetting/drainage of the unsaturated zone: forced oscillations, wave transmission and dissipation through a rectangular sandbox. We also developed a weakly nonlinear solution of the Dupuit-Boussinesq equation to study the sudden imbibition (temporal monitoring of the wetting front). We have studied the different types of transient flow problems related to the experiments cited above by numerical simulation. In particular, we have simulated unsaturated or partially saturated transient flows in vertical cross-section, using a computer code (BIGFLOW 3D) which solves a generalized version of Richards’ equation. Thus, using the Richards / BIGFLOW 3D model, we have studied numerically the experiment of unsaturated imbibition in a dry sand (IMFT sandbox), and then, with the same model, we have also studied the partially saturated wave propagation experiment in the large Barcelona wave canal (HYDRALAB laboratory), focusing on the sloping sandy beach, with coupling between the micro-porous zone (sand) and the “macro-porous” zone (open water). To interpret the results of the latter experiment and compare them to simulations, we use several methods of signal analyzis and signal processing, such as: Fourier analysis, discrete multi-resolution wavelets (Daubechies), auto and cross-correlation functions. These methods are combined with pre-filtering methods to estimate trends and residuals (moving averages; discrete wavelet analyses). This signal analyzis has allowed us to interpret and quantify water propagation phenomena through a sandy beach. To sum up, different modeling approaches, combined with model calibration procedures, were applied to transient nonlinear coupled flow problems. These approaches have allowed us to reproduce globally the water content distributions and water level propagation in the different configurations studied in this work
Baumstein, Anatoly I. "Nonlinear water waves with shear". Thesis, 1997. https://thesis.library.caltech.edu/29/1/Baumstein_ai_1997.pdf.
Texto completoVarious aspects of nonlinear inviscid gravity waves in the presence of shear in the air and water are investigated. The shear, which appears due to the presence of wind in the air and current in the water, is modeled by a piecewise linear velocity profile.
The interaction of short and long gravity waves is studied numerically, using spectral methods, and analytically, using perturbation methods. Special attention is paid to the verification of observations and experimental results. It is confirmed that finite amplitude waves propagating in the same direction as the wind or current are more stable with respect to superharmonic infinitesimal perturbations than the waves moving against the wind or current.
Infinitesimal perturbations in the form of side bands are also investigated both numerically and analytically. The nonlinear cubic Schrodinger equation for the wave envelope of a slowly varying wave train is derived. It is shown that depending on the direction of propagation (along or against the shear) of the finite amplitude waves, the effect of the shear on the stability is substantially different. In most cases, however, the shear strength increase first enhances the instability, but later suppresses it.
Three-wave interactions of gravity waves with shear in the water are considered. The interaction equations are derived with the help of two different perturbation approaches. The question of stability is addressed for both resonant and near-resonant interactions. The regions of explosive and "pump-wave" instability are identified for various types of three-wave interactions.
A new type of steady two-dimensional gravity waves with water shear is computed numerically. These waves appear at relatively low amplitudes and lack symmetry with respect to any crest or trough. A boundary integral formulation is used to obtain a one-parameter family of non-symmetric solutions through a symmetry-breaking bifurcation.
Qu, Wendong. "Studies on Nonlinear Dispersive Water Waves". Thesis, 2000. https://thesis.library.caltech.edu/3134/1/Qu_w_2000.pdf.
Texto completoLiu, Chin-Yung y 劉晉湧. "Analysis for the evolution of wave front in deep-water nonlinear waves". Thesis, 2007. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/67926079437895787469.
Texto completo國立成功大學
水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
95
We observe the front wave change from the quiet water state to steady wave motion state, when the wave train which are created by wave maker are delivered to the lower reaches of water flume. There is the non-linear and unstable wave between quiet water state and steady state. We call it wave front of wave train. The phenomenon of wave front shows the wave modulation, and finally becomes The phenomenon of wave group looking like real sea level. Due to understanding the characteristic of wave front, we can continue to discuss the wave group at field ocean or the characteristic of stormy waves which is created from quiet water state. We will use the experimental data of non-linear wave front to illustrate the evolution of it on the research. The experiments were carried out in a super wave flume whose length is 300m, and width is 5m, and height is 5.2m at Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory in National Cheng-Kung University. We analyse the development of non-linear wave front that are derived from two typical non-linear wave train. The two typical non-linear wave train are regular wave and Bichromatic waves. Because the analysis of used Fourier analysis only can show the change in whole frequency, we decide to use wavelet analysis that have analytical ability of frequency and time domain, and also have good ability to analyse Bichromatic waves. We discuss the development of wave front that are derived from deep-water non-linear wave train by using it. From the result of the wavelet analysis, both regular wave and Bichromatic wave clearly show the change of peak frequency at any time. In wavelet spectrum, the peak frequency of high amplitude is taller than steady section. We also discuss the change of wave steepness and phase velocity. Contrasted to wavelet spectrum, we find that the power of slow phase velocity become more concentrated. After wave front separate from leading wave, the frequency of phase velocity and the wave's steepness of the biggest wave also turn into stable value.
Wei, Ge. "Simulation of water waves by Boussinesq models". 1997. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/40868412.html.
Texto completoChoi, Jongho. "Long nonlinear water waves over a periodic bottom topography". 2000. http://www.library.wisc.edu/databases/connect/dissertations.html.
Texto completoTeng, Michelle Hsiao Tsing. "Forced emissions of nonlinear water waves in channels of arbitrary shape". Thesis, 1990. https://thesis.library.caltech.edu/2569/1/Teng_mht_1990.pdf.
Texto completoMARINO, ENZO. "An integrated nonlinear wind-waves model for offshorewind turbines". Doctoral thesis, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/2158/600464.
Texto completoHardjanto, Fauzi Adi. "A computational procedure for three-dimensional simulation of nonlinear gravity wave propagation and response of floating structures". 2002. http://wwwlib.umi.com/cr/utexas/fullcit?p3099461.
Texto completoTung, Chih Ming y 董志明. "Numerical Simulation on the Transformation of Nonlinear Water Waves over Varying Bottoms". Thesis, 1995. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/17412710652063535601.
Texto completoHuang, Jing-Guang y 黃景光. "Numerical Studies on the Transformation and Mean Water Level Variation of Nonlinear Waves". Thesis, 2002. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/hs453w.
Texto completo國立成功大學
水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
90
The Fourier approximation method which depends on the conversation of energy flux and momentum flux with considering of energy loss due to bottom friction and wave breaking regardless of reflection in the shallows is applied to solving the problem of wave transformation on general slope including waves shoaling, breaking and attenuation after breaking as well as wave set-up and set-down during the wave advancing towards the coast. In comparison with the present results as well as experimental data accomplished by the previous method, very good coincidence is obtained. This comparison confirms that present method that solved the waves transformation of the nonlinear waves is applicable. The numerical results that wavelength, wave height, wave energy, energy transmitted velocity, radiation stress and mean water level variation are related to the steepness of deep sea of incident wave and slopes of bottoms, however the influence of slopes on the wavelength, wave height and energy transmitted velocity can be neglected are found. The greater wave steepness of deep sea and slopes are, the faster wave height increases and easier wave breaks. After wave breaks, wave height and set-up are in relation with the wave steepness of deep sea and slopes, that is, the greater wave steepness of deep sea and milder slopes result in the smaller wave height at same water depth and rapider rate of set-up .The computational results of characteristics of breaking waves and attenuation after breaking are compared with experiment data and various available empirical formulas and agreement is found to be good. Finally, the coefficient of shoaling, mean water level variation and attenuation of wave height after breaking will be draw a diagram for designing of engineering.
Sagers, Jason Derek. "Predicting acoustic intensity fluctuations induced by nonlinear internal waves in a shallow water waveguide". Thesis, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/2152/ETD-UT-2012-08-6025.
Texto completotext
Ussembayev, Nail. "Nonlinear Wave Motion in Viscoelasticity and Free Surface Flows". Diss., 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10754/664399.
Texto completoNimmala, Seshu B. "An efficient high-performance computing based three-dimensional numerical wave basin model for the design of fluid-structure interaction experiments". Thesis, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/1957/18829.
Texto completoGraduation date: 2011
Chien, Shao-Chin y 簡紹欽. "Numerical modeling of nonlinear waves in regional coastal waters". Thesis, 1998. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/82865861665453872595.
Texto completo國立臺灣大學
土木工程學系
86
Numerical modeling of nonlinear waves in regional coastal waters Shao-Chin Chien Abstract This research is to study the wave deformation under nonlinear effects, and to develop a numerical model of nonlinear waves to describe the wave propagation from deep seas to shallow waters. Based on the results of Wu (1996), a two-dimensional numerical model of nonlinear waves is developed by using finite element method. It can compute the wave field in an irregular region with varying depths. Due to the fact of using perturbation methods, present model provides both linear and nonlinear solutions. To extend applicability of this model, a general sparse method to minimize the computer storage requirement is integrated. It is found that with same computer resource, this model can use more meshes to calculate more precise solutions. Comparisons of present numerical results with experimental data are performed ( Beji & Battjes, 1994; Kittitanasuan, Goda & Shiobara, 1993 ). In weakly nonlinear effects, this model can describe the spatial wave profile and time series wave profile accurately. Computing the wave field around a circular island with paraboloid-varied depths, nonlinear motions of waves with reflection, diffraction and refraction are studied.