Journal articles on the topic 'Plus-size apparel'

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to explore experiences with shopping for apparel among mothers of young girls who wear plus sizes. Design/methodology/approach A qualitative approach was employed to collect data, including in-depth interviews and online observation. Interviews were conducted with mothers because the literature indicates that they typically function as intermediaries between social forces and their children’s developing perceptions of self. Findings Three primary emergent themes were used to structure the interpretation: the style factor, a good fit and working around the label. Findings of this study reveal the extent to which the mothers face challenges in finding stylish, age appropriate and well-fitting plus-sized clothing for their young daughters, despite the increasing number of retailers offering expanded children’s sizes. Originality/value Despite the notable increase in children who wear plus sizes, there has been little research on the needs of this group, and particularly among those of early (3–5 years) and middle childhood (6–11 years). Although research on plus sizes among adolescents is on the increase, the difficulties of conducting research with younger children in general have likely resulted in a gap in knowledge about their plus-size apparel needs. However, this study offers new insight on the topic of plus sizes in apparel from the perspective of parents as household consumption decision makers.

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to explore apparel-related issues experienced by plus-size female teens around the functional, expressive, and aesthetic consumer needs model. The goal was to uncover any issues which have interfered with or restricted apparel purchases. Design/methodology/approach – A mixed methods research design was employed to collect body measurements with the use of a 3D body scanner and conduct in-depth interviews with a convenience sample of 30 plus-size females aged 12-17 years and their families. Findings – The current US sizing system does not fully meet the measurement needs of this study group. Functional fit requirements often dictate the apparel purchased by plus-size female teens. Expressive and aesthetic desires often go unfulfilled by the apparel that satisfied their functional needs. Confusion over apparel size designations interfered with brand and store loyalty and resulted in fewer purchases from both physical and online stores. Practical implications – Plus-sizes are the fastest growing segment of apparel and offer brands and retailers substantial opportunity for market growth. Plus-size female teens desire to increase their apparel purchases, but have been hindered by certain product development and merchandising practices. Participants made suggestions for brands and retailers to increase sales in the plus-size female teen market. Originality/value – This study is unique by uncovering previously unknown issues regarding apparel fit and purchase behaviors of the plus-size female teens as well as relating participant’s advice to the apparel industry on this target market.

Women, regardless of size, should have access to functional, fashionable, and affordable exercise apparel. Grounded in Lamb and Kallal’s Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic Consumer Needs Model, we explored (a) women’s perceptions of plus-size exercise apparel and shopping experiences and (b) plus-size exercise apparel at online retailers. In Study 1, women reported their shopping behaviors, satisfaction, affect, and feedback for designer and retailers. In Study 2, availability, cost, and color variety of plus-size exercise T-shirts were documented at online retailers. Images of product models and sizing chart variations were examined. Women were generally dissatisfied with apparel-related functionality, fashionability, and cost. Plus-size exercise T-shirts at online retailers were limited in color variety and size availability and cost more than straight-size apparel. Unrealistic models and wide sizing variations appear problematic. Advocacy and action are needed to provide women with larger bodies’ equitable access to functional, expressive, aesthetic, and affordable exercise apparel.

Seventy-one large-size women (Size 16 and over) participated in an assessment of their clothing interest, satisfactions, and dissatisfactions with ready-to-wear apparel for six types of apparel and seven factors such as color, fabric, fashion, fit, selection, size, and style. Analysis showed that the respondents were satisfied with five of the six apparel categories. However, opinion regarding satisfaction differed by size and age. Fit and size were the most common problem areas. Satisfaction and problems were associated with specific articles of apparel. Several implications were discussed.

The retail landscape includes a vast array of clothing choices, yet style options remain extremely limited for Canadian women in the plus-size category (sizes 14W‐40W). Our study empowered women who wear size 20+ by bringing them into the conversation about plus-size apparel design and development. Few studies have identified clothing solutions utilized by plus-size women or how clothing impacts their feelings about themselves, and there is no research on the clothing needs of women in the upper plus-size range. We recruited participants through Facebook posts to plus-size communities and clothing swap groups located in a major Canadian city. Our research design had a human-centred focus and included co-design methods. Activities included body mapping, body scanning and co-design activities with sixteen women in a full-day workshop to unpack their ideas about plus-size clothing in a body-positive space to foster confidence, strength and autonomy. Body maps allowed our participants to embrace creativity as a tool to communicate meaning in an empowering way. Body scanning provided a quick way to electronically capture body shape and size through circumferential measurements. Co-design activities included drawing and writing. Proposed clothing designs were drawn on body templates derived from participant’s personal body scans. Participants elaborated on their clothing ideas by completing a needs and features chart to share perceived problems and propose solutions. Emergent themes included participants’ ideas about meaning and empowerment, proposed clothing designs, detailed information regarding clothing fit and selection challenges, as well as their feelings about the co-design process. Consultation with people, using co-design methods is a way to reveal fashion gaps and an opportunity to improve customer satisfaction and increase sales and thus is important to designers and retailers specializing in the plus-size market.

Purpose Plus size clothing is becoming a fashion trend worldwide due to the body positivity movement sparked off by the growing obesity rates and fat shaming incidents reported around the world. Although the problems relating to plus size clothing in the global context have been addressed, thereby establishing certain norms in the market, none of this work has proved helpful in assessing the level of customer satisfaction in the Sri Lankan plus size market. In view of this lacuna, this paper aims to probe customer preferences and identify the problems currently prevailing in the plus size women’s wear fashion market in Sri Lanka. Design/methodology/approach Data were gathered through both qualitative and quantitative methods. For this purpose, visits were made to several fashion outlets in the Colombo area offering plus size clothing to observe the available product categories, size ranges, fabrics, finishing methods and designs at each outlet. A closed-ended questionnaire survey was conducted to identify the perception of the customers on the current plus size fashion market. Semi-structured interviews with designers working at selected Sri Lankan fashion brands that catered to the plus size market were carried out to acquire an understanding of the current plus size fashion industry from the garment manufacturer’s perspective and to learn about the current construction techniques in the industry. Findings The results indicated that 55.6% of the plus size women who participated in the survey were either dissatisfied or only moderately satisfied with the current products available in the Sri Lankan market. The major cause for the dissatisfaction was the inability to find well-fitting clothes to suit their body proportions and the unavailability of trendy, fashionable clothes. Ideally, they preferred fashionable, comfortable, well-fitting and good quality garments. Unavailability of standardized sizing methods and lack of up-to-date information on the female body were identified as the main issues in the Sri Lankan plus size women’s wear market. Therefore, the necessity for a standardized size chart for plus size women based on Sri Lankan anthropometric data was emphasized by designers. Originality/value The findings will be useful for the Sri Lankan apparel producers as well as retailers as they will have a better understanding of not only the fit and aesthetic preferences but also the overall shopping preferences of plus size women. This will help them to develop marketing strategies to cater to this Sri Lankan niche market segment, as currently there is no documented information on plus size Sri Lankan women’s clothing preferences.

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to analyze petite women’s body size and figure and investigate whether current petite sizing charts accurately reflect actual petit size women’s bodies. This study also categorizes petite women’s body shapes and suggests primary body measurements as a base size for each shape. The ultimate goal is to suggest fundamental body measurements for apparel companies to modify and improve their sizing. Design/methodology/approach – This study used data from SizeUSA data to compare body measurements of 18-35-year-old petite women to regular women. The authors compared the results to measurement differences between petite and regular sizing charts of 14 apparel companies. Then, using the principal component analysis and cluster analysis, the authors classified petite women’s body shapes. Body measurements for each body type are contrasted with the current petite sizing charts, and then, the authors present differences as suggestions for modification and improvement of petite sizing. Findings – Industry sizing system do not generally represent average petite size women preciously except for stature. Within the petite women, four body types were identified (top petite: 30.0 percent, bottom petite: 30.8 percent, regular petite: 23.6 percent, and plus size: 15.4 percent). Of the four groups, the ASTM D7878 generally represented the “top petite” sizing. Originality/value – It is the first to analyze the industry petite sizing system utilizing population data and focus petite sizing for women aged 18-35. The authors believe this study could draw attention of the apparel industry, providing companies with ideas of how to improve their petite sizing for young women.

Batik industry has mostly been producing apparels only for standard size and none of the online platform that sells batik has been supported body positivity campaign. Another problem is found in the online stores, which do not support multi stores. Most of the existed marketplaces do not provide multi store for the users. There exists platform with multi store capability. However, the users have to pay a substantial amount of fee for the activation [magento]. Therefore, the purpose of this research is to analyze the business process of creating an online platform to sell batik specifically to people with oversize condition with multi stores capability. The multi store capability (done by other research fellows) is part of a project, which includes this research. We have conducted preliminary online research and interview and surveys after the prototype has been launched to get feedback from users. Users believe the idea of the platform and the development is a good start and it has contributed to positive .

Growth from conception to reproductive onset in African elephants ( Loxodonta africana ) provides insights into phenotypic plasticity, individual adaptive plastic responses and facultative maternal investment. Using growth for 867 and life histories for 2652 elephants over 40 years, we demonstrate that maternal inexperience plus drought in early life result in reduced growth rates for sons and higher mortality for both sexes. Slow growth during early lactation was associated with smaller adult size, later age at first reproduction, reduced lifetime survival and consequently limited reproductive output. These enduring effects of trading slow early growth against immediate survival were apparent over the very long term; delayed downstream consequences were unexpected for a species with a maximum longevity of 70+ years and unpredictable environmental experiences.

Blended Elemental Powder Metallurgy is a very attractive method for producing titanium alloys, which can be formed near net shape and have freedom in composition selection. However applications are still limited due to affordability. In this paper, we will discuss a possible cost-effective route, combining vacuum sintering, extrusion, and heat treatment, to produce titanium alloys with similar or better mechanical properties than that of ingot metallurgy titanium alloys. The as-processed material with an oxygen content of 0.34 ± 0.005 wt.% was subjected to heat treatments such as β annealing plus ageing and α+β annealing without ageing to attain a typical lamellar/Widmanstätten/basketweave type structure with a large variation in terms of the microstructural features such as grain size, colony size, inter-lamellar spacing, thickness of grain boundary α, and size of individual lamellar. From mechanical property data attained here, it was apparent that annealing in high α-β region gave a much better combination of mechanical properties: yield strength (860-902 MPa), ultimate tensile strength (1060-1084 MPa) and ductility/plastic strain (11.5-13.6%). The hardness values of heat treated material varied between 346-376 Vickers hardness (36.8-44.5 Rockwell hardness).

Purpose Risk of recurrence is the primary consideration in breast cancer adjuvant therapy recommendations. The TEXT (Tamoxifen and Exemestane Trial) and SOFT (Suppression of Ovarian Function Trial) trials investigated adjuvant endocrine therapies for premenopausal women with hormone receptor–positive breast cancer, testing exemestane plus ovarian function suppression (OFS), tamoxifen plus OFS, and tamoxifen alone. We examined absolute treatment effect across a continuum of recurrence risk to individualize endocrine therapy decision making for premenopausal women with human epidermal growth factor receptor 2 (HER2) –negative disease. Patients and Methods The TEXT and SOFT hormone receptor–positive, HER2-negative analysis population included 4,891 women. The end point was breast cancer–free interval (BCFI), defined as time from random assignment to first occurrence of invasive locoregional, distant, or contralateral breast cancer. A continuous, composite measure of recurrence risk for each patient was determined from a Cox model incorporating age, nodal status, tumor size and grade, and estrogen receptor, progesterone receptor, and Ki-67 expression levels. Subpopulation treatment effect pattern plot methodology revealed differential treatment effects on 5-year BCFI according to composite risk. Results SOFT patients who remained premenopausal after chemotherapy experienced absolute improvement of 5% or more in 5-year BCFI with exemestane plus OFS versus tamoxifen plus OFS or tamoxifen alone, reaching 10% to 15% at intermediate to high composite risk; the benefit of tamoxifen plus OFS versus tamoxifen alone was apparent at the highest composite risk. The SOFT no-chemotherapy cohort—for whom composite risk was lowest on average—did well with all endocrine therapies. For TEXT patients, the benefit of exemestane plus OFS versus tamoxifen plus OFS in 5-year BCFI ranged from 5% to 15%; patients not receiving chemotherapy and with lowest composite risk did well with both treatments. Conclusion Premenopausal women with hormone receptor–positive, HER2-negative disease and high recurrence risk, as defined by clinicopathologic characteristics, may experience improvement of 10% to 15% in 5-year BCFI with exemestane plus OFS versus tamoxifen alone. An improvement of at least 5% may be achieved for women at intermediate risk, and improvement is minimal for those at lowest risk.

AbstractThe objective of this work was to determine the apparent bioavailability of magnesium from four different types of calcined magnesites of Greek origin. These four types (A, B, C, D) were different in particle size fractions and production process. The solubility of the above four magnesium samples and their fractions were determined: (a) in the laboratory using ammonium nitrate solution after 24-h shaking and (b) in vivo using a nylon bag technique after 24-h incubation.Solubility was correlated with apparent bioavailability as determined in a balance experiment with five wether sheep in a 5×5 Latin-square design.Sheep were kept in metabolism cages and were given daily a basal diet (500 g hay + 700 g concentrate) plus 2 g magnesium supplements from types A to D. The magnesium bioavailability of the basal diet was used as a base for the determination of the bioavailability of magnesium in A, B, C and D supplements.Magnesium apparent bioavailability of the basal diet was found to be 0·203 and, for the supplements A, B, C and D, 0·381, 0·339, 0·315 and 0·292 respectively. The solubility of supplements A, B, C and D in ammonium nitrate solution and in vivo (using the nylon-bag technique) was found to be 0·812, 0·805, 0·784 and 0·773 or 0·294, 0·152, 0·102 and 0·200 respectively.The solubilities of the magnesium supplements in ammonium nitrate solution and in vivo both reflected dietary bioavailability differences up to a point, but neither was well enough correlated with the apparent bioavailability as determined by the balance experiment, this being judged to be the most precise method for bioavailability determination.

Abstract. Measurements of the aerosol size distribution from 11 nm to 2.5 microns were made in Mexico City in March 2006, during the MILAGRO (Megacity Initiative: Local and Global Research Observations) field campaign. Observations at the urban supersite, referred to as T0, could often be characterized by morning conditions with high particle mass concentrations, low mixing heights, and highly correlated particle number and CO2 concentrations, indicative that particle number is controlled by primary emissions. Average size-resolved and total number- and volume-based emission factors for combustion sources impacting T0 have been determined using a comparison of peak sizes in particle number and CO2 concentration. Peaks are determined by subtracting the measured concentration from a calculated baseline concentration time series. The number emission and volume emission factors for particles from 11 nm to 494 nm are 1.56 × 1015 particles, and 9.48 × 1011 cubic microns per kg of carbon, respectively. The uncertainty of the number emission factor is approximately plus or minus 50 %. The mode of the number emission factor was between 25 and 32 nm, while the mode of the volume factor was between 0.25 and 0.32 microns. These emission factors are reported as log normal model parameters and are compared with multiple emission factors from the literature. In Mexico City in the afternoon, the CO2 concentration drops during ventilation of the polluted layer, and the coupling between CO2 and particle number breaks down, especially during new particle formation events when particle number is no longer controlled by primary emissions. Using measurements of particle number and CO2 taken aboard the NASA DC-8, the determined primary emission factor was applied to the Mexico City Metropolitan Area (MCMA) plume to quantify the degree of secondary particle formation in the plume; the primary emission factor accounts for less than 50 % of the total particle number and the surplus particle count is not correlated with photochemical age. Primary particle volume and number in the size range 0.1–2 μm are similarly too low to explain the observed volume distribution. Contrary to the case for number, the apparent secondary volume increases with photochemical age. The size distribution of the apparent increase, with a mode at ~250 nm, is reported.

Abstract Greenhouse-grown seedlings were transplanted in single rows on 30 Mar on 32 inch beds, 240 feet long on 6 foot centers covered whiteface polyethylene film. Six treatments and a control were assigned to 6 plots 19 ft long per bed in a randomized complete block design with 4 replications. Plots were separated by 3 ft of fall-planted collards to provide inocula of target pests. Spray treatments were applied for 8 consecutive weeks starting 13 Apr using a 12 tank sprayer equipped with a diaphragm pump powered by a gasoline engine mounted on a small trailer drawn by a 4-wheel drive Suzuki ATV. A single row boom consisting of 2 side drops with 2 nozzles each plus one nozzle over the row gave a total of 5 nozzles. Yellow Albuz® ceramic tipped nozzles were used at 80 PSI of pump pressure for a delivery rate of 35 gpa. Weekly evaluations were carried out on 8 randomly selected plants per plot by evaluating the inner 5 wrapper leaves and the head of each plant. Number and size of live DBM and CSCW larvae plus pupae were recorded. Damage was assessed using a Horsfall type rating scale from 1 (no apparent damage) to 6 (>30% leaf area eaten, head heavily damaged). At maturity the 8 best heads per plot were selected and graded for marketability based on insect damage to the head and the inner two wrapper leaves. Heads were considered marketable if they had less than 5% damage and the wrapper leaves had less than 10% damage.

Context. We continue to study star formation in dwarf galaxies located in nearby clusters. Aims. Known physical and chemical relations outlining the formation and evolution of dwarfs is compared in different environments, including the Local Volume (LV) and some nearby clusters studied previously. Methods. We used the TNG telescope for four nights in 2010 to acquire deep near-infrared imaging in K′ of 45 star forming dwarf galaxies located in the Abell 779, Abell 1367, Abell 1656 (Coma), and Abell 2151 (Hercules) clusters. Results. Surface photometry was approached based on past experience by using the sech law to account for the outer old stellar contribution plus a Gaussian component to model the inner starburst, proving the blue compact dwarf (BCD) classification of most targets. Sech central surface brightness, semimajor axis, sech, and total apparent magnitude were measured, allowing to estimate size, absolute luminosity and mass for all targets. Conclusions. The physical correlations between size, central brightness, and NIR luminosity appear to hold, but previously known linear fits break above MSK = − ​19 for Abell 779, Abell 1367 and especially for Hercules, while the dwarf fundamental plane (FP) is probed by only half cluster members, suggesting harassment by the denser cluster environments. Nevertheless, the chemical relations between the oxygen abundance, luminosity, gas mass, baryonic mass, and gas fraction in a closed box model are probed by most members of the four studied clusters, and the starburst grows linearly with the K′ luminosity.

1.Albumin is normally excreted as a mixture of intact protein and fragments that are produced during renal passage. The purpose of this study was to investigate the ratio of intact versus degraded forms of excreted albumin to ascertain whether changes in this ratio could account for the apparent increase in albumin excretion seen in diabetes, as measured by standard radioimmunoassay techniques. 2.Four-week male Sprague–Dawley rats with streptozotocin-induced diabetes and age-matched control rats were intravenously injected with [3H]albumin. Urine collected over 2 h was analysed by size exclusion chromatography and radioimmunoassay. A standard radioimmunoassay found a 7-fold increase in albumin excretion rate in diabetic rats, whereas there was only a 2-fold increase in albumin excretion (intact plus fragments). Urine analysed by size exclusion chromatography showed severe degradation for control rats (% monomer = 4±2%); in diabetic rats there was a significant amount of monomer albumin excreted, along with moderately degraded and heavily degraded albumin (% monomer = 17±5%). 3.This study has shown that the radioimmunoassay, which specifically detects intact albumin, considerably underestimates the amount of total urinary albumin which consists of intact and degraded material. The increase in albumin excretion rate observed in diabetes as measured by radioimmunoassay is mainly due to a change in the amount of intact albumin excreted and this is specifically due to the inhibition of albumin degradation at a post-glomerular site and not due to the onset of any type of glomerular ‘shunt' pathway.

We have surveyed intron-containing RNAs of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae by filter hybridization with pre-tRNA intron-specific oligonucleotide probes. We have classified various RNAs as pre-tRNAs, splicing intermediates, or excised intron products according to apparent size and structure. Linear, excised intron products were detected, and one example was isolated and sequenced directly. Additional probes designed to detect other precursor sequences were used to verify the identification of several intermediates. Pre-tRNA species with both 5' leader and 3' extension, with 3' extension only, and with mature ends were distinguished. From these results, we conclude that the processing reactions used to remove the 5' leader and 3' extension from the transcript are ordered 5' end trimming before 3' end trimming. Splicing intermediates containing the 5' exon plus the intron were detected. The splice site cleavage reactions are probably ordered 3' splice site cleavage before 5' splice site cleavage. Surprisingly, we also detected a splicing intermediate with the 5' leader and a spliced product with both 5' leader and 3' extension. Evidently, splicing and end trimming are not ordered relative to each other, splicing occurring either before or after end trimming.

We have surveyed intron-containing RNAs of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae by filter hybridization with pre-tRNA intron-specific oligonucleotide probes. We have classified various RNAs as pre-tRNAs, splicing intermediates, or excised intron products according to apparent size and structure. Linear, excised intron products were detected, and one example was isolated and sequenced directly. Additional probes designed to detect other precursor sequences were used to verify the identification of several intermediates. Pre-tRNA species with both 5' leader and 3' extension, with 3' extension only, and with mature ends were distinguished. From these results, we conclude that the processing reactions used to remove the 5' leader and 3' extension from the transcript are ordered 5' end trimming before 3' end trimming. Splicing intermediates containing the 5' exon plus the intron were detected. The splice site cleavage reactions are probably ordered 3' splice site cleavage before 5' splice site cleavage. Surprisingly, we also detected a splicing intermediate with the 5' leader and a spliced product with both 5' leader and 3' extension. Evidently, splicing and end trimming are not ordered relative to each other, splicing occurring either before or after end trimming.

Abstract. We describe the probabilistic physics of rarefied particle motions and deposition on rough hillslope surfaces. The particle energy balance involves gravitational heating with conversion of potential to kinetic energy, frictional cooling associated with particle–surface collisions, and an apparent heating associated with preferential deposition of low-energy particles. Deposition probabilistically occurs with frictional cooling in relation to the distribution of particle energy states whose spatial evolution is described by a Fokker–Planck equation. The Kirkby number Ki – defined as the ratio of gravitational heating to frictional cooling – sets the basic deposition behavior and the form of the probability distribution fr(r) of particle travel distances r, a generalized Pareto distribution. The shape and scale parameters of the distribution are well-defined mechanically. For isothermal conditions where frictional cooling matches gravitational heating plus the apparent heating due to deposition, the distribution fr(r) is exponential. With non-isothermal conditions and small Ki this distribution is bounded and represents rapid thermal collapse. With increasing Ki the distribution fr(r) becomes heavy-tailed and represents net particle heating. It may possess a finite mean and finite variance, or the mean and variance may be undefined with sufficiently large Ki. The formulation provides key elements of the entrainment forms of the particle flux and the Exner equation, and it clarifies the mechanisms of particle-size sorting on large talus and scree slopes. Namely, with conversion of translational to rotational kinetic energy, large spinning particles are less likely to be stopped by collisional friction than are small or angular particles for the same surface roughness.

The broad biogeographic distribution of Hesperornis fossils in Late Cretaceous Western Interior Seaway deposits has prompted questions about whether they endured polar winters or migrated between mid- and high latitudes. Here, we compare microstructures of hesperornithiform long bones from Kansas and the Arctic to investigate whether migration or Late Cretaceous polar climate affected bone growth. We also examine modern penguin bones to determine how migration and climate may influence bone growth in birds with known behaviours. Histological analysis of hesperornithiform samples reveals continuous bone deposition throughout the cortex, plus an outer circumferential layer in adults. No cyclic growth marks, zonation or differences in vasculature are apparent in the Hesperornis specimens. Comparatively, migratory Adélie and chinstrap penguin bones show no zonation or changes in microstructure, suggesting that migration is not necessarily recorded in avian bone microstructure. Non-migratory gentoos show evidence of rapid bone growth possibly associated with increased chick growth rates in high-latitude populations and large body size. The absence of histological evidence for migration in extinct Hesperornis and extant pygoscelid penguins may reflect that these birds reached skeletal maturity before migration or overwintering. This underscores the challenges of using bone microstructure to infer the effects of behaviour and climate on avian growth.

Quantifying soil organic carbon (SOC) inputs in the surface soil is a critical component for assessing the potential for carbon sequestration of managed pine forests. This study used a sequential exclusion of aboveground litter inputs (L, litter exclusion) and aboveground plus belowground inputs (LR, litter and root exclusion) to segregate carbon sources contributing to the development and maintenance of SOC in the surface soil supporting juvenile loblolly pine (Pinus taeda L.) in its rapid growth phase. The study spanned the 7th to 10th year of stand growth. Soil physical size fractions (>2 mm, ≤2 mm, 2000–250 μm, 250–150 μm, 150–53 μm, and <53 μm) were used to investigate the change in native SOC over time in the untreated control plots (UC, untreated control) and the effects of exclusion treatments. An accretion rate of 4.6 Mg SOC·ha−1 of soil·year−1 was observed in the fine earth fraction (≤2 mm), reflecting the rapid phase of stand growth. The accretion was primarily observed in the upper 10 cm of the soil. Treatment effects were most apparent in soil bulk density, SOC of the fine earth, and 150–53 μm size fractions. In general, changes in SOC observed in the L treatment was an intermediate increase between the UC and LR treatments, where only the removal of roots provided no change in SOC and was significantly different from the control (p = 0.05). We conclude that a major contributor to the maintenance and increase of SOC in this fast-growing pine ecosystem was due to root turnover (60%), with 40% due to aboveground litter inputs.

Abstract. Aerosol samples were collected at a pasture site in the Amazon Basin as part of the project LBA-SMOCC-2002 (Large-Scale Biosphere-Atmosphere Experiment in Amazonia – Smoke Aerosols, Clouds, Rainfall and Climate: Aerosols from Biomass Burning Perturb Global and Regional Climate). Sampling was conducted during the late dry season, when the aerosol composition was dominated by biomass burning emissions, especially in the submicron fraction. A 13-stage Dekati low-pressure impactor (DLPI) was used to collect particles with nominal aerodynamic diameters ranging from 0.03 to 0.10 μm. Gravimetric analyses of the DLPI substrates and filters were performed to obtain aerosol mass concentrations. The concentrations of total, apparent elemental, and organic carbon (TC, ECa, and OC) were determined using thermal and thermal-optical analysis (TOA) methods. A light transmission method (LTM) was used to determine the concentration of equivalent black carbon (BCe) or the absorbing fraction at 880 nm for the size-resolved samples. During the dry period, due to the pervasive presence of fires in the region upwind of the sampling site, concentrations of fine aerosols (Dp < 2.5 μm: average 59.8 μg m−3) were higher than coarse aerosols (Dp > 2.5 μm: 4.1 μg m−3). Carbonaceous matter, estimated as the sum of the particulate organic matter (i.e., OC×1.8) plus BCe, comprised more than 90% to the total aerosol mass. Concentrations of ECa (estimated by thermal analysis with a correction for charring) and BCe (estimated by LTM) averaged 5.2±1.3 and 3.1±0.8 μg m−3, respectively. The determination of EC was improved by extracting water soluble organic material from the samples, which reduced the average light absorption Ångström exponent of particles in the size range of 0.1 to 1.0 μm from being greater than 2.0 to approximately 1.2. The size-resolved BCe measured by the LTM showed a clear maximum between 0.4 to 0.6 μm in diameter. The concentrations of OC and BCe varied diurnally during the dry period, and this variation is related to diurnal changes in boundary layer thickness and in fire frequency.

Objective: This systematic review and meta-analysis of published randomized controlled trials examines a possible relationship between optical spot size at surface tissue, irradiance, radiant exposure, total energy delivered, operator technique and reported clinical outcomes. Background: Clinical photobiomodulation (PBM) therapy has achieved a high level of evidence-based acceptance in the mitigation of oral mucositis associated with cancer radiotherapy and chemotherapy, and supportive clinical research in relation to orthodontic tooth movement, oral medical conditions, including burning mouth syndrome, xerostomia and lichen planus. Inconsistent outcomes have been reported not withstanding a substantial body of primary supportive research from clinical, in vitro and animal studies. Materials and Methods: PubMed, Cochrane Database of Reviews and Google Scholar search engines were applied to identify human clinical trials of PBM therapy in clinical dentistry. A total of 766 articles between February 2009 and June 2020 were identified and following a full text evaluation, 38 papers with sufficient data to permit analyses are included in this investigation. Results: Following a detailed assessment of potential factors that may have an influence in clinical outcome, a clear trend is apparent associating optical spot size to a positive or negative effect. Furthermore, there is a clear difference in the reported results in relation to total energy applied, delivery techniques and optical parameters, which merits further investigation. Factorial statistical analyses identified an association between smaller optical surface applications and an overall lower level of reported clinical success in treating superficial and deeper targets, and correspondingly sub-surface larger target tissues were found to be more responsive to therapy by use of a larger optical surface spot size. Moreover, use of multiple small diameter probe applications was found to provide inconsistent results. Conclusions: Many factors can confound clinical success including variations in anatomy, site location, clinical condition and subject individuality. To achieve higher levels of predictable outcome, a mature appreciation of these factors, plus an expanded understanding of laser parametry, tissue volume and target depth to deliver an adequate dose within current recommended guidelines, is essential.

Abstract. Aerosol samples were collected at a pasture site in the Amazon Basin as part of the project LBA-SMOCC-2002 (Large-Scale Biosphere-Atmosphere Experiment in Amazonia – Smoke Aerosols, Clouds, Rainfall and Climate: Aerosols from Biomass Burning Perturb Global and Regional Climate). Sampling was conducted during the late dry season, when the aerosol composition was dominated by biomass burning emissions, especially in the submicron fraction. A 13-stage Dekati low-pressure impactor (DLPI) was used to collect particles with nominal aerodynamic diameters (Dp) ranging from 0.03 to 0.10 μm. Gravimetric analyses of the DLPI substrates and filters were performed to obtain aerosol mass concentrations. The concentrations of total, apparent elemental, and organic carbon (TC, ECa, and OC) were determined using thermal and thermal-optical analysis (TOA) methods. A light transmission method (LTM) was used to determine the concentration of equivalent black carbon (BCe) or the absorbing fraction at 880 nm for the size-resolved samples. During the dry period, due to the pervasive presence of fires in the region upwind of the sampling site, concentrations of fine aerosols (Dp<2.5 μm: average 59.8 μg m−3) were higher than coarse aerosols (Dp> 2.5 μm: 4.1 μg m−3). Carbonaceous matter, estimated as the sum of the particulate organic matter (i.e., OC × 1.8) plus BCe, comprised more than 90% to the total aerosol mass. Concentrations of ECa (estimated by thermal analysis with a correction for charring) and BCe (estimated by LTM) averaged 5.2 ± 1.3 and 3.1 ± 0.8 μg m−3, respectively. The determination of EC was improved by extracting water-soluble organic material from the samples, which reduced the average light absorption Ångström exponent of particles in the size range of 0.1 to 1.0 μm from >2.0 to approximately 1.2. The size-resolved BCe measured by the LTM showed a clear maximum between 0.4 and 0.6 μm in diameter. The concentrations of OC and BCe varied diurnally during the dry period, and this variation is related to diurnal changes in boundary layer thickness and in fire frequency.

ABSTRACTChanges in the pattern of food intake, food conversion efficiency and growth from weaning to maturity, were examined in 35 rams and ewes from flocks of Merino sheep selected for high (weight-plus) and low (weight-minus) weaning weight and from a randomly bred control flock. The sheep were individually fed a pelleted ration ad libitum for at least 72 weeks and up to 90 weeks post weaning. Weekly food intake was described as an increasing exponential function of age with a linearly declining asymptote, about which a regular oscillation occurred, and weekly body-weight gain was described as an increasing exponential function of weekly food intake, about which a regular oscillation also occurred.The oscillations in weekly food intake had a period of about 52 weeks and appeared to be largely associated with seasonal variations in temperature, with an increased food intake during winter and a decreased food intake during summer. The oscillations in both the food-intake and body-weight functions were of similar phase and period and it was suggested that the body-weight oscillations were due to variation in gut-fill, a result of the seasonal oscillations in food intake.Selection for weaning weight changed the shape and magnitude of the food-intake curve, with the weight-plus having a greater rate of food intake (i.e. appetite) in the early stages of growth and a greater asymptote than the weight-minus animals. Selection for high and low weaning weight also resulted in an increase and a decrease in mature weight. Both strains had a similar growth efficiency, although when calculated as gross food conversion efficiency the weight-plus were higher than the weight-minus animals at the same body weight, whereas there was no difference between strains at the same age.The rams had both a higher asymptote and a slower rate of decline in food intake than the ewes. Rams had a higher mature weight than the ewes, although ewes had a slightly greater growth efficiency. However, when calculated as gross food conversion efficiency, ewes tended to be lower than rams, when compared either at the same age, or at the same body weight.When the food-intake curves were standardized for differences in mature size, strain differences in the magnitude of the food-intake curves were reduced, although differences in the shape were still apparent. Shape differences in the food-intake curves were reflected in the shape of the standardized growth curves, with the weight-plus maturing at a faster rate than the weight-minus animals. There was little difference between the sexes in the initial shape of the food-intake curve, although at later ages ewes had a lower food intake than rams. There was little difference between the sexes in the shape of the standardized growth curves.

ABSTRACT Murine cytomegalovirus (MCMV) is widely used to model human cytomegalovirus (HCMV) infection. However, it is known that serially passaged laboratory strains of HCMV differ significantly from recently isolated clinical strains of HCMV. It is therefore axiomatic that clinical models of HCMV using serially passaged strains of MCMV may not be able to fully represent the complexities of the system they are attempting to model and may not fully represent the complex biology of MCMV. To determine whether genotypic and phenotypic differences also exist between laboratory strains of MCMV and wild derived strains of MCMV, we sequenced the genomes of three low-passage strains of MCMV, plus the laboratory strain, K181. We coupled this genetic characterization to their phenotypic characteristics. In contrast to what is seen with HCMV (and rhesus CMV), there were no major genomic rearrangements in the MCMV genomes. In addition, the genome size was remarkably conserved between MCMV strains with no major insertions or deletions. There was, however, significant sequence variation between strains of MCMV, particularly at the genomic termini. These more subtle genetic differences led to considerable differences in in vivo replication with some strains of MCMV, such as WP15B, replicating preferentially in otherwise-MCMV-resistant C57BL/6 mice. CBA mice were no more resistant to MCMV than C57BL/6 mice and for some MCMV strains appeared to control infection less well than C57BL/6 mice. It is apparent that the previously described host resistance patterns of inbred mice and MCMV are not consistently applicable for all MCMV strains.

ABSTRACT Human MCF-7 breast cancer cells have been studied to determine their suitability as an autocrine model for the synthesis, secretion and action of insulin-like growth factor-I (IGF-I). Secretion of immunoreactive (ir-) IGF-I into serum-free medium was very low (<500 pg/106 cells per day). Northern blot hybridization detected at least two IGF-I messenger RNA transcripts (∼4·6 and ∼1·8 kb) which were similar in size to those reported in other human and rat tissues. IGF-II mRNA was also detected but at low abundance. Cell proliferation was stimulated in a dose-responsive manner by exogenous IGF-I (10–30 ng/ml). Addition of a monoclonal antibody against IGF-I to MCF-7 cells in serum-free medium caused an inhibition of cell proliferation, suggesting that endogenous locally produced IGF-I does play an autocrine/paracrine role in MCF-7 cell growth. Proliferation of MCF-7 cells was sensitive to oestradiol (10 nm) in the absence but not in the presence of the weakly oestrogenic pH indicator phenol red. Neither IGF-I secretion nor IGF-I mRNA synthesis, however, was affected by addition of oestradiol. Similarly, GH, dexamethasone or dexamethasone plus oestradiol had no effect on either parameter. These data indicate that MCF-7 cells synthesize, secrete and respond to IGF-I. The very low levels of ir-IGF-I produced and their apparent lack of hormonal modulation suggest, however, that further studies are required to establish whether IGF-I plays a major physiological role in growth and development of MCF-7 cells.

Lactating Holstein cows fitted with ruminal and duodenal T-type cannulae were used in two studies to determine the effect of forage: concentrate ratio and forage particle size on site of nutrient digestion and microbial protein synthesis. In exp. 1, cows were fed alfalfa hay at 24, 38, 58 and 80% of total dry matter intake. Organic matter (OM) digestion in the total tract (OMD) increased with increasing concentrate level but apparent ruminal OM digestion (AROMD) was unaffected by diet. Digestion of acid detergent fiber (ADF) was similar among the higher forage diets, but was depressed at the 24% forage level. Efficiency of microbial protein synthesis (MPS) was depressed by high concentrate diets and was positively correlated (P < 0.05) to turnover rate within the rumen. In exp. 2, cows were fed 20% concentrate and 80% alfalfa hay in long, chopped or ground and pelleted form. AROMD was lower with ground hay but OMD was unaffected by diet. Digestibility of ADF in the rumen was lower with ground hay, but was partially compensated for by increased hindgut digestion of ADF. Flow of feed plus endogenous nitrogen (N) at the duodenum was 37% and 47% on N intake with long and ground hay, respectively. Efficiency of MPS increased 15% and postruminal N digestion increased 36% when ground hay replaced long hay. Efficiency of MPS was directly related to ruminal solids turnover rate and inversely related to liquid dilution rate. These results demonstrate improvements in efficiency of MPS with either increasing amounts of forage in the diet or increased ruminal passage of solids. Key words: Digestion, microbial protein, rate of passage, cattle, rumen forage

Este estudo objetivou determinar as propriedades físicas, químicas e energéticas de pellets de biomassa residual de Pinus spp. produzidos em Santa Catarina, e realizar a comparação com os parâmetros estabelecidos pelas normas internacionais existentes. Foram coletadas nove amostras, onde foram determinadas as propriedades de: dimensões dos pellets, densidade aparente e da unidade, teor de umidade, análise imediata, poder calorífico, durabilidade mecânica e teor de finos. Comparativamente à literatura e aos parâmetros de qualidade das normas: os pellets apresentaram densidade aparente (663,46 kg/m³), densidade da unidade (1711 kg / m³), durabilidade mecânica (99,07%) e poder calorífico superior (20,21 MJ / kg) altos; teor de umidade (7,89%) e de cinzas (0,38%) baixos, indicando boa qualidade dos pellets. Os pellets apresentaram alto teor de finos (1,05%), como característica negativa. Tiveram diâmetro de 6,58 mm; comprimento de 17,31 mm; teor de materiais voláteis de 81,29% e carbono fixo de 18,33%. Os valores médios das propriedades dos pellets atenderam plenamente as normas alemã (DIN Plus) e austríaca (Önorm M7135) e as classes G2 e G3 da suéca (SS 187120), e as classes I1, I2 e I3 da ISO (17225-2), podendo ser usados no setor de serviços e indústrias.AbstractQuality of forest biomass pellets produced in State of Santa Catarina for power generation. This study aimed to determine the physical, chemical and energetic properties of pellets of residual forest biomass of Pinus spp. production chain from the state of Santa Catarina, and compare them to the parameters set by existing international standards. Nine samples were collected, in which the properties were determined: size of pellets; bulk density and unity density; moisture content; immediate analysis; calorific value; mechanical durability and fines content. Compared to literature and quality standards parameters: the pellets showed high apparent density (663.46 kg / m³), unit density (1711 kg / m³), mechanical durability (99.07%) and gross calorific value (20.21 MJ / kg); low moisture content (7.89%) and ash (0.38%), indicating good quality pellets. The pellets had a high fines content (1.05%), as a negative characteristic. They had diameter of 6.58 mm; length 17.31 mm; volatiles content of 81.29% and 18.33% fixed carbon. The average values of properties of the pellets fully met the German standards (DIN Plus) and Austria (ÖNORM M7135) and G2 and G3 classes of Swedish (SS 187 120), and the classes I1, I2 and I3 ISO (17225-2), and can be used in the service and industry sectors.Keywords: Pinus waste; densified; pellet quality standards.

AbstractThe effect of intake level during the milk-feeding period and dietary protein content during the post-weaning period on performance, weight of components of the digestive tract and carcass and non-carcass chemical composition was investigated in 28 Churra lambs. A 2 × 2 factorial design was used with two intake levels during the milk-feeding period (Lmilk: 0·9 and Hmilk: 1·5 MJ gross energy per kg M0·75 daily) and two concentrate supplements (Lprotein:barley grain and Hprotein: barley grain plus 200 g/kg fish meal) during the post-weaningperiod. After selecting an initial slaughter group of four 2-day-old lambs, 12 lambs were assigned randomly to each of two intake levels during a 4-week milk-feeding period and given food individually. Four lambs from each intake level were slaughtered at weaning (30 days old) and the remaining 16 were weaned between 30 and 49 days old (weaning period). Eight lambs from each nutritional regimen during the milk-feeding period were further divided into two equal groups and given food individually ad libitum with hay and the post-weaning concentrate, according to the experimental design until thefinal slaughter weight (20 kg) (post-weaning period). Lmitk lambs showed a capacity to grow as well as the Hmilk during the weaning and post-weaning period and there were no differences (P > 0·05) in dry-matter intake and food conversion ratio among treatments. Before weaning, the weight of the reticulo-rumen was not affected by the intake level during the milk-feeding period. The most affected component of the gastrointestinal tract was the small intestine as proportion of the digestive tract which was lower in Lmilk lambs (P < 0·05). At 20 kg live weight, the relative size of the reticulo-rumen was greater (P < 0·01) and the abomasum (P < 0·05) and large intestine (P < 0·01) were smaller in lambs which were given the Hprotein concentrate after weaning. The organic matter apparent digestibility (OMD, P < 0·05) and crude protein apparent digestibility (CPD, P < 0·05) of the post-weaning diets was greater in Lmilk lambs and the Hprotein post-weaning diet was associated with a greater dry-matter apparent digestibility, OMD and CPD when lambs were close to final slaughter weight. At 20 kg live weight, the proportion of protein in the carcass of Lmilk lambs was greater (P < 0·05) than in Hmilk lambs. The greater growth of the reticulo-rumen of the Lmilk lambs might have increased solid food intake after the milk-feeding period, led to greater CPD of post-weaning diets and had consequences in terms of carcass composition.

Introduction: High-frequency jet ventilation (HFJV) during shockwave lithotripsy (SWL) has been reported using older lithotripsyunits with larger focal zones. We investigated how HFJV affectsthe clinical parameters of SWL using a newer lithotripsy unit witha smaller focal zone.Methods: We reviewed all patients who underwent SWL by asingle surgeon (KVA) from July 2006 until December 2007 withthe Siemens Lithostar Modularis (Siemens AG, Erlangen, Germany).Either HFJV or conventional anesthetic techniques were usedbased on the anesthesiologists’ preference. Preoperative imagingwas reviewed for stone size, number and location. Total operatingroom time, procedure time, number of shocks and total energydelivery were analyzed. Postoperative imaging was reviewed forstone-free rates.Results: A total of 112 patients underwent SWL with 80 undergoingconventional anesthesia, and 32 with HFJV. Age, body mass index,preoperative stone size and number were not significantly differentbetween the groups. The HFJV group required significantly lesstotal shocks (3358 vs. 3754, p = 0.0015) and total energy (115.8joules vs. 137.2 joules, p = 0.0015). Total operating room time,SWL procedure time and postoperative stone-free rates were notsignificantly different.Conclusions: Previous studies using older SWL units with largerfocal zones have demonstrated that HFJV can be effective in reducingtotal shocks and total energy. Our data is consistent with thesestudies, but also shows benefit with newer units that have narrowerfocal zones.Introduction : Le recours au jet-ventilation à haute fréquence(JVHF) pendant une lithotritie par ondes de choc (LOC) a étésignalé lors d’emploi d’anciens appareils de lithotritie à zonesfocales larges. Nous avons examiné comment le JVHF influe surles paramètres cliniques de la LOC lors de l’emploi d’un nouvelappareil de lithotritie avec zones focales étroites.Méthodologie : Nous avons passé en revue le dossier de tous lespatients qui ont subi une LOC réalisée par le même chirurgien(KVA) entre juillet 2006 et décembre 2007 à l’aide du LithostarModularis de Siemens (Siemens S.A., Erlangen, Allemagne). LeJVHF ou une technique classique d’anesthésie ont été utilisés,selon la préférence des anesthésistes. Les images obtenues avantl’intervention ont été analysées afin de déterminer la taille, lenombre et l’emplacement des calculs. Le temps total en salled’opération, la durée de l’intervention, le nombre d’ondes dechoc et la quantité totale d’énergie émise ont été analysés. Letaux d’absence de calculs après l’intervention a été obtenu à l’aided’images prises après l’intervention.Résultats : Au total, 112 patients ont subi une LOC; de ce nombre,80 ont reçu une anesthésie classique, et 32, une anesthésie parJVHF. L’âge, l’indice de masse corporelle, la taille et le nombredes calculs avant l’intervention n’étaient pas significativement différentsd’un groupe à l’autre. Le groupe sous JVHF a requis unnombre total significativement inférieur d’ondes de choc (3358contre 3754, p = 0,0015) et une quantité significativement moindred’énergie (115,8 joules contre 137,2 joules, p = 0,0015). Letemps total en salle d’opération, la durée de l’intervention et letaux d’absence de calculs après l’intervention étaient sensiblementles mêmes dans les deux groupes.Conclusions : Des études antérieures utilisant des appareils plusanciens de LOC avec des zones focales larges ont montré que leJVHF peut être efficace pour réduire le nombre total d’ondes dechoc et la quantité totale d’énergie requise. Les données de notreétude concordent avec celles de ces études, mais montrent aussiles avantages de recourir à des zones focales plus étroites.

Abstract Abstract 4384 Epstein–Barr virus-associated T lymphoproliferative disease (EBV+ T-LPD, non-immunocompromised hosts) is rare on adults. Normally it is only found on children. This disease, according to recent pathological categorization, can be categorized into following subtypes: (i) category A1, polymorphic LPD without clonal proliferation of EBV-infected cells; (ii) category A2, polymorphic LPD with clonality; (iii) category A3, monomorphic LPD (T-cell or NK cell lymphoma/leukemia) with clonality; and (iv) category B, monomorphic LPD (T-cell lymphoma) with clonality and fulminant clinical course; Clinical symptoms of systemic EBV+ T-LPD include fever, liver, spleen and lymph nodes enlargement, jaundice of bile stasis, liver failure, pancytopenia. Based on degree of pathological changes, there are three groups of EBV+ T-LPD: I) polyclonal II) oligoclonal III) monoclonal (neoplasm). EBER, CD2 and are all positive. Usually drugs for treatment of EBV+ T-LPD include Glucocorticoid, CiclosporinA, and Etoposide. An adult patient of systemic EBV+ T-LPD (non-immunocompromised hosts) (neoplasm) had been diagnosis and treatment recently by us. The patient is a 46-years-old male, fever, abdominal pain, hypocytosis and lymph nodes enlargement, 2 weeks of jaundice, vomiting and nausea. Physical examination: T: 37–39°C; marasmus, sclera and jaundice, upper left clavicle lymph node enlargement, apparent abdominal distention, upper abdominal pain, severe spleen enlargement. Blood Routine WBC 1.88×109/L; HB 87g/L; PLT 1.7×109/L. SGPT 163 U/L, SGOT 179μmol/L, STB 309μmol/L, CB 178μmol/L, STP43.8 g/L, ALB27.1 g/L, LDH905U /L. KPTT, PT, TT prolonged by a little. No abnormal cells were found in Bone Marrow examination. CT: 1. multiple enlarged lymph nodes were found in upper left clavicle area, inside mediastinum, and at right hilus of lung (diameter up to 1.4cm, with some nodes fusing together). 2. Pleural effusion in both thoraxes. 3. Severe spleen enlargement with several low-concentration nodes found inside. 4. Multiple enlarged lymph nodes found inside abdominal cavity and behind peritoneum. Pathological examination (upper left clavicle lymph node): lymph node normal structure disappears; many heteromorphic lymph-like cells were found, clear nucleus abnormality; Immunophenotype: CD3 +(mostly positive); CD5+(Partially positive); CD7+ (minor positive); CD4,CD8: a few cells positive;. EBER are positive. Pathological diagnosis: Epstein–Barr virus-associated T lymphoproliferative disease, EBV+ T-LPD, (III group, neoplasm stage) Treatment: adult patient was treated by many drugs including liver-protection, antibiotics, G –CSF and others. Because many symptoms such as abdominal pain, jaundice and high fever aggravated, plus severe liver and respiratory failure, the patient was infused DXM 10mg/d1-7. After treatment of DXM, many symptoms of the patient mitigated. Then the patient was treated by ECVP (Etoposide 0.1/D1 ~ D4, CTX 0.6/d1, VCR 2mg/D1, D8, Methylprednisolone 160mg/D1 ~ D7,) plus G-CSF (150 ~ 400mg/D). The minimum of WBC was 0.07 ×109/L. During treatment the patient suffered from pneumonia, therefore antibiotics were used. After treating, the temperature of patient returned and stayed normal; abdominal pain, jaundice, and vomiting symptoms alleviated, and eventually disappeared; spleen size was reduced. Among all enlarged superficial lymph nodes and enlarged lymph nodes inside the mediastinum, inside the abdominal cavity, and behind peritoneum, some reduced sizes and some eventually returned to normal sizes. Pleural effusion disappeared. Liver function: SGPT, SGOT and bilirubin index returned to normal. Coagulation function returned to normal. The patient has now finished treatment in hospital and is currently home, waiting for next cycle of treatment. This case of adult patient of systemic EBV+ T-LPD(non-immunocompromised hosts) (neoplasm) indicate that the treated method of ECVP plus G-csf is safe and effective in adult patient of systemic EBV+ T-LPD (neoplasm); no significant toxicity was found during treatment; the early diagnosis and early treatment of adult EBV+ T-LPD is very important. Further study and clinical research on more effective method of treatment on adult EBV+ T-LPD is still desired. Disclosures: No relevant conflicts of interest to declare.

548 Background: There is an unmet need to identify women diagnosed with DCIS with elevated risk after standard treatment for whom enhanced treatment strategies should be considered. A response type (RSt) signature has been assessed in women treated with breast conserving surgery (BCS) with or without radiotherapy (RT), or with mastectomy. Methods: Women diagnosed with pure DCIS and treated with BCS or, BCS with whole breast RT were consecutively collected in Sweden, 1986-2004 and the USA, 1999-2008. A third cohort treated with mastectomy was collected in Sweden from 1986-2004. Patients with FFPE tissue were included unless they had prior or simultaneous invasive breast cancer (IBC). The RSt and DCISionRT biosignatures were calculated using biomarkers (p16/INK4A, Ki-67, COX-2, PgR, HER2, FOXA1, SIAH2), scored by board certified pathologists. Pathology and clinical data were collected from medical records. Only women at elevated risk by DCISionRT (DS > 3) and negative margins were included in analysis. Total breast event risk included either ipsilateral DCIS or IBC. Multivariate Cox proportional hazards and survival analysis were used to assess cumulative incidence risk differences, hazard ratios, and 10-year risks adjusted for year of diagnosis. Results: Women with a poor RSt were all HER2 positive and remained at particularly elevated risk after BCS and RT (23% 10-yr risk, p < 0.0001, Table), with a risk profile similar to women treated with BCS without RT (RSt not evaluated). The distribution of age and size were not statistically different for good versus poor RSt, but poor RSt were more commonly Grade 3. In a small cohort of women treated with mastectomy, those women with a poor RSt were still at elevated risk after surgery, comparered to women with a good RSt (HR = 5.4, p = 0.014). The 10-year risk profile for women with a good RSt treated with BCS plus RT or mastectomy, was low (table). Conclusions: A novel biosignature identified women with a good and poor RSt, where the good RSt identified women with an apparent substantial benefit from RT, as well as women with a poor RSt who remained at particularly elevated risk after RT, and for whom enhanced treatment strategies should be considered. Additional validation studies are ongoing. [Table: see text]

Abstract. Peatlands extend over vast areas of the northern landscape. Within some of these areas, lakes and ponds are changing in size as a result of permafrost thawing and erosion, resulting in mobilization of the carbon-rich peatland soils. Our aims in the present study were to characterize the particle, carbon and nutrient regime of a set of thermokarst (thaw) lakes and their adjacent peatland permafrost soils in a rapidly degrading landscape in subarctic Québec, Canada, and by way of fluorescence microscopy, flow cytometry, production measurements and an in situ enrichment experiment, determine the bacterial characteristics of these waters relative to other thaw lakes and rock-basin lakes in the region. The soil active layer in a degrading palsa (peatland permafrost mound) adjacent to one of the lakes contained an elevated carbon content (51 % of dry weight), high C : N ratios (17 : 1 by mass), and large stocks of other elements including N (3 % of dry weight), Fe (0.6 %), S (0.5 %), Ca (0.5 %) and P (0.05 %). Two permafrost cores were obtained to a depth of 2.77 m in the palsa, and computerized tomography scans of the cores confirmed that they contained high concentrations (> 80 %) of ice. Upon thawing, the cores released nitrate and dissolved organic carbon (from all core depths sampled), and soluble reactive phosphorus (from bottom depths), at concentrations well above those in the adjacent lake waters. The active layer soil showed a range of particle sizes with a peak at 229 µm, and this was similar to the distribution of particles in the upper permafrost cores. The particle spectrum for the lake water overlapped with those for the soil, but extended to larger (surface water) or finer (bottom water) particles. On average, more than 50 % of the bacterial cells and bacterial production was associated with particles > 3 µm. This relatively low contribution of free-living cells (operationally defined as the < 1 µm fraction) to bacterial production was a general feature of all of the northern lakes sampled, including other thaw lakes and shallow rock-basin lakes (average ± SE of 25 ± 6 %). However, a distinguishing feature of the peatland thaw lakes was significantly higher bacterial specific growth rates, which averaged 4 to 7 times higher values than in the other lake types. The in situ enrichment experiment showed no difference between organic carbon or phosphorus enrichment treatments at day 5 relative to the control, however there was an apparent increase in bacterial growth rates between days 1 and 5 in the soil and the carbon plus phosphorus enrichments. Collectively these results indicate that particles, nutrients and carbon are released by degrading permafrost peatland soils into their associated thermokarst lakes, creating favorable conditions for production by particle-based as well as free-living aquatic bacterial communities. The reduced bacterial concentrations despite high cellular growth rates imply that there is control of their population size by loss-related factors such as grazing and viral lysis.

The anterior pituitary is active mitotically and apoptotically under basal conditions and in response to a variety of physiological and pathophysiological stimuli. Hypothyroidism in man is associated with a modest but very occasionally dramatic increase in overall pituitary size. The mechanisms underlying this reversible phenomenon remain obscure. In the present study we have examined young adult rat anterior pituitary following surgical thyroidectomy and subsequent thyroid hormone treatment and withdrawal using an extremely accurate system for quantifying directly identified mitotic and apoptotic events. Despite the expected increase in the number and/or proportion of immunohistochemically identifiable thyrotrophs three weeks after thyroidectomy, mitotic and apoptotic activity remained unchanged, as did pituitary wet weight, in comparison with sham-operated and intact controls. In contrast, mitotic but not apoptotic activity was enhanced by treatment of thyroidectomized animals with thyroid hormones (triiodothyronine (T3) and thyroxine (T4) 1.8 microg and 3.6 microg/100 g body weight per day respectively), and once again declined to levels seen in intact animals within 72 h of subsequent thyroid hormone withdrawal. Thyroid hormone-induced enhancement of mitotic activity was also seen in intact rats treated with similar doses of thyroid hormones for 7 days and in thyroidectomized rats treated for a similar period with very low dose thyroid hormone replacement at a level that had no effect on raised hypothalamic TRH- or pituitary TSHbeta-transcript prevalence (0.018 microg T3 plus 0.036 microg T4/100 g body weight per day). Thus changes in mitotic and apoptotic activity are unlikely to be the principle mechanism for the apparent increase in thyrotrophs up to 4 weeks after thyroidectomy. In contrast, the data indicate that thyroid hormones have a permissive effect on anterior pituitary mitotic activity in thyroidectomized male rats. Thyroid hormone-induced enhancement of mitotic activity in intact rats further suggests that in euthyroid rats, ambient thyroid hormone levels are a limiting factor for anterior pituitary mitotic activity. In summary, this time course study of young, male rats has shown for the first time that thyroidectomy, thyroid hormone replacement and subsequent withdrawal has no significant effect on anterior pituitary apoptotic activity. Secondly, it has shown that the anterior pituitary mitotic response to thyroidectomy is blocked by complete thyroid hormone deprivation, but can be restored by very low level thyroid hormone replacement, and thirdly that in intact animals thyroid hormone levels significantly limit anterior pituitary mitotic activity.

Abstract In the present study we characterized in detail the expression of aromatase P450 in leiomyomas to determine the role of in situ estrogen in the growth advantage of leiomyomas. The levels of aromatase P450 transcripts were determined by quantitative RT-PCR to be significantly higher in leiomyomas than in corresponding myometrium. The overexpression of aromatase P450 in leiomyomas was also confirmed by Western blot analysis. The estimated size of immunoreactive aromatase was 58 kDa, similar to that in placenta. To identify a cell type that express aromatase P450 in leiomyomas, histological specimens were stained for aromatase P450 using a polyclonal antibody. Strong immunoreactivity was detected in the cytoplasm of leiomyoma cells, whereas surrounding normal myometrium displayed weak or negative staining. Smooth muscle-like cells in culture obtained from leiomyomas, positive for actin D fiber, possessed immunoreactive granules of aromatase in the cytoplasm. Conversion of androgen to estrogen was effectively stimulated by phorbol myristate acetate and dexamethasone plus interleukin-1β and was completely abolished by selective inhibitors of aromatase P450 (fadrozole and TZA-2209), but not by inhibitors of 5α-reductase (finasteride and flutamide). The apparent Km of androstenedione was 3 nm in the presence of dexamethasone and interleukin-1β, corresponding to the plasma concentration of androstenedione in women of reproductive age. To determine whether endogenous aromatase P450 plays a role in the growth promotion of leiomyoma cells, we evaluated the cell growth of smooth muscle-like cells treated with various concentrations of estrogen and androgen using a WST-1 assay. Treatment with testosterone (10−8 and 10−7m) and androstenedione (10−8 and 10−7m) stimulated the growth of smooth muscle-like cells obtained from leiomyomas to the same extent as estradiol (10−10–10−7m), whereas dihydrotestosterone (10−11–10−8m) did not. The stimulatory effect of testosterone on cell growth was again abolished by cotreatment with fadrozole. The level of estradiol in the medium of testosterone (10−8m)-treated smooth muscle-like cells was 10−11m, which was 1 order lower than the minimum concentration of estradiol necessary to promote cell growth (10−10m). This indicates that estradiol synthesized in leiomyomas promotes their growth via an autocrine/intracrine mechanism. We conclude that myometrial cells of leiomyomas overexpress aromatase P450 and are able to synthesize sufficient estrogen to accelerate their own cell growth. Overexpression of aromatase P450 may play a role in the growth advantage of leiomyoma tissue over surrounding myometrium via an autocrine/intracrine mechanism.

Abstract Introduction: DLBCL is the most common subtype of non-Hodgkin lymphoma. R-CHOP (rituximab plus cyclophosphamide, doxorubicin, vincristine and prednisone) is established as the standard of care for patients (pts) with previously untreated DLBCL, but ~40% of pts will eventually relapse. For relapsed/refractory pts who are ineligible for transplant, clinical guidelines propose a broad spectrum of therapeutic options. However, little is known about treatment patterns and outcomes associated with 2L therapy in routine practice, particularly for pts less suitable for intensive therapy. Therefore, using real-world data, we evaluated 2L treatment patterns in DLBCL pts and overall survival (OS) in those pts who received 2L R-Benda or R-GemOx. We focused on these 2 treatments as they are typically used in the non-transplant setting in pts less suitable for aggressive therapy, and can typically be administered in an outpatient setting. Methods: DLBCL pts receiving care from the US Veterans Health Administration were identified through their electronic medical records and raw oncology domain. Pts diagnosed with DLBCL (and no prior other types of malignancies) between 2004-2016, with ≥1-month follow-up and who received 2L treatment were included. OS (defined as time from the start of 2L therapy until death) was analyzed in pts who received 2L R-Benda or R-GemOx using the Kaplan-Meier method. Surviving pts were censored at data cutoff (December 31, 2017). Univariate and multivariate Cox regression analyses were undertaken to assess the impact of 2L treatment (in particular, R-GemOx vs R-Benda) on OS. Results: A total of 2600 DLBCL pts were identified: 2039 received 1L and 702 received 1L and 2L therapy. Among the 702 pts treated with 2L therapy, regimens included R-ICE (n=77; 11.0%), R-CHOP (n=75; 10.7%), rituximab monotherapy (n=34; 4.8%), R-Benda (n=32; 4.6%), methotrexate (n=24; 3.4%), R-ESHAP (n=23; 3.3%), R-DHAP/R-EPOCH/R-GDP (n=18; 2.6%), rituximab plus cyclophosphamide-doxorubicin-vinblastine-vincristine (n=14; 2.0%), R-CVP (n=11; 1.6%), rituximab plus cyclophosphamide-etoposide-vincristine (n=11; 1.6%), and R-GemOx (n=10; 1.4%). Of the remaining pts, 267 (38.0%) received regimens with agent(s) included in the NCCN guidelines, while 106 (15.1%) received regimens with at least 1 agent not guideline-recommended. Baseline characteristics for pts treated with 2L R-Benda (n=32) or R-GemOx (n=10) are shown in Table 1. There was an imbalance between the 2 cohorts with regard to race, number of involved lymph nodes, B symptoms, Charlson Comorbidity Index score, and abnormal lactate dehydrogenase results. After 24 deaths in the R-Benda cohort and 7 deaths in the R-GemOx cohort, median OS was estimated at 11 and 13 months, respectively (Figure 1). Median follow-up time after start of 2L treatment was 11.3 and 11.7 months, respectively. The Kaplan-Meier curves of the 2 cohorts overlapped at multiple timepoints during follow-up. Respective 1-year OS rates (95% confidence interval [CI]) with R-Benda and R-GemOx were 50.0% (31.9%, 65.7%) and 60.0% (25.3%, 82.7%). Compared with R-Benda, R-GemOx did not significantly predict longer OS in either the univariate (hazard ratio [HR]: 0.94; 95% CI: 0.41, 2.19; p=0.893) or multivariate (HR: 1.07; 95% CI: 0.46, 2.50; p=0.873) analyses. Conclusions: This real-world study highlights the diversity of 2L treatment regimens used in DLBCL pts. There was no apparent difference in OS between R-Benda- and R-GemOx-treated pts and, with a median OS of approximately 1 year after 2L initiation with either regimen, there is clearly an unmet need in this setting. The main limitation of the study relates to the small sample size of each treatment cohort. Further research using other real-world data sources is warranted. Disclosures Ionescu-Ittu: Analysis Group, Inc.: Employment; F. Hoffman-La Roche Ltd: Consultancy, Other: I am an employee of Analysis Group, Inc., which received consulting fees from Roche for the conduct of this study. Shang:F. Hoffmann-La Roche Ltd.: Employment, Other: Ownership interests non-PLC. Guérin:F. Hoffman-La Roche Ltd: Other: I am an employee of Analysis Group, Inc., which received consulting fees from Roche for the conduct of this study; Analysis Group, Inc.: Employment. Shi:F. Hoffman-La Roche Ltd: Research Funding; Bravo4Health: Other: Ownership interests non-PLC; Genentech: Research Funding; Chiasma: Research Funding; Intuitive Surgical: Consultancy. Shi:F. Hoffman-La Roche Ltd: Other: I am an employee of Analysis Group, Inc., which received consulting fees from Roche for the conduct of this study; Analysis Group, Inc.: Employment. Qayum:F. Hoffmann-La Roche Ltd: Employment.

The study was carried out to evaluate the biopotency of antioxidant supplements on physiological, testicular and oxidative biomarkers in adult male guinea pigs (Cavia porcellus). A total of 60 adult male guinea pigs of three months of age with an average body weight of 500±20g were randomly allocated into three dietary treatment groups of vitamin C, vitamin E and selenium and each comprised four varying levels with five animals per group in a completely randomized design (CRD). Feed and water were provided ad-libitum. The testicular morphology showed a significant (P<0.05) difference in weight of right testis, weight of left testis, paired testis weight, right testis width, testis volume, testis density, right testis length and left testis length of guinea pig supplemented varying dosage of vitamin C, E and Selenium. microphotograph indicated considerable changes in seminiferous tubules density, size, and other morphological characteristics, also intertubular space, basement membrane, leydigs cells and spermatogonia of the guinea pigs supplemented varying dosage of vitamin C, E and Selenium revealed considerable changes. The supplementation of adult male guinea pigs diets with 200 mg vitamin C had the highest values of testicular morphometric followed by 15 mg vitamin E group and 0.3 mg of selenium. Similarly, considerable histo-architectural changes in seminiferous tubules and interstitial cells size and shape occurred in guinea pigs supplemented 200, 15 and 0.3 mg per kg diet vitamin C, E and selenium respectively. Therefore, supplementation of vitamin C, E and Selenium has a profound effect on testicular histo-morphology of adult male guinea pigs. L'étude a été réalisée pour évaluer la biopotence des suppléments antioxydants sur les biomarqueurs physiologiques, testiculaires et oxydatifs chez les cobayes mâles adultes (Caviaporcellus). Un total de 60 cobayes mâles adultes de trois mois avec un poids corporel moyen de 500 ± 20 g ont été répartis au hasard dans trois groupes de traitement diététique de vitamine C, vitamine E et sélénium et chacun comprenait quatre niveaux variables avec cinq animaux par groupe en une conception complètement aléatoire. L'alimentation et l'eau étaient fournies ad libitum. La morphologie testiculaire a montré une différence significative (P <0.05) du poids du testicule droit, du poids du testicule gauche, du poids du testicule apparié, de la largeur du testicule droit, du volume du testicule, de la densité du testicule, de la longueur du testicule droit et de la longueur du testicule gauche du cobaye supplémenté en doses variables de vitamine C, E et sélénium. La microphotographie a indiqué des changements considérables dans la densité, la taille et d'autres caractéristiques morphologiques des tubules séminifères, ainsi que l'espace intertubulaire, la membrane basale, les cellules de 'leydigs' et la spermatogonie des cobayes complétés par des doses variables de vitamine C, E et de sélénium ont révélé des changements considérables. La supplémentation des régimes alimentaires de cobayes mâles adultes avec 200 mg de vitamine C avait les valeurs les plus élevées de morphométrie testiculaire suivie par 15 mg de groupe de vitamine E et 0.3 mg de sélénium. De même, des changements histoarchitecturaux considérables de la taille et de la forme des tubules séminifères et des cellules interstitielles se sont produits chez les cobayes ayant reçu respectivement 200, 15 et 0.3 mg par kg de vitamine C, E et de sélénium. Par conséquent, la supplémentation en vitamine C, E et en sélénium a un effet profond sur l'histomorphologie testiculaire des cobayes males adultes.

Abstract Background : Momelotinib (a JAK1 and JAK2 inhibitor) induces both anemia and spleen response in patients with myelofibrosis (MF) (Leukemia 2013;27:1322). The favorable effect on anemia was a distinguishing feature for momelotinib, compared to other JAK inhibitors, but the drug was also associated with treatment-emergent peripheral neuropathy (TE-PN). We examined the natural history and risk factors of momelotinib-associated peripheral neuropathy. Methods : The study patients constitute part of a larger phase-1/2 clinical trial (CCL09101; NCT00935987) using momelotinib for the treatment MF. Toxicity grading was according to the Common Terminology Criteria for Adverse Events (CTCAE) v.4.03. Momelotinib capsules (as opposed to the newer tablet formulation used in the currently ongoing phase-3 study) were used in the current study, which represents a sponsor-independent analysis. Results : 100 patients with MF (median age 66 years; 58% males) were treated at the Mayo Clinic between 11/20/09 and 11/10/10. DIPSS-plus (JCO. 2011;29:392) risk distribution was 63% high, 36% intermediate-2 and 1% intermediate-1. 75% of the patients harbored JAK2V617F and 50% abnormal karyotype. Previous treatment included other JAK inhibitors in 21 patients, thalidomide/lenalidomide/pomalidomide in 31 and hydroxyurea or other cytoreductive agents in 55. History of diabetes was documented in 7% of the patients at baseline and 14 (14%) of the patients had symptoms of PN before starting treatment with momelotinib, all of which were grade-1. Momelotinib was initiated at 100 mg/day in 3 patients, 150 mg/day in 21, 150 mg twice-daily in 20, 200 mg/day in 3, 300 mg/day in 47 and 400 mg/day in 6. The maximum momelotinib dose was 150 mg/day in 6 patients, 150 mg twice-daily in 20, 300 mg/day in 68 and 400 mg/day in 6. Treatment duration was <6 months in 12 patients, 6-12 months in 22, 12-24 months in 19 and >24 months in 47. Median follow-up after the institution of protocol drug therapy was 35 months (range 1-49). During this period, TE-PN was documented in 44 (44%) patients; of these, 42 were in patients without baseline neuropathy. TE-PN involved the feet only in 28 patients, hands only in one patient and both feet and hands in 15 patients. Median (range) for the time of onset of TE-PN was 32 weeks (1-132) and duration of TE-PN 11 months (0-40). All 42 newly-emergent PN were grade-1 sensory while the two patients with grade-1 baseline PN progressed to grade-2. Formal neurological evaluation, which was performed in 9 patients, mostly showed length-dependent sensory-motor large and small fiber neuropathy with axonal features. TE-PN resulted in drug discontinuation in 7 patients and reduction in drug dose in 28 patients. Improvement after drug dose reduction was documented in only one patient and in none of those with drug discontinuation. Progression to grade-2 PN was documented in 3 patients. TE- PN was significantly associated with clinical improvement (CI) with 54% incidence in responders vs 30% in non-responders (p=0.02); however, longer treatment duration was also associated with higher prevalence of TE-PN (p=0.03). In univariate analysis, patients with TE-PN lived longer than those without TE-PN (p=0.048); however, significance was lost during multivariable analysis that included either achievement of CI or treatment duration. Neither the initial (p=0.53) nor maximum (p=0.37) momelotinib dose was correlated with TE-PN, which was also not influenced by JAK2V617F (p>0.99), karyotype (p=0.26), history of diabetes (p=0.39) or previous treatment with JAK inhibitor therapy (p=0.7), thalidomide (p=0.24), lenalidomide (p=0.59), pomalidomide (p=0.63) or hydroxyurea (p=0.56). There were no correlations between TE-PN and age (p=0.37), sex (p=0.37), type of MF (p=0.98), DIPSS-plus score (p=0.07), baseline transfusion dependency (p=0.15), constitutional symptoms (p=0.83) or spleen size (p=0.53). TE-PN did not correlate with hematologic (p=0.14) or extramedullary toxicity other than PN (p=0.41) or lipase/amylase abnormalities (p=0.35). Conclusions : Momelotinib-associated neuropathy in MF might not be reversible in the majority of cases but also does not appear to be progressive. We were not able to identify risk factors for TE-PN, other than duration of treatment, which also explains its apparent association with response/survival. We are currently looking into possible correlations with serum thiamine levels. Disclosures No relevant conflicts of interest to declare.

Abstract In ALL, several studies have pointed at the prognostic significance of low leucocyte counts with blasts and the role of traumatic lumbar puncture in defining central nervous system (CNS)-involvement. However, data regarding pediatric AML and CNS-involvement are scarce. We retrospectively investigated the role of CNS-involvement in 247 pediatric AML cases diagnosed from 1987 to 2002. Patients were treated according to protocol AML-87, AML 94 or AML 97. CNS-prophylaxis consisted of 5 intrathecal (ith) Ara-C injections in study AML-87 (plus cranial irradiation in case of WBC >70x10.9/l); 5 Ara-C injections ith in AML 92/94 (no irradiation) and 3 triple therapy injections ith in AML-97 (no irradiation). CNS-treatment (for patients with ≥5 WBC/μl with blasts or clinical CNS-disease) consisted of extra ith chemotherapy and irradiation. The database did not provide data on individual treatment adjustment, especially in case of bloody CSF contamination. Central review of CSF samples was performed at the DCOG. Blasts were detected morphologically. CNS-involvement was re-classified as: CNS-1, <5 WBC/μl without blasts; CNS-2, <5 WBC/μl, with blasts; CNS-3, ≥5 WBC/μl, with blasts or clinical evidence of CNS-disease; TLP positive, ≥10 erythrocytes/μl CSF with blasts; TLP negative, ≥10 erytrocytes/μl without blasts. From 40 patients no CSF was sent for review, and from another 33 patients essential data were missing. Therefore this report is based on the remaining 174 patients. Patients with CNS-3 were younger than other patients (1.5 vs. 7.9 years, p=0.03). Patients with CNS-2 had significantly higher initial WBCs (median 50.1 vs 22.7x10.9/l, p=0.01), whereas TLP neg. patients had lower WBCs than other patients (4.8 vs. 25.2x10.9/l, p=0.03). TLP pos. patients had lower initial platelet counts (28 vs 51x10.9/l, p=0.02). Inversion(16) occurred more frequently in patients with CNS-involvement (CNS-2 and 3, TLP pos.) compared with CNS-neg. patients (17 vs. 2%, p=0.009). DS AML patients (n=5) never had CNS-involvement (p=0.03). Only 5 (3.3%) isolated CNS-relapses in remission patients occurred: 2 (2.6%) in CNS-1; 2 (5.9%) in CNS-2 and 1 (8.3%) in CNS-3 (p=NS). There were no combined relapses involving the CNS. Probabilities of survival were estimated by Kaplan and Meier analysis and were compared using the log-rank test. For EFS all events (no CR, death of any cause, relapse) were considered from diagnosis, for DFS only relapses in remission patients. Clinical outcome of CNS-subgroups number EFS DFS OS Results in % with (SE) Overall 174 47 (±4) 59 (±4) 53 (±4) CNS 1 91 43 (±5) 55 (±6) 44 (±5) CNS 2 37 39 (±9) 49 (±10) 58 (±8) CNS 3 13 45 (±14) 61 (±16) 40 (±16) TLP neg. 10 50 (±16) 71 (±17) 50 (±16) TLP pos. 23 79 (±10) 83 (±9) 91 (±6) [Survival estimated were significantly better for TLP-pos. patients than for any other subgroup; all other differences were not statistically significant. In conclusion: 1) the number of CNS-relapses in AML is low with the current CNS-prophylaxis/treatment; 2) the CNS-relapse rate in CNS-2/CNS-3 is higher than in CNS-1 (but not statistically significant); 3) TLP positive patients had unexpected good outcome, without apparent cause; 4) CNS-2 and TLP pos. status did not have a negative prognostic impact; 5) these data differ from pediatric ALL, which may reflect differences in leukemic blast migration/adhesion molecule expression, blast size or in treatment.

Abstract Abstract 1429 Introduction: Wiskott-Aldrich syndrome (WAS) is a complex disease in which patients suffer from both bleeding and immunodeficiency. Thrombocytopenia is severe, platelets are small and may be dysfunctional; intracranial hemorrhage occurs in 20% of patients. In patients with the full WAS phenotype, early use of human stem cell transplantation (HSCT) corrects the immune deficiency and thrombocytopenia although platelet transfusions are often required. Bleeding is the main complication of the X-linked thrombocytopenia (XLT) form, whose management may include HSCT, splenectomy, or supportive care; IVIG has limited benefit. Platelet function in WAS/XLT patients with low platelet counts has not been reported because of the inability to accurately perform standard assays in severely thrombocytopenic patients. The present study evaluated platelet function and thrombopoietin (TPO) mimetic (romiplostim or eltrombopag) treatment of thrombocytopenia in patients with WAS/XLT. Methods: Flow cytometry, which enables evaluation of platelet function despite thrombocytopenia, was used to study platelets in 8 WAS/XLT patients and age-matched normal controls. Platelet function was measured by: surface expression of P-selectin and activated GPIIb-IIIa (reported by PAC1) in whole blood following stimulation with low and high dose ADP and thrombin receptor activating peptide (TRAP); annexin V binding, a marker of platelet surface expression of the procoagulant phospholipid phosphatidylserine, in platelet-rich plasma (normalized to 30,000 platelets/μL) following stimulation with convulxin (a specific agonist of the platelet collagen receptor GPVI). The effects of romiplostim (10 μg/kg/wk SQ) or eltrombopag (50-75 mg/day PO) on platelet counts and bleeding were evaluated in 4 patients (3 WAS, 1 XLT). Results: Platelets from WAS/XLT patients showed reduced TRAP-induced platelet surface P-selectin and activated GPIIb-IIIa (p <0.05) compared to age-matched control children (Figure). In contrast, convulxin-induced annexin V binding to platelets was greater than normal controls (p <0.05). These findings were observed in both WAS and XLT platelets and in non-splenectomized (6) and splenectomized (2) patients. As expected, platelet size of WAS/XLT platelets, as judged by forward light scatter, was smaller than that of normal controls. Two infants were treated with romiplostim and 2 older patients were treated with eltrombopag. One infant had 2 intervals of approximately 1 month each in which his platelets were supported entirely by romiplostim and maintained >20-30,000/μL. However, at times of infection with prolonged antibiotics, romiplostim was insufficient although it enabled platelet transfusions to be given weekly. In the other infant, who had both WAS-associated and autoimmune thrombocytopenia, romiplostim had no apparent effect; his platelets were only responsive to the combination of IVIG/methylprednisolone plus platelet transfusion given 2–3 times weekly prior to HSCT. A 25 year old XLT patient received eltrombopag for 4 weeks with a platelet increase from 18 to 33,000/μL. A fourth patient, with WAS, who had failed HSCT was treated with eltrombopag without consistent success. In the first infant on romiplostim and the XLT patient on eltrombopag, clinical bleeding was reduced in conjunction with the increased platelet count. Conclusions: Bleeding in WAS/XLT may be the result of both platelet dysfunction and thrombocytopenia. WAS/XLT platelets are smaller and express less surface P-selectin and less activated GPIIb-IIIa in response to TRAP stimulation than age-matched controls. However, WAS/XLT platelets, when stimulated via the collagen receptor GPVI, express more phosphatidylserine, which supports formation of the prothrombinase complex, than control platelets. The reduced platelet function in WAS/XLT patients resulting from reduced platelet number, size, and surface P-selectin and activated GPIIb-IIIa may be counterbalanced in part by increased GPVI-mediated procoagulant activity. However, increased platelet procoagulant activity may shorten platelet lifespan, contributing to the thrombocytopenia in WAS/XLT. Platelet counts were increased and clinical bleeding was decreased in 2 of 4 WAS/XLT patients treated with TPO mimetics. The possible use of TPO mimetics to increase platelet count and/or function in WAS/XLT patients merits further study. Disclosures: Bussel: Portola: Consultancy; Eisai: Consultancy, Membership on an entity's Board of Directors or advisory committees, Research Funding; GlaxoSmithKline: Consultancy, Equity Ownership, Research Funding, Speakers Bureau; Amgen Inc.: Equity Ownership, Research Funding, Speakers Bureau; Cangene: Research Funding; Genzyme: Research Funding; Immunomedics: Research Funding; Ligand: Research Funding, Speakers Bureau; Shionogi: Research Funding, Speakers Bureau; Sysmex: Research Funding. Off Label Use: romiplostim and eltrombopag; increase platelet counts in Wiskott-Aldrich syndrome/X-linked thrombocytopenia patients. Michelson:GlaxoSmithKline: Honoraria.

Abstract Reference/Citation: Collins N, Bisset L, McPoil T, Vicenzino B. Foot orthoses in lower limb overuse conditions: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Foot Ankle Int. 2007;28(3):396–412. Clinical Question: Among patients with or at risk for musculoskeletal overuse conditions, (1) do foot orthoses provide clinically meaningful improvements, and (2) are foot orthoses cost-effective? Data Sources: Studies published through September 28, 2005, were identified by using MEDLINE, EMBASE, CINAHL and Pre-CINAHL, Physiotherapy Evidence Database (PEDro), PubMed, SPORTDiscus, Biological Abstracts, Web of Science, Allied Health and Complementary Medicine Database, and the full Cochrane Library. The authors did not provide the search strategy used. Reference lists of included randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and identified systematic reviews were searched by hand. Study Selection: Studies were included if (1) they were RCTs that included the use of foot orthoses (either custom or prefabricated) in 1 of the intervention groups, (2) the clinical problem was an overuse condition as defined by the American College of Foot and Ankle Orthopedics and Medicine guidelines for which foot orthoses were recommended, and (3) at least 1 clinically relevant outcome was measured for a minimum of 1 week. Limits were not placed on year of publication, status of publication, or language. Data Extraction: The journal, authors, and author affiliations of included RCTs were masked from 2 of the reviewers who independently assessed the included RCTs for methodologic quality using a modified PEDro scale plus 3 additional items (justification of sample size, use of outcome measures with known validity and reliability, and reporting of adverse or side effects). Disagreements on methodologic quality were resolved with consensus or by a third reviewer. The effect sizes for the included RCTs were represented by relative risk (RR) for dichotomous outcomes and standardized mean difference (SMD) for continuous data. Confidence intervals (CIs) were reported for RR and SMD. Study data were extracted directly from each of the included studies. If provided, data from intention-to-treat analysis were extracted. Study authors were contacted when insufficient data were reported. A meta-analysis (random-effects model) was conducted using Review Manager (version 4.2; The Nordic Cochrane Centre, Copenhagen, Denmark). Main Results: The search identified 3192 potentially relevant studies. Full articles were retrieved for 327 studies. Twenty-two of the 327 studies met the inclusion criteria. Because the authors of 1 study used the same methods to report on 2 populations, a total of 23 RCTs were included in the systematic review. Prevention of lower limb overuse conditions with the use of foot orthoses was reported in 8 RCTs (7 studies). The effect of foot orthoses in the treatment of lower limb overuse conditions was reported in 15 RCTs. Of the 23 RCTs, the cost-effectiveness of foot orthoses was reported in 2 and the adverse effects of foot orthoses were reported in 8. Across the prevention RCTs, data were available for analysis for a range of 47 to 417 participants with 8 to 16 weeks of follow-up. Based on 4 RCTs in which the researchers examined prevention of lower limb overuse conditions with foot orthoses versus control in military personnel, the RR was 1.49 (95% CI = 1.07, 2.08). A clinically beneficial effect size was set a priori at 1.5 or greater for the foot-orthoses group or at 0.7 or less for the comparison group. Based on 2 RCTs reported in 1 study of the use of custom versus prefabricated foot orthoses for prevention of lower limb overuse conditions, no significant difference in risk was found (RR = 1.14, 95% CI = 0.90, 1.44). In their calculating and reporting of RR, the authors do not appear to have followed convention. Across the treatment RCTs, data were available for analysis for a range of 18 to 133 participants with 8 to 52 weeks of follow-up. The authors of the treatment RCTs reported a variety of outcome measures. Two of these, patient-perceived treatment effect (PPE) and pain on the visual analog scale (VAS), were used to calculate an overall treatment effect (PPE as RR and VAS as SMD). Based on 2 RCTs examining foot orthoses versus control, no significant difference in PPE was found (RR = 1.01, 95% CI = 0.61, 1.68). Based on 2 RCTs in which custom versus prefabricated foot orthoses were examined, no significant difference in PPE was found (RR = 0.88, 95% CI = 0.42, 1.81). The VAS data reported in the text appear to contradict the VAS data reported in Figure 2 for foot orthoses versus control for the treatment of lower limb overuse conditions. Specifically, the lower limit of the CI in the text was negative (−0.28) and in Figure 2 was positive. Because of this apparent contradiction, we did not interpret these data. Authors of 2 RCTs reported cost-effectiveness, but the data could not be pooled. Adverse events were reported in 8 of the 22 studies. The most common adverse effect reported was discomfort, which was the main reason for discontinuing foot-orthoses use in 2 studies. Conclusions: The evidence supports the use of foot orthoses to prevent a first occurrence of lower limb overuse conditions and shows no difference between custom and prefabricated foot orthoses. The evidence was insufficient to recommend foot orthoses (custom or prefabricated) for the treatment of lower limb overuse conditions.

Summary Managing complexity and technological complexification is a necessity in today's business environment. This paper outlines a method to increase value addition significantly by multidisciplinary reservoir studies. In this context, value addition refers to a positive impact on a business decision. The approach ensures a level of complexification in line both with business questions at hand and the realities of reservoirs. Sparse well control, seismic uncertainties, imperfect geologic models, time constraints, software viruses, and computing hardware limitations represent some common reservoir realities. The process model detailed in the paper uses these apparent shortcomings to moderate (i.e., guide) the level of complexification. Several project examples illustrate the implementation of the process model. The paper is an extension of three previous investigations1–3 that deal with issues of method and uncertainty in reservoir-performance forecasting. Introduction Multidisciplinary teams and data have become the standard 1990's methods to address large-scale reservoir-management issues. Concurrently, reservoir simulation has assumed the role as a "knowledge manager" of ever-growing quantities of information. The paper pursues three basic questions:How can we maximize the value added from integrated reservoir studies,How can we achieve a pragmatic balance between business objectives/timetables and problem complexification, andHow best can we use the technology dividend provided by the explosion of computing power Primarily because of their size, Saudi Arabian fields amplify the significance of these three questions. What has emerged is the realization that reservoir simulation needs to provide a proper demarcation between scientific and business objectives to remain business-relevant. The discussion that follows consists of two main parts. First, we present an analysis of complexity in general and reservoir systems in particular. This is followed by a process model (i.e., parallel planning plus) and a set of principles that link business needs, reservoir realities, and simulation in the context of multidisciplinary studies. The following definitions will facilitate the discussion that follows. Complex (adjective): Composed of interconnected parts. Complexity: The state of being intricate. The degree of interconnection among various parts. Complexification: The process of adding incremental levels of complexity to a system. Detail vs. Dynamic Complexity A vast array of multisourced information makes up reservoir systems (Fig. 1). Reservoir simulation is our attempt to link the "detail complexity" of such a system to the "dynamic complexity"4,5 expected in business decisions. In this regard, a systems engineering perspective to reservoir management is very relevant. Senge4 defines two types of complexity: detail and dynamic. Detail complexity entails defining individual ingredients in fine detail, while dynamic complexity refers to the dynamic, often unpredictable, outcomes of the interactions of the individual components. Senge4 states that "the real leverage in most management situations lies in understanding dynamic complexity, not detail complexity." This is precisely true for many of the questions facing reservoir-management project teams in the industry. When to initiate an EOR project or pattern realignment or how to develop a field are typical dynamic complexity problems. Relative-permeability data, field-management strategies, or wellbore hydraulics are examples of detail complexity. Geologic, geostatistical, and reservoir-simulation models are also examples of detail complexity, but represent higher orders of organization. Interestingly, reservoir-simulation models have a dual function: first, as an organizer of detail complexity, and, second, as a tool for interpreting dynamic complexity (a distinction from geologic models). Technological complexification is the process of adding incremental levels of detail complexity to a system to represent its dynamic complexity more rigorously. Each one of the components depicted in Fig. 1 offers an avenue of complexification. Perhaps ironically, every component also carries an element of uncertainty. New technologies are adding significantly to the detail complexity available to multidisciplinary teams. One can see that advances in computing technology, for instance, play a role in the cycle of complexification that Fig. 2 shows. As we acquire more computing power, we can build more complex models, which will further delineate the questions being addressed, calling for more computing power, and so on. The real question, however, is whether we are in fact getting a better answer to the questions posed. Or, alternatively, are we making a difference? Multidisciplinary studies are vulnerable to the tendency towards maximal detail complexity. As one of the constituent disciplines (e.g., seismic, geostatistics) produces a more detailed reservoir representation, the pressure mounts for the other disciplines to match the level of complexification in their respective areas. However, for many reservoir problems, we may have a nonlinear relationship between dynamic and detail complexity (Fig. 3). As the number of detail complexity elements rise, the number of interactions among the elements proliferate. Any one of these interactions can be a show stopper. For example, reservoir-simulation models constructed at the detail level (i.e., scale) of geocellular models can become numerically unstable or prohibitively central-processing-unit (CPU) intensive - either way, a nonsolution. Complexification vs. Error Expectations The reservoir system depicted in Fig. 1 does not represent a controlled data environment; i.e., we are not operating in a setting where we can control the quality and quantity (sufficiency) of data. Therefore, in reservoir systems, the concept of "garbage in/garbage out," when taken literally, is an oxymoron. There is always some contamination (error or uncertainty) in one of the detail complexity elements. Thus, we need to redefine our mission as "given the data environment as is, what is an acceptable error, and what is an appropriate level of complexification?"

Western fashion is constantly evolving and in order to obtain notoriety, brands need to positively connect with consumers. Individuals who wear plus-sizes are acutely aware of their reduced clothing choices and rely on language cues to find clothing. Unfortunately, the categorisation of plus-size consumers is fraught with discord and frustration. Fashion communication should consider consumer needs and preferences. However, the language used to classify plus-size consumers has yet to be examined. Plus-size women were recruited online to rate twelve terms associated with plus-size women’s clothing. The survey collected a total of 324 responses of age, height, weight and ratings of terms used to classify plus-size apparel, such as Women’s, Curvy. Data were analysed using descriptive statistics and analysis of variance to compare differences considering age and body mass. This study revealed 96% of the sample ranked the classification Women’s higher than Plus-Size. The study offers insights into how plus-size consumers view sizing communications. It also offers a useful ranking of terms that fashion companies can adopt to ensure they are communicating in language that the intended consumer prefers. This study contributes to research on social identity of clothing size, plus-size consumer experiences, and further validates the multidimensional challenges faced by plus-size consumers.

Retro fashion trends continue to be a feature of the contemporary clothing market, providing alternate configurations of womanhood from which women can fashion their identities (Hackett). This article examines the design attributes of 1950s-style clothing, that some women choose to wear over more contemporary styles. The 1950s style can be located in a distinctly hourglass design that features a small waist with distinct bust and hips. This article asks: what are the design features of this style that lead women to choose it over contemporary fashion? Taking a material culture approach, it firstly looks at the design features of the garments and the way they are marketed. Secondly, it draws upon interviews and a survey conducted with women who wear these clothes. Thirdly, it investigates the importance of this silhouette to the women who wear it, through the key concepts of body shape and size. Clothing styles of the 1950s were influenced by the work of Christian Dior, particularly his "New Look" collection of 1947. Dior’s design focus was on emphasising female curves, featuring full bust and flowing skirts cinched in with a narrow waist (Dior), creating an exaggerated hourglass shape. The look was in sharp contrast to fashion designs of the Second World War and offered a different conceptualisation of the female body, which was eagerly embraced by many women who had grown weary of rationing and scarcity. Post-1950s, fashion designers shifted their focus to a slimmer ideal, often grounded in narrow hips and a smaller bust. Yet not all women suit this template; some simply do not have the right body shape for this ideal. Additionally, the intervening years between the 1950s and now have also seen an incremental increase in body sizes so that a slender figure no longer represents many women. High-street brand designers, such as Review, Kitten D’Amour and Collectif, have recognised these issues, and in searching for an alternative conceptualisation of the female body have turned to the designs of the 1950s for their inspiration. The base design of wide skirts which emphasise the relative narrowness of the waist is arguably more suited to many women today, both in terms of fit and shape. Using a material culture approach, this article will examine these design features to uncover why women choose this style over more contemporary designs. Method This article draws upon a material culture study of 1950s-designed clothes and why some contemporary women choose to wear 1950s-style clothing as everyday dress. Material culture is “the study through artefacts of the beliefs—values, ideas, attitudes and assumptions—of a particular community or society at a given time” (Prown 1). The premise is that a detailed examination of a culture’s relationship with its objects cannot be undertaken without researching the objects themselves (Hodder 174). Thus both the object is analysed and the culture is surveyed about their relationship with the object. In this study, analysis was conducted in March and September 2019 on the 4,286 items of clothing available for sale by the 19 brands that the interview subjects wear, noting the design features that mark the style as "1950s" or "1950s-inspired". Further, a quantitative analysis of the types of clothing (e.g. dress, skirt, trousers, etc.) was undertaken to reveal where the design focus lay. A secondary analysis of the design brands was also undertaken, examining the design elements they used to market their products. In parallel, two cohorts of women who wear 1950s-style clothing were examined to ascertain the social meanings of their clothing choices. The first group comprised 28 Australian women who participated in semi-structured interviews. The second cohort responded to an international survey that was undertaken by 229 people who sew and wear historic clothing. The survey aimed to reveal the meaning of the clothes to those who wear them. Both sets of participants were found through advertising the study on Facebook in 2018. The interview subjects were selected with the requirement that they self-identified as wearing 1950s-style clothing on a daily basis. The survey examined home dressmakers who made historic-style clothing and asked them a range of questions regarding their sewing practice and the wearing of the clothes. Literature Review While subcultures have adopted historic clothing styles as part of their aesthetic (Hebdige), the more mainstream wearing of clothing from alternative eras as an everyday fashion choice has its roots in the hippy movement of the late 1960s (Cumming 109). These wearers are not attempting to “‘rebel’ against society, nor … explicitly ‘subvert’ items that are offered by mainstream culture” (Veenstra and Kuipers 362-63), rather they are choosing styles that both fit in with contemporary styles, yet are drawn from a different design ideal. Wearers of vintage clothing often feel that modern clothing is designed for an ideal body size or shape which differed markedly from their own (Smith and Blanco 360-61). The fashion industry has long been criticised for its adherence to an ultra-thin body shape and it is only in the last decade or so that small changes have begun to be made (Hackett and Rall 270-72). While plus-size models have begun to appear in advertising and on cat-walks, and fashion brands have begun to employ plus-sized fit models, the shift to inclusivity has been limited as the models persistently reflect the smaller end of the “plus” spectrum and continue to have slim, hourglass proportions (Gruys 12-13). The overwhelming amount of clothing offered for sale remains within the normative AU8-16 clothing range. This range is commonly designated “standard” with any sizes above this “plus-sized”. Yet women around the world do not fit neatly into this range and the average woman in countries such as Australia and the United States are at the upper edge of normative size ranges. In Australia, the average woman is around an AU16 (Olds) and in the US they are in the lower ranges of plus sizes (Gruys) which calls into question the validity of the term “plus-sized”. Closely related to body size, but distinctly different, is the concept of body shape. Body shape refers to the relative dimensions of the body, and within fashion, this tends to focus on the waist, hips and bust. Where clothing from the 1960s onwards has generally presented a slim silhouette, 1950s-style clothing offers an arguably different body shape. Christian Dior’s 1947 "New Look" design collection came to dominate the style of the 1950s. Grounded in oversized skirts, cinched waists, full bust, and curved lines of the mid-nineteenth century styles, Dior sought to design for “flower-like women” (Dior 24) who were small and delicate, yet had full hips and busts. While Dior’s iteration was an exaggerated shape that required substantial body structuring through undergarments, the pronounced hourglass design shape became identified with 1950s-style clothing. By the 1960s the ideal female body shape had changed dramatically, as demonstrated by the prominent model of that decade, the gamine Twiggy. For the next few decades, iterations of this hyper-thin design ideal were accelerated and fashion models in magazines consistently decreased in size (Sypeck et al.) as fashion followed trends such as "heroin chic", culminating in the "size zero" scandals that saw models' BMI and waist-to-height rations plummet to dangerously unhealthy sizes (Hackett and Rall 272-73; Rodgers et al. 287-88). The majority of the fashion industry, it appears, is not designing for the average woman. Discrimination against “fat” people leads to industry practices that actively exclude them from product offerings (Christel). This has been variously located as being entrenched anywhere from the top of the industry (Clements) to the entry level, where design students are taught their trade using size 8 models (Rutherford-Black et al.). By restricting their designs in terms of size and shape offering, clothing brands collectively restrict the ability of people whose bodies fall outside that arbitrary range to fashion their identity but are eager nonetheless to participate in fashion (Church Gibson; Peters). This resulting gap provides an opportunity for brands to differentiate their product offering with alternate designs that cater to this group. Findings 1950s-Style Clothing There are several key styles that could arguably be identified as “1950s”; however, one of the findings in this study was that the focus of the designs was on the voluptuous style of the 1950s associated with Dior’s New Look, featuring a cinched-in waist, full bust, and predominantly wide, flowing skirts. A count of the garments available for sale on the websites of these brands found that the focus is overwhelmingly on dresses (64% of the 4,286 garments on offer), with skirts and bifurcated garments being marketed in far smaller numbers, 10% (679) and 7% (467) respectively. The majority of the skirts were wide, with just a few being narrow, often in a hobble-skirt style. Both styles emphasise wide hips and narrow waists. The high number of dresses with voluminous skirts suggest that this design aesthetic is popular amongst their customers; these women are seeking designs that are based on a distinctly, if exaggerated, female form. Many of the brands surveyed have an extended size collection, outside the normative AU8-16, with one brand going as high as a UK32. Sizing standards have ceased to be universally used by clothing designers, with brands often creating their own size scales, making it difficult to make direct size comparisons between the brands (Hackett and Rall, 267). Despite this, the analysis found that many of these brands have extended their sizing ranges well into the plus-sized bracket, with one brand going up to a size 32. In most brands, the exact same designs are available throughout the sizes rather than having a separate dedicated plus-size range. Only one design brand had a dedicated separate "plus-size" range where the clothing differed from their "standard-sized" ranges. Further, many of the brands did not use terminology separating sizes into “standard” or “plus-size”. Beyond the product offering, this analysis also looked at the size of the models that design brands use to market their clothes. Four brands did not use models, displaying the clothes in isolation. Eight of the brands used a range of models of different sizes to advertise their clothes, reflecting the diversity of the product range. Seven of the brands did not, preferring to use models of smaller size, usually around a size AU8, with a couple using the occasional model who was a size AU12. Body Shape There were two ideal body shapes in the 1950s. The first was a voluptuous hourglass shape of a large bust and hips, with a small cinched-in waist. The second was more slender, as exemplified by women such as Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn, this was “a subdued and classy sensuality, often associated with the aristocrat and high fashion” (Mazur). It is the first that has come to be the silhouette most commonly associated with the decade among this cohort, and it is this conceptualisation of a curvy ideal that participants in this study referenced when discussing why they wear these clothes: I'm probably like a standard Australia at 5'10" but I am curvy. A lot of corporate clothes I don't think are really made to fit women in the way they probably could and they could probably learn a bit from looking back a bit more at the silhouettes for you know, your more, sort of average women with curves. (Danielle) The 50s styles suit my figure and I wear that style on an everyday basis. (Survey Participant #22) As these women note, this curvy ideal aligns with their own figures. There was also a sense that the styles of the 1950s were more forgiving, and thus suited a wider range of body shapes, than more contemporary styles: these are the styles of clothes I generally wear as the 50’s and 60’s styles flatter the body and are flattering to most body types. (Survey Participant #213) In contrast, some participants chose the style because it created the illusion of a body shape they did not naturally possess. For example, Emma stated: I’m very tall and I found that modern fast fashion is often quite short on me whereas if it’s either reproduction or vintage stuff it tends to suit me better in length. It gives me a bit of shape; I’m like a string bean, straight up and down. (Emma) For others it allows them to control or mask elements of their body: okay, so the 1950s clothes I find give you a really feminine shape. They always consider the fact that you have got a waist. And my waist [inaudible]. My hips I always want to hide, so those full skirts always do a good job at hiding those hips. I feel… I feel pretty in them. (Belinda) Underlying both these statements is the desire to create a feminine silhouette, which in turn increases feelings of being attractive. This reflects Christian Dior’s aim to ground his designs in femininity. This locating of the body ideal in exaggerated curves and equating it to a sense of femininity was reflected by a number of participants. The sensory appeal of 1950s designs led to one participant feeling “more feminine because of that tiny waist and heels on” (Rosy). This reflects Dior’s design aim to create highly feminine clothing styles. Another participant mused upon this in more detail: I love how pretty they make me feel. The tailoring involved to fit your individual body to enhance your figure, no matter your size, just amazes me. In by-gone eras, women dressed like women, and men like men ... not so androgynous and sloppy like today. I also like the idea of teaching the younger generation about history ... and debunking a lot of information and preconceived notions that people have. But most of all ... THE PRETTY FACTOR! (Survey Participant #130) Thus the curvy style is conceived to be distinctly feminine and thus a clear marker of the female identity of the person wearing the clothes. Body Size Participants were also negotiating the relative size of their bodies when it came to apparel choice. Body size is closely related to body shape and participants often negotiated both when choosing which style to wear. For example, Skye stated how “my bust and my waist and my hips don’t fit a standard [size]”, indicating that, for her, both issues impacted on her ability to wear contemporary clothing. Ashleigh concurred, stating: I was a size 8, but I was still a very hourglass sized 8. So modern stuff doesn’t even work with me when I’m skinnier and that shape. (Ashleigh) Body size is not just about measurements around the hips and torso, it also affects the ability to choose clothing for those at the higher and lower ends of the height spectrum. Gabrielle discussed her height, saying: so I’m really tall, got quite big hips … . So I quite like that it cinches the waist a bit, goes over the hips and hides a little bit [laughs] I don’t know … I really like that about it I guess. (Gabrielle) For Gabrielle, her height creates a further dimension for her to negotiate. In this instance, contemporary fashion is too short for her to feel comfortable wearing it. The longer skirts of 1950s style clothing provide the desired coverage of her body. The curvy contours of 1950s-designed clothing were found by some participants to be compatible with their body size, particularly for those in the large size ranges. The following statement typifies this point of view: the later styles are mostly small waist/full skirt that flatters my plus size figure. I also find them the most romantic/attractive. (Survey Participant #74) The desire to feel attractive in clothes when negotiating body size reflects the concerns participants had regarding shape. For this cohort, 1950s-style clothing presents a solution to these issues. Discussion The clothing designs of the 1950s focus on a voluptuous body shape that is in sharp contrast to the thin ideal of contemporary styles. The women in this study state that contemporary designs just do not suit their body shape, and thus they have consciously sought out a style that is designed along lines that do. The heavy reliance on skirts and dresses that cinch at the waist and flare wide over the hips suggests that the base silhouette of the 1950s designed clothing is flattering for a wide range of female shapes, both in respect to shape and size. The style is predominantly designed around flared skirts which serves to reduce the fit focus to the waist and bust, thus women do not have to negotiate hip size when purchasing or wearing clothes. By removing one to the three major fit points in clothing, the designers are able to cater to a wider range of body shapes. This is supported in the interviews with women across the spectrum of body shapes, from those who note that they can "hide their wider hips" and to those women who use the style to create an hourglass shape. The wider range of sizes available in the 1950s-inspired clothing brands suggests that the flexibility of the style also caters to a wide range of body sizes. Some of the brands also market their clothes using models with diverse body sizes. Although this is, in some cases, limited to the lower end of the “plus”-size bracket, others did include models who were at the higher end. This suggests that some of these brands recognise the market potential of this style and that their customers are welcoming of body diversity. The focus on a relatively smaller waist to hip and bust also locates the bigger body in the realm of femininity, a trait that many of the respondents felt these clothes embodied. The focus on the perceived femininity of this style, at any size, is in contrast to mainstream fashion. This suggests that contemporary fashion designers are largely continuing to insist on a thin body ideal and are therefore failing to cater for a considerable section of the market. Rather than attempting to get their bodies to fit into fashion, these women are finding alternate styles that fit their bodies. The fashion brands analysed did not create an artificial division of sizing into “standard” and “plus” categories, reinforcing the view that these brands are size-inclusive and the styles are meant for all women. This posits the question of why the fashion industry continues this downward trajectory in body size. Conclusion The design of 1950s-inspired clothing provides an alternate silhouette through which women can fashion their identity. Designers of this style are catering to an alternate concept of feminine beauty than the one provided by contemporary fashion. Analysis of the design elements reveals that the focus is on a narrow waist below a full bust, with wide flowing skirts. In addition, women in this study felt these designs catered for a wide variety of body sizes and shapes. The women interviewed and surveyed in this study feel that designers of contemporary styles do not cater for their body size and/or shape, whereas 1950s-style clothing provides a silhouette that flatters them. Further, they felt the designs achieved femininity through the accentuating of feminine curves. The dominance of the dress, a highly gendered garment, within this modern iteration of 1950s-style underscores this association with femininity. This reflects Christian Dior’s design ethos which placed emphasis on female curves. This was to become one of the dominating influences on the clothing styles of the 1950s and it still resonates today with the clothing choices of the women in this study. References Christel, Deborah A. "It's Your Fault You're Fat: Judgements of Responsibility and Social Conduct in the Fashion Industry." Clothing Cultures 1.3 (2014): 303-20. DOI: 10.1386/cc.1.3.303_1. Church Gibson, Pamela. 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"Results of a Strategic Science Study to Inform Policies Targeting Extreme Thinness Standards in the Fashion Industry." International Journal of Eating Disorders 50.3 (2017): 284-92. DOI: 10.1002/eat.22682. Rutherford-Black, Catherine, et al. "College Students' Attitudes towards Obesity: Fashion, Style and Garment Selection." Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management 4.2 (2000): 132-39. Smith, Dina, and José Blanco. "‘I Just Don't Think I Look Right in a Lot of Modern Clothes…’: Historically Inspired Dress as Leisure Dress." Annals of Leisure Research 19.3 (2016): 347-67. Sypeck, Mia Foley, et al. "No Longer Just a Pretty Face: Fashion Magazines' Depictions of Ideal Female Beauty from 1959 to 1999." International Journal of Eating Disorders 36.3 (2004): 342-47. DOI: 10.1002/eat.20039. Veenstra, Aleit, and Giselinde Kuipers. "It Is Not Old-Fashioned, It Is Vintage, Vintage Fashion and the Complexities of 21st Century Consumption Practices." Sociology Compass 7.5 (2013): 355-65. 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Wearing clothing from the past is all the rage now. Different styles and aesthetics of vintage and historical clothing, original or appropriated, are popular with fashion wearers and home sewers. Social media is rich with images of anachronistic clothing and the major pattern companies have a large range of historical sewing patterns available. Butterick McCall, for example, have a Making History range of patterns for sewers of clothing from a range of historical periods up to the 1950s. The 1950s styled fashion is particularly popular with pattern producers. Yet little research exists that explains why anachronistic clothing is all the rage. Drawing on 28 interviews conducted by the author with women who wear/make 1950s styles clothing and a survey of 229 people who wear/make historical clothing, this article outlines four key reasons that help explain the popularity of wearing/making anachronistic clothing: It argues that there exists rage against four ‘fast fashion’ practices: environmental disregard, labour breaches, poor quality, and poor fit. Ethical consumption practices such as home sewing quality clothes that fit, seeks to ameliorate this rage. That much of what is being made is anachronistic speaks to past sewing techniques that were ethical and produced quality fitting garments rather than fashion today that doesn’t fit, is of poor quality, and it unethical in its production. Fig. 1: Craftivist Collective Rage: Protesting Fast FashionRage against Fast Fashion Rage against fast fashion is not new. Controversies over Disney and Nike’s use of child labour in the 1990s, the anti-fur campaigns of the 1980s, the widespread condemnation of factory conditions in Bangladesh in the wake of the 2016 Rana Plaza collapse and Tess Holiday’s Eff Your Beauty Standards campaign, are evidence of this. Fast fashion is “cheap, trendy clothing, that samples ideas from the catwalk or celebrity culture and turns them into garments … at breakneck speed” (Rauturier). It is produced cheaply in short turnarounds, manufactured offshore by slave labour, with the industry hiding these exploitative practices behind, and in, complex supply chains. The clothing is made from poor quality material, meaning it doesn’t last, and the material is not environmentally sustainable. Because of this fast fashion is generally not recycled and ends up as waste in landfills. This for Rauturier is what fast fashion is: “cheap, low quality materials, where clothes degrade after just a few wears and get thrown away”. The fast fashion industry engages in two discrete forms of obsolescence; planned and perceived. Planned obsolescence is where clothes are designed to have a short life-span, thus coercing the consumer into buying a replacement item sooner than intended. Claims that clothes now last only a few washes before falling apart are common in the media (Dunbar). This is due to conscious manufacturing techniques that reduce the lifespan of the clothes including using mixed fibres, poor-quality interfacing, and using polyester threads, to name a few. Perceived obsolescence is where the consumer believes an otherwise functioning item of clothing to no longer to be valued. This is borne out in the idea that an item is deemed to be “in vogue” or “in fashion” and its value to the consumer is thus embedded in that quality. Once it falls out of fashion is deemed worthless. Laver’s “fashion cycle” elucidated this idea over eighty years ago. Since the 1980s the fashion industry has sped up, moving from the traditional twice annual fashion seasons to the fast fashion system of constantly manufacturing new styles, sometimes weekly. The technologies that have allowed the rapid manufacturing of fast fashion mean that the clothes are cheaper and more readily available. The average price of clothing has dropped accordingly. An item that cost US$100 in 1993 only cost US$59.10 in 2013, a drop of 41 per cent (Perry, Chart). The average person in 2014 bought 60 per cent more clothing that they did in 2000. Fast fashion is generally unsaleable in the second-hand market, due to its volume and poor design and manufacture. Green notes that many charity clothing stores bin a large percentage of the fast fashion items they receive. Environmental Rage Consumers are increasingly expressing rage about the environmental impact of fast fashion. The production of different textiles places different stresses on the environment. Cotton, for example, accounts for one third of the fibres found in all textiles, yet it requires high levels of water. A single cotton shirt needs 2,700 litres of water alone, the equivalent to “what one person drinks in two-and-a-half years” (Drew & Yehounme). Synthetics don’t represent an environmentally friendly alternative. While they may need less water, they are more carbon-intensive and polyester has twice the carbon footprint of cotton (Drew & Yehounme). Criticisms of fast fashion also include “water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing levels of textile waste”. Textile dyeing is the “second largest polluter of clean water globally.” The inclusion of chemical in the manufacturing of textiles is “disruptive to hormones and carcinogenic” (Perry, Cost). Naomi Klein’s exposure of the past problems of fast fashion, and revelations such as these, inform why consumers are enraged by the fast fashion system. The State of Fashion 2019 Report found many of the issues Klein interrogated remain of concern to consumers. Consumers continue to feel enraged at the industry’s disregard for the environment (Shaw et al.) any many are seeking alternative sources of sustainable fashion. For some consumers, the ethical dilemmas are overcome by purchasing second-hand or recycled clothing, or participate in Clothing Exchanges. Another alternative to ameliorating the rage is to stop buying new clothes and to make and wear their own clothes. A recent article in The Guardian, “’Don’t Feed the Monster!’ The People Who Have Stopped Buying New Clothes” highlights the “growing movement” of people seeking to make a “personal change” in response to the ethical dilemmas fast fashion poses to the environment. While political groups like Fashion of Tomorrow argue for collective legislative changes to ensure environmental sustainability in the industry, consumers are also finding their own individual ways of ameliorating their rage against fast fashion. Over recent decades Australians have consistently shown concern over environmental issues. A 2016 national survey found that 63 per cent of Australians considered themselves to be environmentalists and this is echoed in the ABC’s War on Waste programme which examined attitudes to and effects of clothing waste in Australia. In my interviews with women wearing 1950s style clothing, almost 65 per cent indicated a distinct dissatisfaction with mainstream fashion and frustration particularly with pernicious ‘fast fashion’. One participant offered, “seeing the War on Waste and all the fast fashion … I really like if I can get it second hand … you know I feel like I am helping a little bit” [Gabrielle]. Traid, a network of UK charity clothes shops diverts 3 000 tonnes of clothes from landfill to the second-hand market annually, reported for 2017-18 a 30 per cent increase in its second-hand clothes sales (Coccoza). The Internet has helped expand the second-hand clothing market. Two participants offered these insights: “I am completely addicted to the Review Buy Swap and Sell Page” [Anna] and “Instagram is huge for girls like us to communicate and get ideas” [Ashleigh]. Slave Rage The history of fashion is replete with examples of exploitation of workers. From the seamstresses of France in the eighteenth century who had to turn to prostitution to supplement their meagre wages (Jones 16) to the twenty-first century sweatshop workers earning less than a living wage in developing nations, poor work conditions have plagued the industry. For Karl Marx fashion represented a contradiction within capitalism where labour was exploited to create a mass-produced item. He lambasted the fashion industry and its “murderous caprices”, and despite his dream that the invention of the sewing machine would alleviate the stress placed on garment workers, technology has only served to intensify its demands on its poor workers (Sullivan 36-37). The 2013 Rena Plaza factory disaster shows just how far some sections of the industry are willing to go in their race to the bottom.In the absence of enforceable, global fair-trade initiatives, it is hard for consumers to purchase goods that reflect their ethos (Shaw et al. 428). While there is much more focus on better labour practices in the fashion industry, as the Baptist World Aid Australia’s annual Ethical Fashion Report shows, consumers are still critical of the industry and its labour practices.A significant number of participants in my research indicated that they actively sought to purchase products that were produced free from worker exploitation. For some participants, the purchasing of second-hand clothing allowed them to circumnavigate the fast fashion system. For others, mid-century reproduction fashion was sourced from markets with strong labour laws and “ethically made” without the use of sweat shop labour” [Emma]. Alternatively, another participant rejected buying new vintage fashion and instead purchased originally made fashion, in this case clothing made 50 to 60 years ago. This was one was of ensuring “some poor … person has [not] had to work really hard for very little money … [while the] shop is gaining all the profits” [Melissa]. Quality Rage Planned obsolescence in fashion has existed at least since the 1940s when Dupont ensured their nylon stockings were thin enough to ladder to ensure repeat custom (Meynen). Since then manufacturers have deliberately used poor techniques and poor material – blended fabrics, unfinished seams, unfixed dyes, for example – to ensure that clothes fail quickly. A 2015 UK Barnardo’s survey found clothes were worn an average of just seven times, which is not surprising given that clothes can last as little as two washes before being worn out (Dunbar). Extreme planned obsolescence in concert with perceived obsolescence can lead to clothes being discarded before their short lifespan had expired. The War on Waste interviewed young women who wore clothes sometimes only once before discarding them.Not all women are concerned with keeping up to date with fashion, instead wanting to create their own identify though clothes and are therefore looking for durability in their clothes. Many of the women interviewed for this research were aware of the declining quality of clothes, often referring to those made before the fast fashion era as evidence of quality clothing. For many in this study, manufacturing of classically styled clothing was of higher concern than mimicking the latest fashion trend. Some indicated their “disgust” at the poor quality of fast fashion [Gabrielle]. Others has specific outrage at the cost of poorly made fast fashion: “I don’t like spending a lot of money on clothing that I know may not necessarily be well made” [Skye] and “I got sick of dresses just being see through … you know, seeing my bras under things” [Becky]. For another: “I don’t like the whole mass-produced thing. I don’t think that they are particularly well made … Sometimes they are made with a tiny waist but big boobs, there’s no seams on them, they’re just overlocked together …” [Vicky]. For other participants in this research fast fashion produced items were considered inferior to original items. One put it is this way: “[On using vintage wares] If something broke, you fixed it. You didn’t throw it away and go down to [the shop] and buy a new one ... You look at stuff from these days … you could buy a handbag today and you are like “is this going to be here in two years? Or is it going to fall apart in my hands?” … there’s that strength and durability that I do like” [Ashleigh]. For another, “vintage reproduction stuff is so well made, it’s not like fast fashion, like Vivien of Holloway and Pin Up Girl Clothing, their pieces last forever, they don’t fall apart after five washes like fast fashion” [Emma]. The following encapsulates the rage felt in response to fast fashion. I think a lot of people are wearing true vintage clothing more often as a kind of backlash to the whole fast fashion scene … you could walk into any shop and you could see a lot of clothing that is very, very cheap, but it’s also very cheaply made. You are going to wear it and it’s going to fall apart in six months and that is not something that I want to invest in. [Melissa]Fit RageFit is a multi-faceted issue that affects consumers in several ways: body size; body shape; and height. Body size refers to the actual physical size of the body, whether one is underweight, slim, average, muscular or fat. Fast fashion body size labelling reflects what the industry considers to be of ‘normal sizes’, ranging from a size 8 through to a size 16 (Hackett & Rall). Body shape is a separate, if not entirely discrete issue. Women differ widely in the ratios between their hips, bust and waist. Body shape distribution varies widely within populations, for example, the ‘Size USA’ study identified 11 different female body shapes with wide variations between populations (Lee et al.). Even this doesn’t consider bodies with physical disabilities. Clothing is designed to fit women of ‘average’ height, thus bodies that are taller or shorter are often excluded from fast fashion (Valtonen). Even though Australian sizing practices are based on erroneous historical data (Hackett and Rall; Kennedy), the fast fashion system continues to manufacture for average body shapes and average body heights, to the exclusion of others. Discrimination through clothing sizes represents one way in which social norms are reinforced. Garments for larger women are generally regarded as less fashionable (Peters 48). Enraged consumers label some of the offerings ‘fat sacks’, ‘tents’ and ‘camouflage wear’ (Colls 591-592). Further, plus size is often more expensive and having been ‘sized up’ from smaller sizes, the result is poor fit. Larger body’s therefore have less autonomy in fashioning their identity (Peters 45). Size restrictions can lead to consumers having to choose between going without a desired item or wearing a size too small for them as no larger alternative is available (Laitala et al. 33-34).The ideology behind the thin aesthetic is that it is framed as aspirational (Barry) and thus consumers are motivated to purchase clothes based upon a desire to fit in with this beauty ideal. This is a false dichotomy (Halliwell and Dittmar 105; Bian and Wang). For participants in this research rage at fashion fashions persistance in producing for ‘average’ sized women was clearly evident. For a plus-size participant: “I don’t suit modern stuff. I’m a bigger girl and that’s not what style is these days. And so, I find it just doesn’t work for me” [Ashleigh]. For non-plus participants, sizing rage was also evident: I’m just like a praying mantis, a long string bean. I’m slim, tall … I do have the body shape … that fast fashion catered for, and I can still dress in fast fashion, but I think the idea that so many women feel excluded by that kind of fashion, I just want to distance myself from it. So, so many women have struggles in the change rooms in shopping centres because things don’t fit them nicely. [Emma] For this participant reproduction fashion wasn’t vanity sized. That is, a dress from the 1950s had the body measurements on the label rather than a number reflecting an arbitrary and erroneous sizing system. Some noted their disregard for standardised sizing systems used exclusively for fast fashion: “I have very non-standard measurements … I don’t buy dresses for that reason … My bust and my waist and my hips don’t fit a standard. You know I can’t go “ooh that’s a 12, that’s an 18”. You know, I don’t believe in standard sizing basically” [Skye]. Variations of sizing by brands adds to the frustration of fashion consumers: “if someone says 'I’m a size 16' that means absolutely nothing. If you go between brands … [shop A] XXL to a [shop B] to a [shop C] XXL to a [shop D] XXL, you know … they’re not the same. They won’t fit the same, they don’t have the same fit” [Skye]. These women recognise that their body shape, size and/or height is not catered for by fast fashion. This frees them to look for alternatives beyond the product offerings of the mainstream fashion industry. Although the rage against aspects of fast fashion discussed here – environmental, labour, quality and fit – is not seeing people in the streets protesting, people are actively choosing to find alternatives to the problem of sourcing clothes that fit their ethos. ReferencesABC Television. "Coffee Cups and Fast Fashion." War on Waste. 30 May 2017. Barnardo's. 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