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Journal articles on the topic 'Water waves'

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Published: 4 June 2021
Last updated: 30 July 2024

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1

Groves, M. D. "Steady Water Waves." Journal of Nonlinear Mathematical Physics 11, no. 4 (January 2004): 435–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.2991/jnmp.2004.11.4.2.

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2

Strauss, Walter A. "Steady water waves." Bulletin of the American Mathematical Society 47, no. 4 (2010): 671. http://dx.doi.org/10.1090/s0273-0979-2010-01302-1.

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3

Horikawa, K., H. Maruo, and A. D. D. Craik. "Nonlinear Water Waves." Journal of Applied Mechanics 56, no. 2 (June 1, 1989): 487. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.3176115.

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4

Constantin, Adrian. "Nonlinear water waves." Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 370, no. 1964 (April 13, 2012): 1501–4. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2011.0594.

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5

Noblesse, Francis, and Chi Yang. "Elementary water waves." Journal of Engineering Mathematics 59, no. 3 (January 10, 2007): 277–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10665-006-9115-5.

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6

Hering, F., C. Leue, D. Wierzimok, and B. Jähne. "Particle tracking velocimetry beneath water waves. Part II: Water waves." Experiments in Fluids 24, no. 1 (January 26, 1998): 10–16. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s003480050145.

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7

Kogelbauer, Florian. "Symmetric irrotational water waves are traveling waves." Journal of Differential Equations 259, no. 10 (November 2015): 5271–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jde.2015.06.025.

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8

Wilkening, Jon. "Traveling-Standing Water Waves." Fluids 6, no. 5 (May 14, 2021): 187. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/fluids6050187.

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We propose a new two-parameter family of hybrid traveling-standing (TS) water waves in infinite depth that evolve to a spatial translation of their initial condition at a later time. We use the square root of the energy as an amplitude parameter and introduce a traveling parameter that naturally interpolates between pure traveling waves moving in either direction and pure standing waves in one of four natural phase configurations. The problem is formulated as a two-point boundary value problem and a quasi-periodic torus representation is presented that exhibits TS-waves as nonlinear superpositions of counter-propagating traveling waves. We use an overdetermined shooting method to compute nearly 50,000 TS-wave solutions and explore their properties. Examples of waves that periodically form sharp crests with high curvature or dimpled crests with negative curvature are presented. We find that pure traveling waves maximize the magnitude of the horizontal momentum among TS-waves of a given energy. Numerical evidence suggests that the two-parameter family of TS-waves contains many gaps and disconnections where solutions with the given parameters do not exist. Some of these gaps are shown to persist to zero-amplitude in a fourth-order perturbation expansion of the solutions in powers of the amplitude parameter. Analytic formulas for the coefficients of this perturbation expansion are identified using Chebyshev interpolation of solutions computed in quadruple-precision.
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9

Alazard, Thomas, Pietro Baldi, and Daniel Han-Kwan. "Control of water waves." Journal of the European Mathematical Society 20, no. 3 (February 13, 2018): 657–745. http://dx.doi.org/10.4171/jems/775.

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10

Krishnan, E. V. "On shallow water waves." Acta Physica Hungarica 68, no. 3-4 (December 1990): 189–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/bf03156162.

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11

Asquith, John, and G. D. Crapper. "Introduction to Water Waves." Mathematical Gazette 70, no. 451 (March 1986): 81. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/3615874.

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12

Lannes, D. "Modeling shallow water waves." Nonlinearity 33, no. 5 (March 13, 2020): R1—R57. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1361-6544/ab6c7c.

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13

Montagnier, L., J. Aissa, E. Del Giudice, C. Lavallee, A. Tedeschi, and G. Vitiello. "DNA waves and water." Journal of Physics: Conference Series 306 (July 8, 2011): 012007. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/306/1/012007.

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14

Ivanov, Rossen I. "Water waves and integrability." Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 365, no. 1858 (March 13, 2007): 2267–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2007.2007.

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Euler's equations describe the motion of inviscid fluid. In the case of shallow water, when a perturbative asymptotic expansion of Euler's equations is considered (to a certain order of smallness of the scale parameters), relations to certain integrable equations emerge. Some recent results concerning the use of integrable equation in modelling the motion of shallow water waves are reviewed in this contribution.
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15

Keller, Joseph B. "Resonantly interacting water waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 191, no. -1 (June 1988): 529. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112088001685.

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16

Davies, A. M. "Introduction to water waves." Applied Mathematical Modelling 9, no. 2 (April 1985): 147. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0307-904x(85)90128-3.

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17

Amick, C. J. "Bounds for water waves." Archive for Rational Mechanics and Analysis 99, no. 2 (June 1987): 91–114. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/bf00275873.

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18

Berti, Massimiliano, and Riccardo Montalto. "Quasi-periodic water waves." Journal of Fixed Point Theory and Applications 19, no. 1 (November 12, 2016): 129–56. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11784-016-0375-z.

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19

Dalrymple, Robert A., and James T. Kirby. "Water Waves Over Ripples." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 112, no. 2 (March 1986): 309–19. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1986)112:2(309).

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20

Ridah, S. "Shock waves in water." Journal of Applied Physics 64, no. 1 (July 1988): 152–58. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.341448.

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21

Ehrnström, Mats, and Erik Wahlén. "Trimodal Steady Water Waves." Archive for Rational Mechanics and Analysis 216, no. 2 (December 3, 2014): 449–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00205-014-0812-3.

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22

Milewski, Paul A., and Joseph B. Keller. "Three-Dimensional Water Waves." Studies in Applied Mathematics 97, no. 2 (August 1996): 149–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/sapm1996972149.

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23

Zhang, Yao, Andrew Brian Kennedy, Joannes Westerink, Nishant Panda, and Client Dawson. "NEW BOUSSINESQ SYSTEM FOR NONLINEAR WATER WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (October 12, 2012): 4. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.4.

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In this paper, a new Boussinesq water wave theory is derived which can simulate highly dispersive nonlinear waves, their depth-varying velocities, and wave-induced currents, from very deep, but still finite, depths through the surf zone to the shoreline.. Boussinesq scaling is employed. We removed the irrotationality assumption by using polynomial basis functions for velocity profile which are inserted into basic equations of motion. Keep terms up to the desired approximation level and solve the coupled weighted residual system together with vertically integrated mass equation. The computational cost is similar to normal Boussinesq theories although there are more unknown variables to be solved than that in normal Boussinesq models. Because we can reduce the number of the coupled equations by multiplying some coefficients and subtracting from each other which means the matix to be solved is in similar size as normal Boussinesq models. The models show rapid convergence to exact solutions for linear dispersion, shoaling, and orbital velocities; however, properties may be simultaneously and substantially improved for a given order of approximation using asymptotic rearrangements. This improvement is accomplished using the large numbers of degrees of freedom inherent in the definitions of the polynomial basis functions either to match additional terms in a Taylor series, or to minimize errors over a range. Future work will be focused on rotational performance in 2D model by including viscosity,breaking and turbulence.
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24

McDermott, Brian M. "Lateral line: From water waves to brain waves." Current Biology 31, no. 7 (April 2021): R344—R347. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2021.03.020.

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25

Kirby, James T., Morteza Derakhti, Michael L. Banner, and Stephan Grilli. "PREDICTING THE BREAKING STRENGTH OF GRAVITY WATER WAVES FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATER." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 9. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.9.

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We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves.Our goal is to find a robust and local parameterization to predict the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves. We use a LES/VOF model described by Derakhti & Kirby (2014) to simulate nonlinear wave evolution, breaking onset and post-breaking behavior for representative cases of focused wave packets or modulated wave trains. Using these numerical results, we investigate the relationship between the breaking strength parameter b and the breaking onset parameter B proposed by Barthelemy et al. (2018). While the results are potentially applicable more generally, in this paper we concentrate on breaking events due to focusing or modulational instability in wave packets over flat bottom topography and for conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth, with depth to wavelength ratios ranging from 0.68 to 0.13.
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26

Stamp, Andrew P., and Marcus Jacka. "Deep-water internal solitaty waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 305 (December 25, 1995): 347–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112095004654.

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An experimental investigation of mode-2 (’lump-Like’) Solitary waves propagaling on a thin interface between two deep layers of different densities is presented. Small-and large-amplitude waves behaved differently: small waves carried energy and momentum, whereas sufficiently large waves also carried mass. Weakly nonlinear theory anticipated the result for amplitudes a/h [les ] 0.5 but did not provide even a qualitative description of the large-amplitude waves. In particular, the prediction that for waves to maintain permanent form their wavelength must decrease with increasing amplitude failed; instead the wavelength of large waves was observed to increase with increasing amplitude. Furthermore, whilst the waves were expected to emerge from interactions along their precollision trajectories, the large waves actually suffered a backward shift.
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27

Iguchi, Tatsuo. "A shallow water approximation for water waves." Journal of Mathematics of Kyoto University 49, no. 1 (2009): 13–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1215/kjm/1248983028.

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28

黄, 绍书. "Interpreting Water Waves and Water Wave Refraction." Modern Physics 14, no. 02 (2024): 47–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.12677/mp.2024.142006.

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29

VORONOVICH, VYACHESLAV V., DMITRY E. PELINOVSKY, and VICTOR I. SHRIRA. "On internal wave–shear flow resonance in shallow water." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 354 (January 10, 1998): 209–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112097007593.

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The work is concerned with long nonlinear internal waves interacting with a shear flow localized near the sea surface. The study is focused on the most intense resonant interaction occurring when the phase velocity of internal waves matches the flow velocity at the surface. The perturbations of the shear flow are considered as ‘vorticity waves’, which enables us to treat the wave–flow resonance as the resonant wave–wave interaction between an internal gravity mode and the vorticity mode. Within the weakly nonlinear long-wave approximation a system of evolution equations governing the nonlinear dynamics of the waves in resonance is derived and an asymptotic solution to the basic equations is constructed. At resonance the nonlinearity of the internal wave dynamics is due to the interaction with the vorticity mode, while the wave's own nonlinearity proves to be negligible. The equations derived are found to possess solitary wave solutions of different polarities propagating slightly faster or slower than the surface velocity of the shear flow. The amplitudes of the ‘fast’ solitary waves are limited from above; the crest of the limiting wave forms a sharp corner. The solitary waves of amplitude smaller than a certain threshold are shown to be stable; ‘subcritical’ localized pulses tend to such solutions. The localized pulses of amplitude exceeding this threshold form infinite slopes in finite time, which indicates wave breaking.
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30

Fokas, Athanasios S., and Konstantinos Kalimeris. "Water waves with moving boundaries." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 832 (October 26, 2017): 641–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2017.681.

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The unified transform, also known as the Fokas method, provides a powerful methodology for studying boundary value problems. Employing this methodology, we analyse inviscid, irrotational, two-dimensional water waves in a bounded domain, and in particular we study the generation of waves by a moving piecewise horizontal bottom, as it occurs in tsunamis. We show that this problem is characterised by two equations which involve only first-order derivatives. It is argued that under the assumptions of ‘small amplitude waves’ but not of ‘long waves’, the above two equations can be treated numerically via a recently introduced numerical technique for elliptic partial differential equations in a polygonal domain. In the particular case that the moving bottom is horizontal and under the assumption of ‘small amplitude waves’, but not of ‘long waves’, these equations yield a non-local generalisation of the Boussinesq system. Furthermore, under the additional assumption of ‘long waves’ the above system yields a Boussinesq-type system, which however includes the effect of the moving boundary.
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31

Ai, Hongzhou, Lingkan Yao, Haixin Zhao, and Yiliang Zhou. "Shallow-Water-Equation Model for Simulation of Earthquake-Induced Water Waves." Mathematical Problems in Engineering 2017 (2017): 1–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2017/3252498.

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A shallow-water equation (SWE) is used to simulate earthquake-induced water waves in this study. A finite-difference method is used to calculate the SWE. The model is verified against the models of Sato and of Demirel and Aydin with three kinds of seismic waves, and the numerical results of earthquake-induced water waves calculated using the proposed model are reasonable. It is also demonstrated that the proposed model is reliable. Finally, an empirical equation for the maximum water elevation of earthquake-induced water waves is developed based on the results obtained using the model, which is an improvement on former models.
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32

Kalra, Ruchi, M. C. Deo, Raj Kumar, and V. K. Agarwal. "RELATING DEEP WATER WAVES WITH COASTAL WAVES USING ANN." ISH Journal of Hydraulic Engineering 11, no. 3 (January 2005): 152–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/09715010.2005.10514809.

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33

Ahn, Kyungmo, Sun-Kyung Kim, and Se-Hyun Cheon. "ON THE PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTION OF FREAK WAVES IN FINITE WATER DEPTH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (December 15, 2012): 13. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.13.

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This paper presents the occurrence probability of freak waves based on the analysis of extensive wave data collected during ARSLOE project. It is suggested to use the probability distribution of extreme waves heights as a possible means of defining the freak wave criteria instead of conventional definition which is the wave height greater than the twice of the significant wave height. Analysis of wave data provided such finding as 1) threshold tolerance of 0.2 m is recommended for the discrimination of the false wave height due to noise, 2) no supportive evidence on the linear relationship between the occurrence probability of freak waves and the kurtosis of surface elevation 3) nonlinear wave-wave interactions is not thh primary cause of the generation of freak waves 4) the occurrence of freak waves does not depend on the wave period 5) probability density function of extreme waves can be used to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. Three different distribution functions of extreme wave height by Rayleigh, Ahn, and Mori were compared for the analysis of freak waves.
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34

Zavolgensky, M. V., and P. B. Rutkevich. "Turbulent wind waves on a water current." Advances in Geosciences 15 (May 13, 2008): 35–45. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/adgeo-15-35-2008.

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Abstract. An analytical model of water waves generated by the wind over the water surface is presented. A simple modeling method of wind waves is described based on waves lengths diagram, azimuthal hodograph of waves velocities and others. Properties of the generated waves are described. The wave length and wave velocity are obtained as functions on azimuth of wave propagation and growth rate. Motionless waves dynamically trapped into the general picture of three dimensional waves are described. The gravitation force does not enter the three dimensional of turbulent wind waves. That is why these waves have turbulent and not gravitational nature. The Langmuir stripes are naturally modeled and existence of the rogue waves is theoretically proved.
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35

Kartashova, Elena. "Nonlinear resonances of water waves." Discrete & Continuous Dynamical Systems - B 12, no. 3 (2009): 607–21. http://dx.doi.org/10.3934/dcdsb.2009.12.607.

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36

McOwen, Robert, and Peter Topalov. "Asymptotics in shallow water waves." Discrete & Continuous Dynamical Systems - A 35, no. 7 (2015): 3103–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.3934/dcds.2015.35.3103.

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37

Bona, Jerry, Mark Groves, Mariana Haragus, and Erik Wahlén. "Mathematical Theory of Water Waves." Oberwolfach Reports 12, no. 2 (2015): 1029–83. http://dx.doi.org/10.4171/owr/2015/19.

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38

Groves, Mark, Mariana Haragus, and Erik Wahlén. "Mathematical Theory of Water Waves." Oberwolfach Reports 16, no. 3 (September 9, 2020): 1919–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.4171/owr/2019/32.

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39

Fenton, John D. "POLYNOMIAL APPROXIMATION AND WATER WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 15. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.15.

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A different approach to the solution of water wave problems is considered. Instead of using an approximate wave theory combined with highly accurate global spatial approximation methods, as for example in many applications of linear wave theory, a method is developed which uses local polynomial approximation combined with the full nonlinear equations. The method is applied to the problem of inferring wave properties from the record of a pressure transducer, and is found to be capable of high accuracy for waves which are not too short, even for large amplitude waves. The general approach of polynomial approximation is well suited to problems of a rather more general nature, especially where the geometry is at all complicated. It may prove useful in other areas, such as the nonlinear interaction of long waves, shoaling of waves, and in three dimensional problems, such as nonlinear wave refraction and diffraction.
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40

Scheffner, Norman W. "BIPERIODIC WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 55. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.55.

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The propagation of waves in shallow water is a phenomenon of significant practical importance. The ability to realistically predict the complex wave characteristics occurring in shallow water regions has always been an engineering goal which would make the development of solutions to practical engineering problems a reality. The difficulty in making such predictions stems from the fact that the equations governing the complex three-dimensional flow regime can not be solved without linearizing the problem. The linear equations are solvable; however, their solutions do not reflect the nonlinear features of naturally occurring waves. A recent advance (1984) in nonlinear mathematics has resulted in an explicit solution to a nonlinear equation relevant to water waves in shallow water. This solution possesses features found in observed nonlinear three-dimensional wave fields. The nonlinear mathematical formulation referred to above has never been compared with actual waves, so that its practical value is unknown. The purpose of the present investigation was to physically generate three-dimensional nonlinear waves and compare these with exact mathematical solutions. The goals were successfully completed by first generating the necessary wave patterns with the new U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC) directional spectral wave generation facility. The theoretical solutions were then formed through the determination of a unique correspondence between the free parameters of the solution and the physical characteristics of the generated wave.
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41

Meng, Yan, Yiran Hao, Sébastien Guenneau, Shubo Wang, and Jensen Li. "Willis coupling in water waves." New Journal of Physics 23, no. 7 (July 1, 2021): 073004. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1367-2630/ac0b7d.

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42

Alazard, Thomas, Nicolas Burq, and Claude Zuily. "Strichartz estimates for water waves." Annales scientifiques de l'École normale supérieure 44, no. 5 (2011): 855–903. http://dx.doi.org/10.24033/asens.2156.

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43

Yakimov, Yu L., and A. Yu Yakimov. "Forced waves on shallow water." Moscow University Mechanics Bulletin 65, no. 4 (August 2010): 81–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.3103/s0027133010040023.

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44

Wu, Theodore Yaotsu. "Modeling Nonlinear Dispersive Water Waves." Journal of Engineering Mechanics 125, no. 7 (July 1999): 747–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-9399(1999)125:7(747).

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45

Strauss, Walter A. "Erratum to “Steady Water Waves”." Bulletin of the American Mathematical Society 48, no. 1 (January 1, 2011): 153. http://dx.doi.org/10.1090/s0273-0979-2010-01325-2.

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46

Sekhar, T. Raja, and V. D. Sharma. "Interaction of Shallow Water Waves." Studies in Applied Mathematics 121, no. 1 (July 2008): 1–25. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9590.2008.00402.x.

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47

Mader, Charles L., and Robert L. Street. "Numerical Modeling of Water Waves." Computers in Physics 3, no. 4 (1989): 103. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.4822852.

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48

Fedele, Francesco. "Geometric phases of water waves." EPL (Europhysics Letters) 107, no. 6 (September 1, 2014): 69001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1209/0295-5075/107/69001.

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49

Mindlin, I. M. "Water Waves: Theory and Experiments." Fluid Dynamics 55, no. 4 (July 2020): 498–510. http://dx.doi.org/10.1134/s001546282003009x.

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50

Balk, A. M. "A Lagrangian for water waves." Physics of Fluids 8, no. 2 (February 1996): 416–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.868795.

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