Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Textile quality'

The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, but – aside from a few exceptions – has been considered to be undesirable by both the industry and consumers. The work presented in this licentiate thesis suggests that, due to change in some form being an inherent property of textiles, it may be viable to look for alternative ways of designing and perceiving textiles that accept change as one of their qualities.  The experimental work explores change as a quality in textiles from the perspective of the textile material, and examines irreversible changes in textiles from three different perspectives: form, use, and teaching changeability in the field of textile design. Changes in colour, pattern, texture, and structure were explored by developing knitted and woven textiles using materials with pronounced changeable properties, and exposing these to various stimuli, such as outdoor conditions and use in workshops. The experiments suggest that the combination of material and structure defines how textiles change when exposed to various stimuli. A material’s properties define what the textile reacts to and how, while the structure of the textile influences how it changes through the amount and placement of materials. In addition, time and the handling of a textile shape the exact changes that take place. Designing with changeability as a quality in textiles opens up for alternative possibilities as regards creating expressions, wherein time and change are design variables alongside more traditional qualities, and could encourage a diversity of lifespans and changes over various timescales, better connecting textiles to the properties of their raw materials. This may mean that an alternative method for evaluating quality based on change instead of permanence could be viable, wherein the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles is questioned.

The aim of this work was to establish a range of suitable process parameters which can be utilized to produce needlepunched nonwoven fabrics for geotextile applications. Nonwoven fabrics were produced from 100% PP, a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf and 100% kenaf fibres. The depths of needle penetration of 4, 7 and 10 mm, stroke frequencies of 250, 350 and 450 strokes/min and mass per unit area of 300, 600 and 900 g/m2 were utilized for producing the fabrics, on a Dilo loom. The effect of depth of needle penetration, stroke frequency and mass per unit area on the fabric properties, namely, tensile strength, puncture resistance, pore size, water permeability and transmissivity were analysed. In addition, the effect of chemicals, namely, 10% ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH), 10% sodium chloride (NaCl) and 3% sulphuric acid (H2SO4) solutions on degradation of the fabric was also studied. The results have shown that density, thickness and nominal weight of the needlepunched nonwoven fabrics were related to each other and they were influenced by stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and feed rate of the needlepunching process. The increase in nominal weight of the fabrics also increases thickness and density of the fabrics. The tensile strength and puncture resistance of the fabrics increased with the increases in stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and fabric mass per unit area. However, lower tensile strength and puncture resistance were achieved in the fabrics produced at lower stroke frequency, lower depth of needle penetration and lower mass per unit area. Bigger pores were resulted in the fabrics produced at lower stroke frequency, lower depth of needle penetration and lower mass per unit area, however, pore size decreased with increases in stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and mass per unit area. Water permeability depends on the pore size, properties of the fibres, stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and mass per unit area. Higher tensile strength and higher puncture resistance were achieved in the needlepunched nonwoven fabrics produced from 100% PP fibres, therefore, they are suitable for some load-bearing geotextile applications, such as reinforcement and separation. However, higher water permeability was achieved in the fabrics produced from 100% kenaf fibres, therefore, they are ideal for geotextile applications where good water permeability is required. Higher values for transmissivity were obtained in the fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf fibres, therefore they are suitable for drainage applications. The fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf fibres achieved better values of tensile strength, puncture resistance, pore size and water permeability in comparison to that produced from 100% PP and 100% kenaf fibres. However, better tensile strength and puncture resistance were achieved in the fabrics produced from 100% PP fibres and bigger pore size and higher water permeability were achieved in the fabrics produced from 100% kenaf fibres. Therefore, it can be suggested that the nonwoven fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf fibres can fulfil almost all requirements of geotextile applications, such as, filtration, separation, reinforcement and drainage. The fabrics produced from 100% PP fibres were not damaged or deteriorated when treated with all the three chemicals due to chemical inertness of polypropylene. However, the fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf and 100% kenaf fibres were damaged and deteriorated when treated with H2SO4.

[Abstract]: The textile industry has a recurrent white speck nep problem in cotton. “White specks” are immature clusters of fibres that are not visible as defects until dyeing, after which they remain white on the surface of a darkly dyed fabric, or appear as non uniform streaks in the fabric. Both results render the fabric unsuitable for commercial fashion fabrics. The white speck potential of cotton is difficult to predict except in extremely immature cottons. Competitive synthetic fibres are uniform in length and strength and never have a maturity problem resulting in dye defects. They are much more predictable in the mill. As a result, cotton faces the risk of being replaced by synthetic fibres. Industry requires a method to predict fabric quality from cotton bale fibre properties to minimize this risk. This research addresses the problem of predicting white specks in dyed cotton fabrics. It is part of a large study, which is supported jointly by US and Australian agencies. The main objective is to predict fabric quality from bale fibre properties given controlled gin and mill processing. Gin and mill processing must be controlled so that field and varietal effects can be seen without the interaction of mechanical processing differences. This results in achieving other objectives, including the provision of baseline data for Australian varieties, ginning effects and comparison of ring and open-end spinning. Initially a reliable method for measuring white specks had to be found. Several systems have been evaluated and are reported here. The systems accuracy was compared using fabrics from the US Extreme Variety Study (EVS), which was grown specifically to have different levels of white specks. The fabrics made from the US (Leading Variety Study 1993 (LVS) and The American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) Cotton Variety Processing Trials, 2001) and the Australian (1998 & 1999) variety studies were analysed using AutoRate-2-03, the best of the image analysis systems studied. The final release of AutoRate (February 2003) was developed by Dr. Bugao Xu to measure white specks on dark fabrics in conjunction with this research. This final analysis of these studies results in white speck prediction equations from high-speed fibre measurement systems. This information should be immediately useful to as a tool to measure the effects of field and ginning practices on the levels of white specks without having to carry the research out to finished fabrics. Cotton breeders will be able to use the equations in the development of new varieties with low white speck potential, by eliminating varieties with high white speck potential early on. The research will continue on a much larger scale in the US and hopefully a WSP (White Speck Potential) value will be incorporated into the US Cotton Grading System.

Qualité et flexibilité sont les deux atouts de l'industrie textile des pays industrialisés pour faire face à la concurrence. Pour jouer son rôle de référence, le contrôle qualité doit être automatisé. Insuffisantes, les machines actuelles doivent être améliorées tant au niveau des méthodes que des matériels: c'est ce qui a été fait dans le cadre d'un programme BRITE. Les travaux ont porté sur les méthodes et particulièrement sur l'extraction des défauts de leur contexte texture. La méthode proposée s'appuie sur un principe connu, la transformée de Fourier et débouche sur un filtrage nouveau permettant une détection de parties de défaut, qu'il faut donc compléter par une procédure spécifique de chainage intra et intercamera. Étendue aux tissus tissés teints, la méthode offre de nouvelles possibilités en matière de segmentation d'image colorée. La réalisation d'un prototype correspondant de machine d'inspection a permis de constater (pour des tissus monochromes) la qualité des résultats, à un type de défaut près et de garantir la faisabilité industrielle de cette machine. Pour les tisses teints, les tests sont probants mais demandent une validation industrielle.

Thesis (MTech (Quality))Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Cape Town, 2008.
The South African Government provides support to the clothing and textile industry by making funding available through programs in the Department of Science and Technology, such as the Tshumisano Technology Stations Program. The Technology Stations Program in particular supports a Technology Station in Clothing and Textiles (TSCT) at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT), serving the needs for technology support and skills upgrading of the industry in the Western Cape, and in some instances, nationally. The TSCT testing laboratory provides testing services to small medium and large companies in South Africa at a reduced cost. The laboratory emphasises that customers should have fabrics tested before production commences. In this regard, the company will know the quality of the fabric or garment being purchased or manufactured. The laboratory technicians and assistants undergo a 'Woolworths' certification process on their test methods on an annual basis. The Woolworths certification is customer based. The laboratory is faced on a daily bases with the problem that more and more of their customers request that the facility should seek higher 'accreditation', as opposed to the current 'certification' it currently holds. The TSCT testing laboratory in addition has a responsibility to satisfy all of its customer certification and accreditation needs. Against this background, the management of the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory is now seeking accreditation from the South African National Accreditation System (SANAS) to widen the spectrum of its testing abilities. The primary research objectives of this dissertation are: To determine what the requirements are for SANAS accreditation by the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory. To determine if the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory is subject to a forced intervention for SANAS accreditation. To determine the criteria required for the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory accreditation. To determine the benefits that could be gleaned from this accreditation. To determine the effectiveness of the laboratory system, with regard to the fact that in addition to testing, the laboratory is used for teaching and learning. Descriptive research will serve as the research type, as it will describe an existing phenomena taking place. The research will be theoretical in nature and conducted in terms of both positivistic and phenomenological paradigms. Case study research will serve as research method. Data collection for the proposed research will be conducted using questionnaires. The CPUT Clothing and Textile Technology Department will serve as sampling frame, while the sample of respondents will be drawn on the basis of probability sampling. The sample will include lecturing staff, students, industry testing customers, textile test laboratory technicians, administration and support staff, all of whom are directly involved with the operation or make use of the laboratory facilities.

Because of their ubiquity and low cost fabrication techniques, electronic textiles (e-textiles) are an excellent platform for pervasive computing. Many e-textile applications are already available in the commercial, military, and academic domains, but most are very highly specialized and do not lend themselves easily to reuse or alteration. The purpose of this work is threefold: development of a methodology for building flexible and reusable applications that facilitates their use in the evolution of more complex systems, creation of a resource manager that realizes the methodology and enforces quality of service guarantees on tightly constrained textile resources, and construction of a simulation environment that allows for the rapid development and reconfiguration of systems to circumvent the need for the expensive physical prototyping process. This work discuss the effectiveness and appropriateness of the deployed event-driven hierarchical service model for application development. Additionally, this work explores the results of providing fault tolerance and quality of service guarantees in a textile environment that is particularly susceptible to faults. Further addressed by this work is the success of rapid prototyping and evaluation of applications in the simulation environment.
Master of Science

This work aims to verify the impacts that the reversing process in the results of quality and productivity produced in textile companies in Cearà which adopted this strategy. After analyzing the value chains, many companies that at first outsourced are now rethinking their decisions and when needed taking an inverse approach, that is, not outsourcing their activities any more. That is why it is important to understand what are the main factors that lead to this process. The research related to the outcome is of descriptive and exploring nature; regarding the approach to the problem, it is of quality concerning. Based on bibliographic research that subsidized the referential theory proceeded further investigation giving support to the empirical analyses. Semi-structured Questioner and interviews were carried out with executives managers and operatives in three textile companies of great capacity in CearÃ, based in deliberate exemplification. The results show that the strategic decisions of the reversing process has been motivated by the commitment to the quality of products and procedures, targeting mainly the best quality service to the clients. This derived from several problems pointed out by companies that by outsourcing operate.
O trabalho tem como objetivo verificar os impactos da reverticalizaÃÃo de processos nos resultados de qualidade e produtividade gerados em empresas tÃxteis cearenses que optaram por esta estratÃgia. ApÃs anÃlise na sua cadeia de valor, muitas empresas, que incialmente adotaram o processo da terceirizaÃÃo, estÃo repensando suas decisÃes e quando necessÃrio, seguindo o caminho inverso, ou seja, desterceirizando suas atividades. Portanto, torna-se importante, compreender quais foram os principais fatores motivadores deste processo. A pesquisa, quanto aos fins, à de natureza descritiva e exploratÃria; com relaÃÃo à abordagem do problema, à de foco qualitativo. Com base na pesquisa bibliogrÃfica, que subsidiou o referencial teÃrico, procedeu-se a uma busca de campo, que deu suporte à anÃlise empÃrica. Foram aplicados questionÃrios e entrevistas semi-estruturadas para os gestores executivos e operacionais em trÃs empresas tÃxteis de grande porte do CearÃ, com base na amostragem intencional. Os resultados indicam que a decisÃo estratÃgica da reverticalizaÃÃo foi motivada pelo compromisso com a qualidade de seus produtos e processos, visando principalmente ao melhor atendimento aos clientes. Isto decorreu de problemas diversos observados pelas empresas com a terceirizaÃÃo de suas atividades-meio. Palavras-chave: reverticalizaÃÃo, terceirizaÃÃo, cadeia de valor e indÃstrias tÃxteis.

Thesis (M. S.)--Polymer, Textile and Fiber Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2009.
Committee Chair: Dr. Radhakrishnaiah Parachuru; Committee Member: Dr. Dong Yao; Committee Member: Dr. Fred Cook; Committee Member: Dr. Wallace Carr; Committee Member: Dr. Yehia El Mogahzy

Businesses are constantly striving for a competitive edge in the economy, and data-driven decision making is crucial to achieve this goal. Four data mining tools, principal component analysis, cluster analysis, recursive partitioning, and discriminant analysis, were used to explore the major factors that contribute to ends down in a rotor spinning manufacturing process. Principal component analysis was used to explore the research question about whether the large number of cotton properties used to classify cotton could be reduced to a significant few. Cluster analysis was used to gain insight about whether there were groups of gins, counties, or classing offices that produced better raw material than others and led to less ends down. The important research question of what raw material properties were affecting ends down was explored with both recursive partitioning and discriminant analysis. Additional research investigated the effect of cotton variety and atmospheric conditions on spinning productivity. Each of the four data mining tools used was informative and offered a different perspective to the overall research question. Several significant factors emerged including humidity, temperature, %DP 555, and uniformity in addition to micronaire and the color properties (+b and Rd). With these results the researcher developed an improvement plan for better control and increased spinning productivity in future operations. A designed experiment is necessary to thoroughly investigate the impact of certain factors beyond the exploratory conclusions obtained from this study.

The entire thesis text is included in the research.pdf file; the official abstract appears in the short.pdf file; a non-technical public abstract appears in the public.pdf file. Title from PDF of title page (University of Missouri--Columbia, viewed on December 18, 2009). Thesis advisor: Dr. Jung Ha-Brookshire. Includes bibliographical references.

Centrée sur l'espace constitué par le royaume de France et ses colonies, cette thèse met en évidence les structures et les dynamiques du marché de l'indigo, entre le milieu du XVIIe et la fin du XVIIIe siècle. Colorant exotique principalement employé en teinture, l'indigo fait partie de ces nouveaux produits qui transforment la palette des couleurs à l'époque moderne. Le secteur de la finition des étoffes est alors un secteur fondamental de la production textile. Il est réglementé afin de garantir aux consommateurs la solidité et la beauté des couleurs, mais au cours du XVIIIe siècle, devient aussi le cœur de l'innovation textile afin de répondre aux nouvelles demandes d'une population qui a adopté la « culture des apparences » (Daniel Roche). La France est au cœur du marché de l'indigo européen et atlantique en raison de sa position dominante dans la production et redistribution du colorant bleu, Saint-Domingue étant le principal producteur d'indigo pendant tout le XVIIIe siècle. La longue distance et le grand nombre d'intermédiaires entre les utilisateurs et les producteurs, limite les moyens dont disposent les acteurs pour relayer leurs attentes. Le rôle des grands négociants des ports du royaume est essentiel, à l'interface entre production et consommation. La grande hétérogénéité des qualités des indigos mis sur le commerce, l'existence de réputations de qualité associées aux différentes zones de production pour l'Europe, qui recoupent des filières de distribution distinctes par empire, invite à s'interroger sur l'éventuelle segmentation des marchés, en fonction des effets recherchés en teinture et des réseaux de redistribution
From the middle of the 17th to the end of the 18th century, the French empire had a dominant position in the market for indigo in Europe. From Saint-Domingue, indigo was imported in France and then reexported to the Mediterranean and North European countries. Indigo was a tropical dyestuff that was widely used in the textile industry on cotton, silken and woolen textiles. The dyeing industry was one of the most innovative sectors in the textile industry, closely connected with new inflows of tropical dyestuffs, technical exchanges with Asia and the Americas and the birth of modem chemistry. This dissertation aims at showing how in the long distance trade, producers and users of indigo were able to communicate, considering that indigo was a highly heterogeneous dyestuff

Bast fibrous renewable materials, as commercial crops for the manufacture of textile based and other products, have been used for thousands of years to satisfy certain human needs, such as for shelter, clothing, source of energy and tools, and to sustain the livelihood of many communities in countries, such as in Asia, Europe and Africa. Concern for the environment has led to a number of global initiatives that favour the use of natural fibres. It is forecast that the global fibre demand by 2050 will be 130 million tonnes, which the cotton and synthetic fibre production will not be able to meet. Other than the environmental concerns, the renewed global interest in natural fibres, such as flax and hemp, forms part of a strategy to satisfy the fibre demand. South Africa, notwithstanding the fact that the flax and hemp industries have long been established for thousands of years in Europe, Asia and Egypt (Africa), has no history of the breeding, growing, processing and production of these cash crops. The renewed global interest in these crops has also stimulated interest from South Africa with respect to the development of a flax and hemp fibre industry so as to address some of the socio-economic challenges confronting the country today in its attempts to bring about real development in the rural areas through the cultivation and complete beneficiation of these fibre crops. In this regard, the relevant stakeholders, namely government, research councils, tertiary education institutions, farmers and communities worked together to investigate whether South Africa has the agronomic and climatic conditions, technical expertise as well as the necessary processing and production infrastructure to support the development of a local flax and hemp agro-industry. The purpose of this study was firstly to evaluate the performance of EU flax and hemp cultivars grown under different agronomic conditions in South Africa, and their effect on straw biomass yield, fibre yield and total fibre yield per hectare as well as associated fibre properties, and secondly to undertake mechanical fibre modification trials aimed at producing flax and hemp fibres with fibre diameters close to those of cotton. The minimum fibre diameter targeted being 20μm. In accordance with the project objectives and work plan, selected dew retted flax and hemp straw samples from the various planting sites selected by the Agriculture Research Council – Institute for Industrial Crops, representing all the agronomic conditions under investigation, were taken to the CSIR for fibre extraction and testing. A relatively inexpensive and easy to operate Russian designed and manufactured machine, the CMT-200M breaker-cum-scutcher, was used for fibre extraction and the resultant extracted fibre bundles were further refined, using a steel comb, to obtain optimal fibre separation before their physical and chemical properties were evaluated. Results obtained in this research study proved that the climatic and agronomic conditions in South Africa were suitable for the cultivation of flax and hemp, notwithstanding the fact that the fibre yields achieved for hemp were lower than the minimum criteria of 23 percent, and that for flax only just exceeded the 25 percent minimum. The lack of local technical expertise on the growing and retting of flax and hemp, contributed to the low fibre yields. The planting parameters which were found to produce good results for the cultivation of hemp were the October planting date, using a row spacing of between 12.5 to 25 cm, with a seeding density of between 80 – 100kg, and the application of 50 – 100kg nitrogen fertiliser. The use of extra artificial lighting and herbicide treatment did not appear to beneficially improve the hemp fibre yields. Similar considerations for flax cultivation in the Southern Cape region, particularly Oudtshoorn and Outeniqua, indicated that May to July planting dates, using inter-row spacing of 25cm and sowing density of 63kg seed.haˉ¹, produced a fibre yield and total fibre yield per hectare above the minimum values of 25 percent and 0,8 tonnes per hectare, respectively, quoted in the literature.

Si la gestion de l'entreprise industrielle a continuellement subi des mutations philosophiques et technologiques importantes (production en Juste-à-Temps, Total Quality Management, robotique, nouvelles technologies de l'information, etc.), les systèmes d'évaluation de la performance qui sont supposés jouer un rôle d'assistance et d'aide à la décision managériale doivent régulièrement accompagner ces mutations. Dans le présent travail, nous proposons une méthodologie conceptuelle d'évaluation de la performance globale d'une entreprise qui opère sous l'optique du Total Quality Management. Le besoin en modélisation du phénomène de la performance est pour clarifier une relation floue et contradictoire entre la performance et le TQM puisque la littérature managériale n'a pas aboutit à une conclusion ferme sur la nature de cette relation. A ce propos, la littérature nous offre trois situations typiques. La première stipule une relation statistiquement positive entre la performance globale et le TQM. Une deuxième situation avec un effet neutre. Enfin, la troisième situation peut mener des conséquences négatives sur l'entreprise. En effet, un modèle conceptuel liant les pratiques critiques du TQM et la performance globale a été développé. Suite à une méthodologie claire basée sur une étude exploratoire auprès de 102 entreprises opérantes dans le secteur Textile-Habillement nous a permis d'identifier la nature de cette relation. A ce propos, une analyse en composantes principales en premier lieu et une analyse de relations structurelles entre les différentes variables en second lieu ont dévoilée se lien entre le TQM-performance globale.

La durée de vie des produits est un facteur important dans l’évaluation des impacts environnementaux. Cependant, la durée de vie des articles textiles est très difficile à évaluer notamment à cause de la variété des usages par les consommateurs (entretien, porté) et de la nature des textiles (fibres et structures textiles).L’objectif de cette thèse est de mettre en place une méthodologie de prédiction de la durée de vie des vêtements en prenant en compte leur qualité, les usages et les sensibilités des consommateurs.Cette méthodologie, construite dans un cadre transdisciplinaire, met en interaction l’étude du vieillissement des vêtements en laboratoire avec l’étude du comportement des consommateurs.Ainsi, nous avons adapté un test de laboratoire pour évaluer le vieillissement de pulls-overs sous l’effet de frottements répétés. Ce protocole a été mis en place sur une série de pulls et validé par une campagne de tests au porter réalisé sur les mêmes vêtements. Les dégradations observées sont des bouloches, qui sont similaires dans les deux cas. Nous avons classé les pulls suivant leurs typologies de comportement à la dégradation avec une méthode de classification dites des K-moyennes. A partir de ces résultats, nous proposons un modèle de prédiction du vieillissement des pulls en fonction de leurs caractéristiques techniques. En définissant un seuil de défaut acceptable par les consommateurs, il est possible d’estimer la durée de vie des vêtements à partir des comportements prédits par ce modèle.Parallèlement, un sondage auprès d’un échantillon de consommateurs a été réalisé. Les résultats ont été exploités et classifiés selon une méthode de classification hiérarchique non-supervisée. Nous avons défini 4 typologies de consommateurs selon leur comportement d’achats, 3 typologies pour leurs rapport à l’environnement, et 3 selon les pratiques d’entretien de leur linge. Cette étude conclue sur une modélisation de l’usage d’un vêtement prenant en compte la diversité des profils de consommateurs et leurs usagesEnfin nous avons évalué l’influence sur les impacts environnementaux des résultats précédents grâce à l’Analyse de Cycle de Vie. En intégrant à des scénarios d’ACV les comportements de vieillissement des vêtements et les comportements d’usages associés aux différentes typologies de consommateurs nous avons montré les potentielles réductions d’impacts environnementaux possibles par l’augmentation de la durée de vie d’un vêtement et le choix de bonnes pratiques d’usage
The life span of products is an important factor in the evaluation of environmental impacts. However, the lifetime of textile articles is very difficult to evaluate, especially because of the variety of uses by consumers (maintenance, wear) and the nature of textiles (fibers and textile structures).The objective of this thesis is to develop a methodology for predicting the life span of garments by taking into account their quality, uses and consumer sensitivities.This methodology, built in a transdisciplinary framework, interacts the study of clothing aging in the laboratory with the study of consumer behavior.Thus, we have adapted a laboratory test to evaluate the aging of pullovers under the effect of repeated rubbing. This protocol was implemented on a series of pullovers and validated by a campaign of wear tests performed on the same garments. The observed degradation is pilling, which is similar in both cases. We have classified the pullovers according to their typologies of degradation behavior with a classification method called K-means. We have classified the pullovers according to their typologies of degradation behavior with a classification method called K-means. From these results, we propose a model to predict the aging of the pullovers according to their technical characteristics. By defining a threshold of defect acceptable by consumers, it is possible to estimate the life span of the clothes from the behaviors predicted by this model.In parallel, a survey of a sample of consumers was conducted. The results were analyzed and classified using an unsupervised hierarchical classification method. We defined 4 typologies of consumers according to their purchasing behavior, 3 typologies for their relationship to the environment, and 3 according to their laundry care practices. This study concludes with a model of the use of a garment taking into account the diversity of consumer profiles and their uses.Finally, we evaluated the influence on the environmental impacts of the previous results thanks to the Life Cycle Assessment. By integrating into LCA scenarios the aging behavior of clothing and the usage behavior associated with different consumer typologies, we have shown the potential reductions in environmental impacts possible by increasing the life span of a garment and choosing good usage practices

Thesis (MTech (Business Administration))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2007
An assessment undertaken by the Clothing and Textile Centre in the Western Cape (Clotex) during 2002 revealed that there was a great need for quality in the clothing sector. Furthermore, the research undertaken by the Department of Science and Technology (2004) supports and recommends the development of simple, paper-based systems for implementation and measurement for quality and production systems. An analysis of the macro- and micro-environmental factors confronting the clothing industry revealed that substantial pressure was placed on the clothing industry due to unfavourable exchange rates, increased pricing and illegal imports. The result has been a decline in sales, profits and exports, which has lead to the closure of many clothing companies in the Western Cape during the period 2003 to present. Furthermore, this has resulted in the increase of SMME companies that have been established due to the increase in unemployment. A combination of qualitative and quantitative research techniques was applied during this study, namely focus-group sessions and survey questionnaires. Six focus-group sessions were held with participants from the retail sector, large manufacturers and small manufacturers with the purpose to establish the quality needs in the clothing industry and the type of quality systems utilised. The outcome of the focus group was the development of a questionnaire, using both a combination of scale response questions as well as dichotomous questions. As a result a research survey was conducted amongst the small manufacturing companies in the Western Cape who conform to the provisions contained in the National Business Act, 1996 (Act 102 of 1996). The research revealed that all the respondents had implemented quality control systems. Quality control systems are viewed as preventative systems in ensuring that goods not conforming to customer specifications are prevented from reaching the customer. The research analysis further revealed that communication between buyer and seller was an integral part of the success of the business. The research provides small-business with a framework, which will facilitate the evaluation of the current quality practices with the view to improving or implementing an effective quality assurance system.

Malfunctions on loom machines are the main causes of faulty fabric production. An on-loom fabric inspection system is a real-time monitoring device that enables immediate defect detection for human intervention. This dissertation presented a solution for the on-loom fabric defect inspection, including the new hardware design—the configurable contact image sensor (CIS) module—for on-loom fabric scanning and the defect detection algorithms. The main contributions of this work include (1) creating a configurable CIS module adaptable to a loom width, which brings CIS unique features, such as sub-millimeter resolution, compact size, short working distance and low cost, to the fabric defect inspection system, (2) designing a two-level hardware architecture that can be efficiently deployed in a weaving factory with hundreds of looms, (3) developing a two-level inspecting scheme, with which the initial defect screening is performed on the Raspberry Pi and the intensive defect verification is processed on the cloud server, (4) introducing the novel pairwise-potential activation layer to a convolutional neural network that leads to high accuracies of defect segmentation on fabrics with fine and imbalanced structures, (5) achieving a real-time defect detection that allows a possible defect to be examined multiple times, and (6) implementing a new color segmentation technique suitable for processing multi-color fabric defects. The novel CIS-based on-loom scanning system offered real-time and high-resolution fabric images, which was able to deliver the information of single thread on a fabric. The algorithm evaluation on the fabric defect datasets showed a non-miss-detection rate on defect-free fabrics. The average precision of defect existed images reached above 90% at the pixel level. The detected defect pixels' integrity—the recall scored around 70%. Possible defect regions overestimated on ground truth images and the morphologies of fine defects similar to regular fabric pattern were the two major reasons that caused the imperfection in defect pixel locating. The experiments showed the defect areas on multi-color fabrics could be precisely located under the proposed color segmentation algorithm.

Thesis (MTech (Quality)) -- Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010
Since 1996, the South African clothing and textile industries have been under tremendous pressure to improve the competitiveness of the industry. Various attempts to save the industry have been considered by both industry and Government. The attempts included the introduction of quotas with the aim to limit imports, the formulation of clusters, and improving the value chain between the clothing manufacture textile companies and the clothing retail companies. More specific, focus was leveled at the improvement of the industry’s productivity and quality management systems. In spite of these efforts, sectors of the South African clothing and textile industries are closing down. Although the clothing and textile industries are experiencing a decline in large companies, there has been a steady increase in the number of emerging Small Medium Enterprises (SME’s) commonly referred to as CMT’s (Cut Make and Trims) within the context of the clothing industry. The research question which was researched within the ambit of this dissertation read as follows: What actions are required for Total Quality Management (TQM) to be successful implemented within South African clothing manufacturing SME’s?” The objective of this research was to determine what challenges are facing South African clothing manufacturing SME’s, and the reasons for the lack of successful implementation of TQM systems within the South African clothing manufacturing SME’s. Furthermore, to determine if there is a relationship between the planning behavior of SME’s and lack of TQM implementation and to what extent the accreditation process impact upon TQM implementations within SME’s. The survey conducted within SME’s provided positive feedback with respect to quality processes being followed. In spite of this the following challenges were identified: The lack of employee involvement in decision-making, miscommunication between management and employees, and the dissatisfaction of employees.

The excellence in quality of Italian wool fabrics, which ensures a worldwide leader position of the Biella district, depends fundamentally on three factors: the design, distinctive of the “Made in Italy”, the choice of very fine fibers and the adoption of particular finishing techniques, which ensure optimal physical characteristics especially for the tailorability of light fabrics with a special “hand”. Among the fundamental steps of the wool textile production, finishing is certainly the one that, still nowadays, depends largely on empirical knowledge. A critical review, aimed at rationalizing the process considering both the costs and the quality guarantee, requires the realization of two preliminary conditions: understanding physicochemical parameters and laws which rule the process and the development of measuring methods which allow to objectively evaluate the influence of the controlling variables. In the majority of finishing processes, the fabric is exposed to the action of water or steam, in different conditions. The main goal of finishing is relaxation and/or stabilization of internal stresses at molecular level (the so-called “setting”) generated by the complex macromolecular structure of wool fibers. This can be made by means of three basic operations: steaming, decatizing at atmospheric pressure and decatizing under pressure (KD). Actually, the last operation is the most critical one, because it is realized wrapping the textile material on a perforated drum, through which steam is fed. The whole operation is led in an autoclave, at variable temperature and pressure, depending on the textile product. A KD operation affects disulfide bonds, bringing about their redistribution, with a permanent effect. This action, called setting, is given by a fine tuning of the process variables: temperature, moisture content, treatment time and mechanical pressure. All these four variables interact reciprocally but their relationships have not been fully understood; therefore a scientific criterion is fundamental for rationalizing sequence and intensity of the operations. To reach these goals, two different approaches were adopted in the present work. The first one was based on a set of experiments on suitable bench scale equipments, carried out to monitor the process parameters (particularly temperature and moisture content) during the treatments and within the textile structure. The second approach concerns the development of theoretical models, whose application in a computer algorithm, thanks to a finite elements based simulation software, allowed to simulate the system behavior.

The aim of the thesis is based on the questionnaire survey to analyze customer satisfaction with the services of the company ODEVA, spol. s r.o. Lipany. The questionnaire was sent to customers by e-mail and data which have been collected through it have been processed into graphs and charts. The thesis is divided in two parts. In the theoretical part I define step by step services in the sphere of production, quality as well as customer satisfaction. I also describe reasons why the company should monitor customer satisfaction and at the end of this section I describe the standard procedure for monitoring and measuring customer satisfaction. The practical part deals with the short description of the textile and clothing industry in Slovakia, as well as the company in which the research was conducted. Outcomes of the research are analyzed and on that basis recommendations in order to improve services are proposed at the end of the thesis.

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the quality of design, materials, construction, appearance, and performance of mens 100% cotton jersey knit t-shirts from three retail categories: mass merchant, fast fashion, and better. These retail categories were represented by brands Fruit of the Loom, H&M, and Brooks Brothers, respectively. A convenience sample was comprised of 78 t-shirts. 13 white and 13 navy t-shirts from each brand were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards and specifications. Evaluations and measurements were conducted before washing, and after one, five, ten, and twenty laundry cycles. The t-shirts were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric count, color change, whiteness change, crocking, smoothness appearance, bursting strength, pilling, dimensional stability, and skewness. The navy t-shirts in the ‘better’ retail category met five out of the six requirements specified by the ASTM standard. However, the navy t-shirts in the ‘fast fashion’ category met four out of five met by the ‘better’ category. In conclusion, the decision to purchase a t-shirt from these retail categories may depend on consumer expectations.

In the competitive world that organizations are inserted, it is necessary to create efficient management tools that provide people make decisions. With this intention to establish management instruments that work aims to develop a general method that enables efficient management through performance indicators, achieve cost improvement of quality costs in the production process of a textile industry in the State of Cearà since their formulation to implementation and monitoring. With this, the method is created through the methodological procedures: a) field research that allowed us to collect data to measure and control the facts or phenomena on the cost and quality performance indicators in order to support in findings b) research Bibliographic that allows you to conceptualize and evaluate the suggested model and intrinsically, improve processes and manufacturing of products involving the collection, analysis and interpretation of data. Soon after this, are shown the results of quality costs with the respective performance indicators through reports of control in operating and financial sector during the months of May, June and June the years 2010, 2011 and 2012. The measurement of quality costs shows a reduction of cost control (prevention and evaluation) and an increase in failure costs (internal and external) in the years 2010 and 2011. Already in June and July 2012, there has been an increase in cost control (prevention and evaluation) and a decrease of the costs of failures (internal and external). From this, we conclude that the proposed method serves as the basis for managing quality costs, seen by the method proposed in its formulation and implementation to monitoring and can control these costs and develop new plans aimed at gaining operational efficiency and minimize quality costs with the option to think about new revolutions of research and studies for the construction of new cost management applications. Therefore, these facts boosted the organization and managers in establish a set of techniques to assess the causes and effects within the production system in order to maximize revenue and minimize costs of quality.
No mundo competitivo que estÃo inseridas as organizaÃÃes, se faz necessÃrio criar instrumentos de gestÃo eficiente que proporcionem Ãs pessoas tomarem decisÃes. Com essa intenÃÃo de instituir instrumentos de gestÃo que o trabalho tem como objetivo geral desenvolver um mÃtodo de gestÃo eficiente que possibilite, atravÃs de indicadores de desempenho, alcanÃar a melhoramento dos custos da qualidade no processo de produÃÃo de uma indÃstria tÃxtil no Estado do Cearà desde sua formulaÃÃo atà o acompanhamento e implementaÃÃo. Com isto, o mÃtodo à criado atravÃs dos procedimentos metodolÃgicos: a) pesquisa de campo que permitiu coletar dados para medir e controlar os fatos ou fenÃmenos sobre os custos da qualidade e os indicadores de desempenho com o objetivo de apoiar em conclusÃes; b) pesquisa bibliogrÃfica que permite conceituar e avaliar o modelo sugerido e intrinsecamente, melhorar os processos e a fabricaÃÃo de produtos de modo que envolva a coleta, anÃlise e interpretaÃÃo dos dados. Logo apÃs isso, sÃo mostrados os resultados dos custos de qualidade com os respectivos indicadores de desempenho por via de relatÃrios gerenciais de controle no setor operacional e financeiro durante os meses de maio, junho e junho dos anos 2010, 2011 e 2012. A mensuraÃÃo dos custos da qualidade mostra uma reduÃÃo dos custos de controle (prevenÃÃo e avaliaÃÃo) e um aumento dos custos de falhas (internas e externas) nos anos de 2010 e 2011. Jà nos meses de junho e julho de 2012, houve um aumento dos custos de controle (prevenÃÃo e avaliaÃÃo) e uma diminuiÃÃo dos custos de falhas (internas e externas). A partir disso, conclui-se que o mÃtodo proposto serve de base para gerenciar os custos da qualidade, visto pelo mÃtodo proposto em sua formulaÃÃo atà o acompanhamento e implementaÃÃo, podendo controlar esses custos e desenvolver novos planos que visem ganhar eficiÃncia operacional e minimizar os custos da qualidade com a opÃÃo de pensar em novas revoluÃÃes de pesquisas e estudos para a construÃÃo de novos aplicativos de gerenciamento de custos. Portanto, esses fatos impulsionaram a organizaÃÃo e os gestores em verificarem um conjunto de tÃcnicas para avaliar as causas e efeitos dentro do sistema de produÃÃo de forma que maximizem a receita e minimizem os custos da qualidade.

Na última década fenômenos advindos da globalização, dos avanços tecnológicos e de transporte que provocaram mudanças nas operações, nos processos e em gestão impulsionando as indústrias procuram ferramentas de melhoria continua e qualidade. Como resposta surge processos e ferramentas da qualidade no sistema produtivo da empresa introduzindo métodos e estratégias que possibilitem desenvolver essas atividades. Dentro desse contexto é necessário desenvolver um planejamento de melhoria, sugerindo correções e assessorando as tomadas de decisões. Mas, como a empresa Têxtil de pequeno porte pode garantir um sistema de gestão compatível com suas necessidades de controle, utilizando-se de politicas e práticas que assegurarem a qualidade dos produtos? O objetivo da pesquisa é identificar práticas adequadas para implantar um sistema de gestão da qualidade e de usar ferramentas para garantir a melhoria dos processos têxteis, sugerindo novas estratégias metodológicas que contribuam para auxiliar o desenvolvimento em empresas de pequeno porte. Para verificar se os controles da empresa dão suporte para a implantação do sistema de gestão da qualidade foi efetuada avaliação, analisee acompanhamento em todos os setores.
In the last decade phenomena arising from globalization, technological advances and transport that caused changes in operations, processes and management tools boosting industries seeking continuous improvement and quality. In response emerges processes and quality tools in the production system of the company introducing methods and develop strategies that enable these activities. Within this context it is necessary to develop a plan for improvement, suggesting corrections and assisting decision making. But as the company Textiles small can ensure a management system compatible with their needs for control, using the policies and practices that ensure the quality of products? The objective of the research is to identify appropriate practices for deploying a system of quality management and use of tools to ensure the improvement of textile processes, suggesting new methodological strategies that contribute to aid development in small businesses. To verify that the controls of the company to support the implementation of quality management system was conducted assessment, analysis and monitoring in all sectors.

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Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)
Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)
A indústria têxtil é responsável pela geração de efluentes que, normalmente, apresentam um nível indesejável de coloração devido à etapa de tingimento, onde utilizam-se corantes que, quando lançados nos corpos d'água, levam à alteração de sua qualidade e ocasionam efeitos danosos ao meio ambiente e à saúde humana. Em vista disso, este trabalho teve como objetivo utilizar a lama vermelha, resíduo gerado em larga escala na produção de alumínio, como meio adsorvedor do corante Reativo Blue 19, o qual possui grande aplicação industrial e características que dificultam sua remoção em solução aquosa por meio de tratamentos convencionais. Sendo assim, optou-se por ativar a lama vermelha através de tratamento químico (água do mar, nitrato de cálcio e peróxido de hidrogênio) e térmico (400ºC e 500ºC), visando identificar a interferência desses tratamentos no aumento de sua capacidade adsortiva. Para isso, foi realizada a caracterização das amostras de lama vermelha através da determinação do pH, condutividade elétrica, ponto de carga zero (PCZ) difração de raios - x (DRX) e área superficial específica, sendo que a análise granulométrica foi realizada somente para a lama vermelha in natura. Em seguida, visando determinar a capacidade adsortiva da lama vermelha ativada, foram construídas isortermas de adsorção, linearizadas segundo os modelos de Langmuir e Freundlich. Para efeito de comparação, a mesma metodologia foi aplicada ao carvão ativado visando determinar sua capacidade em adsorver o mesmo corante. Foi realizado o estudo da cinética de reação através dos modelos pseudo-segunda ordem, onde todas as amostras obedeceram ao modelo de pseudo - segunda ordem. Os resultados mostraram-se bastante promissores, sendo que a lama vermelha ativada por nitrato de cálcio a 500ºC apresentou uma...
The textile industry is responsible for the generation of effluents usually have an undersirable level of staining due to the step of dyeing, which is used dye which, when thrown into water bodies, leading to alteration of its quality and cause harmful effects the environment and human health. As a result, this study aimed to use the red mud, waste generated on a large scale in the production of aluminum, such as through adsorption of the dye Reactive Blue 19, which has a large industrial application and characteristics that hinder its removal in solution Aqueous by conventional treatments. Therefore, we chose to activate the red mud by chemical treatment (seawater, calcium nitrate and hydrogen peroxide) and thermal (400º C and 500º C) in order to identify the influence of these treatment in increasing its adsorption capacity. For this, we performed the characterization of samples of samples of red mud by determining the pH, electrical conductivity, point of zero charge (PZC) - ray diffraction (XRD) and specific surface area, and the particle size analysis was performed only for red mud in nature. Then, to determine the adsorptive capacity of activated red mud, adsorption isotherms were constructed, according to the linearized Langmuir and Freundlich models. For comparison, the same methodology was applied to activated carbon in order to determine their ability to adsorb the same dye. Was performed to study the kinetics of reaction through the pseudo-first model and pseudo-second order where all samples followed the type of pseudo-second order. The results were very promising, with the red mud activated by calcium nitrate at 500ºC showed a maximum adsorption capacity of 476.02 mg/g at pH 4. The results for the activated carbon did not indicate affinity between the adsorbate and adsorbate material, a factor... (Complete abstract click electronic access below)

The thesis is focused on reducing number of nonconformities using quality tools in the company engaged in dyeing and finishing of textile materials. The aim is a proposal of nonconformities management system. Based on analysis of the current method solving nonconformities are designed registration processes of internal nonconformities and complaints, which are followed by evaluation of nonconformities. The proposal will result in a systematic approach in solving of nonconformities.

Whole Effluent Toxicity (WET) testing has been identified as one of the tools in the management of complex effluents in aquatic ecosystems. In South Africa, toxicity testing has not been required for regulatory purposes. Recently, the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry has adopted WET testing as a tool to evaluate the suitability of hazardous effluent for discharge into receiving environments. This has necessitated suitable procedures to be established for use in the South African situation. With the implementation of the new National Water Act (No 36 of 1998), industries have to comply with set standards to protect the aquatic environment. However, the South African Water Quality Guidelines for Aquatic Ecosystems have been set using international toxicity data, and it is not known if they are comparable with South African conditions. The aim of this study was to investigate the tolerances of selected indigenous riverine invertebrates to complex saline effluents. The study investigated the effects of kraft mill effluent to Tricorythus tinctus, a tricorythid mayfly from the Sabie River, Mpumalanga, and the effects of a textile effluent to baetid mayflies of the Buffalo River, Eastern Cape. Indigenous riverine invertebrates were chosen as test organisms, as there is no toxicity data in South Africa which could be used to evaluate the level of protection afforded by the South African Water Quality Guidelines for Aquatic Ecosystems. The use of indigenous riverine invertebrates added the challenge of variability of a wild population, and the use of a complex effluent as toxicant added the variability of effluent composition. In this study, WET testing was used to determine the dilution of whole effluents required for discharge. Hazard-based guidelines were developed for the disposal of kraft and textile effluents. The level of environmental hazard posed by different effluent concentrations was ranked, and was related to the River Health Class. This indicated effluent concentrations that may be allowed to enter the aquatic environment, e.g. 3% effluent concentration guideline for both general kraft effluent and general textile effluent for the protection of a Class A river. This approach could contribute to the use of an Environmental Risk Assessment, approach for the management of complex effluents. A number of acute 96 hour toxicity tests were conducted following an unreplicated regression design, using kraft and textile effluents as toxicants, mayfly nymphs as test organisms, and river water as diluent and control. Test organisms were sampled from unimpacted, flowing-water riffle areas, and were exposed in recirculating artificial streams (or channels) to a range of effluent concentrations. Mortality was selected as end-point and observed twice daily. The experimental results showed the variability and acute toxicity of both kraft and textile mill effluents. Baetids were more sensitive (mean LC50=16% effluent concentration) to General Textile Effluent (GTE), but less sensitive to Post Irrigation Textile Effluent (PITE). Textile effluent (PITE) held in a holding dam were therefore less variable and less toxic; suggesting that stabilization of the effluent could have contributed to reduced toxicity. Effluent composition, e.g. higher calcium levels, may also have contributed to lowering toxicity. T. tinctus was sensitive to kraft effluents, but showed less variable responses to Irrigation Kraft Effluent than General Kraft Effluent. Toxicity test data indicated that GKE, IKE and GTE should not enter the aquatic environment without treatment, as they can cause adverse effects to aquatic biota. Both kraft and textile effluents must therefore be treated before discharge. Different responses to different effluent batches were probably due to effluent variability. The use of indigenous organisms, and not a standard laboratory organism, could also have contributed to variability. A hazard-based approach could be useful, as it will provide a consistent basis for deciding on the acceptability of impacts, while allowing natural site-specific differences to be taken into account.

Os tecidos de malha, principalmente os que são compostos com um percentual de algodão, apresentam algumas características tais como absorção de umidade, flexibilidade e toque agradável. Estas características têm sua origem no processo de fabricação do setor de malharia. Porém, em contraste com estas excelentes propriedades, um dos principais problemas nas roupas produzidas com estes tecidos de malha é a instabilidade dimensional. Este problema é hoje uma das maiores ameaças ao incremento do uso de tecidos de algodão para confecção de roupas externas. A literatura apresenta uma métrica, conhecida como fator de cobertura (FC), que é o resultado da combinação de duas variáveis fundamentais na malharia: título de fio e comprimento do ponto. Os estudos observados nesta pesquisa relatam a sua importância por permitir prever as características da qualidade dos tecidos de malha. Porém, é percebida a sua limitação quando aplicado em estruturas de malhas diferenciadas e inclusive em diversas malhas básicas com mais de um tipo de fio. Neste contexto, a presente dissertação tem por objetivo apresentar um novo modelo de cálculo para atender esta previsibilidade e auxiliar os profissionais envolvidos na tomada de decisão para aprovação ou reprovação nos desenvolvimentos dos tecidos de malha. Desta forma, foi realizado um estudo que buscou corrigir e ampliar a abrangência deste cálculo. Na revisão bibliográfica verificaram-se todas as variáveis que influenciam no processo físico/mecânico de fabricação dos diversos tipos de estruturas dos tecidos de malha, como também foram analisados os principais estudos nos quais este fator de cobertura foi aplicado. Um levantamento diagnóstico realizado em diversas empresas apontou a situação atual em termos de conhecimento, aplicação e necessidade do FC no processo de desenvolvimento dos tecidos de malha. Após verificação dos aspectos levantados a respeito do FC, confrontando as pesquisas de campo e bibliográfica, buscou-se uma solução para reduzir o elevado índice de insucessos e atrasos no lançamento de novos produtos. Desta forma, através do estudo das variáveis e da inclusão de todos os fios e regulagens envolvidas na estrutura da malha, concebeu-se um novo cálculo para o grau de cobertura da malha baseado no fator de cobertura de Grosberg. Posteriormente, foi elaborada uma ferramenta computacional aplicada em planilha eletrônica onde o cálculo é conduzido automaticamente após inserção dos dados necessários. Em seguida, foi elaborado um estudo comparativo entre o FC e o índice de proporcionalidade de cobertura (IPC) novo cálculo para testar a operacionalidade e a funcionalidade dos mesmos e da ferramenta proposta. Todos os participantes responderam um questionário referente às percepções sobre o modelo e a ferramenta. Por fim, a validação do IPC ocorreu por meio de análise de alguns tecidos de malha com o objetivo de investigar se os valores gerados no cálculo refletem a realidade dos resultados da qualidade obtidos na empresa. O resultado deste estudo indicou que o modelo de cálculo proposto apresenta maior confiabilidade, representatividade e assertividade no desenvolvimento dos novos tecidos de malha. Com isto, pode-se afirmar que os objetivos da dissertação foram atendidos e positivos.
The jersey fabric, mostly those are compounded of a cotton percentage, they present some characteristics, such as humidity absorption, flexibility and soft surface. These characteristics have their origins in the knitting production sector in the production process. However, the contrast with these properties, one of the main problems with the clothes made with these jersey fabrics is the dimensional instability. This Problem is today one of the biggest threat on the increase about the cotton fabric using to the manufactory of external clothes. The literature shows us a metric, known as covering factor (CF) which is the result of matching between the two fundamental varieties in the knitting: the yarn title and the sewing length. The studies observed in this research shows its importance, however, the application is just in the basic jersey fabric products or they show its concept in the research made over the fabric dimensional instability. In this context, this presentation has the objective to show the study of the application on a new covering factor calculus standard to predict the jersey fabric quality characteristics. This pattern has the objective of helping in the approving or reproving decision about the jersey fabric developments, correlating this factor with the quality characteristics like the width, length, thickness, weight by area, sewing density, resistance, and elasticity. This way was made a study about to correct and enhance this calculus. In the bibliographic revision it was checked all the varieties that had influence in the physic/mechanic process in the manufacturing of the many jersey fabric structures as were analyzed the most important studies as which ones this covering factor was applied. A diagnostic inventory was made in many companies and showed that the currently situation about knowledge application and necessity of the covering factor in the jersey fabric development process. After checking the aspects about the CF comparing the field researches and bibliographic, a solution was searched to reduce the high level failing indexes and the new products delays. In This way a new calculus was conceived for the knitting covering factor based on the Grosberg´s covering factor. After this, was elaborated a computer tool applied on an electronic table where the entire calculus is done automatically after input the necessary data. After this, was elaborated a calculus comparative study between the CF and the proportion covering index (PCI) to test the operability and the functionality of the model and the tool proposed. All the participants answered a quiz referring to the perceptions about the model and the tool. Finally, PCI validity occurred about the analyzes from some jersey fabrics with the objective of investigating if the results generated on the calculus reflected the reality of the quality results obtained at the company. The result of this study indicated that the model of the calculus proposed showed a bigger liability, representatively, and accuracy in the developing of the new jersey fabrics. With this we can confirm that the objectives of this dissertation were reached and positives.

Mechanical parameter characterization of very thin polymer films using digital im- age correlation is performed in this work. At present days DIC is widely used in the construction, food industries, and aviation. Despite advantages when compared to other conventional methods, but users still face difficulties with the analysis of thin polymers like low-density polyethylene (LDPE) and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) thin polymer films. For the application of sprays to obtain the best pattern quality as well as the potential of thin-film material properties tempering from the stochastic pattern paint. This research work will investigate the effect of several spray paints on the material response of thin polymer film. It also shows how to achieve good surface traction, time effect, and the type of spray to be used for DIC analysis. Finally, this research also studies how the width of the specimen affects the wrinkling effect, which is a common phenomenon while testing the thin polymer films and exhibits the appropriate width for reducing wrinkles on thin polymer films.

Orientador: Maria Lucia Pereira Antunes
Banca: Antonio Carlos Vieira Coelho
Banca: Fabiano Tomazini da Conceição
Resumo: A indústria têxtil é responsável pela geração de efluentes que, normalmente, apresentam um nível indesejável de coloração devido à etapa de tingimento, onde utilizam-se corantes que, quando lançados nos corpos d'água, levam à alteração de sua qualidade e ocasionam efeitos danosos ao meio ambiente e à saúde humana. Em vista disso, este trabalho teve como objetivo utilizar a lama vermelha, resíduo gerado em larga escala na produção de alumínio, como meio adsorvedor do corante Reativo Blue 19, o qual possui grande aplicação industrial e características que dificultam sua remoção em solução aquosa por meio de tratamentos convencionais. Sendo assim, optou-se por ativar a lama vermelha através de tratamento químico (água do mar, nitrato de cálcio e peróxido de hidrogênio) e térmico (400ºC e 500ºC), visando identificar a interferência desses tratamentos no aumento de sua capacidade adsortiva. Para isso, foi realizada a caracterização das amostras de lama vermelha através da determinação do pH, condutividade elétrica, ponto de carga zero (PCZ) difração de raios - x (DRX) e área superficial específica, sendo que a análise granulométrica foi realizada somente para a lama vermelha "in natura". Em seguida, visando determinar a capacidade adsortiva da lama vermelha ativada, foram construídas isortermas de adsorção, linearizadas segundo os modelos de Langmuir e Freundlich. Para efeito de comparação, a mesma metodologia foi aplicada ao carvão ativado visando determinar sua capacidade em adsorver o mesmo corante. Foi realizado o estudo da cinética de reação através dos modelos pseudo-segunda ordem, onde todas as amostras obedeceram ao modelo de pseudo - segunda ordem. Os resultados mostraram-se bastante promissores, sendo que a lama vermelha ativada por nitrato de cálcio a 500ºC apresentou uma... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo)
Abstract: The textile industry is responsible for the generation of effluents usually have an undersirable level of staining due to the step of dyeing, which is used dye which, when thrown into water bodies, leading to alteration of its quality and cause harmful effects the environment and human health. As a result, this study aimed to use the red mud, waste generated on a large scale in the production of aluminum, such as through adsorption of the dye Reactive Blue 19, which has a large industrial application and characteristics that hinder its removal in solution Aqueous by conventional treatments. Therefore, we chose to activate the red mud by chemical treatment (seawater, calcium nitrate and hydrogen peroxide) and thermal (400º C and 500º C) in order to identify the influence of these treatment in increasing its adsorption capacity. For this, we performed the characterization of samples of samples of red mud by determining the pH, electrical conductivity, point of zero charge (PZC) - ray diffraction (XRD) and specific surface area, and the particle size analysis was performed only for red mud "in nature". Then, to determine the adsorptive capacity of activated red mud, adsorption isotherms were constructed, according to the linearized Langmuir and Freundlich models. For comparison, the same methodology was applied to activated carbon in order to determine their ability to adsorb the same dye. Was performed to study the kinetics of reaction through the pseudo-first model and pseudo-second order where all samples followed the type of pseudo-second order. The results were very promising, with the red mud activated by calcium nitrate at 500ºC showed a maximum adsorption capacity of 476.02 mg/g at pH 4. The results for the activated carbon did not indicate affinity between the adsorbate and adsorbate material, a factor... (Complete abstract click electronic access below)
Mestre

O avanço crescente da tecnologia nos processos industriais atuais, bem como o elevado grau de interação de equipamentos e processos, provocou o aumento da sua sensibilidade a variações de energia, ou o aumento do grau de sensibilidade de algumas cargas industriais, o que gera interrupções de produção industrial. Essas, ocasionadas por problemas de qualidade de energia, levam a diversos fatores indesejáveis às indústrias, tais como: perdas de produção, perdas de faturamento, perda de matéria-prima, uso irracional de energia, dentre outros. Um processo têxtil apresenta grandes perdas de produção quando ocorrem esses eventos. Esta dissertação apresenta uma série seqüencial de procedimentos técnicos adotados experimentalmente em duas plantas de fiação sintética, para mitigar o impacto da qualidade de energia numa indústria química-têxtil. O problema de qualidade de energia estudado foi a variação de tensão de curta duração (VTCD), especificamente os afundamentos de tensão, sobre uma carga crítica. Quando esses eventos ocorriam, havia um grande volume de perdas no processo, em função da descontinuidade operacional provocada por esses afundamentos de tensão. Por meio de procedimentos foi possível identificar a carga crítica, no caso, os conversores estáticos de freqüência utilizados amplamente nesse processo. Uma vez identificada essa carga, foi possível a realização de intervenções objetivando reduzir a sua sensibilidade. Dois experimentos realizados através de um painel que simulou a situação do processo, com testes de afundamentos de tensão em conversores estáticos de freqüência, além de outros trabalhos experimentais utilizados como referências nessa dissertação, serviram como complemento para a conclusão. As intervenções realizadas tiveram como conseqüência a melhoria de qualidade do produto, aumento da produtividade, além de grande retorno financeiro.
The increasing evolution of technology in the current industrial processes, as well as the high interaction degree of equipment items and processes, have caused the increase in their sensitivity to voltage variations. The increase of sensitivity in some industrial loads generates interruptions in the industrial production. That happens due to power quality problems, which causes many undesired effects to the industries, such as losses in production, invoicing and raw material, unreasonable use of energy, among others. A textile process presents large production losses whenever these events in the process occur. This dissertation presents a sequence of technical procedures adopted experimentally in two yarn plants, to mitigate and reduce the impact of power quality problems in the chemical textile plant. The problem of power quality studied was short duration voltage variations, specifically the voltage sags. These events lead to a big volume of loss in the process, by operational disruption of sensitivity loads provoked by the voltage sags. By means of the proposed procedures it was possible to identify the critical load, in this case the ASD (Adjustable Speed Drive), a kind of load used extensively in the textile process; once identified this load, it was possible to carry out interventions aiming at the reduction of loads sensitivities. Two experiences were realized through a panel that simulated the process, by applying voltage sags to the drivers - ASD (Adjustable Speed Drive). Besides that other research works surveyed to complement and conclude this dissertation. The interventions realized have had as consequence the improvement in the product quality, increasing productivity, as well as an excellent payback.

Mestrado em Economia Internacional
Os têxteis e vestuário constituem uma das mais antigas e tradicionais indústrias transformadoras em todo o mundo. Ainda hoje, o processo de industrialização nos países de economia menos avançada encontra nesta indústria o motor do seu desenvolvimento. Ao longo dos séculos ela tem sido motivo de interesse, debate e acção por parte dos governos. Mas, tratando-se de uma indústria tradicional o que a torna tão polémica? - A razão está na sua substancial contribuição para o produto, emprego e comércio externo dos países. Analisamos as alterações estruturais durante as duas últimas décadas e os factores que condicionam as mudanças e ajustamentos. A necessidade de reestruturar advém das pressões geradas por mudanças na tecnologia, organização, procura, distribuição, pela globalização da produção e liberalização do comércio internacional. Neste cenário, surgem dois grandes grupos de países: os que, com custos salariais mais baixos, têm vindo a aumentar a produção e as exportações, e os países de alto rendimento que têm vindo a reduzir progressivamente a produção mas empolando as importações. Este tipo de desenvolvimentos tem dado origem a posições controversas, colocando-se a questão de saber se esta indústria terá futuro, em termos da sua competitividade, nos paises de economia avançada. Veremos que esta indústria na União Europeia tem condições intrínsecas que lhe conferem competitividade. Contudo, a questão central neste nosso trabalho é a indústria portuguesa dos têxteis e vestuário. É claramente reconhecida a sua importância como fonte de emprego, com impacto especial em algumas regiões, e a sua contribuição para o valor acrescentado bruto e na balança comercial portuguesa. Portugal possui uma longa experiência nesta indústria que remonta ao século passado e a existência de uma fileira e proximidade geográfica aos mercados europeus são oportunidades únicas. Utilizámos como base de análise dados estatísticos que nos permitem posicionar o nosso país no contexto europeu, bem como os resultados de questionários dirigidos a algumas empresas, procurando cobrir todos os segmentos. As nossas conclusões indicam que Portugal poderá ter uma indústria competitiva se os esforços de reestruturação forem concentrados em produtos especializados privilegiando atributos como: qualidade, design, imagem, resposta rápida, fabricados por empresas flexíveis e líderes inovadores.
Textiles and clothing constitute one of the oldest and most traditional manufacturing industries in the world. Even today, the industrialisation process in developing countries continues to meet in this industry its motor of development. Over the centuries it lias been a subject of interest, debate and government action. But, if it is a traditional activity what renders this industry so polemic? - The reason is: the substantial contribution to manufacturing output, employment and foreing exchange earnings. We perform a study of the changing industry1 s structure during the last two decades and the factors that influence the changes and adjustments. The need to restructure this industry stems from the pressures generated by changes in technology, organization, demand, distribution and the globalisation of production and liberalization of international trade. In this scenario, two main groups of countries now face each other in this industry: the low labour cost with continuously rising production and exports and high income countries, with declining production but rising imports. This type of developments has given rise to beliefs that this industry in advanced industrialised countries will have a gloomy future and will no longer be competitive. Can we confirm such beliefs?- We will see that the European UnioiTs textile and clothing industry is able to continue to compete vigorously. Central to our concerns is the case of the portuguese textile and clothing industry. It is clearly known its importance as a source of employment, namely in some specific regions, and its contribution to the national value added and foreign exchange earnings. Portugal has a very old textile tradition, since the last century, and the existence of a rank and our proximity to the european markets are fundamental issues in the future potencial of this industry. We have used as research background a profusion of statistical data concerning the portuguese position in the european scenario, as well as the answers of a questionnaire applied to a certain number of companies covering ali segments of the textile rank. Our conclusions indicate that the portuguese textile and clothing industry may become a very competitive one if restructuring efforts concentrate on specialized products emphasizing quality, design, image, quick response, which should be produced by flexible companies with innovative leadership.
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

La problématique de cette thèse repose sur la caractérisation de la qualité des abricots et leur aptitude à la transformation industrielle. Trois axes principaux ont guidé cette étude. Le premier consistait au départ à une caractérisation morphométrique globale des pieds clones des abricots marocains transplantés vers une station expérimentale de l’INRA Marrakech puis suivie par l’analyse de la diversité génétique. 92 accessions, issus de différentes régions géographiques, ont été génotypés en utilisant 21 marqueurs microsatellites. En effet, la collection analysée a été caractérisée par un polymorphisme élevé et une diversité génétique réduite. Au total, 120 allèles ont été identifiés avec une moyenne de 5,71 allèles par locus.Toutes les preuves statistiques (analyse hiérarchique, ACP et analyse de structure) montrent que la structure génétique de l’abricot marocain peut être subdivisée en deux populations :une majeure population constituée de la plupart des accessions de groupes génétiques(population authentique liée notamment à la variété Delpatriarca) et une seconde population moins diversifiée et liée à toutes les variétés de références, y compris la variété Canino. La variabilité observée entre les 92 génotypes pourrait être un atout pour améliorer la culture de l’abricot et permettre un développement durable dans l’espace et dans le temps du fruit par la sélection de nouveaux génotypes d’abricots. Finalement, la variabilité génétique observée a été utilisée dans le choix et la sélection de nouveaux clones d’abricots pour une analyse phénotypique. Le deuxième axe s’est intéressé à l’étude des marqueurs biochimiques qui permettent de comprendre et d’évaluer la qualité des abricots sélectionnés, à savoir : le changement des acides organiques et des sucres solubles en relation avec la qualité sensorielle, le développement des pigments et le changement de la couleur, l’’évolution des composés phénoliques en relation avec l’activité antioxydante et la perte de la texture en relation avec la biochimie de la paroi cellulaire. En effet, de bonnes propriétés physicochimiques et biochimiques ont été rapportées pour les dix clones choisis (Valeurs maximales rapportées pour certains composés bioactifs : Vitamine C = 0,15 g/kg ; β-carotène= 149,251 μg/kg ; provitamine A = 0,028 mg/kg), ainsi que des caractères qualitatifs associés à la saison de maturation et au génotype, cela représente certainement une source génétique précieuse pour prolonger la saison des abricots et alimenter les étalages et l’industrie.Le troisième axe était sur l’implication de la texture du fruit dans la transformation industrielle de l’abricot. Nous avons analysé l’aptitude variétale des abricots à la transformation industrielle, par l’analyse de leurs propriétés texturales, avant et après la transformation. Et pour mieux comprendre la variabilité de la texture de l'abricot, nous avons étudié l'impact du traitement thermique en fonction du stade de récolte des fruits sur une large gamme de cultivars français. Au final, cinq variétés d’abricots ont été choisies les plus appropriés pour le processus industriel
The problematic of this thesis is based on the characterization of the quality of apricotsand their aptitude for industrial processing. Three main axes guided this study. The first oneconsisted initially of a global morphometric characterization of Moroccan apricot clonesmaintened in experimental station of INRA of Marrakech and followed by the analysis ofgenetic diversity. 92 accessions, from different geographical regions, were genotyped using21 microsatellite markers. Indeed, the analyzed collection was characterized by a highpolymorphism and a reduced genetic diversity. A total of 120 alleles were identified with anaverage of 5.71 alleles per locus. All the statistical evidence (hierarchical analysis, PCA andstructural analysis) show that the genetic structure of Moroccan apricot can be subdivided intotwo populations : a major population made up of most accessions of genetic groups (authenticpopulation linked in particular to the Delpatriarca variety) and a second less diversifiedpopulation related to all reference varieties, including the Canino variety. The observedvariability between the 92 genotypes could be an asset to improve the apricot cultivation andto allow a sustainable development in the space and the time of the fruit by the selection ofnew genotypes of apricots. Finally, the observed genetic variability was used in the selectionof new apricot clones for phenotypic analysis. The second axis focused on the study ofbiochemical markers that allow to understand and evaluate the quality of selected apricots,namely : the change of organic acids and soluble sugars in relation to the sensory quality, thedevelopment of pigments and color change, the evolution of phenolic compounds in relationto antioxidant activity and loss of texture according to the cell wall biochemistry. Indeed,good physicochemical and biochemical properties have been reported for the ten chosenclones (Maximum values reported for some bioactif compounds : Vitamin C = 0.15 g / kg, β-carotene = 149.251 μg / kg, provitamin A = 0.028 mg / kg), as well as the qualitative traitsassociated with the maturation season and the genotype, is certainly a valuable genetic sourceto extend the apricot season and to supply stalls and industry. The third axis was on theimplication of the texture of the fruit in the industrial processing of apricot. We analyzed thevarietal ability of apricots for industrial processing by analyzing their textural propertiesbefore and after processing. And to better understand the variability of apricot texture, westudied the impact of heat treatment depending on the stage of fruit harvesting on a widerange of French cultivars. In the end, five apricots varieties were chosen as the mostappropriate for the industrial process

The primary goal of computer graphics is to create images by rendering a scene under two constraints: quality, producing the image with as few artifacts as possible, and time, producing the image as fast as possible. Technology advances have both helped to satisfy these constraints, with Graphics Processing Unit (GPU) advances reducing image rendering times, and to exacerbate these constraints, with new HD and virtual reality displays increasing rendering resolutions. To meet both constraints, rendering uses texture mapping which maps 2D textures onto scene objects. Over time, the count and resolution of textures has increased, resulting in dramatic growth of data storage requirements. Compression can help to reduce these storage requirements.

I present a rigorous texture compression evaluation methodology using final rendered images. My method can account for masking effects introduced by the texture mapping process while leveraging the perceptual-rigor of current Image Quality Assessment metrics. Building on this evaluation methodology, I present a demonstration of guided texture compression optimization that minimizes the bitrate of compressed textures while maximizing the quality of final rendered images. Guided texture compression will help with the scalability problem for optimizing texture compression in real-world scenarios.

Tese (doutorado)—Universidade de Brasília, Instituto de Ciências Exatas, Departamento de Ciência da Computação, 2017.
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Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES).
Na última década, diversas aplicações multimídia tem gerado e distribuído conteúdos de imagens e vídeos digitais. Serviços de multimídia que tem ganhado um vasto interesse incluem televisão digital, jogos de vídeo e aplicações em tempo real operando sobre a Internet. De acordo com predições da CiscoTM, a percentagem do tráfego de dados de vídeo sobre a Internet era de 53% em 2014 e superará os 67% em 2018. Devido à esse aumento na demanda de conteúdo de dados visuais, a necessidade de métodos e ferramentas que estimem a qualidade da experiência (QoE) do consumidor é enorme. Entre os aspectos que contribuem para a QoE, a qualidade dos estímulos visuais é uma das maiores propriedades, pois pode ser alterada em diversos estágios da cadeia de comunicação, tal como na captura, na transmissão, ou na reprodução do conteúdo. Considerando que os avaliadores naturais da qualidade visual são seres humanos, a estratégia básica para medir a qualidade visual consiste na realização de experimentos subjetivos. Esses experimentos são geralmente realizados com participantes humanos em laboratórios preparados com um ambiente controlado. Esses participantes avaliam a qualidade de um dado estimulo visual (imagem ou vídeo) e atribuem a eles um valor numérico associado à qualidade. Para avaliar a qualidade, os participantes seguem um conjunto de passos experimentais. Geralmente, esses passos são padronizados para favorecer a reprodutibilidade experimental. Os padrões de experimentos incluem metodologias de avaliação, tais como condições de visualização, escala de avaliação, materiais, etc. Após um conjunto de participantes avaliarem individualmente a qualidade de um dado estímulo, a média dos valores é calculada para gerar o valor médio das opiniões subjetivas (MOS). O MOS é frequentemente utilizado para representar a qualidade geral de um dado estímulo visual. Como a coleta dos MOS é realizada a partir de experimentos com seres humanos, esse processo é demorado, cansativo, caro, e laborioso. Devido ao custo dos experimentos subjetivos, um grande esforço tem sido dedicado ao desenvolvimento de técnicas objetivas para a avaliação de estímulos visuais. Essas técnicas objetivas consistem em predizer o MOS automaticamente por meio de algoritmos computacionais. Tal automação torna possível a implementação de procedimentos computacionais rápidos e baratos para monitorar e controlar a qualidade de estímulos visuais. As técnicas objetivas para a avaliação de estímulos visuais podem ser classificadas em três tipos, dependendo da quantidade de informação necessária pelo método. Se todo o estímulo de referência (original) é requerido para a estimação da qualidade do estímulo testado, então essa técnica é classificada como sendo de referência completa. Quando somente alguma informação parcial da referência é necessária, a técnica é classificada como sendo de referência reduzida. Por outro lado, quando nenhuma informação sobre o estímulo de referência é necessária, a técnica é dita como sendo sem referência. Uma vez que a exigência de uma referência completa ou parcial é um obstáculo no desenvolvimento de diversas aplicações multimídia, as técnicas de sem referência são as mais convenientes na maioria dos casos. Diversas técnicas objetivas para avaliação de qualidade visual têm sido propostas, embora ainda existam algumas questões em aberto no seu desenvolvimento. No caso de técnicas de avaliação de imagens, diversas técnicas de referência completa têm sido produzidas com uma excelente performance. Por outro lado, técnicas que não utilizam referências ainda apresentam limitações quando múltiplas distorções estão presentes. Além disso, as técnicas sem referência para imagens mais eficientes ainda apresentam modelos computacionalmente custosos, o que limita a utilização desses métodos em várias aplicações multimídia. No caso de vídeos, o atual estado da arte ainda possui performance na predição dos MOS pior do que os métodos de imagens. Quando consideramos a acurácia da predição, os métodos objetivos para vídeos possuem uma correlação entre valores preditos e MOS ainda pequena se comparada com a correlação observada em métodos para imagens. Além disso, a complexidade computacional é ainda mais crítica no caso de vídeos, uma vez que a quantidade de informação processada é muito maior do que aquela presente em imagens. O desenvolvimento de uma técnica objetiva de avaliação de qualidade visual requer resolver três grandes problemas. O primeiro problema é determinar um conjunto de características que sejam relevantes na descrição da qualidade visual. Essas características, geralmente, referem-se às medidas de estímulos físicos, tais como quantificação da nitidez de borda, estatísticas de cenas naturais, estatísticas no domínio de curvlets, filtros de Prewitt, etc. Além disso, múltiplos tipos de características podem ser combinados para gerar um vetor de características que descrevem melhor a qualidade de um dado estímulo. O segundo problema é estabelecer uma estratégia de agrupamento das características de forma que os valores numéricos sejam descritivos dentro de um modelo. Esse agrupamento se refere a uma combinação de medidas através de um subespaço de medidas para representar o estímulo analisado. Finalmente, o terceiro problema é a criação de um modelo que mapeie as características agrupadas de forma que se correlacione com os dados preditos com os subjetivos. Neste trabalho, nós apresentamos uma investigação de métodos de avaliação de qualidade visual baseada na medição de texturas. A pressuposição é que degradações visuais alteram as texturas e as estatísticas dessas texturas em imagens e vídeos. Essas medidas são executadas em termos das estatísticas extraídas do operador de padrões binários locais (LBP) e suas extensões. Este operador foi escolhido porque ele unifica outros modelos de análise de texturas mais tradicionais, tais como o espectro de textura, o nível de cinza de comprimento (GLRLM) e as matrizes de co-ocorrência de níveis de cinza (GLCM). O operador LBP, sendo um algoritmo simples e que favorece implementações rápidas, possui propriedades muito úteis para sistemas de processamento em tempo real de imagens e vídeos. Devido às vantagens supracitadas, nós analisamos o operador LBP e algumas das suas extensões no estado da arte com o objetivo de investigar sua adequabilidade para o problema de avaliação de qualidade de imagens. Para isso, neste trabalho nós apresentamos uma extensa revisão do estado da arte dos operadores. Entre os operadores no estado da arte, podemos mencionar os padrões ternários locais (LTP), a quantização de fase local (LPQ), as estatísticas binarizadas de características de imagem (BSIF), os padrões locais binários rotacionados (RLBP), os padrões binários locais completos (CLBP), os padrões de configuração locais (LCP), entre outros. Ademais, nós também propomos novas extensões que melhoram a predição de qualidade. Entre as extensões propostas para a medida de características de qualidade, estão os padrões binários locais de múltipla escala (MLBP), os padrões ternários locais de múltipla escala (MLTP), os padrões de variância local (LVP), os padrões de planos ortogonais de cores (OCPP), os padrões binários locais salientes (SLBP) e os padrões binários locais salientes de múltipla escala (MSLBP). Para testar a adequabilidade dos operadores de texturas supracitados, propomos um arcabouço para utilizar esses operadores na produção de novas métricas de qualidade de imagens. Dessa forma, muitas métricas sem referência podem ser geradas a partir da estratégia proposta. Utilizando as métricas geradas a partir do arcabouço proposto, uma extensa análise comparativa é apresentada neste trabalho. Essa análise foi feita com três das mais populares bases de dados de qualidade imagens disponíveis, sendo elas a LIVE, CSIQ e TID 2013. Os resultados gerados a partir dos testes nessas bases demonstram que os operadores no estado da arte mais adequados para mensurar a qualidade de imagens são o BSIF, o LPQ e o CLBP. Todavia, os resultados também indicaram que os operadores propostos atingiram resultados ainda mais promissores, com as abordagens baseadas em múltiplas escalas apresentando os melhores desempenhos entre todas variações testadas. Inspirado nos resultados experimentais das métricas de imagens geradas, nós escolhemos um operador de textura conveniente para implementar uma métrica de avaliação de qualidade de vídeos. Além de incorporar informações de textura, nós também incorporamos informações de atividade espacial e informação temporal. Os resultados experimentais obtidos indicam que a métrica proposta tem uma performance consideravelmente superior quando testada em diversas bases de dados de vídeo de referência e supera os atuais modelos de qualidade vídeo.
In the last decade, many visual quality models have been proposed. However, there are some open questions involving the assessment of image and video quality. In the case of images, most of the proposed methods are very complex and require a reference content to estimate the quality, limiting their use in several multimedia application. For videos, the current state-of-the-art methods still perform worse than images in terms of prediction accuracy. In this work, we present an investigation of visual quality assessment methods based on texture measurements. The premise is that visual impairments alter image and video textures and their statistics. These measurements are performed regarding the statistics of the local binary pattern (LBP) operator and its extensions. We chosen LBP because it unifies traditional texture analysis models. In addition, LBP is a simple but effective algorithm that performs only fundamental operations, which favors fast and simple implementations, which is very useful for real-time image and video processing systems. Because of the abovementioned advantages, we analyzed the LBP operator and some of its state-of-the-art extensions addressing the problem of assessing image quality. Furthermore, we also propose new quality-aware LBP extensions to improve the prediction of quality. Then, we propose a framework for using these operators in order to produce new image quality metrics. Therefore, many no-reference image quality metrics can be generated from the proposed strategy. Inspired by experimental results of generated no-reference image quality metrics, we chosen a convenient texture operator to implement a full-reference video quality metric. In addition to the texture information, we also incorporate features including spatial activity, and temporal information. Experimental results indicated that our metric presents a superior performance when tested on several benchmark video quality databases, outperforming current state-of-the-art full-reference video quality metrics.

Ce document presente une etude concernant l'automatisation de l'inspection des tissus realisee actuellement par un operateur humain dans le cadre du visitage. Le travail effectue concerne l'amelioration d'une methode de detection existante, basee sur la mise en evidence de la rupture de periodicite du tissu lors de l'apparition d'un defaut. Le chapitre i presente le principe du controle de qualite dans l'industrie textile, la description d'un systeme automatique de detection de defauts et un bref etat de l'art des systemes commercialises et a l'etude. Le chapitre ii developpe la notion de modele simplifie du tissu, et detaille les differentes etapes de la methode de detection (filtrage, decoupage de l'image en blocs et analyse geometriques). Le chapitre iii presente le systeme et le logiciel developpe, ainsi que les resultats experimentaux obtenus. Dans la conclusion, un bilan sur les resultats de la detection est expose et des perspectives pour une continuation de l'etude sont enoncees

Les unites de production sont actuellement soumises a de fortes contraintes de disponibilite, de productivite, de qualite et de flexibilite. Les problemes a resoudre sont relatifs a la surveillance, au controle qualite et a la maintenabilite. Il s'agit de surveiller et garder operationnels les entites du procede de fabrication, de les synchroniser, de les coordonner et d'integrer les ressources humaines et materielles, dans une approche de gestion de la qualite. Dans ce travail de these, nous nous interessons a la description fonctionnelle des principales activites d'une unite de filature textile dans le but de mettre en place une forme de surveillance preventive conditionnelle previsionnelle indirecte (spcpi), permettant d'ameliorer son niveau de surete de fonctionnement (fiabilite, disponibilite, maintenabilite, etc. ). Cette etude necessite des outils de modelisation et d'evaluation. Nous avons opte pour une modelisation modulaire, a base de la methode sadt qui decompose le systeme en activites elementaires permettant de definir les liens existant entre les parametres de qualite du produit et l'etat des entites du procede. Nous avons ainsi montre que la cause d'une derive de la qualite du produit est liee a l'etat defaillant d'une entite ayant entraine une baisse de ses performances. Les quatre processus de spcpi developpes dans ce memoire sont le suivi d'evolution, la detection, le pronostic et le diagnostic. L'originalite de l'approche du suivi d'evolution de la qualite du produit reside dans la mise en place d'une technique d'inference floue appelee la moyenne dynamique des metriques mdm de logique floue
La mdm est comparee a une methode standard comme la methode somme-produit. La fonction detection, basee sur le principe de seuillage permet l'estimation de l'amplitude d'une derive pour le declenchement du processus de pronostic. Une illustration de ce processus est mise en uvre sur la base d'une fonction de prevision basee sur la methode du gradient. Le diagnostic est realise en exploitant les gammes de longueurs d'ondes definis par l'analyse des defauts periodiques. L'ensemble de ce travail a ete concretise par le developpement d'un outil permettant la mise en uvre de cette approche de spcpt. Cet outil est baptise misufit (maquette informatisee de surveillance d'une unite de filature des industries textiles)

Les propriétés sensorielles des matériaux constituent un élément important de la valeur perçue. L’enjeu est de mettre en relation 3 espaces de caractérisation des matériaux : un espace physique décrit par des données mesurables par des instruments, un espace psychophysique décrit par des données mesurables par l’appareil perceptif humain, un espace sémantique qui traduit une perception plus globale du matériau. Des méthodes de l’analyse sensorielle sont utilisées pour collecter des données de perception visuelle, tactile et visio-tactile. En parallèle, la sensation tactile est étudiée plus en détail à l’aide d’instruments de tribologie tactile. Les différents jeux d’échantillons sélectionnés permettent d’explorer les 3 espaces de caractérisation. L’analyse des vibrations induites par le contact entre le doigt et des textures artificielles, périodiques et isotropes, montre que la valeur efficace du signal d’accélération ainsi que le coefficient de frottement sont cohérents avec les résultats des tests de perception tactile. En étudiant des archétypes du bois, il apparaît que les échantillons sont différenciés selon deux critères principaux : la rugosité et l’hétérogénéité. Ce dernier faisant référence à la présence ou non de singularités caractéristiques du bois. Par ailleurs, l’analyse des vibrations induites est cohérente avec les résultats des tests de perception tactile. Enfin, l’étude d’un même ensemble de textures présentées sous forme d’un disque de matière et sous forme d’un objet identifié a permis de montrer que, contrairement aux textures artificielles, les textures naturelles ou identifiables sont perçues de manière similaire dans les deux contextes de présentation
The sensory properties of material provide leverage of perceived value. The challenge is to relate 3 spaces of material characterization: a physical space describe by measurable data using instruments, a psychophysical space describes by measurable data collected with the human perceptive system, and a semantical space which represent a more global perception of the material. Sensory evaluation methods are used to collect data of visual, tactile and visio-tactile perception. In parallel, the tactile sensation is studied more in detail using tribo-tactile instruments. The different sets of samples allow the exploration of the 3 characterization spaces. The analysis of friction induced vibrations when the finger is scanning periodic and isotropic surfaces reveal that the root mean square value of the acceleration spectra as well as the friction coefficient are coherent with the tactile perception test results. The study of wood archetype texture shows that samples discrimination is based on two main criteria: the roughness and the heterogeneousness, the latter referring to the presence or not of characteristic peculiarities of the wood. Besides, the analysis of friction induced vibrations is also coherent with the results of the tactile perception test. Finally, the study of same set of textures presented in the form of piece of material and in the form of an identified object shows that, contrary to the artificial textures, the natural or familiar textures are perceived in a similar way in both contexts of presentation

Industria textil; Lean Manufacturing; producto no conforme; Value Stream Mapping; Single Minute Exchange of Die; Total Quality Management; Just in Time.
Esta investigación aborda la aplicación de la metodología Lean Manufacturing en una empresa textil de la industria peruana. El objetivo es reducir el producto no conforme en la línea de fabricación de pantalones. En primer lugar, se recopiló toda la información sobre el área de producción y la calidad de la empresa en estudio. Con el uso de herramientas de calidad se realiza el diagnóstico de la situación actual de la línea de pantalones identificando los defectos más significativos, sumando un total de 19,43% en 2018. Al consolidar los defectos, se observa que las principales causas se han homogeneizado como un proceso de costura no estandarizado, errores de control de calidad, proceso de corte no estandarizado y mala planificación de la producción. La aplicación de VSM y SMED logrará la correcta estandarización de la producción de pantalones Demin, TQM logrará el adecuado control de gestión de calidad del proceso productivo y JIT para una óptima planificación de la producción.
This research undertakes the application of the Lean Manufacturing methodology in a textile company in the Peruvian industry. The objective is to reduce the non-conforming product in the pants manufacturing line. First, all information on the production area and quality of the company under study was collected. With the use of quality tools the diagnosis of the current situation of the pants line is made identifying the most significant defects, adding a total of 19.43% in 2018. When consolidating the defects, it is observed that the main causes have been homogenized as a non-standardized sewing process, quality control errors, non-standardized cutting process and poor production planning. The application of VSM and SMED will achieve the correct standardization of Demin pants production, TQM will achieve the appropriate quality management control of the production process and JIT for optimal production planning.
Trabajo de investigación