Zeitschriftenartikel zum Thema „Factory and trade waste Environmental aspects“

The article analyses the implementation of the principles of environmental self-restoration and dynamic adaptability of trade enterprises. Solving the problems of introducing environmental aspects of sustainable development into the activities of trade enterprises and developing waste disposal methodologies are important tasks for the country's economy. It is offered to develop a methodology (system) of waste processing, which are formed in the process of consumption of commodity-material values in trade. The methodology includes the following factors: cost-effectiveness, social significance of disposal, safety of waste processing, resource saving, environmental reputation. The method includes several stages: analysis of the regulatory framework, the settlement and analytical stage, and the final stage - the assessment of economic efficiency. The main difference between the method and the one developed earlier is in an integrated approach to justifying the creation of a modern waste treatment system in commercial enterprises. The offered method develops the theory of economic and investment analysis, as well as the theory of making management decisions in managing the development of commercial enterprises.

The Water-Energy-Food (WEF) nexus describes the synergies and trade-offs between water, energy and food. Despite the significant attention that the WEF nexus has received in recent years, challenges remain, primarily related to gaps in integrated data, information and knowledge related to the most critical inter-linkages and their dynamics. These WEF nexus complexities and uncertainty make decision-making and future forecasting extremely difficult. Policy makers and other stakeholders are currently faced with the task of understanding longer term environmental impacts and tJhe benefits and limitations of innovations that could be potentially beneficial, such as Anaerobic Digestion as a waste solution or insect protein production. This paper describes an approach to support decision making for local-level innovations within the WEF nexus by creating a set of sustainability indicators and an accompanying interactive visualisation. The indicators were derived from stakeholder consultation processes and workshops, and they were selected to include a much broader assessment than just financial aspects when considering the viability of such innovations. By taking this bottom-up approach and placing stakeholders at the heart of the project, we produced a visualisation tool to support sustainable decision making when considering the implementation of WEF innovations. Considering other, often overlooked factors and giving greater priority to these deepens knowledge and the recognition of influential issues that in conventional processes may be overlooked. This visualisation tool is designed to support decision makers to engage in a exploration of the different interlinkages, and to be the basis of stakeholder dialogue around sustainability. The visualisation tool developed was designed to be easily modifiable in order to be updated with new insights and to include other future innovations.

The analysis of management’s and employees’ perceptions is needed to create strategies and policies on sugar industry waste management based on cleaner production, to reach the concept of cleaner production by reusing, reducing, and recycling waste. The research’s scope is analyzing management’s and employees’ perceptions toward cleaner production principles, that includes Good Housekeeping knowledge aspects, environmental aspect, social-institutional and economical aspects. The aim of the research is to get strategies and policies on sugar industry waste management based on cleaner production, based on management’s and employees’ perceptions toward the application of waste management based on cleaner production at sugar industry. The research was done in Sei Semayang Sugar Factory, Kwala Sugar Factory, and Tjoekir Sugar Factory. Primary data was tested by Alpha Cronbach and Lickert ordinal scale transformed into interval scale using Successive Interval method. To understand the connectivity between variables, multiple linear regression analysis was used, using SPSS 11.5, and then descriptively analyzed. Analyzing Sei Semayang Sugar Factory’s management’s and employees’ perception toward cleaner production results in the knowledge that technical aspect is an influential aspect in factory’s efficiency and waste management. Kwala Madu Sugar Factory management’s and employees’ perception is that environmental aspect, Good Housekeeping aspect, technical aspect, and knowledge aspect, are influential toward sugar industry waste management. While Tjoekir sugar factory management’s and employees’ perception is that social institutional and economical aspect is the influential aspect toward sugar industry waste management. Sugar industry waste management based on cleaner production strategy based on management’s and employees’ perception is an integration between technical aspect, environmental aspect, Good Housekeeping aspect, and social institutional and economical aspect.

The analysis of management’s and employees’ perceptions is needed to create strategies and policies on sugar industry waste management based on cleaner production, to reach the concept of cleaner production by reusing, reducing, and recycling waste. The research’s scope is analyzing management’s and employees’ perceptions toward cleaner production principles, that includes Good Housekeeping knowledge aspects, environmental aspect, social-institutional and economical aspects. The aim of the research is to get strategies and policies on sugar industry waste management based on cleaner production, based on management’s and employees’ perceptions toward the application of waste management based on cleaner production at sugar industry. The research was done in Sei Semayang Sugar Factory, Kwala Sugar Factory, and Tjoekir Sugar Factory. Primary data was tested by Alpha Cronbach and Lickert ordinal scale transformed into interval scale using Successive Interval method. To understand the connectivity between variables, multiple linear regression analysis was used, using SPSS 11.5, and then descriptively analyzed. Analyzing Sei Semayang Sugar Factory’s management’s and employees’ perception toward cleaner production results in the knowledge that technical aspect is an influential aspect in factory’s efficiency and waste management. Kwala Madu Sugar Factory management’s and employees’ perception is that environmental aspect, Good Housekeeping aspect, technical aspect, and knowledge aspect, are influential toward sugar industry waste management. While Tjoekir sugar factory management’s and employees’ perception is that social institutional and economical aspect is the influential aspect toward sugar industry waste management. Sugar industry waste management based on cleaner production strategy based on management’s and employees’ perception is an integration between technical aspect, environmental aspect, Good Housekeeping aspect, and social institutional and economical aspect.

Abstract Food production is connected with a negative effect on the environment as it is linked with the utilisation of natural resources such as fresh water and with the emission of greenhouse gases (GHGs). It is, therefore, very important to prevent the wastage of food at all food chain stages. Special attention should be paid to the phenomena which burden the environment in an unjustified way. One such example may be the waste of final products at the stage of retail sale objects. The purpose of the present paper was to estimate the effect of wasted food in the selected network of the retail sale on the environment with the application of water footprint indicator and CO2 emission. On the grounds of the collected data, the participation of food withdrawn from the trade, the reasons for the mentioned phenomenon and the size of the wasted food products and those donated to charities were established. Based upon such data, the level of CO2 emission and the water print of the products which have not been utilised according to their destination were estimated. In spite of the fact that the animal origin products were characterised by a small participation in the weight of the unsold food (ca. 13.34% annually), they constituted the main source of CO2 emission and water footprint estimated from the food waste. It was calculated that the annual turnover and waste of the products only in one trade network was connected with the unjustified emission of ca. 12 thousand tonnes of CO2 and 13 million m3 of water footprint.

Tofu Industry Java Trading Business is an industrial factory engaged in food production that produces tofu. This industry was founded in 2009 which started with his two children who already had experience working in the tofu factory industry not far from their homes. This type of research is normative juridical namely the type of research conducted by studying written regulations so that this research is very closely related to the library. The results of the study are the level of danger from the liquid waste of tofu factory in the tofu trade business Java is not managed properly is damage to the quality of the environment, especially waters as one of the needs of humanity and other living things. Factors that caused the management of liquid waste did not go well according to Law number 32 of 2009, namely the ignorance of the entrepreneurs themselves, factors of education level, economic factors of entrepreneurs, government participation and law enforcement, factors of the role of the community and the role of the community in manage the environment. The legal consequences of these actions are written reprimands, government coercion, freezing of environmental permits, revocation of environmental permits.

Abstract This paper discusses the development of short fibre frame clips and system brackets made from recycling CF/LMPAEK factory waste composites employing two technologies (injection molding and 3D-printing). The project will develop and validate fused deposition modeling (FDM) as cost-efficient process to manufacture system brackets using the novel formulation of recycled composite as raw material. Energy directors development for ultrasonic welding is presented for successful joining of the clips to the fuselage, avoiding fasteners. The manufactured parts will be assembled into the lower half of the multifunctional fuselage demonstrator. The results were developed within ECO-CLIP project, which aims to: (1) assess technical aspects of material recyclability and (2) assess the economic and environmental validity of the technology.

This paper will explore Semen Padang’s various contributions to nationwide COVID-19 impact mitigation efforts, bringing together the company’s operational aspects while still paying close attention to the conservation of its surrounding areas, as well as the empowerment of local communities devastated by the pandemic. In its environmental management aspects, the company has shifted from using non-renewable fuel to renewable ones by utilizing agro-industrial waste. In the social aspects, the company still goes ahead with its development of an ecotourism ecosystem to make sure community to sustain their welfare. From all the efforts mentioned above, the company has been able to manage COVID-19-related waste, while boosting energy efficiency, reducing its toxic and hazardous waste, utilizing filter bags containing its toxic and hazardous waste, reducing its particulate emission, boosting water use efficiency in its Indarung factory, conserving the germ plasm of the Bilih fish species, as well as the empowerment of communities living in the vicinity of ecotourism area, in the Lambung Bukit area. When the COVID-19 pandemic escalated in Indonesia, Semen Padang was at the forefront of medical waste management from pandemic-spreading activities while also maintaining cement production operations for the needs of sustainable national development.

This paper will examine the environmental issues that currently affect this relationship, as well as the potential effect of free trade. Section I examines the current problems in the border area, including the maquiladora industry and its impact on these concerns. Section II addresses the environmental regulatory schemes of the United States and Mexico and what current laws might contribute possible solutions to the environmental problems presented by NAFTA. Then, Section III discusses existing international environmental accords, such as the Integrated Border Environmental Plan. Section IV describes and critiques the environmental aspects of NAFTA. Finally, Section V addresses ways to minimize and resolve environmental disputes in order to expedite cleanup.

Around 6 million tonnes of edible food are being wasted (post-farm gate) in the UK each year. This fraction of edible wasted food is known as avoidable food waste. In a circular economy food is a valuable resource that must be captured at all stages of the food supply chain and, where possible, redistributed for consumption. This can prevent avoidable food waste generation, and dissipation of food’s multidimensional value that spans environmental, economic, social, technical and political/organisational impacts. While the importance and benefits of surplus food redistribution have been well documented in the global literature, there are still barriers that prevent perfectly edible food from being wasted. This study looks at the main stages of the food supply chain, and amasses the opportunities, challenges and trade-offs associated with surplus food redistribution to the UK economy. It highlights points in the food system where interventions can be made, to improve food’s circularity and sustainability potential. Stakeholder interrelations, regulatory and socio-economic aspects are discussed in relation to their influence on decreasing avoidable food waste. The main output from this work is a diagrammatic depiction of where challenges and trade-offs occur along the food supply chain, and how policy and socio-economic reforms are needed to maximise avoidable food waste prevention, and the surplus avoidable food redistribution in the food supply chain for social benefit.

The article explores some of the connections between science and agribusiness in the history of pig factory farming in Ontario, Canada, between the 1950s and the present. The factory farm model of pig production submits animals to a very artificial way of life, which would not be possible without the inputs of scientific and technological innovations of the 20th century. Topics discussed include the use of antibiotics, swine nutrition, feed conversion (in)efficiency, and pork promotion and consumption. The primary sources utilized are a trade magazine, a census of agriculture, and other government and industry publications. The article sheds light on how notions such as “progress”, “improvement”, “modern” or “efficiency”, frequently used by scientists when referring to results of pig production, are restricted to narrow or internal considerations of the industry that, in turn, can be challenged by broader analysis of aspects (social, economic, environmental) of the food system. Scientists have not just produced scientific knowledge but in some cases have also promoted ideologies about animals and the food system. These ideologies of “progress”, “improvement”, “modern” or “efficiency”, as in the context of pig production in Ontario, only make sense if we understand the particular historical moment in the analysis, which since the 1950s has markedly been one of strong agribusiness interventionism.

Introduction. Global circular trade involves countries that specialize in exporting goods in which they have a comparative advantage and import other goods from their trading partners. This process of international exchange requires the transportation of goods from the country of production to the country of consumption. Therefore, the expansion of international trade is likely to increase the use of transport. It is confirmed that the leading countries in the export-import of waste in various industries are at the same time components of circular core, around which circular value chains are formed. The aim is to do a systematic analysis of the spatial-component structure of trade in waste and scrap and to identify leading countries, development priorities in industries (pharmaceuticals, clinical, household, rubber waste, polymers, silk and cotton waste). Results. The paper analyzes the spatial-component structure of trade in waste and scrap and identifies the leading countries, development priorities in the industries (pharmacy, clinical, household, rubber waste, polymers, silk and cotton waste). The main problematic aspects are illegal waste trade and growing smuggling, which cause serious negative social consequences and actualize the inclusive component in substantiating the paradigm of the global inclusive circular economy. It has been investigated that waste reduction combined with prudent use of resources has the potential to address the gap due to natural resource scarcity and global growing population or consumption. It is substantiated that the formation of circular trade will contribute to: the definition of priority materials for trade and the required level of processing capacity; harmonization of material quality standards; promoting the demand for used goods and secondary raw materials; removing unnecessary regulatory barriers and avoiding environmentally harmful activities such as non-compliance, poorly regulated nature and informal recovery. Perspectives. Further research on international waste trade in the sectoral-spatial dimension will need to be continued in the context of the environmental and economic impacts of COVID-19, which diversifies and increases the amount of medical waste.

Valorisation of components from municipal ‘waste’ water and sewage sludge gets more and more attention in order to come to a circular economy by developing an efficient ‘waste’ to value concept. On behalf of the transition team ‘Grondstoffenfabriek’ (‘Resource factory’) a preliminary research was performed for all the Dutch water boards to assess the technical and economical feasibility of poly-hydroxy-alkanoate (PHA)-production from sewage sludge, a valuable product to produce bio-plastics. This study reveals that the production of bio-plastics from sewage sludge is feasible based on technical aspects, but not yet economically interesting, even though the selling price is relatively close to the actual PHA market price. (Selling price is in this particular case the indicative cost effective selling price. The cost effective selling price covers only the total production costs of the product.) Future process optimization (maximizing the volatile fatty acids production, PHA storage capacity, etc.) and market developments are needed and will result in cost reductions of the various sub-processes. PHA-production from sewage sludge at this stage is just a technology; every further research is needed to incorporate the backward integration approach, taking into account the market demand including associated product quality aspects.

This article investigates how consumers perceive the trade-offs involved in sustainable consumption. It consists of an exploratory field study, with a qualitative approach, in which 9 consumers who declared themselves adept at sustainable consumption were interviewed. Most of the interviewees were aware that there are trade-offs involved in this consumption. Nevertheless, it was observed that they tend to simplify the concepts addressed, emphasizing the environmental aspect, in particular, the disposal of waste. This trend is reflected in consumption practices, which are highly focused on reuse to the detriment of other aspects of sustainability such as saving resources and non-consumption.

Spatial decisions increasingly are made by both professional and citizen stakeholders using interactive maps, yet few empirically-derived guidelines exist for designing interactive maps that support complex reasoning and decision making across problem contexts. We address this gap through an online map study with 122 participants with varying expertise. The study required participants to assume two hypothetical scenarios in the North American hazardous waste trade, review geographic information on environmental justice impacts using a different interactive map for each scenario, and arrive at an optimal decision outcome. This study followed a 2 × 2 factorial design, varying interface complexity (the number of supported interaction operators) and decision complexity (the number of decision criteria) as the independent variables and controlling for participant expertise with the hazardous waste trade and other aspects of cartographic design. Our findings indicate that interface complexity, not decision complexity, influenced decision outcomes, with participants arriving at better decisions using the simpler interface. However, expertise was a moderating effect, with experts and non-experts using different interaction strategies to arrive at their decisions. The research contributes to cartography, geovisualization, spatial decision science, urban planning, and visual analytics as well as to scholarship on environmental justice, the geography of hazardous waste, and participatory mapping.

Monitoring the quantity and quality of metals in lake water is a major part of assessing water toxicity. A fundamental aspect of geochemical monitoring studies is the evaluation of the equilibrium distribution of metal speciation in water and the influence of environmental conditions on this process. It is important to understand the difference between the behavior of nanoparticles, dissolved particles, colloid particles, and suspended particles. This study involved environmental aquatic chemistry research and the assessment of the geochemical processes of metal speciation in an arctic lake in the metallurgical waste zone and other areas where natural processes prevail. Consecutive and parallel membrane filtration methods were used to compare the results of water analysis in Imandra Lake. The membrane pore sizes were 8, 1.2, 0.45, and 0.2 µm. The following filtrate characteristics were used: microfiltration-based mechanical suspension and oxidized contaminants (>8, 1.2, 0.45, 0.2, 0.1 μm), and ultrafiltration-based colloids, bacteria, viruses, etc. (less than 0.1 μm). Industrial effluents led to the formation of higher concentrations of elements (Ni, Cu, and Pb) in their labile forms. In the wastewater-mixing zone, the concentrations of most elements were evenly distributed in depth. In more distant areas, we found a significant increase in the concentration of elements in the near-bottom horizon in comparison with the surface water (Fe by more than three times). The obtained results showed that numerous elements had diverse distributions by speciation in the points located closer to the source of wastewater. This indicated the significant influence of the adsorption process on the system balance of elements such as Fe, Cu, and rare earth elements. The impact of the regional geochemical and anthropogenic speciation and the possible influence of climatic factors on the distribution of speciation were determined.

Abstract Many cities are undergoing urban heat challenges because of heat waves and urban heat islands (UHIs). During urban planning and design, properly adding cooling interventions, namely urban heat mitigation strategies, into cities and communities are essential to address urban heat challenges. However, cities are required to provide a variety of functions (e.g., buildings, transportation, park) and meet the requirements convenience, safety, health, comfort and wellbeing. Such functions and requirements result in some co-benefits, conflicts and trade-offs, promoting and constraining the application of urban heat mitigation strategies. However, the possible co-benefits, conflicts and trade-offs have not been well documented, where the improper use of cooling strategies may lead to unintended consequences. Therefore, it is essential to understand the co-benefits, conflicts and trade-offs of different cooling interventions. In particular, this study aims to develop an analytical framework for the analysis of the co-benefits, conflicts and trade-offs of different mitigation techniques. Mitigation techniques considered includes four clusters such as green infrastructure, blue infrastructure, white/grey infrastructure and urban design. The scope of urban functions and requirements, related to urban lives and urban operation, in ten aspects including economy, policy, ecology, environment, technology, space, urban beauty, practicality, culture, and transportation. The analytical framework was further applied to analyze the co-benefits, conflicts and trade-offs of cooling strategies in ten aspects of urban functions. Furthermore, it was used in environmental functions (e.g. local temperature regulation, stormwater regulation, waste treatment, air quality regulation, pollination, and recreation & aesthetic appreciation) and space functions (e.g. activity venue/entertainment venue, neighborhood vitality, resident satisfaction, space utilization and city identity), respectively. The results reveal that green infrastructure can provide the most aspects of benefits in ten aspects, and also in environmental and space aspect. Green infrastructure was followed by blue infrastructure, urban design and then white/grey infrastructure. Overall, the analytical framework offers a new perspective of the feasibility analysis of urban heat mitigation strategy and provides a reference for urban planners and designers to select proper urban heat mitigation techniques, with possible additional benefits of addressing other urban challenges.

Abstract Municipal solid waste (MSW) management has emerged as one of the major environmental challenges globally. The consequences of inappropriate waste management are manifold and the trend would continue if immediate interventions are not taken for its reversion amid rapid urbanization and current consumption patterns of individuals. The concept of circular economy (CE) can contribute to a paradigm shift in the transformation of the traditional linear approach that does not favour reuse, recycle, recovery concept. Modern and proven waste management practices with collection systems, recycling facilities, sanitary landfills, and waste-to-energy (WtE) and nutrient recovery offer opportunities to improve urban environment through the valorization of waste and by-products in a CE. This study scrutinizes the existing literature on the assessment of circularity and helps to develop a unified circularity framework in the management of MSW in cities. Key aspects such as tools for measuring circularity, nexus and trade-offs, and conditions in promoting CE are discussed. Finally, this paper elucidates the need for circularity, including enablers and inhibitors for promoting circularity in the management of MSW with a case study in the city of Curitiba, Brazil.

Plastic is a versatile material that has contributed to numerous product innovations and convenience in everyday life. However, plastic production is growing at an alarming rate, and so has the generation of plastic waste. Unsound waste management results in plastic leakage to the environment with multiple adverse effects to ecosystems. Incineration of plastic waste produces excessive greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, while plastic as a material is consumed and cannot be used again as a resource within a circular economy framework. For this reason, the European Union (EU) takes measures to increase plastic recycling, introducing higher targets for recycling in its revised waste legislation. Sweden follows suit, prioritising actions for improving the management of plastic waste. In this contribution, three scenarios of future plastic waste management are analysed for their sustainability impacts by 2030. The analysis is enabled by a plastic waste management flow model that calculates environmental, economic, and social impacts. The indicators used in the model to describe the impacts in each axis of sustainability are (1) GHG emissions, (2) monetary costs and benefits, and (3) number of jobs created. The results indicate several trade-offs between the different scenarios and between the different sustainability aspects of future plastic waste management, with their strengths and weaknesses duly discussed. Concluding, the most promising and sustainable future scenario for plastic waste management in Sweden includes high targets for recycling—in line with EU targets—and a gradual phase-out of plastic incineration as a waste management option.

Denpasar City is the center of government, population center, tourism center, trade center, economic activity and center for other activities so you can imagine how busy Denpasar City is in handling all aspects of people's increasingly complex life. An incident that looks easy but few people care about, one of which is waste, so many effects can be obtained from disposing of the residual use of fragrances and screen printing, which are often found, but without a clear response to allow the accumulation of waste. Even though the government has regulations and sanctions related to these problems, they are often ignored by owners or entrepreneurs engaged in screen printing. Environmental pollution, which has often occurred since a long time ago, is a community disease that is difficult to eliminate. The researcher has a problem formulation covering 1) How is the legal arrangement regarding criminal acts against environmental pollution by screen printing and dyeing waste in Denpasar City? 2) What are the criminal sanctions against the perpetrators of criminal acts of environmental pollution by screen printing and dyeing waste in Denpasar City? The research was carried out by reviewing books on law and not deviating from the problems studied and the current positive law as well as studies in the library, this research is often called normative research. The results of this study state that criminal sanctions against perpetrators of environmental pollution by screen printing and dyeing waste in Denpasar City are in the form of fines and imprisonment. The act of environmental pollution carried out by NHY by disposing of screen printing waste into the river has violated Article 58 paragraph (2) of the Regional Regulation on the City of Denpasar Number 1 of 2015.

Food waste is a significant environmental, economic, and social issue. In many cases, packaging protects food and prolongs its shelf life, reducing the overall environmental impact by reducing food waste. This research focuses on consumer perceptions of the role of packaging and on-pack labelling in reducing household food waste. The following research questions provided the framework for the study: (1) could packaging play a role in decreasing food waste; (2) what are labelling and packaging designs’ impacts on consumer decision-making about food waste? This research draws on two qualitative studies. Study One focuses on journey mapping—following food waste throughout the consumer’s engagement with food ‘journey’ from planning to disposal. Study Two comprises a series of in-depth interviews in consumers’ homes focusing on how consumers engage with food packaging and food waste. Results indicate that there are at least two streams of consumer perceptions to consider when determining the relationship between food packaging and reducing food waste: the first is how practically useful packaging is for consumer needs; the second is consumers’ perceptions about food packaging itself. There are tensions and trade-offs between these two sets of considerations. The results of the studies show consumers are unlikely to consider food packaging or reducing food waste as a primary motivation in their food purchasing decisions. The studies also show reducing packaging, including plastic packaging, is seen as more important than reducing food waste. Our results also highlight important elements to consider when designing food packaging. These results suggest that a fundamental review is needed for many aspects of packaging and storage information and that this review should account for consumers’ information needs at different points: purchase, storage, during consumption, and between instances of consumption. Furthermore, our results suggest packaging designs that provide clear information and instructions for consumers to reduce food waste are needed.

One of the most important aspects of supply chain management (SCM) is the recovery network (RN), which covers all activities associated with return products (such as collection, recovery, repair, recycling, and waste disposal). Our goal in this paper is to provide a new mathematical model of sustainable end-of-life management (SEOLM) during the COVID-19 pandemic for readers. The suggested recovery network model (RNM) can explain the trade-offs between economic (minimizing total costs), environmental (minimizing bad environmental impacts), and social (minimizing bad social impacts) aspects during the pandemic and the great lockdown. A new RN can be designed with a sustainable and hygienic design when taking environmental, economic, and social considerations into account. It proposes guidelines for managers and scholars on how to address recovery network design (RND) challenges during the pandemic through a mathematical article with a sustainable approach. The scalarization approach of a multi-objective mixed-integer programming (MOMIP) problem in this paper is the weighted sum method. The validation of the presented model and the related Pareto frontier has been illustrated by a case study and numerical example. To perform the optimization process, Lingo software is used.

Due to increasingly stringent legal requirements and escalating environmental control costs, chemical industries have paid close attention to sustainable development without compromising their economic performance. Thus, chemical industries are in need of systematic tools to conduct sustainability assessments of their process/plant design. In order to avoid making costly retrofits at later stages, assessments during the preliminary design stage should be performed. In this paper, a systematic framework is presented for chemical processes at the preliminary design stage. Gross profit, Health Quotient Index (HQI), Inherent Safety Index (ISI) and the Waste Reduction (WAR) algorithm are used to assess the economic performance, health, safety and environmental impact of the process, respectively. The fuzzy optimization approach is used to analyse the trade-off among the four aspects simultaneously, as they often conflict with each other. Deviation between the solution obtained from mathematical optimization model and process simulator is determined to ensure the validity of the model. To demonstrate the proposed framework, a case study on 1, 4-butanediol production is presented.

Purpose Responding to natural resource depletion and carbon dioxide (CO2) emission problems, and also the stricter government’s energy regulations, the purpose of this paper is to develop a sustainable waste heat recovery optimal-profit-oriented management model especially targeting on the easily forgotten low- and medium-temperature waste heat in the industry. In the paper, a system is constructed to facilitate converting the low- and medium-grade waste heat in factories into electricity, and yields optimal profit. Design/methodology/approach This paper integrates an efficient Organic Rankine Cycle (ORC) system from both sustainable energy reservation and cost effectiveness approaches with an optimization model that adopts particle swarm optimization (PSO) algorithm to determine proper installation locations and feasible generator sets. The system is constructed to facilitate converting the low- and medium-grade waste heat in factories into electricity, and yields optimal profit. The model considers the environmental factors: temperature, heat amount, equipment configuration of the number of ORC sets, and detailed investment cost constraints. Findings The results show that annual investment return rate, annual increase in electricity, power generation efficiency, and annual CO2 emission reduction are all highly improved, and investment recovery period is shortened. Also, the larger scale of the waste heat emission, the better the performance is achieved. Finally, the study also completes a sensitivity test under dynamic conditions of electricity price, generator sales price and factory budget constraints, and the results are consistently robust. More valuably, this paper demonstrates applications on two different manufacturing industries with various waste heat emission scales to prove the accountability. Originality/value The main contributions are in three aspects. First, it proves that applying PSO to a nonlinear mathematical model can help determine the optimal number and style configuration of generators for waste heat sources. Second, different from the prior research works focusing on power generation, this paper also deliberates the cost factors, cost of generators, costs of numerous peripheral components and future maintenance costs to ensure the factories not conflict with the financial limitations. Third, it is not only successfully applied in two industries with different scales, but also robust with various economic tests, electricity price change, generator sales price change, and investment budget adjustments.

For centuries, ports have functioned as an economic engine, facilitating maritime transport, offering prosperity and social development to the host communities. Ports are gateways for international trade playing a vital role in the world economy, but it is not excluded that port operations can also have adverse effects on the environment. Air and water emissions, marine sediments, noise, waste generation, loss and degradation of terrestrial habitats and changes to marine ecosystems are just some of the leading environmental challenges with port’s operations. Environmental management within port operations has been a rapidly growing trend, with many ports around the world adopting different types of approaches and initiatives to improve ecological performance. Despite that many ports around the world have implemented greening strategies for growth and sustainable development, there are still many other ports that work less than they should do on environmental aspects and on the generation of ‘green ports’. These latter have fallen behind in the development of the theme. Therefore, the work reported here aims at analyzing what the best way to act should be, even starting from the beginning for a port that is not very innovative, in order to pursue the practical and theoretical levels of ‘green port’.

Given that the pressure of climate change action on companies is increasing, it is recommended to measure the improvement of mitigation activities in terms of GHG emissions. This paper aims to highlight the still-open aspects that characterise simplified GHG accounting tools, starting from the outcomes of a case study. This study was performed using a simplified Italian software for the CO2 eq accounting of composting and anaerobic digestion, two mitigation activities that contribute an important share of global GHG emissions reduction. The tool is based on the life-cycle thinking approach. It has been applied to an Italian company that treats the organic fraction of municipal solid waste. The tool analysis has made it possible to stress several issues that are currently the object of debate in the literature, for example, the trade-off between the flexibility of the software and its user friendliness or the multifunctionality issues and their different interpretations. However, focusing on just one impact category, i.e., climate change, may lead to an incomplete picture of the overall environmental performance of the process analysed. Therefore, this tool could be improved by including other impact categories, such as eutrophication and acidification, which may be affected by the studied activities.

The issue of the future legal regulation of environmental protection during the negotiations on the with- drawal of the United Kingdom from the European Union was one of the most controversial. As is well known, the regulation of environmental protection and climate change, as well as the policy of the EU Member States in this area, belong to the so-called joint competence of the EU and the Member States. The EU, through well-developed environmental legislation, is currently regulating such areas of public relations as nature, bio- diversity, waste and waste recycling, and so on. Environmental quality, clean air and water, healthy flora and fauna in modern conditions can only be ensured through cross-border cooperation, and EU legal standards promote the development of new technologies and businesses. Investors in companies involved in renewable energy and clean technologies, as well as waste and recycling, have faced some difficulties in reviewing EU national legislation during the transition period. The formation of new standards, despite the preservation of certain union rules, is gradual. As a result, Britain’s withdrawal from the EU has inevitably affected to some extent all aspects of its environmental policy, as well as the quality of life of Britons. Undoubtedly, the United Kingdom will continue to pursue trade relations with the European Union but may want to lower radical national environmental standards, which in turn will give the country a competitive advantage over the EU. This article examines the legal and political considerations behind Brexit in light of the United Kingdom’s international commitments to the environment, including climate change. The authors argue that deregulation pressure calls into question the realization of the British dream of a «greener» state after Brexit.

Grocery retailers are in a dilemma. They often prioritize availability over other aspects due to strong competition in this sector and the imperative of realizing sales. The target for many grocery retailers has been high on-shelf availability and large variety to increase customer satisfaction. However, this policy contributes to a significant share of overstock. The economic pressure of unsold products, the environmental impact of wasted resources, and the ethical questions arising from discarding edible food, have increasingly thrown the spotlight on grocery retailers to change their strategies. Grocery retailers are thus facing a trade-off between increasing attractiveness via high availability on the one hand, and the environmental, social, and financial impacts of overstock, on the other. One common practice in dealing with overstock is mainly being reactive to mitigate the impact, using initiatives such as price promotions or donations. This explorative study investigates options for how grocery retailers can proactively reduce food waste via better planning of their store operations. Seven case companies participated in this qualitative study, where we focused on ultra-fresh products as the most important waste category. Face-to-face interviews with managers were the primary source for data collection. The heterogeneity of our sample enabled us to build a common understanding of proactive options to reduce food waste with enhanced operations. The analysis reveals six coherent and distinct topics. A basis for all proactive operational planning processes is (1) the use of a comprehensive database and information systems. This builds the foundation for (2) tailored demand forecasts related to perishable product-specific requirements. Subsequently, consideration is needed of (3) the enhanced planning of assortment sizes, (4) the definitions of differentiated service levels and (5) the tailored ordering and replenishment processes that impact food waste. Finally, (6) salvage options, such as dynamic pricing, secondary usage, and sustainable waste streams constitute valuable mitigation strategies. We formulated 15 propositions that could support the decisions of grocery retailers developing proactive food waste reduction practices. These propositions will guide future research, as they provide a coherent and cohesive picture of related topics in grocery retail operations.

The Kaliyasa River is a vital means for fishermen, especially traditional fishermen who live around the river. Since the construction of the Cilacap Fishing Port, many migrants started to settle and overtime the population crowded the area uncontrollably and marginalized. This study focused on the strategy of reorganizing fishermen’s settlements with a sustainable development and waterfront development approach as well as the regulation of PERMEN no. 28 of 2015, Descriptive-qualitative method has being used to explain the conditions in the study area, The data collection using desk study and field study methods, from the findings confirmed by the theory of waterfront and sustainable development in order to obtain the right reorganizing strategy. The result of this research is a settlement reorganizing strategy that applies the principle of waterfront development. This principle is applied through social aspects by creating open public spaces, piers placement, and public counseling about river border regulations. Environmental aspects with the arrangement of trash bins on the banks of the river as well as the establishment of waste management institution, management of green open spaces, and solution for illegal buildings in river bank areas. Economic aspects by improving dock infrastructure to support fishing activities, as well as reorganizing marine product trade zone. The preservation aspect aims to preserve the identity of the Kaliyasa river as water transportation route and fishermen's settlements.

AbstractSince the early 1980s different organisations have tried to enact international instruments to control international waste trade. The Basel Convention on the Control of Transboundary Movements of Hazardous Wastes and Their Disposal was adopted in 1989 under the auspices of UNEP in order to protect human health and the environment against the adverse effects which may result from the management of waste involved in transboundary movements of hazardous waste and its disposal. The Basel Convention has evolved significantly in eight years-whereas only 35 states and the EC signed the Convention at the time of its adoption, more than 113 states have ratified it as to August 1997. Several other instruments have been developed under the Basel Convention influence. Among those treaties that have been adopted, two deserve special attention. First, the Bamako Convention on the Ban of the Import into Africa and the Control of Transboundary Movement and Management of Hazardous Wastes within Africa adopted in 1991 under the auspices of OAU. Second, the Fourth Lomé Convention adopted by the EC and its member states and 69 African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP) states. The first part of this article is devoted to a comparative analysis of those three Conventions. The second part of this article gives an objective analysis of the substantive regulation of the Izmir Protocol while criticising diverse aspects and proposing alternatives in view of the conventions treated in the preceding part.

The short-term impact of biomass combustion fly ashes (BAs) fertilization on the spring rape growth, essential and trace elements accumulation in seeds, and selected soil and soil solution properties were analyzed in a pot experiment study. The pot experiment was carried out in the growing season (April–August) during the year 2018. The effect of BAs on the dry matter content in spring rape plants and the relative content of chlorophyll in leaves (SPAD) was analyzed. In addition, the effect of BAs on the accumulation of essential and trace elements in the seeds of this plant was analyzed. The impact of BAs on the basic physicochemical properties of soils was also assessed. Additionally, the solubility of compounds contained in BAs was monitored on the basis of the analysis of the changes in the physicochemical properties of soil solution during the experiment period. The present study demonstrated a positive effect of BAs fertilization on plant growth and development and improvement of soil physicochemical properties. A change has been achieved in the soil reaction class from a slightly acidic (control, NPK) to neutral (D1-D6), with the highest increase in pH induced by the highest ash dose of 3 mg ha−1 (D6). It was shown that BAs contributed to a significant increase in the content of macroelements than trace elements in the analyzed soil. In turn, the accumulation of these elements in plant seeds exhibited an inverse relationship, which was mainly influenced by the soil pH and the content of N, Ca, Mg, K, and Na in the soil, as indicated by the correlation coefficients. The highest contents of Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, Cr, and Ni were detected in the seeds of plants fertilized with BAs at a dose of 2.0 Mg ha−1 (D4), and their respective values were 263, 363, 107, 51, 1835, and 137% higher than in the control. The Ca, Mg, S, and Na compounds introduced with BAs exhibited high solubility, as evidenced by the higher concentration of Ca2+, Mg2+, Na+, and SO42− ions in the soil solutions and the dynamic changes in pH and EC observed during the experiment. The lowest solubility after the application of BAs was exhibited by N and P. The conducted PCA analysis to a large extent explained the variability between the applied fertilization and the factors analyzed in the experiment. Despite the positive impact of ashes, attention should be paid to the potential risks associated with their use. The use of higher doses of BAs may result in excessive alkalization and salinity of soils and may enhance the accumulation of trace elements in plants. These aspects should therefore be closely monitored, especially in the case of a long-term application of these wastes, in order to avoid serious environmental problems.

ABSTRACT Preservation of mangroves, a very significant ecosystem from a social, economic, and environmental viewpoint, requires knowledge on soil composition, genesis, morphology, and classification. These aspects are of paramount importance to understand the dynamics of sustainability and preservation of this natural resource. In this study mangrove soils in the Subaé river basin were described and classified and inorganic waste concentrations evaluated. Seven pedons of mangrove soil were chosen, five under fluvial influence and two under marine influence and analyzed for morphology. Samples of horizons and layers were collected for physical and chemical analyses, including heavy metals (Pb, Cd, Mn, Zn, and Fe). The moist soils were suboxidic, with Eh values below 350 mV. The pH level of the pedons under fluvial influence ranged from moderately acid to alkaline, while the pH in pedons under marine influence was around 7.0 throughout the profile. The concentration of cations in the sorting complex for all pedons, independent of fluvial or marine influence, indicated the following order: Na+>Mg2+>Ca2+>K+. Mangrove soils from the Subaé river basin under fluvial and marine influence had different morphological, physical, and chemical characteristics. The highest Pb and Cd concentrations were found in the pedons under fluvial influence, perhaps due to their closeness to the mining company Plumbum, while the concentrations in pedon P7 were lowest, due to greater distance from the factory. For containing at least one metal above the reference levels established by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (United States Environmental Protection Agency), the pedons were classified as potentially toxic. The soils were classified as Gleissolos Tiomórficos Órticos (sálicos) sódico neofluvissólico in according to the Brazilian Soil Classification System, indicating potential toxicity and very poor drainage, except for pedon P7, which was classified in the same subgroup as the others, but different in that the metal concentrations met acceptable standards.

‘Wholesome Nutrition’ is a concept of sustainable nutrition that was developed at the University of Giessen in the 1980s. In this concept, health and the ecologic, economic, social and cultural dimensions of nutrition are equally important. In 1992 at the UN-Conference on Environment and Development in Rio de Janeiro the definition of ‘Sustainable Development’ comprised the dimensions environment, economy and society. Additionally to these three ‘classical’ dimensions of sustainability, we included ‘health’ as the fourth dimension because nutrition has far reaching effects on human health. The fifth dimension, ‘culture’, became part of the sustainability dialogue since many years; the respective cultural background influences food habits. Presently, mankind has to cope with huge global challenges such as poverty and food insecurity in low-income countries as well as climate change. Therefore the objective is to identify prospects for actions to respond to these global challenges. The concept of ‘Sustainable Nutrition’ analyses the food supply chain at all stages from input-production and primary production to processing, distribution, preparation, consumption and waste disposal. The present analysis leads to the following seven principles: preference of plant-based foods, organic foods, regional and seasonal products, preference of minimally processed foods, Fair Trade products, resource-saving housekeeping and enjoyable eating culture. This concept is based on holistic thinking and has the potential to reduce the global challenges in the field of nutrition. Scientists, stakeholders, multipliers and consumers are asked to consider environmental, economic, social and cultural aspects in addition to the biological (health) aspects.

ABSTRACT Background To improve the sustainability performance of food systems, both consumption- and production-side changes are needed. Objectives To this end, we assessed multiple sustainability impacts of 6 consumer strategies together with production-side aspects such as organic and circularity principles for Switzerland. Methods Two strategies encompassed dietary changes: following a pescetarian diet and adhering to the national dietary guidelines. Two strategies employed alternative farming systems: increasing the share of organic production and, in addition, applying the circularity principle of avoiding feed-food competition by limiting livestock feed to low-opportunity-cost biomass. A fifth strategy reduced food waste. The sixth strategy increased the share of domestic produce. For all strategies, we assessed greenhouse gas emissions, land use, nitrogen surplus, social risks, diet quality, and diet costs. Results The strategies revealed trade-offs between impact categories, unless combined in a synergistic way. Whereas dietary changes towards more plant-based diets reduced environmental impacts (≤51%) and increased diet quality (≤57%), they increased social risks due to increased sourcing from contexts with potentially bad labor conditions (≤19%). Further, when the share of organic produce was increased, land use and dietary costs were increased (≤33% and ≤42%, respectively). The effect on land use could, however, be reversed when circularity principles were introduced in addition to the organic production standard, resulting in reductions for all environmental indicators (≤75%). Reducing food waste and increasing the share of domestic produce led to better sustainability performance as well, but at lower orders of magnitude. Conclusions Combining all proposed strategies could lead to substantial favorable changes on all impact categories assessed, but would require a thorough transformation of the current food system. However, the sum of individual consumers each following only 1 of the strategies proposed would make an important contribution towards improving the sustainability performance of the Swiss food system.

Kampung Bandeng Tambakrejo used to be the center of the middle-class milkfish industry, it is unfortunate that currently the area is experiencing a decline in quality both physically and activity. The production process of Bandeng village is very disturbed by inadequate physical and natural conditions, so that only a few business groups have survived to develop the milkfish business. The sustainability goal of the bandeng village is to conduct a research in the form of rejuvenation direction for Tambakrejo Bandeng village based on community business group preferences. The research method used in this study is qualitative research. Data collection is done by using interviews with resource persons, observation and documentation. The data in this study were obtained through interviews with determined resource persons or purposive sampling to bandeng group members as well as those who were active in the production of milkfish and shrimp processing and village elders who were aware of village growth and physical and non-physical sustainability of milkfish village rejuvenation directions based on Permen PU No. 02 / PRT / M / 2016 about improving the quality of slums and slums. The results of the study prove that there are physical identifications in the form of buildings, environmental roads, drainage, clean water, waste water, solid waste, and fire safety as well as non-physical aspects in Bandeng villages, namely production activities, trade services and social activities that support village activities. analyzed in the form of regional rejuvenation zones based on the preferences of community business groups. The direction of the rejuvenation of the milkfish village can be an approach to the community and the government in the form of rejuvenation from the community of the bandeng Tambakrejo village to refer to the government. The zoning forms are 5 zones that will be rejuvenated, namely there are settlement zones that accommodate the people affected by regional rejuvenation, trade zones and services found on secondary arterial roads, production and education zones in accordance with people's preferences located on the Tanggungrejo Raya road, and the Open Space Zone public in order to increase social development in increasing community social activities.

The article analyzes modern technologies for storing fruit and vegetable products and presents possible options for their modernization. From this perspective, the improvement of canning technology using non-traditional methods of processing plant raw materials is an urgent task, the solution of which will allow preserving fruit and vegetable products, reduce the amount of waste and reduce the impact of vegetable processing plants on natural water bodies. Fruits and vegetables are perishable products and require special storage conditions from the moment they are available for sale to purchase by consumers. Keeping them fresh for as long as possible is quite a challenge, as some plants are able to continue maturing even after packaging and produce ethylene, which initiates certain changes in texture and color, tissue degradation. The authors pay special attention to the aspects of innovative technologies in the creation of edible films and coatings, which are currently the only type of biodegradable polymer packaging that does not require individual collection and special conditions of disposal. This is their main difference from traditional biodegradable plastics, which were originally proposed as an alternative to synthetic polymeric materials, and all were convinced that their creation once and for all will solve the problem of waste polymer packaging, which today threatens to become a global environmental disaster. At the same time, they are always more expensive than conventional plastics, in many cases can not be subjected to joint recycling; being in the deep layers of the landfill, they emit greenhouse gas methane. In addition, the raw materials for biodegradable plastics are provided by the same soil and water resources on which food is grown today (except for a very small amount of plastics produced from agricultural waste), and therefore their raw material base will always be limited. Recommendations are formulated on the organization of effective conservation of plant raw materials, intended for further processing or sale in retail and wholesale trade networks.

Abstract The huge amount of biomass waste and palm oil mill effluent (POME) generated during oil extraction has prompted the need for a more sustainable framework in waste management. Since oil palm biomass waste is rich in lignocellulosic content, it can be potential to be converted into green energy such as bioelectricity via different pathway of processes such as the thermal conversion pathway and biochemical conversion pathway. This study proposes a mathematical approach to synthesise a sustainable supply chain of biomass to electricity by implementing the combined heat and power (CHP) system in palm oil mill. The optimum pathway of supply chain based on the technical, economical, and environmental aspects is generated. The purpose of this approach is to assists the industry players or owners to make decision in choosing the location of the pre-treatment technology, transportation method, location of power plant and configuration of CHP. A generic superstructure is first developed to achieve the objective. Then, a series of generic mathematical equations will then be formulated based on the pathways demonstrated in the generic superstructure. The mathematical equations involve general mass and energy balance, cost computation and carbon emission. The fuzzy optimisation concept will be adopted in this research to trade-off the conflicting objectives (maximize profit and minimize carbon footprint) in order to generate the optimum pathway. A palm oil-based bioelectricity supply chain case study in Selangor, Malaysia is solved to illustrate the presented approach. According to the optimised result in this case study, a total of 3,753.36 MW of bioelectricity can be generated per year. The result proved that the optimum pathway is feasible by comparing with the existing oil palm biomass-based power plant in Sarawak, where only 375 MW of electricity is generated by oil palm biomass. On the other hand, RM 7.25 million per year of net profit is estimated with a payback period of 2.81 years. Moreover, the CHP system is able to achieve 570 million kg CO2 per year.

Citarum River is one of them, this river is the longest and largest river in Tatar Pasundan, West Java Province, Indonesia . The Citarum River has been named the dirtiest and most polluted river in the world. This title was given by The World Bank in 2007. The low attitude of caring for the environment of the community around the Citarum watershed is one of the factors causing the contamination of the Citarum River. With a length of almost 300 kilometers, the water of this river is used by more than 30 million people for irrigation, washing, and even as drinking water. Starting from the people of Bandung, Karawang, Purwakarta, Bekasi to Jakarta. This means that the Citarum river is not only used by the people of West Java. The issuance of Presidential Regulation Number 15 of 2018 concerning Acceleration of Pollution Control and Damage to the Citarum Watershed (DAS) is a breath of fresh air for the future of the Citarum River. Furthermore, this Presidential Regulation encourages industry players to regulate and manage factory waste so that it is not dumped into the Citarum River. Thus environmental ethics becomes very important in observing social capital because social capital often includes dimensions that are difficult to measure. Social Capital as a theoretical framework should be adopted in various aspects of people's lives. The use of social capital in development, community empowerment and environmental management is an example of how a modality that is based on the utilization of social relations is applied. This paper uses qualitative research methods, to obtain the necessary data the author uses data collection techniques with literature studies obtained by reading and studying literature, documents, theories and regulations that have to do with research problems. This paper is expected to provide an overview of the concept of social capital in the community empowerment community in the Citarum River area.

Vietnam’s garment industry is facing many challenges, including domestic competition and the global market. The free trade agreement, which Vietnam signed, includes environmental barriers, sustainable development, and green development. The agreement further requires businesses to make efforts to improve not only product quality but also the production process. In cases when enterprises cause environmental pollution in the production process and do not apply solutions to reduce waste, save energy, and natural resources, there is a risk of no longer receiving orders or orders being rejected, especially orders from the world’s major branded garment companies. In this research, the authors propose a multicriteria decision-making model (MCDM) for optimizing the supplier evaluation and selection process for the garment industry using sustainability considerations. In the first stage of this research, all criteria affecting supplier selection are determined by a triple bottom line (TBL) model (economic, environmental, and social aspects) and literature reviews; in addition, the fuzzy analytic hierarchy process (FAHP) method was utilized to identify the weight of all criteria in the second stage. The technique for order preference by similarity to an ideal solution (TOPSIS) is a multicriteria decision analysis method, which is used for ranking potential suppliers in the final stage. As a result, decision-making unit 10 (DMU/10) is found to be the best supplier for the garment industry. The contribution of this research includes modeling the supplier selection decision problem based on the TBL concept. The proposed model also addresses different complex problems in supplier selection, is a flexible design model for considering the evaluation criteria, and is applicable to supplier selection in other industries.

Due to the analysis of the structure of land use in the Kachava river basin, significant deviations from scientifically sound norms were revealed (anthropogenically transformed territories predominate (72.9%), including arable land (62.2%). Excessively high and ecologically dangerous plowing was revealed: in many cases the lands were plowed up to the riverbed, which can be observed in all villages, due to which the eco-corridors, which are an important part of the ecological network, are broken in the basin. The coefficient of anthropogenic transformation of geosystems in the Kachava river basin (according to the method of P.G. Shishchenko) is calculated, which is equal to 7.2 and indicates a high level of transformation of geosystems in the study area. A positive balance of greenhouse gases over the river basin has been established due to the large share of arable land (1,079 tons of CO2 per year) and due to the operation of livestock complexes (as a result of internal fermentation and manure treatment) - about 300 tons. The impact on the environment of industrial facilities (furniture company (SAMM) in the village of Romanivka, brick factory LLC "Western Trade Organization" in the village of Maly Khodachkiv, Galushchynets quarry, area 45.75 ha, in which limestone is mined, with a capacity of 700 thousand tons per year). The following main environmental problems have been identified: air pollution due to improper disposal of waste in the furniture industry, mining. The level of traffic load in all settlements of the Kachava river basin is studied. The recreational load and recreational capacity of the territory are investigated. Recreation is based on ponds, which are used for fishing, swimming or just relaxing in nature. The ecological condition of the Kachava, Romanivsky, Kolodiyivsky and Malokhodachkivsky ponds was analyzed according to physical and hydrobiological indicators. It was found that they are satisfactory for all ponds, except Malohodachkivsky, which can be used for recreational purposes. Despite the fact that the recreational load does not exceed the recreational capacity of the territory, there are environmental problems such as neglect of the coast, pollution by solid waste. The ecosystem of the Kachava, Romanivsky, Kolodiyivsky and Malokhodachkivsky ponds are analyzed according to physical and hydrobiological indicators. Measures to optimize land use in the Kachava River basin are proposed: it is proposed to reduce arable land by an average of 97.65 hectares (5.7%) due to mostly afforestation; creation of а new protected object (landscape reserve near the village of Maly Khodachkiv). The submitted proposal will increase the share of land under natural eco-stabilization lands from 27.1 to 33% of the total area of the river basin and achieve the formation of a continuous eco-corridor, which will connect nature reserves. Key words: river, pond, river basin, ecological situation, nature resource management, anthropogenic impact, anthropogenic transformation, optimization.

Abstract Sustainable social entrepreneurship (SSE) is a kind of entrepreneurship that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability, efficiency and values of future generations to meet their own needs. SSE leads to sustainable development. Social entrepreneurs were developed through well-conceived and well directed training programmes around thrust areas, thus advancing the frontiers of theories and practice SSE. The concept of SSE challenges that fosters long-term protection of the society, environment and its habitants as the technological or engineering developments are guided by efficiency, productivity, profitability, health and environmental impacts, resource and energy conservation, waste management, and social impacts such as public convenience, unemployment and crime. The specific objectives of this research were: (i) To formulate and appraise forty-three number of detailed project reports (DPRs) of Diploma in Entrepreneurship and Business Management (DEBM ) course extension learners in eleven batches attached with the DEBM Counsellor and Co- ordinator of Entrepreneurship Development Institute of India -Ahmedabad (EDI),India as well author of this research during the research year (RY) 2007-2014 , (ii) To conduct social impact assessment and environmental health impact assessment (EHIA) for projects , (iii) To design and develop a comprehensive and green economic system modelling and (iv) To promote sustainable socio- economic policies of SIA process for an efficient socio- economic transformation development based on social entrepreneurial research conducted in South India . The design of the study is cross sectional. SIA is defined as the systematic identification and evaluation of the potential social impacts of proposed projects, plans, programs, policies or legislative actions relative to the socio- economic components of the society and total environment. Social factor has been considered in project planning and decision-making process in order to arrive at action which should be socio-economically compatible. Environmental health impact assessment process has been conducted in order to mitigate the environmental health impacts. Socio-economic environment is a man-made environment related to a set of considerations such as demographical study including population trends and population distribution , population interaction and interrelation to the social problem and solution, economic indicators of human welfare services, educational systems, transportation systems, environmental protective infrastructural facilities such as water supply system, waste water treatment system, solid and hazardous waste management, resource conservation and recovery process, environmental public health services and medical facilities. Social impact assessment process should be enacted as social policy act in order to encourage the considerations of human society in project planning and decision making process . Extension learners were equipped with the knowledge, skills and motivation to set up their sustainable social enterprises and function dynamically and manage successfully. DPRs proposed by learners have been investigated as per guidelines provided by EDI. Entrepreneurial business planning assessment regimes (EBPARs) have been accomplished for their credibility and communicability. DEBM projects were screened for the seven fatal flaws viz., (i) Scientific feasibility, (ii) technical feasibility, (iii) economic feasibility, (iv) marketing feasibility, (v) environmental feasibility, (vi) social feasibility and (vii) fundamental legality. Social entrepreneur of an entrepreneurial team should need skills in ethics, accounting, law, finance, team creation and marketing aspects in order to avoid failures in the process. The result analysis of forty- three learners has been discussed. Based on comprehensive socio-economic analysis, a green socio-economic system model has been presented. A famous project case of a DPR-I has been presented on unsafe chromium pollution and contamination of about 18 000 to 30 000 mg/kg from Indian cotton roller ginneries and development of green design roller gin rollers for cotton gins duly investigated in a ginning factory. Such low-carbon and energy-efficient agricultural technologies of agricultural hi-tech industries have made important contributions to mitigating the impacts of economic growth on global warming. Hitherto state-of-the- art literatures, market effects have been considered. It is reported that non-market impacts such as social and environmental impact assessment should be considered for proposed projects, plans, programs, policies and legislative action. It is concluded that this action-based and extension learning field study on SSE shall promote sustainable socio-economic policies for sustainable development and poverty alleviation. Keywords: action, efficient, entrepreneurship, environmental impact assessment process, project, social impact assessment (SIA) process, transformation.

<div><p><em>Surakarta is a city that has the potential of the river. But in the process, these rivers suffered environmental degradation as a function instead of the banks into slums and squatter, and functions of rivers that serve as places of waste disposal. Government’s city of Surakarta has done various setup area of the river. One of the targeted structuring Pepe-River is often known by the name Kali Pepe. Kali Pepe is the river which has the most strategic location because it divides the centre of city and the river has a past history of Surakarta. Kali Pepe is the witness of history where culture and trade activities in the rapidly growing city of Surakarta in the past with the ecological function and physical function as transportation trade.Setuping Kali Pepe, according to the Mayor of Surakarta, is directed to serve as recreation/tourism area. Since the Surakarta Mayor initiated the year 2015 that Kali Pepe as a tourist area. The initiated moves the government and society in order to more actively participate in developing the area into a tourist area. This research would like to know how the readiness level of the Kali Pepe area to be developed as a tourist area-based streams. The components of preparedness were seen from aspect of attractions or natural tourist attraction, artificial attractions, acessesiblity, institutional, infrastructure supporting tourism, and the behavior of the flooding of the river. This research is quantitative research in methods of scoring analysis. The result of this research has shown that Kali Pepe less readiness to be developed as a tourist area-based stream. Aspects of accessibility and infrastructure supporting tourism were an aspect which has a readiness. But for this aspect of the attraction, institutional and river flooding behavior is still in the stage of less readiness.</em></p><p> </p><p><strong><em>Keywords:</em></strong><em> readiness, tourist areas, river tours</em></p></div>

The high increases in freight transportation costs worldwide have generated a container crisis, impacting the global supply chains due to fast-increasing product prices. This situation could raise the global international inflation rate, provoking the devaluation of different currencies against the dollar. The increased cost of maritime transport will affect some products, impacting their added value. For instance, some furniture, textile, handcraft, artisanal candles, clothing, and leather products could lose their competitive advantage for their emerging producer economies. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, maritime freight rates are expected to remain high for at least one year, affecting economic trade and demand worldwide and causing a shortage of several products. Such a situation is a critical effect of the lockdowns that slowed down industrial activity. The vertiginous increase in freight transportation rates is due to a multiplicity of factors, the vast majority of them having to do with the pandemic, and it is not yet clear how long this crisis could last. This ongoing crisis is known as the "container crisis" and entails an unusual shortage of available space to transport products from Asia to the rest of the world. Besides the lack of containers and high shipping costs, there have been port jams and temporary shutdowns in some terminals due to strict measures to control the new covid-19 strains. We hope that the massive vaccine rollout worldwide could improve the maritime transportation flow, which moves 99% of the total load (in tons) worldwide. The Colombian industry has suffered a shortage of raw materials, over-production costs, and long delays in lead times, forcing some small- and medium-sized companies to shut down due to inputs being unavailable for their average production. Editorial Note The Journal Cuadernos de Administración needs to thank Prof. Carlos Hernan Gonzales for his invaluable years' long work as an editor that allowed the Journal significant achievements. Among the most significant achievements is the Journal being categorized in the Emerging Sources Citation Index (ESCI). We hope that Prof. Carlos Hernan will continue supporting the Journal through his participation in the editorial board team. The Journal brings new, significant changes seeking to increase its visibility and ranking: Calls for papers for each volume will be relinquished, and a permanent call for papers will be in place. The Journal will have a "Forthcoming Papers" section, papers that will have been peer-reviewed and accepted for publication but are not yet published because final changes are pending and still need to be assigned a volume or issue. The order they are published does not indicate the order of their final assignment to a volume. These papers can be cited as forthcoming papers. According to the following link, papers must meet a minimum level of English above the 75th percentile https://secure.aje.com/en/researcher/grammar-check. This 71st issue of the Journal Cuadernos de Administración corresponds to the September-December 2021 period. The eight papers published in issue 71 come from the previous call, whose authors submitted their manuscripts to our editorial process from several countries and different regions of Colombia. The Journal thanks our reviewers, who supported us through their experience and expertise in assessing each paper. The eight research papers published attest to the high quality of several aspects in business, marketing, finance, and social responsibility, among other areas. The first paper, called "Visual neuromarketing strategies in two shopping malls in the city of Cúcuta, Colombia," seeks to describe the visual neuromarketing practices present in two shopping malls in the city of Cúcuta (Colombia). A quantitative study with a descriptive, non-experimental, cross-sectional design using an observation guide and a questionnaire is implemented. The second paper, called "Case Analysis: Financial viability for the commercialization of physicochemical testing services at the Antioquia Liquor and Alcohol Factory (ALAF)," studies market profitability for physicochemical testing of alcoholic beverages according to the transformation in its legal nature. The proposed approach includes the costing of tests by using accounting and the analytical procedures used by the laboratory. The paper "A framework explaining the entrepreneurial intentions of engineering students in public universities" seeks to explain the Entrepreneurial Intent (EI) of university students enrolled in engineering programs at the public university of the state of Guanajuato (Mexico). The proposed approach combines the Theory of Planned Behavior, formal and informal institutional factors, and two individual traits. The fourth paper, "Corporate Governance and Organizational Social Responsibility: discussion about the Multilatinas case," explores the relationship between Corporate Governance and Corporate Social Responsibility. This relationship is analyzed considering the interest of the majority-owners-block-family and CEO about the firm outlays for the Organizational Social Responsibility. The paper "Announcements Effect of Corporate Bond Issuance on Stock Returns: Evidence from Chile" measures the effect of announcing a corporate bond issuance on stock returns for companies listed on the Santiago de Chile Stock Exchange (BCS). An event study measures the effect of announcing a corporate bond issuance on stock return, and this methodology calculates abnormal returns for the days of the event. In the work "Internationalization and open innovation in SMEs from the horticultural sector in Colombia," the authors empirically assess the relationship between open innovation, exploration, and exploitation activities in the context of internationalization of horticultural-sector SMEs' from Northern Valle del Cauca, Colombia. The study is based on a sample of 102 SMEs and the determination of a partial least squares structural equation model (PLS-SEM) to test a series of research hypotheses. The last research paper, "Sustainable segmentation for ecological personal hygiene products in the hard discount format," considers the issue of sustainable consumption of personal hygiene products in countries like Colombia. A quantitative approach with a descriptive correlational scope was employed to analyze the relationship between consumers' environmental practices and their intention of purchasing personal hygiene products. Finally, the last paper, a reflection paper called "Bank financing management with a value chain approach in Cuba," tackles the value chain concepts and the value chain approach from productive articulation. The methodology used in this work includes the analysis, synthesis, and deduction of the theoretical-methodological aspects of bank financing management. The Universidad del Valle's Faculty of Administration's 71st issue of Cuadernos de Administración consolidates us as a prestigious Journal for disseminating scientific knowledge in several areas. The Journal wishes to thank the authors of each of these eight papers and the peer reviewers who supported our editorial process, always bearing in mind that each article's content is its authors' responsibility.

The article presents an overview of current aspects of public procurement audit. It is proved that today the scientists have mostly practical recommendations for such an audit and monitoring. It is established that there are no significant, thorough theoretical and methodological developments of scientists on the audit of public procurement in a circular economy, sustainable development. It is proved that special attention at the current stage of formation of the audit of public procurement should be paid to such an area as monitoring their "sustainability". The article identifies economic, environmental and social criteria in the audit of public procurement. Economic factors affect the state of the markets on which trade depends now and in the future. Environmental factors affect the natural systems on which life depends now and in the future. Social factors affect the social systems on which the community depends now and in the future. Among the economic criteria are: fair agreements, innovative research, investment, open competition, open information, use of different suppliers, use of HUB zones, use of local suppliers, conflicts of interest, zoning, dumping, exclusive agreement, seller's conspiracy, buyer's conspiracy, abuse patent, pricing, product typing, refusal of the agreement, corruption (bribery, extortion). Among the ecological criteria are the following: biodiversity conservation, climate adaptation, resource optimization, soil fertility concern, acidification, desertification, eutrophication (waterlogging), fresh water pollution, greenhouse gas emissions, environmental depletion, human health impact, land use change, marine pollution, pollution layer, radiation pollution, depletion of resources, smog, waste. To the social criteria it was included: anti-discrimination, community involvement, equal opportunities, employee involvement, equal pay, fair agreement, freedom of association, grievance and redress processes, human rights, indigenous rights, labour protection and safety, the right to bargain collectively, education and training, workers' rights, child labour, forced labour, trafficking in human beings, choice of suppliers. It is substantiated that among the criteria of sustainability (economic, environmental and social) the red ribbon is the assessment of possible abuses, corruption, bribery, dishonesty of the administration. So, also it has been investigated the relationship between administrative dishonesty and leadership style and reporting distortions.

It is well acknowledged that, China is a country with copious manufacturing industries, and Chinese industrial products spread all over the world. Research into the theory and practice of evaluating manufacturing factories in China is of highly significant. However, the traditional method of evaluating factories tends to focus on individual aspects such as efficiency, energy conservation, and environmental protections. There have been relatively few reports covering comprehensive evaluation methods for a systematic green factory. Based on an analysis of the current situation in various countries and regions, the concept and scope of the China Green Factory (CGF) have been defined. The characteristics of a CGF include the intensification of land, the decontamination of raw materials, clean production, waste administration, and the reduction of carbon and energy. The objectives of this paper are to highlight the current policy and research on the CGFs, quantify the positive effects of CGFs, and make some suggestions for future development.

This paper aims to design a supply chain network for producing double glazed glass from the recycling of waste glass. All three pillars of sustainability are taken into consideration. The economic objective tries to maximize total profits. The environmental objective considers the energy consumption, the generated waste, the greenhouse gas emission, the water consumption, and the fuel consumption of vehicles. The social objective addresses created job opportunities, the worker safety, the regional development, the worker benefit, and training hours. To solve the model, a two-stage framework based on the group best-worst method and an interactive fuzzy programming approach is developed. The proposed model is validated through a real case study based on waste glass management in the city of Shiraz. It is revealed that when sustainable development goals are approached, a great degree of improvement will be attained in environmental and social aspects without a significant decrease in the economic sustainability. The results also demonstrate that the locations of glass recycling centres are different under economic, environmental, and social pillars, and the proposed model yields an optimal system configuration with a proper satisfaction degree of all objectives. Moreover, applying the proposed solution procedure enables system designers to obtain the most desirable trade-off between different aspects of sustainability.

Given the inability of the industrial sector in general and the textile sector in particular to support the requirements of adopting secondary consumption standards. And that this sector does not take into account the waste resulting from the production process and its costs. As well as not defining, measuring and revealing the environmental aspects in light of the accounting system currently applied, as the research aims to develop a model that fits with the environmental requirements of the Iraqi industry in light of the requirements of nanoscale consumption standards C115-9 (CN0501). Through which the environmental aspects and their costs are identified, measured and disclosed and disclosed in the financial statements. The research was based on the hypothesis that the disclosure of environmental costs can be determined and measured according to nanoscale consumption standards. And in line with the environmental Iraqi industry. The research reached the possibility of developing a model in which environmental costs can be determined and deviations in these costs can be determined based on the adoption of this model. The research recommended the necessity of adopting international standards and setting in a manner that is appropriate with the local environment.

Abstract Background Transitioning towards sustainable food systems for the health of the population and planet will require governments and institutions to develop effective governance to support the adoption of sustainable food practices. The aim of the paper is to describe current governance within Australian and New Zealand universities designed to support sustainable food systems. Methods A systematic search of governance documents to support sustainable food systems within Australian and New Zealand universities was conducted. Data were obtained from 1) targeted websites 2) internet search engines and 3) expert consultations. Inclusion criteria consisted of university governance documents including by-laws, policies, guidelines, frameworks, and procedures that support sustainable food systems. Results Twenty-nine governance documents across nineteen Australian and New Zealand universities were included for synthesis, including waste management policies (n = 3), fair-trade/procurement policies (n = 6), catering and or event guidelines (n = 7) and catering policies (n = 2), and environmental management plans (n = 11). The main strategies adopted by universities were sustainable waste management and prevention (e.g. reducing landfill, reducing wasted food, (27%)), ethical procurement practices (i.e. fair-trade (27%)) and environmentally sustainable food consumption (e.g. local, seasonal, organic, vegetarian food supply (14.5%)). Only 12.5% of universities addressed all three of the main strategies identified. Conclusions This study indicates that while sustainable food systems are considered in some university governance documents, efforts are predominantly focused on aspects such as waste management or procurement of fair-trade items which as stand-alone practices are likely to have minimal impact. This review highlights the scope of universities to provide strong leadership in promoting and supporting sustainable food systems through holistic institutional policies and governance mechanisms.

Background : AFTA (ASEAN Free Trade Area) is a form of free trade which requires Indonesia to be excellentin terms of products that promote not only quality products but also processes, ensuring quality and standards. Indonesian batik has been recognized by UNESCO as an in tangible cultural Indonesian nation, which mustbeone of exellent products that will participate in the AFTA. Branding the world city of batik for Pekalongan, a positive consequence very proud. But on the other side of the batik processis generally still dependent on raw materials hazardous material negative impact on workers and the environment. The purpose of this study rests on the demands of AFTA (ASEAN Free Trade Area) in 2015 is to improve the quality and the quality and the protectionof domestic products (batik) to be able to compete with foreign products brought marketable products, wherethe production process considering various aspects of health and safety works. Technical outputis generated in the form of data on workers health problems batik, and identification of wastes in this production of Pekalongan City in 2014 through the study and measurement of epidemiology and Environmental Health. Such data as one of the keyst in batik branding strategy formulation protection in the form of a draft SOP and healthy environment for the workers to wards the implementation SMK3 the batik industry with zero accident and zero cases. Results. Batik worker health problems in the form of 67.5% lungcapacity disorders; 33.8% decrease invisual function; dermatitis extremities 30%. Distribution of workers with impaired lung capacity, decreased visual function, and dermatitis extremities were observed at the stage of wax sticking, respectively 64.8%; 48.1%; and 66.7%. While the profile of batik waste outlet or point before entry into free waters showed temperature (30 o C), pH(9), and COD (18.7 ppm) waste is under the maximum level (safe), where as the levels of BOD(162 ,2ppm) as of yet safe because it is still above the maximum levels of environmental quality standards. Conclusion :Some of the health problems in batik workers found that lung capacity disorders, visual impairment, and dermatitis extremities. While batik waste profile shows temperature, pH, TSS, and COD are under environmental quality standards, but still above the levels of BOD quality standards. Keyword: Batik, health problems, waste

Wearing clothing from the past is all the rage now. Different styles and aesthetics of vintage and historical clothing, original or appropriated, are popular with fashion wearers and home sewers. Social media is rich with images of anachronistic clothing and the major pattern companies have a large range of historical sewing patterns available. Butterick McCall, for example, have a Making History range of patterns for sewers of clothing from a range of historical periods up to the 1950s. The 1950s styled fashion is particularly popular with pattern producers. Yet little research exists that explains why anachronistic clothing is all the rage. Drawing on 28 interviews conducted by the author with women who wear/make 1950s styles clothing and a survey of 229 people who wear/make historical clothing, this article outlines four key reasons that help explain the popularity of wearing/making anachronistic clothing: It argues that there exists rage against four ‘fast fashion’ practices: environmental disregard, labour breaches, poor quality, and poor fit. Ethical consumption practices such as home sewing quality clothes that fit, seeks to ameliorate this rage. That much of what is being made is anachronistic speaks to past sewing techniques that were ethical and produced quality fitting garments rather than fashion today that doesn’t fit, is of poor quality, and it unethical in its production. Fig. 1: Craftivist Collective Rage: Protesting Fast FashionRage against Fast Fashion Rage against fast fashion is not new. Controversies over Disney and Nike’s use of child labour in the 1990s, the anti-fur campaigns of the 1980s, the widespread condemnation of factory conditions in Bangladesh in the wake of the 2016 Rana Plaza collapse and Tess Holiday’s Eff Your Beauty Standards campaign, are evidence of this. Fast fashion is “cheap, trendy clothing, that samples ideas from the catwalk or celebrity culture and turns them into garments … at breakneck speed” (Rauturier). It is produced cheaply in short turnarounds, manufactured offshore by slave labour, with the industry hiding these exploitative practices behind, and in, complex supply chains. The clothing is made from poor quality material, meaning it doesn’t last, and the material is not environmentally sustainable. Because of this fast fashion is generally not recycled and ends up as waste in landfills. This for Rauturier is what fast fashion is: “cheap, low quality materials, where clothes degrade after just a few wears and get thrown away”. The fast fashion industry engages in two discrete forms of obsolescence; planned and perceived. Planned obsolescence is where clothes are designed to have a short life-span, thus coercing the consumer into buying a replacement item sooner than intended. Claims that clothes now last only a few washes before falling apart are common in the media (Dunbar). This is due to conscious manufacturing techniques that reduce the lifespan of the clothes including using mixed fibres, poor-quality interfacing, and using polyester threads, to name a few. Perceived obsolescence is where the consumer believes an otherwise functioning item of clothing to no longer to be valued. This is borne out in the idea that an item is deemed to be “in vogue” or “in fashion” and its value to the consumer is thus embedded in that quality. Once it falls out of fashion is deemed worthless. Laver’s “fashion cycle” elucidated this idea over eighty years ago. Since the 1980s the fashion industry has sped up, moving from the traditional twice annual fashion seasons to the fast fashion system of constantly manufacturing new styles, sometimes weekly. The technologies that have allowed the rapid manufacturing of fast fashion mean that the clothes are cheaper and more readily available. The average price of clothing has dropped accordingly. An item that cost US$100 in 1993 only cost US$59.10 in 2013, a drop of 41 per cent (Perry, Chart). The average person in 2014 bought 60 per cent more clothing that they did in 2000. Fast fashion is generally unsaleable in the second-hand market, due to its volume and poor design and manufacture. Green notes that many charity clothing stores bin a large percentage of the fast fashion items they receive. Environmental Rage Consumers are increasingly expressing rage about the environmental impact of fast fashion. The production of different textiles places different stresses on the environment. Cotton, for example, accounts for one third of the fibres found in all textiles, yet it requires high levels of water. A single cotton shirt needs 2,700 litres of water alone, the equivalent to “what one person drinks in two-and-a-half years” (Drew & Yehounme). Synthetics don’t represent an environmentally friendly alternative. While they may need less water, they are more carbon-intensive and polyester has twice the carbon footprint of cotton (Drew & Yehounme). Criticisms of fast fashion also include “water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing levels of textile waste”. Textile dyeing is the “second largest polluter of clean water globally.” The inclusion of chemical in the manufacturing of textiles is “disruptive to hormones and carcinogenic” (Perry, Cost). Naomi Klein’s exposure of the past problems of fast fashion, and revelations such as these, inform why consumers are enraged by the fast fashion system. The State of Fashion 2019 Report found many of the issues Klein interrogated remain of concern to consumers. Consumers continue to feel enraged at the industry’s disregard for the environment (Shaw et al.) any many are seeking alternative sources of sustainable fashion. For some consumers, the ethical dilemmas are overcome by purchasing second-hand or recycled clothing, or participate in Clothing Exchanges. Another alternative to ameliorating the rage is to stop buying new clothes and to make and wear their own clothes. A recent article in The Guardian, “’Don’t Feed the Monster!’ The People Who Have Stopped Buying New Clothes” highlights the “growing movement” of people seeking to make a “personal change” in response to the ethical dilemmas fast fashion poses to the environment. While political groups like Fashion of Tomorrow argue for collective legislative changes to ensure environmental sustainability in the industry, consumers are also finding their own individual ways of ameliorating their rage against fast fashion. Over recent decades Australians have consistently shown concern over environmental issues. A 2016 national survey found that 63 per cent of Australians considered themselves to be environmentalists and this is echoed in the ABC’s War on Waste programme which examined attitudes to and effects of clothing waste in Australia. In my interviews with women wearing 1950s style clothing, almost 65 per cent indicated a distinct dissatisfaction with mainstream fashion and frustration particularly with pernicious ‘fast fashion’. One participant offered, “seeing the War on Waste and all the fast fashion … I really like if I can get it second hand … you know I feel like I am helping a little bit” [Gabrielle]. Traid, a network of UK charity clothes shops diverts 3 000 tonnes of clothes from landfill to the second-hand market annually, reported for 2017-18 a 30 per cent increase in its second-hand clothes sales (Coccoza). The Internet has helped expand the second-hand clothing market. Two participants offered these insights: “I am completely addicted to the Review Buy Swap and Sell Page” [Anna] and “Instagram is huge for girls like us to communicate and get ideas” [Ashleigh]. Slave Rage The history of fashion is replete with examples of exploitation of workers. From the seamstresses of France in the eighteenth century who had to turn to prostitution to supplement their meagre wages (Jones 16) to the twenty-first century sweatshop workers earning less than a living wage in developing nations, poor work conditions have plagued the industry. For Karl Marx fashion represented a contradiction within capitalism where labour was exploited to create a mass-produced item. He lambasted the fashion industry and its “murderous caprices”, and despite his dream that the invention of the sewing machine would alleviate the stress placed on garment workers, technology has only served to intensify its demands on its poor workers (Sullivan 36-37). The 2013 Rena Plaza factory disaster shows just how far some sections of the industry are willing to go in their race to the bottom.In the absence of enforceable, global fair-trade initiatives, it is hard for consumers to purchase goods that reflect their ethos (Shaw et al. 428). While there is much more focus on better labour practices in the fashion industry, as the Baptist World Aid Australia’s annual Ethical Fashion Report shows, consumers are still critical of the industry and its labour practices.A significant number of participants in my research indicated that they actively sought to purchase products that were produced free from worker exploitation. For some participants, the purchasing of second-hand clothing allowed them to circumnavigate the fast fashion system. For others, mid-century reproduction fashion was sourced from markets with strong labour laws and “ethically made” without the use of sweat shop labour” [Emma]. Alternatively, another participant rejected buying new vintage fashion and instead purchased originally made fashion, in this case clothing made 50 to 60 years ago. This was one was of ensuring “some poor … person has [not] had to work really hard for very little money … [while the] shop is gaining all the profits” [Melissa]. Quality Rage Planned obsolescence in fashion has existed at least since the 1940s when Dupont ensured their nylon stockings were thin enough to ladder to ensure repeat custom (Meynen). Since then manufacturers have deliberately used poor techniques and poor material – blended fabrics, unfinished seams, unfixed dyes, for example – to ensure that clothes fail quickly. A 2015 UK Barnardo’s survey found clothes were worn an average of just seven times, which is not surprising given that clothes can last as little as two washes before being worn out (Dunbar). Extreme planned obsolescence in concert with perceived obsolescence can lead to clothes being discarded before their short lifespan had expired. The War on Waste interviewed young women who wore clothes sometimes only once before discarding them.Not all women are concerned with keeping up to date with fashion, instead wanting to create their own identify though clothes and are therefore looking for durability in their clothes. Many of the women interviewed for this research were aware of the declining quality of clothes, often referring to those made before the fast fashion era as evidence of quality clothing. For many in this study, manufacturing of classically styled clothing was of higher concern than mimicking the latest fashion trend. Some indicated their “disgust” at the poor quality of fast fashion [Gabrielle]. Others has specific outrage at the cost of poorly made fast fashion: “I don’t like spending a lot of money on clothing that I know may not necessarily be well made” [Skye] and “I got sick of dresses just being see through … you know, seeing my bras under things” [Becky]. For another: “I don’t like the whole mass-produced thing. I don’t think that they are particularly well made … Sometimes they are made with a tiny waist but big boobs, there’s no seams on them, they’re just overlocked together …” [Vicky]. For other participants in this research fast fashion produced items were considered inferior to original items. One put it is this way: “[On using vintage wares] If something broke, you fixed it. You didn’t throw it away and go down to [the shop] and buy a new one ... You look at stuff from these days … you could buy a handbag today and you are like “is this going to be here in two years? Or is it going to fall apart in my hands?” … there’s that strength and durability that I do like” [Ashleigh]. For another, “vintage reproduction stuff is so well made, it’s not like fast fashion, like Vivien of Holloway and Pin Up Girl Clothing, their pieces last forever, they don’t fall apart after five washes like fast fashion” [Emma]. The following encapsulates the rage felt in response to fast fashion. I think a lot of people are wearing true vintage clothing more often as a kind of backlash to the whole fast fashion scene … you could walk into any shop and you could see a lot of clothing that is very, very cheap, but it’s also very cheaply made. You are going to wear it and it’s going to fall apart in six months and that is not something that I want to invest in. [Melissa]Fit RageFit is a multi-faceted issue that affects consumers in several ways: body size; body shape; and height. Body size refers to the actual physical size of the body, whether one is underweight, slim, average, muscular or fat. Fast fashion body size labelling reflects what the industry considers to be of ‘normal sizes’, ranging from a size 8 through to a size 16 (Hackett & Rall). Body shape is a separate, if not entirely discrete issue. Women differ widely in the ratios between their hips, bust and waist. Body shape distribution varies widely within populations, for example, the ‘Size USA’ study identified 11 different female body shapes with wide variations between populations (Lee et al.). Even this doesn’t consider bodies with physical disabilities. Clothing is designed to fit women of ‘average’ height, thus bodies that are taller or shorter are often excluded from fast fashion (Valtonen). Even though Australian sizing practices are based on erroneous historical data (Hackett and Rall; Kennedy), the fast fashion system continues to manufacture for average body shapes and average body heights, to the exclusion of others. Discrimination through clothing sizes represents one way in which social norms are reinforced. Garments for larger women are generally regarded as less fashionable (Peters 48). Enraged consumers label some of the offerings ‘fat sacks’, ‘tents’ and ‘camouflage wear’ (Colls 591-592). Further, plus size is often more expensive and having been ‘sized up’ from smaller sizes, the result is poor fit. Larger body’s therefore have less autonomy in fashioning their identity (Peters 45). Size restrictions can lead to consumers having to choose between going without a desired item or wearing a size too small for them as no larger alternative is available (Laitala et al. 33-34).The ideology behind the thin aesthetic is that it is framed as aspirational (Barry) and thus consumers are motivated to purchase clothes based upon a desire to fit in with this beauty ideal. This is a false dichotomy (Halliwell and Dittmar 105; Bian and Wang). For participants in this research rage at fashion fashions persistance in producing for ‘average’ sized women was clearly evident. For a plus-size participant: “I don’t suit modern stuff. I’m a bigger girl and that’s not what style is these days. And so, I find it just doesn’t work for me” [Ashleigh]. For non-plus participants, sizing rage was also evident: I’m just like a praying mantis, a long string bean. I’m slim, tall … I do have the body shape … that fast fashion catered for, and I can still dress in fast fashion, but I think the idea that so many women feel excluded by that kind of fashion, I just want to distance myself from it. So, so many women have struggles in the change rooms in shopping centres because things don’t fit them nicely. [Emma] For this participant reproduction fashion wasn’t vanity sized. That is, a dress from the 1950s had the body measurements on the label rather than a number reflecting an arbitrary and erroneous sizing system. Some noted their disregard for standardised sizing systems used exclusively for fast fashion: “I have very non-standard measurements … I don’t buy dresses for that reason … My bust and my waist and my hips don’t fit a standard. You know I can’t go “ooh that’s a 12, that’s an 18”. You know, I don’t believe in standard sizing basically” [Skye]. Variations of sizing by brands adds to the frustration of fashion consumers: “if someone says 'I’m a size 16' that means absolutely nothing. If you go between brands … [shop A] XXL to a [shop B] to a [shop C] XXL to a [shop D] XXL, you know … they’re not the same. They won’t fit the same, they don’t have the same fit” [Skye]. These women recognise that their body shape, size and/or height is not catered for by fast fashion. This frees them to look for alternatives beyond the product offerings of the mainstream fashion industry. Although the rage against aspects of fast fashion discussed here – environmental, labour, quality and fit – is not seeing people in the streets protesting, people are actively choosing to find alternatives to the problem of sourcing clothes that fit their ethos. ReferencesABC Television. "Coffee Cups and Fast Fashion." War on Waste. 30 May 2017. Barnardo's. 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