Journal articles on the topic 'Grape juice – Analysis; Viticulture; Wine and wine making – Analysis'

One of the results of the “Research Project for the Study of Georgian Grapes and Wine Culture” promoted by the National Wine Agency of the Republic of Georgia was the production of a bilingual handbook for modern viticulture. The first sections of the handbook were devoted to the agrometeorological analysis of environmental resources and limitations, comprising a general analysis of Georgian climate and agrometeorological features, followed by detailed regional cards. The agrometeorological analysis of Georgia was based on daily data collected by National and International networks for the period 1974-2013. Several agrometeorological indexes were calculated in order to define resources and limitations for viticulture for each viticultural region of Georgia, providing fundamental information for grape-growing and wine-making.

Photoselective shading is a process that modulates the radiation intensity in specific regions of the electromagnetic spectrum. It is a common practice in horticulture to manipulate specific plant physiological responses, but to date has only received minimal attention in viticulture. The potent odorant 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene (TDN) is of particular relevance for aged Riesling wine, which are also known to be impacted by the magnitude of bunch zone light exposure during berry development. Hence, in this study, the effect of photoselective bunch zone shading on the formation of TDN in wine was investigated across two consecutive growing seasons. Applying red, black or green shade cloth (SC) to the bunch zone provided unique bunch zone light environments and yielded distinct differences in grape and wine composition compared with the unshaded control. Overall, bunch zone shading through shade cloth was effective in reducing overall photosynthetically active radiation compared to the control and the photoselectivity of the SC treatments differently affected a number of grape and wine measures. Fruit yield was somewhat but not significantly lower under black SC treatments, while juice pH was increased in grapes grown under green and black SC across both vintages compared to the control. Both grape sugar accumulation (P = 0.035) and ammonia nitrogen (P = 0.043) showed evidence of treatment effects, although with low F-statistics (4 and 3, respectively). Measures of hydrolytically released TDN in juice and free TDN concentrations in wine were lower in SC treatments. Unexpectedly, sensory descriptive analysis of the wines demonstrated that increased ‘kerosene-like’ aroma was not consistently associated with free TDN concentrations in wine. In summary, photoselective bunch shading was demonstrated to be an effective method for manipulating grape and wine outcomes and may aid in overcoming viticultural obstacles and quality impacts associated with climate change.

Phenolic levels have been analyzed in several grape cultivars that are suited for growing in southeastern Nebraska. The phenolic levels of these cultivars are not known to have been previously published. The polyphenol content of fruits and fruit products such as wine have been shown to be directly correlated to the antioxidant potential of the product. Antioxidants help to prevent the effects of aging and age-associated diseases. The grape cultivars in the study are grown primarily for wine production, but also as fresh table grapes and for making juice and jellies. The total phenolic content is being analyzed by the Folin-Ciocalteu method. Of the red grapes, `St. Croix' and `Frontenac' have the highest levels of polyphenols, followed by `Chambourcin' and `deChaunac', with levels varying from 1.4–4.9 mg·g-1 (polyphenols/grape), measured as gallic acid equivalents (GAE). The white grapes `Vignoles' and `LaCrosse' have total phenolic levels of 1.4 to 2.2 mg·g-1 (polyphenols/grape), also measured as gallic acid equivalents (GAE).

The analysis of the trace elements has been shown to be a valuable tool to discriminate wines according to their region of origin. As, Ba, Ca, Co, Cr, Li, Mg, Rb, Sn, Sr, and V were selected as specific markers indicating the origin of Slovak wines according to the vineyard regions. Several factors, such as the environmental contamination, agricultural practices, climatic changes, and others, may markedly change the multielement composition of the wine and may endanger the relationship between the wine and the soil composition. The effect was studied of the viniculture process on the distribution of selected markers in the winemaking products. The main markers pass from the vineyard soil to the grape, and the main portion leaves the winemaking process in the press cake and yeast lees. Very significant correlation of the wine origin markers was found between changed the wine making products and the vineyard soils. The sugar addition to grape juice to some extent the total element compositions of wines but did not result in substantial changes of the markers determining the wine origin.  

In connection with the creation of the subprogram for the development of viticulture in the framework of the Federal scientific and technical program for the development of agriculture for 2017-2025 the analysis of foreign experience in supporting this sub-sector is relevant. The countries of the European Union (EU) are collectively the main producers, consumers and exporters of grape wine in the world. The goal of the EU viticulture support system is to bring the wine-growing and wine-making sector to structural change that are protected from a permanent market crisis. Each EU member-state has a budget set by the EU and can choose from the eight areas of support provided (promotion of wine products within the EU and in third-country markets – up to 50 % of regulated expenses; restructuring and rearrangement of wine yards – up to 50-75%; investment in tangible or intangible fixed assets, processing plants, wine infrastructure, marketing structures and tools for the production or sale of wine products – up to 40-75 %; innovation – supports material or non-material investments aimed at developing new products, procedures and technologies that improve the marketing and competitiveness of EU wine products – up to 50-75 % of regulated costs; distillation of by-products of wine in order to eliminate them and thus improve the quality of wines; “green” harvest-destruction of part or complete destruction of unripe grapes in a certain area-up to 50 % of the direct costs of destruction plus loss of income associated with destruction or disposal; mutual funds – for farmers who want to insure against market fluctuations; crop insurance), which must be applied within the framework of national programs to support agricultural industries for a period of five years. Goals, planned results, the range of organizations that can receive this support, the application procedure, eligibility criteria, subsidized and non-subsidized expenses, standard (normative) unit costs, the procedure for selecting applications, priority criteria and appropriate weighting, the timing of payment of subsidies, and advances are defined for each support area.

Making high quality but affordable Pinot noir (PN) wine is challenging in most terroirs and New Zealand (NZ)’s situation is no exception. To increase the probability of making highly typical PN wines, producers choose to grow grapes in cool climates on lower fertility soils while adopting labour intensive practices. Stringent yield targets and higher input costs necessarily mean that PN wine cost is high, and profitability lower, in affordable varietal wine ranges.To understand if higher-yielding vines produce wines of lower quality we have undertaken an extensive study of PN in NZ. Since 2018, we established a network of twelve trial sites in three NZ regions to find individual vines that produced acceptable commercial yields (above 2.0 kg per metre of row) and wines of composition comparable to “Icon” labels. Approximately 20 % of 660 grape lots (N = 135) were selected within a narrow juice Total Soluble Solids (TSS) range of 22.0 ± 1.0 °Brix and made into single-vine wines under controlled conditions.Multiple Factor Analysis of the vine, berry, juice and wine parameters from three vintages found grape Berry Weight to be the most effective clustering variable. As the Berry Weight category decreased, there was a systematic increase in the probability of higher berry red colour and total phenolics with a parallel increase in wine phenolics and decreased juice amino acids. The influence of berry weight on wine composition would appear stronger than the individual effects of Vintage, Region, Vineyard or vine Yield. Our observations support the hypothesis that it is possible to produce PN wines that fall within an “Icon” benchmark composition range at yields above 2.5 kg per vine, provided that the Leaf Area:Fruit Weight ratio is above 11 cm2 per g, mean berry weight is below 1.2 g and juice TSS is above 22 °Brix.

Abstract. The adoption of precision agriculture in viticulture could be greatly enhanced by the diffusion of straightforward and easy to be applied hydropedological models, able to predict the spatial variability of available soil water. The Lin's and Host hydropedological models were applied to standard soil series descriptions and hillslope position, to predict the distribution of hydrological functional units in two vineyard and their relevance for grape yield and wine quality. A three-years trial was carried out in Chianti (Central Italy) on Sangiovese. The soils of the vineyards differentiated in structure, porosity and related hydropedological characteristics, as well as in salinity. Soil spatial variability was deeply affected by earth movement carried out before vine plantation. Six plots were selected in the different hydrological functional units of the two vineyards, that is, at summit, backslope and footslope morphological positions, to monitor soil hydrology, grape production and wine quality. Plot selection was based upon a cluster analysis of local slope, topographic wetness index (TWI), and cumulative moisture up to the root limiting layer, appreciated by means of a detailed combined geophysical survey. Water content, redox processes and temperature were monitored, as well as yield, phenological phases, and chemical analysis of grapes. The isotopic ratio δ13C was measured in the wine ethanol upon harvesting to evaluate the degree of stress suffered by vines. The grapes in each plot were collected for wine making in small barrels. The wines obtained were analysed and submitted to a blind organoleptic testing. The results demonstrated that the combined application of the two hydropedological models can be used for the prevision of the moisture status of soils cultivated with grape during summertime in Mediterranean climate. As correctly foreseen by the models, the amount of mean daily transpirable soil water (TSW) during the growing season differed considerably between the vineyards and increased significantly along the three positions on slope in both vineyards. The water accumulation along slope occurred in every year, even during the very dry 2006. The installation of indicators of reduction in soils (IRIS) tubes allowed confirmation of the occurrence of reductive processes in the most shallow soil. Both Sangiovese grape yield and quality of wine were influenced by the interaction between TSW content and salinity, sometimes contrary to expectations. Therefore, the studied hydropedological models were not relevant to predict grape yield and wine quality in all the hydrological functional units. The diffusion of hydropedological models in precision viticulture could be boosted considering salinity along with topography and soil hydrological characteristics.

The aim of the study was to identify the ecological indicators that facilitate predictive analysis and to search for patterns in local geographical information to identify risks and opportunities in viticulture. The study focused on environmental factors that significantly affect the ripeness of the Gewürztraminer grape variety cultivated near Tramin, a village in northern Italy. In particular, the reliability of the new Solar Radiation Identity (SRI) topoclimate classification method was tested, along with its predictive capability in terms of the biosynthetic activity of the vine and the quality of its grapes. The SRI index characterises each vineyard in a precise and comparable way and helps to understand the way in which the topoclimate acts as an important abiotic stress factor for vines. A direct relationship between grape must sugar content and the SRI topoclimate index was observed. Our findings indicate an increase in sugar content of approximately 0.8 °KMW for every 10 points of the SRI index. Thus, a novel prediction model of grape ripening based on an SRI curve analysis is proposed. The correct application of the SRI index could be useful for discriminating and predicting geographical charactersitics of a given area strongly connected to ecological diversity and wine quality. It could support decision making in viticulture in terms of, for example, correctly matching vineyard and grape varieties, reducing wine vulnerability and production risk and predicting optimal ripeness and harvesting days. The use of the SRI prediction curve could help in adopting a more sustainable approach to agriculture and in finding new methods for adapting to climate change, such as by improving the match between the cultivars’ phenological status, vineyard location and growing season average temperature.

Chemical analysis of grape juice and wine has been performed for over 50 years in a targeted manner to determine a limited number of compounds using Gas Chromatography, Mass-Spectrometry (GC-MS) and High Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Therefore, it only allowed the determination of metabolites that are present in high concentration, including major sugars, amino acids and some important carboxylic acids. Thus, the roles of many significant but less concentrated metabolites during wine making process are still not known. This is where metabolomics shows its enormous potential, mainly because of its capability in analyzing over 1000 metabolites in a single run due to the recent advancements of high resolution and sensitive analytical instruments. Metabolomics has predominantly been adopted by many wine scientists as a hypothesis-generating tool in an unbiased and non-targeted way to address various issues, including characterization of geographical origin (terroir) and wine yeast metabolic traits, determination of biomarkers for aroma compounds, and the monitoring of growth developments of grape vines and grapes. The aim of this review is to explore the published literature that made use of both targeted and untargeted metabolomics to study grapes and wines and also the fermentation process. In addition, insights are also provided into many other possible avenues where metabolomics shows tremendous potential as a question-driven approach in grape and wine research.

The article aims to study the theoretical and methodological principles and develop practical recommendations on the marketing aspect of innovative wineries. The paper studies the essence of marketing approach to the development of innovative wineries. The analysis of export-import activities wine industry, assess the dynamics of capacity and degree of market opening. It is proved that the regulatory impact on the development of viticulture and wine-making should focus on the one hand, the direct work with the consumer, creating its national consciousness and awareness of domestic production of the wine industry, on the other - Restructuring imports. Development of state support for the wine industry Ukraine, taking into account international experience is an important impetus for the formation of the market grape and its products, characterized by a tendency to loss. The observed trend of price advantage of imports over exports, of course, requires special measures to counter. It is proved that a necessary means of promoting national product of the wine industry both in domestic and foreign market is the innovative marketing tools, marketing concept, which is based on the formation of the latest image system views and beliefs, philosophy, politics, marketing wine production Ukraine, forming a brand the use of branding technology that is key to the successful implementation of enterprise development strategy wine industry. The central core of the strategy and implementation of marketing wine industry has become the only regulator. These actions must be integrated to be backed up appropriate mechanisms to ensure, so need attention, both from the state and winemakers interested in promoting the brand in the market through integration of related industries, such as wine tourism.

Abstract. The adoption of precision agriculture in viticulture requires the knowledge of the spatial and temporal variability of available soil water. A three-years trial was carried out in Chianti (central Italy) on Sangiovese vine to test the prediction capacity of selected hydropedological models for two soil series cultivated with grape and for delineating hydrological functional units within two vineyards. The soils of the vineyards differentiated in structure, porosity and related hydropedological characteristics, as well as in salinity. Soils were mapped with a geophysical survey and six plots were selected in different morphological positions: summit, backslope and footslope. Water content, redox processes and temperature were monitored, and yield, phenological phases, and chemical analysis of grapes were determined. The isotopic ratio δ13C was measured in the wine ethanol upon harvesting to evaluate the degree of water stress suffered by vines. The grapes in each plot were collected for wine making in small barrels. The wines obtained were analysed and submitted to a blind organoleptic testing. The results demonstrated that the tested hydropedological models can be used for the prevision of the moisture status of soils cultivated with grape during summertime in Mediterranean climate. As foreseen by the models, the amount of mean daily transpirable soil water differed considerably between the vineyards and increased significantly along the three positions on slope in both vineyards and in every year, even during the very dry 2006. However, both the response of Sangiovese to water stress and the quality of wine were influenced by the interaction between transpirable water and salinity. The installation of IRIS tubes allowed confirmation of the occurrence of redox processes, although discoloration was influenced more by soil temperature, rather than by moisture. The map produced by once only geophysical survey mirrored only partially the seasonal hydropedology of these heavily tilled soils on slope.

Представлены результаты исследований по изучению влияния нагрузки кустов побегами на плодоносность, урожайность растений, качество винограда и вина. Цель работы - установление закономерностей плодоношения, урожайности, качества винограда и вина сорта Первенец Магарача в зависимости от нормы нагрузки. Исследования проведены на корнесобственных виноградниках устойчивого к филлоксере сорта Первенец Магарача (морозостойкость от -22 до -25С), посаженных в 1986 г. по схеме 3 х 1,5 м, расположенных на территории опытного поля ВНИИВиВ им. Я.И. Потапенко (г. Новочеркасск, Ростовская обл.). Форма куста - двусторонний горизонтальный кордон с резервной основой в виде рукава и сучка восстановления. Агротехнические исследования проведены по общепринятым в виноградарстве методикам на промышленных виноградниках опытного поля ВНИИВиВ им. Я.И. Потапенко. Виноград перерабатывали по технологической схеме, принятой для приготовления сухих белых вин, химический анализ сусла и вина проводили в соответствии с методами, принятыми в энологической практике. Испытывали четыре нормы нагрузки побегами: 30, 35, 40 и 45 шт./ куст. По показателям плодоносности выделены варианты с нагрузкой 35 и 40 поб./куст (процент плодоносных побегов - 99 и 100; коэффициент плодоношения (К) - 1,97 и 1,95 соответственно); по количеству урожая выделен вариант с максимальной нагрузкой (45 поб./куст) - 23,1 т/га при самой низкой массовой концентрации сахаров в соке ягод (183 г/дм). Самые высокие значения этого показателя в варианте с самой низкой нагрузкой (30 поб./куст) - 196 г/дм. Показатели концентрации титруемых кислот в соке ягод по всем вариантам опыта были примерно равными. По качеству сусла выявлено снижение всех показателей с повышением нагрузки кустов урожаем. Лучшее вино было получено из винограда с нагрузкой 35 побегов на растение (8,6 балла). The article presents the results of studies on the effect of bush loading with shoots on their fruitfulness, yielding capacity, quality of grapes and wine. The purpose of work is to establish regularities of fruitfulness, yielding capacity, quality of grapes and wine of the variety ‘Pervenets Magaracha’, depending on the loading rate. The research was carried out on vineyards of the variety ‘Pervenets Magaracha’ resistant to phylloxera (frost resistance -22-25°С), planted in 1986 according to the scheme 3 x 1.5 m, located on the territory of experimental field of the Scientific Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking named after Ya.I. Potapenko (Novocherkassk, Rostov region). The bush shape was a two-sided horizontal cordon with a reserve base as a vine arm and a regeneration spur. Agrotechnical studies were carried out according to the generally accepted viticultural methods in the commercial vineyards of the experimental field of Scientific Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking named after Ya.I. Potapenko. Grapes were processed according to the technological scheme adopted for preparation of white dry wines. Chemical analysis of the must and wine was carried out in accordance with the methods adopted in oenological practice. We have tested four rates of loading with shoots: 30, 35, 40 and 45 pcs per bush. The variants of loading 35 and 40 shoots per bush stood out for the parameters of fruitfulness (the percentage of fruiting shoots was 99 and 100; the coefficient of fruiting (K1) - 1.97 and 1.95, respectively). According to the harvest amount- 23.1 t/ha, we selected the variant with the maximum load (45 shots per bush) with the lowest total sugars concentration in the juice of berries (183 g/dm). The highest value of this parameter in the variant with the lowest load (30 shots per bush) was 196 g/dm. Indicators of titratable acid concentration in berry juice for all variants of experiment were approximately the same. The quality of the must revealed a decrease in all parameters with an increase in the bush loading with the harvest. Better wine was obtained from the grape variant with a load of 35 shoots per plant (8.6 points).

The scarcity of water due to climate change is endangering worldwide the production, quality, and economic viability of growing wine grapes. One of the main mitigation measures to be adopted in the viticulture sector will be an adequate irrigation strategy. Irrigation involves an increasing demand for water, a natural limited resource with increasing availability problems for the foreseeable future. Therefore, the development of a precision irrigation system, which is able to manage the efficient use of water and to monitor the crop water stress, is an important research topic for viticulture. This paper, through the analysis of a case study, aims to describe the prototype of a software platform that integrates data coming from different innovative remote and proximal sensors to monitor the hydric stress status of the vineyard. In addition, by using a cost analysis of grape cultivation and implementing economic indices, this study examines the conditions by which irrigation strategies may be economically justified, helping the decision-making process. By combining different sensors, the platform makes it possible to assess the spatial and temporal variability of water in vineyards. In addition, the output data of the platforming, matched with the economic indices, support the decision-making process for winemakers to optimize and schedule water use under water-scarce conditions.

Grape pomace is the major component in grape fruits and is mostly wasted after wine and juice making processes. To recycle the residual biomass in grape pomace, extraction conditions of polysaccharides from grape pomace (GPP) were investigated. Three parameters affecting the crude GPP extraction, material to solvent ratio, extraction time, and extraction temperature were determined through single parameter optimization and then further optimized by orthogonal test. Results showed that the optimum extraction conditions were material to solvent ratio of 1:25, extraction temperature of 75 °C, and extraction time of 40 min, with extraction time as the most significant factor among them. Crude GPP was purified by gel column chromatography and chemically characterized. UV-Vis spectra analysis indicated that the GPP fraction did not contain any proteins or nucleic acids. FT-IR analysis implied that GPP consisted of α- and β-pyranose with carboxyl groups. Monosaccharide composition analysis indicated that GPP was composed of arabinose, glucose, galactose, and mannose with a molar ratio of 18.4:14.1:10.8:3.0. These results provide a theoretic basis for the production and utilization of GPP.

The article considers the legislative and regulatory acts that specify the tasks in the implementation of breeding processes. The results of the creation, variety testing, patenting and introduction of grape varieties and clones into the State Register of the Russian Federation for 2010–2020 are presented. The article analyzes the relationship between the indicators of industrial development with the production volumes of planting material, the use of domestic varieties that are included in the State Register of the Russian Federation. The characteristic of ampelographic collections – the genetic resources of grapes – is given. A comparative analysis of many years’ worth of data on the assessment of the adaptive potential of domestic varieties and introduced varieties is presented. The article describes domestic varieties, from which premium wines are produced, which not only competes with European varieties, but also surpasses the organoleptic properties and biochemical parameters of grape must and wine material. The main problems hindering the wide demand for domestic varieties on the market, including a substantial amount of imported European varietal planting material, are described. The necessity of accelerating breeding processes is actualized, modern methods are identified, including those of generative and genomic selection, transgenic technologies, cellular, mutational, and clone selection, and priority areas in breeding are presented. The numerical and qualitative analyses of the composition of breeding scientists is given, the trends of increasing the number and qualitative composition of breeders, the influx of young people, the growing need for training qualified personnel are noted. The number of bachelor’s, master’s and post-graduate students specializing in viticulture in general and in selection in particular as well as the number of defended dissertation studies on grape breeding has been found to be insufficient. The main scientific and practical problems in the organization and implementation of breeding processes in ensuring the development of the industry are updated, including a low share of domestic varieties in the produced planting material and planting, the lack of a systemically implemented varietal and technological policy, the imperfection of the legal system for the protection of intellectual property, a low availability of instrumentation and analytical equipment for the implementation of breeding by modern methods.

This study aims to i) evaluate some descriptive variables for Grenache berry composition over the last 50 years in the southern Rhône Valley wine-growing region and ii) analyse the impacts of climate on the main annual developmental phases of the Grenache berry to understand recent changes observed in the vineyard. A large and spatialised historical, open database from the Rhône Valley grape maturity network (1969–2020) was used to explore trends in grape profile during maturity and at harvest. Then, gridded climate data was used for processing phenological stages and ecoclimatic indicators. Significant changes in grapevine phenology and maturity dynamics were found and linked with changes to ecoclimatic indicators by carrying out a correlation analysis. Depending on the phenological phases, a limited number of ecoclimatic indicators had a significant effect on the maturity profile. The results highlight direct climate impacts on different maturity and yield variables over the last 50 years. These results provide important information about future issues in grape production and the implications for managing viticulture adaptation strategies and thus serve as a basis for assessing, prioritising and optimising technical means of maintaining current grape quality and yield.This study uses an ecoclimatic approach for examining in detail the effects of climate change on the Grenache grape variety in a Mediterranean context. The open database provides the latest information from a large network of plots and over a long period of time, making it possible to validate many results recorded in the literature. This is the first study to use this open database and we wish this database could lead to further explorations and results in viticulture and climate change issues.

Botrytis cinerea infection of wine grapes can result in a variety of symptoms. The most common symptom is botrytis bunch rot (BBR), where infected berries rot and shrivel, and eventually produce fungal sporulation. Another symptom is slip skin, where the skins of infected ripe berries slide easily from the pulp. It is hypothesised that a reduction in osmotic potential in grape berries due to late-season rainfall leads to slip skin symptom development. Hyphal growth of B. cinerea on osmotically adjusted agar was inhibited at osmotic potentials associated with near-ripe berries. Vine sheltering was used in a research vineyard to manipulate rainfall artificially and to alter berry sugar content in Vitis vinifera Sauvignon blanc vines, with the aim of increasing osmotic potential and altering symptom expression. Both BBR and slip skin symptoms were affected by the various sheltering conditions, with sheltered vines having lower BBR and higher slip skin at harvest. 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Grapevine is one of the major horticultural crops of the world with the cultivated area exceeding 7.5 million ha used for a myriad of products ranging through fresh table grape, preserves, juice, wine, and raisins. The main objective of this study was to introduce twenty-eight grapevine cultivars (ten wild, ten wine, four table, and four raisin grapes) into Gedeo Zone for the first time and ampelographically characterize them in Dilla and Yirgacheffe agroecological conditions in Gedeo Zone, Southern Ethiopia, from August 2018 to July 2021. Ten Vitis abyssinica wild grapevine cultivars were collected from Adama, Addis Ababa, Alamata, Arba Minch, Bahir Dar, Dire Dawa, Gondar, Hawassa, Jimma, and Jinka areas. Additional ten world class wine grapes were gathered from Ziway Castel Winery, and four table and four raisin grapes were also collected from Raya Horti Farm and Koka Vineyard at the same time. The experiment was a 2 × 28 factorial arranged in randomized complete block design (RCBD) with three replications, and data were analyzed using the R-software. The analysis of variance revealed that the interaction of cultivar and location significantly ( P < 0.001 ) affected grapevine plant height, leaf number, number of fruits per plant, and tendril number per vine, while grapevine trunk diameter, flower cluster, root length, and number of suckers per vines were not significantly ( P > 0.05 ) influenced by the interaction of the two factors. Generally, the wine grapevine cultivars had lower canopy such as plant height, leaf number, number of tendrils, and suckering vines while these registered a higher number of fruits per plant, trunk diameter, flower cluster, and root length compared to the wild grapevine cultivars. The results of the present study suggested that Syrah, Chenin Blanc, and Grenache can produce high grapevine berry yield and wine quality in Gedeo Zone agroecology particularly in Dilla location. The wild grapevines collected from Dire Dawa, Arba Minch, Jinka, and Alamata were the potential candidates for the world class wine, raisin, and table grapevines which could open new frontiers in the future for Ethiopian native Vitis abyssinica wild grapevine breeding and genetic engineering that will help to move the national and international viticulture and enology industry forward. As the Ethiopian native grapevines are at the risk of total extinction, adequate conservation strategies are required. Breeding, detailed identification, and introducing the potential grapes in different regions of the country are needed. This finding represents a step forward in efforts to understand hybridization of Vitis abyssinica grapevine with Vitis vinifera and other new world Vitis species.

Yield prediction is crucial for the management of harvest and scheduling wine production operations. Traditional yield prediction methods rely on manual sampling and are time-consuming, making it difficult to handle the intrinsic spatial variability of vineyards. There have been significant advances in automatic yield estimation in vineyards from on-ground imagery, but terrestrial platforms have some limitations since they can cause soil compaction and have problems on sloping and ploughed land. The analysis of photogrammetric point clouds generated with unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV) imagery has shown its potential in the characterization of woody crops, and the point color analysis has been used for the detection of flowers in almond trees. For these reasons, the main objective of this work was to develop an unsupervised and automated workflow for detection of grape clusters in red grapevine varieties using UAV photogrammetric point clouds and color indices. As leaf occlusion is recognized as a major challenge in fruit detection, the influence of partial leaf removal in the accuracy of the workflow was assessed. UAV flights were performed over two commercial vineyards with different grape varieties in 2019 and 2020, and the photogrammetric point clouds generated from these flights were analyzed using an automatic and unsupervised algorithm developed using free software. The proposed methodology achieved R2 values higher than 0.75 between the harvest weight and the projected area of the points classified as grapes in vines when partial two-sided removal treatment, and an R2 of 0.82 was achieved in one of the datasets for vines with untouched full canopy. The accuracy achieved in grape detection opens the door to yield prediction in red grape vineyards. This would allow the creation of yield estimation maps that will ease the implementation of precision viticulture practices. To the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time that UAV photogrammetric point clouds have been used for grape clusters detection.

Anthocyanin content and composition and CIE 1976 (L*, a*, b*) color space (CIELAB) color coordinates were examined for the skin of 22 muscadine grape (Vitis rotundifolia Michx.) cultivars and Muscadinia Planch germplasm. Analysis of berry skin extracts by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) determined that anthocyanin content varied from less than 100 μg·g−1 in bronze and pink berries to over 5500 μg·g−1 in highly pigmented black berries. The anthocyanins delphinidin, cyanidin, petunidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, and malvidin were detected in their 3,5-diglucosidic forms. Analysis of berry color with a colorimeter revealed chroma (C*) ranged from 2.4 to 22.8 with the highest values occurring in bronze- and red-colored berries. As anthocyanin concentration increased, lightness (L*) decreased to a low of 20 to 23 in black-colored berries. Pink and red skin colors were primarily a result of lower levels of total anthocyanins, although there was also a shift away from delphinidin and petunidin production toward more cyanidin and peonidin. Malvidin, the most important anthocyanin for muscadine wine and juice color stability, was only abundant in a few clones, all of which had V. munsoniana (Simpson ex Munson) Small or V. popenoei (Fennell) Small in their pedigree. The interspecific hybrid ‘Fennell’s 3-way Hybrid’ had the largest proportion of malvidin, contributing ≈58% of the total anthocyanin content. This clone also had low levels of delphinidin and high total levels of anthocyanin, making it a promising source for the improvement of muscadine grape pigment profiles.

Одной из основных функций ампелографической коллекции является интродукция. Цель исследований - выделить среди изучаемых на коллекции интродуцированных сортов, наиболее перспективные для качественного виноделия в условиях Нижнего Придонья. Исследования проводились по общепринятым в виноградарстве методикам. Изучение сортов проводили в 2014-2018 гг. на Донской ампелографической коллекции имени Я.И. Потапенко (г. Новочеркасск, Россия). Сорта изучались в укрывной привитой культуре. В статье приводятся следующие показатели по каждому изучаемому сорту - срок созревания, процент плодоносных побегов, средняя масса грозди, урожайность, данные механического анализа (выход сока, процент гребней, кожицы и плотных частей мякоти, семян), масса 100 ягод, кондиции урожая (сахаристость и титруемая кислотность), органолептическая характеристика вина и его дегустационная оценка. По результатам проведенных 5-летних исследований выделены как перспективные 7 белоягодных сортов винограда для качественного виноделия в условиях Нижнего Придонья - Гок изюм, Горули мцване, Грубела, Норок, Рислинг мускатный, Ркацители розовый, Хоца цибил. Эти сорта рекомендуется использовать также для селекции, с целью выведения новых сортов с высокими технологическими свойствами для качественного виноделия. Introduction is one of the main functions of ampelographic collection. The purpose of the research is to identify in the collection the most promising introduced varieties for high-quality winemaking in the conditions of Lower Don Valley region. The research was conducted using methods generally accepted in viticulture. Grapevine cultivars were studied during 2014-2018 at Ya.I.Potapenko Don ampelographic collection (Novocherkassk, Russia). Varieties were observed in a covered grafted culture. The article provides the following parameters for every variety under study: ripening period, percentage of fruit-bearing shoots, average bunch weight, yield capacity, mechanical analysis data (juice output, percentage of stems, skin and dense parts of pulp, seeds), weight of 100 berries, crop conditions (sugar content and titratable acidity), organoleptic characteristics of wine and its tasting evaluation. As a result of 5-year research, 7 white grapevine varieties were identified as promising for high-quality winemaking in the conditions of Lower Don Valley region - ‘Gok Isum’, 'Gorouli Mtzvanet', 'Groubela', ‘Norok’, ‘Riesling Muscat’, ‘Rkatsiteli Rose’, 'Khotza Tzibil'. These varieties are also recommended for selection in order to breed new varieties with strong technological properties for high-quality winemaking.

The article describes the main indicators of a grapes crop quality - a sugar content in the juice of grapes and a titratable acidity, which give a special taste to the main production of technical kinds of grapes - dry wines. The methods and tools of the laboratory analysis of these indicators, as well as the methodology of a field experience are described . The results of laboratory and field experiments, conducted in 2015 in the areas of an ampelography and clonal selection department of NSC of "Institute for Winegrowing and Winemaking named after V. E. Tairov" are represented. The quality of grapes crop was determined for three grades - Odessa Muscat, Sukholimansky white and Odessa black (respectively medium, later than average and late ripening). Analysis of grape quality indicators was carried out in the dynamics during ripening (from the beginning of ripening to a technical maturity) in four replications for 40 plants on three tiers of the bush - the upper, middle and lower. It was executed the calculations of glucoacidimetric indicator (GAP) value for grades Odessa Muscat, Sukholimansky white and Odessa black. The following conclusions were obtained. The greatest rate of change of grapes quality indicators of different ripening technical kinds is observed for the grape with the lowest grade ripening period – Odessa Muscat. The resulting calculations indicate sufficient indicators value to obtain good quality wine materials for making high quality wines.

In viticulture, information about vine vigour is a key input for decision-making in connection with production targets. Pruning weight (PW), a quantitative variable used as indicator of vegetative vigour, is associated with the quantity and quality of the grapes. Interest has been growing in recent years around the use of unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) or drones fitted with remote sensing facilities for more efficient crop management and the production of higher quality wine. Current research has shown that grape production, leaf area index, biomass, and other viticulture variables can be estimated by UAV imagery analysis. Although SfM lowers costs, saves time, and reduces the amount and type of resources needed, a review of the literature revealed no studies on its use to determine vineyard pruning weight. The main objective of this study was to predict PW in vineyards from a 3D point cloud generated with RGB images captured by a standard drone and processed by SfM. In this work, vertical and oblique aerial images were taken in two vineyards of Godello and Mencía varieties during the 2019 and 2020 seasons using a conventional Phantom 4 Pro drone. Pruning weight was measured on sampling grids comprising 28 calibration cells for Godello and 59 total cells for Mencía (39 calibration cells and 20 independent validation). The volume of vegetation (V) was estimated from the generated 3D point cloud and PW was estimated by linear regression analysis taking V as predictor variable. When the results were leave-one-out cross-validated (LOOCV), the R2 was found to be 0.71 and the RMSE 224.5 (g) for the PW estimate in Mencía 2020, calculated for the 39 calibration cells on the grounds of oblique images. The regression analysis results for the 20 validation samples taken independently of the rest (R2 = 0.62; RMSE = 249.3 g) confirmed the viability of using the SfM as a fast, non-destructive, low-cost procedure for estimating pruning weight.

The world experience of viticulture development and winemaking is analyzed in this article. It is established that the experience of Italy is the most acceptable example for Ukrainian winegrowers. The analysis of wine industry development in Ukraine and Odessa region is carried out general. The dynamics of grape production and the processing of wine materials in different areas as well as the inside and outside factors making impact on development of wineries are also analyzed

ABSTRACT Thioredoxins are small proteins that regulate the cellular redox state, prevent oxidative damage, and play an active role in cell repair. Oxidative stress has proven to be of much relevance in biotechnological processes when the metabolism of Saccharomyces cerevisiae is mainly respiratory. During wine yeast starter production, active dry yeast cytosolic thioredoxin Trx2p is a key player in protecting metabolic enzymes from being oxidized by carbonylation. Less is known about the role of redox control during grape juice fermentation. A mutant strain that lacked both cytosolic thioredoxins, Trx1p and Trx2p, was tested for grape juice fermentation. Its growth and sugar consumption were greatly impaired, which indicates the system’s relevance under fermentative conditions. A proteomic analysis indicated that deletion of the genes TRX1 and TRX2 caused a reduction in the ribosomal proteins and factors involved in translation elongation in addition to enzymes for glycolysis and amino acid biosynthesis. A metabolomic analysis of the trx1Δ trx2Δ mutant showed an increase in most proteogenic amino acids, phospholipids, and sphingolipids and higher fatty acid desaturase Ole1p content. Low glycolytic activity was behind the reduced growth and fermentative capacity of the thioredoxin deletion strain. All three hexokinases were downregulated in the mutant strain, but total hexokinase activity remained, probably due to posttranslational regulation. Pyruvate kinase Cdc19p presented an early level of aggregation in the trx1Δ trx2Δ mutant, which may contribute to a diminished hexose metabolism and trigger regulatory mechanisms that could influence the level of glycolytic enzymes. IMPORTANCE Oxidative stress is a common hazardous condition that cells have to face in their lifetime. Oxidative damage may diminish cell vitality and viability by reducing metabolism and eventually leading to aging and ultimate death. Wine yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae also faces oxidative attack during its biotechnological uses. One of the main yeast antioxidant systems involves two small proteins called thioredoxins. When these two proteins are removed, wine yeast shows diminished growth, protein synthesis, and sugar metabolism under wine-making conditions, and amino acid and lipid metabolism are also affected. Altogether, our results indicate that proper redox regulation is a key factor for metabolic adaptations during grape juice fermentation.

Introduction In November 2020, upon learning that the company’s Covid-19 vaccine trial had been successful, the head of Pfizer’s Vaccine Research and Development, Kathrin Jansen, celebrated with champagne – “some really good stuff” (Cohen). Bubbles seem to go naturally with celebration, and champagne is fundamentally associated with bubbles. Yet, until the late-seventeenth century, champagne was a still wine, and it only reached the familiar levels of bubbliness in the late-nineteenth century (Harding). During this period and on into the early twentieth century, “champagne” was in many ways created, defined, and defended. A “champagne bubble” was created, within which the “nature” of champagne was contested and constructed. Champagne today is the result of hundreds of years of labour by many sorts of bubble-makers: those who make the bubbly drink, and those who construct, maintain, and defend the champagne bubble. In this article, I explore some elements of the champagne bubble, in order to understand both its fragility and rigidity over the years and today. Creating the Champagne Bubble – the Labour of Centuries It is difficult to separate the physical from the mythical as regards champagne. Therefore the categorisations below are always overlapping, and embedded in legal, political, economic, and socio-cultural factors. Just as assemblage – the mixing of wine from different grapes – is an essential element of champagne wine, the champagne bubble may be called heterogeneous assemblage. Indeed, the champagne bubble, as we will see below, is a myriad of different sorts of bubbles, such as terroir, appellation, myth and brand. And just as any assemblage, its heterogeneous elements exist and operate in relation to each other. Therefore the “champagne bubble” discussed here is both one and many, all of its elements fundamentally interconnected, constituting that “one” known as “champagne”. It is not my intention to be comprehensive of all the elements, historical and contemporary. Indeed, that would not be possible within such a short article. Instead, I seek to demonstrate some of the complexity of the champagne bubble, noting the elaborate labour that has gone into its creation. The Physical Champagne and Champagne – from Soil to Bubbles Champagne means both a legally protected geographical area (Champagne), and the wine (here: champagne) produced in this area from grapes defined as acceptable: most importantly pinot noir, pinot meunier (“black” grapes), and chardonnay (“white” grape). The method of production, too, is regulated and legally protected: méthode champenoise. Although the same method is used in numerous locations, these must be called something different: metodo classico (Italy), método tradicional (Spain), Methode Cap Classique (South Africa). The geographical area of Champagne was first legally defined in 1908, when it only included the areas of Marne and Aisne, leaving out, most importantly, the area of Aube. This decision led to severe unrest and riots, as the Aube vignerons revolted in 1911, forcing the inclusion of “zone 2”: Aube, Haute-Marne, and Seine-et-Marne (Guy). Behind these regulations was a surge in fraudulent production in the early twentieth century, as well as falling wine prices resulting from increasing supply of cheap wines (Colman 18). These first appellations d’origine had many consequences – they proved financially beneficial for the “zone 1”, but less so for the “zone 2”. When both these areas were brought under the same appellation in 1927, the financial benefits were more limited – but this may have been due to the Great Depression triggered in 1929 (Haeck et al.). It is a long-standing belief that the soil and climate of Champagne are key contributors to the quality of champagne wines, said to be due to “conditions … most suitable for making this type of wine” (Simon 11). Already in the end of the nineteenth century, the editor of Vigneron champenois attributed champagne’s quality to “a fortunate combination of … chalky soil … [and] unrivalled exposure [to the sun]” (Guy 119) among other things. Factors such as soil and climate, commonly included in and expressed through the idea of terroir, undoubtedly influence grapes and wines made thereof, but the extent remains unproven. Indeed, terroir itself is a very contested concept (Teil; Inglis and Almila). It is also the case that climate change has had, and will continue to have, devastating effects on wine production in many areas, while benefiting others. The highly successful English sparkling wine production, drawing upon know-how from the Champagne area, has been enabled by the warming climate (Inglis), while Champagne itself is at risk of becoming too hot (Robinson). Champagne is made through a process more complicated than most wines. I present here the bare bones of it, to illustrate the many challenges that had to be overcome to enable its production in the scale we see today. Freshly picked grapes are first pressed and the juice is fermented. Grape juice contains natural yeasts and therefore will ferment spontaneously, but fermentation can also be started with artificial yeasts. In fermentation, alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2) are formed, but the latter usually escapes the liquid. The secret of champagne is its second fermentation, which happens in bottles, after wines from different grapes and/or vineyards have been blended for desired characteristics (assemblage). For the second fermentation, yeast and sugar are added. As the fermentation happens inside a bottle, the CO2 that is created does not escape, but dissolves into the wine. The average pressure inside a champagne bottle in serving temperature is around 5 bar – 5 times the pressure outside the bottle (Liger-Belair et al.). The obvious challenge this method poses has to do with managing the pressure. Exploding bottles used to be a common problem, and the manner of sealing bottles was not very developed, either. Seventeenth-century developments in bottle-making, and using corks to seal bottles, enabled sparkling wines to be produced in the first place (Leszczyńska; Phillips 137). Still today, champagne comes in heavy-bottomed bottles, sealed with characteristically shaped cork, which is secured with a wire cage known as muselet. Scientific innovations, such as calculating the ideal amount of sugar for the second fermentation in 1836, also helped to control the amount of gas formed during the second fermentation, thus making the behaviour of the wine more predictable (Leszczyńska 265). Champagne is characteristically a “manufactured” wine, as it involves several steps of interference, from assemblage to dosage – sugar added for flavour to most champagnes after the second fermentation (although there are also zero dosage champagnes). This lends champagne particularly suitable for branding, as it is possible to make the wine taste the same year after year, harvest after harvest, and thus create a distinctive and recognisable house style. It is also possible to make champagnes for different tastes. During the nineteenth century, champagnes of different dosage were made for different markets – the driest for the British, the sweetest for the Russians (Harding). Bubbles are probably the most striking characteristic of champagne, and they are enabled by the complicated factors described above. But they are also formed when the champagne is poured in a glass. Natural impurities on the surface of the glass provide channels through which the gas pockets trapped in the wine can release themselves, forming strains of rising bubbles (Liger-Belair et al.). Champagne glasses have for centuries differed from other wine glasses, often for aesthetic reasons (Harding). The bubbles seem to do more than give people aesthetic pleasure and sensory experiences. It is often claimed that champagne makes you drunk faster than other drinks would, and there is, indeed, some (limited) research showing that this may well be the case (Roberts and Robinson; Ridout et al.). The Mythical Champagne – from Dom Pérignon to Modern Wonders Just as the bubbles in a champagne glass are influenced by numerous forces, so the metaphorical champagne bubble is subject to complex influences. Myth-creation is one of the most significant of these. The origin of champagne as sparkling wine is embedded in the myth of Dom Pérignon of Hautvillers monastery (1638–1715), who according to the legend would have accidentally developed the bubbles, and then enthusiastically exclaimed “I am drinking the stars!” (Phillips 138). In reality, bubbles are a natural phenomenon provoked by winter temperatures deactivating the fermenting yeasts, and spring again reactivating them. The myth of Dom Pérignon was first established in the nineteenth century and quickly embraced by the champagne industry. In 1937, Moët et Chandon launched a premium champagne called Dom Pérignon, which enjoys high reputation until this day (Phillips). The champagne industry has been active in managing associations connected with champagne since the nineteenth century. Sparkling champagnes had already enjoyed fashionability in the later seventeenth and early eighteenth century, both in the French Court, and amongst the British higher classes. In the second half of the nineteenth century, champagne found ever increasing markets abroad, and the clientele was not aristocratic anymore. Before the 1860s, champagne’s association was with high status celebration, as well as sexual activity and seduction (Harding; Rokka). As the century went on, and champagne sales radically increased, associations with “modernity” were added: “hot-air balloons, towering steamships, transcontinental trains, cars, sports, and other ‘modern’ wonders were often featured in quickly proliferating champagne advertising” (Rokka 280). During this time, champagne grew both drier and more sparkling, following consumer tastes (Harding). Champagne’s most important markets in later nineteenth century included the UK, where the growing middle classes consumed champagne for both celebration and hospitality (Harding), the US, where (upper) middle-class women were served champagne in new kinds of consumer environments (Smith; Remus), and Russia, where the upper classes enjoyed sweeter champagne – until the Revolution (Phillips 296). The champagne industry quickly embraced the new middle classes in possession of increasing wealth, as well as new methods of advertising and marketing. What is remarkable is that they managed to integrate enormously varied cultural thematics and still retain associations with aristocracy and luxury, while producing and selling wine in industrial scale (Harding; Rokka). This is still true today: champagne retains a reputation of prestige, despite large-scale branding, production, and marketing. Maintaining and Defending the Bubble: Formulas, Rappers, and the Absolutely Fabulous Tipplers The falling wine prices and increasing counterfeit wines coincided with Europe’s phylloxera crisis – the pest accidentally brought over from North America that almost wiped out all Europe’s vineyards. The pest moved through Champagne in the 1890s, killing vines and devastating vignerons (Campbell). The Syndicat du Commerce des vins de Champagne had already been formed in 1882 (Rokka 280). Now unions were formed to fight phylloxera, such as the Association Viticole Champenoise in 1898. The 1904 Fédération Syndicale des Vignerons was formed to lobby the government to protect the name of Champagne (Leszczyńska 266) – successfully, as we have seen above. The financial benefits from appellations were certainly welcome, but short-lived. World War I treated Champagne harshly, with battle lines stuck through the area for years (Guy 187). The battle went on also in the lobbying front. In 1935, a new appellation regime was brought into law, which came to be the basis for all European systems, and the Comité National des appellations d'origine (CNAO) was founded (Colman 1922). Champagne’s protection became increasingly international, and continues to be so today under EU law and trade deals (European Commission). The post-war recovery of champagne relied on strategies used already in the “golden years” – marketing and lobbying. Advertising continued to embrace “luxury, celebration, transport (extending from air travel to the increasingly popular automobile), modernity, sports” (Guy 188). Such advertisement must have responded accurately to the mood of post-war, pre-depression Europe. Even in the prohibition US it was known that the “frivolous” French women might go as far as bathe in champagne, like the popular actress Mistinguett (Young 63). Curiously, in the 1930s Soviet Russia, “champagne” (not produced in Champagne) was declared a sign of good living, symbolising the standard of living that any Soviet worker had access to (at least in theory) (Gronow). Today, the reputation of champagne is fiercely defended in legal terms. This is not only in terms of protection against other sparkling wine making areas, but also in terms of exploitation of champagne’s reputation by actors in other commercial fields, and even against mass market products containing genuine champagne (Mahy and d’Ath; Schneider and Nam). At the same time, champagne has been widely “democratised” by mass production, enabled partly by increasing mechanisation and scientification of champagne production from the 1950s onwards (Leszczyńska 266). Yet champagne retains its association with prestige, luxury, and even royalty. This has required some serious adaptation and flexibility. In what follows, I look into three cultural phenomena that illuminate processes of such adaptation: Formula One (F1) champagne spraying, the 1990s sitcom Absolutely Fabulous, and the Cristal racism scandal in 2006. The first champagne bottle is said to have been presented to F1 grand prix winner in Champagne in 1950 (Wheels24). Such a gesture would have been fully in line with champagne’s association with cars, sport, and modernity. But what about the spraying? Surely that is not in line with the prestige of the wine? The first spraying is attributed to Jo Siffert in 1966 and Dan Gurney in 1967, the former described as accidental, the latter as a spontaneous gesture of celebration (Wheels24; Dobie). Moët had become the official supplier of F1 champagnes in 1966, and there are no signs that the new custom would have been problematic for them, as their sponsorship continued until 1999, after which Mumm sponsored the sport for 15 years. Today, the champagne to be popped and sprayed is Chanson, in special bottles “coated in the same carbon fibre that F1 cars are made of” (Wheels24). Such an iconic status has the spraying gained that it features in practically all TV broadcasts concerning F1, although non-alcoholic substitute is used in countries where sale of alcohol is banned (Barker et al., “Quantifying”; Barker et al., “Alcohol”). As disturbing as the champagne spraying might look for a wine snob, it is perfectly in line with champagne’s marketing history and entrepreneurial spirit shown since the nineteenth century. Nor is it unheard of to let champagne spray. The “art” of sabrage, opening champagne bottle with a sable, associated with glamour, spectacle, and myth – its origin is attributed to Napoleon and his officers – is perfectly acceptable even for the snob. Sparkling champagne was always bound up with joy and celebration, not a solemn drink, and the champagne bubble was able to accommodate middle classes as well as aristocrats. This brings us to our second example, the British sitcom Absolutely Fabulous. The show, first released in 1992, featured two women, “Eddy” (Jennifer Saunders) and “Patsy” (Joanna Lumley), who spent their time happily smoking, taking drugs, and drinking large quantities of “Bolly” (among other things). Bollinger champagne may have initially experienced “a bit of a shock” for being thus addressed, but soon came to see the benefits of fame (French). In 2005, they hired PR support to make better use of the brand’s “Ab Fab” recognisability, and to improve its prestige reputation in order to justify their higher price range (Cann). Saunders and Lumley were warmly welcomed by the Bollinger house when filming for their champagne tour Absolutely Champers (2017). It is befitting indeed that such controversial fame came from the UK, the first country to discover sparkling champagne outside France (Simon 48), and where the aspirational middle classes were keen to consume it already in the nineteenth century (Harding). More controversial still is the case of Cristal (made by Louis Roederer) and the US rap world. Enthusiastically embraced by the “bling-bling” world of (black) rappers, champagne seems to fit their ethos well. Cristal was long favoured as both a drink and a word in rap lyrics. But in 2006, the newly appointed managing director at the family owned Roederer, Frédéric Rouzaud, made comments considered racist by many (Woodland). Rouzard told in an interview with The Economist that the house observed the Cristal-rap association “with curiosity and serenity”. He reportedly continued: “but what can we do? We can’t forbid people from buying it. I’m sure Dom Pérignon or Krug would be delighted to have their business”. It was indeed those two brands that the rapper Jay-Z replaced Cristal with, when calling for a boycott on Cristal. It would be easy to dismiss Rouzard’s comments as snobbery, or indeed as racism, but they merit some more reflection. Cristal is the premium wine of a house that otherwise does not enjoy high recognisability. While champagne’s history involves embracing new sorts of clientele, and marketing flexibly to as many consumer groups as possible (Rokka), this was the first spectacular crossing of racial boundaries. It was always the case that different houses and their different champagnes were targeted at different clienteles, and it is apparent that Cristal was not targeted at black rap artists. Whereas Bollinger was able to turn into a victory the questionable fame brought by the white middle-class association of Absolutely Fabulous, the more prestigious Cristal considered the attention of the black rapper world more threatening and acted accordingly. They sought to defend their own brand bubble, not the larger champagne bubble. Cristal’s reputation seems to have suffered little – its 2008 vintage, launched in 2018, was the most traded wine of that year (Schultz). Jay-Z’s purchase of his own champagne brand (Armand de Brignac, nicknamed Ace of Spades) has been less successful reputation-wise (Greenburg). It is difficult to break the champagne bubble, and it may be equally difficult to break into it. Conclusion In this article, I have looked into the various dilemmas the “bubble-makers” of Champagne encountered when fabricating what is today known as “champagne”. There have been moments of threat to the bubble they formed, such as in the turn of nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and eras of incomparable success, such as from the 1860s to 1880s. The discussion has demonstrated the remarkable flexibility with which the makers and defenders of champagne have responded to challenges, and dealt with material, socio-cultural, economic, and other problems. It feels appropriate to end with a note on the current challenge the champagne industry faces: Covid-19. The pandemic hit champagne sales exceptionally hard, leaving around 100 million bottles unsold (Micallef). This was not very surprising, given the closure of champagne-selling venues, banning of public and private celebrations, and a general mood not particularly prone to (or even likely to frown upon) such light-hearted matters as glamour and champagne. Champagne has survived many dramatic drops in sales during the twentieth century, such as the Great Depression of the 1930s, and the post-financial crisis collapse in 2009. Yet they seem to be able to make astonishing recoveries. 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