Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Dressmaking'

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Missouri-Columbia, 2005.
The entire dissertation/thesis text is included in the research.pdf file; the official abstract appears in the short.pdf file (which also appears in the research.pdf); a non-technical general description, or public abstract, appears in the public.pdf file. Title from title screen of research.pdf file viewed on (January 25, 2007) Vita. Includes bibliographical references.

Discourses on ethical fashion are usually geared toward finding solutions—or right outcomes—to ethical problems, based on a teleological model of design and a positioning of the designer as an autonomous and isolated design authority. This practice-led project argues, however, that considerations of design ethics must take into account not only the outcome of a design, but also the ongoing, lived experience of designing as a making located in pre-existing social, historical and cultural conditions. Through an exploration of my own dressmaking practice and a reading of ethos as location, I argue for two things: one, for the designer as a located entity rather than an autonomous "author", and, two, against design-asplan and the original design object, and for the circular and conditioned character of design. Through a connection to ethos, understandings of design ethics shift from an end object focus to something situated, and invested in, everyday lived experience—and always in the making.

Exegesis (MA--Art and Design) -- AUT University, 2008.
Includes bibliographical references. Also held in print (111 leaves : col. ill. ; 22 x 30 cm.) in the Archive at the City Campus (T 746.92 WAL)

Thesis (BTech (Fashion Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010
Petite women face many difficulties when purchasing clothing (Kam, 2006). This has been the common reaction expressed by a number of petite women all over the globe (Kam, 2006). Although there have been efforts made to accommodate petite women in South Africa( National Textiles Research brief, 2007) regarding clothing such as Edgars in particular there is still a large amount of petite women who feel dissatisfied. To test whether poorly fitted clothing does have a psychological effect on the petite women, interviews will be conducted with students attending CPUT and UCT. Research on theories revolving around the human mind and how the perception of other people influence our own perceptions of our self image were covered and the product of this research will be a new sizing system for petite women and a range of smart wear which allows women to express themselves age appropriately. The apparel industry has been growing and has worked side by side with technology to address many problems concerning fit and have succeeded in many departments. The fashion industry has in fact paid little attention to petite individuals not recognizing the psychological effect it has on the consumer and could largely benefit if the industry concentrates more on fit, aesthetic and design problems.

British fashion is poised amidst a clutch of conflicting narratives, representations and ideologies. Through an examination of these rival encounters and the events that have gone to generate them, this thesis gives an insight into the culture of contemporary fashion, its dilemmas and the industry it supports. In particular, my discussion looks at the relationship between fashion and national identity. It posits fashion as a site central both to the re-branding of Britain and also to contestations over British identity itself, including the gendering of Britishness and its class relations. Using the cases of two iconic British fashion companies, Paul Smith Ltd and Mulberry Plc, I explore how the apparently straightforward and economically driven process of the globalisation of British fashion is, in fact, a far more culturally nuanced and locally embedded encounter than has previously been suggested. I unpack the different ways in which Paul Smith and Mulberry go about negotiating and sometimes even shaping and mobilising a sense of nationness in what is a rapidly globalising commercial marketplace. For in spite of their shared iconic national status both companies go about generating and deploying their self-confessed British character in exceedingly different ways. It is through an exploration of Paul Smith and Mulberry's contrasting corporate strategies, symbolic production techniques and product profiles that I investigate the different meanings afforded by the term Britishness. Indeed the thesis contends that, in the arena of fashion, Britishness is characterised less through some distinct essence or by a particular 'look' and more through its 'narratives of ambiguity'. In turn, it suggests that an understanding of these narratives goes some way in problematising and disrupting commonly imagined notions of Britishness borne out of Anglo-centric, androcentric and bourgeois tradition and, still further, it looks at how such notions might be re-worked in more multiple and complex ways.

Fundação Araucária
O objetivo deste estudo foi analisar as relações existentes entre os domínios da QV e a QVT geral e entre os critérios da QVT e a QV geral, através de um modelo de regressão logística, em funcionários do APL de vestuário de Maringá/Cianorte – PR. No referencial teórico foram abordados conceitos relacionados aos seguintes temas: qualidade de vida, qualidade de vida no trabalho, APL (Arranjo Produtivo Local) e fundamentação estatística. O método utilizado na pesquisa foi o indutivo, sendo a abordagem metodológica aplicada, quantitativa, exploratória descritiva e de levantamento. Para a coleta de dados foram utilizados dois questionários, sendo o primeiro o WHOQOL-bref para avaliação da QV e o segundo uma adaptação do modelo proposto por Walton para avaliação da QVT, os questionários foram aplicados em 15 empresas distribuídas da seguinte forma: quatro microempresas (n= 43), quatro pequenas empresas (n= 86), seis medias empresas (n=214) e uma grande empresa (n=126). Ao todo foram avaliados 469 funcionários entre homens e mulheres. Para a análise dos dados utilizou-se do cálculo da estimativa dos valores médios dos domínios de QV e dos critérios de QVT, identificação de outliers, teste de independência qui-quadrado e técnica de regressão logística. Para a validação do modelo estimado através da regressão logística foi utilizado o teste Hosmer-Lemeshow. Os resultados encontrados na regressão logística para as variáveis independentes (domínios de QV) em relação a variável dependente (QVT geral) mostraram que os domínios: físico (P=0,002), psicológico (P= 0,017) e meio ambiente (P= 0,000) possuem influência significativa em relação à QVT. Logo o domínio relações sociais (P=0,114) mostrou não possuir influência significativa em relação à QVT, pois apresentou valor acima do nível de significância adotado (P>0,05). Considerando somente as variáveis que apresentaram associação significativa foi estimado um modelo de regressão logística. Com isto constatou-se que um funcionário apresentando satisfação com os domínios de QV (físico, psicológico e meio-ambiente) terá uma probabilidade de 78,27% de desenvolver uma QVT satisfatória. Os resultados obtidos na regressão logística para as variáveis independentes (critérios de QVT) em relação a variável dependente (QV geral) mostrou para esta população pesquisada que não existe uma associação significativa entre os critérios de QVT e a QV geral, pois todos os critérios apresentaram valores acima do nível de significância adotado (P > 0,05). Conclui-se que as empresas podem desenvolver programas de QV para os funcionários desta população pesquisada, dando maior atenção aos domínios físico, psicológico e meio ambiente pelo fato destes domínios terem apresentado influências significativas na melhora da satisfação em relação à QVT.
The objective of this study was to analyze the relationships between the domains of the QV and general QVT and between the criteria of QWL and overall QOL, using a logistic regression model with employees of APL clothing in Maringá/Cianorte - PR. On the theoretical referential discussed were related to the following themes: quality of life, quality of work life, APL (Local Productive Arrangement) and statistical reasoning. The method used in the research was the inductive one, and the methodological approach applied, quantitative, descriptive exploratory and collecting data. For the data collection two questionnaires had been used, the first one was WHOQOL-bref for evaluation of the QV and the second one was an adaptation of the model proposed by Walton for evaluation of the QVT, the questionnaires had been applied in 15 distributed companies as follows: four microcompanies (n= 43), four small companies (n= 86), six medium-sized companies (n=214) and a large company (n=126). The whole evaluated were 469 employees between men and women. For the analysis of data was used to calculate the estimate of the average values of QOL domains and criteria of QWL, identification of outliers, test of independence qui-square and technique of logistic regression. For the validation of the model estimated by logistic regression was used Hosmer-Lemeshow test. The results in the logistic regression for independent variables (QV domains) in relation the dependent variable (overall QWL) showed that the domains: physicist (P=0,002), psychological (P=0,017) and environment (P=0,000) have significant influence in relation to QVT. So social relationships (P=0,114) showed no significant influence has in relation to the QVT, because it presented value over the level of significance (P> 0.05). Considering only the variables that showed significant association was estimated a logistic regression model. With this was noted an employee presenting satisfaction with the QOL domains (physicist, psychological and environment) will have a probability of 78,27% to develop a QWL satisfactory. The results obtained in the logistic regression for independent variables (QWL criteria) in relation to the dependent variable (overall QOL) showed for this population researched that there is not a significant association between the criteria of QLW and overall QOL, , because all the criteria presented values above the level of significance (P> 0.05). It is concluded that the companies can develop programs of QV for the employees of this researched population, giving more attention to the physical, psychological and environment because these areas have presented significant influences in improving satisfaction in relation to the QWL.

Capes
O objetivo deste estudo foi encontrar correlação entre as posturas adotadas e os respectivos riscos posturais, a dor e/ou sintomas musculoesqueléticos e a capacidade de carga em costureiras de indústrias de confecção de vestuário da cidade de Ponta Grossa, Paraná. A amostra foi composta por costureiras do gênero feminino. O problema que se avista para a presente pesquisa centra-se: De que maneira, as posturas e a força de preensão manual aplicadas e utilizadas no trabalho, afetam a sintomatologia da dor e os sintomas musculoesqueléticos, em trabalhadoras de indústrias de confecção? O referencial teórico pautou-se em: indústria têxtil, características da indústria de confecção de vestuário, ergonomia, postura, efeitos causados ao trabalhador na postura sentada, coluna vertebral e a postura sentada, avaliação ergonômica, métodos de avaliação de análise postural, avaliação dos sintomas musculoesqueléticos e sua localização e avaliação da capacidade de carga. Quanto à abordagem metodológica, a pesquisa classifica-se como quali-quantitativa, descritiva e de levantamento. A pesquisa foi desenvolvida em cinco empresas do ramo de confecção do vestuário, totalizando 57 costureiras. Os instrumentos utilizados para a coleta de dados foram questionários, entrevistas, o método REBA (Rapid Entire Body Assessment) para avaliação das posturas, o Diagrama de Corlett e Manenica para a localização da dor nos segmentos corporais e intensidade e dinamômetro para medir a força de preensão manual. A pontuação média no método REBA da amostra foi de 4,75 (± 0,46). A maioria das costureiras (80,70%) respondeu que possui dor em algum segmento corporal, ou em membros superiores ou inferiores, e apenas 19,30% da amostra disse não sentir desconforto. Os segmentos corporais que as costureiras da amostra não apresentaram dor foram: a bacia, o braço esquerdo, o antebraço direito e o punho direito. Com relação aos membros superiores, o que apresentou maior relato de dor foi a região lombar, com 40,35%. A segunda região de maior dor é a cervical, com 36,84%, seguido da região da costa média com 24,56%. A quarta região foi o pescoço, com 22,80% e a quinta foi a costa superior, com 17,54%. Com relação aos membros inferiores, a maior queixa de dores foi nas pernas, com 56,14%, contra apenas 5,26% nas coxas. A média da capacidade de carga das costureiras, medida através da força de preensão manual foi de 24,7 quilos (± 5,81). Os resultados das correlações entre as três variáveis: postura, dor e capacidade de carga apresentaram correlação fraca ou ausente, pois a correlação entre postura e dor foi ausente, e as correlações entre postura e dor e entre dor e capacidade de carga foram de r: 0.017. Acompanhando o trabalho das costureiras, foi possível identificar que as principais posturas adotadas ao longo da jornada laboral podem contribuir para o desenvolvimento de lesões musculoesqueléticas.
The aim of this study was to find correlation between the positions taken and their risk posture, pain and / or musculoskeletal symptoms and the load capacity of seamstresses on the industry of clothing in the city of Ponta Grossa, Paraná. The sample consisted of seamstresses female. The problem that can be seen to this research focuses: How postures and grip strength applied and used at work, affect the symptoms of pain and musculoskeletal symptoms in workers in clothing industries? The theoretical framework was based on: textile industry, the clothing industry characteristics, ergonomics, posture, the effects caused in seated posture, spine and sitting posture, ergonomic evaluation, postural analysis of assessment methods, evaluation of musculoskeletal symptoms and assessing their location and load capacity. Regarding the methodological approach, the research is classified as qualitative and quantitative, descriptive and lifting. The research was conducted in five companies in the garment manufacturing industry, totaling 57 seamstresses. The instruments used for data collection were questionnaires, interviews, the REBA (Rapid Entire Body Assessment) method for assessment of attitudes, the Diagram Corlett and Manenica to the location of pain in the body segments and intensity and dynamometer to measure the force handgrip. The average score in REBA sample method was 4.75 (0.46). Most seamstresses (80.70%) replied that he has pain in a body part, or upper limbs or lower, and only 19.30% of the sample said no discomfort. The body segments that seamstresses sample did not experience pain were: the basin, the left arm, right forearm and right wrist. Regarding the upper limbs, which showed greater account of pain was a lumbar region, with 40.35%. The second area of greatest pain is the cervical, with 36.84%, followed by the middle coast region with 24.56%. The fourth area was the neck, with 22,80% and the fifth was the upper coast, with 17.54%. Regarding the lower limbs, the biggest complaint was pain in the legs, with 56.14%, compared to 5.26% in the thighs. The average load capacity of seamstresses, measured by grip strength was 24.7 kilograms (5.81). The results of the correlations between the three variables: posture, pain and load capacity had weak or no correlation because the correlation between posture and pain was absent, and the correlations between posture and pain and between pain and cargo capacity were r: 0017. Following the work of seamstresses, it observed that the main stances adopted during the working day can contribute to the development of musculoskeletal injuries.

This thesis examines unsewn cloth pieces which once belonged to Victoria Wood and places them into their social and historical context. It uses the biography of Victoria Wood and her fabrics to argue for the importance of fabric collecting and dressmaking for New Zealand women from 1935 to 1955. It questions why ubiquitous fabrics bought for dress making are not represented in historical accounts of women, or in more general accounts of historical clothing and dress. Aspects of material culture theories are employed to analyse the material properties of the fabric pieces. These are situated within a wider domestic context to demonstrate that there were intrinsic qualities of fabric that influenced and were imagined by many women in this period. Oral histories and other documentary research add to the wider account and provide evidence of the way that dressmaking fabrics reflected the shifting notions of domesticity. The thesis suggests that fabrics bought for the creation of clothing can represent the past or a person. It also demonstrates how dressmaking fabrics simultaneously embody personal and social narratives which reflect the emotional and cultural values of a particular period. In this thesis I construct narratives which are based on the social and historical findings to highlight the importance of fabric collecting and dressmaking as an everyday domestic practice.

by Lun Ngai-mei, Amy.
Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1994.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves [1-10] (4th gp.)).
Acknowledgment --- p.i
Abstract --- p.ii -iii
Table of Content --- p.iv -viii
List of Tables --- p.vii-viii
List of Figures --- p.viii
Chapter Chapter 1 --- Introduction --- p.1-4
Chapter 1.1 --- Background of the Study --- p.4-6
Chapter 1.2 --- Purpose of the Study --- p.7-9
Chapter 1.3 --- Significance of the Study --- p.9-10
Chapter 1.4 --- Definition of Terminology --- p.10
Chapter 1.4.1 --- The Subject of 'Pattern Construction' --- p.11-13
Chapter 1.4.2 --- CAD systems in the Clothing Industry --- p.13-16
Chapter 1.4.3 --- The PAD System --- p.17-20
Chapter Chapter 2 --- Literature Review --- p.21
Chapter 2.1 --- Educational Innovation & Implementation Evaluation
Chapter 2.1.1 --- Educational Innovation --- p.21-22
Chapter 2.1.2 --- Implementation --- p.22-27
Chapter 2.1.3 --- Evaluation --- p.28
Chapter 2.1.4 --- Conducting Evaluation for an Educational Innovation --- p.29
Chapter 2.2 --- Evaluation of Instructional Materials --- p.30
Chapter 2.2.1 --- Conception & Methods in Evaluation of Instructional Systems --- p.30-31
Chapter 2.2.2 --- An Evaluation Model for Instructional System --- p.32-34
Chapter 2.3 --- A Model for Computer Software Evaluation --- p.34-36
Chapter 2.3.1 --- Description of the Model --- p.37-38
Chapter 2.3.2 --- Methodology used in the Software Evaluation Model --- p.38-39
Chapter 2.3.3 --- Discussions on the Reiser & Dick Evaluation Model --- p.39-40
Chapter 2.4 --- Conditions to Evaluating the Implementation of Educational Innovations --- p.41
Chapter 2.4.1 --- Initial Status of Learners --- p.41
Chapter 2.4.2 --- Learner Performance after a period of instruction --- p.42
Chapter 2.4.3 --- Execution of Treatment/Study of Program Implementation --- p.42-43
Chapter 2.4.4 --- Costs --- p.43
Chapter 2.4.5 --- Supplemental Information --- p.44
Chapter 2.5 --- The 'System Approach' to Instructional Design --- p.44-45
Chapter 2.5.1 --- Definition of Instructional System --- p.45
Chapter 2.5.2 --- The derivation of an instructional system --- p.46-49
Chapter 2.5.3 --- Selection of Delivery System --- p.50-52
Chapter 2.5.4 --- Individualized instruction as a delivery system --- p.53-55
Chapter 2.6 --- Applications of Computer Technology as Learning Media in a Curriculum
Chapter 2.6.1 --- Computer applications in the Curriculum --- p.55-57
Chapter 2.6.2 --- Integration of Computers into the Curriculum --- p.57-59
Chapter 2.6.3 --- Computer Software for Curriculum --- p.59-60
Chapter 2.6.4 --- Effectiveness of Computer-Based Instruction --- p.60-61
Chapter 2.7 --- The Four Modes of Experiential Learning --- p.62-63
Chapter 2.7.1 --- Individual Learning Styles --- p.63-64
Chapter 2.7.2 --- Relationship between Learning Styles & the Knowledge Structure of Academic Fields --- p.65-66
Chapter 2.8 --- Summary --- p.66-67
Chapter Chapter 3 --- Research Methodology --- p.68
Chapter 3.1 --- Research Design & Procedures --- p.68-73
Chapter 3.2 --- Research Hypotheses --- p.73
Chapter 3.2.1 --- Major Hypotheses --- p.73-74
Chapter 3.2.2 --- Other Hypotheses --- p.74
Chapter 3.3 --- Research Conditions & Sampling --- p.75
Chapter 3.3.1 --- Initial Status of Learners/Students --- p.75-76
Chapter 3.3.2 --- Learning Resources/Conditions --- p.76-77
Chapter 3.3.3 --- Computer Access Time --- p.77
Chapter 3.3.4 --- Technical Support --- p.77
Chapter 3.4 --- Research Variables --- p.78
Chapter 3.4.1 --- Independent Variables --- p.78-80
Chapter 3.4.2 --- Dependent Variables --- p.80
Chapter 3.5 --- Research Instruments --- p.80-82
Chapter 3.6 --- Statistical Analyses --- p.83-85
Chapter Chapter 4 --- Results & Discussion --- p.86
Chapter 4.1 --- Results --- p.86
Chapter 4.1.1 --- Reliabilities of Research Instruments --- p.86-88
Chapter 4.1.2 --- Factor Analyses of Pretest & Posttest Questionnaires --- p.88-89
Chapter 4.1.3 --- Pair t-tests of Achievement Scores before & after treatment --- p.90
Chapter 4.1.4 --- Analyses of Covariance/Variance on Achievement by Independent Variables --- p.91-94
Chapter 4.1.5 --- Analyses of Variance on Posttest score by Independent Variables --- p.94
Chapter 4.1.6 --- Interaction Effects --- p.95
Chapter 4.2 --- Discussion --- p.96
Chapter 4.2.1 --- Reliabilities of Research Instruments --- p.96-102
Chapter 4.2.2 --- The Major Hypotheses --- p.102-103
Chapter 4.2.3 --- Factors affecting Outcomes of Innovation --- p.104-108
Chapter 4.2.4 --- Follow-up on the Evaluation Study --- p.108
Chapter Chapter 5 --- "Conclusion, Limitations & Recommendations" --- p.109
Chapter 5.1 --- conclusion on the Evaluation Study --- p.110-117
Chapter 5.2 --- Limitations of the Study --- p.117-120
Chapter 5.3 --- Suggestions for Further Research --- p.120-123
Bibliography --- p.Bi-Bx
Appendices
App. I Statistical Results from the Pilot Study
App. II A List of CAD Suppliers
App. III Self-instructional Unit
App. IV Individualized Instructional Course - Blue-print
App. V Kolb's Learning Style Inventory
App. VI Pretest Questionnaire
App. VIIa Computer Interaction Observation Checklist - for individual student
App. VIIb Computer Interaction Observation Checklist - for small group
App. VIII Posttest Questionnaire
Tables
Table 2.1 Alternative perspectives on the Implementation Process --- p.26
Table 4.1 Reliability Table of Kolb's Learning Style Inventory --- p.86
Table 4.2 Reliability Table of Pretest Questionnaire --- p.87
Table 4.3 Reliability Table of Posttest Questionnaire --- p.88
Table 4.4 Pair t-test on Achievement Scores before & after treatment --- p.90
Table 4.5 Analysis of Covariance on Achievement after treatment among different groups of subjects categorized by their Demographic Data --- p.91
Table 4.6 Analysis of Covariance on Achievement after treatment among different groups of subjects categorized by their Entry Characteristics --- p.92
Table 4.7 Analysis of Variance on Achievement after treatmentamong different groups of subjects categorized by Learning Conditions --- p.93
Table 4.8 Analysis of Variance on Posttest scores among different groups of subjects categorized by Learners' Response after treatment --- p.94
Table 4.9 Interaction Effects between ability levels & modes of study --- p.95
Table 4.10 Distribution of Learners within the Four Dimensions of Kolb's Experiential Learning Figures --- p.99
Fig. 1.1 Pattern cutting examples of a men's jacket using a CAD system --- p.12
Fig. 1.2 Diagram showing graded patterns with grade points & sizes --- p.12
Fig. 1.3 A Production lay-plan shown on a computer screen --- p.13
Fig. 1.4 A sleeve pattern being digitized --- p.13
Fig. 1.5 A Designer's Perspective of Clothing/Textile computer programs --- p.16
Fig. 2.1 curriculum Dimensions & their Relationships in the Implementaion Process --- p.24
Fig. 2.2 An Evaluation Model for instructional design --- p.33
Fig. 2.3 An Evaluation Model for computer software --- p.36
Fig. 2.4 A Flowchart showing the stages of instructional design --- p.49
Fig. 2.5 A multi-dimensional map outlining the four dimensions of computer technologieis & their attributes --- p.56
Fig. 2.6 Modes of learning in the experiential learning cycle --- p.62
Fig. 2.7 Relationship between learning styles & modes of learning --- p.64
"Fig, 2.8 A typology of academic disciplines" --- p.66
Fig. 3.1 A modified Evaluation Model for evaluating Multi-media Approach of Instructional System & CAD software --- p.70
Fig. 4.1 Graph showing Interaction Effects between Ability Levels & Mode of Study --- p.95
Fig. 4.2 Similarities among Academic Specialities at the University of Illinois --- p.100