Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Clothing and dress – Political aspects'

In the history of sartorial reflection, the usual offerings for human motivations to dress are: protection (i.e. from the elements), modesty, decoration, and socio-political self-expression. The literature on clothing rarely attends, however, to the question of garments' impact on wearers' self-experience. There is some social science research, for example, suggesting that when we wear clothing we associate with individuals who have a high degree of mental focus and attention to detail, it causes us - probably, in most cases, pre-reflectively - to experience ourselves as such and therefore to perform better on tests that measure these qualities. Apart from this research, exploration into the matter, regardless of field, is scant, but it is especially thin in philosophy and theology. This thesis seeks to address the shortfall in these fields by providing at least one model of the human relationship to clothes that, unlike what is currently on offer, accounts for findings like the above. To do so, it draws on the sartorial reflection of the British artist and essayist Eric Gill, who understands clothes as architectural spaces of sorts, as encasements that house our being, and the German philosopher Martin Heidegger, whose philosophy of being and 'thinking about building' can do similar work less explicitly but more robustly. After outlining this new way of looking at humanity's relationship to clothes, the thesis will conclude by discussing some theological implications. In particular, it discusses how the overlap between Gill's sacramental perspective and Heidegger's similar understanding of an inherently meaning-infused 'world' can yield an account of clothes as facilitators (or hinderers) of the attunement or comportment of openness and/or proximity to God through their potential to bear theological resonances.

The Islamic dress code has been forcibly imposed on the women in Sudan, since 1983, and many feminists researchers have criticized the practices of the veil as a tool to oppress women. This study aimed to explore a group of Sudanese women, currently living in South Africa, experiences and perceptions of the veil, whether the veil is a religious dress code or a tool that has been used to exercise inequality.

The purpose of the study was to investigate Oriental women's clothing acquisition behaviors and to compare their body measurements with the measurements listed in Voluntary Product Standard, PS 42-70. A questionnaire was administered to 101 Oriental women residing in Tucson, Arizona. Thirty-nine body measurements were taken from each subject in the sample. The major type of store used most frequently was department store. It appears that Oriental women were not impulsive buyers or influenced by suggestive selling techniques but highly represented careful shopping characteristics. Fit was the most important consideration in purchasing a garment. Newspapers were the major information source of fashion for Oriental women. A significant fitting problem area appeared in garment length when Oriental women purchased ready-to-wear. Bigger differences were found in vertical than the circumference body measurements for Oriental women when the mean of body measurements was compared with the PS 42-70 measurements.

The purpose of this research was to determine and compare the dimensions of clothing interest between Afrikaans female clothing and textile students at The University of Pretoria and female clothing and textile students at Virginia Tech. An additional objective was to test the validity of the measuring instrument by factor analysis. Dimensions of clothing interest for the two groups were measured with the Gurel-Creekmore Clothing Interest Questionnaire, as revised and shortened by Borsari in 1978. T-tests indicated that the group mean scores differed significantly for three of the five dimensions. The Virginia Tech sample had a higher score on the interest and the self-concept dimensions while the Pretoria sample had a higher mean score on the modesty dimension. The factor structure for the American group was very similar to that established by Borsari in 1978 but differences existed for the structure of the South African group.
Master of Science

This research investigated the relationships between clothing interest and self-perception among scoliosis patients and their non-handicapped peers. The objectives were (1) to investigate the differences in selected clothing interest factors and self-perception domains between female adolescents with scoliosis and non-handicapped female adolescents and (2) to investigate relationships between clothing interests and self-perception among female adolescents with scoliosis and non-handicapped female adolescents.

Data were obtained from 70 female adolescents of which 35 had scoliosis and 35 were non-handicapped. A clothing inventory, developed by Creekmore in 1963 and revised by Borsari in 1978, titled "Dimensions of Clothing Interest," was used to measure clothing dimensions of interest, conformity, modesty, psychological awareness, and self concept.

A second instrument, the "Self-Perception Profile for Adolescents", developed by Harter in 1988, was used to measure five domains of self-perception which were: social acceptance, athletic competence, romantic appeal, physical attractiveness, and global self-worth.

Master of Science

This thesis attempts to survey the function of clothing adornment practices as a form social communication. It is shown that clothing enables the formation and distinction of social groups. The ways in which clothing becomes symbolic for a group and the way in which this system is challenged and/or destroyed are also examined. A distinction between fashion and antifashion is made to enable a repositioning of the Western system of dress into a wider context of meaning. Assumptions on the nature of appearance as related to the concept of truth are examined. Chapter One looks at the various and contradictory myths of body ideals, challenging the opposition of nature and culture. Chapter Two examines the uniform and applies its characteristics to all forms of dress. Chapter Three provides a brief summary of the history of sumptuary laws and how they operate in the social world. Throughout this work, common sense assumptions and privileged reading of particular theoretical frameworks are challenged. Theory itself is subject to fashion, allowing for a comparison to be made between human adornment and the methodologies that attempt to define its practices.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between clothing conformity and personality type according to the Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (MBTI), of a selected group of adult males. Past research indicated that the MBTI had been used in relation to many characteristics such, as creativity, management style, and conformity. Clothing conformity had been investigated in relation to group membership and self-esteem. The researcher was unable to find any research done prior to this study in which clothing conformity and the MBTI had been used to study the relationship between personality type and clothing conformity. The sample consisted of 83 fraternity men from four Greek organizations at Georgia State University. Each respondent filled out the MBTI questionnaire, a clothing conformity scale, and a demographic form. A two to the fourth factorial ANOVA was used to analyze the relationships between clothing conformity scores and various personality types. The results indicated a significant difference in clothing conformity between extraverted and introverted personality types, with extraverts being more conforming than introverts. It also indicated a tendency for judging types to be more conforming than perceiving types. Although not statistically significant, the analysis showed some interaction effect between the extraversion-introversion and the thinking feeling dimensions on clothing conformity. The conclusions from this research are that the extraverts are more conforming in their clothing behavior than introverts, that judging personality types tend to be more conforming than perceiving types, and that the interaction between extraversion-introversion and thinking-feeling shows a tendency for the dependency of one dimension on the other.
Master of Science

Using the framework of attribution theory, the variables of age of professors, formality of dress of professors, and class of student were tested for their influence on college students' expectations of the teaching effectiveness of college professors in a first impression situation. A rating questionnaire containing ten positive professors' traits was developed. An older male and a younger male were photographed in black-and-white in three outfits, for a total of six photographs. The sample consisted of two groups: 179 freshmen and 175 seniors. Each student was randomly assigned one of the six photographs to rate. A Pearson correlation of the ten traits revealed two groups of closely related traits plus some miscellaneous traits. One group represented competence and one represented approachability. A multivariate analysis of variance indicated that the factors of age and formality were significant. Overall, the older professor rated significantly higher than the younger. The older professor received higher scores on knowledge, preparation, and organization, while the younger professor received a higher score on sympathy toward students. The lowest formality rated the highest of the three levels, with the moderate level receiving the lowest score. The lowest level rated significantly higher on clarity of communication. This trait had the highest negative association with formality. The highest and lowest level rated significantly higher for well-prepared. The older professor in the lowest formality of dress rated the highest of all six photographs. The factor of class was not significant. There were no significant two- or three-way interactions. Overall, results indicate that older males are expected to be more effective professors than younger males. Evidently age gives an impression of experience. Casual dress conveys the best impression. Perhaps students can relate more to professors when professors are dressed more like them.
Ph. D.

Female teenagers have been found to be the most affluent teens according to the Rand Youth Poll's nationwide survey. The survey finds the average weekly income from female teens age 16 to 19 to be $82, with $50 from earnings and the balance from their allowances. Other findings from the survey indicate that adolescent girls receive more than adolescent males in allowance from parents, as mothers understand the need for the female teen to have the income necessary to purchase clothing and cosmetics. Past research studies have attempted to measure the influence sources on teenagers when purchasing clothing by asking teens to rank different influence sources or by asking the teens who accompany them when shopping. The current research study develops a structural equation model that allows for the comparison of the three predominant influence sources identified in the consumer socialization literature, i.e., parental influence, peer influence, and promotional communications sought out by the teen. To test the model, 206 randomly selected female teenagers completed a mail questionnaire regarding the influences on clothing interest. The female teens were all members of a non-denominational youth group, age 13 to 19, living in the North Texas region. The model derived is only the third model in the marketing literature to examine the consumer socialization process, and the first in fifteen years. Examining the three main influence sources identified from consumer socialization literature, peer, parent, and media sources, the results differ from past models. The female teens perceive parental influence as a negative influence on clothing interest, contrary to past findings. Peers and media are perceived as positive influences on teen clothing interest as in past models. The results signify the need for marketing researchers to continue to investigate the dynamic nature of consumer socialization.

The purpose of this research was to establish the relationship between the stylistic changes the men's business suit and the masculine roles as represented in advertising imagery in the United States from 1950 through 1988. The men's business suit is a behavioral expectation for business and professional men often called "white collar workers." The suits are a social product given to change as collective tastes are manifest over time. The masculine role, a set of behavioral expectations dictated by consensus, is also a social product given to change over time. This research examined the relationship between changes in styling of men's business suits, and changes in masculine roles apparent in advertising.

A content analysis of men's business suits was executed to quantify the stylistic expressions, manifest in the structural components of the business suit. The classic appearance was represented by a composite illustration and was used as a device against which to compare the dominant style traits apparent in business suits for each decade researched. A survey of advertising and editorial spreads in The New York Times, Esquire and Vogue was combined with a survey of scholarly literature on gender and masculine roles to determine the pervasive masculine roles for each decade.
Master of Science

Deuteronomy 22:5 has sparked much interest and wonder for both readers and interpreters of the Bible, throughout Jewish history. Divided into three parts, the verse reads as follows: "A woman should not have keli gever (man's apparel, utensil or tool) on her; a man should not wear simlat isha (a woman's dress, robe, mantle, tunic); anyone who does these things is an abomination to the Lord your God." Each part of the verse has raised questions among exegetes, like how to define its key terms simlat isha and keli gever and what is the nature of the abomination. This thesis explores the responses to these questions through a presentation of the Jewish exegetical history of Deut. 22:5 from biblical times to the present. It demonstrates how the interpretations of this verse varied the application of the biblical law derived from it and thereby affected and altered dress codes, interactions, behhviours, and daily habits of Jewish men and women throughout history.

Dress and appearance constitute the visual realm in the dialectic of identity construction and are powerful communicators in this process, since dress and appearance are the symbolic means by which we locate ourselves and others through interaction within social contexts. Dress is used to differentiate and create boundaries for group belonging and exclusion, and in the uniform has been understood to have a capacity to suppress individuality and to identify the wearer with objectives beyond the self. Adolescence is a time of intense identity work and in New Zealand coincides with secondary schooling during which school uniforms are usually worn. Is freedom in dress necessary for development of personal identity? The effects of same-dressing on identity development in adolescence were investigated in the context of the history, practice, and meanings of school uniform in New Zealand secondary schools. This was investigated through a nationwide survey, analysis of selected school photographs and records, interviews with students, review of legal and bureaucratic structures supporting the practice, and review of the literature of school uniforms, and education and social history of New Zealand. A combination of qualitative and quantitative methods contributed to analysis of both dress practices in wider New Zealand contexts, and more personal use of dress in the formation of personal identity. Analysis of school uniforms as mechanisms of power, constituting both the student and the self, drew on symbolic interactionist theory and on Foucault�s later interpretations of power, while also linking material culture and social structures. New Zealand has a strong and continuing tradition of school uniform in secondary schools, yet this practice is characterised by change, variety, and differences, challenging the sameness which uniforms are supposed to embody. Meanings and functions of uniforms have changed considerably over the twentieth century, evolving through extreme and diverse expressions of the expectations of social, political, and education systems towards their young people, and mediated in turn by students themselves. While school uniforms both manifest and mediate the power of the school over the bodies of children, the power embodied in uniforms is not always and only a repressive power, but is also a generative, productive power. Students described uniforms as a form of shelter and protection, embodying belonging and participation in the school and a projected future of success and engagement in adult society and work. Uniforms also maintained a breadth of possibilities consistent with a fluid class system and egalitarian ideals of New Zealand society. While students believed self-expression essential for the formation of a self, they believed this need could be met through the use of minor differences in uniforms, while uniforms allowed them to retain the advantages of group belonging. Schools allowing some personal expression effectively strengthened the sense of belonging and participation, by maintaining the individual in positive relation to the group. The interaction that creates a self consists in symbols, involving meanings, appearances, and communication: differences and similarities from part of these complex interactions.

This thesis examined the relationships among immediacy of dress factors and affective learning factors as they pertain to relational communication. College students (N = 482) completed questionnaires indicating perceptions of selected nonverbal immediacy behaviors associated with their teacher's attire. The research predicted that there would be relationships between and among power and affinity of dress, dress immediacy and nonverbal immediacy. Further predictions were made concerning the associations among these variables, affective learning outcomes, and other teacher criteria. Analysis indicated that power of dress, affinity of dress and dress immediacy were viable nonverbal immediacy concepts which related to affective learning outcomes. Research findings indicated that certain instructor variables may also influence these relationships.

Many companies today are using some form of uniforms for employees. This research is an exploration of the role of uniforms in contributing to the embedding and transmitting of organizational culture. Culture is the experiences and common learning of the organization that results in shared values and beliefs. According to Schein (1985: 14) culture has three levels, namely: artifacts, values, and basic underlying assumptions. The first level of the culture consists of the physical constructs of the organization, and therefore includes the uniforms, which is the focus of this study. Schein (1985: 223) further proposes that culture can be embedded and transmitted through various mechanisms. The research was conducted in the constructivist paradigm, at a tertiary institution of higher learning in Eastern Cape, South Africa. To ensure triangulation, three sources of data were used, namely: documentation; observation; and both individual and focus group interviews. The researcher argues that uniforms played a role in the embedding of the sample organization’s three levels of culture, which were expressed in terms of Hofstede’s (1991: 07) culture dimensions. Firstly, the use of the different uniforms by different groups, as well as the ranking indicated by the uniforms, played a role in embedding the high power distance culture. Secondly, the symbolism of security portrayed by the uniform played a role in embedding the high uncertainty avoidance culture. Thirdly, it was found that the uniform created unity amongst groups, resulting in greater expression of collectivism. Fourthly, the use of sensible and practical uniforms plays a role in embedding the feminine culture where competitiveness is avoided and relationships are nurtured. Lastly, the uniform plays a possible role in transforming the culture from short-term to a long-term orientation that focuses on the future.

This study investigated significant influences including Hispanicness, traditionalism and demographic characteristics on Hispanic women's purchase behavior when selecting work and social activity apparel. A sample of 114 Hispanic women from a Hispanic professional organization or businesses in the Dallas and El Paso, Texas areas. Surveys were collected by mail or administered to subjects. Analyses included frequencies, percentages, t-tests, and Pearson's product-moment correlations. For both situations, mean scores indicated the most influential information sources were: clothing displays, friends, and female family members, while the most used acquisition sources were: department and specialty stores. In both situations, these women had very feminine appearance attributes and very feminine and fashionable clothing style. Hispanicness, traditionalism, and demographic characteristics made some difference when selecting work and social activity apparel.

The purpose of this research was to examine how the intervening variable of comparative well-being (which is how persons view their age, financial resources, and health compared to others of their own age) will enhance the significance of the relationship between selected demographic and psychographic variables and perceived risk. Specifically, the research investigated the structural relationship between comparative well-being in four different statistical models: (1) as an independent predictor of perceived risk; (2) as an intensifier of the psychographic and demographic predictors of perceived risk; (3) as a covariate of perceived risk; and (4) finally, as a jointly dependent variable with perceived risk. This approach was pursued in an effort to enhance the traditional marketing use of demographic and psychographic variables in predictingconsumer buying behavior. The data for this study were gathered as part of a national consumer-panel mail survey utilizing approximately 3,000 households. The research instrument was a self-administered questionnaire which collected demographic, psychographic, and perceived risk information from purchasers of apparel wear. Data analysis included descriptive statistics, Pearson product moment correlation analysis, factor analysis, analysis of variance (ANOVA), and multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA). The findings have identified the importance of how consumers position themselves in society, based on their locus of external involvement (community and social activity) and how satisfactory their position is in their social structure as measured by comparative well-being (perceived age, income, and health). The research results challenge the value of using only age and income as predictor variables for perceived risk, in that no significant relationships were found between age, income, and perceived risk. However, comparative well-being was found to intensify these relationships, in addition to functioning as an independent variable and a covariate in the perceived risk relationship. Also, it was found that respondents with higher degrees of comparative well-being perceived less risk, whereas, more socially active respondents were high-risk perceivers.

This study was undertaken to investigate the influence of a military counselor s attire on potential clients expressed perceptions of and preferences for a counselor. Ninety volunteer participants were selected from a large southwestern Air Force base. Participants ranged in age from 18 to 46 years, with 68 male and 22 female volunteers. Rank was divided into 69 enlisted personnel (56 males and 13 females) and 21 officers (12 males and 9 females). Three videotapes were made depicting a counselor in three attire conditions: civilian; military officer; and military enlisted. A pilot study was completed which validated the research assumption that the videotapes differed only in the counselor's attire conditions. Participants were randomly assigned to three treatment groups. After each group was shown a videotape portraying the counselor in one of the three attire conditions, the participants were administered the Counselor Rating Form and the Referral Questionaire. The Counselor Rating Form is composed of three scales which assess perceptions of a counselors' trustworthiness, attractiveness, and expertness. The Referral Questionaire assesses subjects preferences to see a specific counselor in the event counseling is desired. Two main hypotheses, each having three subhypotheses, were developed for the study. The first hypothesis compared participants reactions to a counselor in civilian and military attire conditions. The second hypothesis compared participants' reactions to a counselor in two military attire conditions representing officer and enlisted ranks. Data was analyzed by analysis of variance procedures, with Scheffe' methods used, when appropriate, for multiple comparisons of mean scores.

Thesis (MA)--Stellenbosch University, 2002.
ENGLISH ABSTRACT: As the wave of globalisation sweeps across the countries of the world, the economies of these countries are increasingly opening. The industrial and trade strategy approach is shifting to greater openness due to the pressures of international competitiveness. This means that domestic economic activity alone cannot sustain the national economy. One of the features of this openness is trade liberalisation. Trade between various countries is becoming more important as a way of earning foreign currency to address balance of payment problems and as well as to boost the domestic economy. This has great potential, in the long run, to generate employment opportunities. Immediately after South Africa ushered in a democratic dispensation in 1994 it had to contend with global pressure to liberalise its trade and put in place economic fundamentals that synchronize with the global economic order. The political economy of global trade structure is characterized by bargaining power inequalities amongst the developed countries (North) and the developing countries (South). Trade relations between the developed and developing countries has ~ element of power-play that advantage developed countries and the terms of trade are still skewed in favour of developed countries due to the power that developed countries wield in the global economic system. This study uses the structuralist development theoretical perspective (dependency theory) and the combination of qualitative and quantitative paradigms in understanding the trade relations between the developed countries. The study, through this theoretical paradigm, seeks to examine the degree of success or failure of the Uruguay Round of trade negotiations in particular with regard to tariff reduction commitments, and opportunities or constraints created thereof. A case study oftextile and clothing industry will be used, and this will highlight some of the negative implications of the Uruguay Round commitments.
AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Namate die globaliseringsgolf oor die lande van die wereld spoel, word die ekonomiee van die lande meer toeganklik vir ander state. Die industriele en handelsstrategie benadering het, as gevolg van intemasionale mededinging, 'n klemverskuiwing na meer openheid meegebring. Dit het tot gevolg dat huishoudelike ekonomiese aktiwiteit nie alleen 'n ekonomie kan onderhou nie. Een van die kenmerke van hierdie openheid is die liberalisering van handel. Handel tussen state word toenemend belangrik vir die verdien van buitelandse valuta om betalingsbalans probleme aan te spreek, asook om plaaslike ekonomiee te stimuleer. Oor die lang termyn hou dit groot potensiaal in om werksgeleenthede te skep. Onmiddelik na demokratisering in 1994 was Suid-Afrika geforseer om sy handel te liberaliseer en sy ekonomiese grondslag te sinchroniseer met die globale ekonomiese orde, Die struktuur van die politieke ekonomie van intemasionale handel word gekenmerk deur ongelykhede tussen die ontwikkelde Noorde en die ontwikkelende lande van die Suide. Handelsbetrekkinge tussen ontwikkelde- en ontwikkelende lande bevat 'n element van magspel waarin eersgenoemde bevoordeel word. Hierdie studie maak gebruik van die strukturalistiese ontwikkelingsperspektief en 'n kombinasie van kwalitatiewe en kwantitatiewe paradigmas, ten einde 'n beter begrip te verkry van handel tussen ontwikkelde lande. Deur middel van die teoretiese paradigma, probeer die studie om die werkbaarheid van die Uruguay Ronde, spesifiek · met betrekking tot tarief verlagings en die geleenthede of beperkings wat daardeur geskep word, aan te toon. 'n Gevallestudie van die tekstiel en klerebedryf sal gebruik word om die negatiewe implikasies van die Uruguay Ronde te belig.

To study what stereotypes exist regarding psychologists by the general public and determine whether and how this affects hiring preferences, 114 undergraduate business and non-business students at a large southwestern university were asked to participate. The Gough Adjective Check List was administered to determine what stereotypes are held by persons regarding psychologists. A study of visual perception/stereotype and hiring preference as a function of attire was also conducted. Three dress styles were used as stimuli. It was hypothesized that the groups would differ in their stereotypes of psychologists both cognitively and visually. There were no significant differences between the groups as a function of college major. However, a main effect for dress style was found. Possible explanations of findings are discussed.

This study explores the relationship between gender and fashion, by investigating the life experiences of a small group of teenage girls from an area south of Brisbane. Working from feminist perspectives, this study explores the way the girls, in the study, make sense of media representations of fashion and use this in their construction of their gendered self The representation of the fashion model construct and its role in this process is examined. Traditionally, approaches to the discussion of fashion have ranged from historical to socialist feminist, but few have focussed on the impact of fashion on teenage girls. This study is based on the assumption that there is a relationship between fashion and the social construction of the body. Connell's (1987) theories about the gender structures, oflabour, power, and cathexis, have been employed to provide a framework for the study. Femininity, in this study, is understood as not fixed, but rather created by biological and social factors which may be accepted and/or opposed at any moment on a life continuum. How teenage girls use fashion images to construct their identity is investigated. How they write their bodies, and for what purposes, is explored. This study argues that, involved in this process, is a potential struggle as these females utilise this discourse for both power and pleasure. Adopting a methodological approach similar to Gilbert and Taylor (1991), this study asks a small group of teenage girls to discuss their experiences in relation to fashion. The research is conducted in the form of a reading of a limited sample of newspaper and magazine articles about fashion, small group interviews, and a small questionnaire. It then investigates how these experiences are used by the girls in their formation of a gendered identity. The study concludes that media images of fashion play a role in designing and fabricating the gendered identity of the girls in the study, but they often experience difficulty relating to the images presented. The restrictions in their lives that preclude them from having the power to be like models have led to a resistance to many aspects of fashion, rather than reading of fashion as an unpleasant experience.

Cette recherche propose une histoire immatérielle du vêtement en Occident et plus particulièrement autour des XIIIe et XIVe siècles. Que signifie s’habiller dans les sociétés occidentales où le christianisme apparaît, à l’origine, puis dans son principe, comme une contre-culture inversant le système de valeurs de la sociabilité matérielle historique.

Le développement s’attache au changement radical d’attitudes à l’égard du vêtement dans les communautés chrétiennes du Bas-Empire romain du IIe au IVe siècle ;à l’institutionnalisation des apparences chrétiennes au haut Moyen Age ;à la métaphore du vêtement comme grande figure explicative des mythes chrétiens ;au statut anthropologique du vêtement dans la pensée et les pratiques médiévales ;à l’histoire de la valeur de l’objet technique et corporel ;aux modèles de consommation des biens de luxe ;au gouvernement politique par les apparences à la fin du Moyen Âge ;aux causes de la transformation des formes du vêtement jusqu’à la naissance du phénomène de mode. Toutes les sources (théologie, littérature populaire, comptabilité, archives judiciaires, images) sont convoquées, parfois de manière quantitative. Lorsque c’est possible le raisonnement procède par inversion :mettre en lumière des situations ponctuelles par l’arrière-plan normatif ou affectif, comprendre les phénomènes de longue durée ou les contradictions internes à une société au moyen de cas précis (une controverse, par exemple). Une expérience de description « intégrée » du récit historique est donc tentée, séparant le moins possible les « univers » (le social, l’économique, le symbolique, l’esthétique…) qui forment d’un seul tenant une culture. Si l’on souhaite faire une histoire du vêtement médiéval, il n’est pas dit que les moments, les pratiques ou les auteurs interrogés appartiennent à ce que l’on appelle couramment le Moyen Âge.

Doctorat en Histoire, art et archéologie
info:eu-repo/semantics/nonPublished

A dissertation submitted to the Faculty of Humanities, University of Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Masters of Arts in Fine Art by Dissertation. Johannesburg 2016
Colour has always played an important role in South Africa; from the beginning of colonialism when “Africans” were converted to Christianity and baptised in white robes, to the bright colourful church garments that flood Soweto on Sundays. In the nineteenth century “Africans” began to reimagine their faith and spiritually. Seeking independence and a sense of identity, they began to fuse Western Christian ideologies with “African” spiritual beliefs and attire, which led to the origin of African Independent Churches (AIC). I aim to demonstrate how colour was not only used as a break away from colonial influences, but was also used to portray African spiritual beliefs and to create a distinctive “African” religious identity. This paper aims to study colour usage and it’s meaning within the South African context in order to show how colour use within Apostolic and Zionist movements relates to traditional African spirituality. The paper aims to show how colours used within both movements are symbolic and are thus used as spiritual codes. The paper will look at contemporary colours in order to show how Apostolic and Zionist movements continue to use colour to shape their spiritual identity.

The literature survey reports that persons electing cosmetic plastic surgery for aesthetic or medical reasons, or those persons not electing any form of surgery, often experience physical, psychological and socio-cultural problems. The complexity among the associated variables, body images, identity status, fashionable clothing behaviour and social self-consciousness were investigated comparatively, using a biopsychosocial approach. The samples consisted of cosmetic surgery patients (n=25), Black and White female fashion participants (n=60) and breast oncology case studies (n=3). The research methods included descriptive and inferential statistics. A maximum of six questionnaires was administered per individual. The results indicated that a positive body image perception was related to identity integrity, fashionable dressing and a sense of social acceptance. Insight into the importance placed on the body as a means of self-expression can contribute to successful cosmetic and breast oncology surgery and also promote intercultural harmony, by reducing body-based prejudice.
Psychology
M.A. (Psychology)

This study assessed the differences between teachers'opinions and students' responses regarding the influence of clothing on adolescents' decisions to participate in social activities. Survey methodology was used with the final samples consisting of 336 students and 140 teachers who were drawn from six high schools located in economically depressed and non-depressed areas of the state of Oregon. All of the predominantly female students were enrolled in home economics classes. Their ages ranged from thirteen to twenty years with the mode being 16 years. The teachers taught a variety of subjects that spanned from science and math to liberal arts. The majority of the teachers had been working in their profession for eleven or more years. On the student and teacher questionnaires the question was asked why students did not participate in social events or school extracurricular activities. The following response choices were listed on both questionnaires: a) My parents will not let me go; b) I do not have the "right" clothes to wear; c) I don't have enough money; d) I really do not have any interest in going. On the teachers' questionnaire two additional reasons were listed: e) I do not have transportation; f) It conflicts with my work. A 7-point Likert type scale was used. The statistical treatment of data included descriptive statistics, t-test calculations and qualitative analysis. It was hypothesized that feelings of perceived clothing deprivation (not having "the right clothes to wear") would be the most important reason that students do not attend a social event. This hypothesis was based on previous literature that suggested clothing is very important during the adolescent stage of development. Contrary to this hypothesis, the students' mean scores revealed that not having the "right clothes" was the least important reason for not attending of the four reasons listed. As hypothesized, teachers rated not having "the right clothes to wear" as the least important factor for students deciding not to attend a social event. This hypothesis was exploratory in nature. One of the most important findings of this study was that teachers and students responded in the same pattern. This was not what was expected, but it was conceptually interesting to know they think alike rather than differently.
Graduation date: 1991

The primary purpose of this research was to examine the theory of divestment, or the act of discarding clothes that no longer fit the current body, by investigating the relationships between divestment practices and psychological factors (body image and self-esteem). The secondary purpose was to examine divestment practices among different demographic groups (age and gender). A combination of previously created measures was used to measure divestment practices (Bye & McKinney, 2007), self-esteem (Rosenberg, 1965), and body image (Cash & Pruzinsky, 1990). Demographic characteristics were determined using basic questions regarding those traits. The results of the study indicated that the strongest predictors of divestment were being younger (β=.129, p=.004), subjective weight (β=.171, p=.002), and body areas satisfaction (β=-173., p=.015). Gender (β=.081, p=.062), though not significant in the current model, was approaching significance, with females being more predictive of divestment than males.
Department of Family and Consumer Sciences

According to Blackwell, Miniard, and Engel (2001), "[c]ulture has a profound effect on why and how people buy and consume products and services" (p. 320). In the present study, Hofstede's classifications of national culture are used as a framework to examine the relationships among long-term orientation national culture (Taiwan and United States), type of clothing (formal and casual clothing), and gender (female and male) on consumers' clothing values (aesthetic, economic, political, religious, social, and theoretic clothing values). The data collection method was a direct handout questionnaire in classes at Oregon State University in the United States and at National Pingtung University of Science and Technology in Taiwan. A seven-point scale was used to measure the mean scores of six clothing values. The questionnaire also measured the validity of Hofstede's framework and the respondent's demographic characteristics. The questionnaire was first developed in English, translated into Chinese, and then translated back into English. Overall, 487 of the questionnaires from the United States and 903 from Taiwan (the total number was 1390) were eligible for analysis in this study. Data from the questionnaires were analyzed using a multivariate analysis of variance and paired-sample analysis t-test. The results revealed that six consumers' clothing values were affected by national culture and the type of clothing and partially influenced by gender. As hypothesized, the mean scores of consumers' economic and religious clothing values were significantly higher in high long-term orientation (Taiwan) than in low long-term orientation (United States), whereas the mean scores of aesthetic clothing value was significantly lower in high long-term orientation (Taiwan) than in low long-term orientation (United States). Significant differences were found for gender on consumers' aesthetic, political, social, and theoretic clothing values. As hypothesized, female consumers scored significantly higher on aesthetic and social clothing values than did male consumers. Based on the results from this study, the similarities and differences among consumers' clothing values in different national cultures, between genders, and type of clothing can be important basic information for international marketers when planning and implementing marketing plans across countries.
Graduation date: 2004

Indonesian Muslim women who choose to wear the strictest type of women's dress, cadar (full face-veil), have become increasingly visible in Indonesia. This practice is often misunderstood in both popular media and scholarly works on Indonesian Islam: cadari (the wearers) are frequently stereotyped as terrorists or militants belonging to violent groups. The trend of face-veiling is viewed by some scholars as an aspect of the Arabisation of Indonesia. It is also frequently assumed that the cadar symbolises the oppression of Muslim women. Throughout Indonesian history it has often been regarded as a symbol of religious fanaticism. This thesis takes an ethnographic approach to investigate two different categories of women who wear the cadar belonging to two contrasting Islamic revivalist movements-Salafi groups on the one hand and Tablighi Jama'at on the other. The first group, who I term 'passionate cadari, makes a strong commitment to changing their lives to embody the norms of their religious groups. The second group I study consists of women attending an Islamic residential school where the cadar has been standardised. The thesis is based on 12 months of fieldwork in three large cities in Indonesia (Jakarta, Yogyakarta, and Makassar) from 2007 to 2008, with a return visit for five months in 2009. This study draws on the literature on women's agency in Muslim societies and sociological literature on embodiment and subjectivity to provide an interpretive analysis of women's experiences and understandings of their chosen lifestyle. This is the first study on face-veiled women in Indonesia and also the first thorough study on face-veiled women within two Islamic revivalist movements, Tablighi Jama'at and Salafi factions. Whereas much has been written about head-covering in Indonesia (especially the jilbab), little research has been done on the cadari. Studies on the Tablighi Jama'at and Salafi movements in Indonesia have neglected the face-veiled women, who are the main female constituents of such groups. Focusing on the adoption of cadar and ways of being true Muslim women, this study demonstrates how religion shapes the formation of religious subjects, and how the agency of such women is expressed through discipline and docility. Their life experiences and the process of negotiating and renegotiating the wearing of their attire, the cadar, reveals their long struggle to construct their distinctive religious lifestyle and their capacity for agency. Previous scholarly accounts of women in extreme Islamic milieus obscure their capacity for self-creation, and gloss over the complex dynamics of their Iives-especially their agency in relation to their aspiration to embody the concept of being true Muslimah (Muslim women), and their zeal to be active agents in their communities. These women's efforts to embody their religion need to be understood with reference to the religious ideology that governs their life. Cadari are exercising compliant agency in creating themselves as a particular kind of Islamic subject through the performance of obedience towards authority figures, and embracing the constraints their choice entails.

Dress plays an important role in Christian worship. The aim of this study is to describe the importance of dress in the South African Christian context. particularly within the Black Christian society. Two main ideas are covered: firstly. the emphasis on the use of unifonn as a factor influencing worship attendance and secondly, how a uniform affects the quality of worship. Personal investigations into various church groups in the Eastern Cape, particularly the St Anna Sodality, have indicated that specific uniforms are an essential sign of belonging to a particular church. Dress or uniforms also serve as a reminder of people's commitment to their faith. For some groups, a uniform develops a sense of identity, security and fellowship which may have been lost through past political policies. Most importantly the relationship between worship and dress can bring a transformative assertion of the self before God and fellow human beings
Christian Spirituality, Church History and Missiology
M. Th. (Missiology)

According to Engel, Blackwell, and Miniard (1993), evaluative criteria is defined as "the standards and specifications used by consumers to compare different products and brands" (p.51). Many studies have investigated factors that might influence the importance of clothing evaluative criteria used by consumers in the decision making process. However, few studies have been directed to examine the relationship between consumers' shopping motivations and their use of clothing evaluative criteria. The purpose of this study was to examine the influence of consumers' shopping orientations on the importance placed on the clothing evaluative criteria. Hedonic and utilitarian shopper dichotomy was applied in this study. Self-administered questionnaires which included four sections of questions were used for data collection. The four sections, with 7-point Likert scales, asked about respondents' clothing evaluative criteria used in general and specific purchase context, shopping values, and demographic information. The data were collected at Oregon State University in summer 2005. A convenience sample of 452 students from nine departments was obtained. The frequency and descriptive statistics, cross tabulation and chi-square statistics, Principal Components Factor Analysis with Varimax Rotation, and Pearson Correlation were used to analyze the data. Respondents were classified into hedonic shoppers, utilitarian shoppers, or neutral shoppers, who were dropped in comparison analysis. Results indicated that hedonic shoppers were more likely to be female and younger than were the utilitarian shoppers. Hedonic shoppers were found to be more engaged in un-planned clothing purchases, go clothing shopping more frequently, and spend more money on clothing each month then utilitarian shoppers. Moreover, hedonic shoppers more often went clothing shopping in department stores, closed malls and specialty stores than did the utilitarian shoppers. Principal Components Factor Analysis was conducted to classified clothing evaluative criteria used in both general and specific purchase situations, and new variables were generated for Pearson Correlation Analysis. Results of Pearson Correlation analysis were used to test the hypotheses. Results showed that hedonic shopping value was positively and significantly related to "Aesthetics" and "Symbolic" dimensions of clothing, which supported the first hypothesis. However, utilitarian shopping value was not found to have positive and stronger relationship with "Performance" and "Economic" dimensions of clothing than hedonic shopping value, thus, the second hypothesis was not supported. Apparel manufacturers, retailers, and marketers can draw implications from the study result to develop more effective marketing communication mix. Also, consumer behavior researchers can further investigate hedonic shopping behavior based on the research findings.
Graduation date: 2006

M. Tech. Business Administration
The aim of this study was to determine the most important factors that influence the adoption of fashion clothing amongst the Generation-Y consumers living in Ga-Rankuwa and how that influences broader societal trends in the retail market. The purpose of this study is to assist marketers and retailers to sustain their businesses by examining the relationship between fashion involvement, fashion innovativeness, fashion opinion leadership and fashion adoption, based on this group’s perception.

Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the Degree of Master in Technology: Marketing, Durban University of Technology, 2011.
Satisfying consumers’ needs and wants has always been a primary goal of marketing. These are fulfilled when consumers make the right choices of products to purchase. The driving force behind such purchasing decisions is generally regarded as motivation and this varies between consumers, with each one having their own reasons for their respective choices. For the convenience of consumers, women’s clothing is displayed in stores according to the body sizes of the garments, as reflected on each of their labels. However, this practice can be confusing to consumers because manufacturers use differing sizing systems. The resultant sizing and fit problems in women’s clothing have been documented in many studies around the world. The aim of this study is to explore the emotional effects of sizing and fit on purchasing behaviour in women’s clothing. It looks at current literature regarding emotions in purchasing, consumer decision making and sizing and fit and focuses on sizing and fit problems encountered when women try on clothing in a store. Their emotions whilst going through this process are identified and the subsequent effects of these emotions on their purchasing behaviour are examined. The study firstly reveals that emotions are felt, in varying degrees, by women consumers arising from sizing and fit problems when trying on clothing in stores. The results show that positive emotions are not felt strongly. Secondly, the study identifies the influences which emotions have on purchasing behaviour. The results indicate that positive emotions have a significant influence on purchasing, whilst negative emotions have a lesser effect. Thirdly, the study reveals that in the relationship between satisfaction and the demographic profile, age played a significant role in the scoring of positive emotions when respondents experience inconsistency of sizes between stores.

Dissertation submitted in compliance with the requirements for the degree of Master's of Technology: Fashion, Durban Institute of Technology, 2003.
This study addresses the relationship between the clothing behaviour and identity of African South African women in the corporate world, with reference to black identity and Western style of clothes. Central to these two issues the study tried to focus on the factors which may have an influence on the clothing behaviour of African South African women. Clothing as communication and factors which influence people's clothing behaviour were also covered to find out why people wear the clothes they wear. The sample consisted of African South African women (n =100) in Gauteng and KwaZulu-Natal. Research was conducted by means of a structured questionnaire. The qualitative method provided a systematic investigation of the topic. The research methods included descriptive and inferential Statistics. Three hypotheses were formulated for the investigation. Each of the clothing variables was examined relative to the hypothesized relationship. There were fifty-one clothing variables employed in the analyses. The results exhibited a need for ethnically influenced clothes for African South Africans. The findings indicate that there was symbolic meaning attached to ethnically influenced clothing and beads, and that the symbolism attached to clothing items can influence a person's clothing behaviour. Recommendations were noted and followed by the Conclusion.
M

The issue of a Muslim woman‟s dress code has been debated for centuries. This is of great importance as it is widely used as a criterion to measure the extent of a woman‟s piety or devotion to Allah. A study of the religious texts on the issue is essential. Therefore, Qur‟anic text, Prophetic Traditions and Qur‟anic exegesis of both classical and modern scholars would have been used in determining the correct dress code for Muslim women. While all research indicates that women dress conservatively, in order not to attract the attention of the opposite sex. The extent to which a woman must be covered has not been agreed upon. Even if what has to be covered is established by scholars, the manner in which this is to be done and the type of colours and fabric to be used needs further clarification. The issue of the female dress code needs to be presented from a female perspective.
Religious Studies and Arabic
M.A. (Islamic Studies)

Much of the effort that goes into a purchasing decision occurs at the stage where a choice has to be made from the available alternative clothing products (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009:392). In this phase of the decision making process, consumers’ perceptions of the clothing item they anticipate to purchase includes evaluation of the clothing and the application of specific evaluative criteria in order to assess the suitability of the clothing item (Saricam, Kalaoglu, Ozdygu & Urun, & 2012:2). Evaluative criteria are the specifications or standards that consumers use when comparing and assessing alternatives (Forney, Park & Brandon, 2005:158). Because consumer needs vary not only by the product they want to purchase but also in terms of information (Forney et al., 2005:158), identifying the evaluative criteria that consumers use in the clothing purchasing decision-making process may provide an insight into preferences relative to specific products, such as clothing. While several studies have shown that the purchasing decision can be influenced by individual differences as well as environmental influences, it is no doubt that the investigation of each of these variables provides important clues to understanding consumer purchase decision broadly, but are limited in some parts in their explanations when it comes to clothing purchasing decision. Literature has highlighted the significance of body shape on clothing preferences because of the inherent relationship between the clothing product and the body. The difference in body shape often determines how clothing will drape on a figure, how comfortable the garment feels and ultimately how the clothing product will be evaluated by the consumer. Moreover, personal values, which are defined as the desired end-states have been shown to be one of the most powerful explanations of, and influence on the way consumers are likely to behave in a specific situation, such as the purchasing of new clothing product, the process that includes evaluation, choosing among the alternatives and finally the purchasing decision (Vincent 2014:119; Kim et al. 2002:481; Laverie, Klein & Klein, 1993:2). Additionally, while in the process of evaluating various clothing attributes for the suitability of the clothing product in terms of body shape and personal values, female consumers may experience either positive or negative emotions (Zeelenberg et al., 2008:18), depending on how the clothing is assessed. Most theories of emotional influences on decision making take the valence-based approach (Lerner & Keltener, 2000:473), focusing on the effects of positive versus negative emotional states. However, Lerner and Keltener (2000:473), have suggested that emotion specific approach, in particular the Appraisal-Tendency Framework (ATF) model is more effective to understand and predict the influence of specific emotions on decision making and behaviour. Consumers’ choice of the clothes based on the evaluative criteria during the decision making process is regarded as a form of consumer input to the clothing manufacturing and design (May-Plumee & Little, 2006:62). Since these underlying factors are regarded as important for understanding the rationale behind consumer clothing purchasing decision and behaviour, a thorough investigation of such factors on how they impact clothing evaluative criteria is greatly necessary. This may help and guide the clothing manufacturers and retailer on how to design and produce clothing products that are most relevant for the needs and preferences of South African female consumers. The study, therefore, aimed to determine the influence of body shape and personal values on women’s preferences for and use of intrinsic evaluative criteria (styling/design, colour/pattern, appearance, appropriateness/acceptance, fit/sizing, comfort and fibre content/material) in the purchasing of casual blouse/top, trouser/skirt and dress. Information on the relevant importance of various clothing product attributes in the consumers’ mind may provide clothing manufacturers and designers with the basis for effective new clothing product development and marketing strategies. Furthermore, considering that emotions are involved in clothing purchasing decision, the study also focused on understanding the influence of emotions on clothing purchasing decision and subsequent behaviour. This study reflected the postpositive philosophical worldview which is typically associated with quantitative approach. In this case, the study assumed quantitative research design and methods and is regarded as exploratory in nature. Using purposeful, convenient and snowball techniques, the sample was solicited in Gauteng, Johannesburg, South Africa. A total of 316 women aged between 18 and 66 plus years old took part in the study. A survey using a group administered questionnaire was used to collect primary data from the respondents. The group administered questionnaire included demographic information of the participants, self-reported perceived body shape measure, personal values measure, evaluative measure and emotions measure. Descriptive statistics were used to analyze demographic information, as well as on overall data before inferential statistics were performed. Inferential statistics such as the z-test was applied to establish the significant evaluative criteria and to test the proportions of the selected emotions. Chi-Square test of independence was used to determine the association between body shape evaluative criteria investigated, while nonlinear canonical correlation analysis (OVERALS) was performed to establish the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria and lastly, discriminant analysis was used determine purchasing behaviour. The analysis established that fit/sizing and comfort are the most important evaluative criteria that women consider in the purchasing of casual clothing categories studied. Respondents, also agreed that styling/design was the determinant evaluative criteria when purchasing a casual dress, while fit/sizing was the determinant evaluative criteria in the purchasing of a casual blouse/top and trouser/skirt. The results further showed that respondents in this study who perceive themselves to be diamond shaped, think colour/pattern is very important particularly when purchasing a casual blouse/top. However, when purchasing a trouser/skirt, the results reflected that the oval body shaped respondents think styling/design is very important, while respondents who perceive themselves to be rectangular body shaped, consider comfort when purchasing a casual dress. With regards to the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria, the study found that when purchasing a casual blouse, respondents consider the appearance for the achievement of warm relationship with others, excitement and confidence. The results also indicated that through fit/size of a blouse/top, female consumers strongly aspired for self-respect. The results further showed that through the styling/design of a blouse/top, female consumers in this study want to achieve self-fulfillment, while a sense of accomplishment is influenced by the comfort of a casual blouse/top. On the other hand it was also revealed that appropriateness/acceptability of a casual blouse/top seemed to influence fun and enjoyment as well as sense of belonging. In the purchasing of a casual trouser/skirt, the results clearly showed that in order to achieve a warm relationship with others, female consumers strongly considered the fibre content/material and colour/pattern of trouser/skirt. The results also suggested that consumer considered the appearance of a trouser/skirt for the achievement of sense of belonging and self-fulfillment, while the styling/design of a trouser/skirt was somewhat considered for attainment of excitement. Through the fit/sizing of a casual trouser/skirt, it was shown that female consumers strongly aspired to achieve self-respect, confidence as well as fun and enjoyment. The results further highlighted that respondents considered appropriateness/acceptability of a casual trouser to somewhat influence being well-respected, while comfort of a casual trouser somewhat influenced a sense of accomplishment. In the purchasing of a casual dress, the results indicated that in order to achieve excitement and a warm relationship with others, female consumers in this study considered the appearance. The results further suggested that through the appearance of dress respondents somewhat also aspired for a sense of belonging. On the other hand, the results clearly revealed that respondents will consider fibre content/material, styling/design, fit/sizing and colour of casual dress in order to achieve self-respect, self-fulfillment, confidence, being well-respected and a sense of accomplishment. Lastly the results demonstrated that the best behaviour that drives the emotion “disgust” is “I walk away”. On the other had the best behaviour that drives the emotion “sadness” is “I spend more time shopping around”. The results were fully consistent and gave support to the emotions specific hypothesis (ATF) which postulates that different emotions of the same valence for instance, “disgust” and “sad”, both being negative, can exert opposing influences on decision making and behavior. However, concerning the positive specific emotions, it emerged that there were no behaviour differences between the emotions “happiness” and “contentment”, probably, suggesting unpredictable behaviour. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing designers and retailers should have a knowledge of the attributes that are preferred by female consumers of various body shape. It is also recommended that clothing manufacturers and retailers should endeavor to understand the value systems of their target. This study has contributed to the body of knowledge of understanding the role that body shape, personal values and emotions play in the clothing purchasing decision and behaviour.
Life and Consumer Sciences
Ph. D. (Consumer Science)