Academic literature on the topic 'Coastal Ocean Waves'
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Journal articles on the topic "Coastal Ocean Waves"
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Nakayama, Yoshihiro, Kay I. Ohshima, and Yasushi Fukamachi. "Enhancement of Sea Ice Drift due to the Dynamical Interaction between Sea Ice and a Coastal Ocean." Journal of Physical Oceanography 42, no. 1 (January 1, 2012): 179–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-11-018.1.
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Abstract Wind factor, the ratio of sea ice drift speed to surface wind speed, is a key factor for the dynamics of sea ice and is generally about 2%. In some coastal oceans, however, the wind factor tends to be larger near the coast. This study proposes the enhancement mechanism of the sea ice drift caused by the dynamical coupling between sea ice and a coastal ocean. In a coastal ocean covered with sea ice, wind-forced sea ice drift excites coastal trapped waves (shelf waves) and generates fluctuating ocean current. This ocean current can enhance sea ice drift when the current direction is the same as that of the wind-driven drift. The authors consider a simplified setting where spatially uniform oscillating wind drifts sea ice parallel to the coast. When a barotropic long shelf wave is assumed for the ocean response, sea ice drifts driven by wind and ocean are obtained analytically. The ratio of ocean-driven to wind-driven sea ice drifts is used for the evaluation of the oceanic contribution to the enhancement of sea ice drift. The enhancement is mostly determined by the characteristics of the shelf waves, and sea ice drift is significantly enhanced close to the coast with lower-frequency wind forcing. Comparison with the observation off the Sakhalin coast shows that the degree of enhancement of sea ice drift and its characteristic such that larger enhancement occurs near the coast are mostly consistent with our theoretical solution, suggesting that this mechanism is present in the real ocean.
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Viola, Cristina, Danielle Verdon-Kidd, and Hannah Power. "CHARACTERISING COASTAL SHELF WAVES ALONG THE NSW COAST." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 37. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.waves.37.
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New South Wales (NSW) often experiences periods of coastal inundation and estuarine flooding. One of the causal mechanisms of these episodes are coastal shelf waves (CSW), generated by synoptic disturbances (Church et al., 2006). CSWs in Australia often result from wind stress, mostly along mid-latitudes (e.g., the Great Australian Bight) and propagate anticlockwise (Woodham et al., 2013). However, there are no tools available for identifying and characterising CSWs and as such there is very little information on the magnitude, frequency, duration, and spatiotemporal variability. This paper aims to: (1) develop a method to identify and track CSWs using the existing ocean tide gauge network, (2) identify patterns in the frequency, duration, and magnitude of CSW, and (3) assess the factors that affect the frequency, duration, and magnitude of CSWs along the NSW coast.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/oigzYIKFBmA
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Akhmediev, Nail. "Waves that appear from nowhere." Proceedings of the Royal Society of Victoria 135, no. 2 (December 22, 2023): 64–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1071/rs23011.
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Oceanic rogue waves belong to a well-established class of phenomena but their study is hindered due to the great danger that they represent. They exist not only at the surface of the open ocean but they also hit coastal areas as well as appear internally in deeper layers of the ocean. The amplitude of the latter may exceed several times the amplitude of rogue waves at the surface. Surface rogue waves in the deep ocean represent threat even for large ocean liners while rogue waves in shallow waters are dangerous for coastal structures. On the other hand, internal rogue waves are hazardous for submarines. The experimental research of all three types of rogue waves is difficult. The theory provides certain degree of understanding of such waves. Some of the recent achievements in this area of research are reviewed in this article.
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Meucci, Alberto, Ian R. Young, Acacia Pepler, Irina Rudeva, and Agustinus Ribal. "MODELLED AND OBSERVED IMPACT OF THE APRIL 2021 SOUTHERN OCEAN STORM." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 37 (September 1, 2023): 2. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.waves.2.
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Wind-wave extreme events are a major driver of coastal erosion (Lowe et al., 2010). As such, accurate estimates of metocean extremes are crucial to implement efficient and resilient coastal defense strategies. Global wave reanalysis datasets are commonly used to estimate wind and wave statistical properties for coastal engineering purposes. However, despite the impressive accuracy of such datasets in representing average significant wave height conditions (global biases against observations of less than 5 cm), models usually underestimate metocean extremes (Cavaleri et al. 2009; Cavaleri et al., 2020). To obtain an understanding of model performance under extreme conditions, we focus on a single storm event generated in the Southern Ocean on April 7th, 2021.
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Voulgaris, George, Brian K. Haus, Paul Work, Lynn K. Shay, Harvey E. Seim, Robert H. Weisberg, and James R. Nelson. "Waves Initiative within SEACOOS." Marine Technology Society Journal 42, no. 3 (September 1, 2008): 68–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.4031/002533208786842507.
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Amongst other ocean state parameters, the development of a wave measurement program was supported as part of the Southeast U.S. Atlantic Coastal Ocean Observing System (SEACOOS). The program focused on supporting nearshore wave measurements using both cabled and autonomous systems but also examined the feasibility of using HF Radar systems for remote estimation of wave parameters. The nearshore stations have provided a significant database on directional wave climate for a number of nearshore locations in the region that provide valuable information to coastal engineers and managers for sustainable development along the coast of the southeastern United States. The ability of Wellen high-frequency radar (WERA HF) to provide wave information was evaluated through a field experiment in SE Florida. The results were encouraging and placed some initial bounds on the confidence to be associated with empirically derived wave height information. Coordination efforts for the development of a comprehensive waves program for the Southeast U.S. were initiated and contributed to the development of the National Wave Observations plan. They also led to the development of a new Regional Coastal Ocean Observing System (RCOOS) that includes developing systems in support of local weather forecast offices in their surfzone and rip-current forecasts.
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Barnez Gramcianinov, Carolina, Ricardo M. Campos, and Ricardo De Camargo. "CLIMATE CHANGE PERSPECTIVES OF THE CYCLONES AND OCEANIC HAZARDS IN THE WESTERN SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN." Arquivos de Ciências do Mar 55, Especial (March 18, 2022): 141–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.32360/acmar.v55iespecial.78186.
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Cyclone-related oceanic hazards, such as extreme waves and surges, are frequently reported on the western South Atlantic. These events are associated with coastal erosion, coastal infrastructure damage, maritime navigation, and offshore industry incidents, being important for safety and maintenance management in ocean engineering. Present climate trends and future projections of this event are frequently linked with the expected general poleward shift of the storm track over the globe, but regional approaches revealed a slight increase in the cyclonic activity in South America 35ºS and 40ºS, which would be restricted to the coast. However, the signals of these changes are weak and frequently of the same magnitude of model biases, producing results with a lack of confidence, especially in the coastal zone. Extreme events related to waves and surges used to present large uncertainty and heterogeneity around the globe. Most of the problems regarding future estimation rely on methodological limitations that will not overrun without collaborative efforts to the improvement of observational-based science. Taking advantage of the UN Ocean Decade goals, national and regional initiatives need to collaborate towards a robust and continuous Brazilian observational network in order to face the climate crises in the country.
Keywords: ocean wind-waves, coastal flooding, storm surge, extratropical cyclones, ocean waves, natural hazards.
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Staneva, J., K. Wahle, H. Günther, and E. Stanev. "Coupling of wave and circulation models in coastal-ocean predicting systems: a case study for the German Bight." Ocean Science Discussions 12, no. 6 (December 21, 2015): 3169–97. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/osd-12-3169-2015.
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Abstract. This study addresses the impact of coupling between wind wave and circulation models on the quality of coastal ocean predicting systems. This is exemplified for the German Bight and its coastal area known as the Wadden Sea. The latter is the area between the barrier islands and the coast. This topic reflects the increased interest in operational oceanography to reduce prediction errors of state estimates at coastal scales, which in many cases are due to unresolved nonlinear feedback between strong tidal currents and wind-waves. In this study we present analysis of wave and hydrographic observations, as well as results of numerical simulations. A nested-grid modelling system is used to producing reliable nowcasts and short-term forecasts of ocean state variables, including wind waves and hydrodynamics. The data base includes ADCP observations and continuous measurements from data stations. The individual and collective role of wind, waves and tidal forcing are quantified. The performance of the forecast system is illustrated for the cases of several extreme events. Effects of ocean waves on coastal circulation and sea level are investigated by considering the wave-dependent stress and wave breaking parameterization. Also the effects which the circulation exerts on the wind waves are tested for the coastal areas using different parameterizations. The improved skill of the coupled forecasts compared to the non-coupled ones, in particular during extreme events, justifies the further enhancements of coastal operational systems by including wind wave models.
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Grimshaw, Roger, Efim Pelinovsky, and Tatiana Talipova. "Modelling Internal Solitary Waves in the Coastal Ocean." Surveys in Geophysics 28, no. 4 (July 7, 2007): 273–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10712-007-9020-0.
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Yuan, T., X. Wang, K. Qu, and L. B. Zhang. "Hydrodynamic Loads and Overtopping Processes of a Coastal Seawall under the Coupled Impact of Extreme Waves and Wind." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 11, no. 11 (October 31, 2023): 2087. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse11112087.
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Driven by strong winds, huge ocean waves can cause devastating destruction to coastal regions during harsh weather events. There is growing evidence showing that extreme waves can occur in both shallow and deep waters. To protect the coast against the destructive power of huge waves, coastal protection facilities, such as seawalls, are often built along the coast. The integrity and stability of these coastal protection facilities are essential to the safety of coastal regions. Since huge waves are often accompanied by strong winds in real ocean environments, to fill the knowledge gap left by previous relevant studies, this study numerically investigates the hydrodynamic loads and overtopping of a coastal seawall model on a sloped beach under the coupled impact of an extreme wave group and wind. The influences of several main factors are considered, such as water depth, wind speed, and significant wave height. The research results reveal that strong wind can greatly increase the average overtopping rate and enhance the hydrodynamic loads exerted by the extreme wave group on the seawall.
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Shimura, Tomoya, William J. Pringle, Nobuhito Mori, Takuya Miyashita, and Kohei Yoshida. "GLOBAL OCEAN WAVES AND STORM SURGE CHANGES UNDER A WARMING CLIMATE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 37 (October 2, 2023): 41. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.management.41.
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Impact assessments of climate change on coastal hazard risk are conducted in order to evaluate how coastal communities should adapt their coastal defense systems and other mitigation measures going forward. In this context, global mean sea level rise has been well-studied for several decades now. In addition, to mean sea level rise, it is important to estimate future changes in extreme sea levels due to storm surges and ocean waves for coastal adaptation purposes. This study aims to estimate the climate change impacts on both global waves and storm surges under an extremely high-resolution Global Climate Model (GCM) forcing continuously over 150 years, starting from the mid-20th century and extending to the end of the 21st century as the climate warms. This allows us to gain a consistent and temporally seamless understanding of past and projected future changes to global waves and storm surges.
Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Coastal Ocean Waves"
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Trainor, Lincoln Thomas. "Field observations and SWAN model predictions of wave evolution in a muddy coastal environment." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School, 2009. http://edocs.nps.edu/npspubs/scholarly/theses/2009/Jun/09Jun%5FTrainor.pdf.
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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2009.Thesis Advisor(s): Herbers, Thomas H. C. ; Janssen, Tim T. "June 2009." Description based on title screen as viewed on July 14, 2009. Author(s) subject terms: ocean waves, continental shelf, mud, littoral, SWAN. Includes bibliographical references (p. 69-71). Also available in print.
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Orszaghova, Jana. "Solitary waves and wave groups at the shore." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2011. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:5b168bdc-4956-4152-a303-b23a6067bf42.
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A significant proportion of the world's population and physical assets are located in low lying coastal zones. Accurate prediction of wave induced run-up and overtopping of sea defences are important in defining the extent and severity of wave action, and in assessing risk to people and property from severe storms and tsunamis. This thesis describes a one-dimensional numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sorensen (1992) and the non-linear shallow water equations. The model is suitable for simulating propagation of weakly non-linear and weakly dispersive waves from intermediate to zero depth, such that any inundation and/or overtopping caused by the incoming waves is also calculated as part of the simulation. Wave breaking is approximated by locally switching to the non-linear shallow water equations, which can model broken waves as bores. A piston paddle wavemaker is incorporated into the model for complete reproduction of laboratory experiments. A domain mapping technique is used in the vicinity of the paddle to transform a time-varying domain into a fixed domain, so that the governing equations can be more readily solved. First, various aspects of the numerical model are verified against known analytical and newly derived semi-analytical solutions. The complete model is then validated with laboratory measurements of run-up and overtopping involving solitary waves. NewWave focused wave groups, which give the expected shape of extreme wave events in a linear random sea, are used for further validation. Simulations of experiments of wave group run-up on a plane beach yield very good agreement with the measured run-up distances and free surface time series. Wave-by-wave overtopping induced by focused wave groups is also successfully simulated with the model, with satisfactory agreement between the experimental and the predicted overtopping volumes. Repeated simulations, now driven by second order paddle displacement signals, give insight into second order error waves spuriously generated by using paddle signals derived from linear theory. Separation of harmonics reveals that the long error wave is significantly affecting the wave group shape and leading to enhanced runu-up distances and overtopping volumes. An extensive parameter study is carried out using the numerical model investigating the influence on wave group run-up of linear wave amplitude at focus, linear focus location, and wave group phase at focus. For a given amplitude, both the phase and the focus location significantly affect the wave group run-up. It is also found that the peak optimised run-up increases with the wave amplitude, but wave breaking becomes an inhibiting factor for larger waves. This methodology is proposed for extreme storm wave induced run-up analysis.
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Siddorn, Philip David. "Efficient numerical modelling of wave-structure interaction." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2012. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:de36bd2f-cd23-4f11-b67f-9d8cd48ecd3c.
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Offshore structures are required to survive in extreme wave environments. Historically, the design of these offshore structures and vessels has relied on wave-tank experiments and linear theory. Today, with advances in computing power, it is becoming feasible to supplement these methods of analysis with fully nonlinear numerical simulation. This thesis is concerned with the development of an efficient method to perform this numerical modelling, in the context of potential flow theory. The interaction of a steep ocean wave with a floating body involves a moving free surface and a wide range of length scales. Attempts to reduce the size of the simulation domain cause problems with wave reflection from the domain edge and with the accurate creation of incident waves. A method of controlling the wave field around a structure is presented. The ability to effectively damp an outgoing wave in a very short distance is demonstrated. Steep incident waves are generated without the requirement for the wave to evolve over a large time or distance before interaction with the body. This enables a general wave-structure interaction problem to be modelled in a small tank, and behave as if it were surrounded by a large expanse of water. The suitability of the boundary element method for performing this modelling is analysed. Potential improvements are presented with respect to accuracy, robustness, and computational complexity. Evidence of third order diffraction is found for an FPSO model.
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Mohd, Haniffah Mohd Ridza. "Wave evolution on gentle slopes : statistical analysis and Green-Naghdi modelling." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2013. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:26270be8-c3ee-4749-a290-7bdb4a174a4a.
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An understanding of extreme waves is important in the design and analysis of offshore structures, such as oil and gas platforms. With the increase of interest in the shipping of LNG, the design of import and export terminals in coastal water of slowly varying intermediate depth requires accurate analysis of steep wave shoaling. In this thesis, data from laboratory experiments involving random wave simulations on very gentle slopes have been analysed in terms of a model of large wave events, and the results interpreted by observation of the shape and magnitude of the large wave events. The auto-correlation function of the free surface elevation time histories, called NewWave, has been calculated from the wave spectrum and shown to fit very well up to the point where waves start to break (when compared to the ‘linear’ surface elevation time history). It has been shown that NewWave is an appropriate model for the shape of the ‘linear’ part of large waves provided kd > 0.5. A Stokes-like expansion for NewWave analysis has been demonstrated to match the average shape of the largest waves, accounting for the dominant vertical asymmetry. Furthermore, an appropriate local wave period derived from NewWave has been inserted into a Miche-based limiting criterion, using the linear dispersion equation, to obtain estimates for the limiting wave height. Overall, the analysis confirms the Miche-type criterion applies to limiting wave height for waves passing over very mild bed slopes. A derivation of general Green-Naghdi (GN) theory, which incorporates non-linear terms in its formulation, is also presented. This approach satisfies the boundary conditions exactly and approximates the field equations. The derived 2-dimensional vertical GN Level 1 model, capable of simulating steep waves on varying water depth, is validated against solitary waves and their interactions, and solitary waves on varying water depth and gives good qualitative agreement against the KdV equation. The developed and validated numerical model is used to simulate focussed wave groups on both constant depth and gentle slope. In general, the behaviour of waves simulated by the numerical model is very similar to that observed in the experimental data. There is evidence of vertical asymmetry as the water depth is reduced, owing to the non-linearity. Although the main physics is still controlled by linear dispersion, the higher order harmonics become increasingly important for shoaling waves. The numerical results also show a slope-induced wave set-up that keeps on increasing in amplitude as the wave group travels on the gentle slope.
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Morim, Nascimento Joao M. "Projections of Global Multivariate Wave Climate for the End of The 21st Century: Robustness and Uncertainties." Thesis, Griffith University, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10072/398879.
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Ocean wind-waves are dominant contributors to coastal sea-level and shoreline dynamics and can be primary disruptors of coastal populations, marine ecosystems and coastal and offshore infrastructures. Hence, understanding climate-driven changes in the multivariate global ocean wind-wave climate and its extremes is paramount to successful offshore and coastal climate adaptation planning. When projecting future ocean wave conditions under climate change, uncertainty is introduced from a wide range of different sources including future emission scenario, climate model-forcing, and wind-wave modelling methodology. However, the use of single-method wave downscaling ensembles and inherent variability arising from different methodologies has led to unquantified uncertainty amongst existing global wave climate projections.
This thesis addresses this significant knowledge gap by investigating the current state of knowledge in projected ocean wind-wave climate. It then, for the first time, quantifies the relative significance of these major sources of uncertainty and establishes the robustness among existing global wave climate projections. This thesis addresses former limitations associated with independent studies by performing a unique analysis of a coordinated, multi-method ensemble of future global wave scenarios assembled from ten individual state-of-the-art studies to yield a 155-member ensemble. This thesis analyses significant wave height, mean wave period and mean wave direction and also explores the underlying large-scale drivers of projected future changes in storm ocean wave events which remain largely unknown.
The results of a systematic literature review demonstrate qualitative consensus between existing global and regional-scale wave climate projection studies in terms of a projected increase in mean significant wave height within the Southern Ocean area, Baltic Sea, and tropical eastern Pacific, and a projected decrease in the North Atlantic and Mediterranean Sea. In contrast, current projections of mean ocean significant wave height lack scientific consensus across the remaining ocean regions, with existing projections of extreme wave climate lacking consensus almost everywhere. In addition, results demonstrate a notable lack of knowledge in terms of projected changes in wave period and/or wave direction which are of critical importance, particularly for the mitigation of coastal hazards/risks. Furthermore, the projection uncertainty surrounding wind-wave climate projections has been poorly sampled to date, therefore implying a need for a shift towards a systematic, community-based framework to foster concerted knowledge.
Quantitative analysis of surface wind fields from CMIP5 models used to force dynamical and statistical wave models demonstrate that climate models are typically well capable of reliably reproducing large-scale spatial patterns of historical surface winds, albeit there is considerable uncertainty between models with strong latitudinal dependence. Inter-model uncertainty is ~2-4 times larger than uncertainty stemming from GCM internal variability. In addition, results show that CMIP5 climate models exhibit limitations in their ability to accurately represent inter-annual/seasonal variability particularly within tropical cyclone-affected areas. In further analysis, results that surface wind field bias from climate models are largely intrinsic to their atmospheric core components. Inconsistency between surface wind fields from atmospheric-only and coupled models are largely driven by sea surface temperature errors.
To address the existing limitations surrounding future wave climate, a large 155-member ensemble has been collated from ten contributing organisations as part of the COWCLIP (herein Coordinated Ocean Wave Climate Project) community. The ensemble comprises general and extreme statistics of significant wave height, mean wave period, and mean wave direction computed over historical (1979-2004) and future (2081-2100) time slices. This ensemble comprises data originated from different wave downscaling approaches, multiple climate-model forcing and future emissions scenarios. Results of wave ensemble model skill against satellite-database measurements of ocean significant wave height and multivariate wave reanalysis for the present-day time-slice demonstrate that models are able to successfully represent annual and seasonal wave variable statistics.
Quantitative results derived from this new coordinated multi-method ensemble show, that under a high-emissions scenario, widespread ocean areas exhibit robust changes in annual mean significant wave height and mean wave period of 5-15% and pattern shifts in mean wave direction of 5-15°. Results show that approximately 50% of the world’s coastline is at risk from wave climate change, with ~40% revealing projected robust changes across at least two wave climate variables. Furthermore, results demonstrate that uncertainty in current projections is dominated by climate model-driven uncertainty and also that single-method downscaling studies are unable to resolve up to ~50% of the total uncertainty.
In further analysis, hemispheric-scale changes in extreme ocean wave events are analysed using a set of proposed indices that describe the frequency, magnitude and/or persistency of such events. The results demonstrate changes in high-frequency (sub-annual) extreme wave events of the order of 50 to 100% for global warming exceeding 2° C; thus, nearly doubling the projected future changes expected for global warming stabilizing below 2° C (when globally integrated). These changes exhibit strong inter-hemispheric asymmetry, with an increase over the tropics and high latitudes of the Southern Hemisphere, and a widespread decrease across most of the Northern Hemisphere.
Lastly, statistical comparison between projected future changes and historical large-scale patterns of change demonstrate that projected changes in extreme wave events across the tropics, high latitudes of the Southern Hemisphere region and across most of the Northern Hemisphere are consistent with their historical response to the positive and negative phase modes of the Southern Annular Mode (SAM) and El Nino-Southern-Oscillation (ENSO), respectively. These results highlight that many nations with low-adaptive capacity located within the Southern Hemisphere region (e.g. West Africa, Australia, New Zealand) will likely face increasing exposure to much more frequent extreme wave events in the future.
The results presented in this thesis, and the dataset developed, provide a new perspective on the knowledge on global wave climate projections, providing key insights and support for broad-scale coastal risk and vulnerability assessments and climate adaptation analysis around the world. Whilst the results presented in this thesis have far-reaching implications from many different perspectives, they only address meteorologically-driven changes in ocean wave characteristics. Concentrated community effort is urgently needed to quantify morphologically-driven wave climate change as a contributor to global coastal water level changes, as we look towards improved coastal vulnerability assessments from the climate community.Thesis (PhD Doctorate)
Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)
School of Eng & Built Env
Science, Environment, Engineering and Technology
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Raby, Alison Caroline. "Extreme waves, overtopping and flooding at sea defences." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2003. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:82fcc770-8838-4f9b-9abe-32eecdd05f9a.
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This thesis describes experiments that were carried out using focused wave groups in the UK Coastal Research Facility (UKCRF). Considerable effort was put into calibrating the UKCRF to determine the relationship between the input signals sent to the paddles and the waves generated in the facility. Focused wave groups of various sizes and phases, based on NewWave theory were generated, and measurements were made of the resulting surface elevation data, water particle kinematics, wave runup and overtopping volumes. NewWave theory models the profile of extreme waves in a Gaussian (random) sea. The thesis describes the first time this model has been applied in the context of coastal wave transformation. A method for the separation of the underlying harmonic structure of a focused wave group is described and results presented. This technique has been used in relatively deep water but is shown to work successfully in the coastal zone until wave overturning. A method has been devised to provide a theoretical Stokes-like expansion of the free and bound waves to model the surface elevation and water particle kinematics of the focused wave groups. Satisfactory agreement is achieved between the theoretical predictions of UKCRF measurements. Suggestions are made for an improved model. The underlying harmonic structure of the focused wave groups is presented as stacked time histories that give insight into the wave transformation process from deep to shallow water. Particular attention is paid to the low frequency wave generated as the wave group interacts with the beach. This is compared to the low frequency wave that is generated by a solitary wave in the UKCRF. Runup and overtopping measurements are in reasonable agreement with predictions based on certain empirical formulae, but not others. These comparisons are useful in identifying those formulae able to predict runup and overtopping of extreme waves in the coastal zone.
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Grice, James Robert. "Prediction of extreme wave-structure interactions for multi-columned structures in deep water." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2013. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:dd7320c1-7121-4ea7-827f-527af9405e9a.
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With a continuing and rising demand for hydrocarbons, the energy companies are installing infrastructure ever further offshore, where such infrastructure is often exposed to extreme waves. This thesis explores some aspects of wave-structure interaction, particularly the maximum water surface elevation increase in severe storms due to these local interactions. The effects on wave-structure interactions of column cross-sectional shape are investigated using linear and second-order wave diffraction theory. For multi-column structures, the excitation of locally resonant wave modes (near-trapping) is studied for several column cross-sectional shapes, and a simple method for estimating the surface elevation mode shape is given. The structure of the quadratic transfer functions for second-order sum wave elevation is investigated and an approximation assuming these QTFs are flat perpendicular to the leading diagonal is shown to be adequate for the first few lowest frequency modes. NewWave-type focused wave groups can be used as a more realistic model of extreme ocean waves. A Net Amplification Factor based on the NewWave model is given as an efficient tool for finding the incident frequencies most likely to cause a violent wave-structure interaction and where these violent responses are likely to occur. Statistics are collected from Monte Carlo type simulations of random waves to verify the use of the Net Amplification Factor. Going beyond linear calculations, surface elevation statistics are collected to second-order and a `designer' wave is found to model the most extreme surface elevation responses. A `designer' wave can be identified at required levels of return period to help to understand the relative size of harmonic components in extreme waves. The methods developed with a fixed body are then applied to an identical hull which is freely floating, and the responses between the fixed and moving cases are compared. The vertical heave motion of a semi-submersible in-phase with the incident wave crests is shown to lead to a much lower probability of water-deck impact for the same hull shape restrained vertically. The signal processing methods developed are also applied to a single column to allow comparison with experimental results. Individual harmonic components of the hydrodynamic force are identified up to at least the fifth harmonic. Stokes scaling is shown to hold even for the most violent interactions. It is also shown that the higher harmonic components of the hydrodynamic force can be reconstructed from just the fundamental force time history, and a transfer function in the form of a single phase and an amplitude for each harmonic. The force is also reconstructed well to second-order from the surface elevation time history using diffraction transfer functions. Finally, possible causes of damage to a platform high above mean water level in the North Sea are investigated.
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Stuart, Duncan Charles Alistair. "Characterizing long wave agitation in the port of Ngqura using a Boussinesq wave model." Thesis, Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University, 2013. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/85567.
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Thesis (MScEng)-- Stellenbosch University, 2013.ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The port of Ngqura is situated on the east coast of South Africa. Since its first operational winter excessive vessel motions have interrupted container shipping operations and lead to mooring line failure. A major component contributing to the excessive motions is the presence of seiching in the port, resonating long waves. This study investigates the long wave generation, penetration into the port and subsequent resonance in the vicinity of the problem berths. An extensive literature review identified two predominant types of long waves along the coast of South Africa. Long waves with periods over 12 min generated by resonant air-water coupling and then shorter long waves between 30 s and 6 min attributed to bound long wave energy and broadly speaking, surf beat. A review of the state of the art long wave modelling techniques was included and contributed to the methodology in this study. Analysis of simultaneous measurements from the outside and inside of the port confirmed the generating mechanism of the long waves to be storm systems also responsible for generating short waves. Long waves outside the port were found to be on average 8% of the height of the short waves. On average 90% of the long wave height outside the port penetrated the port. The measurements further identified distinct resonating periods of the long wave energy inside the port. Calibrated Boussinesq wave models allowed for identification of how long waves penetrated the port and subsequently resonated. Both surface elevation measurements and white noise spectra were used as inputs. The penetration mechanisms were attributed to direct diffraction around the main breakwater as well as reflection off the beach south of the port leading to refraction and reflection off the lee side of the main breakwater. Tests with both free and bound long waves proved that at least for some period intervals the long wave energy was indeed bound to short waves. The excessive vessel motions are attributed to berths positioned in line with nodes created by the resonating long waves; nodes are characterized by strong horizontal currents which can induce surge motions in vessels. Various long waves between the period intervals of 45 s to 125 s resonate in the port to generate nodes at the berths of interest. In conclusion, the port of Ngqura is susceptible to a range of long wave periods resulting in significant basin oscillations which present nodes at mooring places. As a result of the analyses in this study the mechanisms of interaction between the port, port basins and the long waves penetrating into the port directly, or via the surf zone as surf beats, have been modelled, documented and better understood. This provides the potential for better prediction of severe long wave events and for the investigation of feasible mitigation measures to prevent damage to moored ships in the port.
AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Die Ngqura hawe is aan die ooskus van Suid-Afrika geleë. Sedert die hawe se eerste operasionele winterseisoen, het oormatige skeepsbewegings operasies van behoueringskepe onderbreek en gelei tot faling van vasmeertoue. Die teenwoordigheid van langgolf resonansie is ‘n groot bydraende faktor tot die oormatige skeepsbewegings. Hierdie studie ondersoek die opwekking, penetrasie en gevolglike resonansie van langgolwe in die areas aangrensend tot die problematiese kaaie. ‘n Uitgebreide literatuurstudie het twee tipes langgolwe aan die Suid-Afrikaanse kus geïdentifiseer, naamlik langgolwe met periodes langer as 12 minute wat deur resonante lug-water koppeling opgewek word en korter langgolwe met periodes tussen 30 s en 6 min wat aan gebonde langgolfenergie of, meer algemeen, surf beat toegeskryf word. Verder is ‘n studie rakende die jongste langgolfmodelleringstegnieke ook uitgevoer waaruit die metodiek van hierdie studie bepaal is. ‘n Analise van gelyktydige opmetings binne en buite die hawe het bevestig dat kortgolwe wat deur stormsisteme gegenereer word, die opwekkingsmeganisme van lang golwe is. Daar is bevind dat langgolwe buite die hawe gemiddeld 8% so hoog soos kort golwe is. ‘n Gemiddeld van 90% van die langgolfhoogte het die hawe penetreer. Die opmetings het ook verder duidelike resonansieperiodes van langgolfenergie binne die hawe aangedui. Gekalibreerde Boussinsq-golfmodelle is gebruik om te indentifiseer hoe langgolwe die hawe binnedring en gevolglik resoneer. Beide oppervlakmetings en wit geraas spektra is as invoerwaardes vir die model gebruik. Die penetrasiemeganismes is toegeskryf aan diffraksie rondom die hoof hawemuur asook refleksie vanaf die strand, suid van die hawe, wat lei tot refraksie en refleksie teen die lykant van die hoof hawemuur. Toetse met vry langgolwe het bewys dat die langgolfenergie, vir ten minste sommige periode intervalle, aan die kort golwe vebonde is. Die oormatige skeepsbewegings is toegeskryf aan die kaaie wat in lyn met nodes van die langgolfresonansie geposisioneer is. Nodes word gekarakteriseer deur sterk horisontale strome wat surge bewegings in skepe kan veroorsaak. Verskeie langgolwe met periode intervalle tussen 45 s tot 125 s resoneer in die hawe en vorm nodes by die kaaie van belang. Ten slotte, die Ngqura hawe is vatbaar vir ‘n reeks langgolfperiodes wat ossilasies in die bekkens van die hawe veroorsaak en nodes naby kaaie vorm. As gevolg van die analises in hierdie studie is die meganismes van interaksie tussen die hawe, sy bekkens en langgolwe wat die hawe direk of via die brandersone binnedring gemodelleer, gedokumenteer en beter verstaan. Hierdeur is die potensiaal vir beter voorspelling van ernstige langgolftoestande verhoog en is dit moontlik gemaak om lewensvatbare oplossings vir skade aan vasgemeerde skepe te ondersoek.
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Kühn, Yannik. "Machine Learning Methods for the Analysis of Coastal Sea States." Electronic Thesis or Diss., Pau, 2024. http://www.theses.fr/2024PAUU3029.
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Des prévisions de vagues précises sont essentielles pour de nombreuses communautés côtières, car elles contribuent à assurer la sécurité des opérations maritimes, la prévention des risques côtiers, ou encore les activités nautiques de loisir. Bien que des prévisions fiables existent aux échelles globales à régionales, les prévisions locales à haute résolution font souvent défaut en raison de leur coût de calcul élevés. Cependant, les récentes avancées en apprentissage automatique ont permis de développer plusieurs approches prometteuses permettant de réduire considérablement le temps de calcul des prévisions.Cette thèse étudie l'une de ces approches d'apprentissage automatique, nommée super-résolution, qui a déjà été employée avec succès pour accélérer les calculs dans le domaine de la mécanique des fluides.Le concept consiste à utiliser un modèle numérique sur un maillage de basse résolution, puis à convertir les résultats en une résolution plus élevée à l'aide d'un modèle d'apprentissage automatique entraîné, évitant ainsi de lourds calculs numériques en haute résolution. Ce travail analyse la faisabilité d'une approche de super-résolution appliquée aux prévisions de vagues en zone côtière. La première partie de cette thèse présente une étude conceptuelle de la méthode de super-résolution appliquée aux résultats d'un modèle spectral de vagues avec maillage structuré. Cette étude démontre qu'une telle approche peut accélérer les prévisions jusqu'à 50 fois par rapport à un calcul direct à haute résolution, avec une erreur négligeable devant celles habituellement observées pour le modèle. La deuxième partie de cette thèse étend la méthode aux maillages non structurés, analysant l'influence des conditions bathymétriques et des régimes énergétiques différents fournis par une simulation rétrospective des états de mer au large de la côte basque. Il est constaté que les réseaux de neurones en graphes et les régressions polynomiales sont deux approches prometteuses, la première étant plus adaptée à des champs de vagues très variables et la seconde à des contextes où le critère de rapidité est essentiel. Une troisième partie de la thèse est consacrée à l'application de la méthode aux spectres de vagues. Bien qu'il soit complexe d'évaluer le meilleur des quatre modèles testés, les résultats suggèrent que la super-résolution est capable de fournir des prédictions précises et rapides des spectres simulés à haute résolution en différents point distribués à travers la zone d'étudePrecise wave forecasts are essential for many coastal communities as they help ensuring safe maritime operations, mitigation of coastal hazards, and the enjoyment of marine recreation. While a reliable global forecast coverage does exist, local, high-resolution forecasts are often not available in many areas due to a significant computational demand. However, recent advances in machine learning have produced several promising approaches to drastically reduce forecast computation time.This thesis investigates one such machine learning approach called super-resolution, that was already successfully employed to speed up computations in fluid mechanics.The concept involves using a numerical model over a mesh with coarse resolution and then converting the results to a higher resolution using a trained machine learning model, thereby avoiding heavy computations in high resolution. This thesis examines the feasibility of the super-resolution approach for coastal wave forecasts. The first part of the thesis presents a proof-of-concept study on data-driven super-resolution using results from a spectral wave model over a structured grid. It demonstrates that this approach can accelerate forecasts by up to 50 times compared to a direct high-resolution computation, with a negligible loss in accuracy. The second part extends this method to unstructured meshes, analyzing the influence of bathymetry and wave energy conditions through a hindcast along the Basque coast. It is found that graph neural networks and polynomial regressions are promising approaches, where the former is suited for highly variable wave fields and the latter for scenarios where speed is paramount. A third part extends the application of super-resolution to wave spectra directly. Despite challenges in evaluating the best model among four tested options, the results suggest that data-driven super-resolution can provide accurate and fast predictions of spatially distributed wave spectra with an accuracy comparable to high-resolution wave model computations
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Wust, Isak. "A feasible design concept for the deep water breakwater of the proposed new Durban Dig-Out Port." Thesis, Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University, 2014. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/95969.
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Thesis (MEng)–Stellenbosch University, 2014.ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The Port of Durban is forecasted to reach its capacity in terms of container handling soon, which necessitates the investigation of an alternative port in the vicinity. The old Durban Airport site has been identified as a potential location to develop a new deep water container harbour. This is driven by a demand for deep water berth capacity as a result of shipping liners preferring the benefits of scale in their operations, leading to the use of larger ships with deeper drafts. To protect the new port from wave energy penetrating inside the basin as well as from sedimentation from the adjacent beaches, the design and construction of breakwaters are required. The proposed main breakwater for this dig-out port is expected to extend 1 200m into the sea, up to depths of 30m at the seaward roundhead. The deeper parts of the breakwater face wave onslaught in a different manner than a conventional breakwater in shallower waters. At these larger depths, the breakwater has to dissipate the energy of non-breaking waves. In this thesis, the wave climate nearshore, adjacent to the proposed breakwater is studied and extreme wave events are simulated with a SWAN numerical model. The results for a range of wave conditions, corresponding to selected events up to a return period of one in 100 years, are presented. A study of deep water breakwaters was undertaken to investigate other examples of similar structures. This indicated a clear distinction between vertical wall type breakwaters and the more traditional rubble-mound type breakwaters. For this thesis, a rubble-mound breakwater was chosen as the breakwater type for testing under conditions of the Durban Dig-Out Port (DDOP). Focussing on a deep water trunk section of the proposed main breakwater, a concept cross-section was designed using deterministic design methods. The formulae incorporated in this method did however not take into account the packing density of the armour layer and only assumed the recommended values. The hypothesis is thus put forward that the breakwater will still be hydraulically stable for packing densities below the recommended values. This would decrease material consumption and save on cost over the entire breakwater. A physical model was designed to experiment with different armour layer configurations of single- and double layer Cubipod arrangements. The unit was chosen for its massive shape and structural integrity even during impact. A physical model study was performed at the facilities of the CSIR in Stellenbosch. It entailed setting up a fixed-bed two-dimensional physical model in a glass wave flume. Measuring wave heights, wave reflection, overtopping, wave transmission and armour damage, the hydraulic stability and operational performance were analysed for several tests. Based on the results of the first few test series, alterations were made to the breakwater geometry and armouring. The results confirmed the hypothesis that lower packing densities were still hydraulically stable under 1 in 100 year return period wave conditions without inhibiting operational performance. A final cross-section is presented as concept design for the deep section of the proposed DDOP main breakwater.
AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Volgens vooruitsigte gaan Durban hawe binnekort sy kapasiteit bereik wat die hantering van skeepshouers betref. Hierdie verwikkeling noodsaak die ondersoek na ‘n alternatiewe hawe in die nabye omgewing. Die voormalige Durban lughawe is intussen geïdentifiseer as ‘n potensiële perseel waar ‘n diep water houervrag hawe ontwikkel kan word. Dit word gedryf deur die aanvraag na diep water kaai kapasiteit as gevolg van skip operateurs wat skaalvoordele verkies, sodat groter skepe met diep rompe meer populêr word. Die ontwerp en konstruksie van breekwaters word dus benodig, om te verhoed dat beide golwe, sowel as sediment van aangrensende strande, die hawe binnedring. Die voorgestelde hoof breekwater vir hierdie hawe sal na verwagting tot 1200m in die see in strek, waar dit tot 30m diep is naby die seewaartse hoof van dié breekwater. Die dieper gedeeltes van só ‘n breekwater sal blootgestel word aan ‘n ander soort golf aanslag as ‘n soortgelyke konvensionele breekwater in vlakker water. In hierdie waterdiepte is die breekwater verantwoordelik vir die energie verbreking van ongebreekte golwe. In hierdie tesis word die golfklimaat langs die kus, naby aan die voorgestelde breekwater bestudeer. Die uiterste golf gebeurtenisse word gesimuleer met ‘n SWAN numeriese model. Die resultate van ‘n reeks golf kondisies, ooreenstemmend met bepaalde gebeurtenissemet herhaal periodes van tot 100 jaar, word aangebied. ‘n Studie van diep water breekwaters is onderneem om voorbeelde van soortgelyke strukture te ondersoek. Die studie toon ‘n definitiewe onderskeid tussen vertikale muur breekwaters en die meer tradisionele “rubble-mound” breekwater tipes. Vir hierdie tesis is die “rubble-mound” breekwater tipe gekies vir toetsing, onderhewig aan die kondisies van die “Durban Dig-Out Port” (DDOP). ‘n Konsep deursnit is ontwerp vir ‘n diep water romp gedeelte van die voorgestelde hoof breekwater, deur van deterministiese metodes gebruik te maak. Die formules soos vervat in hierdie proses maak egter nie voorsiening vir die pakdigtheid van die bewapeningslaag nie, maar aanvaar slegs die voorgestelde waardes. Die hipotese word dus aangevoer dat die breekwater steeds hidrolies stabiel sal wees vir pakdigthede wat laer as die voorgestelde waardes is. Dit sal die verbruik van materiale verlaag en lei tot koste besparings vir die breekwater. ‘n Fisiese model is ontwerp om te eksperimenteer met verskillende opstellings van die bewapeningslaag. Dit sluit enkel- en dubbel laag bewapening met Cubipod eenhede in. Hierdie eenheid is gekies vir sy massiewe vorm en strukturele integriteit, selfs tydens impak. ‘n Fisiese model studie is uitgevoer by die fasiliteite van die WNNR in Stellenbosch. Dit het die opstel van ‘n vaste-bodem, twee-dimensionele fisiese model in ‘n glas golftenk (“wave flume”) behels. Hidroliese stabiliteit en operasionele werksverrigting is geanaliseer deur golf hoogtes, -weerkaatsing, -oorslag, -deurlating, en skade aan die bewapening te meet vir verskeie toetse. Gebasseer op die resultate van die eerste paar toetsreekse, is veranderinge gemaak aan die breekwater se geometrie en bewapening. Die resultate het die hipotese bevestig dat laer pakdigthede steeds hidrolies stabiel is tydens golf kondisies met ‘n 1 in 100 jaar herhaal periode, sonder om die werksverrigting van die breekwater te belemmer. ‘n Finale deursnit word voorgestel as ‘n konsepontwerp vir die diep water deursnit van die DDOP se hoof breekwater.
Books on the topic "Coastal Ocean Waves"
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Sorensen, Robert M. Basic wave mechanics: For coastal and ocean engineers. New York: Wiley, 1993.
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(Firm), Knovel, ed. Waves and wave forces on coastal and ocean structures. Hackensack, N.J: World Scientific, 2006.
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Earle, Marshall Delph. Coastal wave statistical data base. [Los Angeles, Calif.]: The Region, 1988.
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Wiegel, Robert L. Selected coastal engineering papers of Robert L. Wiegel. Reston, Va: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2011.
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Hathaway, Kent K. Infragravity waves in the nearshore zone. Vicksburg, Miss: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, 1998.
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International, Short Course and Workshop on Coastal Processes and Port Engineering (2nd 2006 Università degli studi della Calabria Italy). Proceedings: 2nd International Short Course and Workshop on Coastal Processes and Port Engineering, May 29th-June 1st, 2006, Department for Soil Conservation, University of Calabria, Italy. Castrolibero [Italy]: Nuova Bios, 2007.
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International Conference on Coastal Engineering (25th 1996 Orlando, Fla.). 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering: Book of abstracts : Peabody Hotel, Orlando, Florida, September 2-6, 1996. New York: The Society, 1996.
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International Coastal Engineering Conference (23rd 1992 Venice). Coastal engineering 1992: Proceedings of the twenty-third international conference, October 4-9, 1992, Venice, Italy. New York, N.Y: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1993.
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L, Edge Billy, Coastal Engineering Research Council (U.S.), and International Conference on Coastal Engineering (25th : 1996 : Orlando, Fla.), eds. Coastal engineering 1996: Proceedings of the twenty-fifth international conference, September 2-6, 1996, The Peabody Hotel, Orlando, Florida. New York, N.Y: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1997.
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International Coastal Engineering Conference (23rd 1992 Venice). Coastal engineering 1992: Proceedings of the twenty-third international conference, October 4-9, 1992, Venice, Italy. New York, N.Y: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1993.
Find full textBook chapters on the topic "Coastal Ocean Waves"
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Chaney, Ronald C. "Ocean Waves." In Pacific Northwest Coastal Environments, 63–97. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/9781003454212-7.
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You, Zai-Jin, and Peter Nielsen. "Extreme Coastal Waves, Ocean Surges and Wave Runup." In Coastal Hazards, 677–733. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands, 2012. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-007-5234-4_22.
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Lynett, Patrick J., and James M. Kaihatu. "Modeling of Coastal Waves and Hydrodynamics." In Springer Handbook of Ocean Engineering, 597–610. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-16649-0_27.
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Berger, Marsha. "Asteroid-Generated Tsunamis: A Review." In SEMA SIMAI Springer Series, 3–17. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-86236-7_1.
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AbstractWe study ocean waves caused by an asteroid airburst located over the ocean. The concern is that the waves would damage distant coastal cities. Simple qualitative analysis suggests that the wave energy is proportional to the ocean depth and the strength and speed of the blast. Computational simulations using GeoClaw and the shallow water equations show that explosions from realistic asteroids do not endanger distant cities. We explore the validity of the shallow water, Boussinesq, and linearized Euler equations to model these water waves.
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Baer, L., D. Esteva, L. Huff, W. Iseley, R. Ribe, and M. Earle. "Some Problems in the Development of the National Coastal Waves Program." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, 671–76. Boston, MA: Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_45.
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Zhang, Longgang. "Three-Dimensional Characteristics Observation of Ocean Waves in Coastal Areas by Microwave Doppler Radar." In Advances in 3D Image and Graphics Representation, Analysis, Computing and Information Technology, 51–57. Singapore: Springer Singapore, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-981-15-3867-4_6.
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Huthnance, J. M. "Coastal Trapped Waves." In Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, 489–96. Elsevier, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1006/rwos.2001.0121.
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Huthnance, John M. "Coastal-Trapped Waves." In Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, 598–605. Elsevier, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-409548-9.11326-0.
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Huthnance, J. M. "Coastal Trapped Waves." In Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, 591–98. Elsevier, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-012374473-9.00121-1.
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"Wind Waves." In Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 3–21. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2011. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789814304269_0002.
Full textConference papers on the topic "Coastal Ocean Waves"
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Zheng, Quanan, Xiao-Hai Yan, V. Klemas, Zongming Wang, Chung-Ru Ho, and Nan-Jung Kuo. "Solitary coastal lee waves observed from space." In Ocean Optics XIII, edited by Steven G. Ackleson and Robert J. Frouin. SPIE, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.1117/12.266423.
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Lin, Ray-Qing, and Weijia Kuang. "Ship Motion Instabilities in Coastal Regions." In ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2009-79753.
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Ship motion instabilities occur much more frequently in coastal regions than in the deep ocean because both nonlinear wave-wave interactions and wave-current interactions increase significantly as the water depth decreases. This is particularly significant in the coastal regions connecting to the open ocean, since the wave resonant interactions change from the four-equivalent-wave interaction in deep water to the interactions of three local wind waves with a long wave (e.g. swell, edge waves, bottom topography waves, etc.) in shallow water [1, 2], resulting in rapid growth of the incoming long waves. In this study, we use our DiSSEL (Digital, Self-consistent, Ship Experimental Laboratory) Ship Motion Model [3,4,5,6] coupled with our Coastal Wave Model [1,2,11] and an Ocean Circulation Model [7] to simulate strongly nonlinear ship motions in coastal regions, focusing on the ship motion instabilities arising from ship body-surface wave-current interactions.
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Hwang, Paul A., Ian R. Young, David W. Wang, Erick Rogers, James Kaihatu, Edward J. Walsh, William B. Krabill, and Robert N. Swift. "Directional Wavenumber Spectra of Ocean Surface Waves." In 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE). Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40549(276)105.
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Su, Ming-Yang, Cheng-Han Tsai, Yin-Chern Lin, and Hsiang-Mao Tseng. "Nonlinear Dynamical Mechanisms Connecting Ocean Giant Waves and Wave Groups." In ASME 2002 21st International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2002-28139.
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It is well known by direct observations that large ocean waves occur, more frequently among a wave group or group waves, than individually. Several statistical relationships among these two wave features have also been discussed in the past thirty years. However, the dynamical reasons (or mechanisms), why these two ocean wave features are often related, have seldom been discussed in sufficient details. The purpose of this paper are two fold: (1) to review various observations of wave groups and giant waves obtained from deep seas, coastal zones and laboratory experiments, and (2) to provide several significant physical and dynamical mechanisms for explaining the observed close relationship between these two important wave features. (3) to provide an example of a giant wave (called mad-dog waves) event, which resulted in the drowning of fishermen, occurred on the coast of Taiwan.
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Verhagen, L. A., L. H. Holthuijsen, and Y. S. Won. "Modelling Ocean Waves in the Columbia River Entrance." In 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1993. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872629332.220.
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Tang, Jun, Yongming Shen, and Yigang Lv. "Numerical Study on Coastal Wave and Near-Shore Current Interaction." In ASME 2014 33rd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2014-23651.
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Coastal waves and near-shore currents have been investigated by many researchers. This paper developed a two-dimensional numerical model of near-shore waves and currents to study breaking wave induced current. In the model, near-shore water wave was simulated by a parabolic mild slope equation incorporating current effect and wave energy dissipation due to breaking, and current was simulated by a nonlinear shallow water equation incorporating wave exerted radiation stress. Wave radiation stress was calculated based on complex wave amplitude in the parabolic mild slope equation, and this result in an effective method for calculating wave radiation stress using an intrinsic wave propagation angle that differs from the ones of using explicit wave propagation angle. Wave and current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and current equation to a steady state. The model was used to study waves and wave-induced longshore currents at the Obaköy coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. The numerical results for water wave induced longshore current were validated by measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model, and water waves and longshore currents were analyzed based on the numerical results.
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KALRA, TARANDEEP S., CHRISTOPHER R. SHERWOOD, JOHN C. WARNER, YASHAR RAFATI, and TIAN-JIAN HSU. "INVESTIGATING BEDLOAD TRANSPORT UNDER ASYMMETRICAL WAVES USING A COUPLED OCEAN-WAVE MODEL." In International Conference on Coastal Sediments 2019. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0052.
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Liu, Paul C., and Nobuhito Mori. "Wavelet Spectrum of Freak Waves in the Ocean." In 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE). Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40549(276)84.
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Chagas, F. M., B. R. F. Rachid, B. G. Ambrosio, A. A. Luz, C. B. Gramcianinov, P. F. Serrao, R. Camargo, and E. Siegle. "Assessment of Wind and Wave High-Resolution Forecasts During High-Energy Weather Events in the Brazilian Coast." In ASME 2021 40th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2021-62030.
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Abstract We present a high-resolution metocean forecast model (Aimar), which provides 24/7 results for the Brazilian coast. The model integrates global model boundary conditions and detailed coastal models, especially for complex geometry areas near ports and major coastal cities. The aim of this paper is to assess the forecast reliability and to present model data compared to in-situ measurements under high energy weather events. Mean wind velocity and direction were investigated during the occurrence of an extratropical cyclone near Brazilian coast. The model has been assessed by comparing its results to two specific events, one for winds and one for waves. Results of the tested wind event show that Aimar results predict the high energy winds in advance of 5 days, while NCEP’s Global Forecast System Ensemble (GFSe) predicted the same event in advance of 2–3 days, for the region of Santos city. Results of the tested wave event show that Aimar forecasts properly represent the wave propagation for complex geometry coasts. The high-resolution coastal model could predict the nearshore state of sea agitation caused by the passage of a cold front. Model agreement with in-situ wave measurements adjacent to Rio de Janeiro-RJ city were considered Excellent and Good, according to statistical parameters R and RMAE. These results show that high-resolution coastal forecast models can be applied to increase the efficiency, resource uses and reduce the risks for marine operations and engineering works.
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Adytia, Didit, and Lawrence. "Fully Nonlinear Dispersive HAWASSI-VBM for Coastal Zone Simulations." In ASME 2016 35th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2016-54704.
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The accuracy of a wave model for simulating waves in deep and coastal areas is highly determined by the dispersive properties as well as by the nonlinearity of the model. The Variational Boussinesq Model (VBM) for waves [1–4], available publicly as HAWASSI-VBM software [5], is based on the Hamiltonian structure of surface gravity waves. The model has tailor-made dispersive properties, which can be set to be sufficiently accurate for simulating a desired wave field. In this paper, we extend the nonlinear property of the HAWASSI-VBM from weakly nonlinear to be fully nonlinear. To show the improvement in nonlinearity, simulations of the model with a Finite Element implementation is tested against laboratory experiments, of regular and irregular waves propagating above a submerged bar and the dam-break problem.
Reports on the topic "Coastal Ocean Waves"
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Plant, William J. Microwave Measurements of Winds, Waves, and Currents in the Global and Coastal Ocean. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada635378.
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Ptsuty, Norbert, Andrea Habeck, and Christopher Menke. Shoreline position and coastal topographical change monitoring at Gateway National Recreation Area: 2017–2022 and 2007–2022 trend report. National Park Service, August 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.36967/2299536.
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This trend report summarizes the results of shoreline position and coastal topography monitoring conducted at Gateway National Recreation Area (GATE) in 2007 through 2022. The data collection and report were completed by Rutgers University for the National Park Service, Northeast Coastal and Barrier Network, Inventory and Monitoring Program. Gateway National Recreation Area (GATE) is made up of three units: Sandy Hook Unit, Jamaica Bay Unit (Breezy Point, Plumb Beach), and Staten Island Unit (Great Kills, Miller Field, Fort Wadsworth). Shoreline position change results include a spatial depiction and statistical analysis of annual changes and 5-year changes in shoreline position as well as a longer-term trend analysis incorporating the full shoreline analysis of 2007 through 2022, all following the model presented in Psuty et al. (2022a). Coastal topography datasets include profiles of survey data collected annually, annual change metrics, net change metrics, as well as an alongshore depiction of net change, following the model presented in Psuty et al. (2012). This 2007–2022 trend report is the third GATE trend report to incorporate both shoreline position and coastal topographical change data. Due to the variable exposure to incident waves influencing inputs of sediment to the alongshore transport system in the various units from updrift sources, there was no common direction of shoreline displacement or profile change throughout the GATE park units. Engineering structures along the beach and adjacent to inlets altered the shoreline position and coastal topography responses in much of GATE. Generally, the largest vectors of shoreline position change and changes in coastal topography were produced by natural impacts such as storms and by anthropogenic impacts such as dredging or beach nourishment at an updrift location. All of the park units in GATE displayed the impacts of an absence of a source of sediment to counter the erosional impacts of the coastal storms. All of the units had a net inland displacement of shoreline position over the survey period, with some short term recovery associated with local pulses of sediment transfer. Sites with ocean exposure were more heavily eroded (Sandy Hook Oceanside, Breezy Point Oceanside, and Great Kills Oceanside), than sheltered sites (Sandy Hook Bayside, Breezy Point Bayside, Great Kills Bayside, Plumb Beach, Miller Field, Fort Wadsworth). A comparison of the shoreline position and profile data from this survey period with those from the previous trend reports highlights the impacts of Hurricane Sandy and the variety of recovery episodes throughout GATE (Psuty et al. 2018). The trend lines for the sites are often divided into pre-Hurricane Sandy (2012) and post- Hurricane Sandy because of the magnitude of the changes to the shoreline position (1D) and coastal topography (2D) metrics. There was considerable resilience in the system to re-establish the dune-beach system, although not in its original location. The continuing negative sediment budget and the increasing rate of relative sea-level rise will result in episodic inland migration of the dune-beach system and will necessitate a concomitant review of the allocation of space for visitor use and recreation.
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Venayagamoorthy, Subhas K. Internal Wave Driven Mixing and Transport in the Coastal Ocean. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 2013. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada598311.
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Venayagamoorthy, Subhas K. Internal Wave Driven Mixing and Transport in the Coastal Ocean. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada623415.
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Xie, Lian, and Leonard J. Pietrafesa. Incorporation of Surface Wave Effects into a Coastal Ocean Circulation Model. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, September 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada629884.
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Li, Honghai, Carter Rucker, Lihwa Lin, and Kevin Conner. Use of sediment tracers to evaluate sediment plume at Beaufort Inlet and Adjacent Beaches, North Carolina. Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.), April 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.21079/11681/48379.
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This report documents a numerical modeling investigation on the transport of sediment material placed on designated disposal sites adjacent to Beaufort Inlet, North Carolina. Historical and newly collected wave and hydrodynamic data around the inlet are assembled and analyzed. The data sets are used to calibrate and validate a coastal wave, hydrodynamic and sediment transport model, the Coastal Modeling System. Model alternatives are developed corresponding to different material placement sites. Sediment transport and sediment plume distribution are evaluated within and around the immediate vicinity of the Beaufort Inlet estuarine system for a representative summer and winter month. Results of model simulations show that high flows occur along navigation channels and low flows occur outside the inlet in open ocean area. Sand materials placed in nearshore sites tend to be trapped in and move along navigation channels entering the inlet. In offshore placement sites the sediment plume shows slow spreading and no significant sand migration from its release locations. Simulations for the summer and winter month present similar distribution patterns of sediments originating from placement sites.
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Li, Honghai, Carter Rucker, Lihwa Lin, and Kevin Conner. Use of sediment tracers to evaluate sediment plume at Cape Fear River Inlet and Adjacent Beaches, North Carolina. Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.), April 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.21079/11681/48380.
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This report documents a numerical modeling investigation on the transport of sediment material placed on designated disposal sites adjacent to Cape Fear River Inlet, North Carolina. Historical and newly collected wave and hydrodynamic data around the inlet are assembled and analyzed. The data sets are used to calibrate and validate a coastal wave, hydrodynamic, and sediment transport model, the Coastal Modeling System. Model alternatives are developed corresponding to different material placement sites. Sediment transport and sediment plume distribution are evaluated within and around the immediate vicinity of Cape Fear River Inlet estuarine system for a representative summer and a winter month. Results of model simulations show that high flows occur along navigation channels and low flows occur outside the inlet in open ocean area. Sand materials placed in disposal sites tend to be trapped in and move along navigation channel and in these offshore placement sites sediment plume shows slow spreading and no significant sand migration from its release locations. Simulations for the summer and winter month present similar distribution patterns of sediments originating from placement sites.
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Ocampo-Torres, F. J. Spatial Variations of Ocean Wave Spectra in Coastal Regions from RADARSAT and ERS Synthetic Aperture Radar Images. Natural Resources Canada/ESS/Scientific and Technical Publishing Services, 2000. http://dx.doi.org/10.4095/219636.
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Wiggert, Jerry, Brandy Armstrong, Mustafa Kemal Cambazoglu, and K. K. Sandeep. Mid-Breton Sediment Diversion (MBrSD) Assessment – Final Report. The University of Southern Mississippi, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.18785/sose.001.
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The purpose of this project is to provide managers at the Mississippi Department of Marine Resources (MDMR) with the scientific information needed to accurately address public concerns regarding the potential effects of the Louisiana Coastal Master Plan / Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority (CPRA) Mid-Breton Sediment Diversion (MBrSD) on the jurisdictional waters and resources of Mississippi. The stated design purpose of the MBrSD is to reconnect and re-establish the deltaic sediment deposition process between the Mississippi River and the Breton Sound Basin through a diversion that will deliver up to 75,000 cfs of sediment-laden freshwater. The report presented herein provides model-based guidance on the impact that the introduction of the MBrSD will have on salinity conditions in the Mississippi Sound (MSS) and Mississippi's jurisdictional waters that encompass oyster reef locations. Oysters are key ecosystem health indicators and economic drivers for the State of Mississippi and freshwater diversions into the western MS Sound (WMSS) have recently led to significant, unprecedented environmental impacts resulting in oyster mortality. The potential addition of a new pathway for additional freshwater to be introduced into the MSS requires careful assessment of the potential impacts that may be incurred. This project is designed to assess the impact of implementing the MBrSD on the physical environment in the WMSS. The primary aim is to understand the connectivity between MBrSD-derived freshwater input to Breton Sound on the environmental conditions impacting the oyster reefs of the WMSS near Bay St. Louis. A physical ocean modeling system based on the Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment Transport (COAWST) has been used to simulate the circulation and dynamics over the entire MSS with the analysis presented herein focusing particularly on the western to central MSS. This project demonstrates the importance of applying modeling-based scientific research and the capability of physical ocean circulation models for assessing aquatic ecosystem health, particularly in key oyster reef areas.
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Haxel, Joe H., and Sarah K. Henkel. Measuring changes in ambient noise levels from the installation and operation of a surge wave energy converter in the coastal ocean. Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI), October 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.2172/1400245.
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