Relevant bibliographies by topics / Archaeological textile studies

Academic literature on the topic 'Archaeological textile studies'

Author: Grafiati
Published: 10 December 2022
Last updated: 28 January 2023

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Journal articles on the topic "Archaeological textile studies"

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Spantidaki, Stella, and Christina Margariti. "Archaeological textiles excavated in Greece." Archaeological Reports 63 (November 2017): 49–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0570608418000054.

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This paper offers an account of the archaeological textiles excavated in Greece, consideration of the challenges one has to deal with when studying such materials and a discussion of ways to overcome them. A complete list of archaeological textiles excavated in Greece is not within the scope of this paper, since such comprehensive studies have been published previously (Spantidaki and Moulhérat 2012; Moulhérat and Spantidaki 2016) and, of course, the corpus of such textiles is continuously expanding.The study of textiles is an emerging and fast-growing field of Greek archaeology (Gleba 2011). The number of archaeologists and conservators working with and studying archaeological textiles is steadily increasing, thus raising the general awareness of textiles and expanding the corpus of known ancient fabrics. In recent years, several research projects have investigated ancient Greek textiles, such as those conducted by the Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen (for example Textile Economies in the Mediterranean Area), several funded by Marie Skłodowska Curie Action grants and some by European Research Council grants (for example Production and Consumption: Textile Economy and Urbanisation in Mediterranean Europe 1000–500 BCE hosted by Cambridge University).
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Enegren, Hedvig Landenius. "Loom weights in Archaic South Italy and Sicily: Fice case studies." Opuscula. Annual of the Swedish Institutes at Athens and Rome 8 (November 2015): 123–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.30549/opathrom-08-06.

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Textiles are perishables in the archaeological record unless specific environmental conditions are met. Fortunately, the textile tools used in their manufacture can provide a wealth of information and via experimental archaeology make visible to an extent what has been lost. The article presents and discusses the results obtained in a research project focused on textile tool technologies and identities in the context of settler and indigenous peoples, at select archaeological sites in South Italy and Sicily in the Archaic and Early Classical periods, with an emphasis on loom weights. Despite a common functional tool technology, the examined loom weights reveal an intriguing inter-site specificity, which, it is argued, is the result of hybrid expressions embedded in local traditions. Experimental archaeology testing is applied in the interpretation of the functional qualities of this common artefact.
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McCafferty, Geoffrey G., and William R. Fowler. "INTRODUCTION." Ancient Mesoamerica 19, no. 1 (2008): 83–85. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s095653610800031x.

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If we accept Good's (2001:211) definition of a textile as a “web of interlaced threads produced on a loom,” we may say that textiles have a long and storied existence in ancient Mesoamerica. In this Special Section we present four new studies on Mesoamerican textile production. All four papers are based primarily on archaeological data and analyses, but, because of the nature of the material, they cross disciplinary boundaries. At the risk of indulging in a rather hackneyed metaphor, we might envision the archaeological elements of each study as the warp embellished with a weft of ethnohistoric, ethnographic, art historical, iconographic, and epigraphic data and interpretations. In this Introduction we range across the boundaries touching first on the archaeological evidence for the antiquity of weaving and textiles in Mesoamerica, the nature of textiles as a commodity, and the theoretical foundations from political economy that influenced anthropology in the 1980s and generated a seminal article on cotton in the Aztec economy. Then we reference recent research dealing with cloth as costume that signifies ethnic and gender identity, and ideological associations with female deities. Finally, we return to the archaeology and the difficulties of preservation of textiles in Mesoamerica, setting the stage for comments on individual papers since they depend on the indirect evidence of spindle whorls and weaving implements.
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Halperin, Christina T. "CLASSIC MAYA TEXTILE PRODUCTION: INSIGHTS FROM MOTUL DE SAN JOSÉ, PETEN, GUATEMALA." Ancient Mesoamerica 19, no. 1 (2008): 111–25. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0956536108000230.

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AbstractTextiles in ancient Mesoamerica served as a critical economic resource and symbolic display of status, wealth, and social affiliation. The economic significance of textiles can be explored, in part, by the archaeological identification and distribution of production tools: spinning and weaving implements. In the Maya area, however, few studies have examined the organization of textile production, and systematic documentation of tool distributions is lacking. This paper reviews previous archaeological research on Maya textile production and introduces new data from the Classic-period site of Motul de San José, Guatemala. These data complement current understandings of Classic Maya household economies by stressing the relative economic autonomy of households from the state in textile production and the heterogeneity of productive strategies within and between different households. Such heterogeneity is expressed, at least in the case of Motul de San José, by more intensive or larger-scale production conducted by large, elite households than by small, commoner households. This finding implies that textile production for tribute was not a central concern among lower-status groups in this area as it was among many Postclassic- and Contact-period commoners in Mesoamerica. Rather, Classic-period Maya royal and elite individuals were able to bolster further their economic and social standings through textile production because they had easier access to resources or surplus labor found in or associated with their own households.
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Strand, Eva Andersson, Karin Margarita Frei, Margarita Gleba, Ulla Mannering, Marie-Louise Nosch, and Irene Skals. "Old Textiles – New Possibilities." European Journal of Archaeology 13, no. 2 (2010): 149–73. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1461957110365513.

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Textile research has become an important field of archaeology. Although the established analytical methods are often viewed as specialized, their integration with other interdisciplinary approaches allows us to deal with broader archaeological issues and provides the interpretational base for a much more comprehensive investigation of textiles in ancient times. Analyses of fibres, dyes, archaeobotanical and archaeozoological remains, as well as palaeoenvironmental and geochemical investigations, provide information about available resources, while tool studies, experimental testing, and visual grouping are approaches that explore the technology and techniques. Together, these approaches can provide new knowledge about textile production and consumption and, thereby, about people and society in ancient times.
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Březinová, Helena, and David Kohout. "Assemblage of Wool and Silk Textiles from Medieval Waste Layers in Prague, Czech Republic." Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 25 (December 31, 2017): 119–25. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0010.5382.

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The article summarises information on a large assemblage of medieval wool and silk textiles found during an archaeological excavation of waste layers from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries in the centre of Prague. The work primarily presents wool cloths (fulled fabrics) and fabrics (without fulling) in plain and twill weave, which make up the vast majority of the more than 1,500 fragments. The silk textiles presented are interesting evidence of the presence of expensive imported goods in the Bohemian environment. The results, based mainly on textile technology studies of the fabrics, are also supplemented with information acquired during analyses of their current and original colour, including an identification of dyeing sources.
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Janaway, R. C., and R. A. E. Coningham. "A Review of Archaeological Textile Evidence from South Asia." South Asian Studies 11, no. 1 (January 1995): 157–74. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02666030.1995.9628502.

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Okuyama, Masayoshi, Masanori Sato, and Masanori Akada. "Studies on The Excavated Archaeological Textile Fibers Using Room Temperature Ionic Liquid." FIBER 67, no. 2 (2011): 47–52. http://dx.doi.org/10.2115/fiber.67.47.

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Słomska, Joanna, and Łukasz Antosik. "The Hallstatt Textiles from the Bi-ritual Cemetery in Świbie." Światowit 56, no. 1 (January 14, 2019): 129–35. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0012.8481.

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Textile production during the Hallstatt period was an integral part of everyday life of societies living in Poland. However, discoveries of fabrics are very rare. Textile remains from this period survived primarily in the skeletal bi-ritual graves in the Silesia voivodship. Among preserved fragments of organic finds, remains of clothes and elements of accessories can be distinguished. The best-preserved and well-studied textile remains come from the cemetery in Świbie, Gliwice district. The locality was accidentally discovered in 1930s, but regular excavations started there thirty years later. As a result of the archaeological works, 576 cremation urns and skeletal graves were explored providing a rich set of materials. Grave goods were local products, as well as imports from Southern and Western Europe. Sixty three graves contained remains of textiles. The majority of the surviving fabrics adhered to metal outfits. In addition, research encountered woven tape remains, braided ribbons, threads, and strings. The material acquired from the cemetery in Świbie is the largest textile collection from the Hallstatt period discovered in Poland. It waited in a museum warehouse until the year 2015 when the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology of the Polish Academy of Sciences in Łódź initiated further studies. Despite the fact that most fragments were small and mineralised, all the undertaken analyses led to a better understanding of textile production in the Hallstatt period in Poland with its innovative and traditional elements.
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Viljanen, Mira, Jenni A. Suomela, and Kirsi Svedström. "Wide-angle X-ray scattering studies on contemporary and ancient bast fibres used in textiles – ultrastructural studies on stinging nettle." Cellulose 29, no. 4 (January 24, 2022): 2645–61. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10570-021-04400-w.

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AbstractStinging nettle (Urtica dioica) is a potential source material for industrial applications. However, systematic research on the ultrastructural properties of nettle fibres is lacking. Determining the ultrastructure of nettle and the other bast fibres also provides new insights into the studies of archaeological fibres and their usage. In this study, the nanostructure of modern and ancient nettle samples was studied using wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) and compared to other bast fibres. The culturo-historical fibre samples consisted of nettle, flax, and hemp from White Karelian textiles collected 1894 as well as of 800–900-year-old archaeological textile fragments from Ravattula Ristimäki burial site, Finland. Using WAXS, the average cellulose crystallite widths, relative crystallinities and orientational order (including microfibril angle for the modern fibres) were determined and compared. The results also revealed the suitability of the WAXS analysis for fibre identification. The crystallite widths were of the similar size for all modern fibres (3.4–4.8 nm). Subtle differences in the relative crystallinities in descending order (from flax to nettle, and finally hemp) were observed. Also, subtle differences in the mean MFAs were observed (10 ± 1° for flax, 12 ± 1° for nettle, and 14 ± 1° for hemp). For the culturo-historical fibres, the values for crystallite widths and relative crystallinities were larger compared to the corresponding modern references. In addition, features due to the presence of non-cellulosic, crystalline substances (e.g., calcium oxalates) were detected in the WAXS patterns of all the modern nettle fibres. These features could potentially be used as a tool for identification purposes. Graphical abstract
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Books on the topic "Archaeological textile studies"

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Douny, Laurence, and Susanna Harris. Wrapping and Unwrapping Material Culture: Archaeological and Anthropological Perspectives. Taylor & Francis Group, 2016.

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Douny, Laurence, and Susanna Harris. Wrapping and Unwrapping Material Culture: Archaeological and Anthropological Perspectives. Taylor & Francis Group, 2016.

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Wrapping and Unwrapping Material Culture: Archaeological and Anthropological Perspectives. Taylor & Francis Group, 2014.

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Standley, Eleanor R. Dressing the Body. Edited by Christopher Gerrard and Alejandra Gutiérrez. Oxford University Press, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780198744719.013.32.

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This chapter presents the archaeological evidence of dress from later medieval Britain. It includes the often fragmentary textile and leather remains of clothing and shoes, and the dress accessories worn with them. Excavated finds from different types of sites are considered, and the numerous chance finds recorded through the Portable Antiquities Scheme. Accessories such as rings, brooches, buckles, badges, and rosaries, made of base or precious metals, gemstones, or other natural materials, were valued for more than their monetary worth. They had the ability to hold memories and beliefs, convey messages, and protect and display identities. Their role in everyday life makes them suitable for inclusion in future studies on the ‘archaeology of emotion’. The article also highlights the relatively slow development of medieval archaeologists’ interest in apparel, and the need for further work that encompasses a range of sources.
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Jolie, Edward A., and Laurie D. Webster. Perishable Technologies. Edited by Barbara Mills and Severin Fowles. Oxford University Press, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780199978427.013.34.

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The American Southwest is renowned for its excellent preservation of perishable organic artifacts in dry alcoves and cliff dwellings. This chapter discusses past research on and current trends in the study of perishable artifacts such as textiles, baskets, mats, footwear, and worked wood and hides from Southwest archaeological sites. Following a review of prior research, the chapter details the salient research objectives and outcomes of studies investigating the importance of perishable technologies. Prominent research themes include perishables in daily life, the potential for perishable artifact technological and stylistic variability to inform on social interaction, boundaries, and identities, and the role of perishables in ritual practice.
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Hinton, David A. The Medieval Workshop. Edited by Christopher Gerrard and Alejandra Gutiérrez. Oxford University Press, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780198744719.013.21.

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Archaeological evidence of medieval production is mostly in the form of residues rather than of workshops, although pits and hearths have been excavated. Apart from bone and antler, few organic products survive, unlike metal objects. This chapter considers the evidence for agricultural processing and production, textiles, metal-working, carcass products such as tanning, shoe-making, and bone-working, as well as stone, mineral (e.g. salt), and the more familiar clay products of pottery and tile production. Most recent developments have been in analyses, distribution studies, and considerations of the financial values and personal meanings of medieval objects. Most workshops were small scale and often temporary; only the cloth industry had the capacity to raise the capital required for substantial investment.
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Duckworth, Chloë N., and Andrew Wilson, eds. Recycling and Reuse in the Roman Economy. Oxford University Press, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198860846.001.0001.

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The recycling and reuse of materials and objects were extensive in the past, but have rarely been embedded into models of the economy; even more rarely has any attempt been made to assess the scale of these practices. Recent developments, including the use of large datasets, computational modelling, and high-resolution analytical chemistry, are increasingly offering the means to reconstruct recycling and reuse, and even to approach the thorny matter of quantification. Growing scholarly interest in the topic has also led to an increasing recognition of these practices from those employing more traditional methodological approaches, which are sometimes coupled with innovative archaeological theory. Thanks to these efforts, it has been possible for the first time in this volume to draw together archaeological case studies on the recycling and reuse of a wide range of materials, from papyri and textiles, to amphorae, metals and glass, building materials and statuary. Recycling and reuse occur at a range of site types, and often in contexts which cross-cut material categories, or move from one object category to another. The volume focuses principally on the Roman Imperial and late antique world, over a broad geographical span ranging from Britain to North Africa and the East Mediterranean. Last, but not least, the volume is unique in focusing upon these activities as a part of the status quo, and not just as a response to crisis.
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Book chapters on the topic "Archaeological textile studies"

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Fennell, Christopher C. "Making and Harvesting Commodities." In The Archaeology of Craft and Industry, 23–53. University Press of Florida, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.5744/florida/9780813069043.003.0002.

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Many businesses manufactured, harvested, or processed natural and human-made commodities. Archaeological studies of such goods tend to focus on the use and disposal of those products. Analysis has also focused on changes in manufacturing methods evident in the attributes of those discarded objects. This chapter instead highlights archaeological investigations of the production sites. Such projects have been relatively few in number compared to studies of products themselves in end-user contexts. As a result, the sample of case studies presented here represents actual archaeology projects on work sites that were completed and published, rather than an idealized selection of historical subjects. This chapter’s survey considers early textile mills, the blessing and curse of new rails for pottery production, and the material culture of glass works and cutlery manufacture. Other projects examine saddletree production, seafood commodities in local and international markets, bakery and cheese suppliers, interactions of artisans and beer bottling in an armoury town, and family-run binderies and tanneries.
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Snow, Katie. "Restorage of Archaeological Textiles at the Museum of London." In Studies in Archaeological Conservation, 207–16. Routledge, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.4324/9780429342257-27.

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Bartindale, Susannah R. "Conservation and Repackaging of a Collection of Coptic Textiles." In Studies in Archaeological Conservation, 217–26. Routledge, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.4324/9780429342257-28.

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Swift, Ellen, Jo Stoner, and April Pudsey. "Introduction to Part II." In A Social Archaeology of Roman and Late Antique Egypt, 207–27. Oxford University Press, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198867340.003.0007.

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This chapter introduces the material to be studied in Part II; it outlines the types of evidence for functional domestic artefacts that reveal the experiences of daily life in Roman and late antique Egypt. It explains that an analysis of object function can reveal how objects were used for different activities on a day-to-day basis, and therefore demonstrate some of the experiences of people in the past. The section assesses a range of everyday artefacts in durable materials, like stone, glass, ceramic, metals, and bone and ivory. Artefacts associated with daily activities such as cooking and dining, lighting the home, leisure time, and textile production are discussed in relation to specific examples from the archaeological record and textual sources. The section also addresses the extraordinary organic artefacts surviving from Egypt, and the special value of functional artefacts made of wood, textiles, leather, and other perishable materials. Organic artefacts associated with home furnishings and other textiles, writing tools and materials, basketry, and cleaning equipment, are discussed in relation to the experiences they facilitated in Roman and late antique Egypt. The chapter also discusses how these artefacts reveal the temporal rhythms of the home and multifunctional nature of domestic space and objects.
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Gordon, Robert B., and Patrick M. Malone. "Countryside, Shops, and Ships." In The Texture of Industry. Oxford University Press, 1994. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780195058857.003.0013.

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In the early seventeenth century, Americans began setting up shops to manufacture items such as soda ash, gunpowder, glass, charcoal, iron, casks, and wagons on a larger scale than they could manage in their homes. In some establishments, the proprietor was a practicing artisan (usually designated a “craftsman” today), while in others, such as glasshouses and ironworks, a manager coordinated the efforts of a dozen or more people. By the early nineteenth century, many Americans were participating in these industries, either full time or as an adjunct to farming. When we look at surviving artifacts from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, we find evidence that American artisans were steadily increasing the range and depth of their industrial skills. There were few socially constructed barriers to the range of skills that an individual could practice at work, and imaginative artisans could cross the conventional boundaries between trades, enriching the different technologies of each. The diversity of their work experiences contributed to a growing technological sophistication that helped Americans gain industrial maturity in the nineteenth century. Many people, including children, learned about artisans’ capabilities as they visited workplaces. The mechanization of work in America is sometimes associated with the advent of factories, but it was already under way in tasks such as sawing timber, grinding grain, and forging iron by the mid-seventeenth century. Americans gradually adopted machinery to ease the labor of producing goods, and learning about mechanical technology became part of everyday life in agricultural and frontier communities as well as in towns. Machinery became increasingly important in the work of craftsmen such as silversmiths, gunsmiths, and furniture makers, hut work in other industries was never extensively mechanized. Archaeological evidence tells us about work processes in some of these types of enterprises. American Indians possessed higher levels of technological skill than many of us realize. The physical evidence of their craftsmanship and well-organized efforts to extract natural resources stand in sharp contrast to the assertions of Indian primitiveness that fill many historical studies.
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Conference papers on the topic "Archaeological textile studies"

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Sendrea, Claudiu, Maria-Cristina Micu, Emanuel Hadimbu, Simona Maria Paunescu, Iulia Maria Caniola, Madalina Ignat, Lucretia Miu, and Elena Badea. "Micro DSC and NMR MOUSE studies of collagen–vegetable tannin interaction mechanism during leather making." In The 8th International Conference on Advanced Materials and Systems. INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, Romania, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.24264/icams-2020.v.13.

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In this study NMR MOUSE and micro DSC techniques were used to investigate the interaction between collagen and various vegetable tannins during leather making process with the aim of gaining a deeper understanding of different water environment in relation to tannin type. We have previously showed that relaxation times may provide useful information on collagen matrix properties. The vegetable tanned leathers were obtained by patented techniques inspired from ancient recipes at the National R&D Institute for Textile and Leather, ICPI Division, Bucharest using various vegetable extracts such as myrobalan, gambier and chestnut. Longitudinal and transversal relaxation times T1 and T2eff were measured using a PM2 portable NMR-MOUSE with 20.05 MHz frequency. Micro DSC measurements were carried out with a high-sensitivity SETARAM Micro-DSC III in the temperature range (5 to 95) °C at 0.5 K min-1 heating rate. The investigated leathers showed significant differences in the values of spin-spin (T2eff) and spin-lattice (T1) relaxation times depending on tannin type that well corelates with the variation of the calorimetric parameters (denaturation temperature and enthalpy, peak shape). These results highlight the complementarity of the information obtained by the two techniques and open new ways for both designing new leather assortments and analyses of historical and archaeological leather.
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