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Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Water waves'

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Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 30 July 2024

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1

Gidel, Floriane Marie Pauline. "Variational water-wave models and pyramidal freak waves." Thesis, University of Leeds, 2018. http://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/21730/.

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A little-known fact is that, every week, two ships weighing over 100 tonnes sink in oceans, sometimes with tragic consequences. This alarming observation suggests that maritime structures may be struck by stronger waves than those they were designed to withstand. These are the legendary rogue (or freak) waves, i.e., suddenly appearing huge waves that have traumatised mariners for centuries and currently remain an unavoidable threat to ships, and to their crews and passengers. Thus motivated, an EU-funded collaboration between the Department of Applied Mathematics (Leeds University) and the Maritime Research Institute Netherlands (MARIN) supported this project, in which the ultimate goal, of importance to the international maritime sector, is to develop reliable damage-prediction tools, leading to beneficial impact in terms of both safety and costs. To understand the behaviour of rogue waves, cost-effective water-wave models are derived in both deep and shallow water. Novel mathematical and numerical strategies are introduced to capture the dynamic air-water interface and to ensure conservation of important properties. Specifically, advanced variational Galerkin finite-element methods are used to provide stable simulations of potential-flow water waves in a basin with wavemakers and seabed topography, which allows reliable simulations of rogue waves in a target area. For optimised computational speed, wave absorption is considered with a beach on which waves break and dissipate energy. Robust integrators are therefore introduced to couple the potential-flow model to shallow-water wave dynamics at the beach. Experimental validation of the numerical tank is conducted at Delft University of Technology to ensure accuracy of the simulations from the wavemaker to the beach. The numerical tank is designed for subsequent use by MARIN to investigate the damage caused by rogue waves on structures in order to update maritime design practice and to ensure safety of ships, therefore leading to a competitive commercial advantage across Europe.

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2

Bird, Charlotte C. "Nonlinear interactions of water waves, wave groups and beaches." Thesis, University of Bristol, 1999. http://hdl.handle.net/1983/c8fedc4e-9c73-4791-b1d8-b4ff14646025.

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3

Sampson, Joe. "Some solutions of the shallow water wave equations." Swinburne Research Bank, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/1959.3/35957.

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Thesis (PhD) - Swinburne University of Technology, Faculty of Engineering and Industrial Sciences, 2008.
A thesis presented for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, Mathematics discipline, Faculty of Engineering and Industrial Sciences, Swinburne University of Technology, 2008. Typescript. Bibliography: p. 245-259.

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4

Jervis, Mark T. "Some effects of surface tension on water waves and water waves at a wall." Thesis, University of Bristol, 1996. http://hdl.handle.net/1983/d25e7f7d-bea4-4f94-a524-ebdeff698b95.

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The work presented here mainly concerns the effects of surface tension on steep gravity waves. These are investigated by extending a numerical program to include surface tension. The work has been influenced by contact with coastal engineers, and as a result the third chapter is devoted to the study of waves near a wall, in particular on shallow water. The two themes are brought together in the final substantial chapter which has significant implications for the extrapolation of results from small scale experiments to prototype scale. Chapter 1 introduces capillary waves. In chapter 2, results from the potential flow solver for nonlinear almost steady waves are compared with the theoretical work of Longuet-Higgins (1963,1995) and experiments Perlin, Ting & Lin (1993) and found generally to be in agreement. Some differences between our numerical results and the work of these authors are highlighted and explained. Chapter 3 relates to coastal engineering applications and considers a different type of surface wave, the gravity waves found in front of coastal structures. The study focuses on the hydrodynamic parameters on the bed under such waves. In particular, trends as the water depth is decreased and the failure of linear theory on shallow depths. Study of the interaction of such waves with coastal structures is continued in chapter 4. The flow of water due to the overtopping of a vertical wall by waves is modelled. Results for overtopping volume per wave are in general agreement with experimental data on overtopping rates. The model is used to investigate the effect of different shapes for bed geometry in front of the wall. The preceding chapters are brought together in the final sections. The inclusion of surface tension allows us to perform overtopping calculations for the small scale waves often used in wave experiments. We find that surface tension can significantly affect the overtopping volumes and run-up heights

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5

Marchant, Timothy Robert. "On short-crested water waves." Title page, contents and introduction only, 1988. http://web4.library.adelaide.edu.au/theses/09PH/09phm3151.pdf.

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6

Baldock, Thomas Edward. "Non-linear transient water waves." Thesis, Imperial College London, 1994. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.432369.

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7

Metje, Nicole. "Sediment suspension under water waves." Thesis, University of Birmingham, 2002. http://etheses.bham.ac.uk//id/eprint/5264/.

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Data collected in a large scale laboratory wave flume by a research team using the autonomous bottom boundary layer rig, (STABLE) was the subject of this study. The near bed suspension processes were examined relating them to the hydrodynamics. The deployment of a number of sensors allowed the assessment of their individual performance including the analysis of the pump-sampling and acoustic concentration data. Wavelet analysis was applied to identify the influence of STABLE on the vortex ripples in the vicinity of the rig. It revealed that the modification of the ripple dimensions around STABLE's feet was very localised. Sediment suspension was found to be strongly correlated to wave groups. The measured concentrations and empirical models based on convective and diffusive entrainment mechanisms were compared. A model based on the jet like ejection of particles between a vortex pair was developed and showed that lifting of sediments up to ten ripple heights above the bed was possible. A second model, capable of simulating the pumping effect, included this entrainment process to simulate the suspension under wave groups taking the suspension history into account. The behaviour of neutrally buoyant particles in a laboratory wave flume was videoed and revealed jet like ejections and horizontal movement over two or more ripple wavelengths.

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8

Baumstein, Anatoly I. Saffman P. G. Saffman P. G. "Nonlinear water waves with shear /." Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1997. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-01042008-093737.

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9

Hunter, Samuel. "Waves in shallow water magnetohydrodynamics." Thesis, University of Leeds, 2015. http://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/11475/.

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The dynamics of planetary and stellar objects are dominated by the fluid motions of electrically conducting media. Often, such fluid is confined to a shallow layer, perhaps in an atmosphere or bounded by stratification. One such layer is the solar tachocline: a thin layer of high velocity shear in the Sun, which is permeated by strong magnetic fields. The discovery of the solar tachocline has inspired the derivation of the equations of shallow water magnetohydrodynamics (SWMHD), in which the small aspect ratio of vertical to horizontal length scales is used to simplify the governing equations. This thesis takes these equations as a base, and aims to build on knowledge of the wave-like dynamics supported in the shallow water system. It will be shown that the analogy between the shallow water and 2D compressible hydrodynamic systems is broken with the introduction of magnetic field, and the differences between the two systems discussed. An energy conservation law will be derived and be used to infer stability properties of the SWMHD system. We will then construct a multi-layer system, and consider linear wave-like perturbations to a motionless basic state with a uniform magnetic field. Particular focus will be on the 2- and 3-layer models, and the effect of magnetic field strength on wave properties. A weakly nonlinear analysis reveals that the single layer and 2-layer rigid lid weakly non-hydrostatic models support solitary and cnoidal waves. The effect of magnetic field in the single layer case translates to a long-time rescaling, but has much more of an effect on the supported modes in the 2-layer model. The phenomenon of three-wave resonance is also supported in the single layer system, and magnetic influence is discussed. In rotating SWMHD, we find that resonant triad interactions are supported only in the presence of magnetic field. Weakly nonlinear predictions are found to be accurate at low disturbance amplitudes, when compared to the results from a fully nonlinear numerical scheme. Exact nonlinear solutions are derived and categorised, and their stability addressed using numerics.

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10

Zitti, Gianluca. "Avalanche-induced impact water waves." Doctoral thesis, Università Politecnica delle Marche, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/11566/242980.

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Questa tesi propone un primo studio, mediante un modello bidimensionale semplificato, della generazione di tsunami in bacini d’acqua a causa dell’impatto di valanghe di neve. Uno studio analitico è stato effettuato mediante l’applicazione delle equazioni di bilancio ad un volume di controllo che include la zona di impatto della valanga e di formazione dell’onda. Le equazioni ottenute evidenziano quali sono i parametri fisici coinvolti nel problema. Inoltre, riscrivendo l’equazione di bilancio in termini di moto del baricentro della massa solida sommersa, si ottiene l’equazione di un oscillatore armonico. Lo studio mediate approccio grafico mostra una forma della soluzione simile al caso a coefficienti costanti, confrontabile con i dati sperimentali ed utilizzabile per la determinazione di funzioni predittive del moto della massa solida dopo l’impatto. Lo studio sperimentale è stato condotto mediante prove in canaletta variando le caratteristiche adimensionali della slavina che influenzano la formazione dell’onda e rilevando l’elevazione della superficie libera e il moto della massa solida impattata. Le caratteristiche dell’onda generata e del moto della massa impattata sono state confrontate, mediante regressioni non lineari (NLR), alle caratteristiche della slavina, arrivando a definire due coefficienti che mostrano eccellenti capacità previsionali delle caratteristiche dell’onda generata in prossimità dell’impatto. Il moto del baricentro della massa sommersa può essere efficacemente approssimato con le equazioni del moto dell’oscillatore armonico smorzato a coefficienti costanti. Mediante NLR, i coefficienti di tali equazioni sono stati scritti in termini dei coefficienti predittivi della slavina. Infine, lo studio delle caratteristiche dell’onda nello spazio suggerisce la presenza di una zona in prossimità dell’impatto in cui il comportamento dell’onda è fortemente non lineare, ma le sue caratteristiche posso essere valutate mediante le relazioni fornite.
In this thesis, a first study of the tsunamis generated by the impact of snow avalanches into water basin has been conducted, by means of a simplified two-dimensional (in the vertical plane) model. The problem has been first studied analytically, by applying the mass and momentum balance principles on a control volume, that includes the zones of avalanche impact and wave formation. The obtained equations have highlighted the physical parameters involved in the impulse waves generated by snow avalanches. Further, the balance equation has been written in terms of motion of the submerged solid mass barycentre, obtaining the equation of a simple damped harmonic oscillator (with non constant coefficients). The graphical study of the solution is consistent with the experimental data and has been used for the determination of predictive functions of the motion of the solid mass after the impact. The experiments have been conducted in a water flume, varying the dimensionless avalanche characteristics that affect the wave generation and acquiring the free surface elevation and the motion of the impacted solid mass. The characteristics of both the generated wave and the motion of the impacted mass have been related, using nonlinear regressions, to the avalanche characteristics, obtaining two impulse product parameters. The motion of the submerged mass barycentre has been approximated with the equations of the motion of a simple damped harmonic oscillator with constant coefficients obtaining and, by means of multiple nonlinear least square regressions, the coefficients of such equations have been related to the avalanche characteristics and to the impulse product parameters. Finally, the analysis of the space-depending avalanche characteristics suggests the existence of a zone in the proximity of the impact, where the wave has a strongly nonlinear behavior, but its characteristics can be predicted by the relations described in the present thesis.

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11

Karjanto, Natanael. "Mathematical aspects of extreme water waves." Enschede : University of Twente [Host], 2006. http://doc.utwente.nl/57607.

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12

Jillians, William James. "The overturning of steep water waves." Thesis, University of Cambridge, 1988. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.328707.

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13

Smith, Susan Frances. "Large transient waves in shallow water." Thesis, Imperial College London, 1999. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.313296.

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14

Skyner, D. J. "The mechanics of extreme water waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 1993. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.496343.

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15

Wright, A. D. "Power extraction from shallow water waves." Thesis, Queen's University Belfast, 2004. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.411806.

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16

Krotov, Mikhael. "Water waves over a muddy seabed." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/45283.

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Thesis (S.M.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Aeronautics and Astronautics, 2008.
Includes bibliographical references (p. 199-200).
A generalized viscoelastic model is used to describe the rheological properties of mud and is fitted to the available experimental data, so that its constitutive coefficients are just material properties independent of the frequency of the external forcing. We integrate this model into a perturbation analysis to solve the interaction between a thin layer of viscoelastic mud and sinusoidal waves propagating on top of a water layer of intermediate depth. In contrast with the previous studies the analysis is done for decaying water waves and a rheological model with frequency independent coefficients. The leading order motion and the mean second order motion inside the mud layer is determined analytically together with the first two orders motion in water. The analysis is done in a fixed Eulerian frame and it is shown that both a mean horizontal displacement and a Eulerian mean horizontal velocity exists inside the mud layer at the second order. The effect of elasticity and viscosity on the damping of water waves and on the mean motion of the mud is studied. It is shown that a light mud with a high proportion of elasticity will significantly modify the leading order movement through damping. The results are applied to solve analytically the problem of the evolution of the narrow-banded waves propagating on top of a semi-infinite mud layer. It is shown that the presence of the mud layer gives rise to a negative mean current in water layer and to free waves generated at the edge of the mud layer and propagating at the dimensional velocity ....
by Mikhael Krotov.
S.M.

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17

Watts, Philip Raichlen Fredric. "Water waves generated by underwater landslides /." Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1997. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-10132005-133022.

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18

Qu, Wendong Wu Theodore Y. T. "Studies on nonlinear dispersive water waves /." Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 2000. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-08152006-140314.

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19

Zufiria, Juan Antonio Saffman P. G. "Part I. Symmetry breaking of water waves : Part II. On the superharmonic instability of surface water waves /." Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1987. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-03052008-090255.

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20

Aydin, Baran. "Analytical Solutions Of Shallow-water Wave Equations." Phd thesis, METU, 2011. http://etd.lib.metu.edu.tr/upload/12613349/index.pdf.

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Analytical solutions for the linear and nonlinear shallow-water wave equations are developed for evolution and runup of tsunamis &ndash
long waves&ndash
over one- and two-dimensional bathymetries. In one-dimensional case, the nonlinear equations are solved for a plane beach using the hodograph transformation with eigenfunction expansion or integral transform methods under different initial conditions, i.e., earthquake-generated waves, wind set-down relaxation, and landslide-generated waves. In two-dimensional case, the linear shallow-water wave equation is solved for a flat ocean bottom for initial waves having finite-crest length. Analytical verification of source focusing is presented. The role of focusing in unexpectedly high tsunami runup observations for the 17 July 1998 Papua New Guinea and 17 July 2006 Java Island, Indonesia tsunamis are investigated. Analytical models developed here can serve as benchmark solutions for numerical studies.

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21

Yemm, Sean P. "Field Observation of setup." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2004. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion/04Jun%5FYemm.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2004.
Thesis advisor(s): Edward Thornton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 29-31). Also available online.

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22

McNatt, James Cameron. "Cylindrical linear water waves and their application to the wave-body problem." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/20378.

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The interaction between water waves and a floating or fixed body is bi-directional: wave forces act on and cause motion in the body, and the body alters the wave field. The impact of the body on its wave field is important to understand because: 1) it may have positive or negative consequences on the natural or built environment; 2) multiple bodies in proximity interact via the waves that are scattered and radiated by them; and 3) in ocean wave energy conversion, by conservation of energy, as a device absorbs energy, so too must the energy be removed from the wave field. Herein, the cylindrical solutions to the linear wave boundary-value problem are used to analyze the floating body wave field. These solutions describe small-amplitude, harmonic, potential-flow waves in the form of a Fourier summation of incoming and outgoing, partial, cylindrical, wave components. For a given geometry and mode of motion, the scattered or radiated waves are characterized by a particular set of complex cylindrical coefficients. A novel method is developed for finding the cylindrical coefficients of a scattered or radiated wave field by making measurements, either computationally or experimentally, over a circular-cylindrical surface that circumscribes the body and taking a Fourier transform as a function of spatial direction. To isolate evanescent modes, measurements are made on the free-surface and as a function of depth. The technique is demonstrated computationally with the boundary-element method software, WAMIT. The resulting analytical wave fields are compared with those computed directly by WAMIT and the match is found to be within 0.1%. A similar measurement and comparisons are made with experimental results. Because of the difficulty in making depth-dependent measurements, only free-surface measurements were made with a circular wave gauge array, where the gauges were positioned far from the body in order to neglect evanescent modes. The experimental results are also very good. However, both high-order harmonics and wave reflections led to difficulties. To compute efficiently the wave interactions between multiple bodies, a well-known multiple-scattering theory is employed, in which waves that are scattered and radiated by one body are considered incident to another body, which in turn radiates and scatters waves, sending energy back to the first. Wave fields are given by their cylindrical representations and unknown scattered wave amplitudes are formulated into a linear system to solve the problem. Critical to the approach is the characterization of, for each unique geometry, the cylindrical forces, the radiated wave coefficients, and the scattered waves in the form of the diffraction transfer matrix. The method developed herein for determining cylindrical coefficients is extended to new methods for finding the quantities necessary to solve the interaction problem. The approach is demonstrated computationally with WAMIT for a simple cylinder and a more complex wave energy converter (WEC). Multiple-scattering computations are verified against direct computations from WAMIT and are performed for spectral seas and a very large array of 101 WECs. The multiple-scattering computation is 1,000- 10,000 times faster than a direct computation because each body is represented by 10s of wave coefficients, rather than 100s to 1,000s of panels. A new expression for wave energy absorption using cylindrical coefficients is derived, leading to a formulation of wave energy absorption efficiency, which is extended to a nondimensional parameter that relates to efficiency, capture width and gain. Cylindrical wave energy absorption analysis allows classical results of heaving and surging point absorbers to be easily reproduced and enables interesting computations of a WEC in three-dimensions. A Bristol Cylinder type WEC is examined and it is found that its performance can be improved by flaring its ends to reduce "end effects". Finally, a computation of 100% wave absorption is demonstrated using a generalized incident wave. Cylindrical representations of linear water waves are shown to be effective for the computations of wave-body wave fields, multi-body interactions, and wave power absorption, and novel methods are presented for determining cylindrical quantities. One of the approach's greatest attributes is that once the cylindrical coefficients are found, complex representations of waves in three dimensions are stored in vectors and matrices and are manipulated with linear algebra. Further research in cylindrical water waves will likely yield useful applications such as: efficient computations of bodies interacting with short-crested seas, and continued progress in the understanding of wave energy absorption efficiency.

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23

Terrill, Eric J. "Acoustic measurements of air entrainment by breaking waves /." Diss., Connect to a 24 p. preview or request complete full text in PDF format. Access restricted to UC campuses, 1998. http://wwwlib.umi.com/cr/ucsd/fullcit?p9907829.

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24

Zhang, Xueyan. "Mechanics of viscoelastic mud under water waves." Click to view the E-thesis via HKUTO, 2006. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record/B36710003.

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25

Jansen, Arne Kristian. "Asymptotic Approximations of Gravity Waves in Water." Thesis, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Department of Mathematical Sciences, 2009. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:no:ntnu:diva-9888.

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The governing equations for waves propagating in water are derived by use of conservation laws. The equations are then cast onto dimensionless form and two important parameters are obtained. Approximations by use of asymptotic expansions in one or both of the parameters are then applied on the governing equations and we show that several different completely integrable equations, with different scaling transformations and at different order of approximations, can be derived. More precisely, the Korteweg-de Vries, Kadomtsev-Petviashvili and Boussinesq are obtained at first order, while the Camassa-Holm, Degasperis-Procesi, nonlinear Schrödinger and the Davey-Stewartson equations are obtained at second order. We discuss shortly some of the properties for each of the obtained equations.

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26

Zhang, Xueyan, and 張雪岩. "Mechanics of viscoelastic mud under water waves." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2006. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B36710003.

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The Best M.Phil Thesis in the Faculties of Dentistry, Engineering, Medicine and Science (University of Hong Kong), Li Ka Shing Prize,2005-2006
published_or_final_version
abstract
Mechanical Engineering
Master
Master of Philosophy

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27

Rapp, Ronald James. "Laboratory measurements of deep water breaking waves." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1986. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/33805.

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Thesis (Ph. D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Ocean Engineering, 1986.
MICROFICHE COPY AVAILABLE IN ARCHIVES AND ENGINEERING.
Bibliography: leaves 255-260.
by Ronald James Rapp.
Ph.D.

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28

Bedard, Robert J. A. "Laboratory scale experiments with water surface waves." Thesis, University of Hull, 2013. http://hydra.hull.ac.uk/resources/hull:7242.

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The thesis presents the development, implementation and results of two series of experiments, at large and small scale, for the study of surface gravity waves. A number of measurement techniques are developed and implemented to capture space and time evolution of waves on a water surface in gravity, gravity-capillary and capillary ranges with the purpose to study the statistics of wave turbulence in terms of frequency and wave number spectra. The first series of experiments was conducted in a large wave tank of size 12 m x 6 m x 1.6 m filled with water to a depth of 0.9 m. A wave maker comprised of eight panels is controlled by a computer to generate waves at typically two frequencies; these waves are directed at different angles. Surface elevation of the resulting turbulent wave field is measured via capacitance wire probes and a fluorescent laser technique that is capable of capturing wave profiles at sufficient frame rate to access both wavenumber and frequency statistics. Following the processing of these data a comprehensive set of results describe characteristics of the life cycle of the experiment including the rise of the wave field to its statistically stationary state and the decay of the regime after energy pumped into the system from the wave maker has ceased. The first series of experiments was conducted in a large wave tank of size 12 m x 6 m x 1.6 m filled with water to a depth of 0.9 m. A wave maker comprised of eight panels is controlled by a computer to generate waves at typically two frequencies; these waves are directed at different angles. Surface elevation of the resulting turbulent wave field is measured via capacitance wire probes and a fluorescent laser technique that is capable of capturing wave profiles at sufficient frame rate to access both wavenumber and frequency statistics. Following the processing of these data a comprehensive set of results describe characteristics of the life cycle of the experiment including the rise of the wave field to its statistically stationary state and the decay of the regime after energy pumped into the system from the wave maker has ceased. Across both series of experiments the implementation of data acquisition techniques forms a significant contribution to the work undertaken and a comprehensive set of tools for measurement and analysis of data from surface waves is developed.

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29

Lokharu, Evgeniy. "Small-amplitude steady water waves with vorticity." Doctoral thesis, Linköpings universitet, Matematik och tillämpad matematik, 2017. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:liu:diva-134243.

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The problem of describing two-dimensional traveling water waves is considered. The water region is of finite depth and the interface between the region and the air is given by the graph of a function. We assume the flow to be incompressible and neglect the effects of surface tension. However we assume the flow to be rotational so that the vorticity distribution is a given function depending on the values of the stream function of the flow. The presence of vorticity increases the complexity of the problem and also leads to a wider class of solutions. First we study unidirectional waves with vorticity and verify the Benjamin-Lighthill conjecture for flows whose Bernoulli constant is close to the critical one. For this purpose it is shown that every wave, whose slope is bounded by a fixed constant, is either a Stokes or a solitary wave. It is proved that the whole set of these waves is uniquely parametrised (up to translation) by the flow force which varies between its values for the supercritical and subcritical shear flows of constant depth. We also study large-amplitude unidirectional waves for which we prove bounds for the free-surface profile and for Bernoulli’s constant. Second, we consider small-amplitude waves over flows with counter currents. Such flows admit layers, where the fluid flows in different directions. In this case we prove that the initial nonlinear free-boundary problem can be reduced to a finite-dimensional Hamiltonian system with a stable equilibrium point corresponding to a uniform stream. As an application of this result, we prove the existence of non-symmetric wave profiles. Furthermore, using a different method, we prove the existence of periodic waves with an arbitrary number of crests per period.

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30

Misra, Shubhra K. "The turbulent dynamics of quasi-steady spilling breakers theory and experiments /." Access to citation, abstract and download form provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company; downloadable PDF file Size3.11, 280 p, 2005. http://wwwlib.umi.com/dissertations/fullcit?3181879.

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31

Law, Owen Yi Kei. "Experiments on evolution of surface gravity waves from deep to shallow waters /." View abstract or full-text, 2004. http://library.ust.hk/cgi/db/thesis.pl?MECH%202004%20LAW.

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Thesis (M. Phil.)--Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, 2004.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves 57-59). Also available in electronic version. Access restricted to campus users.

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32

Chan, Tak-yee Andy. "The interaction of laminar far wake with a free surface /." Hong Kong : University of Hong Kong, 1997. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record.jsp?B1856544X.

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33

Xu, Liwei. "Computational methods for a class of problems in acoustic, elastic and water waves." Access to citation, abstract and download form provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company; downloadable PDF file, 203 p, 2009. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdweb?did=1833647381&sid=12&Fmt=2&clientId=8331&RQT=309&VName=PQD.

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34

陳健行 and Kin-hang Chan. "Computational studies of forced, nonlinear waves in shallow water." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2001. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B31224003.

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35

Dally, William R. "Wave transformation in the surf zone." Gainesville, FL, 1987. http://www.archive.org/details/wavetransformati00dall.

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36

Ballard, Valerie Jean. "Experiments with a high frequency laser slope meter." Thesis, University of Southampton, 2001. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.367969.

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Chong, Keng Shin. "Effects of short crested seas on the motions of a trolley interface for ship-to-ship cargo transfer." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2003. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion-image/03Mar%5FChong.pdf.

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Rasam, Setty Harish Raghav. "Assessment of Volumetric Water Content Using Radio Waves." Master's thesis, Alma Mater Studiorum - Università di Bologna, 2019.

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Volumetric water content evaluation in structures, substructures, soils, and subsurface in general is a crucial issue in a wide range of applications. The main weakness of subsurface moisture sensing techniques is usually related both to the lack of cost-effectiveness of measurements, and to unsuitable support scales with respect to the extension of the surface to be investigated. In this regard, Wireless Underground Sensor Network are increasingly used non-destructive tool specifically suited for characterization and measurement. It is undeniable that wireless communication technology has become a very important component of modern society. One aspect of modern society in which application of wireless communication technologies has tremendous potential is in agricultural production. This is especially true in sensing and transmission of relevant farming information such as weather, crop development, water quantity and quality, among others, which would allow farmers to make more accurate and timely farming decisions. Although many systems are commercially available for soil moisture monitoring, there are still many important factors, such as cost, limiting widespread adoption of this technology among growers. Our objective in this study was, therefore, to develop and test an affordable wireless communication system for monitoring soil moisture. WUSN is a specialized kind of WSN that mainly focuses on the use of sensors at the subsurface region of the soil, that is, the top few meters of the soil. This thesis emphasizes on comparison of experimental measurements conducted with wireless devices based on LoRa using point to point communication to the advanced channel models (precisely on single-path channel model) that were developed to characterize the underground wireless channel considering the characteristics of the propagation of EM waves in soil and their relationship with the frequency of these waves, the soil composition, and the soil moisture.

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Hasnain, Shahid. "Steady Periodic Water Waves Solutions Using Asymptotic Approach." Thesis, Linköpings universitet, Tillämpad matematik, 2011. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:liu:diva-69421.

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The aim of this work is to study the relation between two invariants of water flow in a channel of finite depth. The first invariant is the height of the water wave and the second one is the flow force. We restrict ourselves to water waves of small amplitude. Using asymptotic technique together with the method of separation of variables, we construct all water waves of small amplitude which are parameterized by a small parameter. Then we demonstrate numerically that the flow force depends monotonically on the height.

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Melinand, Benjamin. "Meteotsunamis, Proudman resonance and Corioliseffect for water waves." Thesis, Bordeaux, 2016. http://www.theses.fr/2016BORD0082/document.

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Dans ce travail nous nous intéressons aux comportement de vagues soumises à l’action d’une pression atmosphérique non constante, un fond mobile et la force de Coriolis. Une première partie est dédiée à l’étude de la résonance de Proudman. Nous proposons une approche mathématique rigoureuse pour étudier ce phénomène. Nous commençons par démontrer un résultat d’existence locale dans un cadre irrotationnel sur les équations des vagues (appelées aussi formulation de Zakharov/Craig-Sulem). Puis, nous justifions différents modèles asymptotiques pour généraliser cette résonance dans diverses situations physiques. Nous proposons en particulier une étude détaillée dans des eaux profondes dans un régime linéaire. Nous étudions aussi la propagation de vagues dans des eaux profondes dans un régime faiblement non-linéaire grâce aux équations de Saut-Xu et nous proposons un schéma numérique pour résoudre ces équations. Dans une deuxième partie, nous étudions l’effet de la force de Coriolis sur les vagues. Nous démontrons un résultat d’existence locale sur les équations Castro-Lannes, équations qui généralisent la formulation de Zakharov/Craig-Sulem dans un cadre rotationnel. Nous justifions ensuite différents modèles asymptotiques dans des eaux peu profondes en présence de la force de Coriolis. En particulier, nous proposons une généralisation des équations de Boussinesq (modèle asymptotique dans un régime faiblement linéaire) lorsque la force de Coriolis n’est pas négligeable. Ces équations nous permettent ensuite de justifier mathématiquement les ondes de Poincaré puis l’équation d’Ostrovsky qui généralise l’équation de Korteweg-De-Vries en présence de la force de Coriolis
In this work, we are interested in the evolution of water waves under the influence of a non constant atmospheric pressure, a moving bottom and a Coriolis forcing. In a first part, we study the Proudman resonance. We propose a mathematical approach to understand this phenomenon. First, we prove a local wellposedness result in a irrotational framework on the water waves equations (also called the Zakharov/Craig-Sulem formulation). Then, we fully justify different asymptotic models. In particular, we carefully study the Proudman resonance in deep water in the linear regime. Finally, we study the propagation of water waves in a weakly nonlinear regime thanks to the Saut-Xu equations and we propose a numerical scheme in order to solve these equations. In a second part, we study the influence of a Coriolis forcing on water waves. We prove a local wellposedness result on the Castro-Lannes equations, which generalize the Zakharov/Craig-Sulem formulation in the rotational framework. Then, we fully justify different asymptotic models when we take into account a Coriolis forcing. In particular, we generalize the Boussinesq equations (asymptotic model in a weakly nonlinear regime) in this setting. Thanks to these equations, we justify the Poincaré waves and then the Ostrovsky equation, which generalize the Korteweg-De- Vries equation when a Coriolis forcing is taking into account

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Parsons, N. F. "The interaction of water waves with thin plates." Thesis, University of Manchester, 1994. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.508749.

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Robinson, Tristan Oliver. "Gravity currents in the presence of water waves." Thesis, University College London (University of London), 2007. http://discovery.ucl.ac.uk/1445076/.

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This thesis describes a laboratory study on the effect of free surface progressive waves on high Reynolds number gravity currents generated by instantaneous release of finite volumes of dense homogeneous fluid. The waves and gravity currents are studied as two-dimensional and the flows across the width of the flume are assumed to be constant. The engineering applications of this investigation will provide an insight into the processes by which dredging plumes are dispersed and flows propagate into estuaries at the coastline. This investigation examines the process at a fundamental level and gives a summary of the key characteristics and trends of the gravity current in the marine environment. This work has been carried out in the wave current flume at UCL using a number of advanced flow measuring techniques such as Laser Doppler Velocimetry to measure the orbital velocities of the waves and Particle Image Velocimetry to measure the internal dynamics of the gravity current. The position and density profiles of the gravity current were measured using digital images. In a static environment a gravity current spreading in two directions has symmetry in shape and distance from the point of release. In the presence of waves, the gravity current fronts propagate with and against the wave direction. The wave motion induces an asymmetry in the shape and rate of propagation of the gravity current fronts. Under certain wave conditions the overall length of the gravity current is found to be unchanged by the presence of the waves and the characteristics of the gravity current are similar to the case in static ambient water. However, in some cases the overall distance is severely modified by the wave motion. In addition to modifying the propagation rate of the gravity current the wave-induced mean flow modifies the profile of the gravity current head. The direction of the gravity current relative to the wave motion is vital in determining the rate of dispersion and the height of the density current.

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Shipway, Ben. "Trapped modes in linear water waves and acoustics." Thesis, University of Bristol, 2003. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.274610.

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McIver, M. P. "The interaction of water waves with submerged bodies." Thesis, University of Bristol, 1985. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.356225.

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Zainali, Amir. "High-Fidelity Numerical Simulation of Shallow Water Waves." Diss., Virginia Tech, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/73653.

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Tsunamis impose significant threat to human life and coastal infrastructure. The goal of my dissertation is to develop a robust, accurate, and computationally efficient numerical model for quantitative hazard assessment of tsunamis. The length scale of the physical domain of interest ranges from hundreds of kilometers, in the case of landslide-generated tsunamis, to thousands of kilometers, in the case of far-field tsunamis, while the water depth varies from couple of kilometers, in deep ocean, to few centimeters, in the vicinity of shoreline. The large multi-scale computational domain leads to challenging and expensive numerical simulations. I present and compare the numerical results for different important problems --- such as tsunami hazard mitigation due to presence of coastal vegetation, boulder dislodgement and displacement by long waves, and tsunamis generated by an asteroid impact --- in risk assessment of tsunamis. I employ depth-integrated shallow water equations and Serre-Green-Naghdi equations for solving the problems and compare them to available three-dimensional results obtained by mesh-free smoothed particle hydrodynamics and volume of fluid methods. My results suggest that depth-integrated equations, given the current hardware computational capacities and the large scales of the problems in hand, can produce results as accurate as three-dimensional schemes while being computationally more efficient by at least an order of a magnitude.
Ph. D.

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Lee, Seung-Joon Wu Theodore Y. T. "Generation of long water waves by moving disturbances /." Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1985. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-04012008-151918.

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Kakollu, Satyanarayana. "Numerical simulation of strong turbulence over water waves." Master's thesis, Mississippi State : Mississippi State University, 2003. http://library.msstate.edu/etd/show.asp?etd=etd-12112002-125436.

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Chan, Fung Chi. "Investigation of water wakes in shallow environment /." View abstract or full-text, 2005. http://library.ust.hk/cgi/db/thesis.pl?CIVL%202005%20CHANFC.

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McPhillips, Kenneth J. "Far field shallow water horizontal wave number estimation given a linear towed array using fast maximum likelihood, matrix pencil, and subspace fitting techniques /." View online ; access limited to URI, 2007. http://0-digitalcommons.uri.edu.helin.uri.edu/dissertations/AAI3276997.

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Ohl, Clifford Owen Groome. "Free surface disturbances and nonlinear runup around offshore structures." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2000. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:320ff8da-c225-40da-a7dd-d6cf55c97b51.

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Diffraction of regular waves, focused wave groups, and random seas by arrays of vertical bottom mounted circular cylinders is investigated using theoretical, computational, and experimental methods. Free surface elevation η is the defining variable used to test the potential theory developed. In addition, the nonlinearity of focused wave groups is investigated through the Creamer nonlinear transform and analysis of numerical wave tank data. Linear focused wave group theory is reviewed as a method for predicting the probable shape of extreme events from random wave spectra. The Creamer nonlinear transform, a realistic model for steep waves on deep water, is applied in integral form to simulate nonlinear focused wave groups. In addition, the transform is used to facilitate analysis of nonlinear wave-wave interactions within focused wave groups from a uni-directional numerical wave tank developed at Imperial College London. Experiments in an offshore wave basin at HR Wallingford are designed to measure free surface elevation at multiple locations in the vicinity of a multicolumn structure subjected to regular and irregular waves for a range of frequencies and steepness. Results from regular wave data analysis for first order amplitudes are compared to analytical linear diffraction theory, which is shown to be accurate for predicting incident waves of low steepness. However, second and third order responses are also computed, and the effects in the vicinity of a second order near trapping frequency are compared to semi-analytical second order diffraction theory. Analytical linear diffraction theory is extended for application to focused wave groups and random seas. Experimental irregular wave data are analysed for comparison with this theory. Linear diffraction theory for random seas is shown to give an excellent prediction of incident wave spectral diffraction, while linear diffraction theory for focused wave groups works well for linearised extreme events.

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