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Journal articles on the topic 'Nearshore currents'

Author: Grafiati

Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 19 February 2023

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1

Abolfathi, Soroush, and Jonathan Pearson. "APPLICATION OF SMOOTHED PARTICLE HYDRODYNAMICS (SPH) IN NEARSHORE MIXING: A COMPARISON TO LABORATORY DATA." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 16. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.16.

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A weakly compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (WCSPH) method is used to simulate the nearshore flow hydrodynamics. The wave induced dispersion and diffusion are determined for monochromatic waves with significant wave height of 0.12 m and the wave period of 1.2 sec (Sop=5%) based on WCSPH wave dynamics. The hydrodynamics of WCSPH model are compared to the laboratory results obtained from series of LDA measurements. The overall mixing coefficients across the nearshore are determined from WCSPH hydrodynamics. The mixing coefficients obtained are compared with the values determined from a series of fluorometric studies performed in a large-scale facility in DHI, Denmark. The results show that the wave profiles are in good agreement with the experimental data. The WCSPH model is proven to be well capable of estimating the dispersion across the nearshore.

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2

Yamaguchi, Masataka. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS DUE TO IRREGULAR WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 83. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.83.

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This paper presents a numerical model of nearshore currents due to irregular waves. The radiation stress is estimated by a current-depth refraction model for irregular waves, in which the energy dissipation due to wave breaking is modeled through the use of a saturated frequency spectrum in shallow water. The model is in reasonable agreement with measured wave height, mean water level variation and observed nearshore current patterns. Next, the model is applied to the computation of wave transformation and nearshore currents on a uniformly sloping beach and on model topographies with complicated contour lines. Comparison with the results based on a regular wave model shows that wave irregularity has a smoothing effect on cross-shore distributions of wave height, mean water level variation and longshore currents, but that it does not have much effect on nearshore current patterns.

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3

Shepard, F. P., and D. L. Inman. "NEARSHORE CIRCULATION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 1 (May 12, 2010): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v1.5.

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Studies of nearshore circulation were initiated at Scripps Institution during World War II. A method of estimating the velocity of longshore currents from known wave conditions on straight beaches with parallel contours was devised by Munk and Traylor (1945) and later revised by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949). Their methods were based on energy and momentum considerations which were applied to the following two types of observations: (1) field observations of longshore currents along the straight beach at Oceanside, California made by Munk and Traylor (1945), and (2) laboratory measurements conducted at the Department of Engineering, University of California.

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4

Sato, Shinji, and Shohei Ohkuma. "FORMATION OF BREAKING BORES IN FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE DUE TO THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 17. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.17.

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Tsunami forces on critical coastal structures were reanalyzed by combining laboratory experiments and numerical tsunami simulation, focusing on the formation of breaking bores and their large force to structures. Laboratory experiments demonstrated that nearshore tsunami is likely to form a breaking bore when the slope of the incident tsunami front is steep and the nearshore bed slope is mild. The impulsive pressure to coastal structures was found to increase with the steepness of the tsunami front. Based on these results, together with numerical simulation of tsunami, the formation of bores was discussed in relation to coastal cliff topography in Fukushima Prefecture.

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5

Yamaguchi, Masataka. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS BASED ON A FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVE THEORY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 64. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.64.

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A numerical model of wave-Induced nearshore currents taking into account the finite amplitude effect is developed, with a cnoidal wave theory used for the estimation of wave characteristics. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation and nearshore currents on uniformly sloping beaches and on two-dimensional model topographies. The comparison with the results obtained by a linear model shows that wave nonlinearity has a strong influence on wave transformation in shoaling water and in the surf zone and on the strength of nearshore circulation, but that it does not have much effect on the longshore current profile. Moreover, the validity of the present model is supported by the quantitative agreement with the experiment for wave height variations, and the qualitative correspondence with the experiment for mean water level variation and longshore currents and the observation for nearshore currents.

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6

Derakhti, Morteza, and Robert A. Dalrymple. "VORTEX FORCE ANALYSIS OF WAVE-DRIVEN NEARSHORE CIRCULATION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 61. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.61.

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In this presentation, we examine 3-D structure of nearshore circulation driven by short-crested wave breaking using the 3-D Smooth Particle Hydrodynamic model, GPUSPH (HÃ©rault et al., 2010). The alongshore variation of incident wave field has been imposed by using the method of intersecting wave trains proposed by Dalrymple (1975). We use the 3-D vortex force formalism to analyze the various forcing mechanisms of the observed circulation. Of particular interest is the relative importance of the vortex force compared with the other wave-averaged forces. The accuracy of the depth-averaged vortex force based on the formulation of Smith [2006] is also examined.

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7

YAMASHITA, Toshihiko, Yuichiro TAKAGI, and Tatsuya NAKANO. "Three Dimensional Structure of Nearshore Currents." PROCEEDINGS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING IN THE OCEAN 9 (1993): 79–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/prooe.9.79.

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8

Smith, Jerome A., and John L. Largier. "Observations of nearshore circulation: Rip currents." Journal of Geophysical Research 100, no. C6 (1995): 10967. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/95jc00751.

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9

De Vriend, H. J., and M. J. F. Stive. "Quasi-3D modelling of nearshore currents." Coastal Engineering 11, no. 5-6 (December 1987): 565–601. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(87)90027-5.

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10

Dalrymple, Robert Anthony, Alexis Herault, Giuseppe Bilotta, and Rozita Jalali Farahani. "GPU-ACCELERATED SPH MODEL FOR WATER WAVES AND FREE SURFACE FLOWS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (February 2, 2011): 9. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.9.

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This paper discusses the meshless numerical method Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics and its application to water waves and nearshore circulation. In particularly we focus on an implementation of the model on the graphics processing unit (GPU) of computers, which permits low-cost supercomputing capabilities for certain types of computational problems. The implementation here runs on Nvidia graphics cards, from off-the-shelf laptops to the top-of-line Tesla cards for workstations with their current 480 massively parallel streaming processors. Here we apply the model to breaking waves and nearshore circulation, demonstrating that SPH can model changes in wave properties due to shoaling, refraction, and diffraction and wave-current interaction; as well as nonlinear phenomena such as harmonic generation, and, by using wave-period averaged quantities, such aspects of nearshore circulation as wave set-up, longshore currents, rip currents, and nearshore circulation gyres.

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11

Zhang, Yu, Cuiping Kuang, Lulu He, Yi Pan, Yanxiong Yang, Jiabo Zhang, and Shuguang Liu. "COMPARISON OF TIDAL CURRENTS UNDER DIFFERENT NOURISHMENT SCHEMES ON WEST BEACH OF BEIDAIHE, CHINA." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 21, 2011): 32. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.32.

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This paper detailed a study on the tidal current field around a beach nourishment project including submerged breakwaters and jetties. The effect of different nearshore structure arrangements on the tidal current field was studied utilizing a numerical model build based on the solution of two-dimensional shallow water equations and an unstructured grid. In order to calibrate the numerical model, field survey was conducted at 5 current stations and a tidal level station around the project area. According to a primary analysis on stability, environment, sight of the beach, and construction quantity, four project schemes were chosen and simulated. After comparing the modeling results, the effects of submerged breakwaters and jetties were discussed. Conclusively, it is feasible to protect the filled sand on west beach by jetties and submerged breakwaters through obvious tidal current velocity reduction in the nearshore area.

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12

Sriram, Venkatachalam, Ira Didenkulova, Stefan Schimmels, A. Sergeeva, and Nils Goseburg. "LONG WAVE PROPAGATION, SHOALING AND RUN-UP IN NEARSHORE AREAS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 34 (December 2, 2014): 20. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.currents.20.

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13

Suarez, Leandro, Rodrigo Cienfuegos, Eric Barthélemy, Hervé Michallet, and Cristian Escauriaza. "LAGRANGIAN DRIFTER MODELLING OF AN EXPERIMENTAL RIP CURRENT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (October 25, 2012): 35. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.35.

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A non-uniform alongshore wave forcing on an experimental uneven mobile bathymetry create mean circulation on a rip channel. A 2D numerical hydrodynamic model that integrates the non-linear shallow-water equations in a shock-capturing finite-volume framework is used to validate the nearshore circulation, and drifters displacement.

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14

Yoo, Donghoon, and Brian A. O'Connor. "MATHEMATICAL MODELLING OF WAVE-INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 122. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.122.

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The paper presents a mathematical model for describing wave climate and wave-induced nearshore circulations. The model accounts for current-depth refraction, diffraction, wave-induced currents, set-up and set-down, mixing processes and bottom friction effects on both waves and currents. The present model was tested against published experimental data on wave conditions within a model harbour and shown to give very good results for both wave and current fields. The importance of including processes such as advection, flooding and current-interaction in coastal models was demonstrated by comparing the numerical results without each process to the results from the complete scheme.

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15

Chun, Hwusub, and Kyung-Duck Suh. "Analysis of Longshore Currents with an Eulerian Nearshore Currents Model." Journal of Coastal Research 336 (November 2017): 1352–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/jcoastres-d-16-00180.1.

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16

Dingemans, M. W., M. J. F. Stive, J. Bosma, H. J. De Vriend, and J. A. Vogel. "DIRECTIONAL NEARSHORE WAVE PROPAGATION AND INDUCED CURRENTS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 81. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.81.

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Recently, a depth and current refraction model has been developed for the computation of directionally spread, random wave propagation in coastal regions (Booij et al., 1985). For the verification of the performance of this model laboratory measurements in a directional, shallow water wave basin were conducted. Specific attention was given to the verification of the new features of the numerical model, viz. the effects of directional spreading and ambient current field on the wave propagation and transformation process, and the change of characteristic spectral wave frequency due to wave dissipation processes.

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17

Nishimura, Hitoshi, Kohki Maruyama, and Tsutomu Sakurai. "On the Numerical Computation of Nearshore Currents." Coastal Engineering in Japan 28, no. 1 (December 1985): 137–45. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/05785634.1985.11924411.

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18

Lin, Ming‐Chung, and Jiing‐Yih Liou. "Analytical study of wave‐induced nearshore currents." Journal of the Chinese Institute of Engineers 9, no. 5 (July 1986): 437–49. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02533839.1986.9676912.

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19

Henderson, Stephen M., Joshua Arnold, H. T. Özkan-Haller, and Stephen A. Solovitz. "Depth Dependence of Nearshore Currents and Eddies." Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122, no. 11 (November 2017): 9004–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/2016jc012349.

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20

Petitjean, Lise, Damien Sous, Vincent Rey, Frédéric Bouchette, FranÃ§ois Sabatier, and Samuel Meulé. "THE STRUCTURE OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS DRIVEN BY CHANGES IN METEO-MARINE FORCINGS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.5.

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This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically sheared current and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic field campaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season. The overall analysis highlights three main circulation patterns, largely controled by the bathymetric features and by co-working or competing wind and waves forcings. Regarding the vertical structuration of the circulation, most of field observations shown seaward directed circulation with onshore component close to the air/sea surface whose intensity varies according to incoming wave conditions. Forth, vertical shear increase when breaking happen close to sensor location and orientation of mean circulation depend on wind direction.

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21

De Zeeuw, Roeland, Matthieu A. De Schipper, Dano Roelvink, Sierd De Vries, and Marcel J. F. Stive. "IMPACT OF NOURISHMENTS ON NEARSHORE CURRENTS AND SWIMMER SAFETY ON THE DUTCH COAST." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (December 15, 2012): 57. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.57.

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Assessing swimmer safety along the Dutch coast entails more than only assessing the risk of rip currents. Seven criteria have been formulated to make a comprehensive assessment of swimmer safety along the Dutch coast. These are based on interviews with lifeguards, rescue report statistics and detailed lagrangian measurements of the current patterns and bathymetry in the shallow nearshore, at three different field sites along the South-Holland coast.

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22

Anderson, Dylan, A. Spicer Bak, Katherine L. Brodie, Nicholas Cohn, Rob A. Holman, and John Stanley. "Quantifying Optically Derived Two-Dimensional Wave-Averaged Currents in the Surf Zone." Remote Sensing 13, no. 4 (February 13, 2021): 690. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs13040690.

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Complex two-dimensional nearshore current patterns are generated by feedbacks between sub-aqueous morphology and momentum imparted on the water column by breaking waves, winds, and tides. These non-stationary features, such as rip currents and circulation cells, respond to changing environmental conditions and underlying morphology. However, using fixed instruments to observe nearshore currents is limiting due to the high costs and logistics necessary to achieve adequate spatial sampling resolution. A new technique for processing surf-zone imagery, WAMFlow, quantifies fluid velocities to reveal complex, multi-scale (10 s–1000 s meters) nearshore surface circulation patterns. We apply the concept of a wave-averaged movie (WAM) to measure surf-zone circulation patterns on spatial scales of kilometers in the alongshore and 100 s of meters in the cross-shore. The approach uses a rolling average of 2 Hz optical imagery, removing the dominant optical clutter of incident waves, to leave the residual foam or water turbidity features carried by the flow. These residual features are tracked as quasi-passive tracers in space and time using optical flow, which solves for u and v as a function of image intensity gradients in x, y, and t. Surf zone drifters were deployed over multiple days with varying nearshore circulations to validate the optically derived flow patterns. Root mean square error are reduced to 0.1 m per second after filtering based on image attributes. The optically derived patterns captured longshore currents, rip currents, and gyres within the surf zone. Quantifying nearshore circulation patterns using low-cost image platforms and open-source computer vision algorithms presents the potential to further our understanding of fundamental surf zone dynamics.

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23

Kumar, V. Sanil, G. Udhaba Dora, C. Sajiv Philip, P. Pednekar, and Jai Singh. "Nearshore Currents along the Karnataka Coast, West Coast of India." International Journal of Ocean and Climate Systems 3, no. 1 (March 2012): 71–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1260/1759-3131.3.1.71.

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Measured current data at 7 locations and tide data at 3 locations during the pre-summer monsoon period along the west coast of India is used in the study. The surface currents during March showed a predominant northward trend and during April it was towards south. Estimated tidal currents were upto 25 cm s−1 with an average value of 8 cm s−1. Current tidal form number varied from 0.56 to 1 at different locations indicating currents are mixed. M2 and S2 tidal current constituents rotated clock wise at all location. Near surface, the alongshore current was 2.6 to 5.9% of the alongshore wind and near bottom it was 1.9 to 3.6% of the alongshore wind.

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24

Reyes, Clint Chester, Eric Cruz, and Jose Carlo Eric Santos. "CASE STUDY OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS HAZARD ANALYSIS FOR RECREATIONAL BEACH DEVELOPMENT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 31, 2020): 20. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.papers.20.

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Nearshore current generation at two coastlines contemplated for beach resort development is studied with the use of a numerical model for coexisting waves and currents. A nested-mesh technique was applied to consolidate the 2 domains of coarse and fine bathymetric data and to translate deep water wave conditions at the nearshore mesh boundary. The hydrodynamic model is validated using tide data at the nearest tide stations, while offshore wave conditions, determined from a wave hindcasting method, are inputted as quasi-stationary forcing. Simulations results of wave-current co-existing fields indicate local areas of rip currents within the project coastlines. In order to evaluate the safe swimming zones, an analysis of threshold currents under idealized conditions of human characteristics was carried out, that indicated a threshold of 0.16 mps for pure currents. With a safety margin to account for co-existing waves, rip current zones not exceeding 0.1 mps are considered safe and are used to designate the safe swimming areas for the 2 locations.

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25

El Safty, Hoda, and Patrick Lynett. "SPOT APPLICATION TOOL FOR WAVE DRIVEN NEARSHORE HYDRODYNAMICS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 19. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.waves.19.

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Nearshore hydrodynamics are driven by a wide spectrum of motions/scales that vary on the order of O (10) m to O (100) km. These scales have different effects on the dynamics of the nearshore areas, and capturing these effects is essential in accurately modeling the nearshore processes such as: mixing and transport of pollutants, wave steeping and/or wave damping, erosion and deposition of sediments, and infragravity wave propagation. For example, in tidal inlets, waves interact with tidal-currents and bathymetry. The presences of waves alter the kinematics and the dynamics of the tidal-currents such as increasing the bottom friction due to wave bottom boundary layer and changing the vertical profile of the horizontal velocity from the well-known log profile. The tidal-currents affect the wave kinematics and dynamics such as Doppler shift, wave refraction, and wave steeping in opposite currents, wave breaking and infragravity wave propagation. The time and length scales of the current are much larger than those of the waves, and modeling this interaction using a single numerical model is numerically expensive. One approach to overcome this issue is through using multi-scale numerical modeling by coupling two or more numerical models. In literature, spectral wave models have been widely coupled with circulation models to study wave-current interaction. These spectral models can provide accurate predictions for wave height but they donâ€™t provide accurate information about nonlinear wave statistics, i.e. wave skewness and asymmetry, which is a key parameter in sediment transport models. On the other hand, the phase-resolving models are capable of providing this information. In the current study, the large-scale circulation model, Delft3D, is coupled with time-domain Boussinesq-type wave model. The use of time domain wave model in the numerical coupling will improve the prediction of various nearshore processes such as: wave breaking and thus infragravity wave release and propagation, combined vertical velocity structure under external forcings of tidal currents. Such an application will fulfill the community needs for a "spot application tool" where we simulate wave-driven processes in a large domain with fine-resolution.

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26

Ostrowski, Rafał, Jan Schönhofer, Magdalena Stella, Alexey Grave, Aleksander Babakov, and Boris Chubarenko. "South Baltic rip currents detected by a field survey." Baltica 33, no. 1 (August 1, 2020): 11–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.5200/baltica.2020.1.2.

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The paper presents results of experimental investigations of currents in the nearshore region of the south Baltic Sea. The analysis is based on the field data collected near Lubiatowo (Poland) using the measuring equipment which was simultaneously operated both by the Polish and Russian research teams. The venture was aimed at detection of rip currents that are rare and insufficiently explored phenomena in the south Baltic coastal zone. The data include wind velocity and direction, deep-water wave buoy records and currents surveyed by means of drifters. The measurements were carried out in the area whose hydrodynamics, lithodynamics and morphodynamics are typical of the south Baltic sandy coast. It appears that the nearshore water flows are mostly represented by longshore wave-driven currents with mean velocities of 0.22–0.53 m/s, and the maximum velocity of 1.32 m/s. Water circulation patterns resembling rip currents with velocities of up to 0.34 m/s were identified only on one day, when specific wave conditions occurred at the study site. Contrary to strong longshore currents generated by storm waves, rip currents occur under mild or moderate wave conditions, when many beach users are willing to swim in nearshore waters. The present findings can therefore be useful for the improvement of swimmers’ safety in the south Baltic Sea regions.

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27

Jansen, Tommy. "Review of Tide and Wind Affect to Currents Pattern in Amurang Bay, North Sulawesi, Indonesia." Journal of Sustainable Engineering: Proceedings Series 1, no. 1 (June 30, 2019): 68–74. http://dx.doi.org/10.35793/joseps.v1i1.9.

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Winds, tides and river discharges largely drive coastal currents. The strength of tidal currents, river runoff, meteorological conditions, shoreline configuration, water depth and topography are the factors that affect coastal water circulation. Generally currents are the flowing of water mass caused by wind, difference of density or tide moving. The existence of currents direction to nearshore of Amurang Bay was studied with using computer model tools as the hydrodynamic model by determine currents speed and its direction.The study took place in Amurang Bay as the province of North Sulawesi Indonesia with the geography position around 1012’16.16” N-124027’04.33” E to 1015’43.80” N-124032’01.06”E. The bathymetry and tide data used in this research from Indonesian Coastline Environmental map of year 1995 with scale 1:50.000 from BIG (Badan Informasi Geospasial) with a satellite data from Google earth of year 2018 and LANTAMAL Manado, the wind and current data was obtained from BMKG Bitung. Time simulations are taken from 25 November to 23 December 2016 as a wet season and 25 Mei to 23 Juni 2016 as a dry season. As analytical tools, MIKE3 hydrodynamic mode are used. The currents pattern play an important role in sediment transport process, so the study of the currents pattern become to be important as well. The result of this study indicate that in the wet season the combination of tide wind in surface and bottom layer of sea the currents direction close to nearshore dominant to East with current speed average 0.18 m/s, in dry season the combination of tide wind in surface layer of sea the currents direction close to nearshore dominant to South-East with current speed 0.12-0.24 m/s, in bottom layer the currents direction dominant to South-East with current speed average 0.2 m/s. Some of interesting point in research’s area show that current by tide make the current direction seaward and landward, but tide combination wind change the direction of current. It can be said that the tide influenced to current make the currents direction seaward and landward follow the pattern of tide, but combination tide and wind change its direction.

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28

Gallerano, Francesco, Giovanni Cannata, and Federica Palleschi. "Nonlinear waves and nearshore currents over variable bathymetry in curve-shaped coastal areas." Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy 5, no. 4 (November 2019): 419–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s40722-019-00153-8.

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AbstractIrregular coastlines and variable bathymetry produce nonlinear effects on wave propagation which play a significant role on the formation of nearshore currents. To protect the coastline from the erosional action of nearshore currents, it is usual to adopt coastal defence works such as submerged breakwaters. If properly designed, they give rise to circulation patterns capable to induce sedimentation of suspended material at the nearshore region. To numerically simulate the hydrodynamic effects of submerged breakwaters in irregular coastal areas, we use a numerical model which is based on an integral contravariant formulation of the three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations in a time-dependent coordinate system. These equations are numerically solved by a non-hydrostatic shock-capturing numerical scheme which is able to simulate the wave propagation from deep water to the shoreline, including the surf zone and swash zone.

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29

Cienfuegos, Rodrigo, L. Duarte, L. Suarez, and P. A. Catalán. "NUMERICAL COMPUTATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE DYNAMICS AND VELOCITY PROFILES USING A FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ MODEL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 29, 2011): 48. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.48.

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We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq- type model SERR1D (Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer mechanisms that enhance infragravity wave generation in the laboratory.

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30

Rijnsdorp, Dirk Pieter, Pieter Bart Smit, and Marcel Zijlema. "NON-HYDROSTATIC MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES USING SWASH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (September 28, 2012): 27. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.27.

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This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a sloping bottom. Good agreement between model predictions and data is found throughout the domain for bound infragravity waves. Furthermore the model predicts greater outgoing free infragravity wave-heights for steeper slope regimes which is consistent with the measurements. The model however tends to overestimate the magnitude of the outgoing infragravity waves.

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31

Nishihata, Takeshi, Yoshimitsu Tajima, and Shinji Sato. "NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF WAVE AND NEARSHORE CURRENT FIELDS AROUND LOW-CRESTED PERMEABLE DETACHED BREAKWATERS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (December 15, 2012): 80. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.structures.80.

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A Boussinesq type numerical model was developed which can simulate both wave fields and current fields around permeable detached breakwaters. The validity of the model was verified through measurements of waves and nearshore currents in hydraulic experiments investigating reflection and transmission capability. The porosity of the structure was accounted by a friction term incorporating turbulent resistance. The combination of turbulent friction model and anisotropic diffusion type wave breaking model was found to reproduce wave fields around the detached breakwaters and nearshore current fields behind the structures with a good accuracy.

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32

Shi, Fengyan, Gangfeng Ma, James T. Kirby, and Tian-Jian Tom Hsu. "APPLICATION OF A TVD SOLVER IN A SUITE OF COASTAL ENGINEERING MODELS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (December 15, 2012): 31. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.31.

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This paper describes the recent developments in a suite of coastal engineering models using Godunov-type shock-capturing schemes. The developments include a depth-integrated, wave resolving Boussinesq model, a hydrostatic, wave-averaged circulation model, and a fully 3-D non-hydrostatic model in a surface-following $\sigma$ coordinate formulation. The models implemented with the shock-capturing TVD scheme show robust performances in modeling breaking waves, nearshore circulation and coastal inundation. In this paper, we present model equations in a conservative form, MUSCLE-TVD numerical scheme and model applications. We also point out some problems caused by the TVD scheme in the recent model applications.

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33

Rezaei Yeknami, Saeed, Mohsen Soltanpour, and Zahra Ranji. "ANALYSIS OF NEARSHORE LOCAL EFFECTS ON TIDAL BEHAVIOUR AT IMAM KHOMEINI PORT AND MUSA BAY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 7. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.7.

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Tidal waves have very different dynamics in shallow waters, in comparison to deep sea waters. When a tidal wave approaches to nearshore areas, it might be affected by different factors such as resonance, shoaling in landward direction, funneling due to the decrease of the width, damping due to bottom friction, and partial reflection at abrupt changes of the cross-sections of estuary. Coriolis force can also deflect the tidal waves in large areas, which may lead to the changes of tidal ranges near the coasts. The high increase of tidal range at Musa Bay, located at the north-western part of the Persian Gulf, is studied in this paper. Numerical modeling confirms the occurrence of the resonance for a period of about 8-9 hr., where the amplification factor is gradually decreased with further increase of the wave period. Results implied that resonance, funneling and shoaling are the three most effective parameters which amplify the tide in this area.

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Zhu, Fangfang, and Nicholas Dodd. "BEACHFACE EVOLUTION UNDER TWO SWASH EVENTS BY TWO SOLITARY WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 16. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.16.

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Swash zone morphodynamics is of great signi cance for nearshore morphological change, and it is important to provide reliable numerical prediction for beachface evolution in the swash zone. Most of the numerical work on swash zone morphodynamics carried out so far has focused primarily on beach evolution under one single swash event. In reality, multiple swash events interact, and these swash interactions have been recognised as important in the beachface evolution. Swash-swash interactions leads to energy dissipation, enhanced bed shear stresses and sediment transport (Puleo and Torres- Freyermuth, 2016). In this paper, we investigate the beachface evolution under two swash events using numerical simulations, in which shock-shock interactions are described by dam-break problems.

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Son, Sangyoung, Tae-Hwa Jung, and Fengyan Shi. "Vertical Structure of Rip-currents in the Nearshore Circulation." Journal of Coastal Research 75, sp1 (March 3, 2016): 1402–6. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/si75-281.1.

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Yoo, Jeseon, and Sun-Sin Kim. "Remote Sensing of Nearshore Currents using Coastal Optical Imagery." Ocean and Polar Research 37, no. 1 (March 30, 2015): 11–22. http://dx.doi.org/10.4217/opr.2015.37.1.011.

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Kuroiwa, Masamitsu, and Hideaki Noda. "A quasi-three dimensional numerical model of nearshore currents." Journal of the Visualization Society of Japan 19, Supplement2 (1999): 191–94. http://dx.doi.org/10.3154/jvs.19.supplement2_191.

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38

Watson, J. R., C. G. Hays, P. T. Raimondi, S. Mitarai, C. Dong, J. C. McWilliams, C. A. Blanchette, J. E. Caselle, and D. A. Siegel. "Currents connecting communities: nearshore community similarity and ocean circulation." Ecology 92, no. 6 (June 2011): 1193–200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1890/10-1436.1.

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39

Johnson, Donald R. "Nearshore surface currents in the Chesapeake Bight during summer." Continental Shelf Research 7, no. 4 (April 1987): 367–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0278-4343(87)90106-3.

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40

Chang, Yeon S., Jong Dae Do, Kyungmo Ahn, and Jae-Youll Jin. "NUMERICAL STUDY OF NEARSHORE HYDRODYNAMICS UNDER STORM WAVE CONDITIONS IN HUJEONG BEACH, EAST COAST OF KOREA." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 67. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.67.

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In this study, we present the results of numerical model study to simulate the hydrodynamic conditions observed in Hujeong Beach in the east coast of the Republic of Kore from December, 2016 to January, 2017 during which several extratropical cyclones hit the area causing extreme wave conditions. Three acoustic instrumentation systems were moored from the coast to a location outside the surf zone where the water depth was ~8m to measure waves, currents and suspended sediment concentrations. For the numerical model, we employed the CADMAS-SURF Raynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model to generate the wave conditions over the region of the field experiment.

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Dudas, Sarah E., Brian A. Grantham, Anthony R. Kirincich, Bruce A. Menge, Jane Lubchenco, and John A. Barth. "Current reversals as determinants of intertidal recruitment on the central Oregon coast." ICES Journal of Marine Science 66, no. 2 (December 2, 2008): 396–407. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/icesjms/fsn179.

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Abstract Dudas, S. E., Grantham, B. A., Kirincich, A. R., Menge, B. A., Lubchenco, J., and Barth, J. A. 2009. Current reversals as determinants of intertidal recruitment on the central Oregon coast. – ICES Journal of Marine Science, 66: 396–407. The influence of current reversals on intertidal invertebrate recruitment was investigated using two seasons of nearshore physical and intertidal biological observations along the central Oregon coast, an intermittent upwelling system. In 1998, upwelling periods were punctuated by infrequent wind reversals and widespread increases in nearshore temperature, whereas 1999 was characterized by frequent, shorter wind reversals. In 1998, barnacle recruitment was best at the site experiencing more frequent reversals of the predominantly equatorward currents, higher poleward velocities, and coincident temperature increases. In 1999, barnacle recruitment peaked at the site with greater poleward current velocities, and maximum mussel recruitment at the site with consistent deep (10 m) onshore currents. Barnacle recruitment generally increased with onshore surface currents and temperature; mussel recruitment showed variable, weaker correlations. The data indicate that substantial decreases or complete reversals of upwelling-driven alongshore currents may be important for barnacle recruitment, but topographically driven differences in the response of currents to wind changes may generate local recruitment differences. This suggests that even relatively straight coastlines may have enhanced recruitment zones attributable to the variable local oceanography. Further, the interannual differences observed in current reversals and recruitment patterns highlight the potential importance of upwelling variation for onshore communities.

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Feddersen, Falk, J. H. Trowbridge, and A. J. Williams. "Vertical Structure of Dissipation in the Nearshore." Journal of Physical Oceanography 37, no. 7 (July 1, 2007): 1764–77. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo3098.1.

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Abstract The vertical structure of the dissipation of turbulence kinetic energy was observed in the nearshore region (3.2-m mean water depth) with a tripod of three acoustic Doppler current meters off a sandy ocean beach. Surface and bottom boundary layer dissipation scaling concepts overlap in this region. No depth-limited wave breaking occurred at the tripod, but wind-induced whitecapping wave breaking did occur. Dissipation is maximum near the surface and minimum at middepth, with a secondary maximum near the bed. The observed dissipation does not follow a surfzone scaling, nor does it follow a “log layer” surface or bottom boundary layer scaling. At the upper two current meters, dissipation follows a modified deep-water breaking-wave scaling. Vertical shear in the mean currents is negligible and shear production magnitude is much less than dissipation, implying that the vertical diffusion of turbulence is important. The increased near-bed secondary dissipation maximum results from a decrease in the turbulent length scale.

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Da Silva, Paula Gomes, RaÃºl Medina, Mauricio GonzÃ¡lez, and Roland Garnier. "FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND SWASH PARAMETERIZATION ON BEACHES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 23. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.23.

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The wave runup, defined as the vertical oscillation of the water edge at the coast, is commonly used as criterion for coastal design projects and flooding/erosion risk analysis. Due to the complexity of nearshore wave processes, most runup studies are based on empirical approaches which directly relate these oscillations to the beach and offshore wave characteristics. However, there is still considerable debate about just how runup is related to these environmental parameters, as well as about the range of application of empirical models due to site specific conditions. Recent works emphasized the importance of including site specific conditions to reduce the scatter in available parameterizations. Parameters related to beach characteristics like the sediment size, the amount of reflection, wave spectral shape and morphodynamic beach state may improve runup predictions (Poate et al., 2016, Guza and Feddersen, 2012).

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Lin, Lihwa, Zeki Demirbilek, Jessica Podoski, Thomas Smith, and Lihwa Lin. "COASTAL MODELING FOR REGIONAL SEDIMENT BUDGET IN WEST MAUI, HAWAII." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 14. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.sediment.14.

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The West Maui Region incorporates a thin coastal margin backed by steep mountainous terrain that has been vastly altered by agricultural and urbanized development. Coastline includes headlands and reefs with a very limited supply of sediment. Shoreline was found to be erosional chronically based on average rates. The dynamics of the area are complex with a wave climate affected by intricate bathymetry, wind, and island sheltering. Longshore currents vary locally and temporally from nearshore to offshore. Wave and current modeling indicates that large waves in the summer and winter have driven the majority of sediment transport along the coast. The littoral transport is essentially northward in summer and southward in winter. The net transport of longshore sediment is overall small. The nearshore eddy formation with wave breaking nearshore over narrow sandy bed and wide reefs may increase the complexity of sediment movement within the region.

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Tajima, Yoshimitsu, and Shinji Sato. "LOCAL CONCENTRATION OF SLOWLY VARYING WAVE AND CURRENT FIELDS AROUND THE ABRUPTLY CHANGING BOTTOM SLOPES ALONG THE SHORE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 31, 2011): 21. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.21.

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This study aims to investigate physical mechanisms of locally concentrated nearshore hydrodynamic forces under interactive fields of waves and currents on abruptly changing coastal bathymetry. Laboratory experiments were first performed to represent such phenomena and a newly developed monitoring system based on image processing techniques successfully captured the local concentrations of wave fields as quantitative high-resolution data sets. Numerical experiments were then performed to investigate the physical mechanisms of the observed features. It was found that, among the other various possible factors, slowly varying wave-induced nearshore currents have one of the most significant impacts on local concentrations of waves around the abruptly changing bathymetry.

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Dettmers, John M., John Janssen, Bernard Pientka, Richard S. Fulford, and David J. Jude. "Evidence across multiple scales for offshore transport of yellow perch (Perca flavescens) larvae in Lake Michigan." Canadian Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences 62, no. 12 (December 1, 2005): 2683–93. http://dx.doi.org/10.1139/f05-173.

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Most freshwater fishes have short pelagic early life stages. Lake Michigan presents an interesting scenario for yellow perch (Perca flavescens), a species with a long pelagic larval stage that may not be well adapted to lakes with an expansive pelagic environment and extensive offshore transport. We investigated the possibility that early life stages of yellow perch were transported well offshore from their nearshore spawning grounds and explored whether food resources were more or less favorable offshore. To determine the extent to which pelagic age-0 yellow perch moved offshore, we sampled at multiple scales ranging from local (<2 km) to across the lake (>120 km). Evidence of offshore movement by fish larvae occurred at each scale. Yellow perch larvae were quickly transported offshore from nearshore spawning sites and remained in the offshore pelagia to sizes of at least 30 mm. Zooplankton density was greater offshore than nearshore, suggesting that pelagic age-0 yellow perch find improved food resources offshore compared with their nearshore spawning sites. Currents operating at oceanographic scales likely influenced the offshore movement of pelagic age-0 yellow perch in Lake Michigan. These currents, coupled with prey availability for pelagic age-0 individuals, may influence the recruitment success of this species.

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47

Azouri, Assaf, Volker Roeber, and Douglas S. Luther. "THE RESPONSE OF HARBOR ENVIRONMENTS PROTECTED BY IRREGULAR FRINGING REEF SYSTEMS TO STRONG GRAVITY WAVE FORCING - A CASE STUDY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 44. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.44.

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Three high-resolution, dispersive nearshore numerical models (BOSZ - Roeber & Cheung, 2012; FUNWAVE - Shi et al., 2012; XBeach - Roelvink et al., 2009) are compared and contrasted with observations from fringing- reef and harbor environments, in an attempt to test their ability to reproduce the wave transformation processes in a complex Hawaiian reef-system environment forced by highly energetic sea/swell wave conditions. Haleâ€™iwa Harbor, located on Oahuâ€™s North Shore (Figure 1), is a small boat harbor that faces serious operational problems resulting from water level fluctuations and currents during periods of strong swells. These oscillations are predominantly at infragravity periods (rather than swell periods), and, nearly every winter season, their amplitude levels are sufficiently large to trigger significant surges in the harbor. These surges can cause damage to harbor infrastructure and boats, and threaten the safety of mariners who attempt to enter or exit the harbor.

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Melby, Jeffrey A., Fatima Diop, Norberto Nadal-Caraballo, Alex Taflanidis, and Victor Gonzalez. "HURRICANE WATER LEVEL PREDICTION USING SURROGATE MODELING." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 57. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.57.

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For this study, the surrogate was constructed using kriging (Jia et al. 2015). The high fidelity coupled surge and wave numerical modelling for the Gulf of Mexico was used as the training set. The numerical model was either ADCIRC and STWAVE or ADCIRC and SWAN in the nearshore. The surrogate models were trained using tropical storm parameters (latitude, longitude, central pressure, radius to maximum wind speed, storm heading, and forward speed) at a specific location as inputs and individual responses (e.g. surge) as outputs. Tide was computed separately using ADCIRC and linearly superimposed with surge to get total water level. The regional surrogates accurately reproduced both peaks and time series of water levels for historical storms. An extensive validation was conducted to determine the optimal application of the kriging approach. In this paper we will report the efficient design-of-experiments approach, surrogate training and validation.

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Kim, Mujong, Hak Soo Lim, Jong-Dae Do, Sun-Sin Kim, Hee Jun Lee, and Jae-Seol Shim. "Variations of Nearshore Currents induced by Seasonal Waves in Haeundae." Journal of Coastal Research 85 (May 2018): 1551–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/si85-311.1.

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YAMAGUCHI, Masataka, Kohji HOSONO, and Hiromitsu KAWAHARA. "A numerical model of nearshore currents due to irregular waves." Doboku Gakkai Ronbunshu, no. 375 (1986): 251–59. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/jscej.1986.375_251.

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