Dissertationen zum Thema „Observations côtières“
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Lahet, Florence. „Caractérisation optique d'eaux côtières mediterraneennes : mesure, modélisation et inversion des réflectances. Application aux observations satellitales“. Toulon, 1999. http://www.theses.fr/1999TOUL0012.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleThe determination of water quality parameters in coastal waters is tackled by experimental and algorithmic approaches. The experimental aspect includes measurements of attenuation coefficient and reflectance. The algorithmic method is based on a semi-analytic approach. A three-component reflectance model, that takes into account the contributions of dissolved organic matter, phytoplankton and mineral particles is inverted in order to estimate the chlorophyll a concentration, chl, the sediment refractive index, mr, and the absorption coefficient of disoived organic matter at 440 nm, ^(440), from experimental reflectance spectra and suspended sediments concentrations, C. The inversion procedure, based on the minimization of the quadratic difference between modelled and experimental reflectance values, is applied to experimental data collected in the Ebro River mouth area. It appears that chl values are not accurately retrieved using the proposed method and that mr and a, (440) values are realistic as compared to those previously published and little sensitive to chl variations. A colour classification of the study area waters is introduced in order to improve the precision of chl estimates. Each water class is associated with typical values of C, chl, m, and av(440) and correlations are established between the first derivative of reflectance and those four parameters. Associating an empiric method and a semi-analytic method allows the concurrent estimate of suspended sediment and chlorophyll a concentrations with variation coefficients lower than 50 %, The proposed method consists in estimating chl from empirical algorithms then C and av(440) are determined by inversion of the reflectance model parameterized from the mean value of mr typical of the water class considered and from the empirical value of chl. Finally, we examine the extension of our method of water quality parameters restitution by considering the reflectances sampled at the wavelengths of MERIS channels
Goberville, Eric. „Evolution décennale des zones côtières : forçages climatiques, forçages anthropiques“. Thesis, Bordeaux 1, 2010. http://www.theses.fr/2010BOR14171/document.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleCovering only 8% of the World Ocean but with 85% of exploited marine resources, coastal systems are important areas for the exchange of materials and energy, playing a crucial role in biogeochemical cycles. Moreover, these environments are marked by strong spatial and temporal heterogeneity of environmental factors, contributing to their complexity. In recent decades, global change exerted on these systems has become so intense that the implementation of long-term monitoring programmes has become essential to extract major trends and predict potential changes. However, the identification of the specific response of these coastal systems remains posed. In France, monitoring of physical and chemical parameters of coastal waters is provided since 1997 by the programme SOMLIT (Service d'Observation en Milieu LITtoral). The aim of this PhD Thesis is therefore to characterize year-to-year variability in physic-chemical properties of the surface layer, at a decadal scale, of the French coastal systems, and to evaluate the respective influence of natural and anthropogenic variability. Firstly, the analysis of these time series shows that the French coastal systems exhibit significant temporal variability, due to hydro-climatic fluctuations at meso and regional scales. Secondly, the development of a new nonparametric multivariate procedure, resulting in the constitution of relative reference states for the rapid detection of changes, allows quantifying the fertilization in nutrient concentrations. Moreover, it is shown that fertilization can be strongly influenced by climate forcing. Thirdly, after the removal of natural climate variability, indicators of human fertilisation are proposed, allowing the quantification of the impact of human activities on French coastal systems. This study proposes a new approach to detect as soon as data become available, potential alterations in all types of systems, with the aim of meeting the scientific and societal assumptions and allowing the adaptive management of coastal environments
Moncuquet, Adèle. „Coastal internal waves on the Bay of Biscay shelf and their impact on cross-shelf transport“. Electronic Thesis or Diss., Brest, 2024. http://www.theses.fr/2024BRES0010.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleThe Bay of Biscay (BoB) is a hot spot for the generation of internal tides and nonlinear internal waves (NLIW). Previous studies have focused mainly on the seaward propagation of internal waves, and less on the shoreward propagation. The shelf region can be affected by internal tides and NLIW transport. The shelf is a complex hydrodynamical region and processes of different scales modify the background stratification and currents. Therefore, internal waves transform as they propagate across the shelf. Internal wave transformation on the shelf and the induced transport remain poorly described worldwide, especially on the BoB shelves. In this thesis, we describe the internal tide and NLIW from mooring observations on the BoB shelf and the induced cross-shelf transport. First, we describe the internal tide and NLIW on the Aquitaine shelf using 22 days of measurements (at 62 and 153 m depth). The results highlight the unexpected importance of the internal tide and NLIW during summer-time stratified conditions. NLIW of depression and elevation, with amplitude reaching up to 1/4th of the water depth and propagating shoreward with different speeds were observed. We observed conditions in which depression and elevation waves coexisted within the same internal tide phase, and could potentially interact. The second part of the work is dedicated to crossshelf net transport, associated with internal waves, or internal waves pumping (IWP) on both the Aquitaine and the Armorican shelf. On the Armorican shelf, IWP was the main driver of total transport near the boundaries and counterbalanced the subtidal dynamics in the middle of the water column. On the Aquitaine shelf, the total cross-shelf transport was a combination of subtidal transport and IWP
Goyens, Clémence. „Validation et amélioration des méthodes de correction atmosphérique pour les images de la couleur de l'océan dans les eaux côtières optiquement complexes“. Thesis, Littoral, 2013. http://www.theses.fr/2013DUNK0401/document.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleTo acquire marine parameters from remote sensing ocean color data, the sensor-measured signal needs to be corrected for the atmospheric contribution. Indeed, the solar radiation reflected by air molecules and atmospheric aerosols is significant in the sensor bands of interest for ocean color applications. The removal of the atmospheric contribution is called the atmospheric correction (AC). In open ocean waters, the AC relies on the assumption that the water is totally absorbent in the near infrared (NIR) part of the spectral region, allowing to retrieve the atmospheric contribution and to extrapolate it to the visible spectral range, and thus to determine the marine signal that contains the information on the optical properties of seawaters. However, this assumption is not valid in highly productive and turbid coastal waters. Hence, AC approaches for coastal waters need to rely on alternative assumptions. This Ph. D. thesis has as main objective to validate and improve these AC methods developed for contrasted coastal waters, with a focus on MODIS Aqua images. First, a validation and comparison of existing AC methods, relying on diverse assumptions and methods, is performed. Therefore, four commonly used AC methods are selected, (1) the standard NIR AC approach of NASA, (2) the NIR similarity spectrum AC approach including assumptions of spatial homogeneity in the water and aerosol reflectance, (3) the switching algorithm using the short wave infrared bands for AC in highly turbid waters, (4) an Artificial Neural Network algorithm. With the help of a validation exercise based on in situ data and as a function of the water type, several areas of improvement are delineated, including the use of spectral relationships to constrain NIR-modelling schemes. Modified NIR-modelling schemes are suggested for the standard NASA and NIR similarity spectrum AC methods. Both are forced with globally valid spectral relationships. Sensitivity studies and validation exercises, using MODIS-Aqua images in the Eastern English Channel/North Sea and French Guiana waters, are conducted showing that the suggested modified NIR-modelling schemes improve the estimations of the marine signal in contrasted coastal waters
Martel, Catherine. „Analyse géométrique et physique d'images d'observation de la terre : éléments d'hydrodynamique côtière“. Toulouse 3, 1990. http://www.theses.fr/1990TOU30107.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleMansui, Jérémy. „Observation et modélisation des macro-déchets en mer Méditerranée, de la large échelle aux échelles côtière et littorale“. Thesis, Toulon, 2015. http://www.theses.fr/2015TOUL0015/document.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleThe main objective of this work is to study the floating marine debris transport mechanisms and their potentialaccumulation in the Mediterranean Sea, using numerical modelling and in-situ observations of debris. Thetransport dynamics is analysed in terms of typical scales in the basin, from the large scale to the coastal andlocal scales.First, the analysis of a Lagrangian experience data set show the potential existence of non-permanent and largeretention areas (Mansui et al., 2015a). In a second stage, the coastal impact of a boundary current (the NorthernCurrent) and atmospheric forcings on the local distribution and stranding of floating marine litter has beenestimated (Mansui et al., 2015b, under revision), using an original set of data combining offshore sightings andbeaching surveys
Guenard, Vincent. „Etude du mistral en zone côtière : approches théoriques et observationnelles appliquées aux campagnes MAP et ESCOMPTE“. Toulon, 2004. http://www.theses.fr/2004TOUL0010.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleThe vertical structure of the coastal mistral has been investigated in the context of the MAP (autumn 1999) and ESCOMPTE summer 2001) field campaigns. The study combines the observational (through the exploitation of the multi-platform data avalaible in both experiments), the theoretical (using the basic existing theories dealing with orographic flows) and the numerical (using the non-hydrostatic atmospheric model RAMS) approaches to point out the physical processes involved in mistral episodes. Upstream blocking, channelling, splitting, wave breakings, lee wakes, downslope and frictional effects result in a deep or a shallow structure according to the direction of the incident flow in strong mistral events. The daily weak mistral is lifted up above the atmospheric boundary layer by convection and sea breezes while the nighttime weak mistral is accelerated by land breezes as a nocturnal low-level jet
Younes, Wallid A. M. „Observation par une acquisition à haute définition spatiale de la variabilité temporelle à différentes échelles d'un hydrosystème estuarien : le Rhône et de son influence sur les eaux côtières“. Aix-Marseille 2, 2000. http://www.theses.fr/2000AIX22098.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleRocha, Mariana Vieira Lima Matias da. „Observation et modélisation des ondes infra-gravitaires et des non-linéarités des vagues en milieu littoral“. Thesis, Université Grenoble Alpes (ComUE), 2016. http://www.theses.fr/2016GREAU043/document.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleWave nonlinearities have long been recognised as being among the main drivers of sediment transport in the coastal zone. However, there are still significant errors in the prediction of this transport associated, partially due to inaccurate predictions of the velocity nonlinearities. The infragravity waves, which coexist with the short waves in the coastal zone, are long-period waves (with 20-200 s) associated to the short-wave groups. Their generation, propagation and dissipation mechanisms are already reasonably well understood, but their influence on sediment transport is still very poorly characterised. In order to (i) improve current predictions of velocity nonlinearities and (ii) investigate the role of infragravity waves in sediment transport, new experiments were carried out both in a fixed-bed wave flume and in a light-weight-sediment wave flume. The physical-modelling data set is used in combination with field data and numerical simulations for studying both subjects. Existing parameterizations of velocity nonlinearities account only for the influence of local wave parameters (e.g. wave height, wave length and water depth), which leads to considerable estimation errors, especially of the maximal values of nonlinearity. This work shows that the velocity nonlinearities depend also on non-local wave parameters: (i) offshore wave steepness, (ii) offshore spectral bandwidth and (iii) beach slope. A new parameterization is proposed, which reduces by about 50% the root-mean-square error relatively to former parameterizations. The experimental results in the light-weight-sediment wave flume demonstrate that wave conditions with the same short-wave energy, but different low-frequency modulation, shape different equilibrium beach profiles. The influence of the infragravity waves on the sediment transport is confirmed and depends on two different mechanisms: (i) advection of the short-wave suspended sediment by the infragravity-waves, which is dependent on the infragravity-wave height and phasing with the short-wave groups and (ii) modulation of short-wave nonlinearities by infragravity-wave motion, both directly and indirectly, through water-depth modulation. Changes in the beachface morphology induced by infragravity waves are connected to beach-profile changes in the surf and inner-shoaling zones, highlighting the existent link between the different zones of the cross-shore beach profile
Piton, Violaine. „Du Fleuve Rouge au golfe du Tonkin : dynamique et transport sédimentaire le long du continuum estuaire-zone côtière“. Thesis, Toulouse 3, 2019. http://www.theses.fr/2019TOU30235.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleDeltas and coastal regions deliver the largest inputs of freshwater and sediments to the shelf and open ocean, understanding water and sediment dynamics and variability in those regions is therefore crucial. The spatio-temporal variability of estuarine and ocean dynamics under the influence of natural forcings and their impact on sediment transport and fate was assessed along the Red River estuary - coastal ocean - Gulf of Tonkin continuum. First, in-situ estuarine observations evidenced the seasonal and tidal variabilities of flow and suspended matter, and showed in particular the role of tidal pumping in the estuary siltation. Second, a 3D realistic hydrodynamic model was set up and calibrated with various observations and satellite data. Beforehand, a high-resolution model configuration was implemented and optimized with sensitivity tests of the Gulf of Tonkin's tidal components to bathymetry and various bottom friction parameterizations. Third, the resulting optimized configuration was used to study the large scale Gulf of Tonkin circulation at daily, seasonal and interannual scales, and to identify the drivers of their variabilities. Ekman transport variability due to monsoon winds reversal drives the seasonal circulation, which can be reversed in summer by episodic typhoon events and intensified in winter. ENSO, strong typhoon activity and Arctic Oscillation have been identified as drivers of the interannual circulation variability. Lastly, preliminary tests with a sediment transport module coupled with the hydrodynamics model revealed the importance of the seabed composition and of the parameterization of the erosion coefficients
Herbert, Gaëlle. „Modélisation et observation de la dynamique haute fréquence de la circulation du Golfe de Gascogne“. Phd thesis, Université Paul Sabatier - Toulouse III, 2012. http://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00755017.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleHerbert, Gaëlle. „Modélisation et observation de la dynamique haute fréquence de la circulation du golfe de Gascogne“. Phd thesis, Toulouse 3, 2012. http://thesesups.ups-tlse.fr/1751/.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleWe analyse the variability of winter upper circulation in the southern Bay of Biscay from satellite and in situ observations and numerical simulations based on the SYMPHONIE code. We aim to get a better insight on the high frequency dynamics (a few hours to a few days) due to atmospheric forcing and estimate the adequacy of available tools to observe and simulate these processes. We first determine whether a coastal altimetric dataset (based on TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 alongtrack data) can detect occurrences of a slope current (the Iberian Poleward Current, IPC). The results show the ability of altimetry to monitor IPC pulses under any atmospheric conditions or when the SST signature is weak, that makes it as an essential component for the IPC observing system in addition to satellite SST and mooring data. Then, we analyse the ocean response to storm Klaus that occurred on January 24th 2009 and its representation in a numerical simulation. More specifically, we characterize the response in temperature and salinity and the vertical mixing processes, the response in surface currents and the surge associated to the windstorm. The realism of the numerical simulation to represent these processes is evaluated by comparisons with satellite and in situ observations. Besides, a large part of the study is dedicated to improve the numerical simulations making several tests on parametrisations
Pairaud, Ivane. „Modélisation et analyse de la marée interne dans le golfe de Gascogne“. Phd thesis, Université Paul Sabatier - Toulouse III, 2005. http://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00067994.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleBesset, Manon. „Morphodynamique récente, évolution et vulnérabilité des littoraux deltaïques : une analyse globale“. Electronic Thesis or Diss., Aix-Marseille, 2017. http://theses.univ-amu.fr.lama.univ-amu.fr/171122_BESSET_150scdmpz142i993bv93l_TH.pdf.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleRiver deltas are rich and fragile ecosystems. Deltas depend on fluvial sediment supply to balance natural subsidence and erosion caused by waves and currents. Deltas are mainly affected by river flooding, marine submersion. However, deltas are strategic sites of human settlement, economic hotspots, and geopolitical issues. This attraction increases the pressure, rendering these deltas more and more exposed to risks and vulnerable.The main objective of this thesis is to analyze the past and present functional dynamics of delta shorelines based on 60 of the world’s deltas and a holistic and systemic approach with spatial, environmental, and societal data. After the study of recent coastal evolution showing a tendency to decreasing progradation of many deltas, a conceptual and qualitative classification of deltaic morphology based on fluviomarine influences was conducted. Updating of this classification and the proposal of new approaches, in terms of morphology, dynamics, and vulnerability, have necessitated revisiting these older schemes, and the adoption of a methodological and interpretative approach aimed at quantification of the weight of each of these three parameters showing the complexity of the interactions. The thesis proposes a new quantitative and objective classificatory framework, including the human dimension. Finally, the thesis highlights the responses of deltaic shorelines to exceptional perturbations, and highlights the limits of resilience. The thesis advises over the impact of humans on these fragile coastal environments, the equilibrium of which strongly depends on sediment supply. This fragility is further exacerbated by the impacts of climate change
Besset, Manon. „Morphodynamique récente, évolution et vulnérabilité des littoraux deltaïques : une analyse globale“. Thesis, Aix-Marseille, 2017. http://www.theses.fr/2017AIXM0326/document.
Der volle Inhalt der QuelleRiver deltas are rich and fragile ecosystems. Deltas depend on fluvial sediment supply to balance natural subsidence and erosion caused by waves and currents. Deltas are mainly affected by river flooding, marine submersion. However, deltas are strategic sites of human settlement, economic hotspots, and geopolitical issues. This attraction increases the pressure, rendering these deltas more and more exposed to risks and vulnerable.The main objective of this thesis is to analyze the past and present functional dynamics of delta shorelines based on 60 of the world’s deltas and a holistic and systemic approach with spatial, environmental, and societal data. After the study of recent coastal evolution showing a tendency to decreasing progradation of many deltas, a conceptual and qualitative classification of deltaic morphology based on fluviomarine influences was conducted. Updating of this classification and the proposal of new approaches, in terms of morphology, dynamics, and vulnerability, have necessitated revisiting these older schemes, and the adoption of a methodological and interpretative approach aimed at quantification of the weight of each of these three parameters showing the complexity of the interactions. The thesis proposes a new quantitative and objective classificatory framework, including the human dimension. Finally, the thesis highlights the responses of deltaic shorelines to exceptional perturbations, and highlights the limits of resilience. The thesis advises over the impact of humans on these fragile coastal environments, the equilibrium of which strongly depends on sediment supply. This fragility is further exacerbated by the impacts of climate change
Tay, Sarab. „Analyse et modélisation de l'utilisation de signaux GNSS en environnement marin“. Phd thesis, 2012. http://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00776316.
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