Academic literature on the topic 'Qualité textile'
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Journal articles on the topic "Qualité textile":
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Lewis, Erin. "Between yarns and electrons: A method for designing electromagnetic expressions in woven smart textiles." Artifact 9, no. 1 (December 1, 2022): 23.1–23.25. http://dx.doi.org/10.1386/art_00023_1.
Abstract:
The design of woven smart textiles presents a discrepancy of scale where the designer works at the level of structural textile design while facets of the material express at scales beyond one’s senses. Without appropriate methods to address these unknown (or hidden) material dimensions, certain expressional domains of the textile are closed off from textile design possibilities. The aim of the research has been to narrow the gap that presents when one designs simultaneously at the scale of textile structure and electron flow in yarns. It does this by detailing a method for sensing, visualizing, and discussing expressions of electromagnetism in woven smart textiles. Based on experimental research, a method of textile surface scanning is proposed to produce a visualization of the textile’s electromagnetic field. The woven textile samples observed through this method reveal an unknown textural quality that exists within the electron flow – an electromagnetic texture, which emerges at the intersection of woven design and electromagnetic domain variables. The research further contributes to the definition of specific design variables such as: field strength and diffusion expanding the practice of woven smart textile design to the electromagnetic domain.
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Seninde, Denis Richard, Edgar Chambers IV, Delores H. Chambers, and Edgar Chambers V. "Development of a Consumer-Based Quality Scale for Artisan Textiles: A Study with Scarves/Shawls." Textiles 1, no. 3 (October 27, 2021): 483–503. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/textiles1030025.
Abstract:
Modern textile consumers are increasingly becoming more watchful of the quality of the textiles that they purchase. This has increased the need for textile producers, especially artisan textile makers (e.g., knitters, tailors, dressmakers, seamstresses, and quilters), to improve the quality of their textile products. Information on several analytical tools that are commonly used for assessing the quality of textiles is abundant, but consumer-based tools for evaluating the quality of textiles remain limited. A consumer-based artisan textile-quality scale was developed using data collected from two focus groups (Phase 1) and a consumer quantitative study, n = 196 (Phase 2). Ten scarves and shawls were evaluated in the quantitative study and analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to determine the differences between the mean textile ratings for all the statements. Coefficient alpha (final raw alpha = 0.87) was also used to assess if the statements were consistent in the way they measured the quality of the textiles. Pearson correlation tests were used to validate the six-statement quality scale that included statements such as overall attention to detail, the fabric is durable, and stitching is even and consistent. Artisan textile makers in the USA can use this scale to better meet the functional needs of their customers. Additionally, the process that was employed in the development of the six-statement quality scale can be used by researchers in other countries to understand better the key quality characteristics of artisan as well other textile products.
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Zhao, Xueqing, Xin Shi, Kaixuan Liu, and Yongmei Deng. "An intelligent detection and assessment method based on textile fabric image feature." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 31, no. 3 (June 3, 2019): 390–402. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-01-2018-0005.
Abstract:
PurposeThe quality of produced textile fibers plays a very important role in the textile industry, and detection and assessment schemes are the key problems. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to propose a relatively simple and effective technique to detect and assess the quality of produced textile fibers.Design/methodology/approachIn order to achieve automatic visual inspection of fabric defects, first, images of the textile fabric are pre-processed by using Block-Matching and 3-D (BM3D) filtering. And then, features of textile fibers image are respectively extracted, including color, texture and frequency spectrum features. The color features are extracted by using hue–saturation–intensity model, which is more consistent with the human vision perception model; texture features are extracted by using scale-invariant feature transform scheme, which is a quite good method to detect and describe the local image features, and the obtained features are robust to local geometric distortion; frequency spectrum features of textiles are less sensitive to noise and intensity variations than spatial features. Finally, for evaluating the quality of the fabric in real time, two quantitatively metric parameters, peak signal-to-noise ratio and structural similarity, are used to objectively assess the quality of textile fabric image.FindingsCompared to the quality between production and pre-processing of textile fiber images, the BM3D filtering method is a very efficient technology to improve the quality of textile fiber images. Compared to the different features of textile fibers, like color, texture and frequency spectrum, the proposed detection and assessment method based on textile fabric image feature can easily detect and assess the quality of textiles. Moreover, the objective metrics can further improve the intelligence and performance of detection and assessment schemes, and it is very simple to detect and assess the quality of textiles in the textile industry.Originality/valueAn intelligent detection and assessment method based on textile fabric image feature is proposed, which can efficiently detect and assess the quality of textiles, thereby improving the efficiency of textile production lines.
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Sun, Yu Chai, Zhong Hao Cheng, and Yan Mei Zhang. "Analysis on Tensile Properties of Stainless-Steel Fiber and Yarn Quality." Advanced Materials Research 399-401 (November 2011): 176–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.399-401.176.
Abstract:
Stainless steel fiber is a new sort of soft industrial material developed in the past decades. The pure stainless fiber has a number of outstanding properties and is getting wider range of application in textiles which are used as industrial textiles. The tensile properties between stainless steel fiber and traditional textile fibers are quiet different. The property differences between stainless fiber and common textile fiber made the textile processing of stainless fiber difficult. Based on the testing of breaking force, breaking strength and breaking elongation rate, this paper analyzed the tensile characteristic of stainless fiber and discussed its effect on yarn quality.
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Yao, Gui Fen. "Quality Evaluation for Automobile Seat Woven Fabric." Advanced Materials Research 1004-1005 (August 2014): 1427–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.1004-1005.1427.
Abstract:
Industrial textiles is designed with engineering structure textiles. Transportation textiles is one of the main types of industrial textiles. Automobile seat fabric is one of the decorative materials in automobile textile fabrics. The fabric should have soft handle, good air permeability, coordinate color, luxury and generous pattern, wear-resisting, anti-fouling, flame retardant, certain friction factor and antistatic property. In recent years, requirements for automobile textiles of safety, health, environmental protection is more and more high. In order to evaluate the automobile seat woven fabric quality, need to have a simple and effective standard. Quality indexes should be comprehensive. The test method of quality index should be operable. In the existing relevant standards, the test content is not consistent. The existing relevant standards are national standards, textile industry standards and automotive industry standards. Within textile industry standard FZ/T 24005-2010 wool textiles for chair, the technical requirements include safety specification, classification rules, physical quality rating, internal quality rating, appearance quality rating. For flame retardant performance, must meet the following requirements: damaged length ≤200mm, afterflame time ≤15s. Within national standard GB 8410-2006, flammability of automotive interior materials, for flame retardant performance, must meet the following requirements: burning rate ≤100mm/min. Within automotive industry standard QC/T 633-2009 the seats of passenger vehicles, for safety specification, seat fabric must meet the B grade in GB 18401. Based on some effective standard, established suitable standard for automobile seat woven fabric. The standard covers quality evaluation content, performance levels and the methods of test to be used to determine these performance levels.
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BŘEZINOVÁ, HELENA, MIROSLAVA PECHOČIAKOVÁ, and JANA GRABMÜLLEROVÁ. "IDENTIFYING THE MATERIALS IN ARCHAEOLOGICAL TEXTILES." Fibres and Textiles 30, no. 1 (2023): 134–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2023-1-024.
Abstract:
Given their organic origin, textiles rank among the rarest archaeological finds. While the vast majority of these artefacts are preserved as small fragments or mineralised remnants, their detailed textile technology study provides interesting and important information about the use of textile techniques and the quality of processing. The most important information concerns the utilised textile materials, but for degraded textiles, these materials are among the most difficult information to obtain. Image analysis using electron microscopy (SEM) is a significant aide in this pursuit.
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Suciati, F., D. B. Aviantara, Suherman, A. Purnomo, and M. Krauss. "Chemical of concern for raising awareness to Indonesian textile sustainability." IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science 1201, no. 1 (June 1, 2023): 012006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1201/1/012006.
Abstract:
Abstract It is well known that textiles and textile products may contain hazardous compounds. Formally, all imported textiles and textile products must be registered through the Indonesian Custom. Ideally, the Indonesian Custom has the capability to detect chemicals of concern in textiles or textile products entering Indonesian territory. However, this is not the case, particularly for chemicals listed in the Stockholm Convention. The difficulties arise from the lack of identification regarding substances listed in the Stockholm Convention that might be present in textiles, textile products, and finished products. The Indonesian Government has initiated programs to assess the presence of persistent organic pollutants (POPs) in Indonesian territory. Results of the assessment were elaborated in the National Implementation Plan Document on POPs, which was updated recently. Not all substances listed in the Stockholm Convention can be described in depth. Some POPs such as short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs) and polychlorinated naphthalenes have not been included in Indonesian regulation, particularly in Indonesian Customs Tariff Book, making it extremely difficult to assess them. Nevertheless, a preliminary assessment of polybrominated diphenyl ethers and SCCPs has been carried out. Using the Tier 1 approach, it was revealed that 2,194 tonnes of SCCPs was imported from India to Indonesia, which was listed under HS code 38249090 that covered CP52 (containing 50–54% chlorinated paraffins). Furthermore, another prominent issue for chemicals of concern (CoC) in textiles was the use of lead-containing dyes, nonylphenols, and nonylphenol ethoxylates. The latter two compounds are known to be used in detergents and surfactants during textile manufacturing processes. At present, nonylphenols and nonylphenol ethoxylates are not listed in Indonesian laws for regulated chemicals in textiles and textile products, as well as in the wastewater quality standard for the textile industry. Therefore, to avoid circular economy obstacles of used textiles and textile products and support sustainable Indonesian textiles, a systematic inventory of CoC in textiles is very important.
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Renne, Elisha P. "United Nigerian Textiles Limited and Chinese–Nigerian textile-manufacturing collaboration in Kaduna." Africa 89, no. 4 (November 2019): 696–717. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s000197201900086x.
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AbstractIn 1964, the newly established Hong Kong-based Cha Group partnered with the Northern Nigerian Regional Development Corporation to open the United Nigerian Textiles Limited (UNTL) mill in Kaduna – the largest textile mill in Northern Nigeria. The Cha Group later expanded, building textile mills in other parts of the country. Both Chinese and Nigerian managers and workers were involved in UNTL mills, which by 1980 provided printed cotton textiles for the Nigerian market and for other markets in West Africa. Yet this Chinese–Nigeria collaboration could not overcome factors external to the textile-manufacturing industry. Declining infrastructure, erratic electricity, frequent changes in political leadership at the federal level, and the smuggling of less-costly imported textiles (often from China) undermined local textile manufacturing, while inflationary pressures associated with the national oil industry undermined agricultural production, exacerbating the difficulties of obtaining raw Nigerian cotton. In 2007, the UNTL mill in Kaduna closed, although it resumed production in December 2010, assisted by the 100 billion naira Cotton, Textile and Garment Development Fund. Cha Group officials also used their knowledge of the Nigerian textile market as the basis for the marketing of branded, high-quality manufactured textiles, known as Da Viva®, at company-franchised shops in major Nigerian cities. The Cha Group took advantage of digital innovation, both in the printing of these popular textiles and also by advertising them on an attractive website. This article considers the ways in which the United Nigerian Textiles Plc company has maintained production of grey cloth and printed textiles at its mills in Kaduna and Ikorodu-Lagos, along with the marketing of Da Viva® cotton prints, which suggests the continuing, if contradictory, possibilities for this Nigerian–Chinese textile-manufacturing collaboration.
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Shamsiddinovich, Muminov Najmiddin, Alimova Zarina Muzaffarovna, and Vasiev Xayrulla Ulugbekovich. "Research On Cotton Fibre For The Production Of Quality Textile Products." American Journal of Agriculture and Biomedical Engineering 03, no. 06 (June 18, 2021): 30–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.37547/tajabe/volume03issue06-04.
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The article presents the theoretical foundations of cotton and cotton fibre as the main strategic raw material for the production of quality textiles. It also highlights a brief history of the origin, properties, cultivation, collection and use of cotton. Information about the current state of the world market for the production and use of cotton. It will be argued that quality assurance is a complex problem that requires a lot of effort and responsibility on the part of all participants in the production of textile products. In addition, the methods and results of the study of quality indicators of cotton fibre - as the main raw material for textiles are presented.
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TOGOLA, Mamadou, Awa S. DOUMBIA, Mouctar BABA, El hadj M. KASSAMBARA, Daouda dit Odiouma KONATE, Fousseny V. CISSOUMA, Amadou Aboubacar MAIGA, and Ibrahima DIAWARA. "Etude Comparative Des Produits Issus De La Transformation En Filature Des Fibres De Trois Nouvelles Variétés De Cotonnier." International Journal of Progressive Sciences and Technologies 34, no. 2 (October 21, 2022): 314. http://dx.doi.org/10.52155/ijpsat.v34.2.4632.
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Résumé - Au Mali, comme ailleurs en Afrique, la sélection variétale est à la base du succès de la culture cotonnière. Le coton du Mali est presqu’entièrement exporté ; les fibres issues des variétés cultivées doivent répondre aux exigences du marché en termes de caractéristiques technologiques des fibres, facteurs clés du fonctionnement de la filature. Cette étude comparative a été réalisée sur trois nouvelles variétés de cotonniers A, B et C, issues d’un point d'expérimentation. L'objectif de l'étude est d’identifier les variétés ayant les meilleures performances variétales et industrielles pour la vulgarisation en production commerciale par les sociétés cotonnières. 1 échantillon représentatif de 100g de coton fibre, 20 échantillons de 5 m de rubans de carde, d’étirage et de 10 m de mèches, 30 échantillons de 100 m de fil et 40 échantillons de 500 mm de fil ont été respectivement prélevés par balle de chaque variété et à différentes étapes du processus de transformation par variété. Ces échantillons ont été testés sur des appareils de mesure dans les conditions requises au laboratoire de métrologie textile du CERFITEX, Ségou - Mali.L’analyse de variance (ANOVA) des données relatives aux fibres, rubans, mèches et fils et la comparaison de leurs principales caractéristiques de qualité à celle de la production mondiale avec l’application des USTER STATISTICS 2018 ont montré que les variétés de cotonnier A et B sont nettement meilleures que celle de C. Les performances variétales et industrielles de A et B, meilleures que celles de C sont recommandées à la vulgarisation Mots clés : Coton, caractéristiques technologiques, qualité, fibres, fils. [Comparative Study Of The Products Resulting From The Transformation Into Spinning Of The Fibers Of Three New Varieties Of Cotton]Abstract - In Mali, as elsewhere in Africa, varietal selection is the basis of the success of cotton growing. Cotton from Mali is almost entirely exported; fibers from cultivated varieties must meet market requirements in terms of the technological characteristics of fibers, key factors in the operation of the spinning mill. This comparative study was carried out on three new varieties of cotton A, B and C, from an experimental point. The objective of the study is to identify the varieties with the best varietal and industrial performance for popularization in commercial production by cotton companies. 1 representative sample of 100g of cotton fiber, 20 samples of 5m of carding and drawing slivers and 10m of rovings, 30 samples of 100m of yarn and 40 samples of 500mm of yarn were respectively taken per bale of each variety and at different stages of the transformation process by variety. These samples were tested on measuring devices under the required conditions at the CERFITEX textile metrology laboratory, Ségou - Mali.The analysis of variance (ANOVA) of fiber, sliver, roving and yarn data and the comparison of their main quality characteristics to that of world production with the application of USTER STATISTICS 2018 showed that cotton varieties A and B are clearly better than those of C. The varietal and industrial performances of A and B, better than that of C are recommended for popularisation Keywords : Cotton, technological characteristics, quality, fibres, yarns.
Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Qualité textile":
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Guermonprez, Philippe. "Inspection automatique des matériaux plans texturés." Valenciennes, 1994. https://ged.uphf.fr/nuxeo/site/esupversions/e4329f80-b368-4f43-a639-0f80c3bb838d.
Abstract:
Qualité et flexibilité sont les deux atouts de l'industrie textile des pays industrialisés pour faire face à la concurrence. Pour jouer son rôle de référence, le contrôle qualité doit être automatisé. Insuffisantes, les machines actuelles doivent être améliorées tant au niveau des méthodes que des matériels: c'est ce qui a été fait dans le cadre d'un programme BRITE. Les travaux ont porté sur les méthodes et particulièrement sur l'extraction des défauts de leur contexte texture. La méthode proposée s'appuie sur un principe connu, la transformée de Fourier et débouche sur un filtrage nouveau permettant une détection de parties de défaut, qu'il faut donc compléter par une procédure spécifique de chainage intra et intercamera. Étendue aux tissus tissés teints, la méthode offre de nouvelles possibilités en matière de segmentation d'image colorée. La réalisation d'un prototype correspondant de machine d'inspection a permis de constater (pour des tissus monochromes) la qualité des résultats, à un type de défaut près et de garantir la faisabilité industrielle de cette machine. Pour les tisses teints, les tests sont probants mais demandent une validation industrielle.
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Nabli, Lotfi. "Surveillance préventive conditionnelle prévisionnelle indirecte d'une unité de filature textile : approche par la qualité." Lille 1, 2000. https://pepite-depot.univ-lille.fr/RESTREINT/Th_Num/2000/50376-2000-158.pdf.
Abstract:
Les unites de production sont actuellement soumises a de fortes contraintes de disponibilite, de productivite, de qualite et de flexibilite. Les problemes a resoudre sont relatifs a la surveillance, au controle qualite et a la maintenabilite. Il s'agit de surveiller et garder operationnels les entites du procede de fabrication, de les synchroniser, de les coordonner et d'integrer les ressources humaines et materielles, dans une approche de gestion de la qualite. Dans ce travail de these, nous nous interessons a la description fonctionnelle des principales activites d'une unite de filature textile dans le but de mettre en place une forme de surveillance preventive conditionnelle previsionnelle indirecte (spcpi), permettant d'ameliorer son niveau de surete de fonctionnement (fiabilite, disponibilite, maintenabilite, etc. ). Cette etude necessite des outils de modelisation et d'evaluation. Nous avons opte pour une modelisation modulaire, a base de la methode sadt qui decompose le systeme en activites elementaires permettant de definir les liens existant entre les parametres de qualite du produit et l'etat des entites du procede. Nous avons ainsi montre que la cause d'une derive de la qualite du produit est liee a l'etat defaillant d'une entite ayant entraine une baisse de ses performances. Les quatre processus de spcpi developpes dans ce memoire sont le suivi d'evolution, la detection, le pronostic et le diagnostic. L'originalite de l'approche du suivi d'evolution de la qualite du produit reside dans la mise en place d'une technique d'inference floue appelee la moyenne dynamique des metriques mdm de logique floueLa mdm est comparee a une methode standard comme la methode somme-produit. La fonction detection, basee sur le principe de seuillage permet l'estimation de l'amplitude d'une derive pour le declenchement du processus de pronostic. Une illustration de ce processus est mise en uvre sur la base d'une fonction de prevision basee sur la methode du gradient. Le diagnostic est realise en exploitant les gammes de longueurs d'ondes definis par l'analyse des defauts periodiques. L'ensemble de ce travail a ete concretise par le developpement d'un outil permettant la mise en uvre de cette approche de spcpt. Cet outil est baptise misufit (maquette informatisee de surveillance d'une unite de filature des industries textiles)
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Thomas, Thierry. "Contribution à l'inspection automatique dans l'industrie textile." Toulouse, INPT, 1994. http://www.theses.fr/1994INPT087H.
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Ce document presente une etude concernant l'automatisation de l'inspection des tissus realisee actuellement par un operateur humain dans le cadre du visitage. Le travail effectue concerne l'amelioration d'une methode de detection existante, basee sur la mise en evidence de la rupture de periodicite du tissu lors de l'apparition d'un defaut. Le chapitre i presente le principe du controle de qualite dans l'industrie textile, la description d'un systeme automatique de detection de defauts et un bref etat de l'art des systemes commercialises et a l'etude. Le chapitre ii developpe la notion de modele simplifie du tissu, et detaille les differentes etapes de la methode de detection (filtrage, decoupage de l'image en blocs et analyse geometriques). Le chapitre iii presente le systeme et le logiciel developpe, ainsi que les resultats experimentaux obtenus. Dans la conclusion, un bilan sur les resultats de la detection est expose et des perspectives pour une continuation de l'etude sont enoncees
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Martin, Marguerite. "Les marchés de l'indigo en France : flux, acteurs, produits (XVIIè - XVIIIè siècles)." Thesis, Paris 1, 2016. http://www.theses.fr/2016PA01H053.
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Centrée sur l'espace constitué par le royaume de France et ses colonies, cette thèse met en évidence les structures et les dynamiques du marché de l'indigo, entre le milieu du XVIIe et la fin du XVIIIe siècle. Colorant exotique principalement employé en teinture, l'indigo fait partie de ces nouveaux produits qui transforment la palette des couleurs à l'époque moderne. Le secteur de la finition des étoffes est alors un secteur fondamental de la production textile. Il est réglementé afin de garantir aux consommateurs la solidité et la beauté des couleurs, mais au cours du XVIIIe siècle, devient aussi le cœur de l'innovation textile afin de répondre aux nouvelles demandes d'une population qui a adopté la « culture des apparences » (Daniel Roche). La France est au cœur du marché de l'indigo européen et atlantique en raison de sa position dominante dans la production et redistribution du colorant bleu, Saint-Domingue étant le principal producteur d'indigo pendant tout le XVIIIe siècle. La longue distance et le grand nombre d'intermédiaires entre les utilisateurs et les producteurs, limite les moyens dont disposent les acteurs pour relayer leurs attentes. Le rôle des grands négociants des ports du royaume est essentiel, à l'interface entre production et consommation. La grande hétérogénéité des qualités des indigos mis sur le commerce, l'existence de réputations de qualité associées aux différentes zones de production pour l'Europe, qui recoupent des filières de distribution distinctes par empire, invite à s'interroger sur l'éventuelle segmentation des marchés, en fonction des effets recherchés en teinture et des réseaux de redistributionFrom the middle of the 17th to the end of the 18th century, the French empire had a dominant position in the market for indigo in Europe. From Saint-Domingue, indigo was imported in France and then reexported to the Mediterranean and North European countries. Indigo was a tropical dyestuff that was widely used in the textile industry on cotton, silken and woolen textiles. The dyeing industry was one of the most innovative sectors in the textile industry, closely connected with new inflows of tropical dyestuffs, technical exchanges with Asia and the Americas and the birth of modem chemistry. This dissertation aims at showing how in the long distance trade, producers and users of indigo were able to communicate, considering that indigo was a highly heterogeneous dyestuff
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Schrub, Maximilien. "Méthodologie de prédiction de la durée de vie des vêtements selon la qualité des textiles et le comportement des consommateurs - Contribution à la réduction des impacts environnementaux : Contribution à la réduction des impacts environnementaux." Electronic Thesis or Diss., Centrale Lille Institut, 2022. http://www.theses.fr/2022CLIL0008.
Abstract:
La durée de vie des produits est un facteur important dans l’évaluation des impacts environnementaux. Cependant, la durée de vie des articles textiles est très difficile à évaluer notamment à cause de la variété des usages par les consommateurs (entretien, porté) et de la nature des textiles (fibres et structures textiles).L’objectif de cette thèse est de mettre en place une méthodologie de prédiction de la durée de vie des vêtements en prenant en compte leur qualité, les usages et les sensibilités des consommateurs.Cette méthodologie, construite dans un cadre transdisciplinaire, met en interaction l’étude du vieillissement des vêtements en laboratoire avec l’étude du comportement des consommateurs.Ainsi, nous avons adapté un test de laboratoire pour évaluer le vieillissement de pulls-overs sous l’effet de frottements répétés. Ce protocole a été mis en place sur une série de pulls et validé par une campagne de tests au porter réalisé sur les mêmes vêtements. Les dégradations observées sont des bouloches, qui sont similaires dans les deux cas. Nous avons classé les pulls suivant leurs typologies de comportement à la dégradation avec une méthode de classification dites des K-moyennes. A partir de ces résultats, nous proposons un modèle de prédiction du vieillissement des pulls en fonction de leurs caractéristiques techniques. En définissant un seuil de défaut acceptable par les consommateurs, il est possible d’estimer la durée de vie des vêtements à partir des comportements prédits par ce modèle.Parallèlement, un sondage auprès d’un échantillon de consommateurs a été réalisé. Les résultats ont été exploités et classifiés selon une méthode de classification hiérarchique non-supervisée. Nous avons défini 4 typologies de consommateurs selon leur comportement d’achats, 3 typologies pour leurs rapport à l’environnement, et 3 selon les pratiques d’entretien de leur linge. Cette étude conclue sur une modélisation de l’usage d’un vêtement prenant en compte la diversité des profils de consommateurs et leurs usagesEnfin nous avons évalué l’influence sur les impacts environnementaux des résultats précédents grâce à l’Analyse de Cycle de Vie. En intégrant à des scénarios d’ACV les comportements de vieillissement des vêtements et les comportements d’usages associés aux différentes typologies de consommateurs nous avons montré les potentielles réductions d’impacts environnementaux possibles par l’augmentation de la durée de vie d’un vêtement et le choix de bonnes pratiques d’usageThe life span of products is an important factor in the evaluation of environmental impacts. However, the lifetime of textile articles is very difficult to evaluate, especially because of the variety of uses by consumers (maintenance, wear) and the nature of textiles (fibers and textile structures).The objective of this thesis is to develop a methodology for predicting the life span of garments by taking into account their quality, uses and consumer sensitivities.This methodology, built in a transdisciplinary framework, interacts the study of clothing aging in the laboratory with the study of consumer behavior.Thus, we have adapted a laboratory test to evaluate the aging of pullovers under the effect of repeated rubbing. This protocol was implemented on a series of pullovers and validated by a campaign of wear tests performed on the same garments. The observed degradation is pilling, which is similar in both cases. We have classified the pullovers according to their typologies of degradation behavior with a classification method called K-means. We have classified the pullovers according to their typologies of degradation behavior with a classification method called K-means. From these results, we propose a model to predict the aging of the pullovers according to their technical characteristics. By defining a threshold of defect acceptable by consumers, it is possible to estimate the life span of the clothes from the behaviors predicted by this model.In parallel, a survey of a sample of consumers was conducted. The results were analyzed and classified using an unsupervised hierarchical classification method. We defined 4 typologies of consumers according to their purchasing behavior, 3 typologies for their relationship to the environment, and 3 according to their laundry care practices. This study concludes with a model of the use of a garment taking into account the diversity of consumer profiles and their uses.Finally, we evaluated the influence on the environmental impacts of the previous results thanks to the Life Cycle Assessment. By integrating into LCA scenarios the aging behavior of clothing and the usage behavior associated with different consumer typologies, we have shown the potential reductions in environmental impacts possible by increasing the life span of a garment and choosing good usage practices
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Dhiaf, Mohamed Mahjoub. "Proposition d'un modèle de mesure de l'impact du total quality management sur la performance globale : cas des entreprises tunisiennes de textile-habillement." Phd thesis, Paris, ENSAM, 2007. http://pastel.archives-ouvertes.fr/pastel-00002975.
Abstract:
Si la gestion de l'entreprise industrielle a continuellement subi des mutations philosophiques et technologiques importantes (production en Juste-à-Temps, Total Quality Management, robotique, nouvelles technologies de l'information, etc.), les systèmes d'évaluation de la performance qui sont supposés jouer un rôle d'assistance et d'aide à la décision managériale doivent régulièrement accompagner ces mutations. Dans le présent travail, nous proposons une méthodologie conceptuelle d'évaluation de la performance globale d'une entreprise qui opère sous l'optique du Total Quality Management. Le besoin en modélisation du phénomène de la performance est pour clarifier une relation floue et contradictoire entre la performance et le TQM puisque la littérature managériale n'a pas aboutit à une conclusion ferme sur la nature de cette relation. A ce propos, la littérature nous offre trois situations typiques. La première stipule une relation statistiquement positive entre la performance globale et le TQM. Une deuxième situation avec un effet neutre. Enfin, la troisième situation peut mener des conséquences négatives sur l'entreprise. En effet, un modèle conceptuel liant les pratiques critiques du TQM et la performance globale a été développé. Suite à une méthodologie claire basée sur une étude exploratoire auprès de 102 entreprises opérantes dans le secteur Textile-Habillement nous a permis d'identifier la nature de cette relation. A ce propos, une analyse en composantes principales en premier lieu et une analyse de relations structurelles entre les différentes variables en second lieu ont dévoilée se lien entre le TQM-performance globale.
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Abd, Jelil Radhia. "Modélisation de la relation entre les paramètres du procédé plasma et les caractéristiques de la qualité du matériau textile par apprentissage de données physiques." Thesis, Lille 1, 2010. http://www.theses.fr/2010LIL10017/document.
Abstract:
La technique par plasma atmosphérique semble efficace pour la modification des surfaces de matériaux textiles car le traitement est rapide, peu onéreux et écologiquement propre. En dépit de ces avantages, il est extrêmement difficile de comprendre la relation complexe non-linéaire entre les paramètres du procédé plasma et les propriétés finales des matériaux. L’étude et l’optimisation d’un tel procédé doivent être donc basées sur une exploitation des techniques intelligentes telles que la logique floue et les réseaux de neurones. Dans une première partie, l'impact de traitement par plasma de type Décharge à Barrière Diélectrique (DBD) sous air est étudié sur différents types de tissus en polyester et viscose. Afin de mieux comprendre l’effet de la structure textile sur les résultats du traitement, une sélection des paramètres les plus pertinents a été effectuée en utilisant un critère de sensibilité basé sur la logique floue. Il a été mis en évidence que la puissance électrique, la vitesse de traitement, la matière, la finesse des fibres, la perméabilité à l’air, l’armure et la densité des pics ont une influence sur la mouillabilité et la capillarité des tissus. Dans la dernière partie de cette étude, une approche utilisant les réseaux de neurones a été développée afin de prédire la relation entre les paramètres pertinents sélectionnés et les propriétés hydrophiles des tissus. Des résultats tout à fait satisfaisants ont été obtenus et montrent une bonne capacité de généralisation. En outre, une analyse quantitative par poids des connexions a été menée pour analyser l’importance relative des paramètres d’entrée. Les résultats de cette analyse sont cohérents avec ceux obtenus en utilisant le critère de sensibilité flou. Ceci permet donc de confirmer d’une part l’influence des paramètres sélectionnés, et d’autre part de montrer la fiabilité des réseaux neuronauxAtmospheric plasma treatment seems to be a good way to treat quickly, cheaply and ecologically textile material surfaces. Despite these advantages, it is extremely difficult to understand the complex non-linear relationship between the plasma processing parameters and the final properties of materials. Therefore, the study and optimization of such process must be based on an exploitation of intelligent techniques such as fuzzy logic and neural networks. In a first part, the impact of atmospheric air Dielectric Barrier Discharge (DBD) plasma treatment is studied on different types of polyester and viscose woven fabrics. In order to get a better understanding on how the structure of woven fabrics influence on the results of the plasma treatment, a selection of the most relevant parameters was carried out by using a fuzzy logic based sensitivity variation criterion. This work shows that that the electric power, the treatment speed, the composition, the fibers fineness, the air permeability, the weave construction and the summit density have an influence on the wettability and the capillarity of fabrics. Lastly, a neural network approach was developed to predict the relationship between the selected input parameters and the fabric hydrophilic properties. Very satisfactory results were obtained and show a good capacity of generalization. Moreover, a quantitative analysis based on the weights of connections was conducted to analyze the relative importance of the input parameters. The results of this analysis are coherent with those obtained by using the fuzzy logic based sensitivity variation criterion. Thus, this finding confirms, on the one hand, the influence of the selected parameters and, on the other hand, it shows the efficiency of neural networks
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Jaftha, Desiree Virginia. "South African National Accreditation System accreditation : a case study of a university of technology textile testing laboratory." Thesis, Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11838/1222.
Abstract:
Thesis (MTech (Quality))Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Cape Town, 2008.The South African Government provides support to the clothing and textile industry by making funding available through programs in the Department of Science and Technology, such as the Tshumisano Technology Stations Program. The Technology Stations Program in particular supports a Technology Station in Clothing and Textiles (TSCT) at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT), serving the needs for technology support and skills upgrading of the industry in the Western Cape, and in some instances, nationally. The TSCT testing laboratory provides testing services to small medium and large companies in South Africa at a reduced cost. The laboratory emphasises that customers should have fabrics tested before production commences. In this regard, the company will know the quality of the fabric or garment being purchased or manufactured. The laboratory technicians and assistants undergo a 'Woolworths' certification process on their test methods on an annual basis. The Woolworths certification is customer based. The laboratory is faced on a daily bases with the problem that more and more of their customers request that the facility should seek higher 'accreditation', as opposed to the current 'certification' it currently holds. The TSCT testing laboratory in addition has a responsibility to satisfy all of its customer certification and accreditation needs. Against this background, the management of the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory is now seeking accreditation from the South African National Accreditation System (SANAS) to widen the spectrum of its testing abilities. The primary research objectives of this dissertation are: To determine what the requirements are for SANAS accreditation by the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory. To determine if the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory is subject to a forced intervention for SANAS accreditation. To determine the criteria required for the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory accreditation. To determine the benefits that could be gleaned from this accreditation. To determine the effectiveness of the laboratory system, with regard to the fact that in addition to testing, the laboratory is used for teaching and learning. Descriptive research will serve as the research type, as it will describe an existing phenomena taking place. The research will be theoretical in nature and conducted in terms of both positivistic and phenomenological paradigms. Case study research will serve as research method. Data collection for the proposed research will be conducted using questionnaires. The CPUT Clothing and Textile Technology Department will serve as sampling frame, while the sample of respondents will be drawn on the basis of probability sampling. The sample will include lecturing staff, students, industry testing customers, textile test laboratory technicians, administration and support staff, all of whom are directly involved with the operation or make use of the laboratory facilities.
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Bodnarova, Adriana. "Texture analysis for automatic visual inspection and flaw detection in textiles." Thesis, Queensland University of Technology, 2000.
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Talman, Riikka. "Changeability as a quality in textile design." Licentiate thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2019. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15990.
Abstract:
The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, but – aside from a few exceptions – has been considered to be undesirable by both the industry and consumers. The work presented in this licentiate thesis suggests that, due to change in some form being an inherent property of textiles, it may be viable to look for alternative ways of designing and perceiving textiles that accept change as one of their qualities. The experimental work explores change as a quality in textiles from the perspective of the textile material, and examines irreversible changes in textiles from three different perspectives: form, use, and teaching changeability in the field of textile design. Changes in colour, pattern, texture, and structure were explored by developing knitted and woven textiles using materials with pronounced changeable properties, and exposing these to various stimuli, such as outdoor conditions and use in workshops. The experiments suggest that the combination of material and structure defines how textiles change when exposed to various stimuli. A material’s properties define what the textile reacts to and how, while the structure of the textile influences how it changes through the amount and placement of materials. In addition, time and the handling of a textile shape the exact changes that take place. Designing with changeability as a quality in textiles opens up for alternative possibilities as regards creating expressions, wherein time and change are design variables alongside more traditional qualities, and could encourage a diversity of lifespans and changes over various timescales, better connecting textiles to the properties of their raw materials. This may mean that an alternative method for evaluating quality based on change instead of permanence could be viable, wherein the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles is questioned.
Books on the topic "Qualité textile":
1
Purushothama, B. Work quality management in the textile industry. New Delhi: Woodhead Publishing India PVT Ltd, 2013.
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Diallo, Lamine. Analyse comparée des différentes politiques au Burkina Faso visant à différencier la qualité du coton pour mieux le valoriser sur le marché. Montpellier: CIHEAM, 2008.
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Diallo, Lamine. Analyse comparée des différentes politiques au burkina Faso visant à différencier la qualité du coton pour mieux le valoriser sur le marché. Montpellier: CIHEAM, 2008.
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Shustov, Yuriy, Sergey Kiryuhin, Aleksey Matrohin, and Nadezhda Smirnova. Textile Materials Science and Quality management. ru: INFRA-M Academic Publishing LLC., 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.12737/1079228.
Abstract:
The textbook provides general information about the properties of fibers, threads, fabrics, knitted and non-woven materials. The features of their structure, methods of obtaining, methods of determining quality indicators are given. The issues of quality control and management of textile materials are highlighted.
Meets the requirements of the federal state educational standards of higher education of the latest generation.
For students of textile universities studying in the field of training "Technology and design of textile products".
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Mahall, Karl. Quality Assessment of Textiles. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-55645-6.
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Mahall, Karl. Quality Assessment of Textiles. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1993. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-97536-3.
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Pakistan) International Conference on Value Addition & Innovation in Textiles (1st 2011 Faisalabad. 1st International Conference on Value Addition & Innovation in Textiles, COVITEX, 2011: 14th-15th March, 2011, National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan. Faisalabad: National Textile University, 2011.
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Chowdhary, Usha. Textile analysis: Quality control and innovative users. Deer Park, N.Y: Linus Publications, Inc., 2009.
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Kadolph, Sara J. Quality assurance for textiles and apparel. 2nd ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2007.
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Kadolph, Sara J. Quality assurance for textiles and apparel. 2nd ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2007.
Book chapters on the topic "Qualité textile":
1
Ghosh, Anindya, Bapi Saha, and Prithwiraj Mal. "Statistical Quality Control." In Textile Engineering, 367–410. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/9781003081234-11.
2
Müller, Kai, Andrés Posada-Moreno, Lukas Pelzer, and Thomas Gries. "Objectifying Machine Setup and Parameter Selection in Expert Knowledge Dependent Industries Using Invertible Neural Networks." In Lecture Notes in Mechanical Engineering, 293–300. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-18326-3_29.
Abstract:
AbstractThe textile industry is one of the oldest and largest industries in the world. The fields of application for textile products are diverse. Although the technologies for manufacturing textiles are extensively researched, the industry is still highly dependent on expert knowledge. To date, manual process- and machine adjustments and quality control are the norms rather than the exception. Heat setting is used in the process chain to dissolve or selectively introduce tensions from the weaving or knitting process and to prepare the products for digital printing. The correct setting of the machine depends on a large number of different materials-, processes- & environmental parameters. For each product, the machine has to be set up again by an experienced textile engineer. To ease the training for new workers and shorten the machine setting process, this study aims to use machine learning to facilitate and objectify the setting of the heat-setting process. Machine parameters are generated using an invertible neural network (INN) based on pre-defined target parameters. The results can be used to identify trends in machine settings and respond accordingly. Thus, a reduction of machine setting time could be realized.
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Finnimore, E. "Objective Quality Assessment." In European Textile Research: Competitiveness Through Innovation, 199–213. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-4323-0_18.
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Jamshaid, Hafsa, and Rajesh Mishra. "Textile Testing and Quality Control in Knitting." In Textile Science and Clothing Technology, 157–79. Cham: Springer Nature Switzerland, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-44927-7_7.
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Mahall, Karl. "Other Defects in the Quality of Textiles." In Quality Assessment of Textiles, 179–94. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-55645-6_8.
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Mahall, Karl. "Other Defects in the Quality of Textiles." In Quality Assessment of Textiles, 179–94. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1993. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-97536-3_8.
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Echegaray, Noemí, Marcelo Rosmini, Mirian Pateiro, Rubén Domínguez, Paulo E. S. Munekata, José Manuel Lorenzo, Eva María Santos, and Roberto Bermúdez. "Texture Analysis." In Methods to Assess the Quality of Meat Products, 29–40. New York, NY: Springer US, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-0716-2002-1_3.
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Tesema, Getnet Belay. "Cotton Quality Requirements for Spinning." In Textile Science and Clothing Technology, 241–84. Singapore: Springer Nature Singapore, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-9149-5_10.
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Naeem, Jawad, and Amna Siddique. "Textile and Fashion Industry of Mozambique." In Quality Education and International Partnership for Textile and Fashion, 157–73. Singapore: Springer Nature Singapore, 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-1320-6_8.
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Mahall, Karl. "Fundamentals and Priming." In Quality Assessment of Textiles, 1–17. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-55645-6_1.
Conference papers on the topic "Qualité textile":
1
Teixeira França Alves, Paulo Henrique, Abigail Clarke-Sather, Sam Carlson, and Angela Martini. "Theoretical Method for Characterizing Textile Failure Mechanics in Mechanical Recycling With Carded Drums." In ASME 2023 18th International Manufacturing Science and Engineering Conference. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/msec2023-104361.
Abstract:
Abstract Due to the increasing speed of production, sale, and discard of home and apparel products, recycling of textiles is important for supporting the UN’s Sustainable Development Goal of Responsible Consumption and Production. In 2020, textile production was estimated to be responsible for 35% of primary microplastics released into the environment, 20% of global clean water pollution, and 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. In 2018 the US generated around 17 million tons of textile waste and only 14.7% was recycled. Drum-operated textile shredding, a commonly utilized mechanical textile recycling technique, is not yet fully characterized. Even though there are many shredding machines that perform this process, the parameters that influence high-quality fiber output have not been researched; discovering ways to improve reusable fiber output is still a challenge. This research investigates the theory behind carded (toothed) drum textile shredding including how to improve the process outcome in order to obtain more reusable fiber and fewer textile pieces and dust. The mechanics of the textiles and fibers under tensile and shear stresses from the drums and drum teeth respectively were described to relate the textile material failure behavior to shredding process fiber outputs. Focusing on the interactions of the feeding drums and shredding drum, the drum-textile and tooth-yarn failure mechanics were characterized. By decreasing the teeth size and increasing the relative speed between drums, it is expected to increase the shear failure ratio, thus improving the shredding system. With this, it is expected that manufacturing new and better materials from recycled fibers becomes a possibility.
2
Doersch, Christian, Joerg Muessig, and Dieter H. Mueller. "Modelling of Manufacturing Processes by FEA-Method for the Production of Natural Fiber-Reinforced Plastics." In ASME 2007 International Mechanical Engineering Congress and Exposition. ASMEDC, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/imece2007-41826.
Abstract:
In recent years a growing demand for natural fiber-reinforced plastic components and structures has been observed. One important area of application is transportation, particularly in the automotive industry. Due to market demand, innovative process technologies for fast, cost-effective and quality-driven manufacture of natural fiber-reinforced plastic components is required. This paper will focus on the development of technologies for automised manufacturing of NFRP-components with resin infusion processes. At present NFRP-components are manufactured automatically but without flexibility concerning the deviations of material properties or part geometries. This lack of control in manufacturing results in long cycle times, low process control and high costs. The Bremen Institute for Engineering Design (BIK) is developing and improving machine and process technologies for automised textile handling. The handling system has to meet the requirements of large, limp textile material. The authors have mutually developed methods for the simplified simulation of textiles. The simulation supports the evaluation of textiles and handling devices concerning the ability for better control in manufacturing. To meet these requirements, a simulation of the textile material with the “Finite Element Analysis” method supports the part and process design by reducing developing time and costs. For this purpose, the authors showed a simplified model with a reduced set of material data which is required for the FEA-model.
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Stjepanovic, Zoran, Simona Jevsnik, and Andreja Rudolf. "E-LEARNING MODULE ON VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING OF GARMENTS WITHIN THE E-LEARNING COURSE FOR INNOVATIVE TEXTILE FIELDS." In eLSE 2016. Carol I National Defence University Publishing House, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.12753/2066-026x-16-262.
Abstract:
This contribution presents the functionalities and multimedia contents of the e-learning module on virtual prototyping of garments within the ERASMUS+ project entitled e-Learning Course for Innovative Textile Fields - Advan2Tex. Use of advanced information technologies and systems can assure the textile and garment manufacturing companies competitive advantages, such as high and constant quality of products, productivity, flexibility, and quick response to the requirements of fashion and market. A wide range of new technologies, above all those using fascinating possibilities of computer graphics, together with a new generation of computer based systems, assure the textile companies the ability to react extremely fast to the customer demands offering quality and future-oriented services. This enables greater commercial presence and contributes to company's better marketing position. The universities, research institutions and software producers apply nowadays a whole range of new technologies to create the advanced computer solutions that will in the future support the whole cycle starting from the virtual design of fabric and garments through automated production up to virtual merchandising. Therefore, the students and textile professionals, already working in textile industries, should be given the knowledge needed for successful work with the new technologies, which will contribute to developing the textile information society of the future. This module of the e-learning course for innovative textile field informs the readers and course participants about new emerging technologies, which have a great potential for the textile-related industries: virtual prototyping of garments and 3D scanning. After a short introduction a chapter on recent advances in computer-aided technologies for textile applications starts this module. The most widely used CA* technologies are briefly described together with some new technologies, such as virtual and augmented reality, 3D scanning and 3D printing. CIM concept of the factories of the future is presented. The third chapter deals with the simulation of specific mechanical properties of textiles. Geometrical, physical and hybrid cloth models are presented together with explanation graphics. Virtual reproduction of mechanical behaviour of textile forms uses the mechanical properties, measured by the measuring systems for objective evaluation of textile fabrics and different models for simulation of textiles. Modelling and simulation of virtual humans is presented in the fourth chapter. The chapter starts with 3D scanning describing the special equipment for capturing the human body in both standing and sitting postures. Reconstruction techniques needed for assuring the reliable 3D body models are described. These models can be then used for importing in commercial CAD/PDS systems. The fifth chapter introduces the garment prototyping and virtual fitting technologies. Described are all the attributes required for virtual prototyping of garments. This chapter also informs about the virtual fitting of garments for people with special physical needs - paraplegics. The results of several studies on this important topic are included at the end of the chapter. Each chapter has a list of used literature. The module is concluded by the Summary and multiple choice questions of three levels of difficulty.
4
SCHÄFER, Bastian. "Investigation of the friction behavior of uni- and bidirectional non-crimp fabrics." In Material Forming. Materials Research Forum LLC, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.21741/9781644903131-60.
Abstract:
Abstract. The friction behavior of engineering textiles directly affects the forming quality during composite molding processes. In forming tests of dry engineering textiles large relative slip between plies and the tools is observed. The resulting tangential contact stresses influence the material’s membrane stresses, which in turn impact the fabric’s deformation and potentially lead to forming defects such as gapping or ruptures of the textile. The characterization of friction is commonly conducted via relative motion between a fabric ply and either another fabric ply (ply-ply) or a tool (tool-ply) under controlled transverse pressure. The resulting behavior of a textile reinforcement depends on the mesoscopic structure of its unit cell and the material of its constituents. In this work, the tangential friction behavior at interfaces between ply and tooling and between plies of a unidirectional and a bidirectional non-crimp fabric are investigated in sled pull-over-tests. The behavior is analyzed with respect to the applied normal forces, the relative velocity and the relative fiber orientation. A generally rate-independent behavior is observed. Tool-ply friction is only slightly affected by the applied pressure, while ply-ply friction is strongly influenced by the stitching pattern at the contact interface.
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Kimura, Soichiro, Kensuke Tobitani, and Noriko Nagata. "BTF Prediction Model using Unsupervised Learning." In 8th International Conference on Control, Modeling and Computing (CMC 2022). Academy and Industry Research Collaboration Center (AIRCC), 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.5121/csit.2022.120505.
Abstract:
The impressions evoked by textures are called affective textures, and are considered to be important in evaluating and judging the quality of an object. And, technologies for understanding and controlling sensory textures are needed in product design. In this study, we propose a BTF prediction method using DNN as a first attempt to generate textures based on affective texture recognition. The method uses a series of continuously varying viewpoint angles of a texture image as the input signal. This method enables the generation of texture images with continuously changing angles. We tested the validity of the proposed method by using textile, wood and paper. The results show that the proposed method is effective for predicting diffuse reflection optical properties and irregular and regular patterns.
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Mirschel, Gabriele, Olesya Daikos, Carstenq Steckert, Katja Heymann, and Tom Scherzer. "Characterization of sizes on textiles by in-line NIR chemical imaging." In OCM 2017 - 3rd International Conference on Optical Characterization of Materials. KIT Scientific Publishing, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.58895/ksp/1000063696-15.
Abstract:
In the last years, demands on high quality products increases dramatically, e.g. in textile industry. In order to produce high functional textiles a numerous of chemical agents have to be applied to the fabrics, in several wet chemical treatments, in the production process. One auxiliary agent is the size. Sizes are colorless, water soluble substances which improve the mechanically stiffness of threads during weaving process. Usually, sizes have to be wash out of the fabric before further processing since they may affect the following production steps. Up to now, offline process control methods e.g. extraction of the size are the state of the art of process control in textile industry. It is obvious, that the time consuming and punctual analytical methods are no more seasonable for an optimal process control. Thus, alternative process control methods were on demand. This paper presents a study of the potential of NIR hyperspectral imaging for in-line analysis in textile technology. Application weights and spatial distribution of sizes on polyester fabric are investigated by NIR hyperspectral imaging. In a preliminary study a calibration to the application weight of the size was prepared and a PLS model was established. This PLS model was applied for the quantitative monitoring of the colorless size across the fabrics. Additionally, contaminants on the textile were visualized by NIR chemical imaging. Thus, NIR hyperspectral imaging is presented as a fast, precise and powerful analytical method which also fulfills the requirements of textile industry.
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Seidu, Raphael Kanyire, and Shouxiang Jiang. "Performance Quality of Braided e-Yarns for Pedestrian Interactive Textiles." In E-Textiles 2023. Basel Switzerland: MDPI, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/engproc2023052004.
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Harpa, Rodica. "SOFTWARE PACKAGE FOR TEACHING STUDENTS, ALLOWING THE VIRTUAL OPTIMIZATION IN TEXTILES." In eLSE 2014. Editura Universitatii Nationale de Aparare "Carol I", 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.12753/2066-026x-14-282.
Abstract:
The STATISTICA software package was developed by conducting a national research grant to facilitate the getting of cotton mixtures and their processing in a cotton spinning mill, ensuring effectiveness and efficiency in an important link of the textile supply chain. The objectives underlying the software package have required the accomplishment of two programs entitled STAT_ADT and STAT_ADM. The STAT-ADM is software corresponding to the algorithm developed for the multicriteria decision analysis and has been developed to optimize the technological flow of fiber processing of cotton spinning and the spinning by means of different spinning systems, based on the high performance establishment of 100% cotton mixture recipes. The STAT-ADT is software corresponding to the algorithm developed for the trifactorial variance analysis and was developed to facilitate the analysis of experimental results (i.e. yarns characteristics) depending on the overall quality of various mixtures of fibers in cotton spinning mill. Currently, at the Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management of Iasi, the STATISTICA software package is included in the teaching and research activities as a functional laboratory system. In context, we started from the computer simulation of the fiber mixtures optimization with STAT_ADM, respectively, the computer simulation of the spinning optimization in cotton spinning with STAT_ADT; ultimately, the two software are also used in simulating the optimization of other processes and quality textile products. To work with these programs, users (students, teachers, textile companies partners) require minimal knowledge of computer use and also, minimal knowledge about the practical use of the two complex statistical tools for processing numerical data (multi-criteria decision analysis and analysis of trifactorial variance).
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Harpa, Rodica. "SOFTWARE PACKAGE FOR TEACHING STUDENTS, ALLOWING THE VIRTUAL OPTIMIZATION IN TEXTILES. PART II." In eLSE 2015. Carol I National Defence University Publishing House, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.12753/2066-026x-15-268.
Abstract:
In the first part of this paper, two programs namely STAT_ADM and STAT_ADT, part of STATISTICA software package were presented. The second part of this paper deals with the third program of STATISTICA package, called STAT-MFD. The STAT-MFD (Statistical Analysis with MultiFactorial Design) is software corresponding to the algorithm developed for mixed factorial experiment, qualitative and quantitative ones. Unlike STAT_ADT, that allows the computer simulation of yarn spinning optimization in a cotton mill (depending on the overall quality of fibers from miscellaneous recipes), STAT-MFD came close to the computer simulation of the processing raw materials within the drafting systems on ring spinning machine. In a different approach this time, count two kind of factors, namely qualitative and quantitative ones, that have to be correlated for the final purpose, which is the yarn spinning optimization for minimum unevenness. This program was also included in the teaching and research activities, as a functional laboratory system at the Faculty of Textiles,- Leather and Industrial Management of Iasi. Ultimate goal of introducing this software as a laboratory system was to support students who have to make interdisciplinary connections, and always have to be aware at addressing the factors that could influence the overall quality of drafting process, so the overall quality of the drafting product, reflected mainly by unevenness. Unevenness is a decisive factor in the textile supply chain because, spinning a yarn with good structural uniformity is a basic condition for obtaining best quality in weaving and / or knitting. STAT-MFD was designed with a user-friendly interface similar with the other two programs, so the students can work based on technological knowledge learned in other courses from the Engineering and Design of Textile Products curriculum, and based on minimal knowledge about the practical use of MultiFactorial Design algorithm.
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Rezaei-Arangdad, Shaghayegh, and A. Blanton Godfrey. "Disruptions and Adaptations: Covid-19's Impact on Textile Supply Chain Management." In 22th AUTEX World Textile Conference. Switzerland: Trans Tech Publications Ltd, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/p-lbud8y.
Abstract:
The COVID-19 pandemic significantly impacted the textile industry's supply chain management leading to unprecedented disruptions in global trade and manufacturing operations. This paper presents an overview of the challenges faced by the textile industry during the pandemic and how supply chain management strategies are being restructured to mitigate risks and ensure business continuity. The pandemic highlighted the need for greater visibility and transparency in supply chains as well as the importance of diversification of suppliers and production facilities. Many new challenges in data quality were also exposed. This paper discusses the implications of these changes for the future of the textile industry and new thinking needed in managing supply chains.
Reports on the topic "Qualité textile":
1
Alhasan, Ahmad, Brian Moon, Doug Steele, Hyung Lee, and Abu Sufian. Chip Seal Quality Assurance Using Percent Embedment. Illinois Center for Transportation, December 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.36501/0197-9191/23-029.
Abstract:
This study investigates the use of macrotexture as an indicator of the percent embedment (PE) of aggregate in a chip seal and ultimately, as a quality assurance tool for chip seals. The study included an extensive field- and controlled-testing program from 24 chip seal sections constructed in Illinois. Surface texture measurements were acquired using a high-speed texture profiler and a stationary laser texture device. The analysis showed that stationary texture measurements were more consistent and reliable for estimating PE and characterizing chip seals in the field. Moreover, the ground truth PE values were estimated using an image analysis algorithm implemented on side-view images of cores extracted in the field. The ground truth PE values were estimated using four approaches: the average elevation method, percent embedment of each aggregate method, the peak method, and the aggregate circumference method. The analysis showed that the correlations between the different PE estimation methods are relatively weak, indicating the various methods provide different information and may relate to different characteristics. The general regression models for PE values estimated using the average elevation method and the mean profile depth (MPD) acquired using laser texture scans and the average least dimension (ALD) yielded the highest R2 value of 0.50. The model showed a consistent decreasing trend between PE and MPD estimated using laser texture scans and side-view images. Moreover, the model matched the expected behavior that PE should reach 100% as MPD reaches 0. Finally, four models were recommended correlating PE estimated using the average elevation and each aggregate methods to the MPD (mm) estimated from laser texture scans and ALD (mm) estimated from side-view images.
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Wei, Fulu, Ce Wang, Xiangxi Tian, Shuo Li, and Jie Shan. Investigation of Durability and Performance of High Friction Surface Treatment. Purdue University, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.5703/1288284317281.
Abstract:
The Indiana Department of Transportation (INDOT) completed a total of 25 high friction surface treatment (HFST) projects across the state in 2018. This research study attempted to investigate the durability and performance of HFST in terms of its HFST-pavement system integrity and surface friction performance. Laboratory tests were conducted to determine the physical and mechanical properties of epoxy-bauxite mortar. Field inspections were carried out to identify site conditions and common early HFST distresses. Cyclic loading test and finite element method (FEM) analysis were performed to evaluate the bonding strength between HFST and existing pavement, in particular chip seal with different pretreatments such as vacuum sweeping, shotblasting, and scarification milling. Both surface friction and texture tests were undertaken periodically (generally once every 6 months) to evaluate the surface friction performance of HFST. Crash records over a 5-year period, i.e., 3 years before installation and 2 years after installation, were examined to determine the safety performance of HFST, crash modification factor (CMF) in particular. It was found that HFST epoxy-bauxite mortar has a coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE) significantly higher than those of hot mix asphalt (HMA) mixtures and Portland cement concrete (PCC), and good cracking resistance. The most common early HFST distresses in Indiana are reflective cracking, surface wrinkling, aggregate loss, and delamination. Vacuum sweeping is the optimal method for pretreating existing pavements, chip seal in particular. Chip seal in good condition is structurally capable of providing a sound base for HFST. On two-lane highway curves, HFST is capable of reducing the total vehicle crash by 30%, injury crash by 50%, and wet weather crash by 44%, and providing a CMF of 0.584 in Indiana. Great variability may arise in the results of friction tests on horizontal curves by the use of locked wheel skid tester (LWST) due both to the nature of vehicle dynamics and to the operation of test vehicle. Texture testing, however, is capable of providing continuous texture measurements that can be used to calculate a texture height parameter, i.e., mean profile depth (MPD), not only for evaluating friction performance but also implementing quality control (QC) and quality assurance (QA) plans for HFST.
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Crisosto, Carlos, Susan Lurie, Haya Friedman, Ebenezer Ogundiwin, Cameron Peace, and George Manganaris. Biological Systems Approach to Developing Mealiness-free Peach and Nectarine Fruit. United States Department of Agriculture, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.32747/2007.7592650.bard.
Abstract:
Peach and nectarine production worldwide is increasing; however consumption is flat or declining because of the inconsistent eating quality experienced by consumers. The main factor for this inconsistent quality is mealiness or woolliness, a form of chilling injury that develops following shipping periods in the global fruit market today. Our research groups have devised various postharvest methods to prolong storage life, including controlled atmosphere and delayed storage; however, these treatments only delay mealiness. Mealiness texture results from disruption of the normal ripening process involving disassembly of cell wall material, and creates a soft fruit texture that is dry and grainy instead of juicy and smooth. Solving this problem is a prerequisite for increasing the demand for fresh peach and nectarine. Two approaches were used to reveal genes and their associated biochemical processes that can confer resistance to mealiness or wooliness. At the Volcani Center, Israel, a nectarine cultivar and the peach cultivar (isogenetic materials) from which the nectarine cultivar spontaneously arose, and at the Kearney Agricultural Center of UC Davis, USA, a peach population that segregates for quantitative resistance to mealiness was used for dissecting the genetic components of mealiness development. During our project we have conducted research integrating the information from phenotypic, biochemical and gene expression studies, proposed possible candidate genes and SNPs-QTLs mapping that are involved in reducing peach mealiness susceptibility. Numerous genes related to ethylene biosynthesis and its signal transduction, cell wall structure and metabolism, stress response, different transcription factor families were detected as being differentially accumulated in the cold-treated samples of these sensitive and less sensitive genotypes. The ability to produce ethylene and keep active genes involved in ethylene signaling, GTP-binding protein, EIN-3 binding protein and an ethylene receptor and activation of ethyleneresponsive fruit ripening genes during cold storage provided greater resistance to CI. Interestingly, in the functional category of genes differentially expressed at harvest, less chilling sensitive cultivar had more genes in categories related to antioxidant and heat sock proteins/chaperones that may help fruit to adapt to low temperature stress. The specific objectives of the proposed research were to: characterize the phenotypes and cell wall components of the two resistant systems in response to mealiness- inducing conditions; identify commonalities and specific differences in cell wall proteins and the transcriptome that are associated with low mealiness incidence; integrate the information from phenotypic, biochemical, and gene expression studies to identify candidate genes that are involved in reducing mealiness susceptibility; locate these genes in the Prunus genome; and associate the genes with genomic regions conferring quantitative genetic variation for mealiness resistance. By doing this we will locate genetic markers for mealiness development, essential tools for selection of mealiness resistant peach lines with improved fruit storability and quality. In our research, QTLs have been located in our peach SNPs map, and proposed candidate genes obtained from the integrated result of phenotypic, biochemical and gene expression analysis are being identified in our QTLs as an approach searching for consistent assistant markers for peach breeding programs.
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Chandath, Him, Ing Chhay Por, Yim Raksmey, and Diane Archer. Air Pollution and Workers’ Health in Cambodia’s Garment Sector. Stockholm Environment Institute, March 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.51414/sei2023.017.
Abstract:
The findings of this study can inform and enable policymakers in improving occupational air pollution, including addressing air pollution, pollution sources and other related issues in the garment manufacturing sector in Cambodia. Such interventions will help to uphold the health of workers as a human right, ensure safe workplaces, and also be beneficial for the country’s economic growth, as a healthy workforce is more productive. While the garment sector serves as Cambodia’s economic backbone and creates much-needed jobs, it is also a highly polluting industry, alongside being regularly implicated for not upholding labour rights. The sector emits pollutants to air from intensive energy use, solid and hazardous waste emissions, noise pollution and wastewater pollution discharge. Despite this, the sector’s environmental impacts in Cambodia, particularly in relation to air pollution, are not well known, and this gap was highlighted in the development of Cambodia’s 2021 Clean Air Plan. Aiming to fill this gap, in cooperation with SEI, the Air Quality and Noise Management Department of the General Directorate of Environmental Protection of Cambodia’s Ministry of Environment conducted a research project to improve understanding of air pollutant emissions from the textile industry and the health impacts on workers in Cambodia’s garment industry. The study drew on in-depth interviews with 323 garment factory workers across 16 factories, interviews with 16 factory owners, and quantitative data to better understand all interviewees’ experiences with occupational air pollution. While the research documented any symptoms related to air pollution, it did not employ medical research to assess the workers’ health status, nor did it attempt to investigate the cost or impact of air pollution on factory production. This policy briefing draws on a longer report prepared by the Ministry of Environment (Chandath, H., Chhay Por, I., Sokyimeng, S., Dana, S., Raksmey, Y. 2023. Understanding Air Pollution in the Garment Sector and Health Impacts on Workers: A Cambodian Case Study. Ministry of Environment, Cambodia. https://epa.moe.gov.kh/pages/categories/view/document-daqnm).
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Katzir, Nurit, James Giovannoni, and Joseph Burger. Genomic approach to the improvement of fruit quality in melon (Cucumis melo) and related cucurbit crops. United States Department of Agriculture, June 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.32747/2006.7587224.bard.
Abstract:
Fruit quality is determined by numerous genetic traits that affect taste, aroma, texture, pigmentation, nutritional value and duration of shelf-life. The molecular basis of many of these important traits is poorly understood and it’s understanding offers an excellent opportunity for adding value to agricultural products. Improvement of melon fruit quality was the primary goal of the project. The original objectives of the project were: The isolation of a minimum of 1000 fruit specific ESTs. The development of a microarray of melon fruit ESTs. The analysis of gene expression in melon using melon and tomato fruit enriched microarrays. A comprehensive study of fruit gene expression of the major cucurbit crops. In our current project we have focused on the development of genomics tools for the enhancement of melon research with an emphasis on fruit, specifically the first public melon EST collection. We have also developed a database to relay this information to the research community and developed a publicly available microarray. The release of this information was one of the catalysts for the establishment of the International Cucurbit Genomic Initiative (ICuGI, Barcelona, Spain, July 2005) aimed at collecting and generating up to 100,000 melon EST sequences in 2006, leveraging a significant expansion of melon genomic resources. A total of 1000 ESTs were promised under the original proposal (Objective 1). Non-subtracted mature fruit and young fruit flesh of a climacteric variety in addition to a non-climacteric variety resulted in the majority of additional EST sequences for a total of 4800 attempted reads. 3731 high quality sequences from independent ESTs were assembled, representing 2,467 melon unigenes (1,873 singletons, 594 contigs). In comparison, as of June 2004, a total of 170 melon mRNA sequences had been deposited in GENBANK. The current project has thus resulted in nearly five- fold the number of ESTs promised and ca. 15-fold increase in the depth of publicly available melon gene sequences. All of these sequences have been deposited in GENBANK and are also available and searchable via multiple approaches in the public database (http://melon.bti.cornell.edu). Our database was selected as the central location for presentation of public melon EST data of the International Cucurbit Genomic Initiative. With the available unigenes we recently constructed a microarray, which was successfully applied in hybridizations (planned public release by August 2006). Current gene expression analyses focus on fruit development and on comparative studies between climacteric and non-climacteric melons. Earlier, expression profiling was conducted using macroarrays developed at the preliminary stage of the project. This analysis replaced the study of tomato microarray following the recommendations of the reviewers and the panel of the original project. Comparative study between melon and other cucurbit crops have begun, mainly with watermelon, in collaboration with Dr. Amnon Levi (USDA-ARS). In conclusion, all four objectives have been addressed and achieved. In the continuation project that have been approved we plan to apply the genomic tools developed here to achieve detailed functional analyses of genes associated with major metabolic pathway.
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King, E. L., A. Normandeau, T. Carson, P. Fraser, C. Staniforth, A. Limoges, B. MacDonald, F. J. Murrillo-Perez, and N. Van Nieuwenhove. Pockmarks, a paleo fluid efflux event, glacial meltwater channels, sponge colonies, and trawling impacts in Emerald Basin, Scotian Shelf: autonomous underwater vehicle surveys, William Kennedy 2022011 cruise report. Natural Resources Canada/CMSS/Information Management, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.4095/331174.
Abstract:
A short but productive cruise aboard RV William Kennedy tested various new field equipment near Halifax (port of departure and return) but also in areas that could also benefit science understanding. The GSC-A Gavia Autonomous Underwater Vehicle equipped with bathymetric, sidescan and sub-bottom profiler was successfully deployed for the first time on Scotian Shelf science targets. It surveyed three small areas: two across known benthic sponge, Vazella (Russian Hat) within a DFO-directed trawling closure area on the SE flank of Sambro Bank, bordering Emerald Basin, and one across known pockmarks, eroded cone-shaped depression in soft mud due to fluid efflux. The sponge study sites (~ 150 170 m water depth) were known to lie in an area of till (subglacial diamict) exposure at the seabed. The AUV data identified gravel and cobble-rich seabed, registering individual clasts at 35 cm gridded resolution. A subtle variation in seabed texture is recognized in sidescan images, from cobble-rich on ridge crests and flanks, to limited mud-rich sediment in intervening troughs. Correlation between seabed topography and texture with the (previously collected) Vazella distribution along two transects is not straightforward. However there may be a preference for the sponge in the depressions, some of which have a thin but possibly ephemeral sediment cover. Both sponge study sites depict a hereto unknown morphology, carved in glacial deposits, consisting of a series of discontinuous ridges interpreted to be generated by erosion in multiple, continuous, meandering and cross-cutting channels. The morphology is identical to glacial Nye, or mp;lt;"N-mp;lt;"channels, cut by sub-glacial meltwater. However their scale (10 to 100 times mp;lt;"typicalmp;gt;" N-channels) and the unique eroded medium, (till rather than bedrock), presents a rare or unknown size and medium and suggests a continuum in sub-glacial meltwater channels between much larger tunnel valleys, common to the eastward, and the bedrock forms. A comparison is made with coastal Nova Scotia forms in bedrock. The Emerald Basin AUV site, targeting pockmarks was in ~260 to 270 m water depth and imaged eight large and one small pockmark. The main aim was to investigate possible recent or continuous fluid flux activity in light of ocean acidification or greenhouse gas contribution; most accounts to date suggested inactivity. While a lack of common attributes marking activity is confirmed, creep or rotational flank failure is recognized, as is a depletion of buried diffuse methane immediately below the seabed features. Discovery of a second, buried, pockmark horizon, with smaller but more numerous erosive cones and no spatial correlation to the buried diffuse gas or the seabed pockmarks, indicates a paleo-event of fluid or gas efflux; general timing and possible mechanisms are suggested. The basinal survey also registered numerous otter board trawl marks cutting the surficial mud from past fishing activity. The AUV data present a unique dataset for follow-up quantification of the disturbance. Recent realization that this may play a significant role in ocean acidification on a global scale can benefit from such disturbance quantification. The new pole-mounted sub-bottom profiler collected high quality data, enabling correlation of recently recognized till ridges exposed at the seabed as they become buried across the flank and base of the basin. These, along with the Nye channels, will help reconstruct glacial behavior and flow patterns which to date are only vaguely documented. Several cores provide the potential for stratigraphic dating of key horizons and will augment Holocene environmental history investigations by a Dalhousie University student. In summary, several unique features have been identified, providing sufficient field data for further compilation, analysis and follow-up publications.
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Paran, Ilan, and Molly Jahn. Analysis of Quantitative Traits in Pepper Using Molecular Markers. United States Department of Agriculture, January 2000. http://dx.doi.org/10.32747/2000.7570562.bard.
Abstract:
Original objectives: The overall goal of the proposal was to determine the genetic and molecular control of pathways leading to the production of secondary metabolites determining major fruit quality traits in pepper. The specific objectives were to: (1) Generate a molecular map of pepper based on simple sequence repeat (SSR) markers. (2) Map QTL for capsaicinoids content (3) Determine possible association between capsaicinoids and carotenoid content and structural genes for capsaicinoid and carotenoid biosynthesis. (4) Map QTL for quantitative traits controlling additional fruit traits. (5) Map fruit-specific ESTs and determine possible association with fruit QTL (6) Map the C locus that determines the presence and absence of capsaicinoids in pepper fruit and identify candidate genes for C. Background: Pungency, color, fruit shape and fruit size are among the most important fruit quality characteristics of pepper. Despite the importance of the pepper crop both in the USA and Israel, the genetic basis of these traits was only little known prior to the studies conducted in the present proposal. In addition, molecular tools for use in pepper improvement were lacking. Major conclusions and achievements: Our studies enabled the development of a saturated genetic map of pepper that includes numerous simple sequence repeat (SSR) markers and the integration of several independent maps into a single resource map that consists of over 2000 markers. Unlike previous maps that consisted mostly of tomato-originated RFLP markers, the SSR-based map consists of largely pepper markers. Therefore, the SSR and integrated maps provide ample of tools for use in marker-assisted selection for diverse targets throughout the Capsicum genome. We determined the genetic and molecular bases of qualitative and quantitative variation of pungency, the most unique characteristics of pepper fruit. We mapped and subsequently cloned the Pun1 gene that serves as a master key for capsaicinoids accumulation and showed that it is an acyltransferase. By sequencing the Pun1 gene in pungent and non-pungent cultivars we identified a deletion that abolishes the expression of the gene in the latter cultivars. We also identified QTLs that control capsaicinoids content and therefore pungency level. These genes will allow pepper breeders to manipulate the level of pungency for specific agricultural and industrial purposes. In addition to pungency we identified genes and QTLs that control other key developmental processes of fruit development such as color, texture and fruit shape. The A gene controlling anthocyanin accumulation in the immature fruit was found as the ortholog of the petunia transcription factor Anthocyanin2. The S gene required for the soft flesh and deciduous fruit nature typical of wild peppers was identified as the ortholog of tomato polygalacturonase. We identified two major QTLs controlling fruit shape, fs3.1 and fs10.1, that differentiate between elongated and blocky and round fruit shapes, respectively. Scientific and agricultural implications: Our studies allowed significant advancement of our understanding at the genetic and molecular levels of important processes of pepper fruit development. Concomitantly to gaining biological knowledge, we were able to develop molecular tools that can be implemented for pepper improvement.
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Paran, Ilan, and Molly Jahn. Genetics and comparative molecular mapping of biochemical and morphological fruit characters in Capsicum. United States Department of Agriculture, March 2005. http://dx.doi.org/10.32747/2005.7586545.bard.
Abstract:
Original objectives: The overall goal of our work was to gain information regarding the genetic and molecular control of pathways leading to the production of secondary metabolites determining major fruit quality traits in pepper and to develop tools based on this information to assist in crop improvement. The specific objectives were to: (1) Generate a molecular map of pepper based on simple sequence repeat (SSR) markers. (2) Map QTL for capsaicinoid (pungency) content (3) Determine possible association between capsaicinoid and carotenoid content and structural genes for capsaicinoid and carotenoid biosynthesis. (4) Map QTL for quantitative traits controlling additional fruit traits. (5) Map fruit-specific ESTs and determine possible association with fruit QTL (6) Map the C locus that determines the presence and absence of capsaicinoid in pepper fruit and identify candidate genes for C.locus. Background: Pungency, color, fruit shape and fruit size are among the most important fruit quality characteristics of pepper. Despite the importance of the pepper crop both in the USA and Israel, the genetic basis of these traits was poorly understood prior to the studies conducted in the present proposal. In addition, molecular tools for use in pepper improvement were lacking. Major conclusions and achievements: Our studies enabled the development of a saturated genetic map of pepper that includes numerous SSR markers. This map has been integrated with a number of other independent maps resulting in the publication of a single resource map consisting of more than 2000 markers. Unlike previous maps based primarily on tomato-originated RFLP markers, the new maps are based on PCR markers that originate in Capsicum providing a comprehensive and versatile resource for marker-assisted selection in pepper. We determined the genetic and molecular bases of qualitative and quantitative variation of pungency, a character unique to pepper fruit. We mapped and subsequently cloned the Pun1 gene that serves as a master regulatoar for capsaicinoid accumulation and showed that it is an acyltransferase. By sequencing the Pun1 gene in pungent and non-pungent cultivars we identified a deletion that abolishes the expression of the gene in the latter cultivars. We also identified QTL that control capsaicinoid content and therefore pungency level. These genes will allow pepper breeders to manipulate the level of pungency for specific agricultural and industrial purposes. In addition to pungency we identified genes and QTL that control other key developmental processes of fruit development such as color, texture and fruit shape. The A gene controlling anthocyanin accumulation in the immature fruit was found as the ortholog of the petunia transcription factor Anthocyanin2. The S gene required for the soft flesh and deciduous fruit nature typical of wild peppers was identified as the ortholog of tomato polygalacturonase. We identified two major QTL controlling fruit shape, fs3.1 and fs10.1, that differentiate elongated and blocky and round fruit shapes, respectively. Scientific and agricultural implications: Our studies allowed significant advances in our understanding of important processes of pepper fruit development including the isolation and characterization of several well known genes. These results also provided the basis for the development of molecular tools that can be implemented for pepper improvement. A total of eleven refereed publications have resulted from this work, and several more are in preparation.
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Aharoni, Asaph, Zhangjun Fei, Efraim Lewinsohn, Arthur Schaffer, and Yaakov Tadmor. System Approach to Understanding the Metabolic Diversity in Melon. United States Department of Agriculture, July 2013. http://dx.doi.org/10.32747/2013.7593400.bard.
Abstract:
Fruit quality is determined by numerous genetic factors that affect taste, aroma, color, texture, nutritional value and shelf life. To unravel the genetic components involved in the metabolic pathways behind these traits, the major goal of the project was to identify novel genes that are involved in, or that regulate, these pathways using correlation analysis between genotype, metabolite and gene expression data. The original and specific research objectives were: (1) Collection of replicated fruit from a population of 96 RI lines derived from parents distinguished by great diversity in fruit development and quality phenotypes, (2) Phenotypic and metabolic profiling of mature fruit from all 96 RI lines and their parents, (3) 454 pyrosequencing of cDNA representing mRNA of mature fruit from each line to facilitate gene expression analysis based on relative EST abundance, (4) Development of a database modeled after an existing database developed for tomato introgression lines (ILs) to facilitate online data analysis by members of this project and by researchers around the world. The main functions of the database will be to store and present metabolite and gene expression data so that correlations can be drawn between variation in target traits or metabolites across the RI population members and variation in gene expression to identify candidate genes which may impact phenotypic and chemical traits of interest, (5) Selection of RI lines for segregation and/or hybridization (crosses) analysis to ascertain whether or not genes associated with traits through gene expression/metabolite correlation analysis are indeed contributors to said traits. The overall research strategy was to utilize an available recombinant inbred population of melon (Cucumis melo L.) derived from phenotypically diverse parents and for which over 800 molecular markers have been mapped for the association of metabolic trait and gene expression QTLs. Transcriptomic data were obtained by high throughput sequencing using the Illumina platform instead of the originally planned 454 platform. The change was due to the fast advancement and proven advantages of the Illumina platform, as explained in the first annual scientific report. Metabolic data were collected using both targeted (sugars, organic acids, carotenoids) and non-targeted metabolomics analysis methodologies. Genes whose expression patterns were associated with variation of particular metabolites or fruit quality traits represent candidates for the molecular mechanisms that underlie them. Candidate genes that may encode enzymes catalyzingbiosynthetic steps in the production of volatile compounds of interest, downstream catabolic processes of aromatic amino acids and regulatory genes were selected and are in the process of functional analyses. Several of these are genes represent unanticipated effectors of compound accumulation that could not be identified using traditional approaches. According to the original plan, the Cucurbit Genomics Network (http://www.icugi.org/), developed through an earlier BARD project (IS-3333-02), was expanded to serve as a public portal for the extensive metabolomics and transcriptomic data resulting from the current project. Importantly, this database was also expanded to include genomic and metabolomic resources of all the cucurbit crops, including genomes of cucumber and watermelon, EST collections, genetic maps, metabolite data and additional information. In addition, the database provides tools enabling researchers to identify genes, the expression patterns of which correlate with traits of interest. The project has significantly expanded the existing EST resource for melon and provides new molecular tools for marker-assisted selection. This information will be opened to the public by the end of 2013, upon the first publication describing the transcriptomic and metabolomics resources developed through the project. In addition, well-characterized RI lines are available to enable targeted breeding for genes of interest. Segregation of the RI lines for specific metabolites of interest has been shown, demonstrating the utility in these lines and our new molecular and metabolic data as a basis for selection targeting specific flavor, quality, nutritional and/or defensive compounds. To summarize, all the specific goals of the project have been achieved and in many cases exceeded. Large scale trascriptomic and metabolomic resources have been developed for melon and will soon become available to the community. The usefulness of these has been validated. A number of novel genes involved in fruit ripening have been selected and are currently being functionally analyzed. We thus fully addressed our obligations to the project. In our view, however, the potential value of the project outcomes as ultimately manifested may be far greater than originally anticipated. The resources developed and expanded under this project, and the tools created for using them will enable us, and others, to continue to employ resulting data and discoveries in future studies with benefits both in basic and applied agricultural - scientific research.
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Banin, Amos, Joseph Stucki, and Joel Kostka. Redox Processes in Soils Irrigated with Reclaimed Sewage Effluents: Field Cycles and Basic Mechanism. United States Department of Agriculture, July 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.32747/2004.7695870.bard.
Abstract:
The overall objectives of the project were: (a) To measure and study in situ the effect of irrigation with reclaimed sewage effluents on redox processes and related chemical dynamics in soil profiles of agricultural fields. (b) To study under controlled conditions the kinetics and equilibrium states of selected processes that affect redox conditions in field soils or that are effected by them. Specifically, these include the effects on heavy metals sorption and desorption, and the effect on pesticide degradation. On the basis of the initial results from the field study, increased effort was devoted to clarifying and quantifying the effects of plants and water regime on the soil's redox potential while the study of heavy metals sorption was limited. The use of reclaimed sewage effluents as agricultural irrigation water is increasing at a significant rate. The relatively high levels of suspended and, especially, dissolved organic matter and nitrogen in effluents may affect the redox regime in field soils irrigated with them. In turn, the changes in redox regime may affect, among other parameters, the organic matter and nitrogen dynamics of the root zone and trace organic decomposition processes. Detailed data of the redox potential regime in field plots is lacking, and the detailed mechanisms of its control are obscure and not quantified. The study established the feasibility of long-term, non-disturbing monitoring of redox potential regime in field soils. This may enable to manage soil redox under conditions of continued inputs of wastewater. The importance of controlling the degree of wastewater treatment, particularly of adding ultrafiltration steps and/or tertiary treatment, may be assessed based on these and similar results. Low redox potential was measured in a field site (Site A, KibutzGivat Brenner), that has been irrigated with effluents for 30 years and was used for 15 years for continuous commercial sod production. A permanently reduced horizon (Time weighted averaged pe= 0.33±3.0) was found in this site at the 15 cm depth throughout the measurement period of 10 months. A drastic cultivation intervention, involving prolonged drying and deep plowing operations may be required to reclaim such soils. Site B, characterized by a loamy texture, irrigated with tap water for about 20 years was oxidized (Time weighted average pe=8.1±1.0) throughout the measurement period. Iron in the solid phases of the Givat Brenner soils is chemically-reduced by irrigation. Reduced Fe in these soils causes a change in reactivity toward the pesticide oxamyl, which has been determined to be both cytotoxic and genotoxic to mammalian cells. Reaction of oxamyl with reduced-Fe clay minerals dramatically decreases its cytotoxicity and genotoxicity to mammalian cells. Some other pesticides are affected in the same manner, whereas others are affected in the opposite direction (become more cyto- and genotoxic). Iron-reducing bacteria (FeRB) are abundant in the Givat Brenner soils. FeRB are capable of coupling the oxidation of small molecular weight carbon compounds (fermentation products) to the respiration of iron under anoxic conditions, such as those that occur under flooded soil conditions. FeRB from these soils utilize a variety of Fe forms, including Fe-containing clay minerals, as the sole electron acceptor. Daily cycles of the soil redox potential were discovered and documented in controlled-conditions lysimeter experiments. In the oxic range (pe=12-8) soil redox potential cycling is attributed to the effect of the daily temperature cycle on the equilibrium constant of the oxygenation reaction of H⁺ to form H₂O, and is observed under both effluent and freshwater irrigation. The presence of plants affects considerably the redox potential regime of soils. Redox potential cycling coupled to the irrigation cycles is observed when the soil becomes anoxic and the redox potential is controlled by the Fe(III)/Fe(II) redox couple. This is particularly seen when plants are grown. Re-oxidation of the soil after soil drying at the end of an irrigation cycle is affected to some degree by the water quality. Surprisingly, the results suggest that under certain conditions recovery is less pronounced in the freshwater irrigated soils.