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Journal articles on the topic 'Wave run-up'

Author: Grafiati

Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 18 February 2022

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1

Lee, Sang Beom, Seung Yoon Han, Young Myoung Choi, Sun Hong Kwon, Dong Woo Jung, and Jun Soo Park. "Study on Wave Run-Up Phenomenon over Vertical Cylinder." Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology 27, no. 4 (August 31, 2013): 62–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.5574/ksoe.2013.27.4.062.

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2

Takezawa, Mitsuo, Masaru Mizuguchi, Shintaro Hotta, and Susumu Kubota. "WAVE RUN-UP ON A NATURAL BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 10. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.10.

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The swash oscillation, waves and water particle velocity in the surf zone were measured by using 16 mm memo-motion cameras and electromagnetic current meters. It was inferred that incident waves form two-dimensional standing waves with the anti-node in the swash slope. Separation of the incident waves and reflected waves was attempted with good results using small amplitude long wave theory. Reflection coefficient of individual waves ranged between 0.3 and 1.0. The joint distribution of wave heights and periods in the swash oscillation exhibited different distribution from that in and outside the surf zone. This indicates that simple application of wave to wave transformation model fails in the swash zone.

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3

Fiedler, Julia W., Adam P. Young, Bonnie C. Ludka, William C. O’Reilly, Cassandra Henderson, Mark A. Merrifield, and R. T. Guza. "Predicting site-specific storm wave run-up." Natural Hazards 104, no. 1 (July 31, 2020): 493–517. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11069-020-04178-3.

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Abstract Storm wave run-up causes beach erosion, wave overtopping, and street flooding. Extreme runup estimates may be improved, relative to predictions from general empirical formulae with default parameter values, by using historical storm waves and eroded profiles in numerical runup simulations. A climatology of storm wave run-up at Imperial Beach, California is developed using the numerical model SWASH, and over a decade of hindcast spectral waves and observed depth profiles. For use in a local flood warning system, the relationship between incident wave energy spectra E(f) and SWASH-modeled shoreline water levels is approximated with the numerically simple integrated power law approximation (IPA). Broad and multi-peaked E(f) are accommodated by characterizing wave forcing with frequency-weighted integrals of E(f). This integral approach improves runup estimates compared to the more commonly used bulk parameterization using deep water wave height $$H_0$$ H 0 and deep water wavelength $$L_0$$ L 0 Hunt (Trans Am Soc Civ Eng 126(4):542–570, 1961) and Stockdon et al. (Coast Eng 53(7):573–588, 2006. 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005). Scaling of energy and frequency contributions in IPA, determined by searching parameter space for the best fit to SWASH, show an $$H_0L_0$$ H 0 L 0 scaling is near optimal. IPA performance is tested with LiDAR observations of storm run-up, which reached 2.5 m above the offshore water level, overtopped backshore riprap, and eroded the foreshore beach slope. Driven with estimates from a regional wave model and observed $$\beta _f$$ β f , the IPA reproduced observed run-up with $$<30\%$$ < 30 % error. However, errors in model physics, depth profile, and incoming wave predictions partially cancelled. IPA (or alternative empirical forms) can be calibrated (using SWASH or similar) for sites where historical waves and eroded bathymetry are available.

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4

Steendam, Gosse Jan, Jentsje Wouter Van der Meer, Andre Van Hoven, and Astrid Labrujere. "WAVE RUN-UP SIMULATIONS ON REAL DIKES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 42. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.structures.42.

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A new Wave Run-up Simulator has been designed, constructed, calibrated and used for testing of the seaward face of dikes. The upper part of dikes or levees often have a clay layer with a grass cover. The new device is able to test the strength of the grass cover under simulation of up-rushing waves for pre-defined storm conditions. The cumulative overload method has been developed to describe the strength of grass covers on the crest and landward side of dikes, for overtopping wave volumes. In essence there is not a lot of difference between the hydraulic load from an overtopping wave volume or from an up-rushing wave. Therefore the hypothesis has been evaluated that the cumulative overload method should also be applicable for up-rushing waves. Tests on a real dike have been used to validate this hypothesis. The main conclusions are that the new Wave Overtopping Simulator works really well, but that the results on testing till so far has not yet been sufficient for a full validation of the method. More research is required. Furthermore, a new technique has been developed to measure the strength of a grass sod on a dike: the grass pulling device. Tests with this device showed that it is possible to measure the critical velocity (= strength) of a grass cover, which is much easier than performing tests with a Wave Run-up or Overtopping Simulator.

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5

Didenkulova, I., and A. Rodin. "A typical wave wake from high-speed vessels: its group structure and run-up." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 20, no. 1 (February 26, 2013): 179–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-20-179-2013.

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Abstract. High-amplitude water waves induced by high-speed vessels are regularly observed in Tallinn Bay, the Baltic Sea, causing intense beach erosion and disturbing marine habitants in the coastal zone. Such a strong impact on the coast may be a result of a certain group structure of the wave wake. In order to understand it, here we present an experimental study of the group structure of these wakes at Pikakari beach, Tallinn Bay. The most energetic vessel waves at this location (100 m from the coast at the water depth 2.7 m) have amplitudes of about 1 m and periods of 8–10 s and cause maximum run-up heights on a beach up to 1.4 m. These waves represent frequency modulated packets where the largest and longest waves propagate ahead of other smaller amplitude and period waves. Sometimes the groups of different heights and periods can be separated even within one wave wake event. The wave heights within a wake are well described by the Weibull distribution, which has different parameters for wakes from different vessels. Wave run-up heights can also be described by Weibull distribution and its parameters can be connected to the parameters of the distribution of wave heights 100 m from the coast. Finally, the run-up of individual waves within a packet is studied. It is shown that the specific structure of frequency modulated wave packets, induced by high-speed vessels, leads to a sequence of high wave run-ups at the coast, even when the original wave heights are rather moderate. This feature can be a key to understanding the significant impact on coasts caused by fast vessels.

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6

Kreyenschulte, Moritz, David Schürenkamp, Benedikt Bratz, Holger Schüttrumpf, and Nils Goseberg. "Wave Run-Up on Mortar-Grouted Riprap Revetments." Water 12, no. 12 (December 2, 2020): 3396. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/w12123396.

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The wave run-up height is a crucial design parameter that determines the crest height of a sea dike and is used for estimating the number of overtopping waves. Therefore, a reduction of the wave run-up height is generally aspired in the design of dikes, which can be achieved by mortar-grouted riprap revetments (MGRR). Although MGRRs are widely utilized revetments along the German North Sea coast, no investigations into the wave run-up height on this revetment type are available to date. Full-scale hydraulic model tests were hence conducted to investigate wave run-up heights on partially grouted and fully grouted MGRRs. The wave run-up was determined using 2D-LIDAR measurements, which were validated by video data. Partially grouted MGRRs, due to their roughness, porosity, and permeability, reduce wave run-up heights from 21% to 28%, and fully grouted MGRRs due to their roughness reduce wave run-up heights from 12% to 14% compared to smooth impermeable revetments. Influence factors have been determined for four widely used revetment configurations, which can now be used for design purposes. A comparison and subsequent discussion about the representation of the physics of wave run-up by different parameters is carried out with the results presented.

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7

Mather, Andrew Alan, Derek Stretch, and Gerald Garland. "WAVE RUN UP ON NATURAL BEACHES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 31, 2011): 45. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.45.

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Wave run up is important for quantifying risks to infrastructure in the coastal zone. The performance of global wave run up models are assessed by applying them to two significant storms along the South African coastline in 2007 and 2008. The models produced mixed results and therefore the development of a new wave run up model was undertaken. This model uses the distance offshore to a point on the bathymetric profile, located approximately at the cut off depth, as a proxy for the underwater beach profile. This new wave run up model has been calibrated for open coastlines as well as large and small embayments. The new model outperforms most of the current wave run up models and gives a good first order approximation of wave run up on natural beaches.

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8

LI, YING, and FREDRIC RAICHLEN. "Non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 456 (April 9, 2002): 295–318. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112001007625.

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The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank was investigated experimentally and numerically. If only the general characteristics of the run-up process and the maximum run-up are of interest, for the case of a breaking wave the post-breaking condition can be simplified and represented as a propagating bore. A numerical model using this bore structure to treat the process of wave breaking and subsequent shoreward propagation was developed. The nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) were solved using the weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) shock capturing scheme employed in gas dynamics. Wave breaking and post-breaking propagation are handled automatically by this scheme and ad hoc terms are not required. A computational domain mapping technique was used to model the shoreline movement. This numerical scheme was found to provide a relatively simple and reasonably good prediction of various aspects of the run-up process. The energy dissipation associated with wave breaking of solitary wave run-up (excluding the effects of bottom friction) was also estimated using the results from the numerical model.

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9

Saville, Jr., Thorndike. "WAVE RUN-UP ON COMPOSITE SLOPES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 6 (January 29, 2011): 41. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v6.41.

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A method is presented for determining wave run-up on composite slopes from laboratory- derived curves for single slopes. The method is one of successive approximations and involves replacement of the actual composite slope with a hypothetical single slope obtained from the breaking depth and an estimated run-up value. Comparison of predicted values is made with actual laboratory data.

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10

Mj, Dripta, and Denys Dutykh. "Learning extreme wave run-up conditions." Applied Ocean Research 105 (December 2020): 102400. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2020.102400.

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11

Van der Meer, Jentsje, Yvo Provoost, and Gosse Jan Steendam. "THE WAVE RUN-UP SIMULATOR, THEORY AND FIRST PILOT TEST." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (December 14, 2012): 65. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.structures.65.

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The idea of the Wave Run-up Simulator is based on the experiences with the Wave Overtopping Simulator. It is possible to simulate wave tongues overtopping a dike crest in reality. It must also be possible to simulate waves in the run-up and run-down zone of the seaward slope. This is the zone after waves have broken and when they rush-up the slope. The present paper describes this new idea of the Wave Run-up Simulator, why it is useful to develop the machine, to perform research with it and to develop a prediction method for slope strength. In fact, a prediction method can already be developed from the Cumulative Overload Method, which was developed on the basis of results with the Wave Overtopping Simulator, see Van der Meer et al. (2010). It also means that tests on the seaward slope will be done for validation purposes only. The paper describes in detail what is known about the movement of waves in this run-up zone and what actually the Wave Run-up Simulator has to simulate. Not a lot of research has been performed to describe the wave run-up process in detail, physically nor statistically. Finally, the pilot test has been described including hydraulic measurements on the slope.

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12

Le Mehaute, Bernard. "ON NON-SATURATED BREAKERS AND THE WAVE RUN-UP." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (January 29, 2011): 6. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.6.

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Some theoretical results pertaining to the physical behavior of gravity waves on a sloped plane are presented. The notion of "saturated" breakers and "non-saturated" breakers which follow the breaking index curve is introduced. Criteria for different kinds of breaking and successive breaking of waves are presented. Some considerations on the wave run-up are deduced. Then a critical analysis of the method of characteristics is presented, with some possible refinements. Path curvature effect is taken into account and the problem of waves climbing on a dry bed is solved. Criteria for determining saturated and non-saturated breakers and the wave run-up by the method of characteristics are proposed.

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13

Özeren, M. Sinan, and Nazmi Postacioglu. "Nonlinear landslide tsunami run-up." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 691 (December 13, 2011): 440–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2011.482.

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AbstractInhomogeneous nonlinear shallow-water equations are studied using the Carrier–Greenspan approach and the resulting equations are solved analytically. The Carrier–Greenspan transformations are commonly used hodograph transformations that transform the nonlinear shallow-water equations into a set of linear equations in which partial derivatives with respect to two auxiliary variables appear. Yet, when the resulting initial-value problem is treated analytically through the use of Green’s functions, the partial derivatives of the Green’s functions have non-integrable singularities. This has forced researchers to numerically differentiate the convolutions of the Green’s functions. In this work we remedy this problem by differentiating the initial condition rather than the Green’s function itself; we also perform a change of variables that renders the entire problem more easily treatable. This particular Green’s function approach is especially useful to treat sources that are extended in time; we therefore apply it to model the run-down and run-up of the tsunami waves triggered by submarine landslides. Another advantage of the method presented is that the parametrization of the landslide using sources is done within the integral algorithm that is used for the rest of the problem instead of treating the landslide-generated wave as a separate incident wave. The method proves to be more accurate than the techniques based on Bessel function expansions if the sources are very localized.

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14

Xu, Shanshan, and Frédéric Dias. "Long Wave Run-Up Resonance in a Multi-Reflection System." Applied Sciences 10, no. 18 (September 4, 2020): 6172. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/app10186172.

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Wave reflection and wave trapping can lead to long wave run-up resonance. After reviewing the theory of run-up resonance in the framework of the linear shallow water equations, we perform numerical simulations of periodic waves incident on a linearly sloping beach in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water equations. Three different types of boundary conditions are tested: fully reflective boundary, relaxation zone, and influx transparent boundary. The effect of the boundary condition on wave run-up is investigated. For the fully reflective boundary condition, it is found that resonant regimes do exist for certain values of the frequency of the incoming wave, which is consistent with theoretical results. The influx transparent boundary condition does not lead to run-up resonance. Finally, by decomposing the left- and right-going waves into a multi-reflection system, we find that the relaxation zone can lead to run-up resonance depending on the length of the relaxation zone.

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15

Gao, Feng, Clive Mingham, and Derek Causon. "SIMULATION OF EXTREME WAVE INTERACTION WITH MONOPILE MOUNTS FOR OFFSHORE WIND TURBINES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (October 15, 2012): 22. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.structures.22.

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Extreme wave run-up and impacts on monopile foundations may cause unexpected damage to offshore wind farm facilities and platforms. To assess the forces due to wave run-up, the distribution of run-up around the pile and the maximum wave run-up height need to be known. This paper describes a numerical model AMAZON-3D study of wave run-up and wave forces on offshore wind turbine monopile foundations, including both regular and irregular waves. Numerical results of wave force for regular waves are in good agreement with experimental measurement and theoretical results, while the maximum run-up height are little higher than predicted by linear theory and some empirical formula. Some results for irregular wave simulation are also presented.

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16

Iryanto and S. R. Pudjaprasetya. "A Coupled Model for Wave Run-up Simulation." East Asian Journal on Applied Mathematics 7, no. 4 (November 2017): 728–40. http://dx.doi.org/10.4208/eajam.181016.300517b.

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AbstractSimplified models like the shallow water equations (SWE) are commonly adopted for describing a wide range of free surface flow problems, like flows in rivers, lakes, estuaries, or coastal areas. In the literature, numerical methods for the SWE are mostly mesh-based. However, this macroscopic approach is unable to accurately represent the complexity of flows near coastlines, where waves nearly break. This fact prompted the idea of coupling the mesh-based SWE model with a meshless particle method for solving the Euler equations. In a previous paper, a method to couple the staggered scheme SWE and the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) Euler equations was developed and discussed. In this article, this coupled model is used for simulating solitary wave run-up on a sloping beach. The results show strong agreement with the experimental data of Synolakis. Simulations of wave overtopping over a seawall were also performed.

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17

Hafsteinsson, Helgi J., Frederic M. Evers, and Willi H. Hager. "Solitary wave run-up: wave breaking and bore propagation." Journal of Hydraulic Research 55, no. 6 (September 11, 2017): 787–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2017.1356756.

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18

Gurbatov, Sergey, and Efim Pelinovsky. "Probabilistic characteristics of narrow-band long-wave run-up onshore." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 19, no. 9 (September 2, 2019): 1925–35. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-19-1925-2019.

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Abstract. The run-up of random long-wave ensemble (swell, storm surge, and tsunami) on the constant-slope beach is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water theory in the approximation of non-breaking waves. If the incident wave approaches the shore from the deepest water, run-up characteristics can be found in two stages: in the first stage, linear equations are solved and the wave characteristics at the fixed (undisturbed) shoreline are found, and in the second stage the nonlinear dynamics of the moving shoreline is studied by means of the Riemann (nonlinear) transformation of linear solutions. In this paper, detailed results are obtained for quasi-harmonic (narrow-band) waves with random amplitude and phase. It is shown that the probabilistic characteristics of the run-up extremes can be found from the linear theory, while the same ones of the moving shoreline are from the nonlinear theory. The role of wave-breaking due to large-amplitude outliers is discussed, so that it becomes necessary to consider wave ensembles with non-Gaussian statistics within the framework of the analytical theory of non-breaking waves. The basic formulas for calculating the probabilistic characteristics of the moving shoreline and its velocity through the incident wave characteristics are given. They can be used for estimates of the flooding zone characteristics in marine natural hazards.

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19

Fuchs, Helge, and Willi H. Hager. "Scale Effects of Impulse Wave Run-Up and Run-Over." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 138, no. 4 (July 2012): 303–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000138.

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20

Yeh, Harry H., Abdulhamid Ghazali, and Ingunn Marton. "Experimental study of bore run-up." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 206 (September 1989): 563–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112089002417.

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Bore propagation near the shoreline, the transition from bore to wave run-up, and the ensuing run-up motion on a uniformly sloping beach are investigated experimentally. As a bore approaches the shoreline, the propagation speed first decelerates by compressing its wave form and then suddenly accelerates at the shoreline. Although this behaviour is qualitatively in agreement with the inviscid shallow-water wave prediction (often called the ‘bore collapse’ phenomenon), unlike the genuine bore-collapse phenomenon, the acceleration is caused by the ‘momentum exchange’ process, i.e. collision of the bore against the initially quiescent water along the shoreline. Owing to this momentum exchange, a single bore motion degenerates into two successive run-up water masses; one involves a turbulent run-up water motion followed by the original incident wave motion. The transition process from undular bore to wave run-up appears to be different from that of a fully developed bore. The bore front overturns directly onto the dry beach surface, and the run-up is characterized by a thin splashed-up flow layer.

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21

Seyama, Akira, and Akira Kimura. "CRITICAL RUN-UP HEIGHT ON THE SEA WALL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 164. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.164.

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This study aims at clarifying the difference between irregular and periodic wave run-ups on a slope or a sea wall. Since hydraulic phenomena on a slope are the induced result of an interaction between a running up wave and a back-wash. The run-up height, therefore, has to be investigated in terms of a back-wash properties in addition to run-up wave properties. The experiments which are so designed that waves can run up on a slope without meeting back-wash, were conducted to evaluate the back-wash effects. The relative run-up heights K /HQ of periodic waves in these experiments reached up to about two times as high as those of periodic waves which have the same steepnesses. The run-up heights of irregular waves on a slope were also investigated experimentally. There are no clear relations between R_/HQ and HQ/LQ as those for periodic waves ordinary observed, and they distributed widely. The upper-most value of RJ-/HQ in the distribution for any HQ/LQ was almost equal to the value in the above experiment. The uppermost (critical) relative run-up heights RJ-/HQ for the given HQ/LQ and slope may exist. The differences between the critical and ordinary run-up height of periodic waves on the sea wall were also experimentally investigated. The difference is prominent when a sea wall is set onshore from the shore-line. It reaches up to about 4 times when a sea wall is set a little on-shore from the shore line. Some statistical discussion on the probability of the situation in which the critical run-up may be brought about is given at the last part.

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22

Shimozono, Takenori. "Long wave propagation and run-up in converging bays." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 798 (June 3, 2016): 457–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2016.327.

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Analytical solutions are derived to describe two-dimensional wave evolution in converging bays. Three bay types of different cross-sections are studied: U-shaped, V-shaped and cusped bays. For these bays, the two-dimensional linear shallow water equations can be reduced to one-dimensional linear dispersive wave equations if the transverse flow acceleration inside them is assumed to be small. The derived solutions are characterized as the leading-order plane-wave solutions with higher-order corrections for two-dimensionality due to wave refraction. Wave amplitude longitudinally increases with different rates for the three bay types, whereas it exhibits weak parabolic variations in the transverse direction. Wave refraction significantly affects relatively short waves, contributing to wave energy transfer to the inner bay in a different manner depending on the bay type. The perturbation analysis of very high-order wave celerity suggests that the solutions are valid only when the ratio of the bay width to the wavelength is smaller than a certain limit that differs with bay type. Beyond the limit, the higher-order effect is no longer a minor correction, implying that wave behaviours become highly two-dimensional and possibly cause total reflection. The higher-order effect on the run-up height at the bay head is found to be small within the applicable range of the solution, and thus, the run-up formula neglecting the transverse flows has a wide validity. We also discuss the limitation of run-up height by wave breaking on the basis of a breaking criterion from previous studies.

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23

Saville, Thorndike. "AN APPROXIMATION OF THE WAVE RUN-UP FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (January 29, 2011): 4. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.4.

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The distribution of wave steepness (H/T ) for fully developed sea is obtained from Bretschneider's joint distribution of wave height and wave period. This steepness distribution is used with standard wave runup curves to develop a frequency curve of wave run-up. Use of this run-up distribution curve will permit more accurate estimation of the variability in wave run-up for design cases, and particularly the percent of time in which run-ups will exceed that predicted for the significant wave. The distribution may also be used with normal overtopping procedures to determine more accurate estimates of overtopping quantities. Wave run-up may be defined as the vertical height above mean water level to which water from a breaking wave will rise on a structure face. Accurate design data on the height of wave run-up is needed for determination of design crest elevations of protective structures subject to wave action such as seawalls, beach fills, surge barriers, and dams. Such structures are normally designed to prevent wave overtopping with consequent flooding on the landward side and, if of an earth type, possible failure by rearface erosion. Because of the importance of wave run-up elevations in determining structure heights and freeboards, a great deal of work has been done in the past six years in an attempt to relate wave run-up to incident wave characteristics, and slope or structure characteristics. Compilations based largely on laboratory experimental work have been made and have fe-?* suited in curves similar to those shown in Figure 1 which is reprinted from the U. S. Beach Erosion Board Technical Report No. 4. Such curves most frequently have related the dimensionless ratio of relative run-up (R/H ) to incident wave steepness in deep water (H /T ), as a function of structure type or slope. (H is the equivalent deep water wave height.) The curves shown in Figure 1 are of this type, and pertain to structures having a depth of water greater than three wave heights at the toe of the structure; this depth limitation in effect means that the wave breaks directly on the structure. The curves shown in Figure 1 are a portion of a set of five separate figures, covering different structure depths (d/H ). All are published in Beach Erosion Board Technical Report Number 4. These curves were derived primarily from small scale laboratory tests. Further laboratory tests with much larger waves (heights two to five feet) have shown that a scale effect exists for some conditions.

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24

INAGAKI, Takeshi, Keiko UDO, and Akira MANO. "Prediction Model of Breaking Wave Run-up." Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) 65, no. 1 (2009): 116–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/kaigan.65.116.

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25

ADITYAWAN, Mohammad Bagus, and Hitoshi TANAKA. "MODELING OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVE RUN UP." Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B3 (Ocean Engineering) 67, no. 2 (2011): I_607—I_612. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/jscejoe.67.i_607.

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26

Mase, H. "Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up." Coastal Engineering 12, no. 2 (June 1988): 175–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(88)90004-x.

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27

Pillai, Karthika, Amir Etemad-Shahidi, and Charles Lemckert. "Wave run-up on bermed coastal structures." Applied Ocean Research 86 (May 2019): 188–94. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2019.02.006.

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28

Ezersky, A., N. Abcha, and E. Pelinovsky. "Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 20, no. 1 (January 9, 2013): 35–40. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-20-35-2013.

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Abstract. Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequency and magnitude of the maximum amplification are in good correlation with the numerical calculation results represented in the paper (Stefanakis et al., 2011). These effects are very important for understanding the nature of rogue waves in the coastal zone.

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29

Shugan, Igor, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, and Ray-Yeng Yang. "TSUNAMI RUN-UP ON THE HORIZONTAL BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 23, 2011): 10. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.10.

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Tsunami run-up on the flat horizontal beach is studied by using the Benney shallow water equations. The dam-breaking flow includes vortexes, vertical shear flow and dissipation of momentum and energy on the front due to bore breaking. Propagating of hydrodynamics bores with breaking is analyzed by the mass, momentum and energy relations on the shock wave. Non dissipative wave front propagates faster than classical bore, while taking into account the dissipation and wave breaking leads to slowing of the wave front.

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30

Dao, M. H., H. Xu, E. S. Chan, and P. Tkalich. "Modelling of tsunami wave run-up, breaking and impact on vertical wall by SPH method." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Discussions 1, no. 3 (June 22, 2013): 2831–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhessd-1-2831-2013.

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Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modeling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on vertical wall using two methods, the enhanced Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method and the traditional non-breaking nonlinear model Tunami-N2. The Tunami-N2 model fails to capture the evolution of steep waves at the proximity of breaking that observed in the experiments. Whereas, the SPH method successfully simulate the wave propagation, breaking, impact on structure and the reform and breaking processes of wave run-down. The study also indicates that inadequate approximation of the wave breaking could lead to significant under-predictions of wave height and impact pressure on structures. The SPH model shows potential applications for accurate impact assessments of wave run-up onto coastal structures.

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31

Dao, M. H., H. Xu, E. S. Chan, and P. Tkalich. "Modelling of tsunami-like wave run-up, breaking and impact on a vertical wall by SPH method." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 13, no. 12 (December 23, 2013): 3457–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-13-3457-2013.

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Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modelling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a vertical wall using two methods, an enhanced smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method and the traditional non-breaking nonlinear model Tunami-N2. The Tunami-N2 model fails to capture the evolution of steep waves at the proximity of breaking that was observed in the experiments. Whereas the SPH method successfully simulates the wave propagation, breaking, impact on structure and the reform and breaking processes of wave run-down. The study also indicates that inadequate approximation of the wave breaking could lead to significant under-predictions of wave height and impact pressure on structures. The SPH model shows potential applications for accurate impact assessments of wave run-up on to coastal structures.

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32

Garborg, Karsten, Thomas Lykke Andersen, Jesper Skourup, and Peter Bak Frigaard. "Re-Analysis of Run-Up Levels for Slender Monopiles." International Journal of Ocean and Coastal Engineering 02, no. 01n02 (March 2019): 1950002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s2529807019500027.

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In the present paper, the experimental data on wave run-up on slender monopiles from recently published small and large scale tests are reanalyzed using different methods for the wave analysis. The hypothesis is that the post processing has an impact on the results, due to depth limited and highly nonlinear waves in many of the tests. Thus, the identified maximum waves by a zero-down crossing analysis are highly influenced by the reflection analysis method as well as by bandpass filtering. The stagnation head theory with the run-up coefficient is adopted and new coefficients are presented. The hypothesis is verified, and the applied bandpass filter is identified as a large contributor to conservatism in previous studies, as the steep, nonlinear waves that produce the highest run-up can be heavily distorted by the bandpass filter.

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33

Kantarzhi, Izmail, Sergii Kivva, and Natalia V. Shunko. "NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE RUN-UP AT PERMEABLE FIXED REVETMENT SLOPE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 32. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.structures.32.

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The numerical model of wave surface elevation and water filtration in the saturated-unsaturated porous medium is developed. The model uses to define the parameters of the wave run-up at the slope protected by the permeable fixed layer. The model shows the wave surface in the different times, including the wave run-up height at the slope and wave run-down. Also, the velocities in the upper protected layer as well in the soil body of the slope are defined. Model is verified with using of the published large-scale tests with the slopes protected by Elastocoast technology layers. The tests were carried out in the wave flume of Technical University Braunschweig. The numerical model may be applied to calculate the maximal waves run-up at the protected engineering and beach slopes in natural conditions.

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34

Yao, Yu, Ruichao Du, Changbo Jiang, Zhengjiang Tang, and Wancheng Yuan. "Experimental Study of Reduction of Solitary Wave Run-Up by Emergent Rigid Vegetation on a Beach." Journal of Earthquake and Tsunami 09, no. 05 (December 2015): 1540003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s1793431115400035.

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Extensive studies have been carried out to study the performance of mangrove forests in wave height reduction. In this study, the reduction of the inundation and run-up of leading tsunami waves by mangrove forests was investigated through a series of laboratory experiments conducted in a long wave tank. The inundation and run-up were measured using a high speed CCD camera. Solitary waves were used to model the leading tsunami waves. Five vegetation models representing three forest densities and two tree distributions were examined on an impermeable sloping beach, and they were compared with the non-vegetated slope in view of wave reflection, transmission, and run-up. Results show that both incident wave height and run-up could be reduced by up to 50% when the vegetation was present on the slope. Dense vegetation reduced the wave transmission because of the increased wave reflection and energy dissipation into turbulence in vegetation. Normalized wave run-up on the beach decreased with the increase of both normalized incident wave height and forest density. Effect of forest density on the wave run-up on the sloping beach was further examined, and an empirical formula with the density incorporated was proposed. The study also highlighted the importance of tree distribution to wave interaction with vegetation on the slope when the forest density was unaltered, and run-up reduction difference between tandem and staggered arrangements of the trees could reach up to 20%.

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35

KUBOTA, SUSUMU. "Characteristic of reflected wave in actual wave run-up area." PROCEEDINGS OF COASTAL ENGINEERING, JSCE 36 (1989): 119–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/proce1989.36.119.

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36

HWANG, KAO-SHU, YU-HSUAN CHANG, HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG, and YI-SYUAN LI. "LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES." Journal of Earthquake and Tsunami 01, no. 03 (September 2007): 257–72. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s1793431107000158.

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The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

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Wang, Lei, Shou Xian Zhu, Xun Qiang Li, Wen Jing Zhang, and Wen Chao Wang. "Comparison of Wave Run-Up Formulas by Flume Experiments." Applied Mechanics and Materials 556-562 (May 2014): 4151–54. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.556-562.4151.

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The wave run-up formulas from the Code of Hydrology for Sea Harbour (CHSH), the Code for design of levee project (CDLP) and Hunt are all widely used, but they are in different forms of mathematical equations. In this paper, some flume experiments for wave run-up are made to examine these formulas. The tests show that the wave run-up formula from Hunt is in good agreement with the experiments. The wave run-up formula from CDLP has been usually used in steep slopes, while the tests show that it is also in good agreement with the experiments in the small slope flume. The wave run-up formula from CHSH is also used mainly in steep slopes, it brings significant error of the wave run-up calculation contrasting with the experiments.

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Oppikofer, Thierry, Reginald L. Hermanns, Nicholas J. Roberts, and Martina Böhme. "SPLASH: semi-empirical prediction of landslide-generated displacement wave run-up heights." Geological Society, London, Special Publications 477, no. 1 (March 27, 2018): 353–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.1144/sp477.1.

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AbstractDisplacement waves (or tsunamis) generated by sub-aerial landslides cause damage along shorelines over long distances, making run-up assessment a crucial component of landslide risk analysis. Although site-specific modelling provides important insight into the behaviour of potential waves, more general approaches using limited input parameters are necessary for preliminary assessments. We use a catalogue of landslide-generated displacement waves to develop semi-empirical relationships linking displacement wave run-up (R in metres) to distance from landslide impact (x in kilometres) and to landslide volume (V in millions of cubic metres). For individual events, run-up decreases with distance according to power laws. Consideration of ten events demonstrates that run-up increases with landslide volume, also according to a power law. Combining these relationships gives the SPLASH equation: R = aVbxc, with best-fitted parameters a = 18.093, b = 0.57110 and c = −0.74189. The 95% prediction interval between the calculated and measured run-up values is 2.58, meaning that 5% of the measured run-up heights exceed the predicted value by a factor of 2.58 or more. This relatively large error is explained by local amplifications of wave height and run-up. Comparisons with other displacement wave models show that the SPLASH equation is a valuable tool for the first-stage preliminary hazard and risk assessment for unstable rock slopes above water bodies.

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39

Silva, Guilherme Vieira da, Paula Gomes da Silva, Rafael Sangoi Araujo, Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein, and Elírio E. Toldo Jr. "Wave run-up on embayed beaches. Study case: Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil." Brazilian Journal of Oceanography 65, no. 2 (June 2017): 187–200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/s1679-87592017133706502.

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ABSTRACT This paper presents a new approach for estimating run-up on embayed beaches based on a study of the microtidal coast of Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil using the surf similarity parameter and wave height at break location. The four step methodology involved: 1) direct wave measurement (34 days), wave run-up measurement (19 days at 7 points within the bay), measurement of bathymetry and beach topography in the entire bay; 2) tests on available formulae to calculate wave run-up; 3) use of the SWAN spectral wave model to simulate wave parameters at breaking at each wave run-up measurement point and; 4) development of a new formula/approach to assess wave run-up on embayed beaches (in both exposed and protected areas). During the experiments the significant wave height varied from 0.5 m to 3.01 m, the mean wave period from 2.79 s to 7.76 s (the peak period varied between 2.95 s and 17.18 s), the mean wave direction from 72.5° to 141.9° (the peak direction varied from 39.2° to 169.8°) and the beach slope (tan β) from 0.041 to 0.201. The proposed formula is in good agreement with measured data for different wave conditions and varying degrees of protection. The analysis demonstrates that although R² varies from 0.52 to 0.75, the wave run-up distribution over the measurements agreed well with the proposed model, as shown by quantile-quantile analysis (R²=0.98 to 0.99). The errors observed in individual cases may be related to errors of measurements, modeling and to non-linear processes in the swash zone, such as infragavity waves.

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40

Ezersky, A., D. Tiguercha, and E. Pelinovsky. "Resonance phenomena at the long wave run-up on the coast." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 13, no. 11 (November 5, 2013): 2745–52. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-13-2745-2013.

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Abstract. Run-up of long waves on a beach consisting of three pieces of constant but different slopes is studied. Linear shallow-water theory is used for incoming impulse evolution, and nonlinear corrections are obtained for the run-up stage. It is demonstrated that bottom profile influences the run-up characteristics and can lead to resonance effects: increase of wave height, particle velocity, and number of oscillations. Simple parameterization of tsunami source through an earthquake magnitude is used to calculate the run-up height versus earthquake magnitude. It is shown that resonance effects lead to the sufficient increase of run-up heights for the weakest earthquakes, and a tsunami wave does not break on chosen bottom relief if the earthquake magnitude does not exceed 7.8.

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41

Archetti, Renata, and Maria Gabriella Gaeta. "WAVE RUN-UP OBSERVATION AND 2DV NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON BEACHES PROTECTED BY STRUCTURES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (December 14, 2012): 20. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.20.

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The main parameter for the assessment of coastal vulnerability and sediment transport is the wave run-up on the beach, defining the limit of maximum flooding, but also hydrodynamic properties in the Swash Zone (SZ) are trivial for the comprehension of hydro-morphodynamic processes. Several studies have been carried out on the SZ but few literature is still available on the run-up and on SZ flows on beaches protected by Low Crested Structures (LCSs), where flow motion is driven by a combination of low frequency infra-gravity waves and incident waves. In presence of breakwaters, swash incident waves are transmitted through the structure. In the transmission area behind the structures, wave energy is shifted to higher frequencies with respect to the incident wave spectrum and in general its mean period considerably decreases with respect to the incident one. Collecting in situ run-up measurements during storms is essential to understand the SZ processes and properly calibrate their both empirical and numerical models but measuring extreme run-up is difficult, due to the severe sea conditions and due to unexpected nature of storms. The present paper present a numerical and experimental analysis of the wave run-up and of the flow properties on a beach: the study shows the different behavior of unprotected and protected beach, subjected to the same wave conditions. In particular the paper shows that submerged breakwaters reduce in general the run-up height, on the basis of the calibrated 2DV numerical simulations, under extreme wave conditions (TR >50 years), the effect of submerged breakwaters seems to be negligible on the run-up height. Moreover a preliminary empirical equation for run-up with protected beach is proposed

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42

Adityawan, Mohammad Bagus, and Hitoshi Tanaka. "Bed stress assessment under solitary wave run-up." Earth, Planets and Space 64, no. 10 (October 2012): 945–54. http://dx.doi.org/10.5047/eps.2011.02.012.

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43

ADITYAWAN, Mohammad Bagus, and Hitoshi TANAKA. "BED STRESS IMPORTANCE UNDER SOLITARY WAVE RUN UP." Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B1 (Hydraulic Engineering) 67, no. 4 (2011): I_241—I_246. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/jscejhe.67.i_241.

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44

Van de Walle, B., J. De Rouck, P. Troch, J. Geeraerts, and P. Frigaard. "Wave run-up on rubble breakwaters: spectral effects." Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Maritime Engineering 158, no. 2 (June 2005): 59–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.1680/maen.2005.158.2.59.

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45

Kantardgi, I. G., S. L. Kivva, and N. V. Shunko. "Wave run-up on permeable fixed reveted slopes." Magazine of Civil Engineering 50, no. 06 (October 2014): 13–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.5862/mce.50.2.

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46

Brocchini, M., and R. Gentile. "Modelling the run-up of significant wave groups." Continental Shelf Research 21, no. 15 (October 2001): 1533–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0278-4343(01)00015-2.

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47

Thiagarajan, Krish P., and Nitin Repalle. "Wave run-up on columns of deepwater platforms." Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part M: Journal of Engineering for the Maritime Environment 227, no. 3 (November 12, 2012): 256–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1475090212463497.

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48

Kobayashi, Nobuhisa, Ashwini K. Otta, and Indtajut Roy. "Wave Reflection and Run‐Up on Rough Slopes." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 113, no. 3 (May 1987): 282–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1987)113:3(282).

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49

Walton, Todd L., and John Ahrens. "Maximum Periodic Wave Run‐up on Smooth Slopes." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 115, no. 5 (September 1989): 703–8. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1989)115:5(703).

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50

Kobayashi, Nobuhisa, and Andojo Wurjanto. "Irregular Wave Setup and Run‐up on Beaches." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 118, no. 4 (July 1992): 368–86. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1992)118:4(368).

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