Zeitschriftenartikel zum Thema „Low-crested waves“

Low-crested (LC) rubble mound breakwaters are used for coastal protection. The main advantage of these structures is their mild aesthetic impact on the natural environment. As the waves approach and transmit over these structures, significant hydrodynamic processes occur in their proximal area, such as wave breaking, wave reflection, wave overtopping and transmission (Garcia et al., 2004). Many researchers have studied the hydrodynamics of flow in the vicinity of such structures, as well as the influence of their geometrical characteristics on the flow field. However, in most studies, the structures are either emerged or submerged, while the case in which the crest level of the breakwaters is at the still water level (SWL) has to be further investigated.

Breakwaters made of sand container is one of the most economical options for wave protection at coastal areas. These breakwaters have been adopted with mixed success at several locations in Malaysia. Nevertheless, the performance of these structure has not been properly studied and documented to date. This study is undertaken to study the wave transmission ability of the submerged sand container breakwater with respect to its width and height as well as the water depth. A number of experiments have been conducted in a wave flume to quantify the wave transmission coefficient of the test models of different layouts when exposed to regular waves. The experimental result has shown that the breakwater is effective in arresting the shorter period waves, particularly in shallow water. The height of the breakwater has to be increased in order to arrest the longer period waves.

The paper highlights the problem of evaluating the extreme surge response of a floating, deep water structure subjected to stochastic loading from concurrent wind and waves. Additional load effects associated with ocean currents are also briefly discussed. Both long-crested and short-crested waves are considered, whereas the wind field is assumed to be unidirectional. The probability density function (PDF) of the combined wave frequency and low frequency response of the structure, due to waves, is calculated by an eigenvalue analysis and convoluted with the corresponding PDF from the wind loads, to obtain the PDF of the global response. The necessity of employing full, biquadratic transfer functions to evaluate the low frequency part of the wave loads is amply documented. The effect of short-crested versus unidirectional seas on the TLP motion response is discussed at some length, along with various numerical aspects related to the mathematical modelling and to the convergence and accuracy of the obtained solutions. Numerical solutions are presented for a wide range of harsh weather type, environmental parameters.

The effects of boundaries on flexural wave propagation in plates with viscous damping are studied through spectral and finite element analyses of incident and reflected waves. The incident wave is generated by point impact and therefore has the complication of being circularly crested. Results show excellent agreement between finite element and spectral solutions for waves—with high and low damping—reflected from simply supported, clamped and free edges. In addition, the possibility of Rayleigh-type free edge waves are investigated.

A Boussinesq type numerical model was developed which can simulate both wave fields and current fields around permeable detached breakwaters. The validity of the model was verified through measurements of waves and nearshore currents in hydraulic experiments investigating reflection and transmission capability. The porosity of the structure was accounted by a friction term incorporating turbulent resistance. The combination of turbulent friction model and anisotropic diffusion type wave breaking model was found to reproduce wave fields around the detached breakwaters and nearshore current fields behind the structures with a good accuracy.

The combined action of environmental forcing (waves, coastal currents, sediment transport, e.t.c.), the continuously decreasing supply of coastal areas with sediment from rivers, as well as the intense anthropogenic activity, results in the appearance of severe erosion problems in coastal areas and constantly decreasing beach width. A frequently used coastal protection measure is the construction of detached breakwaters parallel to the coastline. Detached breakwaters have a direct effect on the incoming waves, which contributes to the control of coastal sediment transport, hence the morphodynamics of the coastal bed. There are many examples of such structures, the majority of which are emerged breakwaters. Recently, interest has been directed towards the construction of low-crested (LC) and submerged breakwaters due to the reduced construction cost and a more effective harmonization with the natural environment. These structures are characterized by wave overtopping and breaking over their crest in addition to all other coastal processes that are involved with emerged breakwaters. For the proper design of such structures, one critical aspect is the behavior of the induced flow in their vicinity due to their presence. To this purpose, several studies have been carried out in recent years. In particular, Petti et al. (1994) studied experimentally the large scale vortices developed by waves breaking above a submerged breakwater. Mory and Hamm (1997) performed measurements of wave height, surface elevation and wave generated currents around a detached breakwater for incoming regular and irregular waves. Kramer et al. (2005) performed a series of experimental measurements in order to study the waves - LC structure interaction, in terms of flow velocity and turbulence developing around such structures within the European Project DE.LO.S. Garcia et al. (2004), Losada et al. (2005), Johnson et al. (2005) e.t.c. used the database created within the DE.LO.S. project to develop and validate numerical codes for the simulation of wave-induced flow around LC breakwaters. The aim of the present study was the experimental study of the flow developed by waves in the vicinity of an LC rubble mound breakwater with crest level at the water line (zero freeboard). The geometrical scale of the physical model was 1/30. The breakwater was placed on a beach of constant slope 1/15, which is typical of steep beaches in Greece.

AbstractLow-frequency currents and eddies transport sediment, pathogens, larvae, and heat along the coast and between the shoreline and deeper water. Here, low-frequency currents (between 0.1 and 4.0 mHz) observed in shallow surfzone waters for 120 days during a wide range of wave conditions are compared with theories for generation by instabilities of alongshore currents, by ocean-wave-induced sea surface modulations, and by a nonlinear transfer of energy from breaking waves to low-frequency motions via a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. For these data, the low-frequency currents are not strongly correlated with shear of the alongshore current, with the strength of the alongshore current, or with wave-group statistics. In contrast, on many occasions, the low-frequency currents are consistent with an inverse energy cascade from breaking waves. The energy of the low-frequency surfzone currents increases with the directional spread of the wave field, consistent with vorticity injection by short-crested breaking waves, and structure functions increase with spatial lags, consistent with a cascade of energy from few-meter-scale vortices to larger-scale motions. These results include the first field evidence for the inverse energy cascade in the surfzone and suggest that breaking waves and nonlinear energy transfers should be considered when estimating nearshore transport processes across and along the coast.

In this work, periodic lateral boundaries are developed in a time dependent mild-slope equation model, MILDwave, for the accurate generation of regular waves and irregular long and short crested waves in any direction. A single wave generation line inside the computational domain is combined with periodic lateral boundaries. This generation layout yields a homogeneous and thus accurate wave field in the whole domain in contrast to an L-shaped and an arc-shaped wave generation layout where wave diffraction patterns appear inside the computational domain as a result of the intersection of the two wave generation lines and the interaction with the lateral sponge layers. In addition, the performance of the periodic boundaries was evaluated for two different wave synthesis methods for short crested waves generation, a method proposed by Miles and a method proposed by Sand and Mynett. The results show that the MILDwave model with the addition of periodic boundaries and the Sand and Mynett method is capable of reproducing a homogeneous wave field as well as the target frequency spectrum and the target directional spectrum with a low computational cost. The overall performance of the developed model is validated with experimental results for the case of wave transformation over an elliptic shoal (Vincent and Briggs shoal experiment). The numerical results show very good agreement with the experimental data. The proposed generation layout using periodic lateral boundaries makes the mild-slope wave model, MILDwave, an essential tool to study coastal areas and wave energy converter (WEC) farms under realistic 3D wave conditions, due to its significantly small computational cost and its high numerical stability and robustness.

This paper presents the use of virtual level (VL) probes as an alternative image-based approach to investigate the interaction of waves with coastal structures in wave flume experiments. These probes are defined as regions of interest located at specific positions along the horizontal domain of the images, in which edge interfaces are detected and, thus, their vertical motions can be obtained. To demonstrate the use of the methodology, a critical condition of breaking waves interacting with a Cubipod homogeneous low-crested structure (HLCS) in a two-dimensional framework was selected. With the video recorded from the experiments, image calibration, processing, and analysis stages were implemented to analyze the performance of the HLCS in reducing wave elevations and to study the stability of the armor units. The present approach can be extended to a wide range of coastal structures applications where the interface detection between components of the scene is useful to observe the behavior of coastal structures, increasing effectiveness and alternatives to acquire precise data in 2D experimental tests.

There is a growing interest in the application of submerged rubble mound breakwaters as coastal defence structures. As their defensive ability highly depends on the amount of wave energy remaining at their lee side, the accurate prediction of the energy in the lee of such structures is of utmost importance. Past experiments have shown that the behaviour of rough permeable rubble mound structures under oblique wave attack was found to be significantly different from that of smooth impermeable low crested structures. This behavioural difference has led to the research objective of this present study which is to investigate oblique wave transmission by rough impermeable rubble mound submerged breakwaters using 3D physical model tests. This study intentionally uncouples two parameters, being the permeability of the core and the roughness of the breakwater. Analysing the data of this study shows that the permeability of the core has no visible influence on the structure's behaviour with respect to the influence of oblique wave attack. The fully permeable rough rubble mound breakwater behaves analogous to the fully impermeable rough rubble mound breakwater.

The New Orleans Municipal Yacht Harbor (MYH) is located on the south shore of Lake Pontchartrain, 6 miles north of downtown New Orleans. The harbor was damaged during Hurricane Katrina in 2005, and recent city planning efforts have proposed reconstruction of the harbor interior. Moffatt & Nichol led the design, including the hydrodynamic study which established the marine design criteria. The site is exposed to high surge events which can inundate the harbor’s broad, low-crested earthen breakwater and allow waves to transmit directly into the interior.

A numerical wave flume based on the particle finite element method (PFEM) is applied to simulate wave overtopping for impermeable maritime structures. An assessment of the performance and robustness of the numerical wave flume is carried out for two different cases comparing numerical results with experimental data. In the first case, a well-defined benchmark test of a simple low-crested structure overtopped by regular nonbreaking waves is presented, tested in the lab, and simulated in the numerical wave flume. In the second case, state-of-the-art physical experiments of a trapezoidal structure placed on a sloping beach overtopped by regular breaking waves are simulated in the numerical wave flume. For both cases, main overtopping events are well detected by the numerical wave flume. However, nonlinear processes controlling the tests proposed, such as nonlinear wave generation, energy losses along the wave propagation track, wave reflection, and overtopping events, are reproduced with more accuracy in the first case. Results indicate that a numerical wave flume based on the PFEM can be applied as an efficient tool to supplement physical models, semiempirical formulations, and other numerical techniques to deal with overtopping of maritime structures.

At Waku fishing port, facing to Japan Sea, in Yamaguchi prefecture, Japan, a vertical type breakwater was constructed in front of the mouth of the port to protect the inside against incoming waves about 10 years ago. Residents in the area have been troubled with heavy seawater spray and much smaller sea salt particles caused at the breakwater by sever waves and strong winds ever since. To reduce the generation of and the damage from the seawater spray and the sea salt particles, three different types of measures were proposed: (a) covering the breakwater with wave dissipating blocks, (b) construction of a low crested offshore breakwater some distance ahead of the breakwater, and (c) construction of an artificial reef some distance ahead of the breakwater. Laboratory experiments using a wave flume with a wind tunnel were conducted to compare the effects of suppressing the water spray generation. The results of the comparative experiments showed that the covering with the wave dissipating blocks (Plan (a)) is the most effective means.

Extensive knowledge is available on the overtopping behaviour of traditional smooth impermeable sea defence structures, such as mildly sloping dikes and vertical walls, both typically featuring a high crest freeboard to reduce wave overtopping. A particular design application emerges in the development of wave energy converters of the overtopping type, where maximisation of wave overtopping is required, i.e. smooth impermeable steep sloping structures with low crest freeboards subjected to non-breaking waves. To date, only relatively limited knowledge is available on the overtopping behaviour of those structures. In this study, the average overtopping rate obtained from new experiments has been analysed and compared with existing prediction methods. This study contributes to a better knowledge on the overtopping behaviour of the steep low-crested structures, which is positioned in between that of mildly sloping dikes and vertical walls on the one hand, and in between that of structures with zero crest freeboards and relatively large crest freeboards on the other hand. The existing prediction methods seem unable to predict the significant effects of the slope angle and small relative crest freeboards on the average overtopping rate accurately. Therefore, a new set of prediction formulae is proposed based on the new experiments combined with existing data from literature. These formulae include wave overtopping at vertical walls subjected to non-impacting waves and at structures with zero crest freeboard.

Low-crested detached breakwaters (LCDBs) have been widely employed as a mitigation measure against beach erosion. However, only a few studies have assessed their performance in sea-breeze-dominated environments. This work investigates the beach morphodynamics behind LCDBs deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze-dominated beach. The study area, located in the northern Yucatán peninsula, is characterized by low-energy, high-angle waves, which drive a persistent (westward) alongshore sediment transport (O(104) m3/year). High-resolution real-time kinematics global positioning system (GPS) beach surveys were conducted over a one-year period (2017–2018) to investigate the performance of LCDBs at three sites. Moreover, unmanned aerial vehicle flights were employed to evaluate far-field shoreline stability. Field observations revealed a distinct behavior in the three study sites, dependent on the breakwaters’ transmission characteristics, geometry, stability, and shoreline orientation. Impermeable LCDBs, made of sand-filled geosystems, induced significant beach accretion (erosion) in up-(down-)drift areas. On the other hand, permeable LCDBs, made of Reef Ball™ modules, induced moderate beach changes and small erosion in down-drift areas owing to higher transmission coefficients. Measurements of LCDBs’ freeboard height show that sand-filled geosystems’ breakwaters presented a significant loss of sand during the study period, which explains the unexpected beach morphodynamic response on the lee side of the structure. Observations suggest that the study area is highly sensitive to the presence of LCDBs with low transmissivity.

This paper introduces the 2D experiments conducted for the CREST project in the wave flume of Ghent University. The experiments focus on wave interactions with low-crested sea dikes fronted by a shallow foreshore and mildly to steeply sloping beaches, which is a very typical situation along the Belgian coast. Foreshore slopes of 1/20, 1/35, 1/50 and 1/80 were tested for a range of low to high energy wave conditions, a variation in wave steepness and two water levels. The main goal was to obtain a dataset in which the effects of the infragravity waves on the wave-structure interactions (i.e. wave overtopping and impact forces) can be studied. The tests included high spatial resolution surface elevation measurement tests, which is new for beaches including a dike in the inner surf zone. From the first results it became clear that the foreshore slope influences the wave transformation up to the dike toe. The influence is apparent comparing to existing (semi-) empirical models for prediction of the spectral wave period at the dike toe and wave overtopping at the dike crest. The high spatial resolution data show a steep increase in infragravity significant wave height in the very shallow area in front of the dike.

The main parameter for the assessment of coastal vulnerability and sediment transport is the wave run-up on the beach, defining the limit of maximum flooding, but also hydrodynamic properties in the Swash Zone (SZ) are trivial for the comprehension of hydro-morphodynamic processes. Several studies have been carried out on the SZ but few literature is still available on the run-up and on SZ flows on beaches protected by Low Crested Structures (LCSs), where flow motion is driven by a combination of low frequency infra-gravity waves and incident waves. In presence of breakwaters, swash incident waves are transmitted through the structure. In the transmission area behind the structures, wave energy is shifted to higher frequencies with respect to the incident wave spectrum and in general its mean period considerably decreases with respect to the incident one. Collecting in situ run-up measurements during storms is essential to understand the SZ processes and properly calibrate their both empirical and numerical models but measuring extreme run-up is difficult, due to the severe sea conditions and due to unexpected nature of storms. The present paper present a numerical and experimental analysis of the wave run-up and of the flow properties on a beach: the study shows the different behavior of unprotected and protected beach, subjected to the same wave conditions. In particular the paper shows that submerged breakwaters reduce in general the run-up height, on the basis of the calibrated 2DV numerical simulations, under extreme wave conditions (TR >50 years), the effect of submerged breakwaters seems to be negligible on the run-up height. Moreover a preliminary empirical equation for run-up with protected beach is proposed

In this paper we make a comparison between the boundary conditions (BCs) derived by Tiersten and the so-called O(h) BCs for elastic surface waves guided by thin films. By a thin layer we here mean a layer for which the thickness is much smaller than the wavelengths involved. The advantage of the O(h) model is that it starts with the general three-dimensional equation of motion and derives the boundary conditions in a rational manner keeping all terms linear in the layer thickness. The Tiersten model is obtained from the approximate equations for low frequency and flexure of thin plates by neglecting the flexural stiffness. We consider straight-crested surface waves under plane-strain conditions, so-called Rayleigh-type waves (P-SV), and Love waves (SH). It is shown that for the Rayleigh type waves the O(h) BCs gives a much better approximation of the exact case than the Tiersten BCs. Even for the Tiersten model including flexural stiffness, the O(h) BCs yields more accurate results. Concerning Love waves both the Tiersten model and O(h) model reduces to the same dispersion relation which quite well approximates the exact solution.

Despite all efforts and massive investments, the restoration of mangroves has not always been successful. One critical reason for this failure is the vulnerability of young mangroves, which cannot grow because of hydrodynamic disturbances in the shallow coastal water. For a comprehensive study bridging ecological and engineering principles, a portable community-based reef is proposed to shield mangroves from waves during the early stages of their growth. A series of field observations were conducted on Amami Oshima Island (Japan), to observe the growth of young mangroves and their survival rate under moderate wave conditions. The evolution of young mangroves was also observed in the laboratory under a controlled indoor environment. At the research site, it was confirmed that, after six months of germination, young mangroves could withstand normal high waves. Laboratory-grown plants were lower in height and had fewer leaves compared with the native mangroves on Amami. Based on these results, an economical reef system was designed. For this purpose, the Ahrens formula for the design of a low-crested reef breakwater was revisited. The results showed that a 50-cm-high reef constructed with 15-kg stones can protect mangroves that are a few months old and effectively promote early mangrove growth.

Mound breakwaters with significant overtopping rates in depth-limited conditions are common in practice due to social concern about the visual impact of coastal structures and sea level rise due to climatic change. For overtopped mound breakwaters, the highest waves pass over the crest producing armor damage, not only to the front slope, but also to the crest and the rear slope. To guarantee the breakwater stability, it is necessary to limit the armor damage in the three parts of the structure: Front slope, crest, and rear slope. This paper describes the hydraulic stability of the armor layer of medium and low-crested structures in wave breaking conditions. Small-scale physical model tests were carried out with different relative crest freeboards and three armor units: Rocks, cubes, and Cubipods. The armor damage progression in the front slope, crest, and rear slope was analyzed using the Virtual Net method to consider the heterogeneous packing and porosity evolution along the armor slope. A comparison is provided between the hydraulic stability of the different armors and their relationship with the measured overtopping volumes.

The present work aims at presenting an approach on implementing appropriate mitigation measures for the upgrade of rubble mound breakwaters protecting harbors and/or marinas against increasing future marine hazards and related escalating exposure to downtime risks. This approach is based on the reliability analysis of the studied structure coupled with economic optimization techniques. It includes the construction of probability distribution functions for all the stochastic variables of the marine climate (waves, storm surges, and sea level rise) for present and future conditions, the suggestion of different mitigation options for upgrading, the construction of a fault tree providing a logical succession of all events that lead to port downtime for each alternative mitigation option, and conclusively, the testing of a large number of possible alternative geometries for each option. A single solution is selected from the total sample of acceptable geometries for each upgrading concept that satisfy a probabilistic constraint in order to minimize the total costs of protection. The upgrading options considered in the present work include the construction or enhancement of a crown wall on the breakwater crest, the addition of the third layer of rocks above the primary armor layer of the breakwater (combined with crest elements), the attachment of a berm on the primary armor layer, and the construction of a detached low-crested structure in front of the breakwater. The proposed methodology is applied to an indicative rubble mound breakwater with an existing superstructure. The construction of a berm on the existing primary armor layer of the studied breakwater (port of Deauville, France), seems to be advantageous in terms of optimized total costs compared to other mitigation options.

The hydraulic stability of single layer, interlocking armour units on low crested and submerged breakwaters was investigated in 2D hydraulic model tests. Displacements of armour units and rocking were monitored and have been applied as indicators for the armour layer stability on the crest, front and rear slope. The effect of freeboard, packing density and wave steepness on the armour layer stability have been investigated. The stability of interlocking concrete armour units on low crested and submerged structures is qualitatively different from rock armour. About 40% to 50% larger armour units are required on the seaward slope and crest of low crested structures (as compared to conventional high crested breakwaters). About 35% larger armour units are required on the rear slope. Larger armour units are not required on submerged breakwaters if the water depth on the crest exceeds 50% of design wave height.

Wave overtopping is a key process in coastal protection. The assessment of the wave overtopping rates is an important aspect in the design of coastal structures. In this paper, the focus is on steep low-crested structures, which include structures with steep slopes up to the limit case with vertical structures, with small relative freeboards up to the case with zero freeboards. This type of structures is of use for coastal protection in the case of sea level rise within climate change process and for overtopping wave energy converters. A literature review of the overtopping knowledge available for steep low-crested structures is carried out, identifying a knowledge gap. To fill this knowledge gap, 2D hydraulic model tests were performed at the wave flume of the Department of Civil Engineering at Ghent University, measuring wave conditions and the overtopping performance. Average and individual wave overtopping were analysed and compared to existing prediction formulae. Inaccuracies in the existing prediction formulae are detected and studied, and enhanced prediction formulae are presented for the average overtopping and the probability distribution of the individual overtopping volumes. The new prediction formulae improve the accuracy of wave overtopping volumes for steep low-crested structures range while maintaining the accuracy for other types of structures. The improved understanding of the overtopping behaviour allows a safer design of coastal structures.

In many countries, the health of the marine ecosystems and the sun-sand-sea tourism depend on the coral reefs, which have been retreating around the world during the last decades. Homogeneous Low-Crested Structures (HLCS), made of large rocks or pre-cast concrete units, can be placed to mimic the functions of beach protection and eventually serve as a refuge for species. HLCS is a type of multi-purpose green infrastructure which is functionally similar to conventional low-crested structures but have higher porosity and are more easily dismantled for re-use. Contrary to conventional low-crested structures, the functionality of HLCS protecting beaches depends on the selected placement grid; this paper describes physical and numerical placement tests on horizontal bottom used to characterize the layers coefficients of Cubipod HLCS. The Bullet Physic Engine (BPE) numerical model used in the gaming industry, which is based on the rigid body method, is calibrated using the physical placement tests. The layer coefficients of Cubipod HLCS measured in the physical placement tests were similar to those obtained with the BPE numerical model, which could be used to optimize placement grids of HLCS on specific sea bottom conditions. Finally, the influence of the placement grid of Cubipod HLCS on the structure height, crest freeboard and wave transmission is analyzed.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/5bi-jpuJYcQ

The coastal structures, such as breakwaters, are constructed to provide the calm basin for ships and to protect the harbor facilities. The adequate design and the evaluation of design parameters are indispensable. The determination of crest height of coastal structures is one of the most important design process among all procedures. The allowable wave overtopping, the relative crest height (Rc/Hs) and the wave transmission could be applied to design the crest height of structures. The previous studies on the wave transmission coefficients were mainly conducted about the low crested structures. The previous design method could not cover the conventional breakwaters with superstructures. In this study, the wave transmission coefficient for rubble mound structures with superstructures would be investigated with hydraulic model tests.

To develop a stability formula for Tetrapods armoring rubble mound breakwaters, sixty hydraulic model tests have been conducted for various wave conditions and slope angles of breakwaters. The test results are used, along with the data of previous researchers, to develop a new stability formula. The developed formula is proven to be applicable to breakwaters with various slope angles with reasonable accuracy. It is also shown to be applicable to low-crested breakwaters and different packing densities, if the corresponding terms are incorporated in the formula. The uncertainty of the proposed formula is also given.

The vulnerability of low-lying reef-fringed atolls to coastal inundation in extreme wave events is of increasing concern in the context of global sea level rise. Wave-induced setup is an important component of wave runup along reef shorelines. We improved a semi-analytical model to investigate wave-induced setup over fringing reefs crested by a shallow reef. Using mass balance and hydraulics, we developed the model based on flow around reef crest kinematics. We proposed a scaling factor to account for flow unsteadiness and reef-crest shape effects. Our solution showed that wave setup on the reef flat is a function of both offshore wave steepness and the wave refection coefficient. Validation of the model by laboratory data shows that the model reproduces the maximum wave-induced setup on the reef flat in the presence of a reef crest with diffident crest widths. Applying the model to experimental data under various reef configurations and wave conditions were also successful. We found that the scaling factor in the model increased with increasing fore-reef slope but was insensitive to variations in reef-crest width. A key requirement for the model to do is that the reef-crest submergence must be small enough or nearly emergent so that an approximate critical flow condition exists.

A numerical study for the effect of crest width, breaking parameter, and trunk permeability on hydrodynamics and flow behavior in the vicinity of rubble-mound, permeable, zero-freeboard breakwaters (ZFBs) is presented. The modified two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations for two-phase flows in porous media with a Smagorinsky model for the subgrid scale stresses were solved numerically. An immersed-boundary/level-set method was used. The numerical model was validated for the cases of wave propagation over a submerged impermeable trapezoidal bar and a low-crested permeable breakwater. Five cases of breakwaters were examined, and the main results are: (a) The size of the crest width, B, does not notably affect the wave reflection, vorticity, and currents in the seaward region of ZFBs, while wave transmission, currents in the leeward side, and mean overtopping discharge all decrease with increasing B. A non-monotonic behavior of the wave setup is also observed. (b) As the breaking parameter decreases, wave reflection, transmission, currents, mean overtopping discharge, and wave setup decrease. This observation is also verified by relevant empirical formulas. (c) As the ZFB trunk permeability decreases, an increase of the wave reflection, currents, wave setup, and a decrease of wave transmission and mean overtopping discharge is observed.

Pebuahan Beach in Jembrana Regency, Bali has experienced severe beach erosion since the construction of the Nusantara Pengambengan fishing port, 10 km east of Pebuahan. Efforts to countermeasure the coastal problem has been carried out by many local residents, but failed due to strong longshore drift. Through a collaboration between the Research Center for Water Resources, the Bali Penida River Basin, and PT. Geotechnical Systemindo, the implementation of low-crested breakwaters (LCB) or PEGAR, made of Woven Geotextile Tubes was initiated. Four woven geotextile tubes C12.9 m with length varied from 20 m to 25 m were installed to form LCB with the length of 60 m, at distance to the coast of 50 m. The monitoring of shoreline changes was conducted over the 3 months after its installation, which shows the formation of a new shoreline with the amount of deposited sand of 185.8 m3. The breaking wave on LCB crest results in successfully controlling the longshore current, hence the longshore drift settles behind the LCB to form a new coastline. It is expected this field study can be treated as an additional input to improve LCB Guideline and to expand LCB effectiveness scope not only apply to shallow wave conditions and beaches such as on North coast of Java, but also can be applied more universally to a deeper coastal waters with high wave conditions.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/AFzvkvYY2Do

Numerical modeling of the rapid dune profile changes that may occur due to wave overtopping and sediment overwash during a storm is challenging. One of the reasons is the limited amount of available field and laboratory data related to the problem. Another reason is the complex interaction of hydrodynamics, morphological changes and sediment transport in the intermittently wet and dry zone of the dune profile. We modified the cross-shore numerical model CSHORE on the basis of three laboratory overwash tests with different dune geometries in front of a low-crested vertical wall to include the capability to predict profile evolution due to wave overtopping and overwash. Experimental results show that the transition from minor to major overwash is fairly rapid and that the resilience of the dune against destruction by wave-induced overwash is dependent on its geometry. Computed results compare well with the measured hydrodynamics, profile changes, wave overtopping rates and sediment overwash rates, requiring only one empirical parameter to be calibrated. Only the erosion in front of the vertical wall in the last phase of each test is not predicted well by the model. Additional comparisons with field data on profile evolution involving overwash verifies the field capabilities of CSHORE.

Understanding the dynamics of sediment transport and erosion-deposition patterns in the locality of a coastal structure is vital to evaluating the performance of coastal structures and predicting the changes in coastal dynamics caused by a specific structure. The nearshore hydro-morphodynamic responses to coastal structures vary widely, as these responses are complex functions with numerous parameters, including structural design, sediment and wave dynamics, angle of approach, slope of the coast and the materials making up the beach and structures. This study investigated the sediment transport and erosion-deposition patterns in the locality of a detached low-crested breakwater protecting the cohesive shore of Carey Island, Malaysia. The data used for this study were collected from field measurements and secondary sources from 2014 to 2015. Sea-bed elevations were monitored every two months starting from December 2014 to October 2015, in order to quantify the sea-bed changes and investigate the erosion-deposition patterns of the cohesive sediment due to the existence of the breakwater. In addition, numerical modelling was also performed to understand the impacts of the breakwater on the nearshore hydrodynamics and investigate the dynamics of fine sediment transport around the breakwater structure. A coupled two-dimensional hydrodynamics-sediment transport model based on Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and cell-centered finite volume method with flexible meshing approach was adopted for this study. Analysis of the results showed that the detached breakwater reduced both current speed and wave height behind the structure by an average of 0.12 m/s and 0.1 m, respectively. Also, the breakwater made it possible for trapped suspended sediment to settle in a sheltered area by approximately 8 cm in height near to the first main segment of the breakwater, from 1 year after its construction. The numerical results were in line with the field measurements, where sediment accumulations were concentrated in the landward area behind the breakwater. In particular, sediment accumulations were concentrated along the main segments of the breakwater structure during the Northeast (NE) season, while concentration near the first main segment of the breakwater were recorded during the Southwest (SW) season. The assessment illustrated that the depositional patterns were influenced strongly by the variations in seasonal hydrodynamic conditions, sediment type, sediment supply and the structural design. Detached breakwaters are rarely considered for cohesive shores; hence, this study provides new, significant benefits for engineers, scientists and coastal management authorities with regard to seasonal dynamic changes affected by a detached breakwater and its performance on a cohesive coast.

Beach erosion, ubiquitous of sandy coasts around the world, can be exacerbated or mitigated with the use of hard engineering solutions including groins. The use of groins has been discouraged in many countries despite its capability to reduce sand losses. This study aims to design a 15 m permeable groin that allows sediment bypassing. Field experiments were conducted on a low-energy, sea-breeze dominated micro-tidal beach at the northern Yucatan peninsula during both mean and extreme wave conditions. Firstly, a short-term experiment consisted in monitoring the structure performance for 24 h during typical sea breeze conditions and the subsequent beach recovery after the structure removal. Secondly, a multi-day (60 days) experiment was conducted to investigate the performance of a single- and double-groin system during both mean and local storm conditions. Beach surveys were conducted to evaluate the beach response. Shoreline variability shows sediment accretion on the east side of the structure during sea breezes, whereas during NNW storm events, the accretion occurred on the west side. Importantly, on a scale of days, sediment bypassing occurs, and hence a net accretion was measured at both sides of the structure. During this time, a second structure was deployed 30 m apart to test the performance of a double-groin system, finding a net shoreline advance at all beach transects. Thus, low-crested short-length permeable groins are found to be a suitable emergency mitigation measure against beach erosion in micro-tidal environments causing moderate shoreline change.

Coral reefs are increasingly recognized for their shoreline protection services. The hydrodynamic performance of this ecosystem is comparable to artificial low-crested structures often used in coastal protection, whose objective is to emulate the former. Coral reefs also provide other important environmental services (e.g., food production, habitat provision, maintenance of biodiversity and social and cultural services) and leave almost no ecological footprint when conservation and restoration actions are conducted to maintain their coastal protection service. However, studies have focused on their flood protection service, but few have evaluated the morphological effects of coral reefs through their ability to avoid or mitigate coastal erosion. In this paper, we investigate the relation between shoreline change, reefs’ geometry and hydrodynamic parameters to elucidate the physics related to how the Mesoamerican Reef in Mexico protects sandy coastlines from erosion. Using numerical wave propagation and historical shoreline change calculated from satellite imagery, a direct correlation was found between shoreline movement, the depths and widths of reef flats, changes in the wave energy flux, and the radiation stresses of breaking waves. The findings indicate that the most remarkable efficacy in preventing beach erosion is due to reefs with shallow crests, wide reef flats, a dissipative lagoon seabed, located at ∼300 m from the coastline. The results provide essential insights for reef restoration projects focused on erosion mitigation and designing artificial reefs in microtidal sandy beaches. Results are limited to wave-dominated coasts.

IntroductionI work at a regional campus of La Trobe University, Australia. More precisely, I work at the Bendigo campus of La Trobe University. At Bendigo, we are often annoyed when referred to and addressed as ‘regional’ students and staff. Really, we should not be. After all, Bendigo campus is an outpost of La Trobe’s metropolitan base. It is funded, run, and directed from Bundoora (Melbourne). The word ‘regional’ simply describes the situation. A region is an “administrative division of a city or a district [… or …] a country” (Brown 2528). And the Latin etymology of region (regio, regere) includes “direction, line”, and “rule” (Kidd 208, 589). Just as the Bendigo campus of La Trobe is a satellite of the metropolitan campus, the town of Bendigo is an outpost of Melbourne. So, when we are addressed and interpellated (Althusser 48) as regional, it is a reminder of the ongoing fact that Australia is (still) a colony, an outpost of empire, a country organised on the colonial model. From central administrative hubs, spokes of communication, and transportation spread to the outposts. When Bendigo students and staff are addressed as regional, in a way we are also being addressed as colonial.In this article, the terms ‘region’ and ‘regional’ are deployed as inextricably associated with the Australian version of colonialism. In Australia, in the central metropolitan hubs, where the colonial project is at its most comprehensive, it is hard to see what remains, to see what has escaped that project. The aim of this article is to explore how different aspects of the country escape the totalising project of Australian colonialism. This exploration is undertaken primarily through a discussion of the ways in which some places on this continent remain not regional (and thus, not colonial) how they keep the metropolis at bay, and how they, thus, keep Europe at bay. This discussion includes a general overview of the Australian colonial project, particularly as it pertains to First Nations Peoples, their knowledge and philosophies, and the continent’s unique ecologies. Then the article becomes more speculative, imagining different ways of seeing and experiencing time and place in this country, ways of seeing the remains and refuges of pre-1788, not-regional, and not-colonial Australia. In these remains and refuges, there persist the flourishing and radical difference of this continent’s ecologies and, not surprisingly, the radical suitedness of tens of thousands of years of First Nations Peoples’ culture and thinking to that ecology, as Country. In what remains not regional, I argue, are answers to the question: How will we live here in the Anthropocene?A Totalising ProjectSince 1788, in the face of the ongoing presence and resistance of First Nations cultures, and the continent’s radically unique ecologies, the Australian colonial project has been to convert the continent into a region of Europe. As such, the imposed political, administrative, scientific, and economic institutions are largely European. This is also so, to a lesser extent, of social and cultural institutions. While the continent is not Europe geologically, the notion of the Anthropocene suggests that this is changing (Crutzen and Stoermer). This article does not resummarise the vast body of scholarship on the effects of colonisation, from genocide to missionary charity, to the creation of bureaucratic and comprador classes, and so on. Suffice to say that the different valences of colonisation—from outright malevolence to misguided benevolence–produce similar and common effects. As such, what we experience in metropolitan and regional Australia, is chillingly similar to what people experience in London. Chilling, because this experience demonstrates how the effects of the project tend towards the total.To clarify, when I use the name ‘Australia’ I understand it as the continent’s European name. When I use the term ‘Europe’ or ‘European’, I refer to both the European continent and to the reach and scope of the various colonial and imperial projects of European nations. I take this approach because I think it is necessary to recognise their global effects and loads. In Australia, this load has been evident and present for more than two centuries. On one hand, it is evident in the social, cultural, and political institutions that come with colonisation. On another, it is evident in the environmental impacts of colonisation: impacts that are severely compounded in Australia. In relation to this, there is vital, ongoing scholarship that explores the fact that, ecologically, Australia is a radically different place, and which discusses the ways in which European scientific, aesthetic, and agricultural assumptions, and the associated naturalised and generic understandings of ‘nature’, have grounded activities that have radically transformed the continent’s biosphere. To name but a few, Tim Flannery (Eaters, “Ecosystems”) and Stephen Pyne, respectively, examine the radical difference of this continent’s ecology, geology, climate, and fire regimes. Sylvia Hallam, Bill Gammage, and Bruce Pascoe (“Bolt”, Emu) explore the relationships of First Nations Peoples with that ecology, climate, and fire before 1788, and the European blindness to the complexity of these relationships. For instance, William Lines quotes the strikingly contradictory observations of the colonial surveyor, Thomas Mitchell, where the land is simultaneously “populous” and “without inhabitants” and “ready for the immediate reception of civilised man” and European pastoralism (Mitchell qtd. in Lines 71). Flannery (Eaters) and Tim Low (Feral, New) discuss the impacts of introduced agricultural practices, exotic animals, and plants. Tom Griffiths tells the story of ‘Improving’ and ‘Acclimatisation Societies’, whose explicit aims were to convert Australian lands into European lands (32–48). The notion of ‘keeping Europe at bay’ is a response to the colonial assumptions, practices, and impositions highlighted by these writers.The project of converting this continent and hundreds of First Nations Countries into a region of Europe, ‘Australia’, is, in ambition, a totalising one. From the strange flag-plantings, invocations and incantations claiming ownership and dominion, to legalistic conceptions such as terra nullius, the aim has been to speak, to declare, to interpellate the country as European. What is not European, must be made European. What cannot be made European is either (un)seen in a way which diminishes or denies its existence, or must be made not to exist. These are difficult things to do: to not see, to unsee, or to eradicate.One of the first acts of administrative division (direction and rule) in the Port Phillip colony (now known as Victoria) was that of designating four regional Aboriginal Protectorates. Edward Stone Parker was appointed Assistant Protector of Aborigines for the Loddon District, a district which persists today for many state and local government instrumentalities as the Loddon-Mallee region. In the 1840s, Parker experienced the difficulty described above, in attempting to ‘make European’ the Dja Dja Wurrung people. As part of Parker’s goal of Christianising Dja Dja Wurrung people, he sought to learn their language. Bain Attwood records his frustration:[Parker] remarked in July 1842. ‘For physical objects and their attributes, the language readily supplies equivalent terms, but for the metaphysical, so far I have been able to discover scarcely any’. A few years later Parker simply despaired that this work of translation could be undertaken. ‘What can be done’, he complained, ‘with a people whose language knows no such terms as holiness, justice, righteousness, sin, guilt, repentance, redemption, pardon, peace, and c., and to whose minds the ideas conveyed by those words are utterly foreign and inexplicable?’ (Attwood 125)The assumption here is that values and concepts that are ‘untranslatable’ into European understandings mark an absence of such value and concept. Such assumptions are evident in attempts to convince, cajole, or coerce First Nations Peoples into abandoning traditional cultural and custodial relationships with Country in favour of individual private property ownership. The desire to maintain relationships with Country are described by conservative political figures such as Tony Abbott as “lifestyle choices” (Medhora), effectively declaring them non-existent. In addition, processes designed to recognise First Nations relationships to Country are procedurally frustrated. Examples of this are the bizarre decisions made in 2018 and 2019 by Nigel Scullion, the then Indigenous Affairs Minister, to fund objections to land claims from funds designated to alleviate Indigenous disadvantage and to refuse to grant land rights claims even when procedural obstacles have been cleared (Allam). In Australia, given that First Nations social, cultural, and political life is seamlessly interwoven with the environment, ecology, the land–Country, and that the colonial project has always been, and still is, a totalising one, it is a project which aims to sever the connections to place of First Nations Peoples. Concomitantly, when the connections cannot be severed, the people must be either converted, dismissed, or erased.This project, no matter how brutal and relentless, however, has not achieved totality.What Remains Not Regional? If colonisation is a totalising project, and regional Australia stands as evidence of this project’s ongoing push, then what remains not regional, or untouched by the colonial? What escapes the administrative, the institutional, the ecological, the incantatory, and the interpellative reach of the regional? I think that despite this reach, there are such remains. The frustration, the anger, and antipathy of Parker, Abbott, and Scullion bear this out. Their project is unfinished and the resistance to it infuriates. I think that, in Australia, the different ways in which pre-1788 modes of life persist are modes of life which can be said to be ‘keeping Europe at bay’.In Reports from a Wild Country: Ethics for Decolonisation, Deborah Bird Rose compares Western/European conceptualisations of time, with those of the people living in the communities around the Victoria River in the Northern Territory. Rose describes Western constructions of time as characterised by disjunction (for example, the ‘birth’ of philosophy, the beginnings of Christianity) and by irreversible sequence (for example, concepts of telos, apocalypse, and progress). These constructions have become so naturalised as to carry a “seemingly commonsensical orientation toward the future” (15). Orientation, in an Australian society “built on destruction, enables regimes of violence to continue their work while claiming the moral ground of making a better future” (15). Such an orientation “enables us to turn our backs on the current social facts of pain, damage, destruction and despair which exist in the present, but which we will only acknowledge as our past” (17).In contrast to this ‘future vision’, Rose describes what she calls the ‘canonical’ time-space conceptualisation of the Victoria River people (55). Here, rather than a temporal extension into an empty future, orientation is towards living, peopled, and grounded origins, with the emphasis on the plural, rather than a single point of origin or disjunction:We here now, meaning we here in a shared present, are distinct from the people of the early days by the fact that they preceded us and made our lives possible. We are the ‘behind mob’—those who come after. The future is the domain of those who come after us. They are referred to as […] those ‘behind us’. (55)By way of illustration, when we walk into a sheep paddock, even if we are going somewhere (even the future), we are also irrevocably walking behind ancestors, predecessor ecologies, previous effects. The paddock, is how it is, after about 65,000 years of occupation, custodianship, and management, after European surveyors, squatters, frontier conflict and violence, the radical transformation of the country, the destruction of the systems that came before. Everything there, as Freya Mathews would put it, is of “the given” (“Becoming” 254, “Old” 127). We are coming up behind. That paddock is the past and present, and what happens next is irrevocably shaped by it. We cannot walk away from it.What remains not regional is there in front of us. Country, language, and knowledge remain in the sheep paddock, coexisting with everyone and everything else that everyone in this country follows (including the colonial and the regional). It is not gone. We have to learn how to see it.By the Fox or the Little EagleFigure 1: A Scatter of Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo Feathers at Wehla. Image Credit: Terry Eyssens.As a way of elaborating on this, I will tell you about a small, eight hectare, patch of land in Dja Dja Wurrung Country. Depending on the day, or the season, or your reason, it could take fifteen minutes to walk from one end to the other or it might take four hours, from the time you start walking, to the time when you get back to where you started. At this place, I found a scatter of White Cockatoo feathers (Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo—Cacatua galerita). There was no body, just the feathers, but it was clear that the Cockatoo had died, had been caught by something, for food. The scatter was beautiful. The feathers, their sulphur highlights, were lying on yellow-brown, creamy, dry grass. I dwelled on the scatter. I looked. I looked around. I walked around. I scanned the horizon and squinted at the sky. And I wondered, what happened.This small patch of land in Dja Dja Wurrung Country is in an area now known as Wehla. In the Dja Dja Wurrung and many other Victorian languages, ‘Wehla’ (and variants of this word) is a name for the Brushtail Possum (Trichosurus vulpecula). In the time I spend there/here, I see all kinds of animals. Of these, two are particularly involved in this story. One is the Fox (Vulpes vulpes), which I usually see just the back of, going away. They are never surprised. They know, or seem to know, where everyone is. They have a trot, a purposeful, cocky trot, whether they are going away because of me or whether they are going somewhere for their own good reasons. Another animal I see often is the Little Eagle (Hieraaetus morphnoides). It is a half to two-thirds the size of a Wedge-tailed Eagle (Aquila audax). It soars impressively. Sometimes I mistake a Little Eagle for a Wedge-tail, until I get a better look and realise that it is not quite that big. I am not sure where the Little Eagle’s nest is but it must be close by.I wondered about this scatter of White Cockatoo feathers. I wondered, was the scatter of White Cockatoo feathers by the Fox or by the Little Eagle? This could be just a cute thought experiment. But I think the question matters because it provokes thinking about what is regional and what remains not regional. The Fox is absolutely imperial. It is introduced and widespread. Low describes it as among Australia’s “greatest agent[s] of extinction” (124). It is part of the colonisation of this place, down to this small patch of land in Dja Dja Wurrung Country. Where the Fox is, colonisation, and everything that goes with it, remains, and maintains. So, that scatter of feathers could be a colonial, regional happening. Or maybe it is something that remains not regional, not colonial. Maybe the scatter is something that escapes the regional. The Little Eagles and the Cockatoos, who were here before colonisation, and their dance (a dance of death for the Cockatoo, a dance of life for the Little Eagle), is maybe something that remains not regional.But, so what if the scatter of White Cockatoo feathers, this few square metres of wind-blown matter, is not regional? Well, if it is ‘not regional’, then, if Australia is to become something other than a colony, we have to look for these things that are not regional, that are not colonial, that are not imperial. Maybe if we start with a scatter of White Cockatoo feathers that was by the Little Eagle, and then build outwards again, we might start to notice more things that are not regional, that still somehow escape. For example, the persistence of First Nations modes of land custodianship and First Nations understandings of time. Then, taking care not to fetishise First Nations philosophies and cultures, take the time and care to recognise the associations of all of those things with simply, the places themselves, like a patch of land in Dja Dja Wurrung Country, which is now known as Wehla. Instead of understanding that place as something that is just part of the former Aboriginal Protectorate of Loddon or of the Loddon Mallee region of Victoria, it is Wehla.The beginning of decolonisation is deregionalisation. Every time we recognise the not regional (which is hopefully, eventually, articulated in a more positive sense than ‘not regional’), and just say something like ‘Wehla’, we can start to keep Europe at bay. Europe’s done enough.seeing and SeeingChina Miéville’s The City and The City (2009) is set in a place, in which the citizens of two cities live. The cities, Besźel and Ul Qoma, occupy the same space, are culturally and politically different. Their relationship to each other is similar to that of border-sharing Cold War states. Citizens of the two cities are forbidden to interact with each other. This prohibition is radically policed. Even though the citizens of Besźel and Ul Qoma live in adjoining buildings, share roads, and walk the same streets, they are forbidden to see each other. The populations of each city grow up learning how to see what is permitted and to not see, or unsee, the forbidden other (14).I think that seeing a scatter of White Cockatoo feathers and wondering if it was by the Fox or by the Little Eagle is akin to the different practices of seeing and not seeing in Besźel and Ul Qoma. The scatter of feathers is regional and colonial and, equally, it is not. Two countries occupy the same space. Australia and a continent with its hundreds of Countries. What remains not regional is what is given and Seen as such. Understanding ourselves as walking behind everything that has gone before us enables this. As such, it is possible to see the scatter of White Cockatoo feathers as by the Fox, as happening in ‘regional Australia’, as thus characterised by around 200 years of carnage, where the success of one species comes at the expense of countless others. On the other hand, it is possible to See the feathers as by the Little Eagles, and as happening on a small patch of land in Dja Dja Wurrung Country, as a dance that has been happening for hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of years. It is a way of keeping Europe at bay.I think these Cockatoo feathers are a form of address. They are capable of interpellating something other than the regional, the colonial, and the imperial. A story of feathers, Foxes, and Little Eagles can remind us of our ‘behindness’, and evoke, and invoke, and exemplify ways of seeing and engaging with where we live that are tens of thousands of years old. This is both an act of the imagination and a practice of Seeing what is really there. 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