Tesis: "Fabric as a medium"

1

Mackenzie, Jewel y n/a. "The Fabric of Art: Investigating the Relationships of Power Between Fabric & Fine Art Through Frank Stella's 'Black Paintings' (1958-1960)". Griffith University. Queensland College of Art, 2005. http://www4.gu.edu.au:8080/adt-root/public/adt-QGU20060802.144424.

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There are two inter-related parts to the hypothesis explored in this research. The first is that it is significant to employ fabric as a medium in a fine art context, and the second aspect argues that female artists who choose fabric as their medium should be recognised as 'artists' rather than as crafts practitioners. I propose that in choosing fabric as a medium and sewing as my method of making art, I am working within the framework of contemporary fine art practice. In his essay 'To Cut is to Think' Germano Celant succinctly described the 'cut' made by artists who choose cutting as their process: The cut of the scissor is like the click of a camera or the whirr of a movie camera, like a stroke of the pencil or paintbrush: all these acts decisively isolate a form or representation, marking a surface that generates a reality. The cut puts an end to the traditional representation of the image, dissolving it and then restoring it as a testimony to the artist's vision and understanding. In this light, the cut confers meaning, and its use unites artists, photographers, designers and tailors, who cut their visions from the magma of their materials, whether these be colour or bronze, fabric or film, metal or wool, wood or canvas (1996, p. 31). My own use of the cut, as the bespoke tailor, reinterpreted fabric as paint and utilized pinstriped fabric as a visual metaphor for relationships of power, pink satin as a symbol of the female inclusion and Frank Stella's Black Paintings as a tool to position my work. Therefore, I would claim that I am working towards a conceptual repositioning of fabric as a medium in fine art.

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2

Mackenzie, Jewel. "The Fabric of Art: Investigating the Relationships of Power Between Fabric & Fine Art Through Frank Stella's 'Black Paintings' (1958-1960)". Thesis, Griffith University, 2005. http://hdl.handle.net/10072/365967.

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There are two inter-related parts to the hypothesis explored in this research. The first is that it is significant to employ fabric as a medium in a fine art context, and the second aspect argues that female artists who choose fabric as their medium should be recognised as 'artists' rather than as crafts practitioners. I propose that in choosing fabric as a medium and sewing as my method of making art, I am working within the framework of contemporary fine art practice. In his essay 'To Cut is to Think' Germano Celant succinctly described the 'cut' made by artists who choose cutting as their process: The cut of the scissor is like the click of a camera or the whirr of a movie camera, like a stroke of the pencil or paintbrush: all these acts decisively isolate a form or representation, marking a surface that generates a reality. The cut puts an end to the traditional representation of the image, dissolving it and then restoring it as a testimony to the artist's vision and understanding. In this light, the cut confers meaning, and its use unites artists, photographers, designers and tailors, who cut their visions from the magma of their materials, whether these be colour or bronze, fabric or film, metal or wool, wood or canvas (1996, p. 31). My own use of the cut, as the bespoke tailor, reinterpreted fabric as paint and utilized pinstriped fabric as a visual metaphor for relationships of power, pink satin as a symbol of the female inclusion and Frank Stella's Black Paintings as a tool to position my work. Therefore, I would claim that I am working towards a conceptual repositioning of fabric as a medium in fine art.
Thesis (Professional Doctorate)
Doctor of Visual Arts (DVA)
Queensland College of Art
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3

Majcen, Natasa. "The development of novel smart wound dressings based on colloidal microgels and cotton fabric". Thesis, University of Greenwich, 2008. http://gala.gre.ac.uk/8400/.

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A series of microgels have been prepared by a surfactant free emulsion polymerisation based on an N-isopropylacrylamide (NIPAM) monomer. Poly(NIPAM) is a thermo sensitive polymer which undergoes a conformational transition close to the human skin temperature. Poly(NIPAM) was co-polymerized with hydrophobic butyl acrylate (BA) to provide a more favourable environment for drug molecules to partition into within the particle. A second co-monomer, acrylic acid (AA) was used to prepare pH/temperature sensitive microgels. The coupling reactions between microgels and cotton cellulose are only feasible if they both have appropriate functionalities. For microgels, this was achieved by using different initiators which introduce different functional groups on the particle surfaces and different surface changes. Cotton samples were successfully modified by carboxymethylation, periodate oxidation, grafting of 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid, and chloroacetylation in order to target possible reactions with the terminal functional groups of the microgel particles. Microgels were attached to the cotton fabrics using different methods. The maximum weight increase of cotton samples due to the attached microgels was 23.51 ± 0.29% (w/w). Drug loading and drug release were studied for free (unattached) microgels and novel wound dressings. Methyl paraben (MP) was used as a model drug compound. The results of MP release from free microgels show no significant influence of surface charge on MP release. However, BA-containing microgel particles release less MP than 100% poly(NIPAM) microgels due to hydrophobic interactions between the MP and the BA. Temperature-sensitive dressings release up to 45% more MP at 40°C than at 30°C. The drug release for pH-sensitive dressings was up to 24% higher at pH 5 than at pH 8. This demonstrates that the novel dressings can be classed as “smart” materials as they can respond to subtle changes in simulated wound fluid temperature and pH.

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4

Goshi, Sudheer. "Digital Fabric". PDXScholar, 2012. https://pdxscholar.library.pdx.edu/open_access_etds/115.

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Continuing advances with VLSI have enabled engineers to build high performance computer systems to solve complex problems. The real-world problems and tasks like pattern recognition, speech recognition, etc. still remain elusive to the most advanced computer systems today. Many advances in the science of computer design and technology are coming together to enable the creation of the next-generation computing machines to solve real-world problems, which the human brain does with ease. One such engineering advance is the field of neuromorphic engineering, which tries to establish closer links to biology and help us investigate the problem of designing better computing machines. A chip built with the principles of neuromorphic engineering is called as neuromorphic chip. Neuromorphic chip aims to solve real-world problems. As the complexity of the problem increases, the computation capability of these chips can become a limitation. In order to improve the performance and accomplish a complex task in the real-world, many such chips need to be integrated into a system. Hence, efficiency of such a system depends on effective inter-chip communication. Here, the work presented aims at building a message-passing network (Digital Fabric) simulator, that integrates many such chips. Each chip represents a binary event-based unit called spiking analog cortical module. The inter-chip communication protocol employed here is called as Address Event Representation. Here, the Digital Fabric is built in three revisions, with different architectures being considered in each revision. The complexity is increased at each iteration stage. The experiments performed in each revision test the performance of such configuration systems and results proves to lay a foundation for further studies. In the future, building a high level simulation model will assist in scaling and evaluating various network topologies.

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5

Bel, Patricia Damian. "Cotton quality - fibre to fabric: fibre properties relationships to fabric quality". University of Southern Queensland, Faculty of Engineering and Surveying, 2004. http://eprints.usq.edu.au/archive/00003193/.

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[Abstract]: The textile industry has a recurrent white speck nep problem in cotton. “White specks” are immature clusters of fibres that are not visible as defects until dyeing, after which they remain white on the surface of a darkly dyed fabric, or appear as non uniform streaks in the fabric. Both results render the fabric unsuitable for commercial fashion fabrics. The white speck potential of cotton is difficult to predict except in extremely immature cottons. Competitive synthetic fibres are uniform in length and strength and never have a maturity problem resulting in dye defects. They are much more predictable in the mill. As a result, cotton faces the risk of being replaced by synthetic fibres. Industry requires a method to predict fabric quality from cotton bale fibre properties to minimize this risk. This research addresses the problem of predicting white specks in dyed cotton fabrics. It is part of a large study, which is supported jointly by US and Australian agencies. The main objective is to predict fabric quality from bale fibre properties given controlled gin and mill processing. Gin and mill processing must be controlled so that field and varietal effects can be seen without the interaction of mechanical processing differences. This results in achieving other objectives, including the provision of baseline data for Australian varieties, ginning effects and comparison of ring and open-end spinning. Initially a reliable method for measuring white specks had to be found. Several systems have been evaluated and are reported here. The systems accuracy was compared using fabrics from the US Extreme Variety Study (EVS), which was grown specifically to have different levels of white specks. The fabrics made from the US (Leading Variety Study 1993 (LVS) and The American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) Cotton Variety Processing Trials, 2001) and the Australian (1998 & 1999) variety studies were analysed using AutoRate-2-03, the best of the image analysis systems studied. The final release of AutoRate (February 2003) was developed by Dr. Bugao Xu to measure white specks on dark fabrics in conjunction with this research. This final analysis of these studies results in white speck prediction equations from high-speed fibre measurement systems. This information should be immediately useful to as a tool to measure the effects of field and ginning practices on the levels of white specks without having to carry the research out to finished fabrics. Cotton breeders will be able to use the equations in the development of new varieties with low white speck potential, by eliminating varieties with high white speck potential early on. The research will continue on a much larger scale in the US and hopefully a WSP (White Speck Potential) value will be incorporated into the US Cotton Grading System.

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6

Huang, Lejian. "Determining micro- and macro- geometry of fabric and fabric reinforced composites". Diss., Kansas State University, 2013. http://hdl.handle.net/2097/16929.

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Doctor of Philosophy
Department of Mechanical and Nuclear Engineering
Youqi Wang
Textile composites are made from textile fabric and resin. Depending on the weaving pattern, composite reinforcements can be characterized into two groups: uniform fabric and near-net shape fabric. Uniform fabric can be treated as an assembly of its smallest repeating pattern also called a unit cell; the latter is a single component with complex structure. Due to advantages of cost savings and inherent toughness, near-net shape fabric has gained great success in composite industries, for application such as turbine blades. Mechanical properties of textile composites are mainly determined by the geometry of the composite reinforcements. The study of a composite needs a computational tool to link fabric micro- and macro-geometry with the textile weaving process and composite manufacturing process. A textile fabric consists of a number of yarns or tows, and each yarn is a bundle of fibers. In this research, a fiber-level approach known as the digital element approach (DEA) is adopted to model the micro- and macro-geometry of fabric and fabric reinforced composites. This approach determines fabric geometry based on textile weaving mechanics. A solver with a dynamic explicit algorithm is employed in the DEA. In modeling a uniform fabric, the topology of the fabric unit cell is first established based on the weaving pattern, followed by yarn discretization. An explicit algorithm with a periodic boundary condition is then employed during the simulation. After its detailed geometry is obtained, the unit cell is then assembled to yield a fabric micro-geometry. Fabric micro-geometry can be expressed at both fiber- and yarn-levels. In modeling a near-net shape fabric component, all theories used in simulating the uniform fabric are kept except the periodic boundary condition. Since simulating the entire component at the fiber-level requires a large amount of time and memory, parallel program is used during the simulation. In modeling a net-shape composite, a dynamic molding process is simulated. The near-net shape fabric is modeled using the DEA. Mold surfaces are modeled by standard meshes. Long vertical elements that only take compressive forces are proposed. Finally, micro- and macro-geometry of a fabric reinforced net-shape composite component is obtained.

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7

Miles, Joseph A. "Large fabric storage area networks fabric simulator development and preliminary analysis /". Laramie, Wyo. : University of Wyoming, 2008. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdweb?did=1798480901&sid=1&Fmt=2&clientId=18949&RQT=309&VName=PQD.

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8

Park, Sungmee. "Studies on effect of fiber properties and fabric structure on fabric hand". Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 1995. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/9499.

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9

Kerrigan, Judith. "An investigation into the engineering of fabric properties using fabric objective measurement techniques". Thesis, Nottingham Trent University, 2001. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.393745.

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Objective measurement techniques have been used since the 1930's to provide a more accurate method of gauging fabric quality than subjective hand evaluations. In addition to predicting subjective hand preferences, they also provide data on fabric development and ease of garment manufacture. The main techniques researched are the Kawabata Evaluation System and the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing. The KES has been used to evaluate suiting, women's dresses, knitted fabrics and nonwoven fabrics. Research with the FAST has been limited to mainly suiting with some shirting. This has left a large area of work to be explored; whether the FAST can be used to assess fabrics for a wider range of end-uses. In this thesis, the investigation focuses on women's dress fabrics, specifically weight reduced polyester fabrics. The FAST system was modified in order to accurately differentiate between these fabrics. The Cusick drape tester was also used and further investigations focussed on other methods of testing drape, including the Aldrich method and one developed by the author. Although early indications were that this new test was repeatable, reproducible and correlated well with the Cusick method, it required more engineering work than was possible in the scope of this thesis and therefore was not used for the empirical work. The KES equipment for tensile and shear was also used and comparison made between the results of previous studies and with results found from the FAST. Statistical analysis was used throughout to establish both the effect of the weight reduction process on the fabric and its relationship to the problems of ease of manufacture, distortion of garment measurements and garment appearance. The modifications made to the FAST procedure and apparatus proved valid during the analysis. The effect of the weight reduction process was to soften the fabric, reducing the drape coefficient and bending and shear rigidity results and increasing the weft extension results. The appearance data could not be statistically analysed but it seemed that for the garment silhouette chosen, low or no weight reduction was required. Equations were established that predicted ease of manufacture and correlation factors were found between actual and predicted grades ranging from 0.71- 0.87. Interestingly, one of the most powerful combinations was the basis data of weight and number of warp ends. High correlation between predicted and actual grades was also found for the distortion problem (0.86).

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10

Johansson, Ida. "NOT ON THE FABRIC BUT IN THE FABRIC : hardanger embroidery, animation and the grid". Thesis, Konstfack, Textil, 2016. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:konstfack:diva-5574.

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This paper describes my work with a historical craft and my attempt to find new ways to look at it, work with it and present it. I use the embroidery technique Hardangersaum which is all white, and where selected threads of the woven fabric grid are removed while others are wrapped and embellished. The artistic research leans heavily on the traditional craft but tries to isolate it from its historical baggage. I turn my focus to the grid of the fabric and I present some viewpoints from Rosalind Krauss and Hannah B. Higgins. I describe questions of scale and presentation that have emerged and show how digital animation has played a major role in the development and the communication of the embroidery work.

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11

Summer, Michael Joshua. "Vision based automated fabric placement". Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2002. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/17049.

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12

Chugg, Kevin John. "The mechanisms of fabric softening". Thesis, University of Cambridge, 1990. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.385381.

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13

Pimm, Andrew James. "Analysis of flexible fabric structures". Thesis, University of Nottingham, 2011. http://eprints.nottingham.ac.uk/12162/.

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This thesis is primarily aimed at carrying out analysis of Energy Bags, reinforced fabric bags used for subsea compressed air energy storage. Subsea compressed air energy storage is a completely new method of large-scale energy storage designed to be integrated with direct-compression offshore wind turbines and wave energy converters. Energy Bags are impermeable bags anchored to the seabed at significant depths (e.g. 500m) in which high pressure air, compressed by specially designed wind turbines and wave energy converters, is stored at pressures roughly equal to the hydrostatic pressure of the surrounding water. Energy Bags do not need to be particularly strong because most of the reaction to the pressure load is provided by the surrounding water, and high energy densities are available at such depths as 500m. This thesis investigates the deformed shapes of Energy Bags and studies optimal designs. Three analysis methods are developed which vary in their complexity, ease of use, and accuracy. First, a system of coupled ordinary differential equations (ODEs) is derived which describes the deformed shape of an axisymmetric Energy Bag. This model is later used in an optimisation study to find the shapes of bag which minimise the cost of materials (reinforcement, fabric, and ballast) per unit of energy stored. Circumferential reinforcement, hanging masses from the inside of the bag (which it was hoped would lower the total cost) and fill level are all included as variables in the optimisation, and it is found that for reasonable materials costs an Energy Bag could cost less than £10,000/MWh when anchored at 500m. This compares favourably with all other methods of large-scale energy storage. However, the bags used in the optimisation study have wide bases, which will require sealing against the seabed (unless water is to be allowed into the bags). Problems are encountered when trying to use the ODE method to find the shapes of partially inflated bags, and it is generally not very easy to use. Next, we carry out finite element analysis (FEA) of an axisymmetric Energy Bag using cable elements. This is much more user-friendly and flexible than the ODE method. Partially inflated bag shapes are found, and pressure-volume curves are presented which show the almost isobaric performance of an Energy Bag. It is found that material mass limits the extent to which the bag can be deflated before it becomes unstable. The axisymmetric FEA is used to study bags with much more realistic circumferential reinforcement than the ODE method, and we also look at bags with an unsealed base, which allow water in through the base as they deflate. A three-dimensional FEA tool is presented which models an Energy Bag as a cable-reinforced membrane using cable and membrane elements, and special measures had to be taken to deal with wrinkling. We assume that the bag is rotationally symmetric, comprising a number of symmetric lobes. The 3D FEA is used to find the stress distribution in the membrane of the bag, however a converged solution cannot always be found. It is not certain why this is the case but it is anticipated that it is because deformed bags are not always rotationally symmetric. The 3D FEA could also be used to model other membrane structures such as balloons, parachutes, roofs and sails, as well as nets. The standard cutting patterns for lobes in lobed balloons are analysed, and a new cutting pattern known as the Constant Tension lobe is generated. This is an extension of the Constant Radius lobe and takes into account the pressure gradient found in both air and water, minimising waste material. The Constant Tension lobe is particularly appropriate for Energy Bags because of the large pressure gradient in water. The Ultra High Performance Vessel architecture is also presented, upon which the design of the prototype Energy Bags is based. The fabric structure of an Ultra High Performance Vessel comprises only two sheets of fabric (rather than many separate lobes welded together), and tendon shortening and “bellows” serve to ensure that there is no meridional stress in the fabric. An analytical optimisation is used to show that the zero pressure bag that minimises cost of materials per unit of energy stored has equal costs of reinforcement and membrane. The axisymmetric FEA is also used to find the optimum bag size and maximum fill level for a bag which comes down to a single point at the base (as opposed to a wide base bag). Finally, testing of two 1.8m diameter superpressure Energy Bags has been commenced during the course of this work, and the prototypes and test rig are documented in this thesis. The prototypes were manufactured for us by Thin Red Line Aerospace Ltd., a Canadian manufacturer of deployable fabric structures for use in space. They are being cycled back-to-back in order to prove the concept, assess the performance of an Energy Bag over time, and identify any problems that need to be addressed. One of the bags had a few small leaks from the moment it was first inflated, but the other has remained airtight to date. It was found that if an Energy Bag is to be airtight, special attention must be paid to the welds at the seams and the sealing around the airline fittings.

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14

Zhang, Lei. "Reliability analysis of fabric structures". Thesis, University of Newcastle Upon Tyne, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10443/995.

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This PhD thesis demonstrates a reliability analysis methodology to solve the safety issues existing in the current structural design of fabric structures: The safety coefficients proposed by different countries and academic institutes are not consistent, and the leading structural safeties are obscure and require a justification. A reliability tool specific for fabric structures is developed to estimate the structural safety and justify the safety coefficients for structural design based on the variations of the design variables like loads, material strength. The research work includes three main parts: the first one aims at a finite element formulation proposed for a highly accurate and efficient deterministic analysis. Four element types have been compared and discussed, and the linear strain triangle coupled with Dynamic Relaxation algorithm are shown to be most efficient with the satisfactory accuracy, The second part is focus on a probabilistic methodology to identify and analyze the material uncertainties based on the experiment data. The probabilistic models to qualify the variation in the fabric strength and Young’s modulus under uniaxial tension are demonstrated, and a practical algorithm to determine best data-fit distributions is also presented. The third part is the reliability formulation which consists of first order reliability method(FORM) and the finite element method based on the six node linear strain triangles. The analytical method with the principle of chain rule is applied in deriving the gradients of the limit state functions. The sensitivities of the structural safety corresponding to different uncertainties are compared and analyzed through numerical examples. Finally a case study based a realistic design example is undertaken, and safety factors for loads, materials, and other design elements are justified and discussed. This thesis demonstrates that the safety coefficients currently used in the fabric structure design may not be either economic or safe. Based on the uncertainty information of the design elements, the appropriate safety factors required for the structural safety standards can be evaluated using the reliability tool, and then an optimized design decision in consideration of safety and cost can be subsequently determined.

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15

Loginov, Andrey U. "Modelling of knitted fabric deformation". Thesis, De Montfort University, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/2086/10709.

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The objective of this study was to investigate new models for the mechanical behaviour of knitted fabrics in quasi-static deformation from an initiallyrelaxed state to the extended state. In order to do so a mechanism for plain knitted structure deformation in plane was proposed, implemented and tested on a range of real samples. The problem of extension of a knitted structure is complicated by the combination of non-linear properties derived from both the characteristics of the knitted structure and the properties of the yam. To obtain a solution to this problem a finite-elementtechnique was used to evaluate the proposed model. The proposed model of mechanical behaviour of knitted fabrics is an analogue of the thin membrane problem in mechanics. The model developed is applicable to a wide range of mechanical problems where it is possible to assume that fabric is a thin membrane with zero bending rigidity. To facilitate the mechanical properties of the proposed model, standard dimensional parameters of fabric and yam combined with the mechanical properties have been used. With the purpose of obtaining important yam characteristics for the subsequent evaluation of the model, an advanced analysis of the yam path in plain knitted fabric was performed. An algorithm for loop geometry from the given fabric dimensions in course and wale directions and yam properties were developed. In order to implement the algorithms developed during this investigation complex software was written. This software allows simulation of the mechanical behaviour of different plain knitted structures under various loading and boundary conditions. At the approval stage of the model, a number of fabric samples were produced and tested; models of real samples have been simulated and compared with experimental data. The model used could be developed further to extend the application to tackle complex 3D deformation and to simulate a range of different knitted structures.

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16

Ngan, Yuk-tung Henry y 顏旭東. "Patterned Jacquard fabric defect detection". Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2004. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B30070880.

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17

Ramakrishna, S. "Knitted fabric reinforced polymer composites". Thesis, University of Cambridge, 1992. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.385354.

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18

Motamedi, Farshad. "Interfacial friction in fabric mechanics". Thesis, Imperial College London, 1989. http://hdl.handle.net/10044/1/47577.

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19

Lok, WaiKai Leslie. "Hyperdensity : revival of social fabric". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2011. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/65436.

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Thesis (M. Arch.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Architecture, 2011.
This electronic version was submitted by the student author. The certified thesis is available in the Institute Archives and Special Collections.
Cataloged from student submitted PDF version of thesis. Page 118 blank.
Includes bibliographical references (p. 116-117).
In Hangzhou, building height restriction is employed to preserve views and historical values, this renders a comparatively low density in the city center. Unable to accommodate the pressure of rapid urbanization, much of the existing social and urban construct are continuously challenged and removed in order to embrace new profit-driven developments resulting in functional separation. This leads to a homogenized and highly commercialized yet low density fabric. The ambition is to revive the social construct by providing a new architectural language to intervene the many historic city centers where vertical expansion is not an option. The thesis proposes a hyper-density approach to reconstruct the social program and integrate with the commercial fabric. Standard circulation of the street blocks and open space are strategically eliminated providing opportunity for insertion of civic programs. Oblique floor plates are introduced as an architectural terrain to operate and negotiate between two systems, the social and the commercial. With each system inherits its own set of distinct floor heights and programmatic parameters, discrepancies between 5 meters (commercial) and 3 meters (social fix) floor heights are identified as moments to privilege circulation, public space, daylight requirements or flexible social program (social flex). By privileging the social flex, the relationship between the social and commercial can be intensify in the form of boundary or diminish into an ambiguous topographic floor plate. In this sense, hyper-density is fulfilled quantitatively by sets of floor plates delivering FAR counts and program units, as well as qualitatively by the construct of mixed-use and intensification of public access or ambiguous adjacencies. The thesis addresses the multiple implications of urbanization by re-conceptualizing the social programs and compacting the city center.
by WaiKai Leslie Lok.
M.Arch.

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20

Husain, Muhammad Dawood. "Development of temperature sensing fabric". Thesis, University of Manchester, 2012. https://www.research.manchester.ac.uk/portal/en/theses/development-of-temperature-sensing-fabric(0e5e8367-c3b2-4cff-bcc9-f32fac97b50f).html.

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Human body temperature is an important indicator of physical performance and condition in terms of comfort, heat or cold stress. The aim of this research was to develop Temperature Sensing Fabric (TSF) for continuous temperature measurement in healthcare applications. The study covers the development and manufacture of TSF by embedding fine metallic wire into the structure of textile material using a commercial computerised knitting machine. The operational principle of TSF is based on the inherent propensity of a metal wire to respond to changes in temperature with variation in its electrical resistance. Over 60 TSF samples were developed with combinations of different sensing elements, two inlay densities and highly textured polyester yarn as the base material. TSF samples were created using either bare or insulated wires with a range of diameters from 50 to 150 μm and metal wires of nickel, copper, tungsten, and nickel coated copper. In order to investigate the Temperature-Resistance (T-R) relationship of TSF samples for calibration purposes, a customised test rig was developed and monitoring software was created in the LabVIEW environment, to record the temperature and resistance signals simultaneously. TSF samples were tested in various thermal environments, under laboratory conditions and in practical wear trials, to analyse the relationship between the temperature and resistance of the sensing fabric and to develop base line specifications such as sensitivity, resistance ratio, precision, nominal resistance, and response time; the influence of external parameters such as humidity and strain were also monitored. The regression uncertainty was found to be less than in ±0.1°C; the repeatability uncertainty was found to be less than ±0.5°C; the manufacturing uncertainty in terms of nominal resistance was found to be ± 2% from its mean. The experimental T-R relationship of TSF was validated by modelling in the thermo-electrical domain in both steady and transient states. A maximum error of 0.2°C was found between the experimental and modelled T-R relationships. TSF samples made with bare wire sensing elements showed slight variations in their resistance during strain tests, however, samples made with insulated sensing elements did not demonstrate any detectable strain-dependent-resistance error. The overall thermal response of TSF was found to be affected by basal fabric thickness and mass; the effect of RH was not found to be significant. TSF samples with higher-resistance sensing elements performed better than lower-resistance types. Furthermore, TSF samples made using insulated wire were more straightforward to manufacture because of their increased tensile strength and exhibited better sensing performance than samples made with bare wire. In all the human body wear trials, under steady-state and dynamic conditions both sensors followed the same trends and exhibited similar movement artifacts. When layers of clothing were worn over the sensors, the difference between the response of the TSF and a high-precision reference temperature were reduced by the improved isothermal conditions near the measurement site.

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21

Cosovic, Daniela. "FABRIC ARCHITECTURE: BODY IN MOTION". Master's thesis, Orlando, Fla. : University of Central Florida, 2009. http://purl.fcla.edu/fcla/etd/CFE0002606.

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22

Mitchell, Dana Scott. "The lost fabric of the city : reweaving the torn fabric of the American inner-city". Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 1990. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/23361.

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23

Wang, Yiyi. "Discrimination of fabric mechanical properties and buckling deformations in a novel fabric handle evaluation system". Thesis, University of Leeds, 2016. http://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/16070/.

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This research is to study the characteristics of fabric properties measured in an innovative fabric test system, Leeds University Fabric Handle Evaluation System (LUFHES); it is designed for objectively evaluating fabric handle in a simpler, relatively low cost and automatic method. The quantification of fabric handle in the LUFHES is based on the energy consumption of fabric shells during their cyclic shear twisting and cyclic axial compression buckling deformations, as well as the fabric surface properties evaluated from fabric-fabric self-friction process. In this study, low stress fabric mechanical properties measured in the cyclic axial compression buckling, shear twisting and fabric-fabric friction of fabric shells in LUFHES were analysed to establish the new technological approach in relation to fabric handle analysis. In addition, the fabric properties measured in the LUFHES were compared with the fabric properties measured in fabric unidirectional deformation processes such as the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F) and the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) to disclose the differences of these three fabric measurement systems. Properties of 29 fabrics including 12 woven fabrics, 7 knitted fabrics and 10 nonwoven fabrics were studied in this project in order to understand the mechanical properties of fabrics which are made from different fibres, having different fabric structures, fabric weight and thickness measured by using the LUFHES system. The suitable pre-tension for the LUFHES tests was determined by analysing the effect of pre-tensions on the energy consumption of various fabric deformations in cyclic fabric shell compression buckling-recovery processes, and suitable pre-tension force for fabric measurements in the LUFHES was identified in the range of 1.2N/m and 2N/m. Fabric shear and buckling properties measured in the LUFHES were compared with shear and bending properties obtained in both the KES-F and FAST systems to investigate the differences between these three systems in discriminating fabrics. It was found that fabric shear properties obtained in the FAST were different from those obtained in the LUFHES shear tests for woven fabrics due to insufficient shear deformations in woven fabrics in FAST test. It was also found that shear properties obtained in the KES-F shear tests were not in agreement with those obtained in the LUFHES tests due to greater extension forces applied on fabrics leading to greater fabric elongation before its shear test in the KES-F system for some fabrics such as knitted and nonwoven fabrics. Thus, fabric discriminations in terms of fabric shear properties obtained in these three testing systems will be different. The correlation between critical buckling force and bending properties was found to depend on the fabric types and measurement methods. Critical buckling forces of woven and nonwoven fabrics obtained in the LUFHES were found to correlate well with bending rigidity obtained in the KES-F system, while critical buckling forces of knitted fabrics correlated well with the bending rigidity obtained in the FAST system. It was found that there are several unique advantages using the fabric-fabric self- friction method in objective measurement of fabric handle over other methods such as fabric-metal and fabric-artificial finger frictions. The characteristics of fabric-fabric self-friction in the LUFHES friction test were analysed theoretically and experimentally, as well as compared with that of the KES-F fabric-sensor friction/roughness test. It was found that fabric-fabric friction coefficients obtained in LUFHES were greater and in a wider range than those obtained in the KES-F fabric-sensor friction test, and the spectrum of LUFHES fabric-fabric friction profile has advantages in differentiating the main fabric characteristic structures. In summary, the unique low-stress mechanical properties (shear and buckling) obtained in the LUFHES tests reveal insightful information of mechanical properties of fabric shell during biaxial deformations. The fabric-fabric friction was found to have advantages in discriminating fabric friction coefficient and fabric surface structures. Thus, the LUFHES has the potential to be used to sensitively evaluate fabric handle.

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Segura, Alcaraz María del Pilar. "Empleo de textiles en aplicaciones de absorción sonora". Doctoral thesis, Universitat Politècnica de València, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10251/159786.

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[ES] Esta memoria de tesis presenta una contribución al estudio de los materiales textiles en el campo de la absorción sonora. En concreto, se ha trabajado con la asociación de una capa absorbente fibrosa constituida por una estructura laminar no tejida cuya composición es poliéster y una capa resistiva a base de tejido de calada también compuesta de poliéster. El objetivo de este trabajo consiste en evaluar las variaciones que provocan los cambios en distintos parámetros de construcción de la capa resistiva, sobre el comportamiento del conjunto ante el sonido. Para abordar el problema se emplean distintos tejidos de calada, tales como telas simples, múltiples, acolchadas y rizo, con diferentes parámetros de construcción. Se mide el coeficiente de absorción de sonido al aplicarlas a diferentes espesores de estructura no tejida de poliéster, empleando el tubo de ondas estacionarias. Tras analizar los resultados obtenidos, se observan diferencias en los coeficientes de absorción de sonido alcanzados, las cuales se explican atendiendo al espesor del no tejido, pero también se observa la influencia de las características constructivas de los tejidos empleados. Finalmente, se emplea el diseño de experimentos para obtener la combinación óptima de parámetros que proporciona el mayor coeficiente de absorción de sonido para un tipo de tejido dado en todas las frecuencias estudiadas. Se concluye que, la modificación en la absorción de sonido de una estructura no tejida al aplicar una capa resistiva de tejido de calada, es lo suficientemente significativa como para ser tenida en cuenta a la hora de diseñar productos textiles para acondicionamiento acústico y que el diseño de experimentos constituye una herramienta de gran utilidad a este fin.
[CAT] Aquesta memòria de tesi presenta una contribució a l'estudi dels materials tèxtils en el camp de l'absorció sonora. En concret, s'hi ha treballat amb l'associació d'una capa absorbent fibrosa constituïda per un no teixit de polièster i una capa resistiva a base de teixit de calada de composició polièster. L'objectiu d'aquest treball consisteix a avaluar les variacions que provoquen els canvis en diferents paràmetres de construcció de la capa resistiva, sobre el comportament del conjunt davant el so. Per a abordar el problema s'empren diferents teixits de calada, com ara teles simples, múltiples, encoixinats i ris, amb diferents paràmetres de construcció. Es mesura el coeficient d'absorció en aplicarles a diferents grossàries de no teixit de polièster, emprant el tub d'ones estacionàries. S'observen diferències en els coeficients d'absorció de so obtinguts, les quals s'expliquen atenent la grossària del no teixit, però també a les característiques constructives dels teixits emprats. Finalment, s'empra el disseny d'experiments per a obtenir la combinació òptima de paràmetres que proporciona el major coeficient d'absorció de so per a un tipus de teixit donat en totes les freqüències estudiades. Es conclou que la modificació en l'absorció de so d'un no teixit en aplicar una capa resistiva de teixit de calada és prou significativa per a ser tinguda en compte a l'hora de dissenyar productes tèxtils per a condicionament acústic i que el disseny d'experiments constitueix una eina de gran utilitat a aquest efecte.
[EN] This thesis report presents a contribution to the study of textile materials in the field of sound absorption. Specifically, we have worked with the association of a fibrous absorbent layer consisting of a polyester nonwoven and a resistive layer based on openwork fabric. The objective of this work is to evaluate the variations that cause the changes in different construction parameters of the resistive layer, on the behaviour of the whole before the sound. To address the problem, different openwork fabrics are used, such as single, multiple, quilted and curl fabrics, with different construction parameters. The absorption coefficient is measured when applied to different thicknesses of polyester nonwoven, using the standing wave tube. Differences are observed in the sound absorption coefficients obtained, which are explained according to the thickness of the nonwoven, but also to the constructive characteristics of the fabrics used. Finally, the design of experiments is used to obtain the optimal combination of parameters that provides the highest sound absorption coefficient for a given type of tissue at all frequencies studied. It is concluded that the modification in the sound absorption of a nonwoven when applying a resistive layer of openwork fabric is significant enough to be taken into account when designing textual products for acoustic conditioning and that the design of experiments constitutes a very useful tool for this purpose.
Al departamento de Ingeniería Textil y Papelera y a la unidad docente de Alcoy del departamento de Mecánica de los Medios Continuos y Teoría de Estructuras, por facilitarme los medios necesarios para realizar todas las actividades que han sido necesarias. A Jaime Ramis Soriano, por recibirme en el laboratorio de Grupo de Acústica Aplicada del IUFACyT de la Universidad de Alicante.
Segura Alcaraz, MDP. (2020). Empleo de textiles en aplicaciones de absorción sonora [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/159786
TESIS

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Piazolo, Sandra. "Shape fabric development during progressive deformation". [S.l. : s.n.], 2000. http://ArchiMeD.uni-mainz.de/pub/2001/0032/diss.pdf.

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Huang, Wensheng. "Online Characterization of Fabric Comprssional Behavior". NCSU, 1999. http://www.lib.ncsu.edu/theses/available/etd-19991105-032423.

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HUANG, WENSHENG. Online Characterization of Fabric Compressional Behavior. (Under the direction of Tushar K. Ghosh and Winser E. Alexander)Response of a fabric to applied forces normal to its plane is known as fabric compressional behavior. It is one of the important properties that determine fabric performance in many applications. The principle of a system used to measure fabric compressional characteristics, online, is proposed in this paper. A controllable nip formed by a pair of rollers is employed to apply compressional deformation to a moving fabric while the compression force and displacement are continuously recorded. The influence of various system parameters on the sensitivity of the system has been analyzed. By assuming a stepwise anisotropic behavior in the thickness direction, Incremental Differential Algorithm (IDA) is developed to calculate the pressure-displacement relationship from the measured force-displacement data obtained from the online system. A prototype online measurement system has been developed based on this principle. A number of woven and nonwoven fabrics have been evaluated using the online system as well as a number of other commercially available fabric compression testers. The compressional characteristics obtained from the online measurement system compare well with the same parameters measured using the other commercially available compressional testers.

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27

Belmonte, H. M. S. "Notched strength of woven fabric composites". Thesis, University of Surrey, 2002. http://epubs.surrey.ac.uk/774243/.

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Lefley, M. "The automated inspection of knitted fabric". Thesis, De Montfort University, 1988. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.380643.

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Hjelte, Ina. "i.dress, exploring when fabric becomes garment". Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan, 2013. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-17070.

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This work deals with definition of garments. It explores how little changes a piece of fabric needs to still make it into a garment. What is it that defines a garment, is it just that something is done with a piece of fabric or does it need some recognizing of body parts. The aim is to find new ways of construction without using templates and questioning when textile becomes garments by draping and cutting.Through using how clothes are fitted to the body but instead of using pattern templates work from a rectangle and make it fit the body as garment. Working from two-dimensional to three-dimensional by the help of the body, going directly from fabric to garment. By defining the essential parts in every garment and cutting holes in a rectangle to highlight a certain body part or letting the body go trough different holes to make the fabric turn and drape around the body. Conclusion of the work is that a cut or incision doesn’t always define a garment, that it takes another recognition as well to make the definition. During the development questions have arise as for example how to construct holes in all fabrics and deal with the finishing, how to use raw edges without ripping, how to sew were there is no seam allowance and how to create fabric suited for cutting.
Program: Modedesignutbildningen

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Sun, Albert (Albert G. ). "Raw fabric hardware implementation and characterization". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/37102.

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Thesis (M. Eng.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science, 2006.
Includes bibliographical references (p. 109-110).
The Raw architecture is scalable, improving performance not by pushing the limits of clock frequency, but by spreading computation across numerous simple, replicated tiles. The first Raw processors fabricated have 16 RISC processor tiles that share the workload. The Raw Fabric system extends Raw's scalability by weaving together multiple 16-tile Raw processors. The Raw Fabric is a modular and scalable system comprised of two board types: one to house 4 Raw processors (Processor board) and one to handle communications (I/O board). The design is modular because it breaks down the system into smaller parts, and it is scalable because these modules may be combined to create large Fabrics. The ultimate goal is to produce a Raw Fabric with 16 Processor boards (equivalently, 64 Raw processors or 1024 tiles), though the current largest Fabric system includes one Processor board and 3 I/O boards. This thesis walks through the important design and implementation challenges and documents how they were solved. The most basic challenge faced was to design a system flexible enough to accommodate a variety of Fabric sizes.
(cont.) Next, the distribution of vital signals such as power and clock provides a problem unique to the Fabric system because of the possible size of the final product. Finally, the astounding number of signal wires running between boards presents a unique challenge in finding parts and designing the mechanical aspects. The intent of this thesis is to provide the reader with an idea of the considerations necessary for designing and implementing a system of this magnitude and level of flexibility.
by Albert Sun.
M.Eng.

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Caine, Christine (Christine M. ). "A transformation of Shanghai's urban fabric". Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/35130.

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Thesis (S.M.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Architecture, 2006.
Includes bibliographical references (leaf 84).
Due to rapid development of the city, Shanghai has become characterized by drastic juxtapositions of building typologies and urban forms. Entire sections of the urban center are being replaced with large scale developments while the city overall expands into the periphery, replacing farmland with gated superblock developments. The city may be said to be losing identity as large sections of traditional urban fabric are being replaced. It is presented in this Thesis, that preservation of this identity is feasible by the implementation of a plan for the transformation of urban fabric. This thesis investigates a methodology by which an appropriate stepped transformation of urban form arises out of the intense analysis and comparison of traditional and new development samples. The first part of this thesis is titled Context and traces the numerous levels of juxtaposition within the urban environemnt of Shanghai, based on observations during site visit and research conducted in the Fall of 2005 with the MIT research seminar, Sustainable Development in Shanghai. Elaborating on these observations and clarifying the distinct characteristics of each side being juxtaposed, the next section of this thesis is titled Analysis.
(cont.) This analysis takes each sample set and extracts the essential components in order to form a resource data set, refereed to as the "kit of parts". The final section is titled Transformation and proposes a fabric that intends to preserve Shanghai's urban identity. Believing that factors of identity are embedded in the basic Lilong urban structure, an average model, representative of the Lilong form is used as the starting point for the transformation that follows. The fabric is arrived at by a designed transformation process of steps onto this initial average model, informed by the introduction of pieces from the kit of parts for both old and new developments. It is proposed that the final outcome of this transformation is inevitably tied to traditional urbanity while addressing modern standards of living as it's foundation is the average model of Lilong neighborhood and it's transformation is partially guided by elements of superblock development within the kit of parts.
by Christine Caine.
S.M.

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32

Zhang, Shiyu. "Design advances of embroidered fabric antennas". Thesis, Loughborough University, 2014. https://dspace.lboro.ac.uk/2134/14719.

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Wearable technology has attracted global attention in the last decade and the market is experiencing an unprecedented growth. Wearable devices are designed to be low-profile, light-weight and integrated seamlessly into daily life. Comfort is one of the most important requirements for wearable devices. Fabric based antennas are soft, flexible and can be integrated into clothing. State of the art textile manufacturing techniques such as embroidery, combined with advanced conductive textile materials can be used to fabricate flexible fabric based on-body antennas. In this thesis, the feasibility of using computerised embroidery in the fabrication of wearable, flexible yet functional fabric based antennas have been examined. The fabric based antennas are embroidered using conductive threads. The most suitable materials for fabricating embroidered antennas have been identified. The embroidered fabric based antenna systems including transmission lines and low-profile detachable connectors have been fabricated and their RF performances have been tested. The optimal manufacturing parameters related to embroidery such as stitch direction, spacing and length have been examined. The repeatability of embroidered antennas, cost estimation, and complexity of manufacturing process have been clearly presented. The results can be used to inform and provide guidelines for the development of representative products that can be mass manufactured. A new simulation approach has been introduced to analyse the anisotropic properties of embroidered conductive threads. Simulations and measurements indicate that the performances of embroidered antennas are affected by the anisotropic surface current due to the embroidered stitches. Exploiting the current direction, a novel non-uniform meshed patch antenna has been designed. Representative results show that the non-uniform meshed structure can significantly reduce more than 75% of the usage of conductive materials for the microstrip antennas with negligible effect on the antenna performance.

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Pargana, Julio Balsa. "Realistic modelling of tension fabric structures". Thesis, Imperial College London, 2004. http://hdl.handle.net/10044/1/51483.

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An accurate and reliable analysis capability for Tensioned Fabric Structures (TFS) constructed from plain weave PTFE coated glass-fiber fabric has been developed in this work. This analysis facility has in turn enabled an investigation of the behaviour and design of TFS to be conducted. The investigation has revealed deficiencies in current design procedures, which may ultimately result in compromised design, as these are founded on unrealistic overly simplistic design assumptions. The analysis facility developed is based on finite element analysis, and utilizes newly purpose developed elements and a specially developed material model for the fabric component of structures. The new elements and material model for fabric have been integrated into ADAPTIC (Izzuddin, 1991), an advanced nonlinear structural analysis program, allowing real structures to be analysed. The analysis facility developed enables analytical structural models to converge closer to physical reality than allowed by existing analysis facilities, which is attributed to the robust assumptions upon which the new analysis facility is based. As an example of such a robust assumption, fabric patterns are taken to be flat in their unstressed state, a realistic assumption ignored by typical current analysis capabilities for TFS. The accuracy and reliability of the developed finite elements and material model for the fabric are demonstrated to be high, through an appropriate number of verification examples and comparison of experimental test data, for the material response, against the modelled response. Confidence in the analysis facility is thus guaranteed. The work also contains a theoretical deliberation of the current design procedure, the integrated design procedure and a new design procedure called the combined design procedure. The combined design procedure, so called as it is based on both the current design procedure and the integrated design procedure, offers the prospect of considerable improvements to the overall design process for TFS.

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Yong, Sheng. "Fabrication and characterisation of fabric supercapacitor". Thesis, University of Southampton, 2016. https://eprints.soton.ac.uk/417382/.

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Fabric supercapacitor is a flexible electrochemical device for energy storage application. It is designed to power up flexible electronic systems used for, for example, information sensing, data computation and communication. The development of a flexible supercapacitor is important for e-textiles since supercapacitor can achieve higher energy density than a standard parallel plate capacitor and a larger power density compared with a battery. This research area is currently facing barriers on improve the device fabrication performance/cost efficiency, electrode throughput and reduce the device packaging difficulty. This work presents research into fabric supercapacitor, including the basic theory of supercapacitors, review of previous fabric supercapacitor designs based on different materials and frication method and a description of the characterisation methods used to evaluate supercapacitors. The objective of this thesis is to propose the design, fabrication and characterization of prototype fabric supercapacitors with cost efficient electrode material, fast and reliable fabrication method and improved device structure. Within the thesis four prototype flexible supercapacitors with fabric electrode has been achieved: the multilayer layer supercapacitor with dip coated fabric electrode and aqueous electrolyte achieved a specific capacitance of 14.1 F.g-1 a low normalized equivalent series resistance (ESR) (Ω.cm) of 22 Ω.cm, the multilayer layer supercapacitor with spray coated fabric electrode and aqueous electrolyte achieved a specific capacitance of 15.3 F.g-1 a low normalized ESR of 20.8 Ω.cm, the two layer solid-state supercapacitor with spray coated fabric electrode and gel electrolyte achieved a specific capacitance of 15.4 F.g-1 a normalized ESR of 61.2 Ω.cm, the single layer solid-state supercapacitor with spray coated fabric electrode and gel electrolyte achieved a specific capacitance of 14.9 F.g-1 a normalized ESR of 183 Ω.cm. All of the supercapacitor presented in this thesis achieves an excellent cycling stability over 15000 cycles. At the end of the thesis several areas improvements will be discussed for further development.

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35

Kindiger, Andrew P. "Fabric of Thought and Other Poems". ScholarWorks@UNO, 2017. http://scholarworks.uno.edu/td/2304.

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Agnhage, Tove. "Eco-designed functionalization of polyester fabric". Doctoral thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2017. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12408.

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There is an increased awareness of the textile dyeing and finishing sector’s high impact on the environment due to high water consumption, polluted wastewater, and inefficient use of energy. To reduce environmental impacts, researchers propose the use of dyes from natural sources. The purpose of using these is to impart new attributes to textiles without compromising on environmental sustainability. The attributes given to the textile can be color and/or other characteristics. A drawback however, is that the use of bio-sourced dyes is not free from environmental concerns. Thus, it becomes paramount to assess the environmental impacts from using them and improve the environmental profile, but studies on this topic are generally absent. The research presented in this thesis has included environmental impact assessment, using the life cycle assessment (LCA) tool, in the design process of a multifunctional polyester (PET) fabric using natural anthraquinones. By doing so an eco-design approach has been applied, with the intention to pave the way towards eco-sustainable bio-functionalization of textiles. The anthraquinones were obtained from the root extracts of the madder plant (Rubia tinctorum L.), referred to as madder dye. The research questions were therefore formulated related to the use of madder dye. Three research questions have been answered: (I) Can madder dye serve as a multifunctional species onto a PET woven fabric? (II) How does the environmental profile of the dyeing process of PET with madder dye look like, and how can it be improved? (III) What are the main challenges in using LCA to assess the environmental impacts of textile dyeing with plant-based dyes? It is concluded that there is a potential for the madder dye to serve as a multifunctional species onto PET. Based on the encouraging result, a recommendation for future work would be to focus on the durability of the functionalities presented and their improvement potential, both in exhaustion dyeing and pad-dyeing. LCA driven process optimization of the exhaustion dyeing enabled improvement in every impact category studied. However, several challenges have been identified which need to be overcome for the LCA to contribute to the sustainable use of multifunctional plant-based species in textile dyeing. The main challenges are the lack of available data at the research stage and the interdisciplinary nature of the research arena. It is envisaged that if these challenges are addressed, LCA can contribute towards sustainable bio-functionalization of textiles.
Le secteur de la teinture et de l’ennoblissement textile est de plus en plus conscient de son impact sur l’environnement dû principalement à la consommation élevée de l’eau et à sa pollution, et aux pertes d’énergie. Pour réduire ces impacts, les chercheurs proposent l’utilisation de molécules issues de ressources naturelles, pour traiter les textiles en limitant les impacts sur l’environnement. C’est le cas pour l’obtention de textiles colorés ou pour l’attribution de toute autre fonctionnalité. Cependant, il n’est pas évident que ces molécules bio-sourcées n’aient aucun impact sur l’environnement. On comprend l’importance d’évaluer les impacts de leur utilisation et d’améliorer leur profil environnemental. Or ce type d’étude est peu présent dans la littérature. La recherche présentée dans cette thèse comporte l’évaluation des impacts environnementaux en utilisant l’outil d’analyse du cycle de vie (ACV) pour la conception du traitement d’un tissu de polyester (PET) multifonctionnel avec des anthraquinones naturelles. La méthodologie d’éco conception que nous avons appliquée ouvre la voie à une bio-fonctionnalisation des textiles plus respectueuse de l’environnement. Les anthraquinones ont été obtenues par extraction des racines de plantes de garance et constituent le colorant appelé garance. Les trois questions principales abordées lors de ce travail de recherche sont formulées autour de l’utilisation de la garance : (I) Peut-on traiter les tissus de PET avec de la garance pour obtenir des propriétés multifonctionnelles ? (II) Quel est le profil environnemental du procédé de teinture du PET par la garance et comment l’améliorer ? (III) Quels sont les principaux challenges pour l’utilisation de l’ACV dans l’évaluation environnementale du traitement des textiles par des colorants naturels? Nous avons montré que la garance peut être utilisée pour conférer des propriétés multifonctionnelles au PET. Ensuite, nous avons pu orienter notre étude pour améliorer la durabilité des traitements par les procédés de fonctionnalisation à la fois par épuisement ou par foulardage. En s’appuyant sur l’ACV, l’optimisation de la teinture que nous avons réalisée réduit tous les impacts sur l’environnement. Cette étude nous permet d’identifier les challenges qui doivent être surmontés pour que l’ACV puisse contribuer à l’utilisation de bio-molécules pour la teinture des textiles dans le respect des principes de développement durable. Ils concernent le manque de données pour ces travaux de recherche et leur nature interdisciplinaire. Ainsi, en résolvant ces questions, on peut envisager aboutir à une bio- fonctionnalisation des textiles respectueuse de l’environnement.
Den höga miljöpåverkan från textilfärgning och efterbehandling, på grund av hög vattenförbrukning, dess förorening, och ineffektiv användning av energi, är idag välkänt. För att minska miljöpåverkan föreslår forskningsvärlden användning av färgämnen från naturliga resurser. Syftet med att använda dessa är att ge nya attribut till textilier utan att göra avkall på miljömässig hållbarhet. Attribut som ges kan vara färg och/eller andra egenskaper. En nackdel är dock att användningen av bio-baserade färgämnen är inte fri från att belasta miljön. Det blir därför av största betydelse att bedöma denna miljöpåverkan och förbättra miljöprofilen. Sådana studier är dock i allmänhet sällsynta. Studien som presenteras i denna avhandling har inkluderat miljöpåverkans- bedömning, med hjälp av livscykelanalys (LCA), i designprocessen av en multifunktionell polyester (PET) väv via naturliga antrakinoner. Genom att göra så har ett eko-design tillvägagångssätt använts, med avsikt att bana väg för miljömässigt hållbar bio-funktionalisering av textil. Antrakinonerna erhölls från rot extrakt av växten krapp (Rubia tinctorum L.), och hänvisas till som krapp färgämne. Frågeställningar var därför formulerade relaterat till användningen av krapp färgämne. Tre forskningsfrågor har besvarats: (I) Kan krapp färgämne verka multifunktionellt på en PET väv? (II) Hur ser miljöprofilen ut, från färgningsprocessen av PET med krapp färgämne, och hur kan den förbättras? (III) Vilka är de största utmaningarna med att använda LCA för att bedöma miljökonsekvenserna av textilfärgning med växtbaserade färgämnen? Det kan konkluderas att det finns potential för krapp färgämne att verka multifunktionellt på PET. Baserat på uppmuntrande resultat är en rekommendation för det framtida arbetet att fokusera på kvalitén hos de attribut som presenterats och deras förbättringspotential, både i färgning via färgbad och via foulard. LCA driven processoptimering av textilfärgningen förbättrade i varje miljöpåverkans- kategori som studerats. Emellertid har flera utmaningar identifierats som måste övervinnas för att LCA skall kunna bidra till en hållbar användning av multifunktionella växtbaserade färgämnen för textil. De största utmaningarna är bristen på tillgängliga data i forskningsstadiet och den tvärvetenskapliga forskningsarenan. Det är tänkt att om dessa utmaningar bemästras kan LCA bidra till en hållbar bio-funktionalisering av textil.

Disputationen kan följas via länk i sal U401b, Textilhögskolan, Högskolan i Borås

Erasmus Mundus Joint Doctorate program: Sustainable Management and Design for Textiles

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37

Huang, Wensheng. "Online characterization of fabric compressional behavior". Raleigh, NC : North Carolina State University, 1999. http://www.lib.ncsu.edu/etd/public/etd-2929924109933270/etd.pdf.

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Chmielowiec, Ryszard. "Sewing machine, fabric and thread dynamics". Thesis, University of Leeds, 1993. http://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/4045/.

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In recent years, sewing technology has witnessed dramatic increases in machines speeds, new types of materials, new sewing threads and evaluation methods – but the principal type of sewing machine remains the lockstitch type and this is likely to remain the most common and versatile for the foreseeable future, particularly for sewing woven fabrics. Sewing machine speed increases lead to a loss of control of the sewing process due largely to an increase of the dynamic forces and consequently to problems such as seam pucker. In this research computer-based instrumentation and high-speed digital image and signal acquisition systems were developed to study the dynamic effects of the sewing machine, fabric and thread on seam pucker. Needle thread tension, needle bar pressure/tension, presser-foot pressure and displacement signals were acquired simultaneously by 4 strain-gage/piezo-quartz sensors mounted on a Pfaff-563 machine and results were related to pucker measured by a CCO colour-video camera system integrated with the sewing machine. A series of experiments conducted on various types of fabrics provided illustrative examples of the characteristics of each signal acquired (distinctive shape, amplitudes-peaks valleys locations, duration etc), and also enabled their characteristics to be compared and the interactions among the signals to be studied. For example it was found that the increases in magnitude of the dynamic forces in relation to sewing machine speed increases from 200rpm to 5500rpm were lower than expected (needle thread tension 2.6 fold, presser-foot 1.2 fold and needle penetration force 3.2 fold). A comparison of the needle thread tension for standard woven fabrics and micro-fibre fabrics showed a significant difference in the signal shape, location and amplitudes. The instrumentation developed is located at the Institute of Textiles and Clothing of the Hong Kong Polytechnic University in Hong Kong.

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39

Leung, Ho-chuen Henry. "Green pathway : reconnecting Wan Chai local fabric /". View the Table of Contents & Abstract, 2005. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record/B34608989.

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40

Malek, Abdel Salam. "Online fabric inspection by image processing technology". Phd thesis, Université de Haute Alsace - Mulhouse, 2012. http://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00720041.

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The purpose of this thesis is to automate the online detection of weaving defects by a computerized system based on image processing software. Obviously, fabric inspection has an importance to prevent risk of delivering inferior quality product. Until recently, the visual defect detection is still under taken offline and manually by humans with many drawbacks such as tiredness, boredom, and, inattentiveness. Fortunately, the continuous development in computer technology introduces the online automated fabric inspection as an effective alternative. Because the defect-free fabric has a periodic regular structure, the occurrence of a defect in the fabric breaks the regular structure. Therefore, the fabric defects can be detected by monitoring fabric structure. In our work, Fast Fourier Transform and Cross-correlation techniques, i.e. linear operations, are first implemented to examine the structure regularity features of the fabric image in the frequency domain. To improve the efficiency of the technique and overcome the problem of detection errors, further thresholding operation is implemented using a level selection filter. Through this filter, the technique is able to detect only the actual or real defects and highlight their exact dimensions. A software package such as Matlab or Scilab is used for this procedure. It is implemented firstly on a simulated plain fabric to determine the most important parameters during the process of defect detection and then to optimize each of them even considering noise. To verify the success of the technique, it is implemented on real plain fabric samples with different colours containing various defects. Finally, a vision-based fabric inspection prototype that could be accomplished on-loom to inspect the fabric under construction with 100% coverage is proposed.

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41

Gilchrist, Seth. "Experimental investigation of a model forming fabric". Thesis, University of British Columbia, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/2429/53.

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Paper making involves three fabrics: forming, pressing, and drying. The forming fabric is responsible for sheet forming, the initial dewatering of a low concentration pulp suspension into a wet sheet of paper. In the process of forming, topographical and hydrodynamic marks can be transferred from the drainage media (the forming fabric) to the sheet produced. An experimental investigation of a model forming fabric was performed to identify the geometric parameters having the largest influence on hydrodynamic wire mark. The data were also compared with the numerical simulations of Huang. To simplify the problem, justifiable engineering simplifications were made. The second phase (the fibres) was removed and the machine-direction filaments were neglected. This reduced the problem to investigation of flow through a bank of dissimilar cylinders. It was desired to find the most important geometrical parameter to reduce flow non-uniformity in the paper side flow field. Particle image velocimetry, pressure drop and flow visualization tests were conducted to investigate the flow through the array of cylinders. It was found that with a cylinder surface separation of 0.75$\times$ the paper side cylinder diameter the pressure drop tended toward the sum of the rows, and the paper side flow field was nearly identical to the paper side row only flow field, regardless of the backing side cylinder dimensions and configuration. It was seen that when the pressure drop through the bank of cylinders was equal to the sum of the rows' pressure drops the paper side flow field was the same as the paper side row only flow field. As such, pressure drop can act as an indication of when the machine side row will not affect the paper side flow field.

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42

Strain, Megan A. "Fabric sculpture and the Manitoba art curriculum". Thesis, University of British Columbia, 1991. http://hdl.handle.net/2429/31122.

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The purpose of this studio based thesis is to discover what potential fabrics could offer as a sculptural medium and to examine whether fabric sculpture could be incorporated into the Manitoba Secondary School Art Curriculum. As an Art teacher, I am aware of the demands that the current art curriculum dictates, and the problems and concerns that art teachers face in trying to adhere to its standards. By reviewing the historical development of Manitoba art curricula and highlighting the major developments that have occurred, one can put the current guide into perspective. Contemplating the role that fabrics have played as historical and cultural artifacts gives us a better sense of how fabrics have been developed to meet the specific requirements that we as human beings have demanded of them. The sculptures that were produced for this study attempt to address the principal objectives of the current art curriculum and explore ideas and topics that reflect personal interests. I have endeavoured to create sculptures that not only stand as pieces of art, but which will also serve as examples to show art teachers how different fabrics and techniques can be used in senior high art classrooms. To support my thesis that fabric sculpture should be included in our art programmes, I have provided short reviews on sculptors who have worked with fabrics. Wherever possible I have tried to indicate how my students have reacted to this work, and where information concerning these artists may be obtained. I have included a sample unit that already exists in the current curriculum and discuss how fabric sculpture could be introduced though this unit. The recommendations that conclude this report suggest ways to encourage the teaching of sculpture and the introduction of fabric sculpture into the Manitoba Secondary School Art Curriculum.
Education, Faculty of
Graduate

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43

Turner, Adam William. "Experimental Test Methods for Inflatable Fabric Beams". Fogler Library, University of Maine, 2006. http://www.library.umaine.edu/theses/pdf/TurnerAW2006.pdf.

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44

Cunningham, Rebecca. "Fabric and paper : expressive potentials in fiber /". Online version of thesis, 1990. http://hdl.handle.net/1850/10971.

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45

Graham, Nigel Thomas. "Fabric studies in the Galway Granite, Ireland". Thesis, University of Oxford, 1997. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.362002.

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46

Leung, Ho-chuen Henry y 梁浩存. "Green pathway: reconnecting Wan Chai local fabric". Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2005. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B45009570.

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47

Bridgens, Benjamin Nathan. "Architectural fabric properties : determination, representation & prediction". Thesis, University of Newcastle Upon Tyne, 2005. http://hdl.handle.net/10443/1735.

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Coated woven fabrics are used in state-of-the-art structures and yet broad assumptions are made in both material testing and behaviour. Current design practice makes little reference to the complex non-linear behaviour of architectural fabrics. A better understanding of fabric response should enable reduction of safety factors, use of more economic materials and allow more architectural freedom in the forms that can be achieved. With limited availability of test equipment and no European standards on biaxial testing, a biaxial test rig has been designed and built for this work and a new test protocol has been developed. Application of prestress followed by cyclic loading conditions the fabric and enables medium to long term properties to be measured which are appropriate for structural design. Thorough sampling of all feasible design stress states fully quantifies the fabric response. Testing has been carried out on a wide range of PVC coated polyester and PTFE coated glass-fibre fabrics. Fabric test data is commonly manipulated to fit within a plane stress framework. It is shown in this work that plane stress theory is inappropriate for representing the complex deformation mechanisms of coated woven fabrics. It is proposed that the test data is used directly in finite element structural analysis by interpolation between values in a database of test results, with no limiting plane stress assumptions. 'Feasible strain plots' provide a new tool for quantifying fabric behaviour. A predictive fabric model based on force equilibrium in the fabric 'unit cell' has been developed. The model aims to be easily accessible to the design engineer, with all parameters derived from standard tests. Whilst avoiding unnecessary complexity, the model realistically models key fabric deformation mechanisms. The model provides a more accurate representation of fabric behaviour than current industry best practice (i.e. use of elastic constants based on biaxial test data), but without the need for specialist testing.

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48

Mabon, Lynne. "The interaction of wind and fabric structures". Thesis, University of Bath, 2003. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.275786.

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49

Asaad, Mohammed. "Damage accumulation in hybrid woven fabric composites". Thesis, Bournemouth University, 2002. http://eprints.bournemouth.ac.uk/341/.

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Damage accumulation in glass fibre woven reinforced epoxy laminates manufactured from two different fabrics have been investigated under three different loading conditions. One of the woven fabrics was non-hybrid glass using E-glass fibre yams in both warp and weft (fill) directions, the second fabric was a hybrid woven fabric using E-glass fibre yams in the warp direction and R-glass fibre yams in the weft direction. Destructive tests such as interlaminar shear, flexural and uniaxial tension tests were carried out on two different categories. In the first category four different fibre volume fractions of nonhybrid E-glass woven fabric reinforced epoxy resin laminates have been investigated. In the second category hybrid and non-hybrid woven fabric reinforced epoxy resin laminates for similar fibre volume fractions have been investigated. Acoustic Emission (AE) and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) were employed as nondestructive tools to predict and characterise the damage events in the composites. All laminates were fabricated using the wet hand lay-up process to laminate the fabric layers prior to curing. Epoxy resin (L20-SL set) was the sole matrix used for all composites. Test results showed higher mechanical performance for the hybrid composites and improvements in mechanical properties for higher fibre volume fraction in the non-hybrid composites. DMTA tests were carried out on the laminates of the categories mentioned above, the test results indicated the effect of fibre surface treatment concentration on the performance of mechanical properties of woven composites. DMTA data has been used to correlate the results of ILSS, flexural and tensile tests. A model was developed in this study based on the damage event sequential process of glass woven fabric reinforced epoxy resin composites. The model is an experimental analysis model, supported by DMTA, AE, SEM and visual examination of specimen fracture surface.

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50

Fay, Terry S. "Development of an Improved Fabric Flammability Test". Digital WPI, 2002. https://digitalcommons.wpi.edu/etd-theses/896.

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" The Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility (NCTRF) has been conducting fabric research for many decades. This project is a joint effort in establishing new test methods for evaluating the thermal protection garments provide. As a result of this project a new full scale test facility was constructed and is now operational. In this facility, a new traversing manikin test has been developed and will hopefully become a recognized test standard in the future. The traversing manikin test is designed to work with current test methods but also to provide a more detailed evaluation of a garment. Incorporated into the facility is the ability to reconfigure the fire source to recreate design fires that resemble those likely to occur onboard naval ships. While the data gather thus far is limited, it is believed with future testing a large set of data will be available to allow a cross comparison of this test with established test methods. "

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