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1
Nakayama, Yoshihiro, Kay I. Ohshima y Yasushi Fukamachi. "Enhancement of Sea Ice Drift due to the Dynamical Interaction between Sea Ice and a Coastal Ocean". Journal of Physical Oceanography 42, n.º 1 (1 de enero de 2012): 179–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-11-018.1.
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Abstract Wind factor, the ratio of sea ice drift speed to surface wind speed, is a key factor for the dynamics of sea ice and is generally about 2%. In some coastal oceans, however, the wind factor tends to be larger near the coast. This study proposes the enhancement mechanism of the sea ice drift caused by the dynamical coupling between sea ice and a coastal ocean. In a coastal ocean covered with sea ice, wind-forced sea ice drift excites coastal trapped waves (shelf waves) and generates fluctuating ocean current. This ocean current can enhance sea ice drift when the current direction is the same as that of the wind-driven drift. The authors consider a simplified setting where spatially uniform oscillating wind drifts sea ice parallel to the coast. When a barotropic long shelf wave is assumed for the ocean response, sea ice drifts driven by wind and ocean are obtained analytically. The ratio of ocean-driven to wind-driven sea ice drifts is used for the evaluation of the oceanic contribution to the enhancement of sea ice drift. The enhancement is mostly determined by the characteristics of the shelf waves, and sea ice drift is significantly enhanced close to the coast with lower-frequency wind forcing. Comparison with the observation off the Sakhalin coast shows that the degree of enhancement of sea ice drift and its characteristic such that larger enhancement occurs near the coast are mostly consistent with our theoretical solution, suggesting that this mechanism is present in the real ocean.
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Viola, Cristina, Danielle Verdon-Kidd y Hannah Power. "CHARACTERISING COASTAL SHELF WAVES ALONG THE NSW COAST". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36v (28 de diciembre de 2020): 37. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.waves.37.
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New South Wales (NSW) often experiences periods of coastal inundation and estuarine flooding. One of the causal mechanisms of these episodes are coastal shelf waves (CSW), generated by synoptic disturbances (Church et al., 2006). CSWs in Australia often result from wind stress, mostly along mid-latitudes (e.g., the Great Australian Bight) and propagate anticlockwise (Woodham et al., 2013). However, there are no tools available for identifying and characterising CSWs and as such there is very little information on the magnitude, frequency, duration, and spatiotemporal variability. This paper aims to: (1) develop a method to identify and track CSWs using the existing ocean tide gauge network, (2) identify patterns in the frequency, duration, and magnitude of CSW, and (3) assess the factors that affect the frequency, duration, and magnitude of CSWs along the NSW coast.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/oigzYIKFBmA
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Akhmediev, Nail. "Waves that appear from nowhere". Proceedings of the Royal Society of Victoria 135, n.º 2 (22 de diciembre de 2023): 64–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1071/rs23011.
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Oceanic rogue waves belong to a well-established class of phenomena but their study is hindered due to the great danger that they represent. They exist not only at the surface of the open ocean but they also hit coastal areas as well as appear internally in deeper layers of the ocean. The amplitude of the latter may exceed several times the amplitude of rogue waves at the surface. Surface rogue waves in the deep ocean represent threat even for large ocean liners while rogue waves in shallow waters are dangerous for coastal structures. On the other hand, internal rogue waves are hazardous for submarines. The experimental research of all three types of rogue waves is difficult. The theory provides certain degree of understanding of such waves. Some of the recent achievements in this area of research are reviewed in this article.
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Meucci, Alberto, Ian R. Young, Acacia Pepler, Irina Rudeva y Agustinus Ribal. "MODELLED AND OBSERVED IMPACT OF THE APRIL 2021 SOUTHERN OCEAN STORM". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 37 (1 de septiembre de 2023): 2. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.waves.2.
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Wind-wave extreme events are a major driver of coastal erosion (Lowe et al., 2010). As such, accurate estimates of metocean extremes are crucial to implement efficient and resilient coastal defense strategies. Global wave reanalysis datasets are commonly used to estimate wind and wave statistical properties for coastal engineering purposes. However, despite the impressive accuracy of such datasets in representing average significant wave height conditions (global biases against observations of less than 5 cm), models usually underestimate metocean extremes (Cavaleri et al. 2009; Cavaleri et al., 2020). To obtain an understanding of model performance under extreme conditions, we focus on a single storm event generated in the Southern Ocean on April 7th, 2021.
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Voulgaris, George, Brian K. Haus, Paul Work, Lynn K. Shay, Harvey E. Seim, Robert H. Weisberg y James R. Nelson. "Waves Initiative within SEACOOS". Marine Technology Society Journal 42, n.º 3 (1 de septiembre de 2008): 68–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.4031/002533208786842507.
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Amongst other ocean state parameters, the development of a wave measurement program was supported as part of the Southeast U.S. Atlantic Coastal Ocean Observing System (SEACOOS). The program focused on supporting nearshore wave measurements using both cabled and autonomous systems but also examined the feasibility of using HF Radar systems for remote estimation of wave parameters. The nearshore stations have provided a significant database on directional wave climate for a number of nearshore locations in the region that provide valuable information to coastal engineers and managers for sustainable development along the coast of the southeastern United States. The ability of Wellen high-frequency radar (WERA HF) to provide wave information was evaluated through a field experiment in SE Florida. The results were encouraging and placed some initial bounds on the confidence to be associated with empirically derived wave height information. Coordination efforts for the development of a comprehensive waves program for the Southeast U.S. were initiated and contributed to the development of the National Wave Observations plan. They also led to the development of a new Regional Coastal Ocean Observing System (RCOOS) that includes developing systems in support of local weather forecast offices in their surfzone and rip-current forecasts.
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Barnez Gramcianinov, Carolina, Ricardo M. Campos y Ricardo De Camargo. "CLIMATE CHANGE PERSPECTIVES OF THE CYCLONES AND OCEANIC HAZARDS IN THE WESTERN SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN". Arquivos de Ciências do Mar 55, Especial (18 de marzo de 2022): 141–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.32360/acmar.v55iespecial.78186.
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Cyclone-related oceanic hazards, such as extreme waves and surges, are frequently reported on the western South Atlantic. These events are associated with coastal erosion, coastal infrastructure damage, maritime navigation, and offshore industry incidents, being important for safety and maintenance management in ocean engineering. Present climate trends and future projections of this event are frequently linked with the expected general poleward shift of the storm track over the globe, but regional approaches revealed a slight increase in the cyclonic activity in South America 35ºS and 40ºS, which would be restricted to the coast. However, the signals of these changes are weak and frequently of the same magnitude of model biases, producing results with a lack of confidence, especially in the coastal zone. Extreme events related to waves and surges used to present large uncertainty and heterogeneity around the globe. Most of the problems regarding future estimation rely on methodological limitations that will not overrun without collaborative efforts to the improvement of observational-based science. Taking advantage of the UN Ocean Decade goals, national and regional initiatives need to collaborate towards a robust and continuous Brazilian observational network in order to face the climate crises in the country.
Keywords: ocean wind-waves, coastal flooding, storm surge, extratropical cyclones, ocean waves, natural hazards.
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Staneva, J., K. Wahle, H. Günther y E. Stanev. "Coupling of wave and circulation models in coastal-ocean predicting systems: a case study for the German Bight". Ocean Science Discussions 12, n.º 6 (21 de diciembre de 2015): 3169–97. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/osd-12-3169-2015.
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Abstract. This study addresses the impact of coupling between wind wave and circulation models on the quality of coastal ocean predicting systems. This is exemplified for the German Bight and its coastal area known as the Wadden Sea. The latter is the area between the barrier islands and the coast. This topic reflects the increased interest in operational oceanography to reduce prediction errors of state estimates at coastal scales, which in many cases are due to unresolved nonlinear feedback between strong tidal currents and wind-waves. In this study we present analysis of wave and hydrographic observations, as well as results of numerical simulations. A nested-grid modelling system is used to producing reliable nowcasts and short-term forecasts of ocean state variables, including wind waves and hydrodynamics. The data base includes ADCP observations and continuous measurements from data stations. The individual and collective role of wind, waves and tidal forcing are quantified. The performance of the forecast system is illustrated for the cases of several extreme events. Effects of ocean waves on coastal circulation and sea level are investigated by considering the wave-dependent stress and wave breaking parameterization. Also the effects which the circulation exerts on the wind waves are tested for the coastal areas using different parameterizations. The improved skill of the coupled forecasts compared to the non-coupled ones, in particular during extreme events, justifies the further enhancements of coastal operational systems by including wind wave models.
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Grimshaw, Roger, Efim Pelinovsky y Tatiana Talipova. "Modelling Internal Solitary Waves in the Coastal Ocean". Surveys in Geophysics 28, n.º 4 (7 de julio de 2007): 273–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10712-007-9020-0.
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Yuan, T., X. Wang, K. Qu y L. B. Zhang. "Hydrodynamic Loads and Overtopping Processes of a Coastal Seawall under the Coupled Impact of Extreme Waves and Wind". Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 11, n.º 11 (31 de octubre de 2023): 2087. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse11112087.
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Driven by strong winds, huge ocean waves can cause devastating destruction to coastal regions during harsh weather events. There is growing evidence showing that extreme waves can occur in both shallow and deep waters. To protect the coast against the destructive power of huge waves, coastal protection facilities, such as seawalls, are often built along the coast. The integrity and stability of these coastal protection facilities are essential to the safety of coastal regions. Since huge waves are often accompanied by strong winds in real ocean environments, to fill the knowledge gap left by previous relevant studies, this study numerically investigates the hydrodynamic loads and overtopping of a coastal seawall model on a sloped beach under the coupled impact of an extreme wave group and wind. The influences of several main factors are considered, such as water depth, wind speed, and significant wave height. The research results reveal that strong wind can greatly increase the average overtopping rate and enhance the hydrodynamic loads exerted by the extreme wave group on the seawall.
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Shimura, Tomoya, William J. Pringle, Nobuhito Mori, Takuya Miyashita y Kohei Yoshida. "GLOBAL OCEAN WAVES AND STORM SURGE CHANGES UNDER A WARMING CLIMATE". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 37 (2 de octubre de 2023): 41. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.management.41.
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Impact assessments of climate change on coastal hazard risk are conducted in order to evaluate how coastal communities should adapt their coastal defense systems and other mitigation measures going forward. In this context, global mean sea level rise has been well-studied for several decades now. In addition, to mean sea level rise, it is important to estimate future changes in extreme sea levels due to storm surges and ocean waves for coastal adaptation purposes. This study aims to estimate the climate change impacts on both global waves and storm surges under an extremely high-resolution Global Climate Model (GCM) forcing continuously over 150 years, starting from the mid-20th century and extending to the end of the 21st century as the climate warms. This allows us to gain a consistent and temporally seamless understanding of past and projected future changes to global waves and storm surges.
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Centurioni, Luca, Sidney Thurston y Theresa Paluszkiewicz. "Sustained Open Access Global Wave Observations for Science and Society". Marine Technology Society Journal 55, n.º 3 (1 de mayo de 2021): 94–95. http://dx.doi.org/10.4031/mtsj.55.3.21.
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Abstract Studies of the generation and propagation of surface waves in the open ocean have been traditionally supported by sparse observations. Wave climatology is only known through data from expensive and heavy open ocean moorings, often not optimized for observing surface waves, coastal wave observing networks, or from satellites that can only measure the wave's amplitude. Yet, knowledge of wave physics is of fundamental importance to understand how the ocean and the atmosphere are coupled and to quantify, for example, exchanges of gas and momentum. Of similar importance is understanding how oceanic mesoscale, such as eddies and boundary currents, affect wave steepness and propagation; ultimately important to quantify, for example, hazards to navigation and to protect coastal communities from floods. Scientific advances in data assimilation and wave resolving models, which are supported by our visionary approach, are needed to improve coupled models to support extreme events modeling and forecasting and for improving climate assessment. In-situ global wave observations are one of the obviously missing key ingredients that are hampering progress in oceanography, meteorology, and climate sciences.
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Yan, Chao, James C. McWilliams y Marcelo Chamecki. "Overlapping Boundary Layers in Coastal Oceans". Journal of Physical Oceanography 52, n.º 4 (abril de 2022): 627–46. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-21-0067.1.
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Abstract Boundary layer turbulence in coastal regions differs from that in deep ocean because of bottom interactions. In this paper, we focus on the merging of surface and bottom boundary layers in a finite-depth coastal ocean by numerically solving the wave-averaged equations using a large-eddy simulation method. The ocean fluid is driven by combined effects of wind stress, surface wave, and a steady current in the presence of stable vertical stratification. The resulting flow consists of two overlapping boundary layers, i.e., surface and bottom boundary layers, separated by an interior stratification. The overlapping boundary layers evolve through three phases, i.e., a rapid deepening, an oscillatory equilibrium and a prompt merger, separated by two transitions. Before the merger, internal waves are observed in the stratified layer, and they are excited mainly by Langmuir turbulence in the surface boundary layer. These waves induce a clear modulation on the bottom-generated turbulence, facilitating the interaction between the surface and bottom boundary layers. After the merger, the Langmuir circulations originally confined to the surface layer are found to grow in size and extend down to the sea bottom (even though the surface waves do not feel the bottom), reminiscent of the well-organized Langmuir supercells. These full-depth Langmuir circulations promote the vertical mixing and enhance the bottom shear, leading to a significant enhancement of turbulence levels in the vertical column.
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Tang, Hansong, Charles Reid Nichols, Lynn Donelson Wright y Donald Resio. "Modeling Multiscale and Multiphysics Coastal Ocean Processes: A Discussion on Necessity, Status, and Advances". Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, n.º 8 (5 de agosto de 2021): 847. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9080847.
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Coastal ocean flows are interconnected by a complex suite of processes. Examples are inlet jets, river mouth effluents, ocean currents, surface gravity waves, internal waves, wave overtopping, and wave slamming on coastal structures. It has become necessary to simulate such oceanographic phenomena directly and simultaneously in many disciplines, including coastal engineering, environmental science, and marine science. Oceanographic processes exhibit distinct behaviors at specific temporal and spatial scales, and they are multiscale, multiphysics in nature; these processes are described by different sets of governing equations and are often modeled individually. In order to draw the attention of the scientific community and promote their simulations, a Special Issue of the Journal of Marine Science and Engineering entitled “Multiscale, Multiphysics Modelling of Coastal Ocean Processes: Paradigms and Approaches” was published. The papers collected in this issue cover physical phenomena, such as wind-driven flows, coastal flooding, turbidity currents, and modeling techniques such as model comparison, model coupling, parallel computation, and domain decomposition. This article outlines the needs for modeling of coastal ocean flows involving multiple physical processes at different scales, and it discusses the implications of the collected papers. Additionally, it reviews the current status and offers a roadmap with numerical methods, data collection, and artificial intelligence as future endeavors.
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Lynett, Patrick J. y Sasan Tavakkol. "INTERACTIVE AND IMMERSIVE COASTAL HYDRODYNAMIC SIMULATION". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36 (30 de diciembre de 2018): 63. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.63.
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In this presentation, we will discuss the development and application of a GPU-based Boussinesq-type wave model. The novelty of this approach is that it is meant to serve the primary purpose of being interactive – allowing the user to modify the boundary conditions and model parameters as the model is running, and to see the effect of these changes immediately. To accomplish this, the model is coded in a shader language environment, and our physical variables (e.g. ocean surface elevation, water velocity) are represented in the model as textures, which can be rapidly rendered and visualized via a GPU. This software can help scientists better understand nearshore wave dynamics as it allows them to observe wave interactions in real-time and modify the boundary conditions and model parameters as the model is running to see the effect of these changes immediately. The model is named “Celerisâ€, and is released under the GNU (open-source, open-access) license.
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Hegermiller, Christie A., John C. Warner, Maitane Olabarrieta y Christopher R. Sherwood. "Wave–Current Interaction between Hurricane Matthew Wave Fields and the Gulf Stream". Journal of Physical Oceanography 49, n.º 11 (noviembre de 2019): 2883–900. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-19-0124.1.
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AbstractHurricanes interact with the Gulf Stream in the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) through a wide variety of processes, which are crucial to understand for prediction of open-ocean and coastal hazards during storms. However, it remains unclear how waves are modified by large-scale ocean currents under storm conditions, when waves are aligned with the storm-driven circulation and tightly coupled to the overlying wind field. Hurricane Matthew (2016) impacted the U.S. Southeast coast, causing extensive coastal change due to large waves and elevated water levels. The hurricane traveled on the continental shelf parallel to the SAB coastline, with the right side of the hurricane directly over the Gulf Stream. Using the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport modeling system, we investigate wave–current interaction between Hurricane Matthew and the Gulf Stream. The model simulates ocean currents and waves over a grid encompassing the U.S. East Coast, with varied coupling of the hydrodynamic and wave components to isolate the effect of the currents on the waves, and the effect of the Gulf Stream relative to storm-driven circulation. The Gulf Stream modifies the direction of the storm-driven currents beneath the right side of the hurricane. Waves transitioned from following currents that result in wave lengthening, through negative current gradients that result in wave steepening and dissipation. Wave–current interaction over the Gulf Stream modified maximum coastal total water levels and changed incident wave directions at the coast by up to 20°, with strong implications for the morphodynamic response and stability of the coast to the hurricane.
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Sun, Meng, Yongzeng Yang, Yutao Chi, Tianqi Sun, Yongfang Shi y Zengrui Rong. "Influence of Storm Tidal Current Field and Sea Bottom Slope on Coastal Ocean Waves during Typhoon Malakas". Remote Sensing 13, n.º 22 (22 de noviembre de 2021): 4722. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs13224722.
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Wave–current interaction in coastal regions is significant and complicated. Most wave models consider the influence of ocean current and water depth on waves, while the influence of the gradient of the sea bottom slope is not taken into account in most research. This study aimed to analyze and quantify the contribution of storm tidal currents to coastal ocean waves in a case where sea bottom slope was not ignored. Fourier analysis was applied to solve the governing equation and boundary conditions, and an analytic model for the calculation of the variation of amplitude of wave orbital motion was proposed. Ocean currents affect ocean waves through resonance. In this paper, an implemented instance of this analytic model was given, using the Shengsi area during Typhoon Malakas as an example. The results suggest that vertical variation in the amplitude of wave orbital motion is remarkable. The impact of wave–current interaction is noticeable where the gradient of the sea bottom slope is relatively large.
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Mitsudera, Humio y Kimio Hanawa. "Frictional coastal trapped waves in a two-layered ocean". Journal of Fluid Mechanics 198, n.º -1 (enero de 1989): 453. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112089000212.
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Dinh, Cham Dao y Nguyen Van Lai. "Research on wave regimes at the Cua Dai estuary, Quang Nam". Tạp chí Khoa học và Công nghệ biển 19, n.º 4 (27 de marzo de 2020): 489–96. http://dx.doi.org/10.15625/1859-3097/19/4/14900.
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In coastal area of the Cua Dai estuary - Quang Nam province, the processes of erosion-accretion strongly occur. Over this area, the ocean wave is a dynamical factor that directly affects the coastal areas causing erosion-accretion processes. This paper presents an evaluation of the ocean wave regime impacting the areas of Cua Dai estuary by using the model of MIKE21SW. The purpose of this study is to fully interprete the role of dynamical factor, ocean wave in erosion-accretion processes. The results showed a convergence of ocean waves at the estuary of Cua Dai although it is obstructed by the Cu Lao Cham island in front of the Cua Dai estuary. The northeast and north-northeast waves are mainly prevailing with the frequency of more than 60% in the year.
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Musgrave, R. C. "Energy Fluxes in Coastal Trapped Waves". Journal of Physical Oceanography 49, n.º 12 (diciembre de 2019): 3061–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-18-0172.1.
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AbstractThe calculation of energy flux in coastal trapped wave modes is reviewed in the context of tidal energy pathways near the coast. The significant barotropic pressures and currents associated with coastal trapped wave modes mean that large errors in estimating the wave flux are incurred if only the baroclinic component is considered. A specific example is given showing that baroclinic flux constitutes only 10% of the flux in a mode-1 wave for a reasonable choice of stratification and bathymetry. The interpretation of baroclinic energy flux and barotropic-to-baroclinic conversion at the coast is discussed: in contrast to the open ocean, estimates of baroclinic energy flux do not represent a wave energy flux; neither does conversion represent the scattering of energy from the tidal Kelvin wave to higher modes.
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Mohtat, Ali, Casey Fagley, Kedar C. Chitale y Stefan G. Siegel. "Efficiency analysis of the cycloidal wave energy convertor under real-time dynamic control using a 3D radiation model". International Marine Energy Journal 5, n.º 1 (14 de junio de 2022): 45–56. http://dx.doi.org/10.36688/imej.5.45-56.
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Ocean waves provide a vast, uninterrupted resource of renewable energy collocated around large coastal population centers. Clean energy from ocean waves can contribute to the local electrical grid without the need for long-term electrical storage, yet due to the current high cost of energy extraction from ocean waves, there is no commercial ocean wave farm in operation. One of the wave energy converter (WEC) device classes that show the potential to enable economic energy generation from ocean waves is the class of wave terminators. This work investigates the Cycloidal Wave Energy Converter (CycWEC), which is a one-sided, lift-based wave terminator operating with coupled hydrofoils. The energy that the CycWEC extracted from ocean waves was estimated using a control volume analysis model of the 3D wave field in the presence of the CycWEC. The CycWEC was operated under feedback control to extract the maximum amount of energy possible from the incoming waves, and the interaction with different incoming regular, irregular, and short crested waves was examined.
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Mendoza, Edgar y Mireille Escudero. "REVISITING WAVE PROPAGATION UNDER AIR FLOW IN COASTAL AREAS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 37 (1 de septiembre de 2023): 14. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.waves.14.
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The interaction between ocean waves and winds can be separated into two main analyses. A first interaction considers the wind as the primary wave generator. The mechanism through which wind exerts stresses to the water surface that combined with the gravity forces produce the surface oscillatory flow known as waves, is relatively well documented theoretically (Blennerhassett 1980), experimentally (Plate et al. 1969) and numerically (Liu et al. 2016). On the other hand, as waves travel to the coast, winds stop being the generating force and turn into an energy source travelling along with the waves. In places close to the shore, winds can be directed with or against the wave propagation. It is straightforward that wave properties close to the shore are modified under different wind conditions (Xie 2017). Numerical and experimental studies on wave-wind interaction near the coast and in presence of obstacles exist but are still scarce (Medina 2001). The present research is an experimental study of the perturbation produced by an air flow over waves in shallow waters and interacting with sloped obstacles. Well-known phenomena such as wave braking, steepening and run-up are revisited under wave-wind conditions.
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Juma, Ibrahim Mohammad, Noora Mohammed Hokal y Gagan Kumar Jena. "OPERATIONAL FORECASTING SYSTEM FOR DUBAI COASTAL WATERS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36 (30 de diciembre de 2018): 23. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.23.
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The abstract is based on decision support system for Dubai Coastal Zone and Waterway Operations. This is a sophisticated project to couple a suite of meteorology and ocean models with data management infrastructure and web-based tools to deliver data and decision support information to Dubai Municipality as well as public users. The latest open-source modeling technology available from the research and academic communities to build an operational forecast system that is a suite of interconnected components that allows for seamless interaction of different models, real-time data, and custom web-based reports and tools that access model forecasts and real-time observations. This included measurements taken in the Dubai coastal zone, satellite and atmospheric measurements across the Arabian Gulf, and from a variety of online global environmental models. The data specifically used to create each of the meteorological, hydrodynamic, spectral wave, inundation and oil-spill models. The circulation modeling studies of the Arabian Gulf were carried out by Kampf (2006), Thoppil (2010) and Xue and Eltahir (2015).
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Staneva, Joanna, Kathrin Wahle, Heinz Günther y Emil Stanev. "Coupling of wave and circulation models in coastal–ocean predicting systems: a case study for the German Bight". Ocean Science 12, n.º 3 (15 de junio de 2016): 797–806. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/os-12-797-2016.
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Abstract. This study addresses the impact of coupling between wave and circulation models on the quality of coastal ocean predicting systems. This is exemplified for the German Bight and its coastal area known as the Wadden Sea. The latter is the area between the barrier islands and the coast. This topic reflects the increased interest in operational oceanography to reduce prediction errors of state estimates at coastal scales, which in many cases are due to unresolved non-linear feedback between strong currents and wind waves. In this study we present analysis of wave and hydrographic observations, as well as results of numerical simulations. A nested-grid modelling system is used to produce reliable nowcasts and short-term forecasts of ocean state variables, including waves and hydrodynamics. The database includes ADCP observations and continuous measurements from data stations. The individual and combined effects of wind, waves and tidal forcing are quantified. The performance of the forecast system is illustrated for the cases of several extreme events. The combined role of wave effects on coastal circulation and sea level are investigated by considering the wave-dependent stress and wave breaking parameterization. Also the response, which the circulation exerts on the waves, is tested for the coastal areas. The improved skill of the coupled forecasts compared to the non-coupled ones, in particular during extreme events, justifies the further enhancements of coastal operational systems by including wave effects in circulation models.
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You, Zai Jin, Peter Nielsen, David Hanslow y Tim Pritchard. "ELEVATED WATER LEVELS AT TRAINED RIVER ENTRANCES". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, n.º 33 (14 de diciembre de 2012): 48. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.48.
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The south-east coast of Australia has many low-lying areas at river entrances that are vulnerable to coastal inundation due to high water levels elevated by ocean tides, coastal storms, ocean waves and other drivers. The penetration of elevated entrance water levels into rivers can further intensify river flooding associated with high rainfall events. In this study, historical water level data, which were collected continuously at 17 inshore and 5 offshore permanent tide stations along the East Coast of Australia, are used to study effects of tides and waves on water levels at trained river entrances and also to estimate extreme entrance water levels without major entrance rainfall-related flooding.
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Centurioni, Luca, Lance Braasch, Enrico Di Lauro, Pasquale Contestabile, Francesco De Leo, Raffaella Casotti, Leopoldo Franco y Diego Vicinanza. "A NEW STRATEGIC WAVE MEASUREMENT STATION OFF NAPLES PORT MAIN BREAKWATER". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 35 (23 de junio de 2017): 36. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.waves.36.
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The accuracy of directional wave spectra sensors is crucial for obtaining accurate forecasts of ocean and coastal wave conditions for scientific and engineering applications. In this paper, a newly designed, low-cost GPS-based wave buoy, called the Directional Wave Spectra Drifter (DWSD), is presented. A field test campaign was conducted at the Gulf of Naples, Italy with the goal of comparing the directional wave properties obtained with the DWSD and with a nearly co-located bottom-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) from Teledyne RD-Instruments. The comparison shows a very good agreement between the two methodologies. The reliability of this innovative instrument and its low costs allow a large variety of applications, including the implementation of a global, satellite-linked, real-time open-ocean network of drifting directional wave spectra sensors and monitoring the sea-state in harbors to aid ship transit and for planning coastal and offshore constructions. The DWSD is currently in use to better constrain the wave energy climatology with the goal of optimizing the design of a full-scale prototype Wave Energy Converter (WEC) in the port of Naples, Italy.
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Li, Xiao-Ming, Tianyu Zhang, Bingqing Huang y Tong Jia. "Capabilities of Chinese Gaofen-3 Synthetic Aperture Radar in Selected Topics for Coastal and Ocean Observations". Remote Sensing 10, n.º 12 (30 de noviembre de 2018): 1929. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs10121929.
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Gaofen-3 (GF-3), the first Chinese spaceborne synthetic aperture radar (SAR) in C-band for civil applications, was launched on August 2016. Some studies have examined the use of GF-3 SAR data for ocean and coastal observations, but these studies generally focus on one particular application. As GF-3 has been in operation over two years, it is essential to evaluate its performance in ocean observation, a primary goal of the GF-3 launch. In this paper, we offer an overview demonstrating the capabilities of GF-3 SAR in ocean and coastal observations by presenting several representative cases, i.e., the monitoring of intertidal flats, offshore tidal turbulent wakes and oceanic internal waves, to highlight the GF-3’s full polarimetry, high spatial resolution and wide-swath imaging advantages. Moreover, we also present a detailed analysis of the use of GF-3 quad-polarization data for sea surface wind retrievals and wave mode data for sea surface wave retrievals. The case studies and statistical analysis suggest that GF-3 has good ocean and coastal monitoring capabilities, though further improvements are possible, particularly in radiometric calibration and stable image quality.
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Sun, Shu-zheng, Hui Li y Hui Sun. "Measurement and Analysis of Coastal Waves Along The North Sea Area of China". Polish Maritime Research 23, n.º 3 (1 de septiembre de 2016): 72–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/pomr-2016-0034.
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Abstract Taking advantage of coastal wave environment to carry out scaled ship model test is an effective testing technology for ship performance. In this paper, the method of spectral analysis is adopted to calculate the significant wave height, period, wave spectrum and some other parameters of some places along the North Sea area of China. The measured wave spectrum and the ocean spectrum are handled into non-dimensional form to evaluate their similarity. The influence of wind direction and tide on coastal waves was analyzed. And the results indicate that the coastal wave spectrum is similar to the ocean spectrum under some specific conditions.
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Lin, Lihwa, Zeki Demirbilek, Jinhai Zheng y Hajime Mase. "RAPID CALCULATION OF NONLINEAR WAVE-WAVE INTERACTIONS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, n.º 32 (27 de enero de 2011): 36. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.36.
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This paper presents an efficient numerical algorithm for the nonlinear wave-wave interactions that can be important in the evolution of coastal waves. Indeed, ocean waves truly interact with each others. However, because ocean waves can also interact with the atmosphere such as under variable wind and pressure fields, and waves will deform from deep to shallow water, it is generally difficult to differentiate the actual amount of the nonlinear energy transfer among spectral waves mixed with the atmospheric input and wave breaking. The classical derivation of the nonlinear wave energy transfer has involved tedious numerical calculation that appears impractical to the engineering application. The present study proposed a theoretically based formulation to efficiently calculate nonlinear wave-wave interactions in the spectral wave transformation equation. It is approved to perform well in both idealized and real application examples. This rapid calculation algorithm indicates the nonlinear energy transfer is more significant in the intermediate depth than in deep and shallow water conditions.
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Dongeren, Ap van. "WAVES ON REEFS: HOW CORAL REEFS TRANSFORM OCEAN WAVES AND HELP PROTECT COASTS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36v (31 de diciembre de 2020): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.keynote.5.
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Coral reefs help protect tropical islands and coasts against wave-induced flooding. Because ongoing population growth in coastal zones, sea level rise and coral reef degradation, flooding and subsequent damages will likely increase in the future. In this presentation we discuss our current knowledge of the physics of wave transformation on reefs derived from observations and modelling. We will also discuss research questions and data needs.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/JvTmDnoy8E0
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Mosquera, K. "Numerical study of the response of the ocean to a northerly wind jet in the equatorial Eastern Pacific". Advances in Geosciences 14 (10 de abril de 2008): 239–42. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/adgeo-14-239-2008.
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Abstract. The response of the equatorial and South American coastal ocean circulation to the anomalous March 2002 wind jet extending from the Gulf of Panama to 6° S is studied in a linear ocean model. Two experiments were performed: one without continental boundaries and the other with an eastern boundary at 81° W, representing the American continent. The spatial and temporal structure of the imposed wind anomaly, represented with idealized mathematical functions, is similar to that of the real jet. The duration of the wind jet was six days where the maximum intensity occurred at the third day. The results of the experiments indicate that the wind-jet anomaly over the Gulf of Panama is another source of ocean waves that influence the western coast of South America in the form of coastal Kelvin waves (CKW).
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Baquero-Bernal, Astrid y Mojib Latif. "Wind-Driven Oceanic Rossby Waves in the Tropical South Indian Ocean with and without an Active ENSO". Journal of Physical Oceanography 35, n.º 5 (1 de mayo de 2005): 729–46. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo2723.1.
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Abstract The interannual heat content variability in the tropical south Indian Ocean (SIO) and its relationship with El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) is studied. The baroclinic ocean response to stochastic wind stress predicted by a simple analytical model is compared with two integrations of the ECHO-G coupled general circulation model. In one integration, ocean–atmosphere interactions are suppressed in the tropical Pacific Ocean, so that this integration does not simulate ENSO. In the other integration, interactions are allowed everywhere and ENSO is simulated. The results show that basinwide variability in the SIO heat content can be produced by two mechanisms: 1) oscillatory forcing by ENSO-related wind stress and 2) temporally stochastic and spatially coherent wind stress forcing. Previous studies have shown that transmission of energy from the tropical Pacific to the southern Indian Ocean occurs through coastal Kelvin waves along the western coast of Australia. The results in this paper confirm the occurrence of such transmission. In the ECHO-G simulations, this transmission occurs both at the annual time scale and at interannual time scales. Generation of offshore Rossby waves by these coastal Kelvin waves at interannual time scales—and, in particular, at the ENSO time scale—was found.
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Dong, Zhifei y James T. Kirby. "THEORETICAL AND NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION IN STRONGLY-SHEARED FLOWS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, n.º 33 (15 de diciembre de 2012): 2. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.2.
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The application of wave-current interaction theory in ocean circulation models has been extensively developed over the past decade, with formulations extended to three dimensions and based either on radiation stress formulations or on the Craik-Leibovich formulation. However, few of these studies consider the interaction of waves with relatively strongly sheared current, in which current shear can affect linear wave dynamics at leading order. The problem arises from the study of the evolution of highly concentrated sediment plumes developing at the mouth of small mountainous rivers. Although the annually averaged discharge of these small mountainous rivers is trivial compared to large rivers, during the extreme flooding events triggered by typhoon or tropic cyclones, these rivers, most of which located at tectonically active mountain belts, can carry highly concentrated sediment ( up to several g/l in the river plume) into the ocean. The magnitude of river discharge velocity at the river mouth may reach several m/s, comparable to the wave phase speed in coastal water. In addition, these flooding events usually coincide with very energetic wave conditions induced by the storms. Therefore, the interaction of waves with strongly sheared current becomes a very important dynamic process at this kind of river plumes. In our study, we establish a new framework to describe the interaction of small amplitude surface gravity waves and strongly sheared currents, where shear can exist in both vertical and horizontal directions. To begin with, we limit the derivation to the case of a narrow-banded slowly varying wave train propagating shoreward in the coastal ocean outside of the surf zone. Accordingly, our problem is assumed to be finite depth without wave breaking. Later we can extend the formulation to describe a spectrum of surface waves and include wave energy dissipation. In contrast to existing formulations, where waves at most feel a weighted depth-average current which follows from a weak-current, weak-shear approximation, the present formulation allows for an arbitrary degree of vertical shear, leading to a description of the vertical structure of waves in terms of solutions to the Rayleigh stability equation. The resulting formulation leads to a conservation law for wave action, and forcing terms for the description of mean flow using the Craik-Leibovich vortex force formulation. This new framework of wave-current interaction can be applied to numerical model based on ROMS/SWAN to study dynamics in coastal waters.
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Muscarella, Philip, Kelsey Brunner y David Walker. "Estimating Coastal Winds by Assimilating High-Frequency Radar Spectrum Data in SWAN". Sensors 21, n.º 23 (24 de noviembre de 2021): 7811. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/s21237811.
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Many activities require accurate wind and wave forecasts in the coastal ocean. The assimilation of fixed buoy observations into spectral wave models such as SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) can provide improved estimates of wave forecasts fields. High-frequency (HF) radar observations provide a spatially expansive dataset in the coastal ocean for assimilation into wave models. A forward model for the HF Doppler spectrum based on first- and second-order Bragg scattering was developed to assimilate the HF radar wave observations into SWAN. This model uses the spatially varying wave spectra computed using the SWAN model, forecast currents from the Navy Coastal Ocean Model (NCOM), and system parameters from the HF radar sites to predict time-varying range-Doppler maps. Using an adjoint of the HF radar model, the error between these predictions and the corresponding HF Doppler spectrum observations can be translated into effective wave-spectrum errors for assimilation in the SWAN model for use in correcting the wind forcing in SWAN. The initial testing and validation of this system have been conducted using data from ten HF radar sites along the Southern California Bight during the CASPER-West experiment in October 2017. The improved winds compare positively to independent observation data, demonstrating that this algorithm can be utilized to fill an observational gap in the coastal ocean for winds and waves.
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Banihashemi, Saeideh, James T. Kirby, Fengyan Shi y Zhifei Dong. "WAVES AND STRONGLY SHEARED CURRENTS: EXTENSIONS TO COASTAL OCEAN MODELS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36 (30 de diciembre de 2018): 40. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.40.
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Significant progress has been made in the numerical modeling of wave-current interaction during the past decade. Typical coastal circulation and wave models, however, still only employ theoretical formulations which take depth-uniform mean flows into account, with realistic, non-uniform flows treated as being depth uniform through some chosen averaging procedure. Depending on the choice of average over depth, significant errors may arise in the estimation of properties such as group velocity and action density in realistic conditions. These errors, in turn, are fed back into the circulation model through incorrect representation of the vertical structure of wave forcing. A new framework for wave-current interaction theory for strongly sheared mean flows has been developed using vortex force formalism by Dong (2016). The resulting formulation leads to a conservation law for wave action identical to that of Voronovich (1976), and to expressions for wave-averaged forces in the Craik-Leibovich vortex force formalism. In this study, we are completing the development of a coupled NHWAVE/SWAN which implements the wave forcing formulation of Dong (2016) in a wave-averaged version of the non-hydrostatic model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The SWAN model is also being extended to incorporate a better representation of frequency and direction-dependent group velocity and intrinsic frequency in the neighborhood of the spectral peak, thus improving on the present practice of using quantities evaluated only at the spectral peak. The resulting model is being tested against field data collected in several recent experiments involving strong, vertically sheared currents in river mouths or straits.
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Camus, Paula, Fernando J. Mendez, Raul Medina, Antonio Tomas y Cristina Izaguirre. "High resolution downscaled ocean waves (DOW) reanalysis in coastal areas". Coastal Engineering 72 (febrero de 2013): 56–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.09.002.
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Power, Hannah E., Michael A. Kinsela, Caio E. Stringari, Murray J. Kendall y David J. Hanslow. "WAVE OVERWASH ON A ROCK PLATFORM: REMOTE SENSING AND PRESSURE SENSOR OBSERVATIONS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36 (30 de diciembre de 2018): 29. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.29.
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Open ocean rocky shore platforms are typically exposed to high wave energy and are often the location of recreational activities from sightseeing and walking to fishing (Kennedy et al. 2017). The exposure of these environments, combined with the use for recreation, results in a high level of risk for those who use the rock platform. In Australia, for example, 19% of coastal fatalities occur on rock coasts, most commonly when individuals fall from microtidal semi-horizontal platforms into the ocean (SLSA, 2014a,b). Managing the hazards and resultant risk on rocky shore platforms requires a different approach to that taken for sandy beaches as the sites are typically remote. Here we explore the wave overwash hazards on a remote but high visitation rocky shore platform 40 km south of Sydney, Australia.
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Kusahara, Kazuya y Kay I. Ohshima. "Kelvin Waves around Antarctica". Journal of Physical Oceanography 44, n.º 11 (1 de noviembre de 2014): 2909–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-14-0051.1.
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Abstract The Southern Ocean allows circumpolar structure and the Antarctic coastline plays a role as a waveguide for oceanic Kelvin waves. Under the cyclic conditions, the horizontal wavenumbers and frequencies for circumpolarly propagating waves are quantized, with horizontal wavenumbers 1, 2, and 3, corresponding to periods of about 32, 16, and 11 h, respectively. At these frequencies, westward-propagating signals are detected in sea level variation observed at Antarctic coastal stations. The occurrence frequency of westward-propagating signals far exceeds the statistical significance, and the phase speed of the observed signal agrees well with the theoretical phase speed of external Kelvin waves. Therefore, this study concludes that the observed, westward-propagating sea level variability is a signal of the external Kelvin waves of wavenumbers 1, 2, and 3 around Antarctica. A series of numerical model experiments confirms that Kelvin waves around Antarctica are driven by surface air pressure and that these waves are excited not only by local forcing over the Southern Ocean, but also by remote forcing over the Pacific Ocean. Sea level variations generated over the Pacific Ocean can travel to the western side of the South American coast and cross over Drake Passage to the Antarctic continent, constituting a part of the Kelvin waves around Antarctica.
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Achiari, Hendra, Nanda Nurisman, Ayu Libiaty Ahmad y Endang Setiawati. "The Coastal Hydrodynamics Analysis in The Lampung Bay". IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science 830, n.º 1 (1 de septiembre de 2021): 012037. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/830/1/012037.
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Abstract The waves play a major role in the hydrodynamics of the sea, which they are very influential on human activities in the ocean. Thus, the knowledge of the waves conditions can provide many advantages, this is a challenge for marine experts in modeling ocean dynamics. The coastal area of Lampung Bay is one of the most densely populated areas in Bandar Lampung. The economic situation in the coastal area of Lampung Bay has been developing for a long time, this can be seen from the many old buildings in the coastal area. The existence of extreme waves in Lampung Bay can be as a concern for determining disaster mitigation planning and zoning around Lampung Bay. Based on the result of tidal analysis using the formzhal number equation, it is known that the type of tides in the research sites is mixed (semi-diurnal dominant) tidal type. According to simulating model of the wave characteristics in Lampung Bay, the sea characteristics can be divided into two, namely slight sea for deep waters of Lampung Bay with a wave height of 0 - 1.25 meters, and moderate sea for waters at the mouth of Lampung Bay with a wave heights of 1.25 - 2.5 meters.
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Fang, Yang y Guo. "Hydrodynamic Performance of Submerged Plates During Focused Waves". Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, n.º 11 (31 de octubre de 2019): 389. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7110389.
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Submerged horizontal plates are widely employed in research of wave structure interaction as a simplification of coastal and ocean engineering structures. The hydrodynamic performance of submerged horizontal plates under focused waves has been seldom reported. Based on potential flow theory, this paper presents a general solution of the hydrodynamic pressure and wave forces exerted on submerged plates by a focused wave group. An existing experiment and two limiting cases are used to validate the accuracy of the present analytical model. With the validated model, the effect of wave properties and the configuration of the wave structure system on the hydrodynamic performance of submerged plates are investigated. It is found that the hydrodynamic performance of submerged horizontal plates varies with incident focused wave with different peak frequencies. The structural breadth significantly changes the hydrodynamic performance while the structural height has little influence. This paper shows the usefulness of potential flow theory for the preliminary calculation of wave loads on coastal and ocean engineering structures generated by focused waves.
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Fuhrman, David R. y Bjarke Eltard Larsen. "A SOLUTION TO THE OVER-PRODUCTION OF TURBULENCE BENEATH SURFACE WAVES IN RANS MODELS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36 (30 de diciembre de 2018): 33. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.33.
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CFD simulations of breaking waves with RANS models over the past 20 years have shown a marked tendency to severely over-predict turbulence levels, both outside and within the surf zone. The reason is most likely due to the inherent instability of turbulence closure models, as originally diagnosed by Mayer & Madsen (2000). While they proposed an ad-hoc fix, a fundamentally sound solution to this wide-spread problem has, to date, eluded the coastal and ocean engineering modeling community.
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Daniels, Ralph, Daryl Metters y John Ryan. "WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER PALM BEACH REEF". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 37 (1 de septiembre de 2023): 46. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.waves.46.
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Ocean wave parameters are influenced by shallowing water depth and varying bottom topography. Modelling and in-situ studies have found that as waves propagate over a reef, interaction in the form of friction with the shallower reef can alter wave height, wave period, wavelength, and wave direction. Submerged structures such as coral and rock-based reefs provide an uncertain amount of shoreline protection. Quantifying wave transformation over submerged structures will inform and aid in the design of future coastal protections.
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Srinivasan, Margaret y Vardis Tsontos. "Satellite Altimetry for Ocean and Coastal Applications: A Review". Remote Sensing 15, n.º 16 (9 de agosto de 2023): 3939. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs15163939.
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More than 30 years of observations from an international suite of satellite altimeter missions continue to provide key data enabling research discoveries and a broad spectrum of operational and user-driven applications. These missions were designed to advance technologies and to answer scientific questions about ocean circulation, ocean heat content, and the impact of climate change on these Earth systems. They are also a valuable resource for the operational needs of oceanographic and weather forecasting agencies that provide information to shipping and fishing vessels and offshore operations for route optimization and safety, as well as for other decision makers in coastal, water resources, and disaster management fields. This time series of precise measurements of ocean surface topography (OST)—the “hills and valleys” of the ocean surface—reveals changes in ocean dynamic topography, tracks sea level variations at global to regional scales, and provides key information about ocean trends reflecting climate change in our warming world. Advancing technologies in new satellite systems allows measurements at higher spatial resolution ever closer to coastlines, where the impacts of storms, waves, and sea level rise on coastal communities and infrastructure are manifest. We review some collaborative efforts of international space agencies, including NASA, CNES, NOAA, ESA, and EUMETSAT, which have contributed to a collection of use cases of satellite altimetry in operational and decision-support contexts. The extended time series of ocean surface topography measurements obtained from these satellite altimeter missions, along with advances in satellite technology that have allowed for higher resolution measurements nearer to coasts, has enabled a range of such applications. The resulting body of knowledge and data enables better assessments of storms, waves, and sea level rise impacts on coastal communities and infrastructure amongst other key contributions for societal benefit. Although not exhaustive, this review provides a broad overview with specific examples of the important role of satellite altimetry in ocean and coastal applications, thus justifying the significant resource contributions made by international space agencies in the development of these missions.
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Silva, R., I. J. Losada y M. A. Losada. "Reflection and transmission of tsunami waves by coastal structures". Applied Ocean Research 22, n.º 4 (agosto de 2000): 215–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0141-1187(00)00012-2.
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Chang, Che-Wei y Philip Li-Fan Liu. "Long waves dissipation and harmonic generation by coastal vegetation". Applied Ocean Research 82 (enero de 2019): 210–24. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2018.10.001.
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Troch, Peter, Vicky Stratigaki, Peter Devriese, Andreas Kortenhaus, Jeroen De Maeyer, Jaak Monbaliu, Erik Toorman et al. "DESIGN FEATURES OF THE UPCOMING COASTAL AND OCEAN BASIN IN OSTEND, BELGIUM". Coastal Engineering Proceedings, n.º 36 (30 de diciembre de 2018): 94. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.papers.94.
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The new Coastal and Ocean Basin (COB) located at the Greenbridge Science Park in Ostend, Belgium is under construction since February 2017. The laboratory will provide a versatile facility that will make a wide range of physical modelling studies possible, including the ability to generate waves in combination with currents and wind at a wide range of model scales. The facility is serving the needs in Flanders, Belgium, in the fields of mainly offshore renewable energy and coastal engineering. The COB will allow users to conduct tests for coastal and offshore engineering research and commercial projects. The basin will have state-of-the-art generating and absorbing wavemakers, a current generation system, and a wind generator. It will be possible to generate waves and currents in the same, opposite and oblique directions. The basin is expected to be operational in 2019. This paper presents an overview of the basin’s capabilities, the ongoing work, and selected results from the design of the COB.
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Wise, Anthony, Chris W. Hughes, Jeff A. Polton y John M. Huthnance. "Leaky Slope Waves and Sea Level: Unusual Consequences of the Beta Effect along Western Boundaries with Bottom Topography and Dissipation". Journal of Physical Oceanography 50, n.º 1 (enero de 2020): 217–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-19-0084.1.
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ABSTRACTCoastal trapped waves (CTWs) carry the ocean’s response to changes in forcing along boundaries and are important mechanisms in the context of coastal sea level and the meridional overturning circulation. Motivated by the western boundary response to high-latitude and open-ocean variability, we use a linear, barotropic model to investigate how the latitude dependence of the Coriolis parameter (β effect), bottom topography, and bottom friction modify the evolution of western boundary CTWs and sea level. For annual and longer period waves, the boundary response is characterized by modified shelf waves and a new class of leaky slope waves that propagate alongshore, typically at an order slower than shelf waves, and radiate short Rossby waves into the interior. Energy is not only transmitted equatorward along the slope, but also eastward into the interior, leading to the dissipation of energy locally and offshore. The β effect and friction result in shelf and slope waves that decay alongshore in the direction of the equator, decreasing the extent to which high-latitude variability affects lower latitudes and increasing the penetration of open-ocean variability onto the shelf—narrower continental shelves and larger friction coefficients increase this penetration. The theory is compared with observations of sea level along the North American east coast and qualitatively reproduces the southward displacement and amplitude attenuation of coastal sea level relative to the open ocean. The implications are that the β effect, topography, and friction are important in determining where along the coast sea level variability hot spots occur.
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Park, Seongjun y Tae-Kyung Hong. "Typhoon-Induced Microseisms around the South China Sea". Seismological Research Letters 91, n.º 6 (9 de septiembre de 2020): 3454–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1785/0220190310.
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Abstract Microseisms in frequencies of 0.05–0.5 Hz are a presentation of solid earth response to the ocean waves that are developed by atmospheric pressure change. The South China Sea provides a natural laboratory with a closed ocean environment to examine the influence of regional factors on microseism development as well as the nature of microseisms. The microseisms induced by typhoons crossing over the South China Sea are investigated. Typhoons are typical transient sources of varying strengths and locations. Primary microseisms develop nearly stationary in the northeastern South China Sea for most typhoons, suggesting effective environment for excitation of primary microseisms. Typhoon-induced secondary microseisms develop around the typhoon paths with time delays varying up to one day. Typhoon-induced microseism amplitudes are proportional to the ocean-wave amplitudes in the source regions, decaying with distance. Ocean waves develop following the typhoons for days. The dominant frequency of typhoon-induced microseisms increases with time due to the influence of dispersive ocean waves. The microseisms are affected by regional factors including crustal structures, coastal geometry, ocean depth, and ocean-bottom topography.
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Ismail, N. M., R. L. Wiegel, P. J. Ryan y S. W. Tu. "MIXING OF THERMAL DISCHARGES IN COASTAL WATERS". Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, n.º 21 (29 de enero de 1988): 187. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.187.
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Mixing of thermal effluents, being discharged from thermal power plants on coastlines and which head into surface waves was investigated by analyzing extensive field and laboratory data on plume and ocean ambient conditions. Emphasis was given on the effect of waves and surf zone currents on the modifications of plume surface area and vertical temperature profile in the near-field area. The results of this investigation showed that large opposing waves increase the plume surface area, in the vicinity of the outfall, for all cases of tide level and wave direction. Moreover, waves focused cold bottom currents on the discharge outlet and consequently the temperature of the released warm water was decreased at the surface and near the bottom. Wave-induced cross flows decreased the plume cumulative surface area which corresponded to fractional excess temperature ranging between 0.8 and 0.5 normalized values. This decrease was shown to be contingent that there is no interaction between the far-field and near-field plume waters. Gradient of wave momentum flux across surf zone was found to be necessary parameter to characterize the incident wave field.
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Soares, J., I. Wainer y N. C. Wells. "Reflection of equatorial Kelvin waves at eastern ocean boundaries Part I: hypothetical boundaries". Annales Geophysicae 17, n.º 6 (30 de junio de 1999): 812–26. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00585-999-0812-z.
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Abstract. A baroclinic shallow-water model is developed to investigate the effect of the orientation of the eastern ocean boundary on the behavior of equatorial Kelvin waves. The model is formulated in a spherical polar coordinate system and includes dissipation and non-linear terms, effects which have not been previously included in analytical approaches to the problem. Both equatorial and middle latitude response are considered given the large latitudinal extent used in the model. Baroclinic equatorial Kelvin waves of intraseasonal, seasonal and annual periods are introduced into the domain as pulses of finite width. Their subsequent reflection, transmission and dissipation are investigated. It is found that dissipation is very important for the transmission of wave energy along the boundary and for reflections from the boundary. The dissipation was found to be dependent not only on the presence of the coastal Kelvin waves in the domain, but also on the period of these coastal waves. In particular the dissipation increases with wave period. It is also shown that the equatorial β-plane approximation can allow an anomalous generation of Rossby waves at higher latitudes. Nonlinearities generally have a small effect on the solutions, within the confines of this model.Key words. Oceanography: general (equatorial oceanography; numerical modeling) · Oceanography: physical (eastern boundary currents)
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Prasita, Viv Djanat, Ima Nurmalia Permatasari, Supriyatno Widagdo y Fajar Setiawan. "Patterns of Wind and Waves Along the Kenjeran Beach Tourism Areas in Surabaya, Indonesia". Pertanika Journal of Science and Technology 30, n.º 2 (11 de marzo de 2022): 1289–308. http://dx.doi.org/10.47836/pjst.30.2.24.
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Waves are movements of ups and downs of seawater that carry energy. This wave energy can erode the beach shore, including the Kenjeran Beach. The areas of eroded coast will depend on the magnitude of the energy of the waves. This research aimed to analyze wind and ocean waves for the management of coastal tourism areas, mainly related to visitor safety. This research used wind and wave data from BMKG obtained for ten years (2009–2018), and they were processed using Software ArcGis 9.3 and Software WRPOLT View 8.0.2. The statistical method used in this research was the Windrose method, which analyzed the wind direction and speed in a certain place and was the ratio of the wind blowing in each wind direction. The distribution of wind was intended to determine the significant wind speed and direction that have an effect in 10 years. The wind had an average speed of 5.31 m/s from 2009 to 2018. The variation in the dominant wind direction movement occurred in the range of 90° to 270°, but overall, the wind came from the East and Southeast. The highest ocean waves caused by wind in the Kenjeran tourism area were 0.8 m and occurred in 2014. It can be concluded that the wind and the ocean waves in the coastal tourism area of Kenjeran are relatively weak. Thus, in terms of security and safety for visitors, Kenjeran beach is very suitable for tourists.