Academic literature on the topic 'Sloping beach'
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Journal articles on the topic "Sloping beach"
Hsu, Tai-Wen, Jian-Wu Lai, and Yuan-Jyh Lan. "EXPERIMENTAL AND NUMERICAL STUDIES ON WAVE PROPAGATION OVER COARSE GRAINED SLOPING BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 25, 2011): 26. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.26.
Full textConstantin, Adrian. "Edge waves along a sloping beach." Journal of Physics A: Mathematical and General 34, no. 45 (November 6, 2001): 9723–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/0305-4470/34/45/311.
Full textEVANS, D. V. "EDGE WAVES OVER A SLOPING BEACH." Quarterly Journal of Mechanics and Applied Mathematics 42, no. 1 (1989): 131–42. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/qjmam/42.1.131.
Full textRaubenheimer, B., R. T. Guza, Steve Elgar, and N. Kobayashi. "Swash on a gently sloping beach." Journal of Geophysical Research 100, no. C5 (1995): 8751. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/95jc00232.
Full textTon, Bui An. "Water waves over a sloping beach." Journal of Mathematical Analysis and Applications 122, no. 2 (March 1987): 555–81. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0022-247x(87)90284-8.
Full textIzumiya, Takashi, and Masahiko Isobe. "BREAKING CRITERION ON NON-UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 25. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.25.
Full textBillson, Oliver, Paul Russell, and Mark Davidson. "Storm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, no. 5 (May 11, 2019): 139. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7050139.
Full textIFUKU, MAKOTO. "Propagation of long wave on sloping beach." PROCEEDINGS OF COASTAL ENGINEERING, JSCE 36 (1989): 99–103. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/proce1989.36.99.
Full textMiles, John. "Edge waves on a gently sloping beach." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 199 (February 1989): 125–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112089000315.
Full textMiles, John. "Wave reflection from a gently sloping beach." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 214, no. -1 (May 1990): 59. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112090000040.
Full textDissertations / Theses on the topic "Sloping beach"
Baryla, Andrew John. "Laboratory measurements of wave-induced near-bed velocity over a sloping natural sand beach." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1999. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk2/ftp01/MQ35051.pdf.
Full textTeo, Hhih-Ting, and h. teo@griffith edu au. "Tidal Dynamics in Coastal Aquifers." Griffith University. School of Engineering, 2003. http://www4.gu.edu.au:8080/adt-root/public/adt-QGU20030729.155028.
Full textZikmunda, Václav. "Alzheimer centrum." Master's thesis, Vysoké učení technické v Brně. Fakulta stavební, 2019. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-392035.
Full textWang, Yunli. "Etude expérimentale et numérique des oscillations hydrodynamiques en milieux poreux partiellement saturés." Thesis, Toulouse, INPT, 2010. http://www.theses.fr/2010INPT0127/document.
Full textThis thesis aims at investigating experimentally, analytically and numerically, the consequences of hydrodynamic variations and oscillations with high temporal variability in partially saturated porous media. The problems investigated in this work involve “free surfaces” both outside and inside the porous media, the free surface being defined as the “atmospheric” water pressure isosurface (Pwater = Patm). The laboratory experiments studied in this work are, respectively: Lateral imbibition in a dry sand box with significant capillary effects; Transmission of oscillations of the free surface through a vertical sand box placed in a small wave canal (IMFT, Toulouse); Dynamics of free surface oscillations and wave propagation in a large wave canal (HYDRALAB, Barcelona), partially covered with sand, with measurements of both open water and groundwater levels, and of sand topography (erosion / deposition). For theoretical studies, we have developed linearized analytical solutions. Here is a sample problem that was treated analytically in this work: The linearized equation of Dupuit-Boussinesq (DB) for transient free surface flow, assuming horizontal flow and instantaneous wetting/drainage of the unsaturated zone: forced oscillations, wave transmission and dissipation through a rectangular sandbox. We also developed a weakly nonlinear solution of the Dupuit-Boussinesq equation to study the sudden imbibition (temporal monitoring of the wetting front). We have studied the different types of transient flow problems related to the experiments cited above by numerical simulation. In particular, we have simulated unsaturated or partially saturated transient flows in vertical cross-section, using a computer code (BIGFLOW 3D) which solves a generalized version of Richards’ equation. Thus, using the Richards / BIGFLOW 3D model, we have studied numerically the experiment of unsaturated imbibition in a dry sand (IMFT sandbox), and then, with the same model, we have also studied the partially saturated wave propagation experiment in the large Barcelona wave canal (HYDRALAB laboratory), focusing on the sloping sandy beach, with coupling between the micro-porous zone (sand) and the “macro-porous” zone (open water). To interpret the results of the latter experiment and compare them to simulations, we use several methods of signal analyzis and signal processing, such as: Fourier analysis, discrete multi-resolution wavelets (Daubechies), auto and cross-correlation functions. These methods are combined with pre-filtering methods to estimate trends and residuals (moving averages; discrete wavelet analyses). This signal analyzis has allowed us to interpret and quantify water propagation phenomena through a sandy beach. To sum up, different modeling approaches, combined with model calibration procedures, were applied to transient nonlinear coupled flow problems. These approaches have allowed us to reproduce globally the water content distributions and water level propagation in the different configurations studied in this work
FU-TUNG, CHANG, and 張富東. "The surface-waves propagating on a sloping beach." Thesis, 1999. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/81714112960837851078.
Full text國立中山大學
海洋環境及工程學系
87
By linearizing the problem of the surface-waves propagating on a gentle sloping beach in two dimension, this paper has developed by a suitable perturbation expansion in the bottom slope to any order and the analytical solution has been derived to third order . Furthermore, the Eulerian form is transformed to the Lagrangian form by making use of a transform function to describe the solution. The Lagrangian form can be computerized by the numerical quadrate procedure with a personal computer program of continence. This program can easily calculate the result for the diverse surface-waves propagating on the any gentle sloping beach. When the momentary serial data of the undulate waves was calculated, it could combine into the dynamic three-dimension graph of full-time evolution by the skills of the multimedia. Finally, performs a practical experiment to inspect the theoretical and numerical result and researches the agreements between the reality and the solution. Comparing the experimental data with the solutions for the different wave steepness of the deep water on the three kinds sloping beach (1/5,1/10,1/20), the wave height proportion value is between 0.892 to 1.177,the wavelength proportion value between 0.953 to 1.163 and the wave steepness proportion value between 0.901 to 1.087. Over 95% the experiment data and solutions, the errors between them are less than 10%. Hereinbefore, These evidences can prove out the theoretical solution and numerical result, which can suffice the reality.
Hu, Chia-Sheng, and 胡嘉昇. "A Laboratory Study of the Sedimentation on a Sloping Beach." Thesis, 1994. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/46445796285755330856.
Full text淡江大學
水資源及環境工程所
82
The study is done with a rectangular section of water tank with the sizes of length、width and height is 30 m、0.8 m and 0.8 m, respectively.We make waves with a piston-type wave maker.Then we use different kinds of slopes、wave heights and wave periods pass through the channel with a sandy bed. During the waves pass by,it will change the bed of the channel.We consider situations among the different wave conditions and slopes to investigate the sedimentation on this sloping sandy beach. Finally,we also discuss the effects of smooth fixed-shape bed and rough fixed-shape bed on the wave run-up.We also compared and discussed the equations,which were taken by some researcher with the results of this study.
HU, QIONG-WEN, and 胡瓊文. "A study of the sedimentation along the sloping sandy beach." Thesis, 1992. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/28589188774430597590.
Full textChen, Mu-Shuang, and 陳木祥. "A Numerical Simulation of Profile Changes on a Sloping Sandy Beach." Thesis, 1995. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/11341386720627103526.
Full text淡江大學
水資源及環境工程所
83
This study is to develope a numerical simulation of the profile changes on sloping sandy beach due to on-offshore sediment transport under continuous wave actions. This research has discussed the topographic variation of beach, changes of sediment volume, and sediment transport rate with respect to the effects of wave characteristics and the beach slope. Wave run-up on sloping beach is simulated by the finite-amplitude shallow-water wave thoery. When the run-up reaches the maximum level, the back-wash is then simulated by the free-falling motion afterward. The concept of mass conservation is also considered. We have considered two forms of seaward boundary conditions, bore form and the small amplitude wave form. The sediment transport quantities are calculated by the Bagnold''s formula, and the local slope changes due to the sediment movement have been taken into consideration. The null point is assumed to be at the grid point next to the seaward boundary seawards. To simulate the continuous incident waves, the superposition method is adopted. Owing to the profile changes, this study considers three flow situations which are hydraulic jump, flow through humpy bed, and no flow condition. The results of back-wash simulated by the free-falling motion are fine. The outcomes of using the small amplitude wave form at the seaward boundary have better agreement compared with the experimental results. The effect of the original beach slope is another important factor to the beach profile changes.
Lai, Jian-Wu, and 賴堅戊. "Experimental and numerical studies on wave propagation over coarse grained sloping beach." Thesis, 2009. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/80677107941479616571.
Full text國立成功大學
水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
97
In this paper, the hydrodynamics and turbulence for wave propagating over coarse grained sloping beach is investigated using both experimental and numerical model. The coarse grained sloping beach was placed over a 1:5 inclined bottom with two layers of spherical balls. Measurements on temporal and spatial variations of physical quantities such as wave profiles, current fields and turbulence were conducted in the wave flume. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) and digital image process (DIP) techniques are employed to detect the flow field and free surface configuration at both inside and outside regions on the sloping bed. Eleven fields of views (FOVs) were integrated to explore the entire evolutions for waves propagating from the surf zone to the swash zone. In addition, a high resolution Charge Coupled Device (CCD) Camera was used to grasp the images of wave profile. Subsequent digital image processing (DIP) techniques consisting of the image enhancement, coordinate transformation, edge detection and sub-pixel concept for higher resolution were developed to resolve the image and achieve a complete water surface evolutions. In the experimental study, the PIV and DIP techniques provide a possibility for measuring a full scale temporal and spatial variation of the wave profiles and velocity field. Furthermore, the FLOW-3D modeling based on the Navier-Stokes equations was adopted for the simulation of waves traveling over the sloping bed. The porous body model and direct three-dimensional simulations were employed for the calculation of wave profile and velocity field. Numerical results were favorably compared with experiments. The compare results show that the direct three-dimensional simulations method provides accurate predictions in the all wave propagation regions. The wave and velocity profile are resolved more completed as well as in the not only from outer to the inner porous layer, but also in the surf zone and swash zone. Experimental results show that the process of the turbulence characteristics of the maximum turbulent kinetic energy, turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate and turbulence intensity take place in the region between the toe of breaker and surface of porous layer. Flow 3D modeling is implemented to compute wave transformation, flow velocity and turbulent. Their differences were compared for the cases of waves propagating over porous and impermeable bed. The results show that the breaker type is significantly influenced by the porous coarse grained bottom. A plunging breaker becomes a collapsing breaker due to the additional resistance and friction of discrete grains within the porous medium. The front of water bore is stopped at the breaking point and ceases to move forward. Therefore, no significant retuned flow occurs in the surf zone.
Hsiao, Kuan-yu, and 蕭冠宇. "An Application of Nonlinear Evolution Equation for Mild-Slope Equation on Sloping Beach." Thesis, 2008. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/54808876107087829461.
Full text國立成功大學
水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
96
The evolution equation for mild-slope equation model is expended to second order in bottom slope to derive a nonlinear evolution equation of mild-slope equation. The nonlinear evolution equation of mild-slope equation model is used to simulate wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection, wave breaking and energy dissipation. In the condition of bottom slope on 1/10, 1/5 and 1/3, the proposed model can modify wave transformations under the sloping bottom by examining Yang’s (2004) theory and calculate the accurate results. The bottom slope on 1/40 and 1/10, proposed model calculate the accurate results for wave phase with Guza and Bowen’s (1976) theory.
Book chapters on the topic "Sloping beach"
Lehman, R. S., and H. Lewy. "Uniqueness of Water Waves on a Sloping Beach." In Hans Lewy Selecta, 158–83. Boston, MA: Birkhäuser Boston, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4612-2082-4_16.
Full textRoseau, Maurice. "Water waves over a sloping beach in a rotating frame." In Theoretical, Experimental, and Numerical Contributions to the Mechanics of Fluids and Solids, 584–611. Basel: Birkhäuser Basel, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-0348-9229-2_31.
Full textLi, Tiejun, and Pingwen Zhang. "Numerical Simulation of 3D Shallow Water Waves on Sloping Beach." In Recent Progress in Computational and Applied PDES, 259–68. Boston, MA: Springer US, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4615-0113-8_19.
Full textSugimoto, N., and T. Kakutani. "Asymptotic Behavior of a Shallow-Water Soliton Reflected at a Sloping Beach." In Nonlinear Water Waves, 77–84. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1988. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_8.
Full textRodin, Artem, Ira Didenkulova, and Efim Pelinovsky. "Numerical Study for Run-Up of Breaking Waves of Different Polarities on a Sloping Beach." In Extreme Ocean Waves, 155–72. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-21575-4_9.
Full textPorsch, M. R. M. H., N. Kinalski, R. Goergen, A. Fiegenbaum, L. A. Rasia, and A. C. Valdiero. "Mathematical Modeling and Prototype Development of a Pneumatically-Actuated Bench for Sloping Terrain Simulation." In Multibody Mechatronic Systems, 357–66. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-67567-1_34.
Full textAdam, John A. "Scattering of Surface Gravity Waves by Islands, Reefs, and Barriers." In Rays, Waves, and Scattering. Princeton University Press, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.23943/princeton/9780691148373.003.0017.
Full textKânoğlu, Utku. "NONLINEAR EVOLUTION OF LONG WAVES OVER A SLOPING BEACH." In Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 237–41. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2008. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812790910_0008.
Full textKawarada, H., and H. Suito. "Numerical simulation of spilled oil drifted on the sloping beach." In Computational Fluid and Solid Mechanics, 876–78. Elsevier, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-008043944-0/50792-7.
Full textSEO, S. N., and P. L. F. LIU. "NUMERICAL SOLUTION OF LANDSLIDE TSUNAMI PROPAGATION OVER A UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH." In Asian And Pacific Coasts 2011, 1567–74. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2011. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789814366489_0188.
Full textConference papers on the topic "Sloping beach"
Erwina, N., and S. R. Pudjaprasetya. "Reflection wave on sloping beach." In 4TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON MATHEMATICS AND NATURAL SCIENCES (ICMNS 2012): Science for Health, Food and Sustainable Energy. AIP Publishing LLC, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.4868841.
Full textIzumiya, Takashi, and Masahiko Isobe. "Breaking Criterion on Non-Uniformly Sloping Beach." In 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1987. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872626003.025.
Full textYamamoto, Yoshimichi, Katsutoshi Tanimoto, and Karunarathna G. Harshinie. "Run-up of Irregular Waves on Gently Sloping Beach." In 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784400890.052.
Full textMemos, Constantine D. "Experimental Results of Wave Transformation Across a Sloping Beach." In 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784400890.171.
Full textYeh, Harry H., and A. Ghazali. "Nearshore Behavior of Bore on a Uniformly Sloping Beach." In 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1987. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872626003.066.
Full textWeir, Felicia M., Tom E. Baldock, and Michael G. Hughes. "Berm Development and Lagoon Closure on a Gently Sloping Beach." In Fifth International Conference on Coastal Dynamics. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40855(214)12.
Full textCho, Yong-Sik, Jong-In Lee, and Jong-Kyu Lee. "Bragg Reflection of Shallow-Water Waves on a Sloping Beach." In 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784402429.075.
Full textSammarco, Paolo, Emiliano Renzi, and Matthieu Lecouvez. "Landslide Tsunamis Propagating Along a Semi-Plane Beach." In ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2009-79789.
Full textLubin, Pierre, Hubert Branger, and Olivier Kimmoun. "LARGE EDDY SIMULATION OF REGULAR WAVES BREAKING OVER A SLOPING BEACH." In Proceedings of the 30th International Conference. World Scientific Publishing Company, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812709554_0021.
Full textNakajima, Mitsuhiro, Masatoshi Yuhi, Majime Mase, and Hajime Ishida. "Improved Boussinesq Model and its Application to Wave Transformations over Artificial Reef on Sloping Beach." In Coastal Structures 2003. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40733(147)69.
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