Journal articles on the topic 'Merchant energy operations'

The purpose of this work is to investigate the effect of environmental variables on the electric energy expenditure of a typical surface warship. Studies with similar objectives are much more frequent for merchant ships, but warship operations have peculiarities that will be emphasised. In particular, they spend large fractions of their life cycle at port, during which the vessel remains active. First, a discussion of the embarked systems is presented, pointing out the importance of auxiliary systems and, in particular, heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Quantitative estimates of the energy consumption of those systems are provided. Then, using data taken during real operations of a frigate of the Spanish Navy, correlations are computed between power consumption and different environmental variables. As a novelty, the analysis is carried out separating the different modes of operation of the ship. This leads to interesting conclusions, including a considerable positive correlation between seawater temperature and fuel consumption when the vessel is in port. The effect of a moored ship on the surrounding seawater temperature is studied by a numerical computation. The results suggest that the position of sea chests may be consequential for energy efficiency.

With the increasingly strict regulations for the energy-saving and emission-reduction technology of ships, minimizing fuel cost and thus reducing the carbon intensity index (CII) is one of the most critical issues in the design and operation of merchant ships. More recently, many wind-assisted devices, such as rotors, wind sails, etc., have been investigated and designed to utilize renewable wind energy. With the equipment of wind-assisted rotors, the optimization of ship routes becomes more important because the effect of this wind-assisted device highly depends on the local wind field along the shipping route. In this paper, an improved ship weather routing framework based on the A* algorithm has been proposed to determine the optimal ship route and ship operations with wind-assisted rotors. The proposed framework effectively utilizes different sources of data, including ship design, weather forecasting and historical sailing information, to produce a better estimation of fuel consumption under the effect of sea states. Several improvements on the classic A* algorithm, including directed searching and three-dimensional extension, are proposed to improve the routing effect and efficiency. Finally, the proposed method was applied to test cases of a VLCC operating from China to the Middle East and the results show that the total fuel consumption could be reduced compared to the minimum distance route.

Based on consumers’ different preferences for hassle costs, we study two platform operation strategies: selected platforms and diversified platforms. Considering diverse charging systems of merchants on the platform, a two-sided user utility function and profit function are established to examine the influence of hassle costs, platform services and the strength of two-sided network effects on the scale of platform users, and platforms’ profits and price. The results show that: (1) The selected platform strategy adopting the transaction fee system is better than other strategies. (2) Under the selected platform strategy, the scale of bilateral users and platform profits will decrease with the increase in hassle costs, and increase with the strengthening of the bilateral network effects. However, the proportion of equilibrium pricing for merchants will increase with the increase in consumer hassle costs, and will decrease with the increase in the network effect on the consumer side. (3) The less value-added services that selected platforms provide to consumers, the more value-added services exist to merchants and the higher the equilibrium pricing is for merchants. However, as the network effect on the side of merchants is increasing, the equilibrium pricing ratio of the platform to merchants shows three trends However, the general trend is that the greater the network effect of the business side, the lower the fee ratio and the higher the platform profit.

Knowledge refers to the information and abilities gained via experience or education. Practical implementation, as well as an appraisal of their value in people's lives, demonstrated the validity of concepts. The purpose of this research is to understand more about the retail industry's requirement for Knowledge Management (KM). Leadership, culture, attitude, and a grasp of how merchants develop or strive to boost worker performance of an organization's structure are all critical considerations. Knowledge management (KM) is a system that allows merchants to observe all of their company procedures and operations, which is very significant in today's environment when new technology development is critical to saving time and energy. Knowledge management (KM) is a system that allows merchants to view all of their company procedures and operations. Knowledge management practises emphasise the production of new knowledge and the timely use of organisational knowledge to maintain a strategic advantage. The company must be aware of which information is current, on the verge of becoming old, or has already passed its expiration date. The survey gathered 50 responses from both organised and unorganised traders in Delhi-NCR. This research report will be useful to retailers and other organisations looking to incorporate client purchase trends into their operations.

Fuel expenses constitute the largest part of the operating cost of a merchant ship. Integrated energy systems that cover all energy loads with low fuel consumption, while being economically feasible, are increasingly studied and installed. Due to the large variety of possible configurations, design specifications, and operating conditions that change with time, the application of optimization methods is imperative. Designing the system for nominal conditions only is not sufficient. Instead, intertemporal optimization needs to be performed that can be static or dynamic. In the present article, intertemporal static and dynamic optimization problems for the synthesis, design, and operation (SDO) of integrated ship energy systems are stated mathematically and the solution methods are presented, while case studies demonstrate the applicability of the methods and also reveal that the optimal solution may defer significantly from the solutions suggested with the usual practice. While in other works, the SDO optimization problems are usually solved by two- or three-level algorithms; single-level algorithms are developed and applied here, which tackle all three aspects (S, D, and O) concurrently. The methods can also be applied on land installations, e.g., power plants, cogenerations systems, etc., with proper modifications.

Large ships adopt a central fresh water-cooling system that indirectly cools waste heat with seawater to discharge the ship′s waste heat out of the ship. Such a central fresh water-cooling system is essential for future electric powered ships. Since 2010, shipping companies have attempted to save energy by applying variable-speed cooling pumps to the central FW cooling system, but due to the minimum-required discharge pressure of the pump, they have applied the existing 3-way valve system alongside. However, since the control systems of the variable-speed cooling pump and the 3-way valve are controlled by the same output variable, the two control systems collide during operation. Therefore, for efficient energy-saving control, it is important to accurately model the central fresh water-cooling system and find the optimal control method on this basis. In this study, a ship’s central cooling system was mathematically modeled and verified by comparing it with the actual ship′s operation data. A control solution method to effectively save energy for the central cooling system was proposed

In recent years, research into ships has focused on reducing emissions, consuming less energy, and being more efficient. As a result, the maritime industry has been continuing in a green and sustainable direction. Improving the fuel efficiency of ships and the decarbonization of shipping are important issues to reduce fuel consumption and emitted Greenhouse Gas (GHG) amounts. Decarbonization in the shipping industry could be achieved through technical and operational strategies such as Energy Saving Devices (ESDs) to reduce the fuel consumption of new and existing ships. According to the makers, ESDs can optimize fuel efficiency by up to 15%. This paper reviews the current literature on stern hydrodynamic ESDs, which are mainly used on typical merchant vessels, i.e., bulkers, tankers, and carriers. A comprehensive review is carried out analysing the different available solutions for stern hydrodynamic ESDs, the working principles, the methods used for the design, optimization, and evaluation of the performance improvements, and the relevant issues of these specific ESDs.

Air quality can be affected by merchant ships, so it is important to regulate emissions that are produced, as well as to use energy efficiently. In this sense, the cleanliness of the oil used in lubrication is essential to achieve a better use of energy and reduce losses in marine engines. For that, it is vital to carry out good maintenance strategies. Therefore, it is important to develop techniques that allow condition monitoring during engine operation. In order to detect potential problems as soon as possible, it is common to analyze vibratory signals, since sustainable changes in the rotating frequency and its harmonics can be detected, which was the objective of this work, by analyzing the time-frequency domain using wavelet packet transform. A methodology to select the optimal function (mother wavelet) and the best patterns to monitor, in order to determine the state of the purifiers of the marine lube oils, was carried out, including intelligent classification systems. Specifically, this document considers centrifugal oil lubricant separators systems, since the monitoring of these systems can determine the condition of different mechanical systems.

Annually a large amount of goods has been transported over the world and the most of the transportation is carried by seaborne. Although the seaborne trade is considered to be the most efficient – economically and environmentally friendly way of transportation an enormous amount of fossil fuels is used to fulfil the operation of the merchant fleet. Although we are living in times where efforts are directed to improvement of the state of the environment and reduction of the negative impact of the Greenhouse Gases, the fossil fuels still remain the main energy source used to run the internal combustion engines widely used in the ships nowadays. A well-known fact is that the fuel burning leads to significant harmful emissions generation causing a serious negative effect on the surrounding us environment. The introduced by IMO and MEPC requirements regarding the Greenhouse Gases (GHG) imposes for development and application of new criteria when selecting the ship’s propulsion plant. In the current article will be observed three ship groups consisting of real container vessels. The purpose is to analyse the impact caused by the fuel type used in the ship’s engines on the GHG generation and the economic indicators related with fuel costs

With the development of Maritime Autonomous Surface Ships (MASS), considerable research is undertaken to secure their safety. One of the critical aspects of MASS is collision avoidance, and multiple collision avoidance algorithms have been developed. However, due to various reasons, collision avoidance of autonomous merchant vessels appears to be far from resolved. With this study, we aim to discuss the current state of Collision Avoidance Methods (CAMs) and the challenges lying ahead—from a joint academic and practical point of view. To this end, the key Rules from International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea (COLREG) have been reviewed with a focus on their practical application for MASS. Moreover, the consideration of the COLREG Rules in contemporary collision avoidance algorithms has been reviewed. The ultimate objective is to identify aspects of COLREG requiring additional attention concerning MASS developments in terms of collision avoidance. Our conclusions indicate that although a lot of progress has been achieved recently, the feasibility of CAMs for MASS remains questionable. Reasons for so are the ambiguous character of the regulations, especially COLREG, as well as virtually all existing CAMs being at best only partly COLREG-compliant.

The Baltic Sea is a unique and sensitive brackish-water ecosystem vulnerable to damage from shipping activities. Despite high levels of maritime safety in the area, there is a continued risk of oil spills and associated harmful environmental impacts. Achieving common situational awareness between oil spill response decision makers and other actors, such as merchant vessel and Vessel Traffic Service center operators, is an important step to minimizing detrimental effects. This paper presents the Next-Generation Smart Response Web (NG-SRW), a web-based application to aid decision making concerning oil spill response. This tool aims to provide, dynamically and interactively, relevant information on oil spills. By integrating the analysis and visualization of dynamic spill features with the sensitivity of environmental elements and value of human uses, the benefits of potential response actions can be compared, helping to develop an appropriate response strategy. The oil spill process simulation enables the response authorities to judge better the complexity and dynamic behavior of the systems and processes behind the potential environmental impact assessment and thereby better control the oil combat action.

One of the most acute thematic areas in discussions at international forums at various levels are the issues of improving the environmental performance and increasing the energy efficiency of the merchant marine vessels, both in international maritime and inland navigation. This article discusses the results of the practical application of analytical methods for processing the indication data of internal combustion engines of the Danube pusher under operating conditions, as well as some aspects of the application of the results of analytical synchronization of the data obtained to further substantiate the optimal operating modes of such vessels. The results are applicable to determine the possible range of variation in energy efficiency and environmental friendliness. When determining the energy efficiency indices, various forms of pushed caravans, most often operating in the Danube shipping, are taken into account. Further steps have also been taken to substantiate the concept of prioritizing diagnostics and optimizing the operation of engines of existing ships in comparison with the implementation of innovative ships projects. Surely, the introduction of new projects will theoretically lead to a faster achievement of the goals of a number of European projects (for example, GRENDEL - Green and Efficient Danube Fleet, European Green Deal conception, etc.) to achieve zero emissions, but any innovative projects are much more expensive than any modernization and optimization of the movement modes of vessels that are already in the Danube fleet, and which are successfully operating with good economic results. In this context, innovative vessel projects are not attractive to shipowners and other participants in the Danube transport market. The need to attract additional investments, lack of funds, market decline in the context of pandemic restrictions, the actual loss of business positions of small shipowners - all these are factors that make it impossible for the widespread use of innovative developments and solutions for the complete renewal of the Danube fleet by shipowners.

Underwater acoustic signature identification has been employed as a technique for detecting underwater vehicles, such as in anti-submarine warfare or harbour security systems. The underwater sound channel, however, has interference due to spatial variations in topography or sea state conditions and temporal variations in water column properties, which cause multipath and scattering in acoustic propagation. Thus, acoustic data quality control can be very challenging. One of challenges for an identification system is how to recognise the same target signature from measurements under different temporal and spatial settings. This paper deals with the above challenges by establishing an identification system composed of feature extraction, classification algorithms, and feature selection with two approaches to recognise the target signature of underwater radiated noise from a research vessel, Ocean Researcher III, with a bottom mounted hydrophone in five cruises in 2016 and 2017. The fundamental frequency and its power spectral density are known as significant features for classification. In feature extraction, we extract the features before deciding which is more significant from the two aforementioned features. The first approach utilises Polynomial Regression (PR) classifiers and feature selection by Taguchi method and analysis of variance under a different combination of factors and levels. The second approach utilises Radial Basis Function Neural Network (RBFNN) selecting the optimised parameters of classifier via genetic algorithm. The real-time classifier of PR model is robust and superior to the RBFNN model in this paper. This suggests that the Automatic Identification System for Vehicles using Acoustic Signature developed here can be carried out by utilising harmonic frequency features extracted from unmasking the frequency bandwidth for ship noises and proves that feature extraction is appropriate for our targets. 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The land used for the construction of the railway infrastructure is state land under the management control of the Indonesian Railways Company or known as P.T. Kereta Api Indonesia (PT. KAI). If the land is not used based on its function, the government will take over to manage the land for development. The effectiveness of this development will have a positive impact in the future, which is better than before. An important issue, in this case, is related to the construction of a station market by the Regency Governments on state land managed by PT. KAI and creates discrepancies with the tenants as third parties. This study used the legal research method to analyze the problems with the black letter law paradigm. Data collection techniques in this study used library research by collecting legal materials. Legal materials were analyzed deductively using interpretation methods (hermeneutics). The results found that it is possible to take legal actions by transferring the fixed assets of PT. KAI in the form of land to the Ponorogo Regency Government. The legal action can later be made based on the agreement between the tenants as a third party, PT. KAI, and the Ponorogo Regency Government. The effectiveness of the construction of the station market can be achieved with the support of all parties, especially the management of the market and merchants as actors in economic activities in the market.

Andrew Bruce’s path to building a digital business offers a map of hazards for those selling digital services to oil companies. When he started Data Gumbo, he was thinking about building a business aimed at solving the data quality issues that were a constant headache when he was working on developing digital control systems at NOV. One option was a fee-for-service business that cleaned up drilling data. While he knew that would make the engineers happy, he wondered if accountants would notice. Clean data ultimately can have a large financial impact by facilitating the digital transformation. But, for those doing financial statements, it is easy to miss because it does not have a direct impact on the bottom line, even though it can facilitate digital changes that do. As he searched for a better idea, he began thinking about building around a blockchain network. At the time, blockchain was only associated with keeping a record of virtual currency ownership. But he could see uses for an immutable record of contracts and transactions in the drilling business, where contract disputes, audits, and wrangling over bills are costly, time-consuming rituals. The plans required only specific bits of operational data, such as the volume of product loaded or the time of delivery, to measure performance based on the contract terms. Building a service that minimizes the customer data needed removed a potential sticking point in negotiations. Years passed as he worked to find users willing to work together to create a blockchain network to see if multiple companies could make this idea work in an oil field. Another thing that kills many startups is time. Investments by the venture arms of Equinor and Saudi Aramco gave Data Gumbo the cash to slowly recruit buyers and sellers to create and test whether the network he envisioned, known as GumboNet, actually could deliver on its promise of faster, argument-free billing that saved money. The most public example was the result of a test by a multicompany consortium in 2019 that showed a paperless system for tracking water or any other oilfield commodity can work accurately and deliver results efficiently. That was the prelude to more testing, until the oil price crash forced the industry to accelerate its search for ways to lower the cost of producing a barrel of oil. The crash sped the transition from testing to field uses and helped expand the company’s customer base. Data Gumbo has added locations in the Middle East and South America. One downside of success: It offers a model for potential competitors. “It is always a concern. It would be naive to say it is not. Anyone can use blockchain tomorrow,” Bruce said. What is harder to do is build a network of users, such as GumboNet. Assembling a group of users who understand the rules and trust the system—like a large group of merchants willing to accept a particular credit card—is a hard thing to replicate. To strengthen those ties, Bruce continues to look for new ways to generate value for users. One idea that he said is on the way this year is a service that uses data associated with logistics contracts, such as water truck traffic data, to generate emissions or water use data to help answer tough questions raised by investors requiring environment, safety, and governance reports.

Problem definition: Merchant commodity and energy production assets operate in markets with volatile prices and exchange rates. Plant closures adversely affect societal entities beyond the specific plant being shut down, such as the parent company and the local community. Motivated by an aluminum producer, we study if mitigating these hard-to-assess broader impacts of a shutdown is financially viable using the plant’s operating flexibility. Academic/practical relevance: Our social commerce perspective toward managing shutdown decisions deviates from the commonly used asset value maximization objective in merchant operations. Identifying operating policies that delay or decrease the likelihood of a shutdown without incurring a significant asset value loss supports socially responsible plant shutdown decisions. Methodology: We formulate a constrained Markov decision process to manage shutdown decisions and limit the probability of future plant closures. We provide theoretical support for approximating this intractable model using unconstrained stochastic dynamic programs with modified shutdown costs and explore two classes of operating policies. Our first policy leverages anticipated regret theory, and the second policy generalizes, using machine learning, production-margin heuristics used in practice. We compute the former and latter policies using a least squares Monte Carlo method and combining this method with binary classification, respectively. Results: Anticipated-regret policies possess desirable asymptotic properties absent in classification-based policies. On instances created using real data, anticipated-regret and classification-based policies outperform practice-based production-margin strategies. Significant reductions in shutdown probability and delays in plant closures are possible while incurring small asset value losses. Managerial implications: A plant’s operating flexibility provides an effective lever to balance the social objective to reduce closures and the financial goal to maximize asset value. Adhering to both objectives requires combining short-term commitments with external stakeholders to avoid shutdown with longer-term internal efforts to reduce the probability of plant closures.

Power business strategists have all long since come to the conclu-sion that the unique monopoly service of generation provision hasbecome a commodit y business, in which skill at cost control, operatingefficiency and price speculation through trading are the drivers of suc-cess. On a parallel track, regulators increasingly derive self satisfactionfrom the increasing conformity of their domains to true marginal costcomp etition. For all these pla yers, the power business finally seems to befitting int o that Econom ics /Finance 101 box we know so well: valuationof alternative strategies discounted cash flow streams.Thi s almost Newtonian certainty of how the world work s also is tobe found in analysis of the current acquisition boom triggered by de-regulati on, i.e. it is all interpreted as bidder match-ups of present valuecash stream analysis to corporate strategy. Sales of assets are dri ven byre gulator y compliance or core business focus . Purchasers are drawn ofasset s by one of three basic approaches: economics of scale, initiallythrou gh the fuel suppl y chain; asset backed trading of retail and whole-sale en erg y services; and operational efficiencies based on improvedmana gem ent of specific sites. Power strategies are thus characterized asall ab out alternative appraisals of cash flow potential; different cost ofcapital hurdle rates and different forward price curve s for the regionalmark et s int o which the particular auction is being carved.

The Solar-Hydrogen Fuel-Cell Home located at the United States Merchant Marine Academy, one of America’s five federal service academies, is believed to be the first of its kind in New York State and perhaps the nation. It represents a synergy of alternative-energy equipment that uses the sun’s energy to create electricity to power the home or surrounding community. Furthermore, it creates hydrogen gas that can be used as a fuel for a variety of applications. The hydrogen produced has two main purposes. First, the hydrogen supplies a fuel cell that produces electricity for the home in the evenings or during days when it is cloudy. Second, the hydrogen can be used to fill up the fuel tank of an environmentally friendly hydrogen-powered automobile after a typical day of operation. There are three primary objectives of this paper. The first objective is to provide a technical overview of the home’s energy systems. This includes an overview of the various monitoring devices, followed by a discussion on how these types of energy systems can help meet the needs of sustainability and energy independence. Building upon this information, the second objective is to perform an analysis of the current system configuration, including the solar array capacity, fuel cell size, and quantity of hydrogen that can be produced versus what is required for the home to be energy self-sufficient. The third objective is to explore existing maritime and military applications and to suggest future applications that may stem from research of this cutting-edge Solar-Hydrogen Fuel-Cell Home and research platform.

Thomas Nelson Marsham was one of that band of distinguished men of strong intellect and strong personality who laid the foundations of a programme of nuclear power generation in this country on a sound technical basis. He joined the new atomic energy enterprise when it was still the responsibility of the Ministry of Supply, transferring to the United Kingdom Atomic Energy Authority on its formation, and eventually retired from the UKAEA as a main board member in 1988. After war-time service in the Merchant Navy, he was trained as a physicist and did his doctoral research in nuclear physics. This training enabled him to master rapidly the basic neutron physics underlying the operation of nuclear reactors but, as his career advanced in the UKAEA, he showed also an excellent grasp of engineering principles. Significantly he was elected to the Fellowship of Engineering in the same year as he was elected to the Royal Society. He attained managerial rank and responsibilities in the expanding AEA at a relatively early age, so his career inevitably mirrors the changing tasks and responsibilities of the Authority itself. However, he will be remembered mainly for two outstanding contributions. The first is to the development of gas-cooled reactors in this country. He played a major role in the successful commissioning of the first generation of gas-cooled reactors at Calder Hall and Chapelcross, and later in the introduction of the more efficient advanced gas-cooled reactors, for which he was a persuasive advocate. His second main interest was the development of the fast-neutron fission reactor, a technology in which he became a national and international authority. He saw the introduction of fast reactors as an essential step towards achieving the long-term gains to the national economy from nuclear power that he believed to be both possible and essential.

For a range of precision machining and micromachining operations, the crystallographic anisotropy plays a critical role in determining the machining forces. Part II of this work presents the calibration and validation of the rate-sensitive plasticity-based machining (RSPM) model developed in Part I. The five material parameters, including four hardening parameters and the exponent of rate sensitivity, for both single-crystal aluminum and single-crystal copper are calibrated from the single-crystal plunge-turning data using a Kriging-based minimization approach. Subsequently, the RSPM model is validated by comparing the specific energies obtained from the model to those from a single-crystal cutting test. The RSPM model is seen to capture the experimentally observed variation of specific energies with crystallographic anisotropy (orientation), including the mean value, symmetry, specific trend, amplitude, and phase of the peak specific energy. The effects of lattice rotation, hardening, and material-parameter variations on the predicted specific energies is then analyzed, revealing the importance of both lattice rotation and hardening in accurately capturing the specific energies when cutting single-crystals. Using the RSPM model, the effects of crystallographic orientation, rake angle and friction angle on specific energies are also analyzed. Lastly, a simplified model that uses Merchant’s shear angle, thereby circumventing the minimization procedure, is constructed and evaluated.

The problem of computational analysis of the seismic safety of lifting cranes specified by the regulatory systems (FPP "Safety Rules for dangerous production facilities using Lifting mechanisms" for standard industrial application cranes; Regulation 31.1.02-2004 "Technical operation rules for carrying and lifting equipment in the sea merchant harbors" for harbor cranes; Code of Design-031-01 "Codes of Design of antiseismic atomic power stations" and Code of Design-043-11 "Rules of Design and safe operating hoisting cranes for objects of use of atomic energy" for cranes used at the nuclear facilities) is currently under discussion, despite the emphasis on the part of scientific community. All this has led to carrying out the research which presented a vision of the problems of designing cranes in earthquake-proof design as a finite element theory of structures, and on the basis of methods of the theory of seismic stability of structures - the linear spectral method, according to the Code 14.13330.2014 "Building in earthquake areas" and the method of dynamic analysis, according to Guidelines 1.5.2.05.999.0025-2011 "Calculation and design of earthquake resistant nuclear power plants". The article highlights the trend of recent years of the increasing complexity of calculated finite element models of structures, often combining both finite element models of buildings and supporting structures, and cranes. A computational analysis of such constructions leads to a combination in the design model of finite elements of different dimensions. The article points out that both the choice of the type of finite elements and the way they are connected together within the framework of one calculation model directly affect the reliability of the results obtained. Based on the practical experience of computational analysis of complex spatial engineering structures, the article proposes stiffness and mass matrices for one-, two- and three-dimensional basic finite elements for calculating port lifting structures.

Russell Belk,in an amazing 1995 essay on consumption (where 22 of the 38 pages are references, demonstrating hyper-consumption in action), argues that the 1990s heralded a new understanding of consumer behaviour. In the shifting paradigm identified by Belk, the analytical focus of consumer behaviour research became translated from 'Economic/Psychological' to 'Sociological/Anthropological', and from a 'Focus on buying' to a 'Focus on consuming' (61). This made intuitive sense in a world of postmodern marketing (Brown), and it re-enforced an idea that had been put forward by Dallas Smythe that audiences are sold to advertisers . The value of an audience lies in its potential to consume, and Virginia Nightingale subsequently explored this dynamic in her argument that consumption is work: "It is because of the relationship between advertising and television that watching television is work. Watching television is a leisure activity in the pursuit of which viewers are asked to lose themselves, to blur the distinctions between reality and fantasy. They are asked to forget that watching television is also work, to see television advertisements not as a continual reminder of the work of purchasing, but as entertainment. They are asked to believe that what they see on television is what they want to see, specially selected to please them." (33-4) Nightingale had previously argued that consumption in the domestic context was not only work, but quintessentially women'swork: Commercial television is an integral part of the modern shopping world. In this age of image advertising, it is from television that the meanings of brands are learned. If women learned to shop in the nineteenth century, they had to be taught to shop for others in the twentieth. The unpredictable woman of the nineteenth century had to be transformed into predictable, programmable 'Mum' one hundred years later. The branding of food commodities and the establishment of television as an efficient system of brand information assisted a change in the mode of address of the shopping world to women purchasers. In the cut-price world of the 50s and 60s seduction was out and value was in. In a shopping world of comparable brands, Mum has to learn not only the meaning, the lifestyle connotations of branded products from television advertising, but their meanings for the members of the family destined to consume her purchases (33). This way of looking at the world although illuminating begged the question as to an appropriate definition of work. Why did watching television seem so much less like work than, say, typing an article, or working as a waiter? Staying alive breathing, metabolising requires work at some level; what differentiates the 'going to work' side of working: and how does this relate to a consumer society which (as Belk identifies) increasingly involves an emphasis upon consumption rather than production? Greg Hearn, Tom Mandeville and David Anthony estimate that "consumption now accounts for about 60 per cent of GDP ... mass communication, advertising and the consumer economy form a nexus that is centrally implicated in the operation of Western societies" (104). They go on to argue that the "central assertion of postmodern views of consumption is that social identity can be interpreted as a function of consumption" (106). Citing Lunt and Livingstone, Hearn et al. suggest that "fuelled by their ability to modify and process the building blocks of identity (images, visual codes, phrases and ideas), our current mass media, via identity construction, have expanded consumption in advanced industrial societies" (107). Identity construction, however, is a given of existence it is impossible to live without some kind of identity, and impossible to adopt an identity in a vacuum, with no relationship to the social world in which the individual lives. Given that identity-construction is a necessity of existence, and will also necessarily reflect an individual's social practices and their consumption characteristics, can it be seen as 'work'? (And, if not, why not?) One way this problem can be investigated is through changes in work patterns in contemporary societies. Among the most dramatic socio-economic developments of the past two generations has been the changing role of women in the workforce. Some women still in employment are members of the generation which, as recently as the 1960s, were obliged to surrender their jobs upon marriage. Many were subsequently re-employed on a casual basis, but others were unable to resume a career of any sort given that they now had 'family responsibilities' (even if that 'family responsibility' was their spouse alone). The reason behind the compulsory female resignations was the patriarchal view that it was the husband's role to provide financially for his wife. For a married woman to hold a job was akin to double dipping the job was there to support a woman who had no husband to support her; or for a man with a wife (and sometimes other family) to provide for. When women successfully campaigned against this discriminatory practice, and later in favour of equal pay for equal work, the ultimate result was that the real wages of men fell. Two-income families do not earn twice a 'living' wage; they earn a living wage between them. The advent of equal pay for women means that only a small proportion of women (or men) have the choice of making domestic and community-based unwaged labour the focus of their daily life, without the effect of this choice being a much smaller financial engagement in consumer society. The gender dimension to money-earning remains considerable, even in this age of equal opportunity legislation. In particular, the 'wages for housework' campaign has been all but lost over the past thirty years. Further, although it is now unlawful for women to receive less money than their male counterparts for equal work, women's average pay continues to lag significantly behind that of men (WEL). This is one way of demonstrating that traditional women's work tends to be less well paid than men's work. Nursing, teaching and office work all remain low-paid compared with executive occupations, although compulsory post-schooling study requirements might be higher in the female areas. And it is commonplace to note that in traditionally female occupations (like primary school teaching) although males might be out-numbered 5:1 it tends to be a man who gets promoted. (Less a case of the glass ceiling: more a case of the invisible escalator.) In capitalist societies, the original source of monetary wealth lies in power the power to control labour/work for the profit of an individual other than the labourer. This is a hangover from feudal agrarianism, and a precursor to the information age (Bell). In all human society, power confers advantage, including the capacity to direct the work of others. While this was true of the feudal lord, the merchant prince and the early industrialist, it achieved its purest form with the introduction of monetary rewards for labour. Frederic Jameson (77) comments that: "technology may well serve as adequate shorthand to designate that enormous properly human and anti-natural power of dead human labour stored up in our machinery, an alienated power, what Sartre calls the counterfinality of the practico-inert, which turns back on and against us in unrecognizable forms and seems to constitute the massive dystopian horizon of our collective as well as our individual praxis." What Jameson says of technology in general would be equally true of the particular technology of money. Accumulated capital, and its constituent parts of coins, notes, currencies and data sets represents 'dead human labour', in the sense of work expended in the past in the production of goods and services. It is this stored human labour which buys the carrots, or the magazine subscription, and which represents an exchange for the time and energy that would have been required to grow the carrots, or produce the magazine. Similarly, the income paid to the carrot-grower, the journalist, the designer and the advertiser represents to them a distilled recompense for their work. Arguably, the energy that produced the labour for which one is paid is 'dead' energy controlled by another and exchanged for money. At an individual level, the roles played in the personaeof a person earning money, or a person spending money (a common indication of consumption) are very different: with the role of the person earning money much more circumscribed. Joshua Meyrowitz (29-31) spends some time in explaining Goffman's analysis of the roles of the waiter, using metaphors from drama of front/back region/stage: Waiters for example are in a front region when they serve people in a restaurant dining room. In the front region waiters are usually polite and respectful. Their appearance and manner is one of cleanliness and efficiency. They do not enter into the dinner conversations of restaurant patrons. They do not comment on their customers' eating habits or table manners. They rarely, if ever, eat while in the sight of patrons. When waiters step from the dining room into the kitchen, however, they suddenly cross a line between the onstage and backstage areas. In the kitchen waiters are in an area which is hidden from the audience and they share this area with others who perform the same or similar roles vis-a-vis the audience. Here, then, waiters may make remarks to each other about the 'strange behaviour of the people at table seven', they may imitate a customer, or give advice to a 'rookie' on methods of getting big tips. In the kitchen food may be handled and discussed with somewhat less respect than in the dining room, and waiters may 'get out of costume' or sit in a sloppy position with their feet up on a counter... We expect to be treated differently in a restaurant than in a doctor's office. We expect the doctor to appear confident, concerned, patient and professional and slightly superior. We expect a waitress to be efficient, respectful and nonintrusive. And we demand these differences in 'character' even if the waitress is a student earning her way through medical school. This analysis indicates that where behaviour is related to money where a person is paid to fulfil a role; the production of the goods or services the behaviour is more constrained and circumscribed by the expectations of the employer/consumer. The behaviour of people who are paying for a service, whose intention is to consume, is the least constrained. It may be that Kerry Packer has awful table manners, but few restauranteurs would fail to be pleased to see him walking through their door. At the level of the individual producer/consumer in consumer societies, money is seen to exert decisive control in the lives of workers. Is it possible to think of a better, less obviously coercive way to get people into cars, and onto freeways and clocking into the office on such a regular, reliable basis: other than their being paid to do so? American academic Camille Paglia does not think so: "Capitalism, whatever its problems, remains the most efficient economic mechanism yet devised to bring the highest quality of life to the greatest number... Because I have studied the past, I know that, in America and under capitalism, I am the freest woman in history" (Menand 27). Paglia obviously considers herself sufficiently well paid. Since access to money limits access to goods, to some experiences and to travel, money is a potent incentive to behave in a way that is rewarded by society. Even so, not everyone is able to exhibit the work behaviour that social systems are most inclined to reward. The stresses of unemployment lie in its curtailing of options; in its implications for health, housing, leisure, and educational opportunities; and in the fact that the need to get more money monopolises the time of the unemployed. The old adage 'time is money' is only partly true. In some respects the two share an inverse relationship: 'free' time is inversely related to money. For the vast majority of the population, the opportunity to convert work/labour into money significantly limits the time available in which to enjoy consuming the rewards for their labours. When people have 'free' time, it is frequently because the opportunity to earn money by the production of goods and services is absent. Consequently possible consumption activities are also severely limited. There are no hard and fast rules in Jameson's late capitalist society, but the general case might be that we are paid to produce goods, services and information through our controlled work, while consumption is generally constructed as a voluntary activity. It is partly that voluntariness which implicates consumption in identity construction, makes it an expression of individual difference, and renders it potentially pleasurable. Arguably, however, the voluntary nature of consumption together with the impossibility of notconsuming prevents it from being categorised unambiguously as 'work'. The relationship of work to money helps explain why it may be work to watch television, but it's a different kind of work from that performed at the Coles check-out. Identity-construction may be a major consumer project using raw materials provided by the mass media, but it is not work we're paid to do. No-one else is prepared to use their stored labour to recompense us for our everyday work as non-professional television viewers, or for our project of self-individuation as expressed through the production of our personal identity. References Belk, Russell. "Studies in the New Consumer Behaviour." Acknowledging Consumption: A Review of New Studies. Ed. D. Miller. London: Routledge, 1995. 58-95. Bell, Daniel. The Coming of the Post-Industrial Society. Rev. ed. New York: Basic Books, 1999. Brown, Stephen. Postmodern Marketing. London: Routledge, 1995. Goffman, Erving. Frame Analysis: An Essay on the Organisation of Experience. New York: Harper and Row, 1974. Hearn, Greg, Tom Mandeville and David Anthony. The Communication Superhighway: Social and Economic Change in the Digital Age. Sydney: Allen & Unwin, 1997. Jameson, Frederic. "Postmodernism, or the Cultural Logic of Late Capitalism." New Left Review146 (1984): 53-92. Lunt, Peter, and Sonia Livingstone. Mass Consumption and Personal Identity: Everyday Economic Experience. Milton Keynes: Open UP, 1992. Menand, Louis. "Sexual Politics with Snap, Crackle and Pure Paglian Pop." The Australian3 Feb. 1993: 27. Meyrowitz, Joshua. No Sense of Place. New York: Oxford UP, 1995. Nightingale, Virginia. "Women as Audiences." Television and Women's Culture: The Politics of the Popular. Ed. M.-E. Brown. Sydney: Currency Press, 1990. 25-36. Smythe, Dallas. Dependency Road. New Jersey: Ablex, 1981. WEL. 12 Nov. 2001 <http://www.wel.org.au/policy/00pol1.htm>. Links http://www.wlu.ca/~wwwpress/jrls/cjc/BackIssues/17.4/melody.html http://www.onemoreweb.com/soapbox/paglia.html http://www.wel.org.au/policy/00pol1.htm http://www.business.utah.edu/~mktrwb/ http://prelectur.stanford.edu/lecturers/jameson/ Citation reference for this article MLA Style Green, Lelia. "The Work of Consumption: Why Aren't We Paid?" M/C: A Journal of Media and Culture 4.5 (2001). [your date of access] < http://www.media-culture.org.au/0111/Green.xml >. Chicago Style Green, Lelia, "The Work of Consumption: Why Aren't We Paid?" M/C: A Journal of Media and Culture 4, no. 5 (2001), < http://www.media-culture.org.au/0111/Green.xml > ([your date of access]). APA Style Green, Lelia. (2001) The Work of Consumption: Why Aren't We Paid?. M/C: A Journal of Media and Culture 4(5). < http://www.media-culture.org.au/0111/Green.xml > ([your date of access]).

IntroductionIn March 2015, I visited the Lambing Flat Folk Museum (established 1967) in the “cherry capital of Australia”, the town of Young, New South Wales, in preparation for a student excursion. Like other Australian folk museums, this museum focuses on the ordinary and the everyday of rural life, and is heavily reliant on local history, local historians, volunteers, and donated objects for the collection. It may not sound as though the Lambing Flat Folk Museum (LFFM) holds much potential for a fashion curator, as fashion exhibitions have become high points of innovation in exhibition design. It is quite a jolt to return to old style folk museums, when travelling shows such as Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (Metropolitan Museum of Art 2011 – V&A Museum 2015) or The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier (V&A Museum 2011­ – NGV 2014) are popping up around the globe. The contrast stimulated this author to think on the role and the power of curators. This paper will show that the potential for fashion as a vehicle for demonstrating ideas other than through rubrics of design or history has been growing. We all wear dress. We express identity, politics, status, age, gender, social values, and mental state through the way we dress each and every day. These key issues are also explored in many museum exhibitions.Small museums often have an abundance of clothing. For them, it is a case of not only managing and caring for growing collections but also curating objects in a way that communicates regional and often national identity, as well as narrating stories in meaningful ways to audiences. This paper argues that the way in which dress is curated can greatly enhance temporary and permanent exhibitions. Fashion curation is on the rise (Riegels Melchior). This paper looks at why this is so, the potential for this specialisation in curation, the research required, and the sensitivity needed in communicating ideas in exhibitions. It also suggests how fashion curation skills may facilitate an increasing demand.Caring for the AudienceThe paper draws on a case study of how Chinese people at the LFFM are portrayed. The Chinese came to the Young district during the 1860s gold rush. While many people often think the Chinese were sojourners (Rolls), that is, they found gold and returned to China, many actually settled in regional Australia (McGowan; Couchman; Frost). At Young there were riots against the Chinese miners, and this narrative is illustrated at the museum.In examining the LFFM, this paper points to the importance of caring for the audience as well as objects, knowing and acknowledging the current and potential audiences. Caring for how the objects are received and perceived is vital to the work of curators. At this museum, the stereotypic portrayal of Chinese people, through a “coolie” hat, a fan, and two dolls dressed in costume, reminds us of the increased professionalisation of the museum sector in the last 20 years. It also reminds us of the need for good communication through both the objects and texts. Audiences have become more sophisticated, and their expectations have increased. Displays and accompanying texts that do not reflect in depth research, knowledge, and sensitivities can result in viewers losing interest quickly. Not long into my visit I began thinking of the potential reaction by the Chinese graduate students. In a tripartite model called the “museum experience”, Falk and Dierking argue that the social context, personal context, and physical context affect the visitor’s experience (5). The social context of who we visit with influences enjoyment. Placing myself in the students’ shoes sharpened reactions to some of the displays. Curators need to be mindful of a wide range of audiences. The excursion was to be not so much a history learning activity, but a way for students to develop a personal interest in museology and to learn the role museums can play in society in general, as well as in small communities. In this case the personal context was also a professional context. What message would they get?Communication in MuseumsStudies by Falk et al. indicate that museum visitors only view an exhibition for 30 minutes before “museum fatigue” sets in (249–257). The physicality of being in a museum can affect the museum experience. Hence, many institutions responded to these studies by placing the key information and objects in the introductory areas of an exhibition, before the visitor gets bored. As Stephen Bitgood argues, this can become self-fulfilling, as the reaction by the exhibition designers can then be to place all the most interesting material early in the path of the audience, leaving the remainder as mundane displays (196). Bitgood argues there is no museum fatigue. He suggests that there are other things at play which curators need to heed, such as giving visitors choice and opportunities for interaction, and avoiding overloading the audience with information and designing poorly laid-out exhibitions that have no breaks or resting points. All these factors contribute to viewers becoming both mentally and physically tired. Rather than placing the onus on the visitor, he contends there are controllable factors the museum can attend to. One of his recommendations is to be provocative in communication. Stimulating exhibitions are more likely to engage the visitor, minimising boredom and tiredness (197). Xerxes Mazda recommends treating an exhibition like a good story, with a beginning, a dark moment, a climax, and an ending. The LFFM certainly has those elements, but they are not translated into curation that gives a compelling narration that holds the visitors’ attention. Object labels give only rudimentary information, such as: “Wooden Horse collar/very rare/donated by Mr Allan Gordon.” Without accompanying context and engaging language, many visitors could find it difficult to relate to, and actively reflect on, the social narrative that the museum’s objects could reflect.Text plays an important role in museums, particularly this museum. Communication skills of the label writers are vital to enhancing the museum visit. Louise Ravelli, in writing on museum texts, states that “communication needs to be more explicit and more reflexive—to bring implicit assumptions to the surface” (3). This is particularly so for the LFFM. Posing questions and using an active voice can provoke the viewer. The power of text can be seen in one particular museum object. In the first gallery is a banner that contains blatant racist text. Bringing racism to the surface through reflexive labelling can be powerful. So for this museum communication needs to be sensitive and informative, as well as pragmatic. It is not just a case of being reminded that Australia has a long history of racism towards non-Anglo Saxon migrants. A sensitive approach in label-writing could ask visitors to reflect on Australia’s long and continued history of racism and relate it to the contemporary migration debate, thereby connecting the present day to dark historical events. A question such as, “How does Australia deal with racism towards migrants today?” brings issues to the surface. Or, more provocatively, “How would I deal with such racism?” takes the issue to a personal level, rather than using language to distance the issue of racism to a national issue. Museums are more than repositories of objects. Even a small underfunded museum can have great impact on the viewer through the language they use to make meaning of their display. The Lambing Flat Roll-up Banner at the LFFMThe “destination” object of the museum in Young is the Lambing Flat Roll-up Banner. Those with a keen interest in Australian history and politics come to view this large sheet of canvas that elicits part of the narrative of the Lambing Flat Riots, which are claimed to be germane to the White Australia Policy (one of the very first pieces of legislation after the Federation of Australia was The Immigration Restriction Act 1901).On 30 June 1861 a violent anti-Chinese riot occurred on the goldfields of Lambing Flat (now known as Young). It was the culmination of eight months of growing conflict between European and Chinese miners. Between 1,500 and 2,000 Europeans lived and worked in these goldfields, with little government authority overseeing the mining regulations. Earlier, in November 1860, a group of disgruntled European miners marched behind a German brass band, chasing off 500 Chinese from the field and destroying their tents. Tensions rose and fell until the following June, when the large banner was painted and paraded to gather up supporters: “…two of their leaders carrying in advance a magnificent flag, on which was written in gold letters – NO CHINESE! ROLL UP! ROLL UP! ...” (qtd. in Coates 40). Terrified, over 1,270 Chinese took refuge 20 kilometres away on James Roberts’s property, “Currawong”. The National Museum of Australia commissioned an animation of the event, The Harvest of Endurance. It may seem obvious, but the animators indicated the difference between the Chinese and the Europeans through dress, regardless that the Chinese wore western dress on the goldfields once the clothing they brought with them wore out (McGregor and McGregor 32). Nonetheless, Chinese expressions of masculinity differed. Their pigtails, their shoes, and their hats were used as shorthand in cartoons of the day to express the anxiety felt by many European settlers. A more active demonstration was reported in The Argus: “ … one man … returned with eight pigtails attached to a flag, glorifying in the work that had been done” (6). We can only imagine this trophy and the de-masculinisation it caused.The 1,200 x 1,200 mm banner now lays flat in a purpose-built display unit. Viewers can see that it was not a hastily constructed work. The careful drafting of original pencil marks can be seen around the circus styled font: red and blue, with the now yellow shadowing. The banner was tied with red and green ribbon of which small remnants remain attached.The McCarthy family had held the banner for 100 years, from the riots until it was loaned to the Royal Australian Historical Society in November 1961. It was given to the LFFM when it opened six years later. The banner is given key positioning in the museum, indicating its importance to the community and its place in the region’s memory. Just whose memory is narrated becomes apparent in the displays. The voice of the Chinese is missing.Memory and Museums Museums are interested in memory. When visitors come to museums, the work they do is to claim, discover, and sometimes rekindle memory (Smith; Crane; Williams)—-and even to reshape memory (Davidson). Fashion constantly plays with memory: styles, themes, textiles, and colours are repeated and recycled. “Cutting and pasting” presents a new context from one season to the next. What better avenue to arouse memory in museums than fashion curation? This paper argues that fashion exhibitions fit within the museum as a “theatre of memory”, where social memory, commemoration, heritage, myth, fantasy, and desire are played out (Samuels). In the past, institutions and fashion curators often had to construct academic frameworks of “history” or “design” in order to legitimise fashion exhibitions as a serious pursuit. Exhibitions such as Fashion and Politics (New York 2009), Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism (Oslo 2014) and Fashion as Social Energy (Milan 2015) show that fashion can explore deeper social concerns and political issues.The Rise of Fashion CuratorsThe fashion curator is a relative newcomer. What would become the modern fashion curator made inroads into museums through ethnographic and anthropological collections early in the 20th century. Fashion as “history” soon followed into history and social museums. Until the 1990s, the fashion curator in a museum was seen as, and closely associated with, the fashion historian or craft curator. It could be said that James Laver (1899–1975) or Stella Mary Newton (1901–2001) were the earliest modern fashion curators in museums. They were also fashion historians. However, the role of fashion curator as we now know it came into its own right in the 1970s. Nadia Buick asserts that the first fashion exhibition, Fashion: An Anthology by Cecil Beaton, was held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, curated by the famous fashion photographer Cecil Beaton. He was not a museum employee, a trained curator, or even a historian (15). The museum did not even collect contemporary fashion—it was a new idea put forward by Beaton. He amassed hundreds of pieces of fashion items from his friends of elite society to complement his work.Radical changes in museums since the 1970s have been driven by social change, new expectations and new technologies. Political and economic pressures have forced museum professionals to shift their attention from their collections towards their visitors. There has been not only a growing number of diverse museums but also a wider range of exhibitions, fashion exhibitions included. However, as museums and the exhibitions they mount have become more socially inclusive, this has been somewhat slow to filter through to the fashion exhibitions. I assert that the shift in fashion exhibitions came as an outcome of new writing on fashion as a social and political entity through Jennifer Craik’s The Face of Fashion. This book has had an influence, beyond academic fashion theorists, on the way in which fashion exhibitions are curated. Since 1997, Judith Clark has curated landmark exhibitions, such as Malign Muses: When Fashion Turns Back (Antwerp 2004), which examine the idea of what fashion is rather than documenting fashion’s historical evolution. Dress is recognised as a vehicle for complex issues. It is even used to communicate a city’s cultural capital and its metropolitan modernity as “fashion capitals” (Breward and Gilbert). Hence the reluctant but growing willingness for dress to be used in museums to critically interrogate, beyond the celebratory designer retrospectives. Fashion CurationFashion curators need to be “brilliant scavengers” (Peoples). Curators such as Clark pick over what others consider as remains—the neglected, the dissonant—bringing to the fore what is forgotten, where items retrieved from all kinds of spheres are used to fashion exhibitions that reflect the complex mix of the tangible and intangible that is present in fashion. Allowing the brilliant scavengers to pick over the flotsam and jetsam of everyday life can make for exciting exhibitions. Clothing of the everyday can be used to narrate complex stories. We only need think of the black layette worn by Baby Azaria Chamberlain—or the shoe left on the tarmac at Darwin Airport, having fallen off the foot of Mrs Petrov, wife of the Russian diplomat, as she was forced onto a plane. The ordinary remnants of the Chinese miners do not appear to have been kept. Often, objects can be transformed by subsequent significant events.Museums can be sites of transformation for its audiences. Since the late 1980s, through the concept of the New Museum (Vergo), fashion as an exhibition theme has been used to draw in wider museum audiences and to increase visitor numbers. The clothing of Vivienne Westwood, (34 Years in Fashion 2005, NGA) Kylie Minogue (Kylie: An Exhibition 2004­–2005, Powerhouse Museum), or Princess Grace (Princess Grace: Style Icon 2012, Bendigo Art Gallery) drew in the crowds, quantifying the relevance of museums to funding bodies. As Marie Riegels Melchior notes, fashion is fashionable in museums. What is interesting is that the New Museum’s refrain of social inclusion (Sandell) has yet to be wholly embraced by art museums. There is tension between the fashion and museum worlds: a “collision of the fashion and art worlds” (Batersby). Exhibitions of elite designer clothing worn by celebrities have been seen as very commercial operations, tainting the intellectual and academic reputations of cultural institutions. What does fashion curation have to do with the banner mentioned previously? It would be miraculous for authentic clothing worn by Chinese miners to surface now. In revising the history of Lambing Flat, fashion curators need to employ methodologies of absence. As Clynk and Peoples have shown, by examining archives, newspaper advertisements, merchants’ account books, and other material that incidentally describes the business of clothing, absence can become present. While the later technology of photography often shows “Sunday best” fashions, it also illustrates the ordinary and everyday dress of Chinese men carrying out business transactions (MacGowan; Couchman). The images of these men bring to mind the question: were these the children of men, or indeed the men themselves, who had their pigtails violently cut off years earlier? The banner was also used to show that there are quite detailed accounts of events from local and national newspapers of the day. These are accessible online. Accounts of the Chinese experience may have been written up in Chinese newspapers of the day. Access to these would be limited, if they still exist. Historian Karen Schamberger reminds us of the truism: “history is written by the victors” in her observations of a re-enactment of the riots at the Lambing Flat Festival in 2014. The Chinese actors did not have speaking parts. She notes: The brutal actions of the European miners were not explained which made it easier for audience members to distance themselves from [the Chinese] and be comforted by the actions of a ‘white hero’ James Roberts who… sheltered the Chinese miners at the end of the re-enactment. (9)Elsewhere, just out of town at the Chinese Tribute Garden (created in 1996), there is evidence of presence. Plaques indicating donors to the garden carry names such as Judy Chan, Mrs King Chou, and Mr and Mrs King Lam. The musically illustrious five siblings of the Wong family, who live near Young, were photographed in the Discover Central NSW tourist newspaper in 2015 as a drawcard for the Lambing Flat Festival. There is “endurance”, as the title of NMA animation scroll highlights. Conclusion Absence can be turned around to indicate presence. The “presence of absence” (Meyer and Woodthorpe) can be a powerful tool. Seeing is the pre-eminent sense used in museums, and objects are given priority; there are ways of representing evidence and narratives, and describing relationships, other than fashion presence. This is why I argue that dress has an important role to play in museums. Dress is so specific to time and location. It marks specific occasions, particularly at times of social transitions: christening gowns, bar mitzvah shawls, graduation gowns, wedding dresses, funerary shrouds. Dress can also demonstrate the physicality of a specific body: in the extreme, jeans show the physicality of presence when the body is removed. The fashion displays in the museum tell part of the region’s history, but the distraction of the poor display of the dressed mannequins in the LFFM gets in the way of a “good story”.While rioting against the Chinese miners may cause shame and embarrassment, in Australia we need to accept that this was not an isolated event. More formal, less violent, and regulated mechanisms of entry to Australia were put in place, and continue to this day. It may be that a fashion curator, a brilliant scavenger, may unpick the prey for viewers, placing and spacing objects and the visitor, designing in a way to enchant or horrify the audience, and keeping interest alive throughout the exhibition, allowing spaces for thinking and memories. Drawing in those who have not been the audience, working on the absence through participatory modes of activities, can be powerful for a community. Fashion curators—working with the body, stimulating ethical and conscious behaviours, and constructing dialogues—can undoubtedly act as a vehicle for dynamism, for both the museum and its audiences. 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