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Journal articles on the topic 'Wave run-up'

Author: Grafiati

Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 18 February 2022

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1

Lee, Sang Beom, Seung Yoon Han, Young Myoung Choi, Sun Hong Kwon, Dong Woo Jung, and Jun Soo Park. "Study on Wave Run-Up Phenomenon over Vertical Cylinder." Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology 27, no. 4 (2013): 62–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.5574/ksoe.2013.27.4.062.

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2

Takezawa, Mitsuo, Masaru Mizuguchi, Shintaro Hotta, and Susumu Kubota. "WAVE RUN-UP ON A NATURAL BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 10. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.10.

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The swash oscillation, waves and water particle velocity in the surf zone were measured by using 16 mm memo-motion cameras and electromagnetic current meters. It was inferred that incident waves form two-dimensional standing waves with the anti-node in the swash slope. Separation of the incident waves and reflected waves was attempted with good results using small amplitude long wave theory. Reflection coefficient of individual waves ranged between 0.3 and 1.0. The joint distribution of wave heights and periods in the swash oscillation exhibited different distribution from that in and outside

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3

Fiedler, Julia W., Adam P. Young, Bonnie C. Ludka, et al. "Predicting site-specific storm wave run-up." Natural Hazards 104, no. 1 (2020): 493–517. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11069-020-04178-3.

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Abstract Storm wave run-up causes beach erosion, wave overtopping, and street flooding. Extreme runup estimates may be improved, relative to predictions from general empirical formulae with default parameter values, by using historical storm waves and eroded profiles in numerical runup simulations. A climatology of storm wave run-up at Imperial Beach, California is developed using the numerical model SWASH, and over a decade of hindcast spectral waves and observed depth profiles. For use in a local flood warning system, the relationship between incident wave energy spectra E(f) and SWASH-model

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4

Steendam, Gosse Jan, Jentsje Wouter Van der Meer, Andre Van Hoven, and Astrid Labrujere. "WAVE RUN-UP SIMULATIONS ON REAL DIKES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 42. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.structures.42.

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A new Wave Run-up Simulator has been designed, constructed, calibrated and used for testing of the seaward face of dikes. The upper part of dikes or levees often have a clay layer with a grass cover. The new device is able to test the strength of the grass cover under simulation of up-rushing waves for pre-defined storm conditions. The cumulative overload method has been developed to describe the strength of grass covers on the crest and landward side of dikes, for overtopping wave volumes. In essence there is not a lot of difference between the hydraulic load from an overtopping wave volume o

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5

Didenkulova, I., and A. Rodin. "A typical wave wake from high-speed vessels: its group structure and run-up." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 20, no. 1 (2013): 179–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-20-179-2013.

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Abstract. High-amplitude water waves induced by high-speed vessels are regularly observed in Tallinn Bay, the Baltic Sea, causing intense beach erosion and disturbing marine habitants in the coastal zone. Such a strong impact on the coast may be a result of a certain group structure of the wave wake. In order to understand it, here we present an experimental study of the group structure of these wakes at Pikakari beach, Tallinn Bay. The most energetic vessel waves at this location (100 m from the coast at the water depth 2.7 m) have amplitudes of about 1 m and periods of 8–10 s and cause maxim

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6

Kreyenschulte, Moritz, David Schürenkamp, Benedikt Bratz, Holger Schüttrumpf, and Nils Goseberg. "Wave Run-Up on Mortar-Grouted Riprap Revetments." Water 12, no. 12 (2020): 3396. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/w12123396.

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The wave run-up height is a crucial design parameter that determines the crest height of a sea dike and is used for estimating the number of overtopping waves. Therefore, a reduction of the wave run-up height is generally aspired in the design of dikes, which can be achieved by mortar-grouted riprap revetments (MGRR). Although MGRRs are widely utilized revetments along the German North Sea coast, no investigations into the wave run-up height on this revetment type are available to date. Full-scale hydraulic model tests were hence conducted to investigate wave run-up heights on partially groute

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7

Mather, Andrew Alan, Derek Stretch, and Gerald Garland. "WAVE RUN UP ON NATURAL BEACHES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 45. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.45.

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Wave run up is important for quantifying risks to infrastructure in the coastal zone. The performance of global wave run up models are assessed by applying them to two significant storms along the South African coastline in 2007 and 2008. The models produced mixed results and therefore the development of a new wave run up model was undertaken. This model uses the distance offshore to a point on the bathymetric profile, located approximately at the cut off depth, as a proxy for the underwater beach profile. This new wave run up model has been calibrated for open coastlines as well as large and

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8

LI, YING, and FREDRIC RAICHLEN. "Non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 456 (April 9, 2002): 295–318. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112001007625.

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The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank was investigated experimentally and numerically. If only the general characteristics of the run-up process and the maximum run-up are of interest, for the case of a breaking wave the post-breaking condition can be simplified and represented as a propagating bore. A numerical model using this bore structure to treat the process of wave breaking and subsequent shoreward propagation was developed. The nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) were solved using the weighted essent

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9

Saville, Jr., Thorndike. "WAVE RUN-UP ON COMPOSITE SLOPES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 6 (2011): 41. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v6.41.

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A method is presented for determining wave run-up on composite slopes from laboratory- derived curves for single slopes. The method is one of successive approximations and involves replacement of the actual composite slope with a hypothetical single slope obtained from the breaking depth and an estimated run-up value. Comparison of predicted values is made with actual laboratory data.

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10

Mj, Dripta, and Denys Dutykh. "Learning extreme wave run-up conditions." Applied Ocean Research 105 (December 2020): 102400. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2020.102400.

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11

Van der Meer, Jentsje, Yvo Provoost, and Gosse Jan Steendam. "THE WAVE RUN-UP SIMULATOR, THEORY AND FIRST PILOT TEST." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 65. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.structures.65.

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The idea of the Wave Run-up Simulator is based on the experiences with the Wave Overtopping Simulator. It is possible to simulate wave tongues overtopping a dike crest in reality. It must also be possible to simulate waves in the run-up and run-down zone of the seaward slope. This is the zone after waves have broken and when they rush-up the slope. The present paper describes this new idea of the Wave Run-up Simulator, why it is useful to develop the machine, to perform research with it and to develop a prediction method for slope strength. In fact, a prediction method can already be developed

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12

Le Mehaute, Bernard. "ON NON-SATURATED BREAKERS AND THE WAVE RUN-UP." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (2011): 6. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.6.

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Some theoretical results pertaining to the physical behavior of gravity waves on a sloped plane are presented. The notion of "saturated" breakers and "non-saturated" breakers which follow the breaking index curve is introduced. Criteria for different kinds of breaking and successive breaking of waves are presented. Some considerations on the wave run-up are deduced. Then a critical analysis of the method of characteristics is presented, with some possible refinements. Path curvature effect is taken into account and the problem of waves climbing on a dry bed is solved. Criteria for determ

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13

Özeren, M. Sinan, and Nazmi Postacioglu. "Nonlinear landslide tsunami run-up." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 691 (December 13, 2011): 440–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2011.482.

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AbstractInhomogeneous nonlinear shallow-water equations are studied using the Carrier–Greenspan approach and the resulting equations are solved analytically. The Carrier–Greenspan transformations are commonly used hodograph transformations that transform the nonlinear shallow-water equations into a set of linear equations in which partial derivatives with respect to two auxiliary variables appear. Yet, when the resulting initial-value problem is treated analytically through the use of Green’s functions, the partial derivatives of the Green’s functions have non-integrable singularities. This ha

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14

Xu, Shanshan, and Frédéric Dias. "Long Wave Run-Up Resonance in a Multi-Reflection System." Applied Sciences 10, no. 18 (2020): 6172. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/app10186172.

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Wave reflection and wave trapping can lead to long wave run-up resonance. After reviewing the theory of run-up resonance in the framework of the linear shallow water equations, we perform numerical simulations of periodic waves incident on a linearly sloping beach in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water equations. Three different types of boundary conditions are tested: fully reflective boundary, relaxation zone, and influx transparent boundary. The effect of the boundary condition on wave run-up is investigated. For the fully reflective boundary condition, it is found that resonant re

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15

Gao, Feng, Clive Mingham, and Derek Causon. "SIMULATION OF EXTREME WAVE INTERACTION WITH MONOPILE MOUNTS FOR OFFSHORE WIND TURBINES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 22. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.structures.22.

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Extreme wave run-up and impacts on monopile foundations may cause unexpected damage to offshore wind farm facilities and platforms. To assess the forces due to wave run-up, the distribution of run-up around the pile and the maximum wave run-up height need to be known. This paper describes a numerical model AMAZON-3D study of wave run-up and wave forces on offshore wind turbine monopile foundations, including both regular and irregular waves. Numerical results of wave force for regular waves are in good agreement with experimental measurement and theoretical results, while the maximum run-up he

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16

Iryanto and S. R. Pudjaprasetya. "A Coupled Model for Wave Run-up Simulation." East Asian Journal on Applied Mathematics 7, no. 4 (2017): 728–40. http://dx.doi.org/10.4208/eajam.181016.300517b.

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AbstractSimplified models like the shallow water equations (SWE) are commonly adopted for describing a wide range of free surface flow problems, like flows in rivers, lakes, estuaries, or coastal areas. In the literature, numerical methods for the SWE are mostly mesh-based. However, this macroscopic approach is unable to accurately represent the complexity of flows near coastlines, where waves nearly break. This fact prompted the idea of coupling the mesh-based SWE model with a meshless particle method for solving the Euler equations. In a previous paper, a method to couple the staggered schem

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17

Hafsteinsson, Helgi J., Frederic M. Evers, and Willi H. Hager. "Solitary wave run-up: wave breaking and bore propagation." Journal of Hydraulic Research 55, no. 6 (2017): 787–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2017.1356756.

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18

Gurbatov, Sergey, and Efim Pelinovsky. "Probabilistic characteristics of narrow-band long-wave run-up onshore." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 19, no. 9 (2019): 1925–35. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-19-1925-2019.

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Abstract. The run-up of random long-wave ensemble (swell, storm surge, and tsunami) on the constant-slope beach is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water theory in the approximation of non-breaking waves. If the incident wave approaches the shore from the deepest water, run-up characteristics can be found in two stages: in the first stage, linear equations are solved and the wave characteristics at the fixed (undisturbed) shoreline are found, and in the second stage the nonlinear dynamics of the moving shoreline is studied by means of the Riemann (nonlinear) transformation of

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19

Fuchs, Helge, and Willi H. Hager. "Scale Effects of Impulse Wave Run-Up and Run-Over." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 138, no. 4 (2012): 303–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000138.

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20

Yeh, Harry H., Abdulhamid Ghazali, and Ingunn Marton. "Experimental study of bore run-up." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 206 (September 1989): 563–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112089002417.

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Bore propagation near the shoreline, the transition from bore to wave run-up, and the ensuing run-up motion on a uniformly sloping beach are investigated experimentally. As a bore approaches the shoreline, the propagation speed first decelerates by compressing its wave form and then suddenly accelerates at the shoreline. Although this behaviour is qualitatively in agreement with the inviscid shallow-water wave prediction (often called the ‘bore collapse’ phenomenon), unlike the genuine bore-collapse phenomenon, the acceleration is caused by the ‘momentum exchange’ process, i.e. collision of th

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21

Seyama, Akira, and Akira Kimura. "CRITICAL RUN-UP HEIGHT ON THE SEA WALL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 164. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.164.

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This study aims at clarifying the difference between irregular and periodic wave run-ups on a slope or a sea wall. Since hydraulic phenomena on a slope are the induced result of an interaction between a running up wave and a back-wash. The run-up height, therefore, has to be investigated in terms of a back-wash properties in addition to run-up wave properties. The experiments which are so designed that waves can run up on a slope without meeting back-wash, were conducted to evaluate the back-wash effects. The relative run-up heights K /HQ of periodic waves in these experiments reached up to ab

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22

Shimozono, Takenori. "Long wave propagation and run-up in converging bays." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 798 (June 3, 2016): 457–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2016.327.

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Analytical solutions are derived to describe two-dimensional wave evolution in converging bays. Three bay types of different cross-sections are studied: U-shaped, V-shaped and cusped bays. For these bays, the two-dimensional linear shallow water equations can be reduced to one-dimensional linear dispersive wave equations if the transverse flow acceleration inside them is assumed to be small. The derived solutions are characterized as the leading-order plane-wave solutions with higher-order corrections for two-dimensionality due to wave refraction. Wave amplitude longitudinally increases with d

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23

Saville, Thorndike. "AN APPROXIMATION OF THE WAVE RUN-UP FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (2011): 4. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.4.

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The distribution of wave steepness (H/T ) for fully developed sea is obtained from Bretschneider's joint distribution of wave height and wave period. This steepness distribution is used with standard wave runup curves to develop a frequency curve of wave run-up. Use of this run-up distribution curve will permit more accurate estimation of the variability in wave run-up for design cases, and particularly the percent of time in which run-ups will exceed that predicted for the significant wave. The distribution may also be used with normal overtopping procedures to determine more accurate estimat

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24

INAGAKI, Takeshi, Keiko UDO, and Akira MANO. "Prediction Model of Breaking Wave Run-up." Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) 65, no. 1 (2009): 116–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/kaigan.65.116.

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25

ADITYAWAN, Mohammad Bagus, and Hitoshi TANAKA. "MODELING OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVE RUN UP." Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B3 (Ocean Engineering) 67, no. 2 (2011): I_607—I_612. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/jscejoe.67.i_607.

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26

Mase, H. "Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up." Coastal Engineering 12, no. 2 (1988): 175–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(88)90004-x.

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27

Pillai, Karthika, Amir Etemad-Shahidi, and Charles Lemckert. "Wave run-up on bermed coastal structures." Applied Ocean Research 86 (May 2019): 188–94. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2019.02.006.

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28

Ezersky, A., N. Abcha, and E. Pelinovsky. "Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 20, no. 1 (2013): 35–40. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-20-35-2013.

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Abstract. Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequency and magnitude of the maximum amplification are in good correlation with the numerical calculation results represented in the paper (Stefanakis et al., 2011). These effects are very importa

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29

Shugan, Igor, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, and Ray-Yeng Yang. "TSUNAMI RUN-UP ON THE HORIZONTAL BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 10. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.10.

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Tsunami run-up on the flat horizontal beach is studied by using the Benney shallow water equations. The dam-breaking flow includes vortexes, vertical shear flow and dissipation of momentum and energy on the front due to bore breaking. Propagating of hydrodynamics bores with breaking is analyzed by the mass, momentum and energy relations on the shock wave. Non dissipative wave front propagates faster than classical bore, while taking into account the dissipation and wave breaking leads to slowing of the wave front.

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30

Dao, M. H., H. Xu, E. S. Chan, and P. Tkalich. "Modelling of tsunami wave run-up, breaking and impact on vertical wall by SPH method." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Discussions 1, no. 3 (2013): 2831–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhessd-1-2831-2013.

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Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modeling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on vertical wall using two methods, the enhanced Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic

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31

Dao, M. H., H. Xu, E. S. Chan, and P. Tkalich. "Modelling of tsunami-like wave run-up, breaking and impact on a vertical wall by SPH method." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 13, no. 12 (2013): 3457–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-13-3457-2013.

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Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modelling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a vertical wall using two methods, an enhanced smoothed particle hydrodynam

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32

Garborg, Karsten, Thomas Lykke Andersen, Jesper Skourup, and Peter Bak Frigaard. "Re-Analysis of Run-Up Levels for Slender Monopiles." International Journal of Ocean and Coastal Engineering 02, no. 01n02 (2019): 1950002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s2529807019500027.

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In the present paper, the experimental data on wave run-up on slender monopiles from recently published small and large scale tests are reanalyzed using different methods for the wave analysis. The hypothesis is that the post processing has an impact on the results, due to depth limited and highly nonlinear waves in many of the tests. Thus, the identified maximum waves by a zero-down crossing analysis are highly influenced by the reflection analysis method as well as by bandpass filtering. The stagnation head theory with the run-up coefficient is adopted and new coefficients are presented. The

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33

Kantarzhi, Izmail, Sergii Kivva, and Natalia V. Shunko. "NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE RUN-UP AT PERMEABLE FIXED REVETMENT SLOPE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 32. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.structures.32.

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The numerical model of wave surface elevation and water filtration in the saturated-unsaturated porous medium is developed. The model uses to define the parameters of the wave run-up at the slope protected by the permeable fixed layer. The model shows the wave surface in the different times, including the wave run-up height at the slope and wave run-down. Also, the velocities in the upper protected layer as well in the soil body of the slope are defined. Model is verified with using of the published large-scale tests with the slopes protected by Elastocoast technology layers. The tests were ca

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34

Yao, Yu, Ruichao Du, Changbo Jiang, Zhengjiang Tang, and Wancheng Yuan. "Experimental Study of Reduction of Solitary Wave Run-Up by Emergent Rigid Vegetation on a Beach." Journal of Earthquake and Tsunami 09, no. 05 (2015): 1540003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s1793431115400035.

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Extensive studies have been carried out to study the performance of mangrove forests in wave height reduction. In this study, the reduction of the inundation and run-up of leading tsunami waves by mangrove forests was investigated through a series of laboratory experiments conducted in a long wave tank. The inundation and run-up were measured using a high speed CCD camera. Solitary waves were used to model the leading tsunami waves. Five vegetation models representing three forest densities and two tree distributions were examined on an impermeable sloping beach, and they were compared with th

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35

KUBOTA, SUSUMU. "Characteristic of reflected wave in actual wave run-up area." PROCEEDINGS OF COASTAL ENGINEERING, JSCE 36 (1989): 119–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/proce1989.36.119.

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36

HWANG, KAO-SHU, YU-HSUAN CHANG, HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG, and YI-SYUAN LI. "LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES." Journal of Earthquake and Tsunami 01, no. 03 (2007): 257–72. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s1793431107000158.

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The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by

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37

Wang, Lei, Shou Xian Zhu, Xun Qiang Li, Wen Jing Zhang, and Wen Chao Wang. "Comparison of Wave Run-Up Formulas by Flume Experiments." Applied Mechanics and Materials 556-562 (May 2014): 4151–54. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.556-562.4151.

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The wave run-up formulas from the Code of Hydrology for Sea Harbour (CHSH), the Code for design of levee project (CDLP) and Hunt are all widely used, but they are in different forms of mathematical equations. In this paper, some flume experiments for wave run-up are made to examine these formulas. The tests show that the wave run-up formula from Hunt is in good agreement with the experiments. The wave run-up formula from CDLP has been usually used in steep slopes, while the tests show that it is also in good agreement with the experiments in the small slope flume. The wave run-up formula from

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38

Oppikofer, Thierry, Reginald L. Hermanns, Nicholas J. Roberts, and Martina Böhme. "SPLASH: semi-empirical prediction of landslide-generated displacement wave run-up heights." Geological Society, London, Special Publications 477, no. 1 (2018): 353–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.1144/sp477.1.

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AbstractDisplacement waves (or tsunamis) generated by sub-aerial landslides cause damage along shorelines over long distances, making run-up assessment a crucial component of landslide risk analysis. Although site-specific modelling provides important insight into the behaviour of potential waves, more general approaches using limited input parameters are necessary for preliminary assessments. We use a catalogue of landslide-generated displacement waves to develop semi-empirical relationships linking displacement wave run-up (R in metres) to distance from landslide impact (x in kilometres) and

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39

Silva, Guilherme Vieira da, Paula Gomes da Silva, Rafael Sangoi Araujo, Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein, and Elírio E. Toldo Jr. "Wave run-up on embayed beaches. Study case: Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil." Brazilian Journal of Oceanography 65, no. 2 (2017): 187–200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/s1679-87592017133706502.

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ABSTRACT This paper presents a new approach for estimating run-up on embayed beaches based on a study of the microtidal coast of Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil using the surf similarity parameter and wave height at break location. The four step methodology involved: 1) direct wave measurement (34 days), wave run-up measurement (19 days at 7 points within the bay), measurement of bathymetry and beach topography in the entire bay; 2) tests on available formulae to calculate wave run-up; 3) use of the SWAN spectral wave model to simulate wave parameters at breaking at each wave run-up measuremen

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40

Ezersky, A., D. Tiguercha, and E. Pelinovsky. "Resonance phenomena at the long wave run-up on the coast." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 13, no. 11 (2013): 2745–52. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-13-2745-2013.

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Abstract. Run-up of long waves on a beach consisting of three pieces of constant but different slopes is studied. Linear shallow-water theory is used for incoming impulse evolution, and nonlinear corrections are obtained for the run-up stage. It is demonstrated that bottom profile influences the run-up characteristics and can lead to resonance effects: increase of wave height, particle velocity, and number of oscillations. Simple parameterization of tsunami source through an earthquake magnitude is used to calculate the run-up height versus earthquake magnitude. It is shown that resonance effe

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41

Archetti, Renata, and Maria Gabriella Gaeta. "WAVE RUN-UP OBSERVATION AND 2DV NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON BEACHES PROTECTED BY STRUCTURES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 20. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.20.

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The main parameter for the assessment of coastal vulnerability and sediment transport is the wave run-up on the beach, defining the limit of maximum flooding, but also hydrodynamic properties in the Swash Zone (SZ) are trivial for the comprehension of hydro-morphodynamic processes. Several studies have been carried out on the SZ but few literature is still available on the run-up and on SZ flows on beaches protected by Low Crested Structures (LCSs), where flow motion is driven by a combination of low frequency infra-gravity waves and incident waves. In presence of breakwaters, swash incident w

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Adityawan, Mohammad Bagus, and Hitoshi Tanaka. "Bed stress assessment under solitary wave run-up." Earth, Planets and Space 64, no. 10 (2012): 945–54. http://dx.doi.org/10.5047/eps.2011.02.012.

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ADITYAWAN, Mohammad Bagus, and Hitoshi TANAKA. "BED STRESS IMPORTANCE UNDER SOLITARY WAVE RUN UP." Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B1 (Hydraulic Engineering) 67, no. 4 (2011): I_241—I_246. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/jscejhe.67.i_241.

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Van de Walle, B., J. De Rouck, P. Troch, J. Geeraerts, and P. Frigaard. "Wave run-up on rubble breakwaters: spectral effects." Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Maritime Engineering 158, no. 2 (2005): 59–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.1680/maen.2005.158.2.59.

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Kantardgi, I. G., S. L. Kivva, and N. V. Shunko. "Wave run-up on permeable fixed reveted slopes." Magazine of Civil Engineering 50, no. 06 (2014): 13–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.5862/mce.50.2.

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Brocchini, M., and R. Gentile. "Modelling the run-up of significant wave groups." Continental Shelf Research 21, no. 15 (2001): 1533–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0278-4343(01)00015-2.

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Thiagarajan, Krish P., and Nitin Repalle. "Wave run-up on columns of deepwater platforms." Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part M: Journal of Engineering for the Maritime Environment 227, no. 3 (2012): 256–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1475090212463497.

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Kobayashi, Nobuhisa, Ashwini K. Otta, and Indtajut Roy. "Wave Reflection and Run‐Up on Rough Slopes." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 113, no. 3 (1987): 282–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1987)113:3(282).

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Walton, Todd L., and John Ahrens. "Maximum Periodic Wave Run‐up on Smooth Slopes." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 115, no. 5 (1989): 703–8. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1989)115:5(703).

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Kobayashi, Nobuhisa, and Andojo Wurjanto. "Irregular Wave Setup and Run‐up on Beaches." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 118, no. 4 (1992): 368–86. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1992)118:4(368).

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